CAUTION – When leaving Carrión de los Condes it is extremely important to stock up on water. 17km separate it from Calzadilla de la Cueza, with little protection from the sun or wind. In recent years, a roadside kiosk ( 10.1 KM has sprung up at the halfway point, but there are no guarantees that it will be open. WP.
“Life’s a road full of ups and downs, but it’s the journey that makes the difference.” Every step we take, every decision we make, every challenge we face, all shapes us and makes us who we are. Life is an adventure and it takes courage to embark on it and keep going even when it gets tough. Life is precious and deserves to be lived with passion and determination. “
by Hape Kerkeling in “I’ll be gone”. Are you dreaming of the next Camino?
Can you recall the full quotation at the bottom of the quilt?
On the Camino as it passes through Carrión are shops,pharmacies, a Dia supermarket and a reputedly excellent outdoor store if you need to buy or replace anything. Cafe bar Espana on the main road opens for breakfast from 07.00. ( From a recently discovered online guide – “CaminoGuide.net”)
If the weather promises to be warm it might be advisable to get an early start as JB States : “ We pass through a flat..landscape with little or no shade. 70% is on gravel paths, most of which overlay the old paved Roman road,Via Aquitana that connected with Astorga. Anticipate no facilities between Carrión and Calzadilla (17.2 KM )….ensure your water flasks are full and have breakfast before you leave or bring something to eat with you.”
After a KM or so we are advised to ignore the alternative route,Antiguo Camino Frances along the N-120. We should head s/o along a quiet country road,passing the ruins of the once illustrious Franciscan Abbey, Abadia Santa Maria de Benvivere, known for its “good living” bene Vivere. JB
Still intact after 2000 years – save for a new gravel covering.Apparently 100 000 tons of rock were needed just for the substrata to raise the surface above the winter flood levels,all transported from elsewhere.
We come next to Fuente del Hospitalejo “ the Fuente no longer offers hospitality but this is provided shortly afterwards at Area des Descanso- rest area.
Operates Summer time only .
MIRAGES – “ the straight stretch of 17 Km running from Carrión de Los Condes to Calzadilla de la Cueza sometimes holds a surprise in store. Because of the heat and the refraction of light rays,objects ahead may seem to be floating on a liquid surface. This is an optical phenomenon which lasts only a few seconds.” SR
It’ll be interesting to swap our mirages at the end of the day!
Calzadilla de la Cueza BB Recommends refuelling at the village bar – I don’t think we’ll need telling – it’s behind the albergue. A very popular bar and restaurant
A population of 60 souls,apparently.
On leaving Calzadilla we have again two choices for the last steps to Ledigos. Alongside the N.120 or turning left for a quiet woodland path. Note, there are not many waymarks, but JB gives a good description, P.160. After an ascent we descend into Ledigos our base and Albergue la Morena. “ A woman nicknamed La Morena ( the brunette) founded this private albergue; today her granddaughter and family carry on her work ethic…exceptional for its hospitality. They serve a great home cooked menu del Peregrino in the restaurant and bar.” BB
This Albergue is highly recommended. Other than the church, we should find some restful distraction here.The church contains images of St James…if open. DISTRACTIONS….tu muy buena Salud!
JUST A REMINDER ABOUT THE USEFUL REFERENCES IN THE BLOGWP – A Wise Pilgrim Guide to the Camino de Santiago from St Jean Pie SR – Sergi Ramis – Camino de Santiago ,The Ancient Way of Saint James…. BB – Moon – CAMINO DE SANTIAGO by Beebe Bahrami. JB – A PILGRIM’s GUIDE TO THE Camino de Santiago – John Brierley.
“To walk the Camino do I have to be: Catholic, Christian, holy, a believer in God?”
Before previewing this stage I should like to insert this message from JOHNNIE Walker, a friend of mine and Camino guide to thousands. As we are just beginning a new year I thought it was a really “ fresh” view.
“I’m often asked these and similar questions. Here is my answer:
The Camino is church
The Camino is the church where you just walk right in. Everyone is welcome, no questions asked.
The Camino is the church where it doesn’t matter whether you have faith, whether you are searching for answers or simply want to enjoy the experience.
The Camino is the church where apart from walking to Santiago, respecting the way, nothing else is compulsory.
The Camino is the church where everyone is equal. There are no bosses.
