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SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA – What shall we see ? Outstanding Universal Value

HISTORY – A BRIEF SYNTHESIS – Courtesy of UNESCO

Santiago de Compostela (Old Town) is located in Galicia, situated in the far north-west of Spain.

In the beginning of the 9th century, a hermit called Pelagius saw a mysterious light shining over a Roman tomb forgotten in the middle of a forest. Very soon, the incredible news spread all over the Christian world: the tomb of St. James the Greater, the beloved apostle of Jesus Christ, had been discovered in a far site near the finis terrae, the end of the known Earth, in the northwest of Iberian Peninsula. A few years later, this site became a famous pilgrimage town, one of the most important of Christianity. Pilgrims came from all over Europe following the Camino de Santiago to reach the city born around the Holy Tomb, exercising a great influence on the surrounding area. This is evidenced in the small towns, churches, hospitals, and monasteries that were built near the Camino to attend to the thousands of pilgrims who came to visit the tomb. This influence in the local architecture and art was especially strong and long-lasting in the north-west of Spain, but the fame and the reputation of the sanctuary of Santiago de Compostela went well beyond; Galicia was even known in the Nordic sagas as Jakobsland.

*Saint James as a Pilgrim with a Purse and a Staff*, 1440

This famous pilgrimage site also became a symbol in the Spanish Christians’ struggle against Islam. Destroyed by the Muslims at the end of the 10th century, it was completely rebuilt in the following century.

The Old Town of Santiago de Compostela, together with the outlying Santa Maria de Conxo Monastery, constitutes an extraordinary ensemble of distinguished monuments. The squares and narrow streets of the Old Town contain Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, and Neoclassicist buildings. This town is not only a harmonious and very well preserved historical city, but also a place deeply imbued with faith. The cathedral, considered as a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture, keeps the remarkable Pórtico de la Gloria, a jewel of the medieval sculpture. However, the authentic symbol of the city is the Baroque western façade of the cathedral, which forms one of the sides of the square of Obradoiro, one of the world´s most beautiful urban areas.

Tympanum and entrance of the Pórtico de la Gloria

The phenomenon of pilgrimage is not only a relevant historical fact, but also a continuous movement thanks to the celebration of the Holy Years.

Criterion (i): Around its cathedral, which is a world renowned masterpiece of Romanesque art, Santiago de Compostela conserves a valuable historic centre, known as one of Christianity´s greatest holy cities. All European cultural and artistic currents, from the Middle Ages to the present day, left extraordinary works of art in Santiago de Compostela.

Criterion (ii): During both the Romanesque and Baroque periods, the sanctuary of Santiago de Compostela exerted a decisive influence on the development of architecture and art, not only in Galicia, but also in the north of the Iberian Peninsula.

Criterion (vi): Santiago de Compostela is associated with one of the major themes of medieval history. From the shores of the North and Baltic Seas, thousands of pilgrims carrying the symbol of the scallop and the pilgrim’s staff walked, for centuries, to the Galician sanctuary along the paths of Santiago de Compostela, veritable roads of the Faith.

Integrity

The property encompasses 108 ha, with a 217 ha buffer zone. Santiago de Compostela shows a remarkable state of conservation, largely due to conservation policies that have preserved the integrity of monuments and buildings that form the civil and religious architectural ensemble. Elements from the Middle Ages are integrated with those from the Renaissance, as well as the constructions from the 17th and 18th centuries into a high-quality urban fabric. The Old Town is a liveable and lively place where inhabitants and business coexist with tourism. The urban development has respected natural spaces where the green Galician fields join the historical city. In this respect, the property integrates the urban ensemble, historical oakwoods and open green spaces.

Authenticity

Throughout its history, Santiago de Compostela has received different influences, and the Old Town has integrated these different styles and currents with local traditions. The result of this mixture is a city where the original Galician architecture, with its typical wooden galleries and traditional materials, like stone, wood, or iron, combines with great monuments that constitute a splendid tour across the history of European and universal art.

Protection and management requirements

The conservation of Santiago de Compostela is the responsibility of the Consortium of Santiago de Compostela, created in 1991 and integrated by the national, regional, and local public administrations, as well as the archbishopric and the University. From its creation, the Consortium has carried out important works of restoration of monuments and public spaces, and has subsidized and implemented rehabilitation projects, both for housing and business premises in order to preserve the traditional activities of the historical centre. It also supports conservation actions carried out by the Town Hall of the city and the autonomous government of Galicia.

The regulatory framework that allows for conservation and management action is prescribed in the Special Plan for the Protection and Rehabilitation of the City of Santiago de Compostela.

In terms of management challenges, Santiago de Compostela is facing the pressures of mass tourism, which produces overcrowding around the cathedral and provokes changes in traditional commercial activities. Actions have been undertaken towards diversifying the touristic offer and diverting visitor flows to the suburbs of the city, such as with the construction of the City of the Culture of Galicia, a modern complex constructed by the Regional Government on Mount Gaias, in the proximity of the historical centre of Santiago de Compostela. In the future, adaptive changes will need to be foreseen in the Special Plan for the Protection and Rehabilitation of the City of Santiago de Compostela to preserve the traditional commercial activities in the Old Town, and to support the policies of conservation of buildings and monuments, as well as the recovery of degraded spaces.

A PERSONAL VIEW

Having been fortunate enough to spend time in the city at the completion of many Caminos, I still look forward to my time there,however short. For me, the highlights are obviously the Cathedral, but equally rewarding is to sit the Plaza Obradoiro and enjoy the reactions of Pelegrinos as they arrive; many for the first time and many who have walked, for example,from the Pyrenees continuously over several weeks.

On foot,by bike and by wheelchair – solo or in groups.

My recommendations are as follows and not in any hierarchical order.

The Pilgrims Office – Get there before 09.00 – to get your Compostela
Rúa das Carretas, 33, 15705 Santiago de Compostela.

Take your pilgrim Passport – make sure you have dated all the Sellos

Manned by volunteers with a varied knowledge of Latin!

It is a well organised process- you only pay for your tube to keep the Compostela safe on the flight home.

**Museo das Peregrinacions e de Santiago**
The museum is divided into three floors and pays tribute to Saint James and the pilgrims who come to visit.

It is a monographic museum that highlights the importance of the cult of Saint James and the pilgrimage routes to his tomb since the High Middle Ages, especially in Europe. Images, objects and documents are exhibited on several floors, in which visitors can learn about the origin of the cult of Saint James, the beginning and development of pilgrimage, the gradual configuration of the various routes and of Santiago de Compostela and the influence of the pilgrimage on the artistic development of the city’s craft guilds. Free entry on production of your Pilgrim Passport.

https://museodopobo.gal/en
The museum was opened in 1976 and is located in the former convent of **Santo Domingo de Bonaval.**

The pieces on display help to understand the different aspects that define Galician culture. It has different rooms dedicated to aspects such as the sea, trades, the countryside, built space, traditional Galician society and daily life, as well as sections on clothing and music. And a wonderful stairway. Admission €5.00

**Mercardo de Abastos** – 2nd most popular spot.
Surpassed only by the Cathedral. Located in the heart of the Old Town, it has served as the city’s primary fresh food hub since 1873. The current granite structure, built in 1941, features eight parallel halls filled with approximately 80 stalls selling everything from Atlantic seafood and Galician meats to local cheeses and wine.

