To O Porrino – photos from group members- and a Friday farewell to two of our group – Anita & Maggie.
23 May
A TWO DAY SAUNTER ALONG THE CAMINO MINHO….Caminha to Tui,via Valenca.
22 May
This is a fantastic trail that starts in Caminha and extends to Valença, providing an ideal experience for hiking, biking, and running. This route represents the original variation of the Portuguese Coastal Way, moving away from the coast.
Ecopista – Caminho do Rio (River Trail) is an experience of contrasting landscapes that shows us a diverse reality and leads us through the memory of time to the relationship between Man and the Minho River, providing the full enjoyment of a ‘greenway’ that crosses Vila Nova de Cerveira and connects this territory to the municipalities of Valença and Caminha.
The natural conditions along this route allow for the presence of various bird species such as the mallard, heron, cormorant, and kingfisher; mammals such as the otter and marten; amphibians such as the green frog, newt, and salamander; and fish such as the Iberian barbel, chub, and trout. It is due to its importance and natural diversity that the River Trail is integrated into the Natura 2000 Network and the Waterbird Protection Area of the Minho River estuary.
The next day after an other buffet…this time breakfast, we continued our way towards Valenca
A border town located on the banks of the Minho River, Valença is surrounded by walls and retains the characteristics of a 17th-18th century fortified city, designed in the style of the French architect Vauban.
Its original name was “Contrasta,” meaning a town opposite another, due to its location across the Minho River from the Galician city of Tui.
Today, it is a city with a thriving trade, particularly known for its highly valued local crafts.
I don”t know if towels and bargain packs of socks count as crafts but we didn’t come all this way for them!
HOTEL CRUCEIRO DO MONTE – A very friendly place for Thursday 21st night halt.
DAY VI ON THE PORTUGUES COASTAL CAMINO – A Rest Day in a fine city.
19 May
The Statue of Viana is an 18th-century monument, commissioned in 1774 by José António Freire de Andrade, Governor of Arms of the province of Minho, 3rd Count of Bobadela.
The Rococo-style statue depicts a female figure in flowing robes, holding a caravel, which dominates the entire ensemble, symbolizing Viana do Castelo and its maritime heritage.
The four busts that crown the corners of the pedestal symbolize the European, Asian, African, and American continents, alluding to the “four corners of the world” and the seafaring and mercantile tradition of the people of Viana.
Viana do Castelo railway station
DAY V ON THE PORTUGUESE CAMINO. From Esposende to Viana do Castelo.
19 May
A colourful evening meat at Sancho Panza with flaming Portuguese/Brazilian Chorizo for starters – don’t try this at home!
DAY IV ON THE CAMINO PORTUGUESE. Vila do Conde to Esposende.
18 May
Today’s Etape was long in prospect. Most of the group set off before 08.00 with the intention of walking the whole way, 16 miles or so,taking in breakfast en route. Rob and I felt that we would need to shorten the stretch by five miles. We found breakfast quite quickly and pleased to find somewhere open that early on a Sunday.
This helped our understanding and appreciation of the striking tile tableau depicting Povoa’s maritime history with an emphasis on the long established fishing industry.
DAY III – Portuguese Camino, Saturday 16th May,Matasinhos – Vila do Conde,23KM in a sunny breeze.
16 May
Started off through quiet streets , a contrast to Porto.
Located in the heart of Vila do Conde, at the intersection of the serene waters of the Ave River and the grandeur of the ocean, stands the hotel housed in the historic Santa Clara Monastery.
Its uniqueness lies not only in its remarkable architecture, but also in its ability to combine historical legacy with contemporary comfort and sophistication. This magnificent building, with its neoclassical features and exquisite symmetry, is a testament to the passage of time and radiates an imposing presence. Its origins date back to 1318, the result of a dream of its founders; however, the Monastery as we know it today is the result of several renovation works that took place in the 18th century.
Day II ON THE PORTUGUESE COASTAL CAMINO – Porto to Matosinhos.
15 May
Extravagantly good breakfast at the Log Hotel,Porto. A mornings respite in Porto afoot, before meeting at the cathedral 14..00 to walk to Matasinhos….the Camino proper begins. Rob,Mike and I took the bus into town for €2.50 and we soon found our way into the historic centre.
