About 85 KM to Santiago de Compostela We started walking at 08.40 from the outskirts of Redondela. We had not gone very far when we came to a road on which was parked a tour bus right by the Camino. Out spilled a crowd of Turigrinos,probably from a cruise ship moored in nearby Vigo. They were all crisply dressed as if going to a Christening, rather than on a “ Camino Taster”. This group added to the large groups of Pelegrinos whose numbers are swelled by those joining from the central route. Thankfully, the numbers thinned out, especially after the first hill.A bit of a shock as they turned the corner and began an ascent of 145 metres followed by a tricky descent. Depending on where people started from, eg Lisbon or Porto, I noticed some walkers along the way with foot wear off, attending to blisters and one lady I had chatted to the other day, had an impromptu ice pack on her shoulder. Understandably distance and heat contributed to these growing occurrences.Occasional glimpses of the VIGO bridge across the RiaStones and boulders in places.I felt a twinge on one of my toes – empathy?
After descending the hill and coffee on the edge of Arcade, we crossed over a beautiful bridge with an interesting history.
Although the origins of the bridge are Roman, there are no traces remaining from this period. The current structure belongs to the Middle Ages. It is a long construction with ten arcades, between which there are breakwaters. On a historical note, the battle of Ponte Sampaio against the French in 1809 took place on this bridge. The beauty of the landscape at this point is outstanding, and it offers beautiful views of the Peneda del Viso and the estuary of the Verdugo river.
Breakwaters
I stood here thirteen years ago, main difference being the weather – it was pouring down and I was in a very primitive poncho. Thanks to Dave for taking the photo.Terrapins in a fountain dedicated to Santiago!A lot of Eucalyptus in GaliciaA break in the forestry and some vines thriving.Spot the frogs – the loud croaking could be heard 25 metres away!These three statues were incongruously placed in front of a childrens’ play area on the main road into Pontevedra.Graffiti on a pedestrian walkway towards our hotel for the night.Handy balcony for clothes drying.
The Horreos makes a fine background We all enjoyed the space an apartment givesOur Al fresco dinner and a memorable eveningWe shall miss our two sisters,Maggie and Anita – their first Camino which they are determined to finish hopefully next year .After waving our two Camigas good bye we’re on our way to Redondela .A famous local architect A show stopping mural brightening up the underpass.I kept checking the marker stones for 100 KM to go.An unusual shrubAfter over two hours walking we found coffee and Tomato Tostada in a lovely village called MosThe start of the hilly section – first real hills of the Camino.Climbing up was OK albeit warm work, but none of us had experienced a downhill gradient as tough as this one.That’s the Ria at the top of the photoEye catchingThe rustic suburbs of Redondela were very pleasant and I particularly liked this villa and its backdrop.Edge of the town Redondela has two of these impressive railway crossings.Casa Teresa our lodgings for the nightGarden terrace section The lounge VIEW FROM THE BEDROOM.Not sure if the pigeons have been having shooting practice or is she just a little sun ravaged
The train from Viana do Castelo to Caminha…Ticket €3.10 only This is a fantastic trail that starts in Caminha and extends to Valença, providing an ideal experience for hiking, biking, and running. This route represents the original variation of the Portuguese Coastal Way, moving away from the coast.
Ecopista – Caminho do Rio (River Trail) is an experience of contrasting landscapes that shows us a diverse reality and leads us through the memory of time to the relationship between Man and the Minho River, providing the full enjoyment of a ‘greenway’ that crosses Vila Nova de Cerveira and connects this territory to the municipalities of Valença and Caminha. The natural conditions along this route allow for the presence of various bird species such as the mallard, heron, cormorant, and kingfisher; mammals such as the otter and marten; amphibians such as the green frog, newt, and salamander; and fish such as the Iberian barbel, chub, and trout. It is due to its importance and natural diversity that the River Trail is integrated into the Natura 2000 Network and the Waterbird Protection Area of the Minho River estuary. Caminha StationEstuary at CaminhaSao Bento at Seixas – Coffee stopWalking on alongside the River MinhoCruceiro in front of a riverside villaChapel Between the fishermen’s housesLunch break at Cafe RioMountains in the distance Approaching Vila Nove de Cerveira With more sculptures to come as Vila Nova styles itself as a city of Arts.A new bridge crossing the Minho into Espana.State of the art recreational complex.Nearing our hotel.INATEL Cerveira hotelRECEPTIONDinner Menu – good value at €21.00 we thought.We were watching Aston Villa versus Frieburg in the Europa cup final from Istanbul. 3 – 0 to the Villa! Cheers and celebrationsRob brilliantly playing a medley including CONGRATULATIONS .