Flagging? My favourite place for refreshments…and there are many cafes to choose from…is in a hotel garden.

**Hotel Costa Vella.**
The first hotel of its kind for Santiago when it opened in 1999, the Costa Vella inhabits a beautiful listed house carefully refurbished to preserve its original Galician character.
The hotel is tucked into the northern edge of Santiago‘s dazzling Old Town and there’s always a buzzy local atmosphere, with compostelanos popping in and out of the café. Pretty stone streets lead to grand Praza do Obradoiro – home to Santiago’s magnificent Cathedral and 16th-century Hostal dos Reis Católicos – in under 10 minutes. The lively Mercado de Abastos, with its exceptional food offerings, is a 10-minute stroll away.

I never leave S de C without buying souvenirs. Go on be a Turigrino 🤭….

In Santiago de Compostela, **Orujo** is a traditional Galician pomace brandy made from the remains of grapes after wine production. Often called “firewater” (*aguardiente*), it is typically served as a digestif after meals.
**Orujo Blanco**: The pure, transparent spirit, typically over 40% alcohol.
**Licor de Hierbas**: An herbal version made by macerating various plants (like rosemary or thyme) in the spirit.
**Licor Café**: A local favorite made with roasted coffee beans, often paired with Tarta de Santiago.
**Crema de Orujo**: A smooth, creamy liqueur similar to Irish cream, often from famous local brands like **Ruavieja**, which is based in Santiago.

**Doña Camiseta** – one of many souvenir shops

I never leave Santiago without one!

And a distance magnet for the fridge in the kitchen – I like to get one with the year included.

I’d like one of those for the rucksack,too.

TWO BASIC AND MORE ORTHODOX GUIDES TO Santiago de Compostela:

https://www.spain.info/en/destination/santiago-compostela/

https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.pilgrimagetraveler.com/walking-tour.html&sa=U&ved=2ahUKEwi6qpfIy-qTAxXQXUEAHc2HJsEQFnoECG8QAQ&usg=AOvVaw3ObXCJhY5CiLlL5SuvZu-J

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PADRON TO SANTIAGO de COMPOSTELA THE FINAL STAGE – CAMINO PORTUGUES

3 Apr

It is purely coincidental that I find myself putting together a preview of the final stage of our Camino Portuguese on Good Friday,2026.Pelegrinos often have mixed feelings about the final day on their Camino – mixture of highs and lows – a sense of the accomplishment of a goal and a sadness that it is all over. It was whilst thinking of this ambivalence that I was led to remembering the significance of another pilgrimage in another land – the Via Dolorosa – in another holy city,Jerusalem.

Not a pilgrimage I shall be able to undertake in all conscience,now.

The **Via Dolorosa** (Latin for “Way of Suffering” or “Sorrowful Way”) is a processional route in the Old City of Jerusalem believed to be the path Jesus walked to his crucifixion. It spans about 600 metres from the Antonia Fortress to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, marked by 14 Stations of the Cross – a sorrowful day remembered on “ Good Friday”- another juxtaposition.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=uph_1gDITUY&si=1VvvC55cpJWbw69U SORROW by Pink Floyd

**Back to our final Etape on the Camino Portuguese.**
Leaving Padrón for Santiago de Compostela is the final, emotional stage of the Portuguese Camino (approx. 24–26 km), characterized by a steady climb through rural hamlets, eucalyptus forests, and eventually, the urban outskirts of Santiago. The route passes through Iria Flavia, A Escravitude, and O Milladoiro before reaching the cathedral.

We follow the arrows along the tree-lined Rúa Castelao, making your way out of town. With the river on our left, we then pass the bus station , with regular services to S de C. Next, we cross a tributary of the Sar and the inevitable N550, to be met again, don’t doubt it! Along the rail line we soon enter an ancient place.

**ria Flavia** is an ancient settlement in the municipality of **Padrón**, Galicia, Spain, most famous for its historic church, **Santa María a Maior de Iria Flavia**. A major centre of Marian devotion in its time,with a long history .

A literary place, the cradle of illustrious authors. The Nobel Prize-winner for Literature Camilo José Cela was born here, more specifically in the former House of the Canons (18^th c.), where his Foundation is located. Nearby is the Rosalía de Castro House Museum, the poetess’ last residence and the place where she died.

There was a diversion here to prevent you crossing the railway line – supposedly safer that the N550 – I walked along the railway way back on my solo Camino – but we should cross under the railway and recross the main road where on the next rotunda is located the Cafe O Camino Portugues- worth a stop for the Sello. At a garage, Talleres Casal, we turn left to walk through a series of small hamlets.

Horreos and vineyards en route through Meixida.

**E ESCRAVITUDE**
Famous for its stunning baroque sanctuary, the **Santuario da Nosa Señora da Escravitude**. It is a key landmark for pilgrims walking the **Camino de Santiago** (Portuguese Way), located approximately 5 km from Padrón’s historic centre.

It is worth highlighting the fountain that is under its impressive stairway, which tells an interesting and **miraculous story**.
It is about an ill man that was travelling along the Way of St. James in the hope of being healed of his dropsy. He stopped at the fountain to have a drink and was miraculously cured without seeing a doctor 72 hours later. He then said, “Thank you, Our Lady, for taking away the ailment”.
This then became the story that gave origin to this sanctuary, and which ultimately began the construction of this structure thanks to an xx cart that the pilgrim donated for his gratitude. The project was completed in 1886.

*Please note that Cerveza Estrella Galicia does not claim to have such a miraculous effect.*

We leave by a small park at the side of the sanctuary along a steep lane,passing Sta.Maria de Cruces and a picnic descanso,then going left through pine woods,keeping a careful watch for signage as we pass a sign for the incongruous Hong Kong B&B, arriving at Picarana, where there is a choice of cafes,etc albeit opposite an industrial estate.

Then to the village of Faramello.

THE CRUCEIRO OF RÚA DE FRANCOS
In the town of Rúa de Francos (teo municipality), on Camiño Portugués, we will find a Gothic cross, considered one of the oldest in Galicia, next to the carballeira de San Martiño and its famous cabalar fairs. A cross stands on a rock that emerges from the surface and on which several bowls were engraved. It lacks a base and capital, and its shaft is reminiscent of the small columns of popular construction.

The way begins a gradual climb as we make our way towards Milladoiro, which is a rather exclusive, relatively new residential suburb of Santiago and where there is a choice of the traditional and a complementary way .We should ignore the detour to Castro Lupario.

The Milladoiro Mercadona – when taking SC Ramblers on this Camino a few years back, a misheard phone call, I made to a group member who was a little way behind, led to an amusing spot of confusion about directions.More another time.

*A Magdalena chapel.*
There is not much to see in O Milladoiro, apart from this chapel. A few years ago, O Milladoiro was just a small **aldea** (village). But high housing prices in Santiago pushed many (young people, mainly) out, looking for more affordable options. O Milladoiro is quite close and well connected through the N-550 road, so it has experienced tremendous growth. If anyone is feeling tired or whatever, there is an opportunity to take a bus or taxi into S de C.
The stage between O Milladoiro and Santiago de Compostela is the shortest and for some the most emotional day of the entire Coastal Camino Portugués. At just 6 kilometres, we can take our time and savour every step that brings us closer to the goal.

