“Softly as in a morning sunrise The light that gave you glory Will take it all away”
“Flaming with all the glow of sunrise”The castle of Santa Barbara overlooks the town .
Sunday, and in these parts that means only one thing – to join the multitudes visiting the Canary Islands’ biggest market in Teguise.
A local bus journey away through fascinating landscapes. Teguise is the largest municipality on the island, reaching both its east and west coasts. Villa de Teguise was the capital of Lanzarote from the first half of the 15th century until the second half of the 19th century (1852) when Arrecife became the new capital . Teguise was the first civil and urban settlement in the Canary Islands.
Villa de Teguise has been a noble and stately town throughout its rich past, thanks to both the Bethencourt and the Herrera dynasties, Teguise´s most majestic eras. Teguise was declared an architectural-historical-artistic town and it is one of the oldest villages that has taken part in significant events in the history of Lanzarote.
VILLA DE TEGUISE – OLD TOWN
Apparently there can be up to 400 stalls here – a lot of the usual textiles – but in unexpected squares craft and art work,too.I shall just add some photos which don’t really need explanation. Artists’ studios look out on to the cobbled streets I loved this entrance We were quite captivated by the town despite the market’s flow.Musicians and dancers.Some great buskers.Local floraSide streets with a good choice of coffee stops.Some door ways with stories to tell.Landmarks Excellent info.The last wooden balcony in town.Ancient fountain Here’s hoping…It’s amazing how flora are maintained in this arid climate.Not to mention allotments or “ huertas”“ Yes we have no bananas, we have no bananas today”Wear your heart on your car door…This is a very special place which keeps it dignity and history despite the weekly Sunday invasions – we could not compare it to anywhere else we have been – an epitomy of Lanzarote.A memorable visit.
A wonderful map showing some of Lanzarote’s geological features .
“Lanzarote is synonymous with volcanoes, lava fields, rocks of impossible shapes, and black and reddish soils that contrast with the typical white houses, the blue of the sea, and the azure of the sky. The landscape of the easternmost of the Canary Islands is completed by austere, gently rolling mountains, beautiful white and golden sand beaches, lush palm groves… and the silence, which is also part of Lanzarote’s enigmatic landscape.” “Lanzarote was the second Biosphere Reserve in the Canary Islands, and it had a completely new component: for the first time the entire territory was declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO, including all its towns and villages. The perfect symbiosis that Lanzarote has achieved between man and nature is, without doubt, the main reason for this international recognition. Lanzarote brings innovative aspects to the World Network of Biosphere Reserves. The highlight is the integration of artistic creation in the territory, as an element that strengthens the island’s culture, also generating added value as a resource for tourism. This also offers aesthetic enhancements, bringing with them the improvements in income generation associated with the restoration of degraded spaces: cultural values, physical limits and environmental conditions are all reflected in the agricultural landscapes. The island possesses excellent environmental qualities and is home to emblematic ecosystems as well as highly protected enclaves.” The first islanders: the Majos Long before Europe knew these shores, Lanzarote was home to the Majos — a people of North African Berber origin who crossed to the island more than two thousand years ago. They lived in stone villages, grew barley, herded goats and made do on an island with almost no fresh water — a feat of adaptation in itself. They are often loosely called Guanches, though strictly speaking that name belongs to the original people of Tenerife; each Canary Island had its own people, and Lanzarote’s were the Majos. Discovery and conquest The island owes its modern name to a Genoese sailor: Lancelotto Malocello reached it around 1312, and by 1339 “Insula de Lanzarotus” already appears on Angelino Dulcert’s portolan chart — the first map of the Canaries. Through the rest of the 14th century, European ships came mostly for two things: slaves, and orchilla, a lichen prized for its purple dye. The conquest proper began in 1402, when the Norman knight Jean de Béthencourt and the soldier Gadifer de La Salle landed on the small island of La Graciosa. Exhausted by decades of slave raids, the last king of the Majos, Guadarfía, chose negotiation over war: a pact of protection in exchange for submission. Béthencourt received the governance of Lanzarote from King Henry III of Castile — by then, only some 300 Majos remained. The conquerors’ capital, Teguise, would rule the island for four and a half centuries, until Arrecife took over in 1852.The Hunger Fortress