The next day after an other buffet…this time breakfast, we continued our way towards Valenca
Across the river at Lovelhe,looking at SpainSome shade at timesLeaving the Cerveira section of the EcoviaValenca in the distance Outskirts of Valenca and we were all desperate for a cafe…any cafe!Intermarche’s cafe was just the job and cheap as chips and who are you looking at?Anita entering the Forteleza.. A border town located on the banks of the Minho River, Valença is surrounded by walls and retains the characteristics of a 17th-18th century fortified city, designed in the style of the French architect Vauban. Its original name was “Contrasta,” meaning a town opposite another, due to its location across the Minho River from the Galician city of Tui. Today, it is a city with a thriving trade, particularly known for its highly valued local crafts.
I don”t know if towels and bargain packs of socks count as crafts but we didn’t come all this way for them!Crossing the INTERNATIONAL Bridge to Spain
HOTEL CRUCEIRO DO MONTE – A very friendly place for Thursday 21st night halt.
View from a little bar just down the road from the hotel .Perfect for APERITIVOS and tapas.
After breakfast and in the drizzle, our thinking was waterproofs, shortish walk to museums, and the like.Using the city map we went to the interpretative Centre for the Portuguese Camino .This is located in a 16 th century , former hospital.Our route on screen.Walk This WayCourtyard of the hospital A video presentation about the origins and development of Viana do Castelo.A fountain on the outside wall of the centre Still some mizzle as the say in the commentary box.The Cathedral An understated cathedral.Bowls of flowers outside the cathedral – everywhere in Viana we enjoyed floral displays ,like Esposende yesterday.A typical Rua The Statue of Viana is an 18th-century monument, commissioned in 1774 by José António Freire de Andrade, Governor of Arms of the province of Minho, 3rd Count of Bobadela. The Rococo-style statue depicts a female figure in flowing robes, holding a caravel, which dominates the entire ensemble, symbolizing Viana do Castelo and its maritime heritage. The four busts that crown the corners of the pedestal symbolize the European, Asian, African, and American continents, alluding to the “four corners of the world” and the seafaring and mercantile tradition of the people of Viana.The lengthy Jardim de MarginalAlways some tiles featuredThe Bandstand A grand gatewayAnother imposing entrance.Keep up next door!
Viana do Castelo railway station
Next to a shopping mall that we passed en route to the funicular.To get us up the mountain sideWonderful views.St LuziaDedicated to the Sacred Heart of JesusInformation BoardThere has been a funicular here since 1923 – that’s an original.Crossing over the railway station on the way back .Local elections- same kind of promises.Called in for a quick refresher The wall decoration opposite our Lift entrance on the second floor, based on the St Luzia rose windows.The aquarium in our restaurant A classic seafood meal together.Night or day, rain or shine , Viana do Castelo always casts its spell.
