Our Portuguese Coastal Camino,May 2026

A Preview of the section Viana do Castelo to Vilanova de Cerveira via Caminha

The Coastal Camino Português distance from Viana do Castelo to Vila Nova de Cerveira is approximately
35–40 km (22–25 miles).

The route generally leads north through Ancora and Caminha, often passing through Seixas before reaching Cerveira, with options for beachside, boardwalk, or road paths. This is along,albeit flat walk, along the coast to Caminha,there – turning left to walk inland alongside the River Mino to Vilanova

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=Cby46XsFm7Y&si=rGHZAtjV_i2x5gj8 WALK ON by Neil Young.

There are several ways to approach this walk. Train from Viana.
To walk the entire route -6/7 hours . Or, by bus to Caminha and walk to Vilanova – 15 km.
Direct bus services from Viana do Castelo to Caminha operate daily, taking approximately 30 minutes for the 20-24 km journey, usually departing from the Viana do Castelo Bus Terminal (near the train station) and arriving at Caminha – Praça de Espanha. Rede Expressos and Citi Express are the primary operators, with around 5-11 connections per day.

An alternative suggestion is to walk along the coast to Caminha and take the bus to Vilanova – services similar to those above. Taking a taxi,preferably shared,is another alternative for both sections.

For the purposes of this particular stage, I’ll present it in its entirety. Again there is a choice between the Senda litoral and the Coastal. The Litoral is almost entirely by beach paths and sand dunes. To take this route take any road to Praia Norte . The boardwalks begin 3.7 km further on at Aerosa. The main Coastal offers varied terrain with distant views of the coast and several sections of shady woodlands – it is 2.0 km shorter than the Litoral. Of course, it is possible to transfer between the two routes at several places along either way . Worth bearing in mind that certain sections of the Littoral before Vila Praia are not that well marked and in places it might be necessary to walk on the sand.

Leaving Viana – Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Agonia.
**Itinerary**
Km 0 ‧ Viana do Castelo
The route is well way marked for the most part.
This describes the official route: starting from Praça da República, take Passeio das Mordomas, turn left into Rua Cándido dos Reis and continue straight on along Rua General Luís do Rego; once in Largo 9 de Abril, look for Rua de São Tiago. After passing under the traintracks you see the Estação Viana Shopping centre; before arriving ,turn into Rua Portela da Cima, which is a steep climb. You cross over a subway under Av. 25 de Abril, which is the city’s ring road, and when you come out you turn left, still going uphill, along Rua D. Moisés Alves Pinho, arriving in front of the Santos Mártires church. You continue straight on along the same street and then along Rua dos Sobreiros, bordering the Santa Luzia hill. From Rua Pedreira da Areosa you turn left to follow several narrow streets between stone walls, which finally leave you at a roundabout. You continue along Rua Entre Quintas, Rua da Saudade and Travessa das Pereiras; after crossing a stone bridge over a stream you come to the entrance to the Quinta da Boa Viagem mansion. Photo below

Km 4,9 ‧ Areosa
You continue 100 metres along a paved path between two rows of olive trees, before turning right uphill and reaching a small housing estate. You continue on paved road through a pine forest and take a path that turns off to the right. You continue between houses, stone walls and narrow streets, sometimes with good views of the coastline. When you reach a bridge over the railway track you turn right to take Rua do Moreno and cross the tracks at a level crossing without barriers. You reach the cemetery and the church of Carreço. Photo of Carreco below.

Km 8.4 ‧ Carreço
You continue behind the church parallel to the railway line, to finally cross it again, this time over a bridge. You follow the cobbled Avenida de Paço.
Shortly afterwards the path enters a eucalyptus forest, a rough but very pleasant part of the route, after which you reach a crossroads. Now on paved roads you enter the neighbourhood of Armada, which belongs to the town of Afife.
After a stretch of cobbled path through the forest you reach the Quinta de Cabanas and the Convent of São João de Cabanas. After the bridge the path continues to the right along the river’s edge, taking some cobblestones and stairs. A slope and rocky path leads you to another path with cobblestones, now going downhill; then comes a new uphill stretch through the forest, with a dirt track and stone tiles. After 20 minutes you reach a first crossroads, and shortly afterwards another crossroads where you start a descent over stony ground. After 1 km, now on cobblestones, you reach the village of Barreiros.
After 800 metres the path takes you past another large stone cross in a grassy parterre, and you continue along a cobbled path. Just after crossing a stone platform over the river Âncora, you take a path to the left, along which you reach the N-305 road, which you cross. You take another shortcut to the left along Rua da Barrosa, through pine trees, and reach a school and the glazed building of the municipal swimming pool. You soon walk under the N-13 road through a subway and proceed towards Praça da Revolução, the centre of Vila Praia de Âncora. Photos below

Km 18,3 ‧ Vila Praia de Âncora
You cross the railway line at one of the level crossings and arrive at the coast, next to the Lagarteira fort. Photo below .You follow the entire coastline, parallel to the railway line and the sea, passing by the chapel of Santo Isidoro. After 1.8 km the path crosses a subway under the railway line and enters the town of Moledo. Photos below.

Km 23 ‧ Moledo
After crossing under the railway track you continue parallel along the pavements of Santana Avenue until you reach a large roundabout. Cross the roundabout at the pedestrian crossings and continue along a cycle path, always parallel to the railway tracks, for 3.2 km until you enter Caminha, arriving at the Town Hall square, with the beautiful Clock Tower and the gate that leads to the old town centre.

Km 26,8 ‧ Caminha

Lagarteira Fort

Caminha Town Hall Square.
*Caminha* is the last town in Portugal on the coast.
It is here that the Atlantic meets the *Río Miño*, making for the ideal natural boundary. The main square (*Praça Conselheiro Silva Torres*) makes for the perfect place to rest or explore. At its northern edge stands the *Torre do Relogio*, where a euro affords you access to the best view in town. Further north, and adjacent to the old defensive walls, is the *Igreja Matriz de Caminha*.

https://share.google/vLflNxjfJXyWmaTV9 YouTube tour of Caminha

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=fe1pB9KqHRg&si=pJBzDSe-eAwpwtOw THE SEA by Claude Debussy. It is here that we bid farewell to the ocean.

A view from the bridge over the Minho River .

ONWARDS TOWARDS VILA NOVA DE CERVEIRA.