The Camino is the church where you can pray, think or meditate when you want. Or not!
The Camino is the church where every meal is a communion which includes everyone around the table.
The Camino is the church where the arrows will guide you, not tell you what to do.
The Camino is the church where to lighten the load you can forgive your own sins and those who have sinned against you.
The Camino is the church where the choir is the dawn chorus of birds in the trees and sheep bleating in the meadow.
The Camino is the church filled with people just like you where you can make life long friends.
The Camino is the church where the only peals are peals of laughter from pilgrims.”
Johnnie Walker
So, on to the main intersection in Fromista and take a gravel path.
THE ROAD
Leaving Frómista is accomplished by retracing a few steps to the main intersection, do not blindly make your way through town and if you plan to leave before the sun rises do yourself the favor of scouting for arrows in advance. The trail here follows a gravel path punctuated by frequent “twin hitos” that are placed to discourage off-road vehicles from taking over the path. WP
JB recommends an alternative and quieter route from Poblacion ( nice bar ) via Villovieco following a tree lined riverside path “offering both shade and silence“. According to BB “ The river path is more appealing…where you’ll see stands of Poplar trees and rich bird life,including European robins,,canary-like serine’s,green woodpeckers,owls,hawks and falcons”.
The next village is Villarmentero de Campos which is connected to the river by a few hundred metre long country road .“We need to look for the distinctive white teepees in a field that identify the village” BB which are part of the accommodation offered by Albergue Almanacer.Different !
“Carrión de los Condes has a rich and prosperous, to say nothing of colorful, history. Located at the intersection of the Pilgrimage road and the río Carrión it attracted merchants and a sizable population. Charlemagne is reported to have used the fields along the river as an encampment on his quest to control the pilgrimage route. Over a dozen pilgrim hospices once called Carrión home, and to this day you will find that many of the albergues are under the care of one religious order or another, the nuns of Santa María are known to sing to pilgrims.” WP
We continue on the riverside path towards Villalcazar de Sirga. It is “ well known for its hospitality having welcomed pilgrims since the XIIth century when it became a commandery of the Knights Templar. There is a popular Cafe- Bar opposite the church” JB
“The magnificent Templar church Santa Maria la Virgen Blanca XIIIthC housing the tombs of nobles and royalty and now declared a national monument” JB King Alfonso X claimed that the White Virgin here had cured pilgrims, she is still there if you are in need of a miracle. WP
HISTORY
Carrión de los Condes has a rich and prosperous, to say nothing of colorful, history. Located at the intersection of the Pilgrimage road and the río Carrión it attracted merchants and a sizable population. Charlemagne is reported to have used the fields along the river as an encampment on his quest to control the pilgrimage route. Over a dozen pilgrim hospices once called Carrión home, and to this day you will find that many of the albergues are under the care of one religious order or another, the nuns of Santa María are known to sing to pilgrims. WP
At the height of its influence it had a population of 10 000 now reduced to 2200 ( and declining ). “ This interesting town retains a medieval atmosphere within its meandering side streets and was home to no less than 14 pilgrim hospitals” JB . It has a bloody past. “ It was the capital of much of the Tierra de campos area ruled by the Leonese Beni-Gomez family,the Counts of Carrion,several of whom met their deaths at the hands of the equally pugnacious El CID,after they reputedly,and very unwisely, mistreated his daughters. Mistreatment here was endemic further attested by the frieze in Iglesia de Santa Maria del Camino which depicts the frightful annual ” tribute” of 100 maidens demanded by the conquering Moors. A small example is shown below.There is more information in JB about more contemporary intrigues and disputes – wait till you see Plaque in the main square bearing the name of Generalissimo Franco a name generally erased because of its Fascist pastJBWho said the Meseta was boring?
Accomodation is at Hostal La Corte. “My husband and I stayed here on the 4th May while doing the Camino De Santiago The hotel was very well situated for the Camino. We were in the courtyard, which was lovely. The food at the restaurant was really good. We had the set menu of the day (vegetarian) for dinner. Breakfast was good. We had a nice stay.” INDEPENDENT REVIEW
The food looks good,too.“This place is unique and it is the best restaurant in this town. Even if you don’t spend the night in the hostel, you have to visit the restaurant. As far as I’m concerned, this is the best restaurant on the Camino from Saint Jean Pied de Port, and the staff is very friendly and professional. Many thanks for service!” ANOTHER REVIEW.