Campanha Station in Porto is one of Portugal’s most important railway landmarks, combining history and functionality in a structure that serves as a vital link for transportation in the northern region of the country. Inaugurated in 1875, the station retains a classic charm with traditional architectural elements, making it an essential point for those arriving in the city.
Although the title of the main train station of Porto belongs to Campanha, Sao Bento Railway station has something else to pride itself on – the spectacular interiors and fascinating history. The beautiful building that houses the station was once home to the 16th-century monastery, the Convent of Sao Bento da Ave Maria.
Unfortunately, the original building was demolished in 1896, but it’s hard to regret it, as the beautiful neoclassical complex that was built instead is truly a work of art.
Even if you are not planning to take a train in Porto, Sao Bento rail station is worth stopping by to admire its amazing decorations. The main hall is a splendid sight as it’s adorned with over 2000 azulejo tiles, depicting the history of Portugal.
As forecast we experienced a spot of drizzle, as after a welcome coffee, we made our way past the Cathedral,across the bridge; our intention was to enjoy the views along the Douro and to catch the cable car down to the PORT side of the city.
Dom Luis BridgeThe most famous bridge in Porto, the Dom Luis Bridge, was designed by Théophile Seyrig, a co-founder of Eiffel and Company alongside Gustave Eiffel. Its sweeping iron arch and panoramic upper walkway provide some of the most breathtaking views in the city.
The Gaia Cable Car, or Teleférico de Gaia, is a monocable gondola lift located in Vila Nova de Gaia, across the Douro river from the Portuguese city of Porto. The upper station is located next to Jardim do Morro station of the Porto Metro, the upper level of the Dom Luís I Bridge, and the Serra do Pilar Monastery. The lower station is on the riverside promenade of Cais de Gaia, with several nearby Port wine cellars, along with restaurants, cafes and a departure point for Douro river cruises.
The line was built by Doppelmayr at a cost of €12 million, and is operated by the company Telef – Transportes por Cabo e Concessões, SA. Construction commenced in March 2009, and the line entered service in April 2011. As of November 2024, the line runs every day except Christmas Day, with services starting at 10:00 and ending between 18:00 and 20:00.
Matasinhos has a deserved reputation for its fish and seafood.
DAY ONE – The Beginning of the Portugues Camino – Calm start.
15 May
Thursday,14 th May,2026
After a taxi ride,organised by Mike and shared also with Sharon and Rob, we arrived at Birmingham International in good time. Surprisingly quiet in the “ Drop Off “ zone and even more deserted at the Jet2 Check- in point. The time from dropping of the hold luggage to exiting Security was less than 20 painless minutes! Fastest yet.
It occurred to me that the reason everywhere was so relatively quiet was possibly because the Wetherspoons was rammed with passengers, with a queue to boot.
So with two hours to kill, we found a quieter coffee spot, having met up with Rita and Dave in Departures. We have all exchanged the expression “ small world” after a conversation, which came to pass when Dave realised that he and I had both attended St Philip’s Grammar School. Dave being younger than me ( like most people) started a few years after me, but happened to remark that he had a cousin who had attended at the same time as me. He said his cousin had gone on to become the Headteacher of Holy Cross School, Walmley – this immediately rang a bell.
“ Your cousin wasn’t Paul King was it?”
“ Yes” he replied in astonishment.
“ I was his “ best man” “, I replied.
I went on to describe Paul and our friendship of close on 70 years ….
“ Well, I”ll be….”
Small World” indeed.
Already the Camino was springing pleasant surprises….
Not quite so pleasant was the 45 minute delay to take-off, however some time was made up and we arrived in good time.
A francesinha (meaning “little Frenchie”) is an iconic Portuguese sandwich originating from Porto, developed in the 1950s as a local take on the French croque monsieur. It is a massive, high-calorie, toasted sandwich made with thick bread, filled with various meats—typically steak, ham, sausage, and linguiça—covered in melted cheese, and smothered in a rich, spicy tomato-and-beer sauce.