The connecting route to Valença starts at the exit of Caminha past the roundabout. It goes straight over the bridge (Ponte Rodaviária de Caminha),The passeio fluvial .You’ll see a yellow arrow on the left side of the bridge from there on there will be arrows and signs marking the Camino route. The route somewhat follows the river course . ( This possibility did not exist on my last walk here a few years ago – in 2016 a new ecopista was opened alongside the river,traffic free .

Passing through Seixas (2.9km) you come to Lanhelas

“Lanhelas is a picturesque parish in the Viana do Castelo District of Portugal, known for its scenic beauty and proximity to the Minho River, which forms the natural border with Spain. The area is characterized by its rural charm, traditional Portuguese architecture, and a peaceful atmosphere. It is part of the Caminha municipality, which is renowned for its historical significance and natural landscapes. Lanhelas offers a glimpse into the tranquil lifestyle of northern Portugal, with opportunities for outdoor activities such as hiking and exploring the surrounding countryside.” AI

Vila Nova de Cerveira is a charming, art-filled town on the Camino Portugués Coastal Route, located about 15.5 km from Valença. Pilgrims often walk from Caminha to Cerveira (approx. 16 km) along the scenic Ecopista do Rio Minho, a flat, riverside path known for birdwatching in particular.

Billed as a delightful riverside town – King Dinis granted its charter in 1321.

INATEL – Tonight’s accommodation.
“This property is a 4-minute walk from the beach. Located in the heart of picturesque Vila Nova Cerveira and nestled on the banks of River Minho, INATEL Cerveira Hotel offers modern air-conditioned accommodation with river or mountain views. It features a restaurant,a bar, sun terrace and 2 pools.

The rooms and suites feature contemporary décor and come with a balcony or terrace. They have a seating area with a cable TV, desk and a wardrobe. Each has free Wi-Fi and a private bathroom with a hairdryer and free toiletries.

A buffet breakfast is served daily in the dining room and the chic designed restaurant serves national Portuguese and international cuisine.

Guests can sunbathe poolside or on the sun terrace, whilst enjoying a beverage and a snack from the bar. There are tennis courts, billiards and table tennis tables. Indoors, there is a lounge area and a library. “Beautiful and luxurious hotel right on the Camino way. The room was of a good size, very clean, and the restaurant was very nice. Breakfast was great.“ RECENT REVIEW

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A DAY OFF THE PORTUGUESE COASTAL CAMINO – IN VIANA do CASTELO

8 Feb

“Viana do Castelo is
A historic,, maritime city in northern Portugal known as the cradle of *vinho verde*, featuring a blend of medieval, Manueline, and Art Deco architecture alongside Atlantic beaches. Situated on the Lima River, it is famous for the mountaintop Santa Luzia Sanctuary, the historic Gil Eannes hospital ship, and vibrant local gastronomy.

*Havemos de ir a Viana”* – “We shall go to Viana” – sings Amália Rodrigues, the renowned “queen of fado.” Viana do Castelo, a small city on Portugal’s beautiful Green Coast (*Costa Verde*) along the Camino Portugués, became famous through her music. Whether you’re a fado lover or not, following Amália’s advice and visiting Viana is highly recommended, especially for those walking the Camino de Santiago.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=rv3WgKFqvtc&si=lGcWE-CfOc-Qksmh AMALIA RODRIGUES

The special geographical situation of the city, next to the sea and to the mouth of the river Lima, can be seen from the **Santa Luzia hill**. This stunning view and the Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, a revivalist building by Ventura Terra, of 1898, could be your starting point for visiting the city. It is accessible on foot but this requires a steep climb of many steps.

**O Santuario de Santa Luzia**.Building work on this basilica dedicated to Santa Luzia and the Sacred Heart of Jesus started in 1904, and lasted until 1959. It is the work of architect Miguel Ventura Terra, who was succeeded by Miguel Nogueira, after the death of his master in 1919.

Architecturally, it is of Romanesque-Byzantine inspiration, fitting into the revivalist architecture that marked the turn of the century. Its imposing rose windows are the largest in the Iberian Peninsula and the second largest in Europe.
This place dominates an important part of the Lima river valley and a large stretch of the seashore to the north and south of the estuary, as well as the green mountain range. This panorama has been rated by the National Geographic Magazine as the third most beautiful in the World.

Viana was a popular Camino destination in medieval times.

Hospital Velho – originally a pilgrim inn and recently a Turismo.

**Navio Hospital Gil Eannes (Gil EannesHospital Ship)**
The Gil Eannes Hospital Ship, built in Viana do Castelo in 1955, for decades supported the Portuguese cod fishing fleet that operated on the banks of Newfoundland and Greenland.

It has been converted into a Museological Unit and Sea Centre, giving its visitors a truly remarkable experience. Today it is a focal visitor attraction in Viana do Castelo.

Praca da Republica
Praca da Republica is a prominent public square in Viana do Castelo, Portugal, known for its historical and cultural significance. The square is surrounded by notable architectural landmarks, including the 16th-century Misericórdia building and the old Town Hall. It serves as a central hub for local events and gatherings, offering a glimpse into the city’s rich heritage. The square is often bustling with activity, featuring cafes and shops that provide a lively atmosphere. Its central fountain and open space make it a popular spot for both locals and tourists to relax and enjoy the surroundings.

Viana is rich in palaces emblazoned with coats of arms, churches and monasteries, monumental fountains and water features that constitute a wealth of heritage worth visiting. At the Tourist Office, you can ask for a brochure and choose a route inspired by Manueline, Renaissance, Baroque, Art Deco or tile architecture. Whichever streets you stroll through in the historic centre, you will always come back to the **Praça da República**.

Many of the city’s big houses are named after prominent local families, such as **Casa de Sá Soutomaior** .

The Ponte Eiffel.
It’s a great example of 19th-century engineering and adds to Viana’s historical charm.
This road and railway bridge is 736 metres long and was launched in one piece. The bare mass was 1,600 tonnes and exceeded the weight of the largest bridge decks that were launched. The nine piers were air-founded at a depth of 25 metres below ground level.

**Igreja da Misericórdia de Viana do Castelo** – a hidden gem.
The Misericórdia (Mercy) building and the church date from the 16th century.
Created in 1520, the Misericórdia brotherhood developed to the extent that they decided to build the so-called “Casa das Varandas”, in the second quarter of the 16th century.