A short walk from the guest house brought us to the main square.SCULPTURESAND FLOWERS Welcome to breakfast A friendly venue and a table in the sunshine.San Roque featured in the Parish church and as we walked further on , being slightly inland from the Atlantic evoked a more Camino like atmosphere.What a gateway.Rob viewing the information boardSanto Amaro was a well loved figure here.Santiago is even more loved on the Camino.Moving through the Antas district we were on woodland paths and by now it was warm enough to walk in shirt sleeves or T- shirt – no ocean breeze but pleasant sunshine.Following the arrows we went left..We could hear the sound of the river before we saw it below us .Our crossing point – in winter times apparently the water can cover this bridge, but today there was no problem.Going right we began a gentle ascent.The ocean in view from Castelo do Neivo.Left again.Black and white goatsWe found a Rua that led us to coffeeImposing, modern sculpture by a local apparently Backcloth in the coffee shopPasta del Nata – it had a real depth too,it unlike the pale imitations we get at home.Another sighting of the Atlantic A gatherings of lilies in a cool,shady spot under a high wall.St James in his niche with colourful flowers.A close up.The oldest temple dedicated to Saint James outside of Spanish territory. It was consecrated by Bishop Naustus in the year 862, shortly after the discovery of the Apostle’s tomb.I think I prefer my poles to his wobbly looking stick!We are starting from the bottom..And upwards it was…Mike and Rob making their way upwards,however the next few hundred metres became tricky, as the path was strewn with rocks and boulders, so we took our time and gingerly picked our way through.Another impressive church towards the end of the climbSao Romao de Neiva – a place of particular devotion.Many penitents make their way up these steps on their knees- none of the passing Pelegrinos took up the challenge.A small vineyard in a clearing in the woods, as we walked on through small, sleepy hamlets featuring some hand some villas.And some strikingly coloured shrubs.The lanes sometimes featured crucifixes embedded in the walls.This was a surprise – a storks’ nest.Viana do Castelo and its environs The bridge over the Minho designed by Eiffel.Hotel Laranjeiro for two nights to enable a “ rest day” on Tuesday.
A colourful evening meat at Sancho Panza with flaming Portuguese/Brazilian Chorizo for starters – don’t try this at home!
Today’s Etape was long in prospect. Most of the group set off before 08.00 with the intention of walking the whole way, 16 miles or so,taking in breakfast en route. Rob and I felt that we would need to shorten the stretch by five miles. We found breakfast quite quickly and pleased to find somewhere open that early on a Sunday.
A modern cafe with an emphasis on whole food and coffee.Au revoir to the harbour setting. The parish church for whom the bells were tolling.We passed these three wise men as we walked through the suburbs.On the outskirts of Vila do Conde.Someone’s front garden. Vila do Conde seemed to merge into Povoa de Varzim.We walked further into P de V eventually reaching the Atlantic.These symbols were on a large square by the Tourist Office , where, having obtained a stamp for our pilgrim passports, Rob enquired of the very helpful lady there as to what they meant. She gave us a leaflet which explained the history of SIGLAS POVEIRAS…see below.
This helped our understanding and appreciation of the striking tile tableau depicting Povoa’s maritime history with an emphasis on the long established fishing industry.
After a lengthy study of these tiles we walked on.Along the esplanade.The view from our coffee stopLots of beaches and many protected dunes.Floribundas We came to St Andre where I stopped for refreshments thirteen years ago – expanded slightly now.Mementoes attached by passing pilgrims.Some hills in the distance.Several windmills along this part of the coastline. It was not long afterwards and adjacent to an unlikely setting for a golf course that we decided eleven miles was enough and Rob got an Uber, in no time at all, to take us to our accommodation in Esposende.Across from the Cavado River . We enjoyed our stay .
Started off through quiet streets , a contrast to Porto.
Crossing the swing bridge.On we goLighthouse ahead Wonderfully inviting beaches.Occasionally you came across a traffic island On the edge of Vila do CondeMost of the chapels are dedicated to Mary St of Fishermen A few more boardwalks And amzing beachesA contemporary hotel with a fascinating past. Located in the heart of Vila do Conde, at the intersection of the serene waters of the Ave River and the grandeur of the ocean, stands the hotel housed in the historic Santa Clara Monastery. Its uniqueness lies not only in its remarkable architecture, but also in its ability to combine historical legacy with contemporary comfort and sophistication. This magnificent building, with its neoclassical features and exquisite symmetry, is a testament to the passage of time and radiates an imposing presence. Its origins date back to 1318, the result of a dream of its founders; however, the Monastery as we know it today is the result of several renovation works that took place in the 18th century. View from the digsWe walk on through the town tomorrow.
Extravagantly good breakfast at the Log Hotel,Porto. A mornings respite in Porto afoot, before meeting at the cathedral 14..00 to walk to Matasinhos….the Camino proper begins. Rob,Mike and I took the bus into town for €2.50 and we soon found our way into the historic centre.
The Sao Bento railway station – such a marvellous foyer. Campanha Station in Porto is one of Portugal’s most important railway landmarks, combining history and functionality in a structure that serves as a vital link for transportation in the northern region of the country. Inaugurated in 1875, the station retains a classic charm with traditional architectural elements, making it an essential point for those arriving in the city. Although the title of the main train station of Porto belongs to Campanha, Sao Bento Railway station has something else to pride itself on – the spectacular interiors and fascinating history. The beautiful building that houses the station was once home to the 16th-century monastery, the Convent of Sao Bento da Ave Maria.
