CANTABRIA BOUND ON BRITTANY FERRIES;PORTSMOUTH TO BILBAO

18 Jul
The embarkation process was quite swift and we were soon aboard The GALICIA. It was surprisingly quiet on board,considering the imminence of the school holidays. We enjoyed our Al fresco Dinner with great views along the widening harbour as we departed .

The main bar, is typical of these ships, is given over to “ entertainment “ – I popped by for a while and enjoyed the quizzes chaired by a very enthusiastic young lady – none of your paper and pencil pub quiz , but all facilitated electronically .Answers to the multi choice questions eg “ collective nouns – choose the noun for a collection of owls,”were sent directly to the “ leaderboard “ on the stage – very impressive,with scores being displayed through the rounds.

https://youtu.be/v7NlS-f29xM?is=R9J0py9FUSFQB9O6

“Hey Lord Don’t Ask Me No Questions” by Graham Parker

Horreos-iconic grain stores

Unsurprisingly, the theme aboard the Galicia was The Camino – I felt quite at home – even the glass panels on the staircase reflected thematic images and Camino routes.

The “ Reserved Seating Lounge” was called El Albergue…now that was an irony, my uncomfortable memories of using albergues was quite at odds with the plushness hereabouts.


Spinnaker Tower: Located at Gunwharf Quays, this 170-meter landmark features a high-speed glass elevator and a glass “sky walk” offering views spanning up to 23 miles. 

I don’t know Portsmouth or even the area around it first hand – Lord Nelson and The Royal Navy mainly – but it has an interesting history beyond those two facets and an ecological value,too. A quick glance at Wikipedia for the facts….

https://youtu.be/3Q3j-i7GLr0?is=kFP6QRU1iCStitVA

CROSBY,STILLS AND NASH Sing “ Wooden Ships”.

Portsmouth Harbour is a large natural harbour between Portsmouth and Gosport in Hampshire, England,[1][2] covering an area of 12.6 km2(4.9 sq mi). It is a biological Site of Special Scientific Interest, a Ramsar site[3] and a Special Protection Area.[4.The harbour’s mouth opens into the Solent. Geographically, the harbour is a ria( a term we associate with Galicia mainly)formerly it was the valley of a stream flowing from Portsdown into the Solent. At its north end is Portchester Castle, of Roman origin and the first fortress built to protect the harbour.

Gun emplacement

The harbour is best known as the home of the Royal Navy, HMNB Portsmouth. Because of its strategic location on the south coast of England, protected by the natural defence of the Isle of Wight, it has since the Middle Ages been the home to England’s (and later Britain’s) navy. The narrow entrance, and the forts surrounding it gave it a considerable advantage of being virtually impregnable to attack from the sea. Before the fortifications were built the French burned Portsmouth in 1338.[5] During the civil war parliamentary forces were able to carry out a successful cutting-out expedition within the harbour and capture the six-gunned Henrietta Marie.[6]

In modern times, the harbour has become a major commercial ferry port, with regular services to Bilbao, Santander, CaenCherbourg, St Malo, Le HavreThe Channel Islands and the Isle of Wight. There is also a passenger ferry to Gosport. The international ferry port also saw a cruise terminal expansion in 2012 and sees regular cruise ship operations. It is also a major area for leisure sailing. In 2001 the Gunwharf Quays development, was opened on the site of HMS Vernon (a former naval shore establishment.

Friday on the boat passed restfully – reading a novel given to me by Hannah – and a gripping read it was.

This novel is set around 1936 – USA ninety years on…is it in a worse or better place?

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=_ds3MvMUdNk&si=SDlNb_dvR_QB3AMl

Mr Red,White and Blue by Coffey Anderson.

In a comfortable seat by the panoramic windows that looked out on to what eventually became the Bay of Biscay. The view was mainly of a dappled, light blue sea,rippling calmly…quite soporific.

The Bay of Biscay was the calmest I have experienced ; lying in your bunk at night you would not think you were on the ocean.

“ The Sea” by Sandy Denny

Disembarkation was quicker than anticipated and we were not asked for fingerprints, just out of the car for a photograph by the frontier police and a cheery “adios”.

;

28/05/26 – Recreative Day in Santiago de Compostela and some final thoughts and photos.