The path leaves O Milladoiro and descends gently through a landscape alternating between residential areas and small parks and green spaces. As it approaches Santiago, the atmosphere becomes more urban but also more exciting: yellow arrows and scallop shells mark the way with increasing frequency.

It was *built in the 12th century on the outskirts of the city*.
**Colegiata de Santa María a Real do Sar**(Collegiate Church of Saint Mary of Sar) is a renowned 12th-century Romanesque church located in Santiago de Compostela, Spain, known for its unique, leaning architecture and historic cloister.
Santiago is entered through the Sar neighbourhood, where the beautiful Collegiate Church of Santa María del Sar stands, with its characteristic leaning buttresses, a Romanesque gem deserving a brief stop. From here, the path enters the city streets, passing through parks and tree-lined avenues.

The climactic moment arrives when the pilgrim enters the monumental zone. The cobbled streets of the historic centre, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, lead inevitably towards the Plaza del Obradoiro. The first sight of the Cathedral’s baroque facade is a moment of profound emotion that justifies every effort of the journey.

The Chapel of Our Lady of the Pillar in Santiago de Compostela is a prominent Baroque church (17th-18th centuries) located in the Alameda Park, near the Paseo da Ferradura. With a Latin cross floor plan, it is known for its granite architecture and serene setting, and is often visited by pilgrims before reaching the Cathedral.

The
**Praza do Obradoiro** is the main square of Santiago de Compostela and the final destination for thousands of pilgrims completing the Way of Saint James (Camino de Santiago). Its name, which means “Square of the Workshop,” refers to the stonecutters’ workshops that occupied the space during the construction of the cathedral’s Baroque facade. It is always rewarding to have a group photo here and to take time to sit and watch the arrival of Pelegrinos from the whole variety of Caminos leading to here.

THE CATHEDRAL. In his guidebook,John Brierley makes the following observations :- Take time to “arrive”. We each feel different emotions on arriving at our destination after …physical,emotional and spiritual challenges. Entering the Cathedral can bring tears of joy…or disappointment. Whatever our individual reaction it is absolutely valid in the moment so honour it. Gratitude for our safe arrival is a universally appropriate response…”

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=fR4HjTH_fTM&si=zsMBZ7mpHa6H-wWF LONG AND WINDING ROAD – The Beatles

An eight minute walk to our accommodation at Hotel Universal, Praza de Galicia.

I stayed here in 2004 after my first Camino – it’s had a facelift since then.

Room with A View
UNIVERSAL HOTEL STAY REVIEW
“The hotel is perfectly located right in the city center. There’s a public parking lot directly in front of the hotel. The best thing about the hotel is the staff; they are all incredibly friendly and attentive, making sure you have everything you need during your stay. The breakfast is decent, with a good buffet.”

Next up will be the City itself.

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THREE DAY BREAK WITH THE FAMILY ON THE DEVON / CORNWALL BORDER

31 Mar

Sunny skies on arrival in Lifton. View from our bedroom window in The Old Manor House

Saturday 28th March. We set off towards West Devon along the M5 and enjoyed a comfortable journey albeit being the weekend. Leaving the motorway we had a fast and pleasant stretch along the A30 to the village of Lifton. Lifton’s appeal lies in its unspoiled rural charm and connection to Devon’s agricultural roots. The village has a long history that dates back to Saxon times, and its peaceful streets are lined with thatched cottages and historic buildings. Surrounded by rolling hills, farmland, and rivers,

Lifton is also famous for being the home of the renowned Devon-based food producer Ambrosia, known for its custard and rice pudding. I have loved rice pudding since I was a child. I have never made it on this scale though!

Parish church – immediately behind the house.

With the grandchildren stretching their legs and happily playing football and cricket in the garden, Vickee,Tom,Barbara and I set off with Ted the dog to explore some of the locality.

Uphill for a time – plentiful footpaths nearby .

We were soon on the banks of one of the tributaries of the River Tamar.

I think he got the wrong end of the stick at this point.

The girls relaxing in style in the hot tub.

Pre dinner games and Nell looking the part.

It had been a really enjoyable first day away together.

Sunday morning and a trip to the very handily situated village shop to get the paper.

And two trays of very healthy Geranium plugs.

We had a look inside St Mary’s, fortunately open on Sundays!

Barbara and I then set off then for nearby Launceston, the former county town of Cornwall.

Launceston is an ancient market town that was once one of the most important in the southwest. It is known as the ‘gateway to Cornwall’, due to the A30 running very close by (the road used to go through the town itself). Being Sunday, there were few shops open – mainly charity shops – but we did find a great cafe with a difference.

A dedicated “music cafe” and a classic record shop.
**Keep Audio Co – The Music Cafe**: This is the town’s primary hybrid venue, described as a “music cafe” where you can browse and buy new and used vinyl and CDs while enjoying coffee and homemade cake.Includes a **cosy concert room** for live music events and a “Blues Jam” on certain Sundays.
Casual and dog-friendly, with a “great, chilled vibe” and vintage hi-fi equipment for sale.

The strikingly impressive St Mary Magdalene church – sadly not open.

There were a couple of pedestrianised streets but nothing much to see. If you decide to visit Launceston…don’t go on a Sunday!

Sunday afternoon and we set off en famille to a local National Trust site of scientific and an historical interest.

Ted got a look in with the family…of course.

Flo managed to wedge a Penny in to this section.

Dan took us back to back along the now disused railway.

Nelly’s Spaghetti Carbonara was greatly appreciated by the children as was Dan’s Pork En Croute by us adults a little later.

Monday morning dawned brightly and after a leisurely breakfast we all set off for a trip to the Atlantic Ocean.

A huge stretch of sand,rock pools and a kickabout.

Lunch at the Widemouth beach cafe – pasties, loaded chips and sausage butties were favourites and Barbara enjoyed her all time favourite…A homemade cheese scone.

The tide was coming in as we returned to the car park.

A very bracing seascape and an enjoyable few hours.

On return,Tom got to work on dinner – locally sourced.

Jake in a great replica shirt – I WANT ONE!

Tom’s homemade pizzas went down well for tea.

Tom cooked up a really special Lamb dish for our evening meal,too.

Tuesday,31st March – some clearing up to do – all hands to the pump. Then homeward bound. It has been a memorable and really enjoyable three days.

PS The children spotted a pheasant’s nest in the garden. That’s a first!

**PPS** Sunny coffee stop at Gloucester Farm Shop service station on the M5 – it felt quite Continental.

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PORTUGUESE CAMINO PREVIEW FROM CALDAS DES REI TO PADRON,19 KM 26/05/26 PENULTIMATE STAGE TO S de C

30 Mar

“We are all just walking each other home.”

This is a pleasant stage along small roads and woodland paths through valleys,before following the River Sar into the historic town of Padron.

“ The stage between Caldas de Reis to Padron is what I call the Eve of the End; the final full day before reaching Santiago de Compostela.” – FROM “ THEN WE WALKED”.