Unfortunately, the original building was demolished in 1896, but it’s hard to regret it, as the beautiful neoclassical complex that was built instead is truly a work of art.
Even if you are not planning to take a train in Porto, Sao Bento rail station is worth stopping by to admire its amazing decorations. The main hall is a splendid sight as it’s adorned with over 2000 azulejo tiles, depicting the history of Portugal.
As forecast we experienced a spot of drizzle, as after a welcome coffee, we made our way past the Cathedral,across the bridge; our intention was to enjoy the views along the Douro and to catch the cable car down to the PORT side of the city.
Some TLC needed . Dom Luis BridgeThe most famous bridge in Porto, the Dom Luis Bridge, was designed by Théophile Seyrig, a co-founder of Eiffel and Company alongside Gustave Eiffel. Its sweeping iron arch and panoramic upper walkway provide some of the most breathtaking views in the city.All aboard the Telefonica . The Gaia Cable Car, or Teleférico de Gaia, is a monocable gondola lift located in Vila Nova de Gaia, across the Douro river from the Portuguese city of Porto. The upper station is located next to Jardim do Morro station of the Porto Metro, the upper level of the Dom Luís I Bridge, and the Serra do Pilar Monastery. The lower station is on the riverside promenade of Cais de Gaia, with several nearby Port wine cellars, along with restaurants, cafes and a departure point for Douro river cruises. The line was built by Doppelmayr at a cost of €12 million, and is operated by the company Telef – Transportes por Cabo e Concessões, SA. Construction commenced in March 2009, and the line entered service in April 2011. As of November 2024, the line runs every day except Christmas Day, with services starting at 10:00 and ending between 18:00 and 20:00.Great views despite the drizzle.We had enjoyed an Al fresco lunch before swinging our way back upto the bridge.We met up as arranged with the rest of our group at the Cathedral and made our way down to the quayside from whence our Camino proper began.We had about seven miles to walk alongside the Douro to Matosinhos in bright sunshine but a strong headwind.An Angel It is a lovely walk and most of the group enjoyed a welcome ice cream en route.Magnificent Anemona…on the island where we turned off for our accommodation for the night.
Matasinhos has a deserved reputation for its fish and seafood.
This was our first choice.Table for eight please.The group were divided into the Seabass and Sardines camps with accompanying salads and fresh vegetables. Both sides agreed on the quality and reasonable price of our dinners. Great meal.A look back at an eye catching tree in blossom on the banks of the Douro. We had an enjoyable first day on the Camino.
After a taxi ride,organised by Mike and shared also with Sharon and Rob, we arrived at Birmingham International in good time. Surprisingly quiet in the “ Drop Off “ zone and even more deserted at the Jet2 Check- in point. The time from dropping of the hold luggage to exiting Security was less than 20 painless minutes! Fastest yet.
It occurred to me that the reason everywhere was so relatively quiet was possibly because the Wetherspoons was rammed with passengers, with a queue to boot.
So with two hours to kill, we found a quieter coffee spot, having met up with Rita and Dave in Departures. We have all exchanged the expression “ small world” after a conversation, which came to pass when Dave realised that he and I had both attended St Philip’s Grammar School. Dave being younger than me ( like most people) started a few years after me, but happened to remark that he had a cousin who had attended at the same time as me. He said his cousin had gone on to become the Headteacher of Holy Cross School, Walmley – this immediately rang a bell. “ Your cousin wasn’t Paul King was it?” “ Yes” he replied in astonishment. “ I was his “ best man” “, I replied. I went on to describe Paul and our friendship of close on 70 years …. “ Well, I”ll be….” Small World” indeed.
Already the Camino was springing pleasant surprises….
Not quite so pleasant was the 45 minute delay to take-off, however some time was made up and we arrived in good time.