The only Giants you’re likely to see on the Meseta.
I have never quite concluded (yet) whether I am a “Pilgrim”,or just an “ inquisitive person”. In the Thesaurus Plus,I found that the two descriptions are semantically related,mutual synonyms almost. You can find over 250 synonyms for Pilgrim – my favourites are “ mendicant”,” sojourner”,” wayfarer” and my all time best- “ saunterer”,one who walks on holy ground. There are not so many for “ inquisitive person” but I liked “ voyager”,” trailblazer” and “pathfinder”. Of course there are less flattering descriptions such as “ meddler” and “nosey parker”. For Pilgrim you can be seen as a “ gallivanter” or “ gadabout”.
The Camino has provided its own Lexicon too. We have “ Bicigrinos “ who favour bikes and “ Turigrinos’ who favour dipping in and out of the Caminos often by coach,or those who walk short stages unencumbered. We have our own description- ” Camigas” – Spanglish for “ friends on the Camino”
Our second stage is dominated by crossing the Meseta.
We start in Burgos and finish in Astorga
The word ‘Meseta’ means plateau in Spanish. So, the Meseta of Spain is a plateau of the Iberian Peninsula, also known as the Meseta Central. The western slope of this plateau is inclined towards the Atlantic Ocean and forms the basins of the rivers Duero, Tagus and Guadiana. The plateau rises into the Cantabrian Mountains to the north and it becomes a series of ranges towards the east. La Mancha occupies the southeastern section of the Meseta Central. In the northeast, a certain symmetry is formed by the tectonic troughs of the Ebro and in the south by the Guadalquivir.The central part of the peninsula divides the Meseta Central into two divisions, Castile-Leon, the high basin of the northern Meseta and the Castile-La Mancha and Extremadura in the lower plateaus of the southern Meseta.
BREATHTAKING…But no Giants!
B. I should be focussing mainly but not exclusively on the places we shall be stopping over en route,but to also look into to those places that we merely traverse on our itinerary.
FOR REFERENCE I SHALL BE USING THE FOLLOWING BOOKS
THE CAMINO FRANCES – The Pilgrim Guide – A Wise Pilgrim Guide WP
CAMINO DE SANTIAGO – Camino Frances by John Brierley JB
CAMINO DE SANTIAGO – by Sergi Ranis SR
15th May 2023 and the return to Burgos, a major city on the Frances.
MOON – CAMINO DE SANTIAGO by Beebe Balhranin. BB
WP. JB. SR. BB. Are shorthand for reference points in the following narratives.
An Autumnal view of Burgos Cathedral
HISTORY
Burgos was originally founded at the end of the 9th century in a bid to repopulate these northern plains. From the expulsions of the Muslims (around the end of the 11th century) it quickly became one of Castilla’s most important city. It was here that the Catholic Kings Isabel and Ferdinand welcomed home Christopher Columbus after his second voyage to the new world, and it was here where General Francisco Franco was publicly proclaimed as Generalísimo in 1936 and which would serve as the dictators base of operations until the end of the civil war.
Set along the wonderful río Arlanzon, the city was built with massive walls and even more massive gates. In spite of this, the territory of Burgos (but more to the point Castilla) was widely disputed. The seed for much of the fighting was the will of King Fernando-I, who although wise enough to rule over the northern regions, was not too clever in managing his estate. He chose to divide the north into three regions upon his death, with each region going to a different heir.
Alfonso VI received León, García received Galicia, Sancho II received Castilla, and his daughter Urracareceived the city of Zamora.
More land disputes followed and in the end it was Alfonso that reigned over the whole territory and was crowned the emperor of the Iberian Peninsula. This was at the end of 11th century, and the wealth collected by Alfonso from tariffs throughout the peninsula was transformed into palaces and a Cathedral, catapulting Burgos into prosperity.
Burgos is also the home of El Cid, a fierce warrior, and cunning politician. He was banished from the city by King Alfonso for having forced him to take an oath attesting to his innocence in the death of his brother Sancho. El Cid would eventually turn down an invitation to return and fight for Alfonso, and instead traveled east to Valencia where he maneuvered himself into a kingdom of his own. He is now buried in the Cathedral.