Leaving Caldas, we follow the Calle Real, the Royal Road towards Padron.

We take this road to the Puente Romano del Río Bermaña.

The Bermaña Bridge is a granite stonework bridge originated during the Roman era that dates back to the 1st century. It is formed by three semicircular arches and triangular starlings. It was a part of an old Roman military path that used to go through Aquis Celenis. It is one of the most beautiful areas of the village.

Walking on, we shall pass the 16th-century Capela de San Roque, which is also thought to have been built on the site of an earlier religious structure. San Roque (Saint Roch) is considered a protector against plagues and illnesses.

Quiet countryside then under the viaduct towards Carracedo and a possible coffee stop at Cafe Esperon

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=ObYbVQ1SJtc&si=dtGDt1XRKaiKlxJJ “ High on the Skyline” by the New Mendicants.

**Iglesia Santa Marina de Carracedo**
Its origins aren’t entirely clear but the church is striking with large palm trees and some interesting wooden sculpture in the grounds.
We cross the beloved N-550, past an automatic kiosk on a gravel path parallel to the Motorway AP-9 which we cross by a bridge eventually entering woodland upto Valga/ O Pino.

Bar/Restaurant *Los Camioneros* - it sounds so much better than a “truckers’ bar.”Rather like Los Jubilados sounds better than “ the retired”!

At 160 M, this is the high point of the stage from whence we descend along a woodlands path to the next village.

**San Miguel de Valga –**
San Miguel de Valga is part of the wider Valga municipality, in an area rich in history. The earliest evidence of human habitation dates back to the Bronze Age, with artifacts now preserved in San Miguel de Valga.
The Celtic tribes thrived here between the 6th century BC and the 2nd century AD, leaving behind fortifications and settlements.

From here we pass through small hamlets of Fontelo,Confide and Infesta . The Camino is well sign posted .

At Pontecesures we cross the River Ulla which separates the province of Pontevedra from A Coruna. We turn off the main road along a quiet lane along the banks of the River Sar.

**Igreja de Santiago**,Padron where this stage officially ends and our accommodation for the evening is *O Parrandeiro* ,which is close by.
“Perfect location right on the Camino. Very comfortable for our group of 7. Close to everything! The host was amazing” Recent review.

PADRON
**Traditionally, this town’s history is linked to that of the apostle Santiago (St. James)**

Situated just 22 kilometres from Santiago de Compostela, this town’s origins are linked to Iría Flavia. This was the Roman city to which the apostle Santiago’s remains were brought from Jerusalem. Its countryside, gastronomy and historic heritage are the main attractions for tourists, although the town is perhaps best known as the home of two important writers: poet Rosalía de Castro and Nobel literature prize winner, Camilo José Cela. In fact, in this town you will find the Rosalía de Castro House-Museum and the Camilo José Cela Foundation.

https://www.padronturismo.gal/en/for-discovering/ Some highlights.

There’s a lot more to Padron than its famous peppers.
Padrón is closely linked to the Way of St. James and the Apostle James. According to tradition, it was in this region that St. James the Greater preached the Good News. Due to this, after he died in Jaffa, Palestine, his body was brought here by two of his disciples, Theodore and Athanasius. After a long voyage accompanying the Apostle’s body, they came to the Port of Murgadán, Iria Flava, where they moored their boat to a Roman altar stone in the Sar River. The stone, which is called the “Pedrón,” is now located under the main altar of the Church of Santiago.

Padrón thereby became the “Cradle of the Way of St. James,” as demonstrated by the existence of several heritage sites in the municipal district.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=DCPVSyFBfoE&si=j5W19YL_O1265UoI

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CAMINO PORTUGUESE IN GALICIA PONTEVEDRA TO CALDAS DE REI 23 KM A PREVIEW OF WALK Monday,25/05/2026

23 Mar

No inclines of any consequence. One third of this stage is along natural pathways through woodland and river valleys. There is plentiful shade, several drinking fonts and the cafe infrastructure is much improved. Some criss-crossing the N-550 on short well signed stretches and on reaching Caldas de Rei, the famous Fuente de las Burgas XIX,where the hot springs issue forth – H & S regulations now prohibit bathing tired feet – a change since I was there last.

The way out from Pontevedra is way marked from the Praza Pelegrina, emerging eventually on the waterfront of the Rio Lerez.

A view of the bridge from where we head through the suburbs, eventually to a bird and wetland sanctuary – Marismas de Alba. Slightly further on we approach an increasingly popular “*variant*.”

**The Camino Spiritual Variant Signpost**
Located approximately **3 km (2 miles) north of Pontevedra**, this signpost is a critical waypoint for pilgrims choosing to deviate from the main Central Route.
**Visual Appearance**: The turn-off is marked by a large information board on the left-hand side of the path. Along the route itself, you will find specific wooden signposts topped with a **silver arrow** and a **scallop shell with a St. James cross**.
**What it Indicates**: It marks the start of a three-day, ~74 km detour that follows the historical maritime path used to transport the remains of St. James to Santiago.

The main route turns right under a railway bridge, through Pontecabras to a church.

IGLESIA SANTA de MARIA de ALBA. C12th Portal.
At first glance, it may seem like just another church along the Camino, but we may wish to take a little detour here and go treasure hunting
While much of the current structure dates to the 18th century, its history stretches back to the Middle Ages. On the north side of the church, near the bell tower, you’ll find an epigraph carved into a single stone, which hints at a more ancient past.
The inscription mentions Diego, Bishop of Compostela, and an abbot named Peter. Scholars debate its exact meaning, with some suggesting it could date as far back as the 10th century. Either way, it’s an intriguing find and worth a minute or two exploring.
Just beyond the church you’ll also find the Cruceiro de Santa María de Alba, one of the many Galician stone crosses. These cruceiros are often found at crossroads, churchyards, or other prominent locations. They act as markers of faith, offering protection to travellers and serving as waypoints; perhaps the Middle Ages version of our yellow arrows.

Pilgrim Monument.

*Saint James on a historic cross outside the Iglesia de Santa María de Alba*

The route continues passing close by two cafes, Bubela and A Canota. Then a pleasant stretch that runs alongside the rail line through dense woodlands.

The next landmark is in the hamlet of San Amaro and turning left we go downhill walking eventually along a dirt track to Valbon.8

From here we reach the cross-cross part along the N-550; we follow the the yellow fleches, directing us on and off the highway ( onto safer roads ).

We then come to Briallos

The parish of Briallos, officially known as San Cristovo de Briallos, is one of the smallest in the region, covering just a few square kilometres; the name itself is thought to have Celtic origins. The Church of San Cristovo de Briallos dates back to the 15th century and is notable for its baroque-style altarpiece and bell tower.

As we walk today, we shall pass rows and rows of vines supported by sturdy granite poles. This traditional system, known as emparrado, is a distinctive feature of Galicia. The elevated trellises help vines thrive in the area’s rainy, humid climate. The height improves air circulation, reducing the risk of fungal diseases, while ensuring the grapes receive the sunlight needed to ripen.
The granite poles, abundant in this rocky region, are also resistant to the elements; and they’ve supported Galicia’s famous Albariño vines for generations.
This is unmistakably wine country, with rows of vines supported by the iconic granite poles. The region is part of the Rías Baixas *Denomination of Origin* (DO) and is particularly celebrated for its Albariño white wines.