The pirate centuries: raids, castles and a Blood Alley For three hundred years after the conquest, Lanzarote’s greatest enemy came from the sea. Sitting on the shipping lanes between Europe, Africa and the Americas, the island was raided again and again by Barbary corsairs and European privateers alike. In 1586 the corsair Morato Arráez sacked the old capital, Teguise — the massacre is still remembered in the name of one of its lanes, the Callejón de la Sangre, “Blood Alley”. The worst came in 1618, when an Algerian fleet landed thousands of men, burned Teguise and carried off around 900 islanders into slavery; others survived only by hiding deep in the lava tunnels of Cueva de los Verdes. The island answered with stone. The castle of Santa Bárbara rose on the Guanapay volcano above Teguise — today, fittingly, it houses the island’s Piracy Museum. Castillo de San Gabriel guarded the harbour of Arrecife, and Castillo de San José followed in 1776–79, commissioned partly as a relief project to feed a starving island — which earned it the nickname Fortaleza del Hambre, the Hunger Fortress. Manrique later turned it into a museum of contemporary art: a very Lanzarote ending for a pirate fortress. The years the earth burned
On 1 September 1730, the ground near Yaiza split open — and for six years it barely stopped. The eruptions of 1730–1736 buried roughly a quarter of the island, including some of its best farmland and dozens of villages, under lava and ash, creating the Fire Mountains of today’s Timanfaya. Three smaller eruptions followed in 1824. No lives were lost, but the island that emerged was a different world — the eerie, moon-like landscape Lanzarote is famous for. Out of catastrophe came ingenuity. Farmers learned to dig through the ash to the soil below, planting each vine in its own sheltered crater — the technique that created La Geria, the island’s extraordinary wine region. And the volcanoes themselves became one of the island’s greatest attractions.
Barrilla, cochineal and the emigrant years
“The centuries between the volcanoes and modern tourism belonged to farmers — and to two unlikely export stars. First came barrilla, a salt-tolerant plant burned for soda ash used in glass and soap making. Then, in the mid-19th century, cochineal: a tiny insect raised on prickly-pear cactus whose crushed bodies yield brilliant carmine red. For a few decades, Lanzarote’s cactus fields dyed the fabrics and uniforms of Europe.
Synthetic dyes ended the boom almost overnight, and hard years followed: thousands of islanders emigrated to Cuba, Venezuela and Uruguay. Those who stayed perfected the island’s signature art of waterless farming — enarenado, growing crops under a blanket of volcanic gravel that traps the night’s moisture — and harvested salt at the Salinas de Janubio, opened in 1895 and still working today. That hard-won agriculture is what painted the patchwork landscape you see inland.”
César Manrique: the man who shaped modern Lanzarote. Born in Arrecife in 1919, César Manrique left to paint — Madrid, then New York — and came home in 1966 with a conviction that would change everything: Lanzarote could grow without destroying itself. He persuaded the island’s authorities to ban high-rise buildings and roadside billboards, and set about proving that architecture, art and volcanic nature could be one thing. His works are now the island’s icons: Jameos del Agua, a collapsed lava tube turned concert hall and garden; Mirador del Río, a lookout carved into the cliffs above La Graciosa; his own house, built inside five volcanic bubbles, today the César Manrique Foundation. Together they form the network of Art, Culture and Tourism Centres that still defines how the island presents itself. Even the airport is named after him.
Have to go and see this..
From day one I have been interested in knowing how Lanzarote obtains its water. Lanzarote obtains almost all of its drinking water through the seawater desalination process, which turns ocean water into fresh water using reverse osmosis and older thermal methods.
Lanzarote houses the historic site of Europe’s first seawater desalination plant, which was built in Arrecife in 1964 to supply fresh water to the arid island. Today, dozens of plants across the island supply the municipal mains network. Historical Methods: Because Lanzarote has an arid desert climate with very little rainfall, residents historically relied on rooftop rainwater harvesting stored in underground concrete cisterns called aljibes.
Another unexpected fact on arrival – different time zone to Spain.
The time difference between the Canary Islands and the mainland: historical reasons
The historical reasons why the Canary Islands have one hour less go back to the year 1900, when a decree was passed to establish a single official time throughout the country that was aligned with the Greenwich meridian.
That decree, however, left out the Canary Islands, which for two decades maintained its ‘independence’ in this regard. However, due to maritime traffic issues, Great Britain lobbied for the Canary Islands to also have an established time zone.
It was in 1922 when a Royal Decree established that the Canary Islands had the time of its time zone, which, due to its geographical location, was one hour behind the mainland.
Peninsular time remained aligned with the Greenwich Meridian until 1940, when the dictator Franco, due to his sympathy with Nazi Germany, decided that Spain should have the same time zone as the center of Europe, changing from GMT to GMT+1, making the Canary Islands also move forward one hour (from GMT-1 to GMT).