The Hotel Norte y Londres ** is in the heart of Burgos, in the pedestrian plaza de Alonso Martínez, just 150 meters from the Cathedral, the statue of El Cid and the shopping and tapas area. This is our starting point for the second stage of our Camino. It is featured in Brierley’s guidebook, P.131. Eleven minute walk from the bus station .
The Camino passes by the front door.
LEAVING BURGOS
THE ROAD
The road out of Burgos is, thankfully, much shorter than the road in. The camino from here enters the meseta, with its endless plains of wheat. The landscape, while seemingly unremarkable, offers a wealth of flora and fauna and opportunities for peaceful contemplation. Do not underestimate it, for this is where the second third of the camino begins, the part of the camino which tones your mind . Once at the far end of Burgos be wary of misleading signs (some quite official looking) that point the way to Villabilla. That town has been severed from camino traffic by the construction of a rail track and some efforts have been made to surreptitiously reconnect it. WP The Practical Path – We leave behind the built environment and enter the relative wilderness of the sublime Meseta JB Go down to the Gate Hospital del Rey,leaving the old walled quarters of the city behind. Eventually crossing the river Arlanzon and onwards along the valley SR.PS . In a little over 10 KM we come to Tardajos – Cafe bar Ruiz recommended BB.
TARDAJOS.
Passing through Tardajos, along the shortest path possible, the average pilgrim would be forgiven for overlooking its historical significance.
In fact, Tardajos lies at the intersection of the two primary and ancient trade routes that bisected this land. It was once a walled city and had three magnificent churches. Only one, the Iglesia de Santa María, remains.
Tardajos, like Rabé de las Calzada (ahead), also had a castle on a hill.
THE ROAD
The camino departs from the main road in Tardajos and from here you won’t return to anything resembling a busy road until Frómista, do not be tempted to keep on the main road but rather cross the street and pass through the village. WP
Passing through Rabe de las Calzadas ( once the junction of two Roman roads) a stamp may be obtained in the Iglesia de Santa Marina. BB. The Fuente de Prao Torre – a picnic area whose fountain may be dry? Pedras Sagradas 4KM on are mounds and cairns built by passing pilgrims from the local stark-white fieldstones.BB The Camino continues stretching to the horizon to a high point on the Meseta before descending steeply down the aptly named Mule-Killer Slope Cuesta Matamulas.JB
Doesn’t look too bad to me.
Hornillos de Camino
BAR !
Hornillos is one of the best examples of a “Royal” camino road: in this case one long street (the aptly named calle real) stretched out along the camino. This layout allowed every building to face the camino, a trait which reminds us that the current heavy development along the camino is anything but a new phenomenon. The town once belonged to the monastery of St. Denis and was home to a Benedictine community.
Folklore places Charlemagne here too, baking bread for his troops along the river.
Ruins and medieval bridges are the only visible remains.WP The name Hornillos derives from kiln or oven – the diminutive “ illos “ suggesting a small stove. A peaceful place JB A gentle climb follows climbing back up to the Meseta. Further on lies the classic pilgrim town of Hontanas which appears almost by surprise as it lies in a hollow and is therefore not visible until you are practically on top of it…and our accommodation for the night.
And so ends day one of our second stage.
THE TRAVELLING WILBURYS – The End of the Linehttps://music.youtube.com/watch?v=stxftCSiVBc&feature=share. “Well it’s all right, riding around in the breeze Well it’s all right if you live the life you please Well it’s all right, doing the best you can Well it’s all right, as long as you lend a hand”.
A short break with some long standing friends in Marlow. We were taken for a visit to the characterful village of Cookham.
We parked up on Cookham Common which is a National Trust site.
A walk along the Thames towpath is always enjoyable and all the more so in benign Autumnal weather.
An eye catching nomenclature.
Apparently, this property was apparently being considered for purchase by Frank Lampard; the call of Merseyside must have been too strong to resist.
Just imagine parading down those stairways.
Leaving the towpath we walked through Churchgate.
Then into Holy Trinity Churchyard.
Holy Trinity, Cookham, is nestled in the east side of the village, a place famous for being the birthplace and residence of the British painter Stanley Spencer.
It was only a short walk to the Stanley Spencer Gallery where there are a variety of exhibitions of Spencer’s work each year.
It is a small gallery but well appointed.The artist featured a disused phone box adjacent to the entrance.