After walking through the tiny hamlet of Tivo, passing a fountain and a Cruceiro, we are back on the N -550 and will soon cross over the river Umia into Caldas de Reis. There is a renowned Taberna here ,where I have had dinner twice over the years.

Near to our accommodation- CASA da ALFONDEGA – apartment.

Ratings about Casa Da Alfóndega
9.8
Excellent
Based on **141 reviews**

CALDAS de REIS

In the evening,there may not be evensong in the parish church but there will certainly be birdsong.

Another famous church

The Church of St Thomas A Beckett. Rare to find a church dedicated to this famous English saint in Spain, but it is believed he made the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela

**Caldas de Reis** is a small corner of Galicia famous for its thermal baths. The water, famous for its healing properties, offers relief for the body and spirit for those who come to visit. These waters are **Caldas de Reis’ most precious resource and the driving force behind its development**. The history of Caldas de Reis goes back to several centuries, being numerous cultures that have inhabited this corner of Galicia. People like the Cilenos, the Galaicos or the Celts already inhabited these lands before the arrival of the Romans. From this period is the famous Tesouro de Caldas de Reis found in 1940 and that according to studies is preserved from the Bronze Age. But it was not until the arrival of the Romans that this town experienced its true commercial and cultural explosion. Today the main attractions of the city date from this period.

Termalismo

The locality has waters with highly curative properties, which belong to the group of hyperthermal waters. They are very suitable for treating respiratory tract disorders, rheumatism, skin problems and gynecological and surgical conditions.

The public spring of Las Burgas is suitable for hydropinic, a treatment characterized by ingesting water orally, often for therapeutic purposes.

It should be noted that the thermal village is home to two spas, the Acuña Spa, which is located in a building typical of the Galician style of the twentieth century, and the Dávila Spa, which has a wonderful reedbed populated with bamboo canes very unique.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=ut_KOPe7Oyg&si=Qq7LIQT_U86rJlbs

“ Healing Waters” by Michelle Tumes :-

I’ve built a bridge
All of my strength cannot cross over
I stand at the edge
The end of a road that I have followed
Sinking from the weight of my own world
Wanting the waves of Your ways to wash my feet

Healing waters
Healing waters
Solace flows through the river of forgiveness to my soul
Oh, I need You
Healing waters

**Church of Santa Maria**
Built after the original was destroyed in the period of Almanzor, throughout its history, this church has undergone several modifications. It features a beautiful cover of the twelfth century, and the chapels of San Diego and Del Carmen dating from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.

**Botanical Garden and “carballeira”.**
This beautiful place, dating back to the 14th century, is connected to the thermal culture of Caldas de Reis. It showcases different species of plants from the 5 continents. Besides, it highlights its collection of Camellias and its beautiful oak trees located parallel to the river.

**“It is your road, and yours alone. Others may walk with you, but no one can walk it for you”**

44.7 KM TO SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA – TO GO…

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REDONDELA TO PONTEVEDRA May 2026 A PREVIEW OF THIS STAGE – 20 KM ON THE PORTUGUESE CAMINO

16 Mar

A couple of ups and downs. We shall probably notice an increase in the number of Pelegrinos as Redondela is where the Coastal Camino rejoins the central route.

Ponte Sampaio en route later in the day.

Rather than walk from Casa Teresa ( our accommodation) along the busy N550 to Cesantes, we shall cut slightly inland to pick up the Camino coming northbound from Redondela, eventually on Rua Torre de Calle, going uphill across a bridge over railway tracks, then immediately left on to the cobbled Camino Real de Cesantes and downhill, passing ( or not ) Cafe/Pension Rustica Jumboli.

We shall be climbing uphill now and will traverse around the O Viso peak. Along the way you pass an installation of shells.From here it is downhill again to the N550. We should take care crossing here. At the entrance to Arcade, the camino turns left rather unnecessarily. It will cross back over the N550 in a few hundred metres, taking us past the albergues and shops of Arcade.

If Oysters are your thing then this the place; it’s famous for them.

**Puente de Pontesampaio** –
This remarkable ten-arch bridge that connects the municipalities of Pontevedra and Soutomaior was where the last battle against Napoleon’s army in Galicia was fought. It happened during the Independence War, on the 7th and 8th of June 1809, and it was then when the VI Corps of the Grande Armée under the command of Marshal Michel Ney, Duke of Elchingen, were permanently defeated, thus ending the French occupation in Galicia. The bridge, of medieval origin, gives its name to the Pontevedra parish of Ponte Sampaio, located in the Verdugo River estuary, in the Ría de Vigo. The battle fought here was preceded by the uprising in Vigo and the expulsion of the invading French troops led by General Chalot.

There is the pleasantly situated Cafe A Romana at the end of the bridge. I remember sheltering there from the rain!

Hopefully the weather will be as above. The way branches off steeply to the left,passing the Cruceiro de Ballota, winding along before crossing the main road.

Leaving Alto da Canicouva we turn right onto a forest track going downhill,passing logging areas, fields and grapevines

We have now reached the Pontevedra municipality of Vilaboa and shortly afterwards a choice of two ways into Pontevedra. There is the option to follow the traditional route into Pontevedra by the busy N550 or the Senda Fluvial Rio dos Gafos, turning left off the N550 at the sign for Ponte Rebon – basically following the river to the outskirts of Pontevedra – it is recommended except after heavy rainfall.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=EMXTMMwx2_M&si=seGTBkWGfpRYC3rH MOONLIGHT MEADOW – “ Birdsong”.

We walk into Pontevedra, passing a pilgrim’s Hostal , the bus and railway stations turning left up Rua Eduardo Pondial and at an island with” como en casa “ ( a take away ),on our left we branch right to our accommodation for the night, which is on a pedestrianised street,
Rúa da Virxe do Camiño,

**HOTEL Virgen del Camino** “We stayed here while doing the Camino and found it a good stop for the night. It was right on the way. The room was spacious.” REVIEW,November 2025

“The city of Pontevedra on the last section of the Portuguese Way is home to an elegant old town. Sitting pretty in the heart of the ‘ría’ of the same name, Pontevedra has been shaped by a rich maritime and trading past. “ The old town is mainly car-free and open to pedestrians only, it is easy to wander around its old granite streets and admire the elegant buildings.
Many of the lively squares and streets in Pontevedra’s Old Town take their name after guilds or trades, a tradition dating back to the Middle Ages. This includes the lovely and quintessentially Galician ‘Praza da Leña’, the firewood square; the Praza da Verdura, the vegetables square; and the Praza da Ferrería, the blacksmith square. In the firewood square you will find a classic ‘cruceiro’, elegant houses with granite arches.

The
**Old Town of Pontevedra** (*Zona Vella*) is one of the most beautiful and best-preserved medieval centres in Spain, second in Galicia only to Santiago de Compostela. Declared a historic-artistic complex in 1951, it is world-renowned for its revolutionary **car-free urban model**, making the entire district a quiet, pedestrian-only haven of granite-paved streets and bustling squares.