Renovation work on the church started in 1716 and were entrusted to Manuel Pinto de Vilalobos, a military engineer working in Viana. The decorative opulence displayed inside the church is in keeping with the tendency of the time.

It is seen in Portuguese style gilded carving of the altarpieces, by Ambrósio Coelho, in the glazed tile coatings, the work of Policarpo de Oliveira Bernardes, in the frescoes on the ceiling, by Manuel Gomes. It is unquestionably one of the finest examples of the Baroque in the whole of Portugal.

**Museu do Traje** (Museum of Attire) It
offers a deep dive into Viana’s rich folklore and traditional clothing. Housed in a former Bank of Portugal building, the museum showcases the beautiful Vianese costumes worn during festivals. These costumes play an important role in the city’s cultural identity.
The museum highlights the history of these costumes and the craftsmanship behind them. Traditional Vianese attire is intricate and colourful, often reflecting the region’s rural life and folk traditions. Visiting the museum is a great way to learn about Viana’s unique cultural heritage.

AN ALTERNATIVE TOUR

SAMPLE VIANA’S PLEASURES WITH A WALK AROUND THE OLD TOWN

“A leisurely paced walking tour will introduce the history, architecture and exceptional river views that can be found all over Viana. Start at the Sé (cathedral), a 15th-century construction with a Romanesque-style facade flanked by two imposing towers. Continue on to the Praça da República, the sociocultural and political center of Viana for more than 500 years. Three historic sites grace the square: the crenellated Antigos Paços do Concelho, Viana’s former city hall; the elaborate Igreja de Misericórdia church; and the elegant 16th-century chafariz (fountain).

Next, head toward the river, stopping by the Casa dos Nichos, a 15th-century building that houses an archaeological museum. On the banks of the Rio Lima, Praça da Liberdade is a huge square where the city has been investing in such contemporary buildings as the Centro Cultural de Viana do Castelo and the Biblioteca Municipal. Heading back toward town, stop at the Museu de Artes Decorativas, where a collection of antique Portuguese, European, Hispanic and Arabian furniture, azulejos and other decor awaits.

The former fortress Castelo de São Tiago da Barra marks where the river meets the sea; don’t miss the onsite Estátua à Mulher Vianesa (Statue of the Vianese Woman), a contemporary sculpture clad in shining gold.” LONELY PLANET

This iconic statue celebrates the spirit of the Vianese women who have contributed to the town’s history and identity. For a refreshing tipple after much sight seeing? VINHO VERDE – usually served white but yiu can try the red,too.

VINHO VERDE – The green wine ( or red if you fancy it ).

**Foodie Viana do Castelo**
Only 35,000 people live in Viana do Castelo so it probably shouldn’t come as a surprise that vegetarian and vegan food can be a bit hard to come by. Many things you might expect to be vegetarian, like soup or salads are often topped with Chorizo (sausage) or Bacon.
However, there is one vegetarian restaurant called Terra that’s about a 15 minute walk outside of town. Good brunch items, sandwiches, snacks, and drinks in a chill atmosphere.

Other than that, the menus of Viana are populated with seafood (it’s on the ocean, after all) and meat dishes. In fact, a lot of menus will feature only two sections for main courses, Peixe (fish) and Carne (meat). However, most traditional restaurants will have a nice salad on the menu. Unlike some other parts of Portugal, the salads are interesting with lots of veggies, not just some lettuce, onion, tomato and a stray slice of cucumber. In addition, if you don’t see anything on the menu, ask your server, most chefs are happy to prepare something for you.

“Almost every city in Portugal has an Indian restaurant and many of them are very good. Portugal had a colony in Goa, India, so many immigrants have come to Portugal to live and work. In Viana, I like Indian Punjabi Restaurante. They have a dedicated vegetarian/vegan menu with lots of great dishes. Plus, the serving vessels are adorable!” (Local writer.)

Porto Branco with tonic – Portuguese Spritzer! One of my favourites.

And for those with a “ sweet tooth “ – BOLAS DE BERLIM – custard filled doughnuts

The Tourist office can be found in Praca do Eixo Atlantica.

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PREVIEW – ESPOSENDE TO VIANA do CASTELO AND A REST DAY THEREIN

2 Feb

SUMMARY

Esposende to Viana do Castelo,

Distance – 24 km/15 mi

Time – 6 hours (moving time)

Ascent – 346 m

Descent – 361 m

Walking surface – 5.5 km/3.4 mi – footpath/gravel; 10.5 km/6.5 mi

– tar road; 8 km/5 mi – cobbled

Walking along the coast – 1 km/0.6 mi in Esposende

Highlights

A spectacular forest with a river between 9.5 km/5.9 mi and 11

km/6.8 mi. One of the most beautiful forest walks on the

Portuguese Camino.

Several beautiful churches where you can get stamps

A nice forest walk between 12.2 km/7.5 mi and 13.6 km/8.4 mi

The historical centre of Viana do Castelo

Challenges

Several ascents and descents along the route.

Walking on hard surfaces e.g. cobbled stones which can be tougher on your feet.

Walking on the sidewalk along a busy road for the last 2 km/1.2 to

Viana do Castelo,over the River Lima on pedestrian foot way.

In contrast to our saunters so far, we leave the littoral ( beachside walk ) and follow the coastal way which is inland. My memory of the littoral is that parts are literally just beach,with some stony stretches, quite difficult in places. But be assured of a lovely walk with some ups and downs and great views, in the interior.

We shall never be too far from the N.13 if transport is required at some stage

From the centre of Esposende, we take the Avenida Dr Henrique Barros Lima to the Valentim Ribeiro Hospital, installed in an elegant historical building. Here we turn left into Rocha Gonçalves Avenue to access the River Cádavo estuary.
800 metres later, we pass by the fort of São João Baptista and follow Avenida dos Banhos parallel to the ocean. **In short, the pilgrim path deviates inwards**. On Rua da Agrela, flanked by trees and fields, we arrive at the town of Marinhas (km. 4.3).
Turn right on Rua da Praia and cross the N-13 road. On the other side, we find the Chapel of São Sebastião and a Red Cross building. We follow the street to the end, where the São Miguel Church is located and turn right.
After the Environmental Education Centre, turn left on Rua de São João and shortly, we pass by the Chapel of São João do Monte. Following the Rua da Ponte Nova, the Rua da Estrada Velha and the Estrada Real we arrive at the building of the Civic Centre of Mar.