Just a Song Before I Go …One of CSN’s Finest Songs..IMHO😅 Plus the Camino
9 May
https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=AYRjvH1NGVo&si=wI2E5j64Nf_mA1Eh
“Just a song before I go
To whom it may concern
Traveling twice the speed of sound
It’s easy to get burned
When the shows were over
We had to get back home
And when we opened up the door
I had to be alone
She helped me with my suitcase
She stands before my eyes
Driving me to the airport
And to the friendly skies
Going through security
I held her for so long
She finally looked at me in love
And she was gone
Just a song before I go
A lesson to be learned
Traveling twice the speed of sound
It’s easy to get burned”.
Last Blog this side of Porto I promise.
As you may know,Barbara had a slip and fall last weekend resulting in a new hip on Sunday last, at Heartlands Hospital. We were all extremely grateful for the care she received there. Meantime, I was really concerned about the dilemma that the Camino suddenly presented. “ Should I Stay or Should I Go?” To quote another song title.
It was only after Barbara’s transfer to Solihull Hospital, Thursday 7th May, that things became a little clearer. Solihull is more of a post operative place for patients with surgery like hip replacements.. – REHABILITATION.
Today, Friday 9th May, Hannah and I visited Barbara – Solihull Hospital is more village- like than Heartlands and from our very first steps inside , we felt welcome. ( this is not to decry Heartlands which serves more purposes on a grander scale ). It was just the ambience,I guess.
A hip replacement,from a sudden fall, apparently presents different challenges than those that are long awaited ( sometimes overdue). The recovery time …ie mobility takes longer and can often be more painful at times, which makes regaining mobility a lengthier process. Whilst there, we were fortunate enough to witness nursing carried out patiently and diligently. The bonus for Barbara, Hannah and myself was the chance to talk with the two physio-rehabilitation experts looking after Barbara and gaining some valuable advice on how we might adapt our house to better suit Barbara’s homecoming and continued rehabilitation.
It was only after their appraisal of Barbara’s predisposition and feistiness that we we felt reassured that she was in expert,sympathetic and professional hands …literally. Barbara and Hannah were adamant that I must go on the Camino…
Back home, we began changing rooms etc to facilitate a safer and comfortable setting for Barbara, funnily enough Han and I felt quite energised in what became a “ project” almost….seriously it was mainly about shifting things around ….creatively of course. We are not quite there yet but we know what we want it to be.
It is not possible to predict when Barbara might be home but given present progress, hopefully in a few days’ time.
Saturday 9 th May – this time we drove to Solihull and bought a few days ‘ pass for the car park which was very quiet. Being a Saturday not many day patients and the corridors etc were so quiet we might have been in a convent.
In brief, apart from Hannah and myself , we were pleased to welcome Daniel up again from Berkhamstead and later Vickee and granddaughter Martha at the bedside. Two physios came in ( almost rapturous applause ) and encouraged Barbara on to her feet and lots of steps!
Again much credit to the professionals and Barbara’s grit and determination.
And ,so it came to pass that we eventually went back home where Dan and Hannah moved a single bed downstairs to Barbara’s temporary bedroom. Very impressed. We all felt we had seen great progress in terms of mobility and self belief today.
——————————————————————————————
BACK TO THE CAMINO
We shall all walk at our own pace, I would only offer this piece of advice which is to take a bag- break at least every hour, enjoy refreshments despite necessity and smell,the flowers,
It would be unreasonable to assume we should all arrive at our digs at the same time , but please don’t check in until I get there, as confusion can arise about whose rooms are whose…Receptionists understandably won’t know our circumstances.
Look forward to the meet up at Birmingham International Airport on Thursday 14 th.
“I’m dreaming of roads.”
– Antonio Machado –
I’m dreaming of roads
of the afternoon. The Hills
gold, the pine green,
the dusty hens!…
Where will the road lead?
I’m singing, traveler
along the path…
-the afternoon is falling-.
“In the heart I had
the thorn of a passion;
I managed to pull it off one day:
I don’t feel the heart anymore.”
And the whole field for a moment
It stays mute and gloomy,
meditating. The wind blows
on the banks of the river
Evening gets darker;
and the path that slips
and weakly bleach
it blurs and disappears.
My singing is whining again:
“A sharp golden thorn,
who could feel you
nailed to the heart”.