This has been the case since then and the Canary Islands defends maintaining this time difference with the peninsula as a matter of brand identity and tourist promotion.
The last couple of days have been very relaxing – mainly walking the Paseo in both directions then returning to relax at the bungalow or pool.Sculpture en routeBarbara resorted to this and found it very acceptable.The second beach along from our place and Hannah loved it.We spent a good part of today ( Saturday) on the town beach which we thought was beautiful- clean soft sand and two loungers. The view from a nearby coffee stop .Coffee and Agua con gaz – perfect at 11.30The paseo narrows at this point – we thought this was the most agreeable part of Costa Teguise.
The first thing that struck me about this island was the volcanic earth and barren stretches of land,interspersed with low level white housing developments against a backdrop of volcanic mountains.
The two bedroom bungalow in which we are staying has VV printed on its frontage- A “VV” is a vivienda vacacionalThe palm tree provides welcome shade over the dining table below.The area immediately outside the bungalow.A lot of thought went into the design of this complex – these trees and cactii are watered by pipes. This method is ubiquitous on the island and I determined to find out where / how water is obtained on such an arid,volcanic place.A very well designed pool area is a three minute walk away.
It was decided that we should walk along the adjacent “ paseo” – seaside promenade which are typical of the Canary Islands.
Gateway to the sea – after unlocking the gate!Short pathway to the paseo which was divided into separate lanes for walkers and cyclists,plus another phenomenon which I’ll come to later.The beaches are shown – the best one being the last on the right.We spotted this in a garden en route – spectacular.Hannah said it was tricky underfoot getting into the sea here.An angler on the rocks.This monumental hotel was not really in keeping with the traditional white painted dwellings .A restored windmillSelf explanatory .The second beach we came to looked more inviting.The parish church,apparently.Contrasts.The third and best beachBehind this beach is an area dedicated to tourism with many arcades, shops,bars and restaurants.Barbara reading the inscription to this pueblo.Gathering under the palms – 32* at this point.Welcome bursts of colour.
Amongst the many offers available for hire this was a “ first” for me.
I had always associated these as accessories for the disabled; there were people of all shapes and sizes careering round on the paseo – good job there were three lanes .No bird life to speak of so far, apart from a couple of pigeons. This Egret had found something of interest in the cactus.Any clues as to who are the most likely visitors? We enjoyed the walkabout in Costa Teguise, but I don’t think I would want to be there in July- August. It is obviously a popular place. We covered nearly six miles on this walkabout and so it was encouraging on the walk back to think of an afternoon by the pool .
The first thing I noticed when I got out of bed was my post-it on the window sill – don’t forget blah,blah…Frequent reminders come with ageing, but it is still irritating.
I had dropped off my suitcase at Jet2’s “ Twilight Check In” the previous evening, two train rides to Birmingham International “ and back – the whole venture took the best part of 2 1/2 hours,I resolved to take it by taxi on the day of departure in future, as that had to be shorter and I would be spared the discount of been crammed in on the Maglev and crushed in the lifts at the airport.
Taxi at 3 am and I was impressed by Hannah’s choice of the “ speedy check-in”, until I entered the section where you stand on two painted footsteps and do an impression of Harry Worth waving your arms akimbo. I was called through and passed on to another security guy who after frisking me, ( and me explaining to him that I had a Urostomy ) I was then stroked by two electronic tracer devices , after which he spoke to someone on a walkie-talkie ….” follow me” he suggested and I waved to Barbara and Hannah and mouthed “ get my stuff” – a shoulder bag and a shirt from the tray, etc. I was then handed over to a sour faced individual, whose arms were covered in indelible ink and shepherded in to a room where, after I lowered my shorts sufficiently for them to see the aforementioned bag, which was attached to my abdomen.I did not exchange a word with either of them as I realised the only likely response would be “ only doing our job” and I left the room unhappily – Silly O’Clock is bad enough without that rigmarole – not a great start to the holiday. My daughter,Hannah,later made a formal complaint. I just now glanced at my watch, 08.30 – airborne for two hours now, catching up with “ The Observer” Sunday supplements, crossword and Suduko,had been a painless and even informative pastime . Strange to say that it feels more like two o’clock in the afternoon! Now, where’s that novel I want to finish….reading it,not writing it.