Each exhibit was accompanied by explanatory texts and it soon became obvious that Stanley Spencer had a unique talent and a love of the natural world that he revered in and around the village.
A neighbourly exchange .Adding to the bin – what we would call composting- after his First World War experience – he served in a non combative role – he introduced everyday materials in to his work,as exemplified by the corrugated,metal cover. Regarding such everyday items as naturally occurring.This is Christ preaching to the villagers.
There is an unfinished mural in the gallery depicting Christ at the Cookham Regatta.
His adult life was troubled – a needless divorce, an unconsummated hasty second marriage which ended no sooner than it had begun. The article below throws some light on the effects of his relationships on his two daughters in particular.
From the Gallery it was a short walk to the house of some friends of our friends! This house and gardens has links with Spencer but to our delight we were invited in for tea and biscuits and made friends with a lovely dog.
Our host also showed us around his recording studios – being a music fan I was fascinated and impressed. There were awards on the walls signifying some very successful popular song writing – this was one such.
Last full day in ALVOR and here are some of the things that we’ll miss.
SUNSETSWalking through the Three Brothers Beach.Walking along the beachfront.
Coffee at the beach bar.
Always plenty of space.
The Apartment which was full marks!
Had it to ourselves most of the time in the afternoons.The morning view of the sea in the distance at breakfast time.The wine…And the White Port.Last night’s dinner venue.The Fisherman’s Rest.And Pastal del Nata of course.Amusing sculpture at Faro Airport
After a breakfast bun you have to go walking and so we made for Lagos.Local bus down to ALVOR and then a wait for a connecting service to Lagos. Fortunately we had a cab share with two other couples,one from Ireland and the the other from Scotland. “ An Englishman,an Irishman and a Scotsman get into a taxi….” They were good company for the 25 minute drive.Found a square for coffee and a browse through the Baedeker. The centre is quite compact and very pedestrianised.Livelier than sleepy ALVOR but in a good way – there were even some young people!Some great music too.
There was plenty to enjoy by way of alleyways and tiles.
Blue is the GoTo tile colour.The Igreja de San Antonio is a National Monument believed to be the birth site of St Anthony of Lisbon.Not far away the Igreja de Santa Maria could be seen.It had an interesting Baptismal Font that reminded me of a Samovar.An imposing doorway in the Praca D Henrique.
It was the Romans who built the first town walls around Lagos and these were reinforced during the Arab and later Christian occupations of the town. The substantial city walls still form a protective ring around the old historic centre of Lagos date from 16th century, a time when raids by Barbary pirates were all too common and the threat from Spain turned out to be all too real.
A famous son of LagosThis gateway Porta de São Gonçalo, an arched entrance into the old town .
The city is most visited for its beaches and nightlife which can be very boisterous in peak season – the beaches looked very inviting.
Plenty of opportunities for taking to the sea in a variety of ways.
He was a 14 th century saint born in Lagos.
Another fortification right on the front and guarding the entrance to the city.
If I had to take to the waters I think this would be my preferred mode of sea faring – I loved the busy waterways.
The pedestrian bridge over which you can walk to more beaches,when it’s not allowing a boat through.
We visited the Mercado which is on three levels.
The headless fishmonger.
I bought this grater on the first floor – a handcrafted “ fair trade” product
Then it was back through the streets to the bus station for a comfortable ride back to Alvor by coach for all of €4.5.
These two enjoyable experiences were in ALVOR and a short riverside walk out.
Portugal is famous for its tiles – these are public benches.
The market consisted of small stalls with varying amounts and types of produce – mainly smallholdings I would guess. A homely feel to them.
String ‘em up and hang ‘em high.Don’t be put off by their appearance, I bought some and they were delicious both on the BBQ and in a salad. I must get some seeds!
Leaving this part of the waterfront we made our way through a small reconstruction of a shelter, along the Ria to the base of a small cliff.
There was some clambering to be done in places but well worth the effort for the views. Along the route were eight notice boards displaying photos and information about the flora and fauna, some of which are unique to this area.Fortunately the tide was out revealing mud/ sandbanks where bird and people were looking for shell fish.Being Autumn there was not vey much by way of greenery – the optimum time to walk here would be in Springtime, from February to May – an abundance of butterflies apparently, plus flowers and even small reptiles.These proved to be the exception.However,reading the information boards was informative and the solitude welcome,plus the views.An unexpected sight was this small dam which marks the end of the walk.Old Saltpans.