We walk on towards Antas.The path that goes down to the River Neiva runs through one of the most beautiful landscapes of the Camino Portugues coastal route.

Then we reach the crossroads with the EN-13 road, which we cross with care. We continue straight along the narrow Rua da Carvalha, bordered by houses and stone walls. The street is transformed into a dirt track that runs down into the forest.

After a crossroads with a large Jacobean monolith in stone, on the left a narrow, but beautiful, the path starts that descends to the riverbed of the River Neiva, next to an old mill or Azenha of Guilheta, transformed today into a country house.

**We cross the river by a platform of granite slabs without a handrail, as it was done in the Middle Ages**.

Once we have crossed the river, the paths will be predominantly uphill. We will pass by the **chapel of Our Lady of Guadalupe** and the **church of São Tiago**. From here, we still have one more church to pass, the church of **São Romão de Neiva**, before arriving at the village of **Chafé.** Here we will have to take the detour to **Vilanova de Anha**.

That’s what it looked like on 31st January!

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=EdqttCJid-A&si=8O5MO5rmx9V_39lb “ The River is Wide, I Cannot Cross over”. By the amazing and ageless Joan Baez.

Iglesia de Santiago de Castelo do Neiva
The Church of Santiago de Castelo do Neiva dates from the 9th century; **It may be the first church dedicated to the apostle throughout the Iberian Peninsula, after the primitive temple that was raised in Santiago de Compostela.** Inside the church, we can find a carved tombstone, where the consecration of the temple to the saint is found, in 862.

Leaving the town, we move onto a small paved road, surrounded by fields and forest, which leads us to an industrial estate. We continue along a sandy stretch down to Darque (km. 22.6).

We follow the route of the N-13 road, along the sidewalk, to a roundabout.

We go straight on to the Eiffel Bridge, over the River Lima. On the other side, turn left to enter the historic centre of Viana do Castelo.

Puente Eiffel
The Eiffel Bridge is located on the River Lima, giving entrance to Viana do Castelo. **The bridge was built in 1878, ten years before the Eiffel Tower,** and is the work of the French engineer. The building is 560 metres in length and has two levels, one dedicated to pedestrians and cars, and another one for trains.

Then turning
left towards the old town and our accommodation.

HOTEL LARANJEIRA Rua Candido Dos Reis (Antiga Rua General Luis do Rego), 45, 4900-082 Viana do Castelo.)
“In the wonderful city of Viana do Castelo, Hotel Laranjeira offers unparalleled views over the historic center. A home away from home, the hotel is ideal for those seeking tranquility while remaining close to the city’s restaurants and cultural life. Enjoy a comfortable stay in a peaceful environment, perfect for resting and recharging before continuing your journey to Santiago de Compostela.” **(From the hotel’s website )**

**Suggestions for the rest day in Viana to follow.**

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PREVIEW OF PORTUGUESE CAMINO MAY 2026 Vila do Conde to Esposende

22 Jan

Today’s destination – 24.2 KM There are short, walkable links from the coast inland to the N-13 if a bus or taxi is needed.

We have the option of returning to the litoral along the coast, keeping the River Ave on our left until the ocean,or follow the brown way markers along the narrow lanes of Vila do Conde, soon entering Povoa de Varzim – quite a contrast to Vila do Conde.

The preferred option is to head back to the coast.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=0ZryiRRdA_0&si=eVPDkhNOQkXL6duV “ THE SEA” by Fotheringay,featuring the distinctive voice of Sandy Denny.

Praca d. Joao II
A memorial to the 500th anniversary of the Portuguese Discoveries and Vila do Conde’s participation in the Maritime Epic. A monument-square designed by the sculptor José Rodrigues, marked by the vertical assertion of a mast and the sails of a ship furrowing geometric waves, with a mermaid punctuating an enchanted sea where the firmament is reflected.
Routes of adventure. Navigation instruments and sundials. Spheres reminiscent of the sidereal universe. The strength of the Padrões (standards) reflecting the Portuguese presence on the five continents. Water, the source of life, like the blood of the sailors who take ships and caravels to sail “seas never before navigated”.
A poetic evocation and tribute from Vila do Conde to its sailors, caulkers, and naval carpenters who helped “give new worlds to the world,” inaugurated on June 14, 2001.

This is a virtually flat stage.

Forte de Sao Joao Baptiste –
It is believed that this fortress (São João Baptista Fortress) was built as early as 1573; now it is a hotel.

Pedra da Tartaruga –

Highlight • Natural Monument
The Turtle Rock really does look like that.

After 4 KM we reach Povoa de Varzim.This once – small fishing village with a port in use since the 11 th century is now a seaside resort with fine beaches and the last stop on Porto’s Metro.

Tiled memorial of the town’s seafaring and fishing history.

The town does still have a historic centre

Boardwalk heading away from Povoa de Varzim

*The Masseiras* – These are low-lying market gardens which form a system of agriculture unique in the world. These troughs have been dug into the sand to protect vines and vegetables from the wind and salt air – they trap warm air cresting a microclimate. They are filled with seaweed and other fertilisers. This area from the cape of Santo Andre and the estuary of the river Cavado is protected.

Bundles of seaweed collected for fertilising the Masseiras.

A golf course, foot ball pitch and Campismo Rio Alto adjacent to the boardwalk.

3 KMs further on we reach Apulia Praia –
Part of the Litoral de Esposende Protected Landscape, Apúlia Beach covers a large expanse of sand surrounded by dunes that serve to protect the Beach from stronger winds. The dunes are also home to former windmills that have now been converted into holiday homes.

A popular summer destination, the beach has every kind of service and facility and even comes with a specialist health recommendation given its richness in iodine. The abundance of seaweed is one of its greatest characteristics and resulted in one of the defining landmarks of Portugal’s northern coastline – the “Sargaceiro da Apúlia”, known thus due its purpose of collecting sargaço (the local name for seaweed), which was then used as fertiliser on surrounding fields.

To reach Esposende we turn inland to Fao

https://www.visitesposende.com/en/fazer/roteiros/parish-tour/tour-fao

The above link gives an interesting commentary on Fao.