Well, if that was not enough excitement for the day . We got through Security at the airport in about 30 Mins. Taxis readily available. Pleasant young man took us to our AirBnb, not too far from the airport. Some slight confusion as his drop off didn’t seem to correlate with where we were to be….but near enough.
As we waved him goodbye I soon realised that that I had left my shoulder bag in the well of the front seat… OMG!
We found our bungalow in the complex and ,feeling stupid, tired and confused we deliberated about how could we retrieve the bag?
My only hope was to return to the airport- not that far away – Babs and I walked towards a small row of cafes/ shops looking for a taxi. We came across GREENS and they were happy to ring for a taxi for us. Back to the airport and in complete contrast to our arrival,there were lines of taxis. I spoke to a lady who was a taxi driver in waiting and in Spanglais she got the gist. She alerted all the airport taxis about the missing shoulder bag. The help and sympathy I got from the staff was really reassuring. We were waiting and observing incoming taxis. Would you believe, Taxi number 32 appeared at the end of a line and I was ushered by some other taxi drivers towards taxi number 32, from which our original driver appeared, holding my shoulder bag, like a trophy! Lovely guy. A really positive experience- the helpfulness and reassurance of the airport staff was commendable.
Initially, I had been quite havocked….the bag contained my I pad, hearing aid charger, sunglasses and various odds and sods .
Everything came good .
Sam Levenson: “As you grow older, you will discover that you have two hands, one for helping yourself and the other for helping others.”Taxi rank at the airportLoved this in Birmingham Airport.
Saturday 1st August, after a journey on four trains, we finally arrived at Strawberry Hill station and from there to “ SIMMS” as we affectionately call it. It was St Mary’s College of Education when we began in September 1966 – an auspicious year as this intake was swelled by the first female students to be admitted. The Reunion was arranged to celebrate this milestone in the college’s long established history .
“Know then thyself, presume not God to scan; / The proper study of mankind is man.” (An Essay on Man) Alexander Pope – – Understand your own mind first instead of trying to judge the heavens. Good advice for students…more of A P later.
Of course we are no longer students but “ alumni” – free tote bag to go…and a pen, food for thought.A section of College history along the main corridor.Strawberry Hill House which was just part of the college when we were there. The Architectural Vision & “Gloomth” Walpole transformed a pair of modest cottages (originally known as Chopp’d Straw Hall) into his personal “little Gothic castle” with the help of a group of friends known as the “Committee of Taste”. Exterior: Walpole added whimsical pinnacles, battlements, and a prominent round tower to break traditional classical symmetry. Interior: He deliberately structured the layout to take visitors on a theatrical journey, alternating between dark, narrow spaces and magnificent, gilded rooms. He famously coined the term “gloomth” (a hybrid of gloom and warmth) to describe the unique, atmospheric ambiance designed to showcase his massive collection of antiquities, paintings, and curiosities. The First Gothic Novel: The eerie, medieval atmosphere of the house directly inspired Walpole to write The Castle of Otranto (1764), which is universally recognised as the world’s very first Gothic novel. Strawberry Hill House is an extraordinary 18th-century Gothic Revival villa located in Twickenham, London, created by the writer, collector, and politician Horace Walpole. Built in progressive stages starting in 1749, it stands as Britain’s finest prototypical example of Georgian Gothic Revival architecture—a style specifically coined as “Strawberry Hill Gothic The villa underwent a meticulous £9-million restoration and is fully open to the public via the Strawberry Hill House Trust.The Waldegrave Drawing Room where lunch and presentations were to take place.Staineded glass window at the end of the corridor Later in the afternoon Looking over photos brought along by some of the group.Meeting up and sharing memories The female students gathered together by Polly of the University Alumni Office, for a group photo, which was then followed by a total group photo. Polly and her staff were friendly,patient and interested – many thanks to them and to Bobbie and Peter, ( 1966 students who set up and organised the event).The blokes…An example of the wall coverings which you were invited to touch ( in the corridor ) rather than in the drawing room itself.Books for sale in the Garden cafe and shopThere was time for a stroll about the grounds, parched by the sun.From the old to the new – The Refectory much improved since our daysThe University hosts a range of summer schools during the students’ absence on their holidays.It was a very enjoyable meet up, a pleasant lunch and refreshments,too. Great atmosphere. The university is rightly well regarded . St Mary’s University, Twickenham is a public, campus-based university located in the London Borough of Richmond upon Thames. Established in 1850, it is the oldest Catholic university in the United Kingdom. The institution has approximately 5,000 students across various degree paths and is widely known for its tight-knit community, exceptional sports programs, and high student satisfaction? Sports Facilities: The university boasts an £8.5m Sports Centre. It frequently serves as a training camp hub for world-class elite athletes, including Usain Bolt and Mo Farah.Our hotel for the night.A group of us reconvened at the “ Pope’s” at about 19.30 for a further convivial evening of shared stories and reminiscences And so to sleep…
SUNDAY 2nd AUGUST.
