After a cheerful reception in a local patisserie and breakfast ,we set off around 08.45 on our last,saunter.There is always a mountain in the distance and as far as we’re concerned that’s the best place for them, beautiful as they are.Sponsored by Estrella GaliciaRepresents the increasing number of Peregrinas on the Camino these days rather well.About 2 km out of Padron, on the N550 we came across the hotel a number of us stayed in on the first Sutton Coldfield Ramblers’ Camino, memorable for Hannah’s assistance to a bewildered waiter trying to make sense of the dinner orders for 25 SC Ramblers.He responded by gifting us four jugs of Orujo at the end of the meal.The Cruceiro above and the “ snail” were positioned in a gardenMore mountains and vinesClassic HORREOSWe were approaching a very famous church on the Portuguese Camino, whose twin towers are in the distance. CHURCH SANTUARIO DA ESCRAVITUDE
This shrine is just 5 km from Padrón on the way to Santiago de Compostela, on the right. It is worth highlighting the fountain that is under its impressive stairway, which tells an interesting and miraculous story. It is about an ill man that was travelling along the Way of St. James in the hope of being healed of his dropsy. He stopped at the fountain to have a drink and was miraculously cured without seeing a doctor 72 hours later. He then said, “Thank you, Our Lady, for taking away the ailment”. This then became the story that gave origin to this sanctuary, and which ultimately began the construction of this structure thanks to an xx cart that the pilgrim donated for his gratitude. The project was completed in 1886. The project that had begun in the sixteenth century was completed when a shepherd placed an image of Our Lady with Baby Jesus in appreciation of a favour that he received from her.The altarSt JamesThe Vigo to Santiago railway line parallel to the church & N550.Another lovely setting for a villaPeregrinos walking towards S de C still glimpse of the railwayAnother “ tropical” shrubCoffee stopA later beer stopOur three Camigos outside the S de C cathedral and they deserved to look so pleased – what an achievement!End of Camino celebration mealAnd it’s good night from him.
A Misty StartImpressive traffic bridge An older, impressive HorreosSky slowly clearing as sauntered along quiet lanes and small hamletsAn impressive settingLooking for…..in the churchyard Galician cottage flower bordersEnjoyable refreshments stop – Rob translated Fogar as “ hearth” so perhaps that evokes a warm welcome.Galicia in the sunshine is hard to beat…but some might say I’m prejudiced!Vines lifted and grown on these archetypal granite supports are to prevent disease caused by lack of air circulation – I liked the potatos planted beneath. A typical,Portuguese Camino trailCountry style manual labour – weed clearance- reminded me of the state my allotment might be in when I get backNot to mention the hot weather’s effect back in the UKThe Caminos came centuries before autovias Mountains, blue skies …enough said.View from our second cafe stop – Kas Limon and a banana A traditional Galician CemetorioLooking towards Pontesecures, a village bordering PadronA ceramics factory and round the next bend in the river is a paper millThe paper millA tradition village clothes washing place A wall entirely smothered by this bee friendly epicCrossing the river into PadronA church erected on a hill in a place where the apostle allegedly preachedThe traditional,tale is that after Santiago’s body was recovered it was brought here by boat and tied to a stone – hence PADRON – it is kept in the Santiago chuch just to the right.Everyone enjoyed today’s stage and we now have only one day to go until we reach Santiago de Compostela.
One of the more unusual warning noticesThe aforementioned chapelA classic, village wash place Cruceiros far more common in Galicia Take note….A Spanish high speed railway adjacent to a vineyard.Interesting ways of furrowing and look at the colour of the soil.The foal,was just scathing it’s back with delightBusy coffee stop 51 + KM on the Camino !Vineyards began to multiply A mountain scape In praise of Estrella Galicia… Cheers!🍺A very noticeable demographic of this Camino - lots of teenagers, tattoos and Joie de vivre.Lambs deep in thought Caldas de Reis not far away Always a pleasure to be hereHot Springs of the Kings.