Regarded as a *CAMINO MUST VISIT –*
**A Peregrina Church,** as its name suggests, has a lot to do with the Camino de Santiago. It is dedicated to the Pilgrim Virgin, who was the one who guided the walkers who came from Baiona to Santiago. She is the patron saint of Pontevedra and the Portuguese Way.
It was built in the 18th century, halfway between the Baroque and the Neoclassical. The first thing that catches your attention is its half-rounded façade, why is it? As it turns out that the plant is inspired by a scallop shell, this church could not be more pilgrimage! All the details are related to the pilgrimage. Even the baptismal font is a giant shell donated by Méndez Núñez, who brought it back from one of his exotic trips.

FROM TODAY’S PORTUGUESE CAMINO FORUM

“I find it fascinating how the Camino allows opportunities to connect with strangers even when I’m not even ON the Camino. In a training walk for my first Camino in my beautiful city of Victoria, Canada, I see a man with a back pack with the infamous Camino shell symbol attached to it. From a simple greeting and Camino-connection, we walk the last 45 minutes of my 10 mile walk together. This man, I learn, is 80 years old. On our walk, he shares stories of his adventures on the different Pilgrim treks, his family and beloved wife who passed ten years ago. At 80 he is training for his 40 day, 1000k, Trek starting in France (I think). I don’t know if it is the sun shining along our oceanside walk, or the easy flow of conversation but he brings to life what I’ve only read about the Camino and that I hope to experience in my September pilgrimage. He reiterates the joy he has experienced from meeting the many pilgrims over his numerous treks, and how he feels his life’s journey is still unfolding at 80. I can hear his authenticity when he reflects how wonderful pilgrims are on their Camino, and in a world that feels upside down for many at this time, I am in awe how magical the Camino is – and I haven’t walked it. Yet.”

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PREVIEW-O PORRINO TO REDONDELA 16.5 KM ON THE PORTUGUESE CENTRAL CAMINO + 2.2 KM further to Casa Teresa

9 Mar

A couple of hills; the descents more strenuous than the climbs but we shall take it in our stride after so many days on the Camino.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=D1Fw6CbGAX4&si=S2UXkTary-Z5V4NZ “ Running Up That Hill” Kate Bush,

We pass this improbable wall of tyres shortly after leaving O Porrino signifying 100 KM to S de C.

An
**hórreo** is a traditional granary used for drying and storing crops, primarily corn and grain. They are iconic symbols of the rural landscape in North Western Spain.

Some wealthy folks have them in their gardens.

We soon reach MOS – the Pazo was originally the residence of the Marquis De Mos. At least two cafes to choose from,for Coffee and/or a second breakfast.
Mos is situated directly at the crossroads of Caminos between Vigo and the industrial area of **O Porriño**.
It has more than 15,000 inhabitants and consequently has a multitude of services to offer walkers.

It is a pleasant walk through woodland to the highest point – Alto Cornedo 235 KM.Pine and eucalyptus woods are an important feature of this stretch of the route. This section ends at the legendary Chan das Pipas.

Chan das Pipas
is a well-known plateau and forested area located in the municipality of **Redondela**, Spain, specifically within the parish of **Saxamonde**. It is a significant landmark on the **Portuguese Way.**
It marks the highest point of the stage between **O Porriño** and **Redondela**.

It offers some of the first sweeping views over the **Ría de Vigo**estuary for pilgrims heading north.

We follow small,country lanes,some with sharp descent. Then along camino Romano passing Cafe and Albergue Corisco

It is a highly-rated hostel and cafe-bar located directly on the **Camino Portugués** near Redondela,. It is frequently praised by pilgrims as a “hidden gem” with an excellent menu.

Those boots aren’t made for walking…bur soon we shall arrive I Redondela.

Redondela is the next major town after O’Porrino on the Portuguese Camino de Santiago. With its privileged position close to the Vigo estuary, the origins of Redondela date back to the Bronze Age, as attested by the numerous remains showing the town’s link to the celtic culture.
Redondela has played a long role in the Portuguese Camino de Santiago as a place for pilgrims to stay as the town is at the end of a Camino stage. Redondela is known as the town of viaducts, as an extraordinary set of viaducts were built above the town in the 18th century which continue to loom over the town today as pictured above.

**Albergue de Peregrinos ‘ Casa da Torre’.** I stayed here on my “ solo” Portuguese Camino some years ago. At that time there was little in the way of alternative accommodation-my experience only served to remind me why I avoided public albergues ever since! Nevertheless, I still have other more pleasant memories of this quaint, medieval town with many small squares filled with restaurants, cafes, and bars serving lunches and dinners for pilgrims on the Camino and being a railway ( steam era ) fan – two viaducts….

The Convento de Vilavella (Convent of Old Town), also known as Conxunto de Vilavella (Ensemble of Old Town), is the name of a complex of buildings and monuments dating from the 16th century when a convent, church, and acruceiro were built.

The buildings include a garden with fountains, a hórreo and an interior courtyard with a cloister.

Iglesia de Santiago,
the Church of Santiago Apostle which highlights Redondela’s strong links to the medieval Camino de Santiago.
Archbishop Xelmirez (of Santiago) passed through Redondela while walking the Camino Portuguese. In 1114, he temporarily established his residence here and consecrated the Parish Church of Santiago Apostle.

CASA TERESA – “Spacious house in a quiet location, 2 km from Cesantes beach and Redondela’s urban centre.
Ideal accommodation for the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route.”Review from Booking.com – “ Great stay with a group of 8 while doing the Camino. Plenty of space to spread out..” 9.5 from numerous reviews.

“Walker, your treads are/the path and nothing more;/walker, there is no path,/ the path is made when walking.

When walking the path is made/ and when looking back /you see the path that never / has to be walked again…

When the goldfinch cannot sing./When the poet is a pilgrim,/when praying has no use./’Walker, there is no path,/the path is made when walking…'”~Antonio Machado

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PREVIEW OF TUI to O PORRINO ON THE PORTUGUESE COASTAL CAMINO 16.5 KM

2 Mar

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=AFDX8EzVDdQ&si=pZNH6eDDqD_3zyOX

Aretha Franklin singing Elton John’s “ Border Song” – we have now crossed the border and will be walking in Galicia.

When I first walked the final section of this stage into O PORRINO,it was alongside a large industrial estate and if was quite malodorous. We renamed the town *Oh No Porrino*! However, a new route along the River Louro now makes this avoidable.

Tui is a popular starting point for Pelegrinos as the distance to Santiago is long enough to qualify for a Compostela. it is worth remembering that if you wish to qualify for a Compostela,you need two stamps a day throughout Galicia.

The nuns’ tunnel – Tunel das Monxas through which we pass on the way out of Tui. To avoid walking alongside the N550 we can take the *paseo fluvial* towards the Cathedral, which is the official starting point of this stage.

The
**Convento de Santo Domingo** (Convent of Saint Dominic) in Tui, Spain, is a 14th-century religious complex originally founded in **1330**. Situated overlooking the Miño River, it is a primary example of mendicant Gothic architecture in Galicia.

Praza San Bartolome – one of the oldest suburbs of Tui. we then leave the town behind and turn down on to a medieval bridge .

We do not cross the bridge over the Rio Louro but turn left along the ancient Via Romana XIX.