We made some tea in our room and then set off for Twickenham, via Radnor Gardens,in search of breakfast .Barbara looking well on the way to recovery from recent surgery.Looking towards TwickenhamSomeone in our group recommended GAIL’s – it’s part of a chain of over 180 outlets nationwide, situated on pedestrianised Church StreetGreat choice of Sourdough and Artisanal snacks. We settled for a breakfast ‘slider” and poached egg and bacon. Worth the walk.How much are those doggies in the window?We returned via a stretch along the Thames,passing Eel Pie Island – 60s musical memories…I’ve seen a few of these I recalled.
Carrying on,we eventually turned left on to River Deep – a musical Highway ? The road from Teddington to Twickenham,on which the The Alexander Pope Hotel is situated
The original Tina Turner recording of “ River Deep,Mountain High” – Guess when? 1966 !
Look carefully at the photo below Pope’s Grotto in Twickenham is the sole surviving relic of the 18th-century villa and garden created by the celebrated English poet Alexander Pope. History of Pope’s Grotto
Construction (1719–1725): Alexander Pope leased the riverside land in Twickenham in 1719 and built a tunnel under the public road (Cross Deep) to connect his villa to his five-acre garden. Design & Mineral Museum (1739–1744): Initially decorated with shells and mirrors to act as a camera obscura, Pope later restyled it into a mineralogy museum using rocks, spars, and ores sent by friends from around the world, including pieces from the Giant’s Causeway. Demolition and Survival: Pope died in 1744. His villa was demolished in 1808, but the underground grotto survived beneath later structures and is managed today via the Pope’s Grotto Preservation Trust.
Alexander Pope’s writings contain a lot of memorable advice.
I shall end the blog with some favourite quotationsand a song.
Alexander Pope’s most memorable quotes include “To err is human, to forgive, divine”, “Fools rush in where angels fear to tread”, and “Hope springs eternal in the human breast”.
Human Nature and Wisdom“To err is human, to forgive, divine.” (An Essay on Criticism) – Making mistakes belongs to people, but truly letting go of wrongs is holy.
A little learning is a dangerous thing; / drink deep, or taste not the Pierian spring.” (An Essay on Criticism) – Knowing just a tiny bit can trick you into thinking you know a lot.
“Fools rush in where angels fear to tread.” (An Essay on Criticism) – Silly people act fast in hard situations where wise beings are very careful.
“ Fools Rush in Where Angels fear to tread “ Ricky Nelson
Wednesday 22nd July began with a morning’s walk alongside the Ria de Suances on a purpose-made pedestrian/cyclable path.The walk began at the beach.Walking along the Paseo towards the river Saja estuary.Looking inland.Looking towards the sea. The Saja river – The Saja River is an important watercourse of the Cantabrian slope, located entirely in the autonomous community of Cantabria. It originates in the Ports of Sejos at an altitude of 1,700 metres and travels 67 km before flowing into the Cantabrian Sea, forming the San Martín de la Arena estuary, between Suances and Miengo. The Suances Estuary , also known as the San Martín de la Arena Estuary, is a natural estuary formed by the mouth of the Saja River in CantabriaLocated between the municipalities of Suances, Miengo and Polanco, it is famous for its sandy beaches, its great scenic value and its fishing and tourist tradition.
Key points of the Suances Estuary History and Location: Many historians place the ancient Roman port Portus Blendium here , a strategic point on the Cantabrian coast.
Natural environment: The estuary covers almost 389 hectares and boasts a rich ecosystem. Its natural mouth is protected by Punta del Torco and Punta del Dichoso (where the lighthouse and Suances Castle are located).