30 May
I stopped here years ago and a Portuguese Pelegrina took my photo, below, by the Sampaio bridge.
A poncho saved from a New York City open top bus tour.

Once you reach the end of the Camino de Santiago, is it really over?

“It does not matter the route you have chosen to do the Camino de Santiago. There are many routes to follow the path that take us to the same point, the clear destination being to reach Santiago. However, what happens with many pilgrims is not knowing what to do. What to do once they reach the end of the path, that moment in which, after walking for hours, they reach the end point, feeling that from there on out There is only one continuation and it is the return home.

After all the experience lived on the road, after completing the journey, after discovering the magic present in nature, it simply seems that everything is over. However, it is the moment in which new plans begin, when on many occasions pilgrims consider what will be their future. your next route or if, finally, once you have finished the journey, it is time to put in order all those thoughts that have arisen during the journey to implement them in your daily life. Each pilgrim lives the experience of the Camino de Santiago in a completely unique way.”

THE ABOVE PASSAGE WAS TAKEN FROM THE ASSOCIATION BELOW

The above pretty much captures it for me, though I should add what a privilege it is too.
Being of vintage years means you are constantly being overtaken by other, often much younger Pelegrinos – I take time to smell the flowers.
From a few days ago.
This banner is hung across the entrance to the famous Alameda park. I have noticed in Galicia there is some real “political awareness” demonstrated not just by individuals, but by local councils too.
THURSDAY
Waking up and realising that you don’t have to pack!
Leisurely breakfast,a stroll along fondly remembered streets and noticing how much brighter and replete with Camino momentoes the shops are,even compared with two years ago.

We all met up at 11 .00 in the cathedral square for a group photo and then walked down to the Pilgrim office to obtain our Compostelas.

This was easy as we were directed as a group, to a purposely designed section. An attendant took us to one of the many computers available where we entered basic information . A ticket was produced which we took to the counter. Our pilgrim passports ( collected earlier ) were returned to us, with a final stamp and our Compostelas. We purchased the tubes for €2.00 ,rolled up the Compostelas and we were on our way.

Passed a cool fountain just before the exit.

Sharon’s arrangement of our Compostelas and 😎

Tinto Verano has become a firm favourite.
€18.oo on the terrace at Romero’s

The Alameda is a green oasis and behind it has been erected an enormous wheel – great way to see all the sights I should think.

We had our “ sights” set on a pair of sisters.

It is entitled the “ The Two Marias” 

So after a couple of poses, a fellow Pelegrina took this group photo and we remembered our own two Pelegrina-sisters who returned home a few days earlier, for work reasons,Anita  and Maggie”.

AN ASSORTMENT OF MEMORABLE SCENES FROM THE GROUP

Acoustic singing in a tiny square in S de C.
Rob,Mike and Dave on the path.
A chapel typical of those found on the Camino in Galicia.
A Cruceiro in front of an imposing Vivienda on the river Douro.
Excuse my back…
An impressive gateway
Another enviable, riverside dwelling.
Smile for the camera
Resisted the temptation to buy it
So many sculptures along the Camino
Rob playing the piano in Vila Nova – aptly named as we celebrated Aston Villa’s European triumph .
First night in Porto
Lots of waterways in Galicia
Horreos and a sunny crew

Hi John, we have loved joining you on the Camino and it is special to be part of an amazing Group 😀🏃‍♀️
I am so glad to have been able to walk with Maggie from Viana to Vila Nova de Cerveira – that feels very special 😀

Hi All, hope your journeys home went smoothly and you’ve arrived safely. Our bus journey to Porto was fine and found our Airbnb. Thank you again for a wonderful Camino. David and Rita 🏃‍♀️😀

All together now….Thanks for sharing the photos. Muchas Gracias to all the Camigos for their company,consideration,good humour, perseverance and willing to try things new – it was a pleasure to walk ( usually behind ) them!
Home and my David Austin “ PILGRIM “ rose in ascendancy.

THE FINAL STAGE – PADRON TO SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA.