This evening’s accommodation. Riverside location.

https://www.booking.com/Share-l59Th32

The above link should save you from the “middle of nowhere”.

A song by the late,great Dusty Springfield.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=sxlF12tuhbA&si=o-roTKMcDkAKoIMt

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PORTUGUESE COASTAL CAMINO 2026. MATOSINHOS TO VILA DO CONDE PREVIEW

16 Jan

A flat mixture of boardwalk, paved path, and cobblestones. 22 KM The day is a mixture of beautiful beaches,lovely rugged coastline, nice little hamlets, and a conclusion at one of the coolest towns on the Camino – **Vila do Conde.**

Boa Nova Lighthouse North of Matosinhos. It was built to alleviate the shipwrecks along this notorious stretch of sea known as the Black Coast – *Costa Negra*.

Boa Nova Chapel near Matosinhos with a good cafe nearby. We continue along the boardwalks – *paseos de madera* – there will be information panels all along the coast to Vila do Conde.

**Obelisco da Memoria** in memory of the surprise landing of liberal troops commanded by Dom Pedro IV in 1832 who took on the absolutist army in Porto.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=HmR2IZjuMVc&si=v_vhfAmT6uYa3fk7 Katrina & The Waves

**Tanques Romanos**
Spread along 600 meters along the Angeiras Beach, there are six clusters of tanks, amounting to 32 pieces, excavated in the rocks during the Roman period (3rd to 4th centuries AD). These rectangular cavities of different depths would be used for fish salting and the production of other types of canned fish, including the famous “garum”. Close to some tanks, several structures were also detected, formed by pebbles and clay floors and enclosed by small stone walls. The area is used to harvest seaweed – Sargaco – to fertilize the sterile sandy soil..

Using the wooden bridge,we then cross over the River Onda and onwards towards Labruge using the boardwalks,winding our way around the San Paio headland.

**Capela San Paio** –

Erected probably in the Middle Ages to Christianize a site that had been sacred since antiquity, it takes the name of S. Paio from the young martyr S. Pelayo (Paio is an abbreviation of Pelayo). Pelayo was the nephew of the Bishop of Porto, Hermógio, and was taken prisoner with him at the battle of Vale de Junquera, Navarre, on July 26, 920, and taken to Córdoba by Caliph Abd-Al-Rahman III. There he was martyred three years later. Being a saint from Porto, his cult spread throughout the area of nascent Portugal, with a particular incidence in the coastal regions, where legend says that parts of his body washed ashore. His feast day is celebrated on the first Sunday of July.

An amazingly decorated house in Vila Cha.

7 KMs to Vila do Conde, entering the town after crossing the Rio Ave.

Vila do Conde is a charming coastal municipality and one of the oldest settlements in Northern Portugal, located on the Atlantic coast 20 km north of Porto. It is known for its rich maritime history, beautiful beaches, and historic landmarks.

The Centro – Praca da Republica at the heart of the town.

There are a lot of interesting places to see here :-

**Mosteiro de Santa Clara:** A striking 14th-century monastery complex that dominates the skyline and offers beautiful views of the Ave River.

A notable 16th-century church with impressive architecture, built after King Manuel I’s visit in 1502.

**Santa Clara Aqueduct –** the impressive 18th-century aqueduct that stretches for several kilometers inland.

**Nau Quinhentista –** a replica of a 16th-century Portuguese caravel ship near the waterfront to learn about the town’s shipbuilding heritage.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=AdiuqQ7xm30&si=4hExSfFp0q40tiOp “ Wooden Ships on the Water” by Crosby,Stills and Nash.

**Forte de São João** – A 15 minute walk from the town centre – (St. John the Baptist of Foz Fort): Explore the medieval fortress located at the river mouth with panoramic views.

This evening’s accommodation at Naval Guest House. “ Close to Camino. Clean, comfortable and quiet. Hosts are responsive and kind. Bonus – stamp available for pilgrim passport” RECENT REVIEW

When I began these previews, last year, for the Via Francigena, it was to help,with the familiarisation of the route for all of us. Same principles apply for the Portuguese.

Hopefully we’ll get sunshine en route.

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CAMINO PORTUGUESE 2026 PREVIEW. PORTO TO MATOSINHOS

12 Jan

That’s our destination.
The information for these previews is gathered from several guide books, the internet and my own memories, hopefully time hasn’t dimmed them ! The coastal Camino has become far more populated since I last walked it. See the table below.
The July numbers are now available. Both the Coastal and Central Routes were busier than last year. With St. James’ feast day on July 25, that week was busier than the rest of the month in Santiago. The 100 km cities still are very popular with just over 75% of walkers on the Central Route beginning in O’Porriño, Tui or Valença. On the Coastal Route, just over 35% began in Baiona or Vigo.

The 100 KM cities refers to minimum starting points long enough to obtain a Compostela.

After a morning sight seeing in Porto, at 2pm,we should gather outside the cathedral ,from whence we begin our first day’s saunter. Passport (Credencial) and its initial stamp at the Porto Cathedral (Sé do Porto) at the tourist entrance or information desk to the right of the main entrance.

THE CATHEDRAL

Walking from Porto Cathedral to Praça da Ribeira is a short, scenic downhill stroll ,by heading towards the river, taking winding streets like Rua das Flores,passing the church of San Laurenco,down Rua de Santa Ana,then downhill along the Rua dos Mercadores,which will eventually bring us to the Cais da Ribeira,Porto’s waterfront.

Cais da Ribeira .
Porto’s historic, colorful, UNESCO-listed riverside district on the Douro RiverIt is known for its lively atmosphere, medieval alleys, cafes, restaurants, traditional *barcos rabelos* (port wine boats), and stunning views of the Dom Luís I Bridge.

We turn right,keeping the river on our left,following the coast all the way to Matasinhos,10 km.(I have walked a section of this route to the tram terminus ,a short way ,on a holiday , but never on a Camino, as in the past I took the Metro to Matosinhos Mercardo and began from there. So I am really looking forward to it.)

We shall be sauntering along pavements,cycle tracks and boardwalks for the next two days. We walk below the bridge and after 2.5 KM we should reach the mouth of the river and the Atlantic Ocean.

We then come to Foz de Douro through shaded gardens.