Beaches: In the immediate vicinity of the estuary there are important sandy areas, notably La Riberuca beach (ideal for fishing and rowing sports in the most sheltered area), as well as the iconic La Concha beachFishing boatsThe sculptures were to be indicative of a well decorated walkway.The lines of rocks are to indicate boatways of sufficient depth.The only “ moving” boat that morning.The Ribera beach and park were lined with informative and artistically enlarged photographs These are just a few of the posters on the route – locals and mainly females of “ distinction”.CIVIC AND LOCAL PRIDE – A UNIQUE PLACE“ nuestras mujeres cuentan” translates as OUR WOMEN TELLIt translates as WORKING FOR EQUALITY The path through the park And then back alongside the Ria for more great viewsOne of the very few dwellings after the park is left behind but there are benches and picnic areas mainly on decking along the way.A lizard spotted during our water break.Mountains in the distanceIt was at this point that we decided to make our way back to Suances. It had been a great walk and quite different to any we had made before. Pristine and flat, uncrowded and well made. This “ greenway” continues for a further 15 KM from this point – Oh for the time and possibly the energy!Heading back towards Suances. Time taken? About three hours.Thursday 23rd and a drive to Comillas . A meandering, two lane local road with splendid views at times. Two extraordinary sites on the way – one a church and the other an abbey.
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Overview – as ever, Comillas is on the Camino del Norte.
Comillas is a town in Cantabria, northern Spain. Its Modernista architecture includes 19th-century El Capricho, a Gaudí-designed chalet. Nearby, elaborate, Neo-Gothic Sobrellano Palace has Gaudí furniture. In the old town center, Plaza Corro Campios is full of restaurants and bars. Comillas Beach is popular for its fine sand and water sports. To the west, Oyambre Natural Park has dunes, marshland and varied birdlife.
First view of the town.This is a statue of one of the local Counts overlooking the sea. He probably thought he owned it like much else hereabouts.Church in the hills.Balconies Impressive villas reflecting prosperous times.Parish church. As it was quite early by Spanish holiday time, the “ Centro Historico” was quiet and it is an interesting place.The Turismo Wonderfully situated Villa View from our coffee stop.Quintessential Holiday snap of Barbara.The GAUDI place
“Comillas cento historic is captivating and it has a fine beach. Much to enjoy.
Suances Parish Church – bells on the hour – 12.30 Mass for the faithfulSunday morning and the town prepares to show the finalA long walk downhill to La Concha beach A MSunday evening 21.00 KICK OFF TIME IN SPAIN Local fans gathering in the squareEvening gathers but the fans are optimistic The result 1 – 0 to Spain and well deserved. A lot has been written since then about Argentina’s antics both during and after the match. An interesting statistic I came across :- In the entire competition, England received yellow card every 7 bookings. Argentina a booking every 22 cards! Still,Spain’s victory was a great result for football.Monday began with quick drive down to Suance’s car park close by the beach. A walk along the beach brought us to the River Saja ,looking North.Looking south and the estuary.
La Concha beachSuperb view of the river from the high town.Local floraHannah’s Fathers’ Day T- Shirt – the leaves are samples from all the different trees you can spot in Cannon Hill Park. The cider is from the nearby region of Asturia.Dinner at Ramiro’s – great Anguillas – good food and at locals’ prices.Tuesday morning and a local bus ride to the capital of Cantabria.Port side and it was hot enough for a swim.
Steps to the lower churchOriginal Roman earthworks The cloisterThe High AltarA striking sculpture Welcome shade then on to the marketMercado de la EsperanzaSpoilt for choiceOn the staircase 100 years’ history Jardines de Perarda – a sculpture to commemorate and mourn the great fire of 1941An example of local architecture Glass balconies are often found along Coastal citiesMuseum of Modern Arts unfortunately closed for a refurb.Constraints of the bus timetable meant that it was time to make for the estacion de autobuses for the 13.10 bus back to Suances; this blog is only a snapshot really. It is a busy place and I was glad to be relaxing on the bus rather than driving!Through the coach windows a glimpse of the sea and Portside.
The Galicia docked on time in the port of Bilbao at 07.00 boat time;08.00 Spanish time. The crew call passengers to their vehicles,deck by deck,to avoid crowding the staircases. So we had time for a cup of tea before making our way to Deck 6 and a fifteen minute wait in the car.
The Port of Bilbao is located on the Bilbao Abra bay, and along the Estuary of Bilbao, in Biscay (Basque Country). The main facilities are in the Santurtzi and Zierbenamunicipalities, approximately 15 km (9.3 mi) west of Bilbao. Also called Exterior Port and Superpuerto, the port complex occupies 3.13 km2 (773 acres) of land and 16.94 km2 (4,186 acres) of water along 17 km (10.6 mi) of waterfront.
It is actually nine miles from the city as the original port was removed in the late 20th century,planned in 1975, as part of Bilbao’s “ makeover” followed by the Guggenheim museum etc which makes the city a far more pleasant destination today .
“ Dirty Old Town “ – the Pogues.