28 May
After a cheerful reception in a local patisserie and breakfast ,we set off around 08.45 on our last,saunter.
There is always a mountain in the distance and as far as we’re concerned that’s the best place for them, beautiful as they are.
Sponsored by Estrella Galicia
Represents the increasing number of Peregrinas on the Camino these days rather well.
About 2 km out of Padron, on the N550 we came across the hotel a number of us stayed in on the first Sutton Coldfield Ramblers’ Camino, memorable for Hannah’s assistance to a bewildered waiter trying to make sense of the dinner orders for 25 SC Ramblers.
He responded by gifting us four jugs of Orujo at the end of the meal.
The Cruceiro above and the “ snail” were positioned in a garden
More mountains and vines
Classic HORREOS
We were approaching a very famous church on the Portuguese Camino, whose twin towers are in the distance.

CHURCH SANTUARIO DA ESCRAVITUDE


This shrine is just 5 km from Padrón on the way to Santiago de Compostela, on the right. It is worth highlighting the fountain that is under its impressive stairway, which tells an interesting and miraculous story.
It is about an ill man that was travelling along the Way of St. James in the hope of being healed of his dropsy. He stopped at the fountain to have a drink and was miraculously cured without seeing a doctor 72 hours later. He then said, “Thank you, Our Lady, for taking away the ailment”.
This then became the story that gave origin to this sanctuary, and which ultimately began the construction of this structure thanks to an xx cart that the pilgrim donated for his gratitude. The project was completed in 1886.
The project that had begun in the sixteenth century was completed when a shepherd placed an image of Our Lady with Baby Jesus in appreciation of a favour that he received from her.
The altar
St James
The Vigo to Santiago railway line parallel to the church & N550.
Another lovely setting for a villa
Peregrinos walking towards S de C still glimpse of the railway
Another “ tropical” shrub
Coffee stop
A later beer stop
Our three Camigos outside the S de C cathedral and they deserved to look so pleased – what an achievement!
End of Camino celebration meal
And it’s good night from him.

26/05/26 CALDAS DE REI TO PADRON PENULTIMATE STAGE OF THE CAMINO

27 May
A Misty Start
Impressive traffic bridge
An older, impressive Horreos
Sky slowly clearing as sauntered along quiet lanes and small hamlets
An impressive setting
Looking for…..in the churchyard
Galician cottage flower borders
Enjoyable refreshments stop – Rob translated Fogar as “ hearth” so perhaps that evokes a warm welcome.
Galicia in the sunshine is hard to beat…but some might say I’m prejudiced!
Vines lifted and grown on these archetypal granite supports are to prevent disease caused by lack of air circulation – I liked the potatos planted beneath.
A typical,Portuguese Camino trail
Country style manual labour – weed clearance- reminded me of the state my allotment might be in when I get back
Not to mention the hot weather’s effect back in the UK
The Caminos came centuries before autovias
Mountains, blue skies …enough said.
View from our second cafe stop – Kas Limon and a banana
A traditional Galician Cemetorio
Looking towards Pontesecures, a village bordering Padron
A ceramics factory and round the next bend in the river is a paper mill
The paper mill
A tradition village clothes washing place
A wall entirely smothered by this bee friendly epic
Crossing the river into Padron
A church erected on a hill in a place where the apostle allegedly preached
The traditional,tale is that after Santiago’s body was recovered it was brought here by boat and tied to a stone – hence PADRON – it is kept in the Santiago chuch just to the right.
Everyone enjoyed today’s stage and we now have only one day to go until we reach Santiago de Compostela.

SAN AMARO TO CALDAS DE REIS…..NEARER AND NEARER

26 May
One of the more unusual warning notices
The aforementioned chapel
A classic, village wash place
Cruceiros far more common in Galicia
Take note….
A Spanish high speed railway adjacent to a vineyard.
Interesting ways of furrowing and look at the colour of the soil.
The foal,was just scathing it’s back with delight
Busy coffee stop
51 + KM on the Camino !
Vineyards began to multiply
A mountain scape
In praise of Estrella Galicia… Cheers!🍺
A very noticeable demographic of this Camino - lots of teenagers, tattoos and Joie de vivre.
Lambs deep in thought
Caldas de Reis not far away
Always a pleasure to be here
Hot Springs of the Kings.

SUNDAY 24 th May and it was hills in the heat from Redondela to Pontevedra.