About 85 KM to Santiago de Compostela We started walking at 08.40 from the outskirts of Redondela. We had not gone very far when we came to a road on which was parked a tour bus right by the Camino. Out spilled a crowd of Turigrinos,probably from a cruise ship moored in nearby Vigo. They were all crisply dressed as if going to a Christening, rather than on a “ Camino Taster”. This group added to the large groups of Pelegrinos whose numbers are swelled by those joining from the central route. Thankfully, the numbers thinned out, especially after the first hill.A bit of a shock as they turned the corner and began an ascent of 145 metres followed by a tricky descent. Depending on where people started from, eg Lisbon or Porto, I noticed some walkers along the way with foot wear off, attending to blisters and one lady I had chatted to the other day, had an impromptu ice pack on her shoulder. Understandably distance and heat contributed to these growing occurrences.Occasional glimpses of the VIGO bridge across the RiaStones and boulders in places.I felt a twinge on one of my toes – empathy?
After descending the hill and coffee on the edge of Arcade, we crossed over a beautiful bridge with an interesting history.
Although the origins of the bridge are Roman, there are no traces remaining from this period. The current structure belongs to the Middle Ages. It is a long construction with ten arcades, between which there are breakwaters. On a historical note, the battle of Ponte Sampaio against the French in 1809 took place on this bridge. The beauty of the landscape at this point is outstanding, and it offers beautiful views of the Peneda del Viso and the estuary of the Verdugo river.
Breakwaters
I stood here thirteen years ago, main difference being the weather – it was pouring down and I was in a very primitive poncho. Thanks to Dave for taking the photo.Terrapins in a fountain dedicated to Santiago!A lot of Eucalyptus in GaliciaA break in the forestry and some vines thriving.Spot the frogs – the loud croaking could be heard 25 metres away!These three statues were incongruously placed in front of a childrens’ play area on the main road into Pontevedra.Graffiti on a pedestrian walkway towards our hotel for the night.Handy balcony for clothes drying.
The Horreos makes a fine background We all enjoyed the space an apartment givesOur Al fresco dinner and a memorable eveningWe shall miss our two sisters,Maggie and Anita – their first Camino which they are determined to finish hopefully next year .After waving our two Camigas good bye we’re on our way to Redondela .A famous local architect A show stopping mural brightening up the underpass.I kept checking the marker stones for 100 KM to go.An unusual shrubAfter over two hours walking we found coffee and Tomato Tostada in a lovely village called MosThe start of the hilly section – first real hills of the Camino.Climbing up was OK albeit warm work, but none of us had experienced a downhill gradient as tough as this one.That’s the Ria at the top of the photoEye catchingThe rustic suburbs of Redondela were very pleasant and I particularly liked this villa and its backdrop.Edge of the town Redondela has two of these impressive railway crossings.Casa Teresa our lodgings for the nightGarden terrace section The lounge VIEW FROM THE BEDROOM.Not sure if the pigeons have been having shooting practice or is she just a little sun ravaged
The train from Viana do Castelo to Caminha…Ticket €3.10 only This is a fantastic trail that starts in Caminha and extends to Valença, providing an ideal experience for hiking, biking, and running. This route represents the original variation of the Portuguese Coastal Way, moving away from the coast.
Ecopista – Caminho do Rio (River Trail) is an experience of contrasting landscapes that shows us a diverse reality and leads us through the memory of time to the relationship between Man and the Minho River, providing the full enjoyment of a ‘greenway’ that crosses Vila Nova de Cerveira and connects this territory to the municipalities of Valença and Caminha. The natural conditions along this route allow for the presence of various bird species such as the mallard, heron, cormorant, and kingfisher; mammals such as the otter and marten; amphibians such as the green frog, newt, and salamander; and fish such as the Iberian barbel, chub, and trout. It is due to its importance and natural diversity that the River Trail is integrated into the Natura 2000 Network and the Waterbird Protection Area of the Minho River estuary. Caminha StationEstuary at CaminhaSao Bento at Seixas – Coffee stopWalking on alongside the River MinhoCruceiro in front of a riverside villaChapel Between the fishermen’s housesLunch break at Cafe RioMountains in the distance Approaching Vila Nove de Cerveira With more sculptures to come as Vila Nova styles itself as a city of Arts.A new bridge crossing the Minho into Espana.State of the art recreational complex.Nearing our hotel.INATEL Cerveira hotelRECEPTIONDinner Menu – good value at €21.00 we thought.We were watching Aston Villa versus Frieburg in the Europa cup final from Istanbul. 3 – 0 to the Villa! Cheers and celebrationsRob brilliantly playing a medley including CONGRATULATIONS .