Foz do Douro is an upscale, picturesque district in Porto, Portugal, located where the Douro River flows into the Atlantic Ocean, known for its sandy beaches (like Praia da Luz), scenic promenades, historic forts (Castelo do Queijo, São João Baptista), elegant mansions, and trendy restaurants, offering a relaxed seaside atmosphere with natural beauty and luxury living. It’s an affluent area and quite a contrast to the bustle of nearby Porto.

Castelo de Queijo.
The fortress is so-called as the rocks it was built on supposedly resemble
cheese. The castle was designed by Miguel l’Ecole and completed in 1661.
Inside is a museum (admission charge) dedicated to Portugal’s commandos. The exhibits, maps, regimental insignia, weapons and photographs are mainly from the conflicts in Portugal’s former colonies in Africa – Angola and Mozambique.

We are now nearly at Matosinhos. The Camino enters the town along the beach front, turning into Av. De Republica, then a short walk to our accommodation for the evening.

“Very good value for money, clean room and with everything necessary. Well located in matosinhos, with the metro stop next door and many dining options nearby.” A RECENT REVIEW.

Matosinhos is a vibrant coastal city and municipality in Northern Portugal, just north of Porto, known for its extensive sandy beaches, bustling fishing port and famous for fresh seafood, with streets lined with restaurants grilling fish outdoors; also features municipal markets. It also features historical buildings, the Church of Matosinhos, and the MuMMa (Matosinhos Memory Museum).

THE OCEAN – Richard Hawley

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=_1dugEjcwAA&si=m2D4jqGLfXbI7vZs

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IT’s 2026 – TIME TO PREVIEW THE STAGES OF OUR CAMINO PORTUGUESE IN MAY. DAY ONE – TO PORTO.

5 Jan

**“Porto is a city where history is woven into every brick and the river flows with stories.”**

Thursday,14th May 2026 we fly to Porto,leaving at 12.25 and arriving @ 14.45. Allowing for airport clearance and transfer by taxis to The Log Porto Hotel, check in etc, we should have an evening before us.

It is a short walk from here to either the bus stop, or Estadio de Draga metro station should you wish to go into town.

**Andante Tour/Porto Card:** Offers unlimited travel for a set period, great for tourists. Buy at the station. Remember to endorse the ticket before boarding and when changing lines.

To get from Estádio do Dragão to São Bento by Porto Metro, take the Blue Line (Line B, C, or E) from Estádio do Dragão towards the city center, get off at Trindade Station, and then either walk (about 5-10 mins) or take a short connection to São Bento (Line D), though often the walk from Trindade is simplest for São Bento, as it’s a major hub. São Bento Railway Station

Admire the stunning entrance hall, adorned with approximately 20,000 blue-and-white azulejo tiles depicting scenes from Portuguese history. That’s a great place to start a tour of the city. NB to bring up a link just press slightly on it.

https://porto-north-portugal.com/porto-guide/porto-walking-tour-self-guided-1-day-foot.html

The above link is comprehensive, bear in mind that we have the next morning to further explore the city before meeting at the See ( cathedral),14.00 to get a stamp for your pilgrim passport and begin our first stage of walking to Matosinhos.

https://www.introducingporto.com/porto-cathedral

“Portuguese food isn’t just about taste; it’s about tradition, culture, and sharing stories over a meal.” Dinner could be taken here or back at the hotel. Classic Portuguese dishes feature fresh seafood, rich stews, pork, and iconic pastries, with highlights including Bacalhau à Brás (cod with potatoes/eggs), Caldo Verde(kale soup), savory Francesinha sandwich, pork/clam Carne de Porco à Alentejana, seafood Cataplana, grilled sardines, and sweet Pastéis de Nata, showcasing a blend of land and sea flavors.

“Classic Portuguese wines are famous for **Port** (fortified, from Douro), crisp **Vinho Verde** (young whites), rich reds from regions like **Douro**, **Dão**, and **Alentejo** (using grapes like Touriga Nacional, Castelão, Baga), and the unique fortified wines from **Madeira**, offering diverse styles from aromatic whites to bold, complex reds and sweet dessert wines.”

Of the several times I have visited Porto,one of the many highlights for me was the cable car journey across the river to Gaia and the port cellars

The cable car over the Douro in Porto is the **Teleférico de Gaia**, offering stunning aerial views of Porto’s historic center, the Douro River, the Dom Luís I Bridge, and Vila Nova de Gaia’s port wine cellars. This short, scenic 5-minute ride connects the riverside in Gaia (near the Beira Rio Market) to the upper Jardim do Morro, providing a relaxing way to see landmarks and avoid hills.
**Cost:** Varies, but typically around €7-€10 for a return trip, often including a free port wine tasting at a cellar.

From its construction in 1763 until the late 20th century the Torre dos Clérigos was the tallest building in Portugal. The climb up the steps is well worth the effort.

It’s your Camino so whether touring a city, or exploring a village on the way, everyone should feel free to follow their own interests be it gastronomy, history, sacred sites,sunbathing or people watching. I hope this short blog whets your appetite for what is to come.

Here’s a short list of essential Portuguese phrases for greetings, politeness, and basic communication:

Olá (Hello), Bom dia/Boa tarde/Boa noite (Good morning/afternoon/evening), Obrigado/Obrigada (Thank you – speaker’s gender dependent), Por favor (Please), Desculpe (Sorry/Excuse me), Sim/Não (Yes/No), Não entendo (I don’t understand), and Fala inglês? (Do you speak English?).

Greetings & Politeness

Olá / Oi: Hello / Hi (Olá is more standard, Oi is casual, common in Brazil).
Bom dia: Good morning (until noon).
Boa tarde: Good afternoon (noon to ~6 PM).
Boa noite: Good evening / Good night (after ~6 PM).
Como está? / Tudo bem?: How are you? / Everything good?.
Estou bem / Tudo bem: I’m well / All good (response).
Por favor: Please.
Obrigado/Obrigada: Thank you (men say Obrigado, women say Obrigada).
De nada: You’re welcome.
Com licença / Desculpe: Excuse me / Sorry.

Basic Communication & Travel

Sim / Não: Yes / No.
Não entendo: I don’t understand.
Fala inglês?: Do you speak English?.
Não falo português: I don’t speak Portuguese.
Onde é…? Where is…? (e.g., Onde é o banheiro? – Where is the bathroom?).
Quanto custa?: How much does it cost?.
Até logo / Tchau: See you later / Bye (Tchau is more casual).