25 May
About 85 KM to Santiago de Compostela
We started walking at 08.40 from the outskirts of Redondela. We had not gone very far when we came to a road on which was parked a tour bus right by the Camino. Out spilled a crowd of Turigrinos,probably from a cruise ship moored in nearby Vigo. They were all crisply dressed as if going to a Christening, rather than on a “ Camino Taster”. This group added to the large groups of Pelegrinos whose numbers are swelled by those joining from the central route. Thankfully, the numbers thinned out, especially after the first hill.
A bit of a shock as they turned the corner and began an ascent of 145 metres followed by a tricky descent. Depending on where people started from, eg Lisbon or Porto, I noticed some walkers along the way with foot wear off, attending to blisters and one lady I had chatted to the other day, had an impromptu ice pack on her shoulder. Understandably distance and heat contributed to these growing occurrences.
Occasional glimpses of the VIGO bridge across the Ria
Stones and boulders in places.
I felt a twinge on one of my toes – empathy?

After descending the hill and coffee on the edge of Arcade, we crossed over a beautiful bridge with an interesting history.

Although the origins of the bridge are Roman, there are no traces remaining from this period. The current structure belongs to the Middle Ages. It is a long construction with ten arcades, between which there are breakwaters. On a historical note, the battle of Ponte Sampaio against the French in 1809 took place on this bridge. The beauty of the landscape at this point is outstanding, and it offers beautiful views of the Peneda del Viso and the estuary of the Verdugo river.

Breakwaters

I stood here thirteen years ago, main difference being the weather – it was pouring down and I was in a very primitive poncho. Thanks to Dave for taking the photo.
Terrapins in a fountain dedicated to Santiago!
A lot of Eucalyptus in Galicia
A break in the forestry and some vines thriving.
Spot the frogs – the loud croaking could be heard 25 metres away!
These three statues were incongruously placed in front of a childrens’ play area on the main road into Pontevedra.
Graffiti on a pedestrian walkway towards our hotel for the night.
Handy balcony for clothes drying.

https://www.visit-pontevedra.com/ This is a locally printed guide with links to all the varied and interesting aspects of the city.

To O Porrino – photos from group members- and a Friday farewell to two of our group – Anita & Maggie.

23 May
The Horreos makes a fine background
We all enjoyed the space an apartment gives
Our Al fresco dinner and a memorable evening
We shall miss our two sisters,Maggie and Anita – their first Camino which they are determined to finish hopefully next year .
After waving our two Camigas good bye we’re on our way to Redondela .
A famous local architect
A show stopping mural brightening up the underpass.
I kept checking the marker stones for 100 KM to go.
An unusual shrub
After over two hours walking we found coffee and Tomato Tostada in a lovely village called Mos
The start of the hilly section – first real hills of the Camino.
Climbing up was OK albeit warm work, but none of us had experienced a downhill gradient as tough as this one.
That’s the Ria at the top of the photo
Eye catching
The rustic suburbs of Redondela were very pleasant and I particularly liked this villa and its backdrop.
Edge of the town
Redondela has two of these impressive railway crossings.
Casa Teresa our lodgings for the night
Garden terrace section
The lounge
VIEW FROM THE BEDROOM.Not sure if the pigeons have been having shooting practice or is she just a little sun ravaged

A TWO DAY SAUNTER ALONG THE CAMINO MINHO….Caminha to Tui,via Valenca.

22 May
The train from Viana do Castelo to Caminha…Ticket €3.10 only

This is a fantastic trail that starts in Caminha and extends to Valença, providing an ideal experience for hiking, biking, and running. This route represents the original variation of the Portuguese Coastal Way, moving away from the coast.

Ecopista – Caminho do Rio (River Trail) is an experience of contrasting landscapes that shows us a diverse reality and leads us through the memory of time to the relationship between Man and the Minho River, providing the full enjoyment of a ‘greenway’ that crosses Vila Nova de Cerveira and connects this territory to the municipalities of Valença and Caminha.
The natural conditions along this route allow for the presence of various bird species such as the mallard, heron, cormorant, and kingfisher; mammals such as the otter and marten; amphibians such as the green frog, newt, and salamander; and fish such as the Iberian barbel, chub, and trout. It is due to its importance and natural diversity that the River Trail is integrated into the Natura 2000 Network and the Waterbird Protection Area of the Minho River estuary.
Caminha Station
Estuary at Caminha
Sao Bento at Seixas – Coffee stop
Walking on alongside the River Minho
Cruceiro in front of a riverside villa
Chapel
Between the fishermen’s houses
Lunch break at Cafe Rio
Mountains in the distance
Approaching Vila Nove de Cerveira
With more sculptures to come as Vila Nova styles itself as a city of Arts.
A new bridge crossing the Minho into Espana.
State of the art recreational complex.
Nearing our hotel.
INATEL Cerveira hotel
RECEPTION
Dinner Menu – good value at €21.00 we thought.
We were watching Aston Villa versus Frieburg in the Europa cup final from Istanbul.
3 – 0 to the Villa! Cheers and celebrations
Rob brilliantly playing a medley including CONGRATULATIONS .