Who will be tempted to have their photo taken here?

The Capella da Virxe do Camino. The Camino crosses the A55 motorway along a dedicated pilgrim track with a timber safety barrier,following this we go *under* the AP-9 and shortly afterwards turn back *over* the motorway to enter some woodland.

Cruceiro San Telmo – also known as the Ponte das Febres. Here San Telmo fell sick and died of a fever in 1251 on his way back from a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. I remember stopping here for a bag break on my solo Portuguese Camino ; I didn’t stay long it was damp day and a mournful place.

Following the waymarks after crossing the bridge – the yellow arrows are important here as there are local walking routes in the area. Eventually to Ribadelouro where there is a Cafe Casa Cultura.

We cross the Puente Orbenlle and continue upto the road.

The mural is of the Portico de Gloria ( Santiago Cathedral) and the way mark directs to the “new” scenic route avoiding the industrial area referred to earlier. Signs here are often obliterated by local businesses on the original “ industrial’ route ! Arrows on the road painted out in black. We turn left,keeping a careful eye as further waymarks may have been removed.

No confusion – we take the “ complementary “ route to the left.

150 metres along left from the artwork we turn left along a dirt road ( again the arrow may have been deleted), if so,look for the black paint. We go down the slope from here .

Cross the River on the Ponte de Baranco and then uphill, between grapevines.

We follow some country roads winding our way over the AP-9.

Passing Capella de San Campio we go back over the AP-9 and walking on past a sign to Taberna Tia Maria ( left 180 M ).

We then take a dirt path and fork right to walk alongside the river Louro ( RHS ) for 2 KM until we reach the outskirts of O PORRINO. We leave the river path close to the Albergue de Peregrinos,along the Av. Buenos Aires, cross the river, past a Froiz supermarket and over railway tracks,going right towards the old town.

O PORRINO is an industrial and mining town,known for its pink granite ( exported mainly to USA and Japan ). There is not a great deal to see – the decorative fountain and the palatial town hall both designed by an O Porrino local,Antonio Palacios.

Apartamentos TARELA, calle Tarela,esquino calle Perez Leiros Bajo. “This evening’s accommodation. Stayed here while on the Camino Portuguese and this was the BEST accommodation by far. Large, modern, clean apartment with washing machine, refrigerator, microwave, air conditioning, iron and ironing board. Great view from the relaxing outdoor private terrace. The host was easy to deal with and helped ensure I had everything needed and arrived within a minute of my arrival. Highly recommended!” RECENT REVIEW.

https://www.ramblers.org.uk/features/three-simple-walking-boot-lacing-techniques May be of interest from the latest Ramblers’ Newsletter.

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PORTUGUESE COASTAL CAMINO May 2026 – VILANOVA de CERVEIRA to TUI

23 Feb

“…every morning we pull on our boots, hoist the pack onto our backs and set forth on another days adventure.” 20 KM

Tui is just across the bridge from Valenca and on entering Tui we shall be in Galicia,Spain.

Igreja Matriz and Jardim do Auditorio Municipal in Vila Nova de Cerveira.
We start this day by leaving the old town of Cerveira and following the Minho River valley, passing the villages of Campos and São Pedro da Torre through fields and brushwoods reaching the fortified town of Valença and crossing the Minho to Tui.

The first opportunity for a coffee stop as far as I was able find is after about 1 1/2 hours’ walk along the way. There is not a lot of documentation, neither in my guide books nor Internet searches, until we actually reach the outskirts of Valenca. The general theme evokes a flat,peaceful walk for the most part .

There are recreation areas along the way where it will be possible to enjoy a “ bagdrop” so bring drinks and snacks.

A view of the Tui fortress across the river.

**Roman-Medieval Bridge of Veiga da Mira –**
A Roman-medieval construction over the Mira stream, with a three-meter-wide trestle-style deck, it was part of the Roman “per loca marinha” road and the medieval road to Valença.

Until the mid-20th century, midnight baptisms were performed here, a fertility ritual with pre-Christian origins. We can take advantage of this rest stop and journey through the memories of pilgrims, merchants, and warriors who walked this path.
There are a number of direction markers here. Following the Camino,according to John Brierley alongside the railway . However,it might make more sense to stick to the riverside pathway.

The International Bridge from Valenca to Tui.

For more information on Valenca – see the link below.

https://www.portugaltravel.org/valenca-do-minho

PARADOR DE TUI – About a nine minute walk from the bridge. Tonight’s accommodation – a luxury treat –
On the border between Galicia and Portugal, in the centre of the city of Tui and next to the banks of the Miño river, is the Parador de Tui. The building faithfully reproduces the architecture of a traditional Galician pazo.
A **pazo** is a traditional **Galician stately home**, once the residence of wealthy noble families. These constructions, heirs to medieval castles, stand out for their **solid architecture and seamless integration into the rural landscape**.
Paradors of Spain are a network of nearly 100 luxury hotels—mostly state-owned—housed in historically significant buildings like castles, palaces, and monasteries, often located in scenic, rural, or monument-rich, UNESCO-listed areas. They offer a unique, authentic, and upscale, cultural experience combining, rich history with modern comforts, and are renowned for their regional cuisine.

Tui is a historic border town in Pontevedra, Galicia, Spain, known as a key stop on the Portuguese Way to Santiago de Compostela. Located on the Miño River facing Valença, Portugal, it features a prominent 12th-century cathedral, medieval walls, and rich Galician culture. It acts as a gateway connecting Spain and Portugal.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=VMKTyKWjMJQ&si=8uH8DKioNRuxDS6y

“ Sittin’ in the Midday Sun” by The Kinks

https://www.spain.info/en/destination/tui/

Our Camino continues next day by walking through the city to O Porrino.

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Our Portuguese Coastal Camino,May 2026

16 Feb

A Preview of the section Viana do Castelo to Vilanova de Cerveira via Caminha

The Coastal Camino Português distance from Viana do Castelo to Vila Nova de Cerveira is approximately
35–40 km (22–25 miles).

The route generally leads north through Ancora and Caminha, often passing through Seixas before reaching Cerveira, with options for beachside, boardwalk, or road paths. This is along,albeit flat walk, along the coast to Caminha,there – turning left to walk inland alongside the River Mino to Vilanova

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=Cby46XsFm7Y&si=rGHZAtjV_i2x5gj8 WALK ON by Neil Young.

There are several ways to approach this walk. Train from Viana.
To walk the entire route -6/7 hours . Or, by bus to Caminha and walk to Vilanova – 15 km.
Direct bus services from Viana do Castelo to Caminha operate daily, taking approximately 30 minutes for the 20-24 km journey, usually departing from the Viana do Castelo Bus Terminal (near the train station) and arriving at Caminha – Praça de Espanha. Rede Expressos and Citi Express are the primary operators, with around 5-11 connections per day.

An alternative suggestion is to walk along the coast to Caminha and take the bus to Vilanova – services similar to those above. Taking a taxi,preferably shared,is another alternative for both sections.