DISCLAIMER- No wine was drunk during the compilation of this blog.

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“Oh I have been to Ludlow fairAnd left my necktie God knows where,And carried half way home, or near,Pints and quarts of Ludlow beer:” A E Housman

9 Dec

Sutton Coldfield Ramblers’ Christmas meal took place on Sunday,7th December,2025 at the Fishmore Hotel, a mile or so outside of Ludlow Town. One group was dropped off by the coach for a linear walk, the remaining ramblers disembarked at the hotel from whence there was a choice of two more walks. I chose the Town trail to be led by Ken and what a good choice this turned out to be.

Gathering outside the hotel in the drizzle but anticipatory spirits were high, nevertheless . I must have been 25 years or more since I was last in Ludlow where I came with two of the children who had chosen Ludlow Castle for history research topic.

The construction of the Ludlow Castle started around 1085, with many later additions in the following two centuries. It is one of the most interesting castles in the Marches, in a dominant and imposing position high above the river Teme. It features examples of architecture from the Norman, Medieval and Tudor periods. The building of the castle led to the development of Ludlow itself, at first grouped around the castle; the impressive ruins of the castle occupy the oldest part of Ludlow.

In the late 12th and early 13th centuries the castle was extended, and part of the grid pattern of streets immediately to the south was obscured by the enlarged outer bailey. From 1233 onwards the town walls were constructed; Ludlow Castle stood within the circuit of the walls.

Ludlow Castle has played a key role in some turbulent events in English history. One of its 14th-century owners, Roger Mortimer, helped his mistress Queen Isabella, in the overthrow of her husband King Edward II. In 1473, the Prince of Wales and his brother were held here before their mysterious death in the Tower of London. In 1502 Prince Arthur, Henry VII’s son and heir to the throne, died at Ludlow.

Ancient taxi rank spotted en route to town.

You get used to the blue plaques – there are over 500 listed buildings in Ludlow.

It was not an arduous climb by any means.

Sir John Betjeman was no mean judge! This board gives snapshots of what else there is to see in Ludlow.
Key Features:
**History & Architecture:** A well-preserved Norman street pattern with hundreds of historic buildings, dominated by the 11th-century Ludlow Castle on a hill above the River Teme.
**Food & Drink:** Known for its exceptional food scene, with Michelin-starred restaurants, delicious local produce, and the popular Ludlow Marches Food & Drink Festival.
**Markets:** A thriving market takes place in Castle Square several days a week, offering local goods, antiques, and crafts.
**Culture:** A lively town with numerous festivals, including music, Shakespeare, and food events, using the castle as a backdrop.
**Scenery:** Set within the picturesque South Shropshire countryside, ideal for walking, cycling, and exploring the Welsh Marches, with Mortimer Forest nearby.

Must-Sees:
**Ludlow Castle:** Explore the ruins of this formidable Norman fortress.
**St Laurence’s Church:** A magnificent, large parish church with stunning stained glass.
**Whitcliffe Common:** Wooded common with great views over the River Teme.
**Broad Street:** Wander past historic pubs, independent shops, and unique architecture.

Good to Know:
**“Loud Waters Hill”:** The name Ludlow comes from Old English, meaning “loud waters hill,” referring to the River Teme rapids.
**Base for Exploration:** A great hub for discovering Shropshire and the Marches.

A picture window with a difference by the square. By now we were up for elevenses…

“ Hidden away within an ancient courtyard, the Rose & Crown is Ludlow’s oldest pub, there are documents showing that there was an ale house on this site in 1102. It boasts a 13th century mullioned window with trefoil in the rear stone wall.
Following a careful restoration, we have created a more spacious pub but still with intimate areas to relax. A hidden fireplace has been exposed and beams have been revealed which had remained hidden since the 1960’s. The emphasis is on ancient and characterful wood, in all its styles – some old, some new – the flooring is oak, blended with old quarry tiling and reclaimed parquet. The original pub has been enhanced by a fantastic panelled ‘Mouse room’, sister to our brewers hall here at the Brewery in Market Drayton. Bar patrons are invited to search for all the wooden mice carved by Robert “Mouseman” Thompson.” Thanks to the Joules’ Brewery website.

June asking Mike if there really were mice in this room..

Yes there are several which were pointed out to us by a friendly and informative local.

We walked on eventually passing the Butter Cross and then another famous hostelry.

The Feathers. By now it was approaching 13.00 and time for the group to reconvene.

The meeting place. It was just before reaching here that we bumped into Sue who pointed out an alley way that led to the parish church.

The Parish Church of St Laurence. In my years of meanderings and Caminos I have been fortunate to visit many ecclesiastical sites but this was to prove to be exceptional.
Saint Laurence’s Church was established as a place of worship when the Normans founded Ludlow in the late 11th century. It is situated in the centre of Ludlow on the hill around which the medieval town developed.

The church is a member of the Greater Churches Group and is the largest parish church in Shropshire. It was one of only 18 churches given a five-star rating in England’s Thousand Greatest Churches by Simon Jenkins (1999) and is described as the “cathedral of the Marches”. The tower is 135 feet (41 metres) high and commands excellent views of the town and surrounding countryside. Notable features include an extensive set of misericords in the choir stalls as well as fine stained glass windows.

Stained glass.
After its initial Norman construction in the 11th Century AD, the church was expanded and rebuilt in 1199 to accommodate Ludlow’s growing population. During the late Middle Ages Ludlow became a wealthy wool town, to befit this growing prosperity St Laurence’s underwent several further additions. The major works occurred between 1433 and 1471 with a virtual re-building of the nave, tower and chancel elements. The tower took on a Perpendicular style which was fashionable in England in the 15th century.

Had there been more time I should have liked to have accepted the invitation to a tour by one of the friendly guides on hand. I have been in far less impressive Cathedrals.
The church is a member of the Greater Churches Group and is the largest parish church in Shropshire. It was one of only 18 churches given a five-star rating in *England’s Thousand Greatest Churches* by Simon Jenkins (1999) and is described as the “cathedral of the Marches“.^[2][3] It is the 13th most popular free visitor attraction in the West Midlands, with 70,000 visitors per year.^Wikipedia^….