We met an English couple who have a timeshare in ALVOR and they told us that once they did the walk on a Bank Holiday and were startled by gunfire – apparently on those days random hunting is allowed – fortunately they were able to attract the gun holders and got through unscathed.
Saturday and after waiting in vain for the number 13 bus – unluckily for us – no buses on Saturdays nor Sundays, we called a taxi and within three minutes we were on Portimao’s riverside.
This is a really attractive walkway,replacing much of the long gone sardine canning infrastructure.
Following the signs for the Turismo, housed in a renovated Moorish building,further frustration as it was closed, yes you guessed it,at weekends when you would think they would be the days most likely to be busy with visitors. No buses,no Turismo,and later to discover no shops open after 1pm – I need to get my head round this Algarvian logic.
At this point the decision was coffee time in the park with a refreshing view of the fountain.A look at Google Maps showed that we were not faraway from the Portimao Museum – hopefully it would not be closed for the weekend.
Walking alongside the River Arrade .
We stopped to examine this conveyor belt,just outside the museum.
All was to be revealed once inside the Museum…which was open and for this weekend,free admission!Notice the Storks’ nest on top of the chimney. https://museudeportimao.pt/museu/noticias
It is housed in a renovated canning factory the Portimão Museum, invites you to discover the origins and evolution of its community, territory and the most striking aspects of its industrial and maritime history. In addition to the permanent exhibition “Portimão, Territorio e Identidade”, the museum presents a diversified cultural program in the temporary exhibition rooms and auditorium. More of that later.
If someone told you that you would be both well informed and fascinated by the sardine canning process,you might have been forgiven for a scornful riposte – well it was as much about the working lives of the mainly women here as it was about tins. The first thing to strike you was the amazing layout of the exhibits.
There was also an old “ newsreel” type of video running with English subtitles in a small auditorium – fascinating pictures of the women in what at first appeared to be nun-like habits hard at work. Picutes of their infants in the newly created crèche (1951), and of separate canteens for men and women. The other surprising elements were the various machines and processes the humble sardine went through before it got into the can – the lithography and decoration of which was very impressive.
The actual workplace was well reproduced,too.
There was also a section devoted to the 19 th century King Carlos and his seagoing adventures.
More than a passing resemblance to Oliver Hardy.
The temporary exhibition was about the relationship between food and art – it certainly gave us an appetite for lunch! Below are some of the images.
Anchovies as well as Sardines.
The canning factories had been heavily subsidised during Salazar’s dictatorship. When he died the subsidies mostly dried up,this,plus dwindling supplies of fish and competition from North Africa saw the canning industry die for the most part.
There followed a walkabout around a largely deserted town. Portimao as you might have gathered is not a “ tourist” town and its beaches are 3 Km away,including the famous Praia de Rocha and opposite in Ferrugudo,where we once camped in the mid seventies. But worth a day for the feel of a working Portuguese town.
Tiles are a feature of many Portuguese buildings.In an impressive square.And Stork nests.
There are three bridges over the river.
This being the most recent.
There are various sculptures alongside the river.
Be grateful that I didn’t show you the backside!And the restored bandstand .
Portimao was a worthwhile excursion. I wonder if we’ll have sardines for dinner?
Take a holiday so long, you forget all of your passwords!
Alvor was founded in 436 B.C. by the Carthaginian General Aníbal Barca as a commercial port, which he named Portus Hannibalis. The settlement grew around the sea, near the place called Vila Velha, where a Celtic castro dominated the river mouth during the Iron Age.
The history of Alvor is long, possibly dating back as far as the 4th century BC. During the Roman occupation of Iberia it was a prosperous port and later became the Moorish town of Al-bur. However, the village’s greatest claim to fame is as the place where King João II died in 1495. In more recent years still, it cemented its place in the history books as the venue for the negotiations which brought about the independence of the former Portuguese territory of Angola.
YOU CAN CERTAIN DO THAT IN ALVOR IN SEPTEMBER
Five days in to this little holiday and I have lost track of time. How? Why? It’s only when you come away from your regular routines and haunts that you realise the rut you’re in. I’ve not missed the morning paper, the garden or the allotment,nor the never ending televised sporting events I am usually guilty of having on,even if only half watching. I have not missed walking because I have done plenty of that since being here.I have not missed the tedium of “royal” events either.