Our concerns about delays on exiting the port, fingerprints,etc, proved to be unfounded as we simply had to exit the car,enter a border control cabin where our passports were scrutinised and our photos taken. We were waved off with a cheery adios.
We were soon driving along the Autovia and on the lookout for a breakfast stop.It was a well engineered highway,impressive viaducts and bridges and a few miles on great scenery.THE VILAGE OF ISLARES
We have become accustomed to refreshment stops on Spanish motorways. There are rarely purpose built facilities that we are used to in the UK.Usually villages and towns served by the autovias are signposted with the addition of a “ services” sign below,plus distances. The reasoning is twofold, it can be difficult to find appropriate areas to build alongside the autovias and this is beneficial to these places, utilising existing facilities.I had never heard of this hamlet but who should I meet at the cafe door?Never far away from a Camino in Spain!The best and most imaginative Tortilla I have ever enjoyed- more brunch than breakfast.The local road on which we parked.
“ Country Roads” – John Denver
A Saturday market was being assembled opposite – the queso looked very tempting.A house opposite the cafe.A distinguished house complete with shields.
We continued the journey,bypassing industrial Torrelavega and with the help of the satnav found our accommodation in Suances. As we were to discover, Suances is a town of two distinct parts. The upper town where we were based and the lower town which is the seaside “ resort area”. The major difference is that the separation is more marked by the steep hills descending to the coast.
This is a view from on high. Before descending there was the business of shopping to complete and there were no shortages of supermarkets about a ten minute walk away.
An enormous stage overlooking the main square and our thoughts were that the World Cup Final might be being shown here.By way of a contrast….The nearby parish church Real flowers!
We decided to walk down to Playa Concha, the main beach,to get our bearings and we soon realised that Clio ack up in 26* would not be fun.
Marvellous beach and we liked the atmosphere.And I liked the Tinto Verano as we awaited our taxi back up the hill!
Waking up to the news that England had beaten France 6 – 4 in the Bronze final was good if surprising news. Quiet day by the pool,home cooking and maybe an evening stroll to the square for the final.
The embarkation process was quite swift and we were soon aboard The GALICIA. It was surprisingly quiet on board,considering the imminence of the school holidays. We enjoyed our Al fresco Dinner with great views along the widening harbour as we departed .
The main bar, is typical of these ships, is given over to “ entertainment “ – I popped by for a while and enjoyed the quizzes chaired by a very enthusiastic young lady – none of your paper and pencil pub quiz , but all facilitated electronically .Answers to the multi choice questions eg “ collective nouns – choose the noun for a collection of owls,”were sent directly to the “ leaderboard “ on the stage – very impressive,with scores being displayed through the rounds.
“Hey Lord Don’t Ask Me No Questions” by Graham Parker
Horreos-iconic grain stores
Unsurprisingly, the theme aboard the Galicia was The Camino – I felt quite at home – even the glass panels on the staircase reflected thematic images and Camino routes.
The “ Reserved Seating Lounge” was called El Albergue…now that was an irony, my uncomfortable memories of using albergues was quite at odds with the plushness hereabouts.
Spinnaker Tower: Located at Gunwharf Quays, this 170-meter landmark features a high-speed glass elevator and a glass “sky walk” offering views spanning up to 23 miles.
I don’t know Portsmouth or even the area around it first hand – Lord Nelson and The Royal Navy mainly – but it has an interesting history beyond those two facets and an ecological value,too. A quick glance at Wikipedia for the facts….
The harbour is best known as the home of the Royal Navy, HMNB Portsmouth. Because of its strategic location on the south coast of England, protected by the natural defence of the Isle of Wight, it has since the Middle Ages been the home to England’s (and later Britain’s) navy. The narrow entrance, and the forts surrounding it gave it a considerable advantage of being virtually impregnable to attack from the sea. Before the fortifications were built the French burned Portsmouth in 1338.[5] During the civil war parliamentary forces were able to carry out a successful cutting-out expedition within the harbour and capture the six-gunned Henrietta Marie.[6]
In modern times, the harbour has become a major commercial ferry port, with regular services to Bilbao, Santander, Caen, Cherbourg, St Malo, Le Havre, The Channel Islands and the Isle of Wight. There is also a passenger ferry to Gosport. The international ferry port also saw a cruise terminal expansion in 2012 and sees regular cruise ship operations. It is also a major area for leisure sailing. In 2001 the Gunwharf Quays development, was opened on the site of HMS Vernon (a former naval shore establishment.