One of many interesting alleyways as we made our way back to the hotel.

No crackers to pull but Trish had a great headdress.

We enjoyed a convivial evening before returning to SC by coach.

The Shropshire Lad, III

A. E. Housman

A.E. Housman, the famous poet, had a deep connection to Ludlow, Shropshire, featuring it prominently in his collection A Shropshire Lad, with poems like “The Recruit” and “When smoke stood up from Ludlow” depicting its landscapes, towers, and local life, and his ashes are buried in St. Lawrence’s Church there, marked by a cherry tree.

            THE RECRUIT

Leave your home behind, lad,
    And reach your friends your hand,
And go, and luck go with you
    While Ludlow tower shall stand.

Oh, come you home of Sunday
    While Ludlow streets are still
And Ludlow bells are calling
    To farm and lane and mill,

Or come you home of Monday
    When Ludlow market hums
And Ludlow chimes are playing
    ‘The conquering hero comes’,

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TWENTY FOUR HOURS,OR SO IN WORCESTER - 21-22 OCTOBER ‘25

21 Oct

Invitation to my sister Penny’s new place of abode in Worcester- also a chance to catch up with my brother Matt and brother-in-law Tony. Penny has been in the house since August and overseen several improvements, particularly to the garden and surrounding shrubbery. With the weather looking better than forecast we set off for a walk .

These amazing fungi were in a neighbouring front garden.

Very quickly we came upon a park after crossing a stream.

Autumnal colours along Barbourne Brook. The first thing to catch our attention was a striking sculpture.

GHELUVELT is also the name of the park .

The bandstand was located above the pond and we could just imagine a summer scene with live music .
Throughout the summer bands regularly perform on the bandstand.

We walked to our coffee stop – the recently restored Victorian pump house which is also an environmental centre.

An almost brand new Footbridge across the River Severn

The Severn,200 miles and the longest river in England.

After a few hundred metres, the towpath took us by some riverside residences fortified in different ways against flooding.

A decorative descent to the river – hope the garden furniture doesn’t float away .

Trees – Self Optimising Structures…if you get my drift.

Worcestershire Race Course across the river .

Taking us towards another impressive footbridge.

“Keep On Running” or in our case rambling!

Railway Bridge corner,galloping towards the finish…

The University has a number of campuses around the city.We were bound for The Infirmary ( no jokes please ) – being a Monday it was one of the few sites open.

The Infirmary Museum is an interactive exhibition at the University of Worcester’s City Campus combining history, science, art and technology to explore the medical stories of one of England’s oldest infirmaries.

WORCESTER ROYAL INFIRMARY
Worcester Infirmary operated from this site from 1771 until 2002 and in that time observed many advances in healthcare and innovation. Those who worked here also proved instrumental and the exhibition and tours aim to convey these important discoveries. For example, local man Sir Charles Hastings presided over the first meeting of the Provincial Medical and Surgical Association in July 1832. The organisation which later became the British Medical Association and continues to print the British Medical Journal sharing the results and research by medical professionals to improve the lives of many.
Worcester Infirmary was granted ‘Royal’ status on a visit from HRH Prince of Wales in 1932 and subsequently was referred to as WRI. The records and archives of the historic building and activities at Castle Street, as well as the first infirmary in the city at Silver Street are held in the hive and the George Marshall Medical Museum and are available for research purposes.

Only one large room but designed brilliantly.

The museum’s collections include information and research about former patients of the Worcester City and County Pauper Lunatic Asylum, also known as Powick Asylum.

Three examples of inmate records-a fascinating feature within the Infirmary collection.

An exceptional little museum and a thoroughly enjoyable and informative visit.

We had aperitifs in this amazing local – apart from great beer the inside was filled with curios, sketches and photos, many of which we enjoyed recognising.

TUESDAY MORNING’S VISIT TO THE MUSEUM

Housed in an elegant Victorian building in the heart of Worcester, the Art Gallery and Museum is a warm and friendly place with exhibitions, events and activities for all the family to enjoy throughout the year.

Just before a side entrance to the museum we came upon these figures perched on the end of a van. We later discovered thst they were part of a temporary collection which was being dismantled.

Our attention was taken by another temporary exhibition.

Watercolours of many of Worcester’s historic buildings by Jilly Oxlade-Arnott

The facade of Worcestershire Cathedral
Jilly Oxlade-Arnott started her professional artistic career in Worcester, studying its abundant heritage.
Now an established international artist, this welcome return unveils new work depicting the city’s historic architecture.

We packed a lot into 24 very enjoyable hours and Worcester is a great city to pass time in – so much history – and that mighty river. Thanks to Penny,Matt and Tony for being such good city guides and great company.

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FAREWELL,A CORUNA. Sunday,21st Sept.

22 Sep

Dining / cooking area – a great apartment.

We left the apartment, Gallerias Pequenas, AIRbnB at 07.30 dropped off some non – organic rubbish – walked along quiet ,recently washed streets en route to the underground parking bay, a seven minute walk away. Card payment then up and off towards the city limits, passing a police patrol car half blocking the road – either drugs or alcohol – waved through and in no time at all out of the city onto the Auto via 8 ,direction Lugo. As deserted as expected and the only occasional hazard were sloughs of fog – coming across these for the next hour as it turned out.

The estimated journey time from A Coruna to Santander port is 4 hr 15 mins. I anticipated we should get there by 12.45, allowing for a coffee break. The Brittany ferry departure time was 14.00.

Unlike English motorways, Services stops in Spain tend not to be adjacent to the Motorway, but slightly off via a roundabout – this means they are in quieter settings – restful and fully serviced.

I took on some fuel before coffee and snacks in a pastoral setting, complete with children’s’ play area and sea and mountain views- This may seem like a minor detail, but it typifies the Spanish, long distance driving experience- uncrowded, no hold ups in roadworks and more for the passengers – some lovely views.

They have to put up with me occasionally pointing out at direction signs and exclaiming ,” I stopped there on the Ingles or Norte Camino “.

Eventually, after leaving Galicia we drove through the foothills of the Picos de Europa – awesome peaks – in the Asturias, after the traffic got a little busier around Oviedo and Gijon,mainly people en route to the beaches. We wished we had time to revisit San Vicente de Barquera, remembering a great camping stay there with the children in years gone by.