The next day after an other buffet…this time breakfast, we continued our way towards Valenca
Across the river at Lovelhe,looking at SpainSome shade at timesLeaving the Cerveira section of the EcoviaValenca in the distance Outskirts of Valenca and we were all desperate for a cafe…any cafe!Intermarche’s cafe was just the job and cheap as chips and who are you looking at?Anita entering the Forteleza.. A border town located on the banks of the Minho River, Valença is surrounded by walls and retains the characteristics of a 17th-18th century fortified city, designed in the style of the French architect Vauban. Its original name was “Contrasta,” meaning a town opposite another, due to its location across the Minho River from the Galician city of Tui. Today, it is a city with a thriving trade, particularly known for its highly valued local crafts.
I don”t know if towels and bargain packs of socks count as crafts but we didn’t come all this way for them!Crossing the INTERNATIONAL Bridge to Spain
HOTEL CRUCEIRO DO MONTE – A very friendly place for Thursday 21st night halt.
View from a little bar just down the road from the hotel .Perfect for APERITIVOS and tapas.
After breakfast and in the drizzle, our thinking was waterproofs, shortish walk to museums, and the like.Using the city map we went to the interpretative Centre for the Portuguese Camino .This is located in a 16 th century , former hospital.Our route on screen.Walk This WayCourtyard of the hospital A video presentation about the origins and development of Viana do Castelo.A fountain on the outside wall of the centre Still some mizzle as the say in the commentary box.The Cathedral An understated cathedral.Bowls of flowers outside the cathedral – everywhere in Viana we enjoyed floral displays ,like Esposende yesterday.A typical Rua The Statue of Viana is an 18th-century monument, commissioned in 1774 by José António Freire de Andrade, Governor of Arms of the province of Minho, 3rd Count of Bobadela. The Rococo-style statue depicts a female figure in flowing robes, holding a caravel, which dominates the entire ensemble, symbolizing Viana do Castelo and its maritime heritage. The four busts that crown the corners of the pedestal symbolize the European, Asian, African, and American continents, alluding to the “four corners of the world” and the seafaring and mercantile tradition of the people of Viana.The lengthy Jardim de MarginalAlways some tiles featuredThe Bandstand A grand gatewayAnother imposing entrance.Keep up next door!
Viana do Castelo railway station
Next to a shopping mall that we passed en route to the funicular.To get us up the mountain sideWonderful views.St LuziaDedicated to the Sacred Heart of JesusInformation BoardThere has been a funicular here since 1923 – that’s an original.Crossing over the railway station on the way back .Local elections- same kind of promises.Called in for a quick refresher The wall decoration opposite our Lift entrance on the second floor, based on the St Luzia rose windows.The aquarium in our restaurant A classic seafood meal together.Night or day, rain or shine , Viana do Castelo always casts its spell.