First of May – a look back at past Portuguese Caminos – and a hearty updated folk song to begin…
1 May
https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=9Ruvmo5bCGg&si=_d-n1YvCMyDJgmSX
Take the scorn and wear the horns
It was the crest when you were born
Your father’s father wore it
And your father wore it too
Robin Hood and Little John
Have both gone to the fair-o
We shall to the merry green wood
To hunt the buck and hare-o
Hal-an-Tow, jolly rumbelow
We were up long before the day-o
To welcome in the summertime
To welcome in the May-o
For summer is coming in
And winter’s gone away
What happened to the Spaniards
That made so great a boast-o?
They shall eat the feathered goose
And we shall eat the roast-o
God bless Aunt Mary Moses
With all her power and might-o
Send us peace in England
Send us peace by day and night-o
Well, if old folk songs sniff of nostalgia, then recalling Caminos walked this century could be politely termed “ recent history.” As with any look back,there comes context because despite familarity there are always differences.For example,I have walked the Camino Ingles from Ferrol to S de C twice with two totally different groups and although both were great saunters, they were still unique in the experiences, conversations and meetings that took place.
Hence, I invite you to look back on Caminos Portuguese from the past that I blogged about – I would say from the outset that WordPress is much improved if not the content – I shall try to evoke both the time and the context. The first recollection is a Blog I wrote eight years after it took place – in 2012 I only had a notebook – so I decided in 2020 to write up the “ lost Caminos “. This is a long blog as I tried to tackle the entire Camino in one post!
The Portuguese Internal Camino from Porto 2012
From John the Baptist lookalikes to meetings with Portuguese pelegrinas, memories of my roommate Mac, to a memorable t- shirt and a NEW YORK yellow poncho, this was also where I took the phrase “ ensuitepilgrim “ the title of the blog pages since.
Caminho Portuguese – Coastal Route)
This is really a summary of preparations back in the days when I carried all my stuff….for the last time as it turned out!
Oporto to Santiago de Compostella – September 2013….
This was my only “ solo” Camino and it is memorable for the kindnesses I received en route and also the solitude which I found strange at first and then I slipped easily into that mode. I confess to using my I-pod along the way, mainly listening to a Camino soundtrack I had compiled.
. “High On The Skyline”. THE NEW MENDICANTS ( this is not a monastic order! )
” Soul Shoes”. GRAHAM PARKER
“You Better Move On”. ARTHUR ALEXANDER
“One More Cup of Coffee”. CALEXICO & ROGER McGOUGH
“True Love & High Adventure” GRAND DRIVE
“There Goes the Sun”. PERNICE BROTHERS
“The Lower Road. THEA GILMORE featuring JOAN BAEZ
“It Will Be a Good Day” YES
“Ends of the Earth” LORD HURON
“Everyman Needs a Companion” Fr JOHN MISTY
“Sangre de Cristo”. SCUD MOUNTAIN BOYS
“Wild Places”. COLIN BLUNSTONE
“Travelling Alone”. TIFT MERRITT
“Walk Like a Giant”. NEIL YOUNG
“Mr Blue Sky”. TONY DISCONTI ( Jeff Lynne Tribute)
“Jesus is a Hobo”. CHARLIE PARR
“Down Among the Cove “. DUANE ALLMAN
“June Hymn” THE DECEMBRISTS
“Hot Dusty Roads”. BUFFALO SPRINGFIELD
“Beautiful View”. RON SEXSMITH
“Ramblin’ On My Mind”. ROBERT JOHNSON
“The Sea “. SANDY DENNY
“Crossroads”. RYAN COODER
“Pinches of Salt” ROY HARPER
“Beyond the Shore”. WILLARD GRANT CONSPIRACY
“Into the Great Wide Open”. TOM PETTY
“Waterfalls”. PAUL McCARTNEY
“Ease Down the Road”. BONNIE PRINCE BILLY
“Miles from Nowhere”. CAT STEVENS
“On a Day Like This”. ELBOW
“Restless Feet”. DANNY &THE CHAMPIONS OF THE WORLD
“Wide River to Cross”. LEVON HELM
“As I Roved Out”. JANE SIBERRY
“Going Home”. LEONARD COHEN
I still have it!
“Life’s a road full of ups and downs, but it’s the journey that makes the difference.” Every step we take, every decision we make, every challenge we face, all shapes us and makes us who we are. Life is an adventure and it takes courage to embark on it and keep going even when it gets tough. Life is precious and deserves to be lived with passion and determination. “
by Hape Kerkeling in “I’ll be gone”
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