For the purposes of this particular stage, I’ll present it in its entirety. Again there is a choice between the Senda litoral and the Coastal. The Litoral is almost entirely by beach paths and sand dunes. To take this route take any road to Praia Norte . The boardwalks begin 3.7 km further on at Aerosa. The main Coastal offers varied terrain with distant views of the coast and several sections of shady woodlands – it is 2.0 km shorter than the Litoral. Of course, it is possible to transfer between the two routes at several places along either way . Worth bearing in mind that certain sections of the Littoral before Vila Praia are not that well marked and in places it might be necessary to walk on the sand.

Leaving Viana – Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Agonia.
**Itinerary**
Km 0 ‧ Viana do Castelo
The route is well way marked for the most part.
This describes the official route: starting from Praça da República, take Passeio das Mordomas, turn left into Rua Cándido dos Reis and continue straight on along Rua General Luís do Rego; once in Largo 9 de Abril, look for Rua de São Tiago. After passing under the traintracks you see the Estação Viana Shopping centre; before arriving ,turn into Rua Portela da Cima, which is a steep climb. You cross over a subway under Av. 25 de Abril, which is the city’s ring road, and when you come out you turn left, still going uphill, along Rua D. Moisés Alves Pinho, arriving in front of the Santos Mártires church. You continue straight on along the same street and then along Rua dos Sobreiros, bordering the Santa Luzia hill. From Rua Pedreira da Areosa you turn left to follow several narrow streets between stone walls, which finally leave you at a roundabout. You continue along Rua Entre Quintas, Rua da Saudade and Travessa das Pereiras; after crossing a stone bridge over a stream you come to the entrance to the Quinta da Boa Viagem mansion. Photo below

Km 4,9 ‧ Areosa
You continue 100 metres along a paved path between two rows of olive trees, before turning right uphill and reaching a small housing estate. You continue on paved road through a pine forest and take a path that turns off to the right. You continue between houses, stone walls and narrow streets, sometimes with good views of the coastline. When you reach a bridge over the railway track you turn right to take Rua do Moreno and cross the tracks at a level crossing without barriers. You reach the cemetery and the church of Carreço. Photo of Carreco below.

Km 8.4 ‧ Carreço
You continue behind the church parallel to the railway line, to finally cross it again, this time over a bridge. You follow the cobbled Avenida de Paço.
Shortly afterwards the path enters a eucalyptus forest, a rough but very pleasant part of the route, after which you reach a crossroads. Now on paved roads you enter the neighbourhood of Armada, which belongs to the town of Afife.
After a stretch of cobbled path through the forest you reach the Quinta de Cabanas and the Convent of São João de Cabanas. After the bridge the path continues to the right along the river’s edge, taking some cobblestones and stairs. A slope and rocky path leads you to another path with cobblestones, now going downhill; then comes a new uphill stretch through the forest, with a dirt track and stone tiles. After 20 minutes you reach a first crossroads, and shortly afterwards another crossroads where you start a descent over stony ground. After 1 km, now on cobblestones, you reach the village of Barreiros.
After 800 metres the path takes you past another large stone cross in a grassy parterre, and you continue along a cobbled path. Just after crossing a stone platform over the river Âncora, you take a path to the left, along which you reach the N-305 road, which you cross. You take another shortcut to the left along Rua da Barrosa, through pine trees, and reach a school and the glazed building of the municipal swimming pool. You soon walk under the N-13 road through a subway and proceed towards Praça da Revolução, the centre of Vila Praia de Âncora. Photos below

Km 18,3 ‧ Vila Praia de Âncora
You cross the railway line at one of the level crossings and arrive at the coast, next to the Lagarteira fort. Photo below .You follow the entire coastline, parallel to the railway line and the sea, passing by the chapel of Santo Isidoro. After 1.8 km the path crosses a subway under the railway line and enters the town of Moledo. Photos below.

Km 23 ‧ Moledo
After crossing under the railway track you continue parallel along the pavements of Santana Avenue until you reach a large roundabout. Cross the roundabout at the pedestrian crossings and continue along a cycle path, always parallel to the railway tracks, for 3.2 km until you enter Caminha, arriving at the Town Hall square, with the beautiful Clock Tower and the gate that leads to the old town centre.

Km 26,8 ‧ Caminha

Lagarteira Fort

Caminha Town Hall Square.
*Caminha* is the last town in Portugal on the coast.
It is here that the Atlantic meets the *Río Miño*, making for the ideal natural boundary. The main square (*Praça Conselheiro Silva Torres*) makes for the perfect place to rest or explore. At its northern edge stands the *Torre do Relogio*, where a euro affords you access to the best view in town. Further north, and adjacent to the old defensive walls, is the *Igreja Matriz de Caminha*.

https://share.google/vLflNxjfJXyWmaTV9 YouTube tour of Caminha

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=fe1pB9KqHRg&si=pJBzDSe-eAwpwtOw THE SEA by Claude Debussy. It is here that we bid farewell to the ocean.

A view from the bridge over the Minho River .

ONWARDS TOWARDS VILA NOVA DE CERVEIRA.

The connecting route to Valença starts at the exit of Caminha past the roundabout. It goes straight over the bridge (Ponte Rodaviária de Caminha),The passeio fluvial .You’ll see a yellow arrow on the left side of the bridge from there on there will be arrows and signs marking the Camino route. The route somewhat follows the river course . ( This possibility did not exist on my last walk here a few years ago – in 2016 a new ecopista was opened alongside the river,traffic free .

Passing through Seixas (2.9km) you come to Lanhelas

“Lanhelas is a picturesque parish in the Viana do Castelo District of Portugal, known for its scenic beauty and proximity to the Minho River, which forms the natural border with Spain. The area is characterized by its rural charm, traditional Portuguese architecture, and a peaceful atmosphere. It is part of the Caminha municipality, which is renowned for its historical significance and natural landscapes. Lanhelas offers a glimpse into the tranquil lifestyle of northern Portugal, with opportunities for outdoor activities such as hiking and exploring the surrounding countryside.” AI

Vila Nova de Cerveira is a charming, art-filled town on the Camino Portugués Coastal Route, located about 15.5 km from Valença. Pilgrims often walk from Caminha to Cerveira (approx. 16 km) along the scenic Ecopista do Rio Minho, a flat, riverside path known for birdwatching in particular.

Billed as a delightful riverside town – King Dinis granted its charter in 1321.

INATEL – Tonight’s accommodation.
“This property is a 4-minute walk from the beach. Located in the heart of picturesque Vila Nova Cerveira and nestled on the banks of River Minho, INATEL Cerveira Hotel offers modern air-conditioned accommodation with river or mountain views. It features a restaurant,a bar, sun terrace and 2 pools.

The rooms and suites feature contemporary décor and come with a balcony or terrace. They have a seating area with a cable TV, desk and a wardrobe. Each has free Wi-Fi and a private bathroom with a hairdryer and free toiletries.

A buffet breakfast is served daily in the dining room and the chic designed restaurant serves national Portuguese and international cuisine.

Guests can sunbathe poolside or on the sun terrace, whilst enjoying a beverage and a snack from the bar. There are tennis courts, billiards and table tennis tables. Indoors, there is a lounge area and a library. “Beautiful and luxurious hotel right on the Camino way. The room was of a good size, very clean, and the restaurant was very nice. Breakfast was great.“ RECENT REVIEW

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