Friday on the boat passed restfully – reading a novel given to me by Hannah – and a gripping read it was.
This novel is set around 1936 – USA ninety years on…is it in a worse or better place?
In a comfortable seat by the panoramic windows that looked out on to what eventually became the Bay of Biscay. The view was mainly of a dappled, light blue sea,rippling calmly…quite soporific.
The Bay of Biscay was the calmest I have experienced ; lying in your bunk at night you would not think you were on the ocean.
“ The Sea” by Sandy Denny
Disembarkation was quicker than anticipated and we were not asked for fingerprints, just out of the car for a photograph by the frontier police and a cheery “adios”.
I stopped here years ago and a Portuguese Pelegrina took my photo, below, by the Sampaio bridge.A poncho saved from a New York City open top bus tour.
Once you reach the end of the Camino de Santiago, is it really over?
“It does not matter the route you have chosen to do the Camino de Santiago. There are many routes to follow the path that take us to the same point, the clear destination being to reach Santiago. However, what happens with many pilgrims is not knowing what to do. What to do once they reach the end of the path, that moment in which, after walking for hours, they reach the end point, feeling that from there on out There is only one continuation and it is the return home.
After all the experience lived on the road, after completing the journey, after discovering the magic present in nature, it simply seems that everything is over. However, it is the moment in which new plans begin, when on many occasions pilgrims consider what will be their future. your next route or if, finally, once you have finished the journey, it is time to put in order all those thoughts that have arisen during the journey to implement them in your daily life. Each pilgrim lives the experience of the Camino de Santiago in a completely unique way.”
THE ABOVE PASSAGE WAS TAKEN FROM THE ASSOCIATION BELOW
The above pretty much captures it for me, though I should add what a privilege it is too.Being of vintage years means you are constantly being overtaken by other, often much younger Pelegrinos – I take time to smell the flowers.From a few days ago.This banner is hung across the entrance to the famous Alameda park. I have noticed in Galicia there is some real “political awareness” demonstrated not just by individuals, but by local councils too.THURSDAY Waking up and realising that you don’t have to pack! Leisurely breakfast,a stroll along fondly remembered streets and noticing how much brighter and replete with Camino momentoes the shops are,even compared with two years ago. We all met up at 11 .00 in the cathedral square for a group photo and then walked down to the Pilgrim office to obtain our Compostelas. This was easy as we were directed as a group, to a purposely designed section. An attendant took us to one of the many computers available where we entered basic information . A ticket was produced which we took to the counter. Our pilgrim passports ( collected earlier ) were returned to us, with a final stamp and our Compostelas. We purchased the tubes for €2.00 ,rolled up the Compostelas and we were on our way.
Passed a cool fountain just before the exit.
Sharon’s arrangement of our Compostelas and 😎
Tinto Verano has become a firm favourite.€18.oo on the terrace at Romero’s
The Alameda is a green oasis and behind it has been erected an enormous wheel – great way to see all the sights I should think.
We had our “ sights” set on a pair of sisters.
It is entitled the “ The Two Marias”
So after a couple of poses, a fellow Pelegrina took this group photo and we remembered our own two Pelegrina-sisters who returned home a few days earlier, for work reasons,Anita and Maggie”.
AN ASSORTMENT OF MEMORABLE SCENES FROM THE GROUP
Acoustic singing in a tiny square in S de C.Rob,Mike and Dave on the path.A chapel typical of those found on the Camino in Galicia.A Cruceiro in front of an imposing Vivienda on the river Douro.Excuse my back…An impressive gatewayAnother enviable, riverside dwelling.Smile for the cameraResisted the temptation to buy itSo many sculptures along the CaminoRob playing the piano in Vila Nova – aptly named as we celebrated Aston Villa’s European triumph .First night in PortoLots of waterways in GaliciaHorreos and a sunny crew
Hi John, we have loved joining you on the Camino and it is special to be part of an amazing Group 😀🏃♀️ I am so glad to have been able to walk with Maggie from Viana to Vila Nova de Cerveira – that feels very special 😀
Hi All, hope your journeys home went smoothly and you’ve arrived safely. Our bus journey to Porto was fine and found our Airbnb. Thank you again for a wonderful Camino. David and Rita 🏃♀️😀
All together now….Thanks for sharing the photos. Muchas Gracias to all the Camigos for their company,consideration,good humour, perseverance and willing to try things new – it was a pleasure to walk ( usually behind ) them!Home and my David Austin “ PILGRIM “ rose in ascendancy.
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