It took twenty minutes to clear security at Porto airport, thankfully there was no biometric test! Taxis to the hotels- we were glad we did not have to use public transport.The hotel,is opposite Porto FC’s stadium. We met up in the hotel lobby.I set off to find somewhere “ local” for dinner. Normally this would not have been a problem,but May 14 th is Ascension Day – many paces were closed.After a frustrating few minutes I came across this place and made a reservation for the eight of us.Everyone in good formIt had a good,vibe – no tourists except us! I was really pleased that the menu featured several versions of a dish unique to Porto.The Francescinha which most of us ordered and just about managed to finish. A francesinha (meaning “little Frenchie”) is an iconic Portuguese sandwich originating from Porto, developed in the 1950s as a local take on the French croque monsieur. It is a massive, high-calorie, toasted sandwich made with thick bread, filled with various meats—typically steak, ham, sausage, and linguiça—covered in melted cheese, and smothered in a rich, spicy tomato-and-beer sauce. SMILE FOR ANITA’S SELFIE
“Just a song before I go To whom it may concern Traveling twice the speed of sound It’s easy to get burned
When the shows were over We had to get back home And when we opened up the door I had to be alone
She helped me with my suitcase She stands before my eyes Driving me to the airport And to the friendly skies
Going through security I held her for so long She finally looked at me in love And she was gone
Just a song before I go A lesson to be learned Traveling twice the speed of sound It’s easy to get burned”.
Last Blog this side of Porto I promise.
As you may know,Barbara had a slip and fall last weekend resulting in a new hip on Sunday last, at Heartlands Hospital. We were all extremely grateful for the care she received there. Meantime, I was really concerned about the dilemma that the Camino suddenly presented. “ Should I Stay or Should I Go?” To quote another song title.
It was only after Barbara’s transfer to Solihull Hospital, Thursday 7th May, that things became a little clearer. Solihull is more of a post operative place for patients with surgery like hip replacements.. – REHABILITATION.
Today, Friday 9th May, Hannah and I visited Barbara – Solihull Hospital is more village- like than Heartlands and from our very first steps inside , we felt welcome. ( this is not to decry Heartlands which serves more purposes on a grander scale ). It was just the ambience,I guess.
A hip replacement,from a sudden fall, apparently presents different challenges than those that are long awaited ( sometimes overdue). The recovery time …ie mobility takes longer and can often be more painful at times, which makes regaining mobility a lengthier process. Whilst there, we were fortunate enough to witness nursing carried out patiently and diligently. The bonus for Barbara, Hannah and myself was the chance to talk with the two physio-rehabilitation experts looking after Barbara and gaining some valuable advice on how we might adapt our house to better suit Barbara’s homecoming and continued rehabilitation.
It was only after their appraisal of Barbara’s predisposition and feistiness that we we felt reassured that she was in expert,sympathetic and professional hands …literally. Barbara and Hannah were adamant that I must go on the Camino…
Back home, we began changing rooms etc to facilitate a safer and comfortable setting for Barbara, funnily enough Han and I felt quite energised in what became a “ project” almost….seriously it was mainly about shifting things around ….creatively of course. We are not quite there yet but we know what we want it to be.
It is not possible to predict when Barbara might be home but given present progress, hopefully in a few days’ time.
Saturday 9 th May – this time we drove to Solihull and bought a few days ‘ pass for the car park which was very quiet. Being a Saturday not many day patients and the corridors etc were so quiet we might have been in a convent.
In brief, apart from Hannah and myself , we were pleased to welcome Daniel up again from Berkhamstead and later Vickee and granddaughter Martha at the bedside. Two physios came in ( almost rapturous applause ) and encouraged Barbara on to her feet and lots of steps!
Again much credit to the professionals and Barbara’s grit and determination.
And ,so it came to pass that we eventually went back home where Dan and Hannah moved a single bed downstairs to Barbara’s temporary bedroom. Very impressed. We all felt we had seen great progress in terms of mobility and self belief today.
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BACK TO THE CAMINO
Michael Rosen – 80 today – great man.
We shall all walk at our own pace, I would only offer this piece of advice which is to take a bag- break at least every hour, enjoy refreshments despite necessity and smell,the flowers,
It would be unreasonable to assume we should all arrive at our digs at the same time , but please don’t check in until I get there, as confusion can arise about whose rooms are whose…Receptionists understandably won’t know our circumstances.
SIMPLES – I say that every year.Take your pick…
Look forward to the meet up at Birmingham International Airport on Thursday 14 th.
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