There have been some interesting meanderings around ALVOR – not a place for historic settings as the “ castle” exemplifies – but attractive niches and corners.The castle grounds are now a childrens’ play area.
The Mercardo was very quiet,too.
In the mornings, nothing much opened before 10 am – not a single punter down this popular alleyway.
It will be different tonight .
A walk back down towards the River ALVOR Estuary
Brummies will brag about their “ Floozie in the Jacuzzi”; here in Alvor they have their” Mermaid on the Esplanade”
A couple of other artistic eye catchers.And from the other side..
It was time to take the Boardwalk trail.
A traditionally painted fishing boat.
It’s a wide network of boardwalks that connects Alvor Beach with the river banks. The total distance of the boardwalks is about 6 km. Following the boardwalk you can appreciate two different sides of Alvor; its wide sandy beach and the freshwater marshes that are home to dozens of species of birds.
Off we stroll with a pleasant breeze for accompaniment.
On either side you can see the estuary, the dunes,marshes and all manner of boats.
Based a mile and a half or so up from ALVOR Town and not wanting the hassle of a hire car – bus trips €0.70 and taxis very reasonable – mastering the bus timetables are important. You can obtain a prepaid card to show on the bus – the amount is dependent on how often you anticipate using a bus. Tomorrow we envisage using it to get to Portimao for the day.
The VAI E VEM bus service .
Every half an hour.
I shall finish this Blog with some photos of the local flora,many of which are found around the pool and grounds of the apartment.
A heavily pruned Fig tree.Providing ambience and adding a feeling of well being.I’m off – might even have a swim – but certainly a lie down.
A vacation is what you take when you can no longer take what you’ve been taking.
PYRENEESView from our bunkhouse at Orisson SIGHTS ABD SIGNPOSTS – Pointing to the clamber over the Pyrenees Welcome sight of Auberge Orisson Alto del PerdonSan DomingoFLORAAND FAUNA They all count!
FOOD AND DRINK ON THE CAMINO FRANCES
Not quite the start we expected – Stansted ServicesFirst Continental BrewWelcome sight of the Pop- Up van on the Route Napoleon- 2nd dayHappy DaysPork Crackling Tapa – To die for? Possibly.Rob taking rehydration seriously .My classic Spanish salad topped with Elvers.“Ramblers” must have a different connotation in Spanish.Tortilla the Pelegrinos’ lunch choice.Cheese and Membrillo at the Jubilados’ BarTapa time Tinto Verano at 41* – nothing better.You can make a song and dance about Estrella Galicia.Cooling Gazpzcho – lunchtime starter in BurgosSlow roast Ham Hock – melts in your mouth.A typical Continental breakfast A typical breakfast menu!Orujo- the perfect nightcap.
EVERYWHERE YOU GO ALWAYS TAKE THE WEATHER WITH YOU.
The sun is always behind you when you are walking towards the West.The rain in Spain falls mainly in…..Hiding from the sunshineA good hat – an essential.Phew!Cloudless skies became the norm.Red Rioja Soil – Blazing sunWhy not?Welcome shade on a rare forest trackA stretch of water – always a refreshing sight.
MOSTLY PAIRS
Dinner in the little plaza at San Domingo Mary and Rob Arriving At Orisson Girls on the Beer.Hotel A Santiago- A great Pilgrims’ stopover .Me and Sue with a hangover…Not.A STRIKING IMAGE AT ATAPUERCA BURGOS WITH A COUPLE OF CHESTNUTS “ There aren’t any more of these are there,John?” “ Dunno”“Probably the best beer in the world”, say Mary and Anita.Tom is not superstitious….“Mother Mary calls to me,saying words of wisdom, let it be”Tom enjoying an early morning Clara! Salud.
BORDER BETWEEN FRANCE AND SPAIN – A PITY ALL BORDERS ARE NOT LIKE THIS.
ULTREIA ET SUSEIA – “ Let’s Go Forward, Hallelujah “Let’s Go Higher”. Who knows…?
Thanks to the Camigos – Anita,Sue, Mary, June,Tom,Rob and Mike for their company, good humour and perseverance on the Camino Frances.
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