A short walk from the guest house brought us to the main square.SCULPTURESAND FLOWERS Welcome to breakfast A friendly venue and a table in the sunshine.San Roque featured in the Parish church and as we walked further on , being slightly inland from the Atlantic evoked a more Camino like atmosphere.What a gateway.Rob viewing the information boardSanto Amaro was a well loved figure here.Santiago is even more loved on the Camino.Moving through the Antas district we were on woodland paths and by now it was warm enough to walk in shirt sleeves or T- shirt – no ocean breeze but pleasant sunshine.Following the arrows we went left..We could hear the sound of the river before we saw it below us .Our crossing point – in winter times apparently the water can cover this bridge, but today there was no problem.Going right we began a gentle ascent.The ocean in view from Castelo do Neivo.Left again.Black and white goatsWe found a Rua that led us to coffeeImposing, modern sculpture by a local apparently Backcloth in the coffee shopPasta del Nata – it had a real depth too,it unlike the pale imitations we get at home.Another sighting of the Atlantic A gatherings of lilies in a cool,shady spot under a high wall.St James in his niche with colourful flowers.A close up.The oldest temple dedicated to Saint James outside of Spanish territory. It was consecrated by Bishop Naustus in the year 862, shortly after the discovery of the Apostle’s tomb.I think I prefer my poles to his wobbly looking stick!We are starting from the bottom..And upwards it was…Mike and Rob making their way upwards,however the next few hundred metres became tricky, as the path was strewn with rocks and boulders, so we took our time and gingerly picked our way through.Another impressive church towards the end of the climbSao Romao de Neiva – a place of particular devotion.Many penitents make their way up these steps on their knees- none of the passing Pelegrinos took up the challenge.A small vineyard in a clearing in the woods, as we walked on through small, sleepy hamlets featuring some hand some villas.And some strikingly coloured shrubs.The lanes sometimes featured crucifixes embedded in the walls.This was a surprise – a storks’ nest.Viana do Castelo and its environs The bridge over the Minho designed by Eiffel.Hotel Laranjeiro for two nights to enable a “ rest day” on Tuesday.
A colourful evening meat at Sancho Panza with flaming Portuguese/Brazilian Chorizo for starters – don’t try this at home!
Today’s Etape was long in prospect. Most of the group set off before 08.00 with the intention of walking the whole way, 16 miles or so,taking in breakfast en route. Rob and I felt that we would need to shorten the stretch by five miles. We found breakfast quite quickly and pleased to find somewhere open that early on a Sunday.
A modern cafe with an emphasis on whole food and coffee.Au revoir to the harbour setting. The parish church for whom the bells were tolling.We passed these three wise men as we walked through the suburbs.On the outskirts of Vila do Conde.Someone’s front garden. Vila do Conde seemed to merge into Povoa de Varzim.We walked further into P de V eventually reaching the Atlantic.These symbols were on a large square by the Tourist Office , where, having obtained a stamp for our pilgrim passports, Rob enquired of the very helpful lady there as to what they meant. She gave us a leaflet which explained the history of SIGLAS POVEIRAS…see below.
This helped our understanding and appreciation of the striking tile tableau depicting Povoa’s maritime history with an emphasis on the long established fishing industry.
After a lengthy study of these tiles we walked on.Along the esplanade.The view from our coffee stopLots of beaches and many protected dunes.Floribundas We came to St Andre where I stopped for refreshments thirteen years ago – expanded slightly now.Mementoes attached by passing pilgrims.Some hills in the distance.Several windmills along this part of the coastline. It was not long afterwards and adjacent to an unlikely setting for a golf course that we decided eleven miles was enough and Rob got an Uber, in no time at all, to take us to our accommodation in Esposende.Across from the Cavado River . We enjoyed our stay .
Started off through quiet streets , a contrast to Porto.
Crossing the swing bridge.On we goLighthouse ahead Wonderfully inviting beaches.Occasionally you came across a traffic island On the edge of Vila do CondeMost of the chapels are dedicated to Mary St of Fishermen A few more boardwalks And amzing beachesA contemporary hotel with a fascinating past. Located in the heart of Vila do Conde, at the intersection of the serene waters of the Ave River and the grandeur of the ocean, stands the hotel housed in the historic Santa Clara Monastery. Its uniqueness lies not only in its remarkable architecture, but also in its ability to combine historical legacy with contemporary comfort and sophistication. This magnificent building, with its neoclassical features and exquisite symmetry, is a testament to the passage of time and radiates an imposing presence. Its origins date back to 1318, the result of a dream of its founders; however, the Monastery as we know it today is the result of several renovation works that took place in the 18th century. View from the digsWe walk on through the town tomorrow.
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