The next day after an other buffet…this time breakfast, we continued our way towards Valenca

Across the river at Lovelhe,looking at Spain
Some shade at times
Leaving the Cerveira section of the Ecovia
Valenca in the distance
Outskirts of Valenca and we were all desperate for a cafe…any cafe!
Intermarche’s cafe was just the job and cheap as chips and who are you looking at?
Anita entering the Forteleza..
A border town located on the banks of the Minho River, Valença is surrounded by walls and retains the characteristics of a 17th-18th century fortified city, designed in the style of the French architect Vauban. 
Its original name was “Contrasta,” meaning a town opposite another, due to its location across the Minho River from the Galician city of Tui. 
Today, it is a city with a thriving trade, particularly known for its highly valued local crafts.

I don”t know if towels and bargain packs of socks count as crafts but we didn’t come all this way for them!
Crossing the INTERNATIONAL Bridge to Spain

HOTEL CRUCEIRO DO MONTE – A very friendly place for Thursday 21st night halt.

View from a little bar just down the road from the hotel .
Perfect for APERITIVOS and tapas.

DAY VI ON THE PORTUGUES COASTAL CAMINO – A Rest Day in a fine city.

19 May
After breakfast and in the drizzle, our thinking was waterproofs, shortish walk to museums, and the like.
Using the city map we went to the interpretative Centre for the Portuguese Camino .
This is located in a 16 th century , former hospital.
Our route on screen.
Walk This Way
Courtyard of the hospital
A video presentation about the origins and development of Viana do Castelo.
A fountain on the outside wall of the centre
Still some mizzle as the say in the commentary box.
The Cathedral
An understated cathedral.
Bowls of flowers outside the cathedral – everywhere in Viana we enjoyed floral displays ,like Esposende yesterday.
A typical Rua

The Statue of Viana is an 18th-century monument, commissioned in 1774 by José António Freire de Andrade, Governor of Arms of the province of Minho, 3rd Count of Bobadela.
The Rococo-style statue depicts a female figure in flowing robes, holding a caravel, which dominates the entire ensemble, symbolizing Viana do Castelo and its maritime heritage.
The four busts that crown the corners of the pedestal symbolize the European, Asian, African, and American continents, alluding to the “four corners of the world” and the seafaring and mercantile tradition of the people of Viana.
The lengthy Jardim de Marginal
Always some tiles featured
The Bandstand
A grand gateway
Another imposing entrance.
Keep up next door!

Viana do Castelo railway station

Next to a shopping mall that we passed en route to the funicular.
To get us up the mountain side
Wonderful views.
St Luzia
Dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus
Information Board
There has been a funicular here since 1923 – that’s an original.
Crossing over the railway station on the way back .
Local elections- same kind of promises.
Called in for a quick refresher
The wall decoration opposite our Lift entrance on the second floor, based on the St Luzia rose windows.
The aquarium in our restaurant
A classic seafood meal together.
Night or day, rain or shine , Viana do Castelo always casts its spell.

DAY V ON THE PORTUGUESE CAMINO. From Esposende to Viana do Castelo.

19 May
A short walk from the guest house brought us to the main square.
SCULPTURES
AND FLOWERS
Welcome to breakfast
A friendly venue and a table in the sunshine.
San Roque featured in the Parish church and as we walked further on , being slightly inland from the Atlantic evoked a more Camino like atmosphere.
What a gateway.
Rob viewing the information board
Santo Amaro was a well loved figure here.
Santiago is even more loved on the Camino.
Moving through the Antas district we were on woodland paths and by now it was warm enough to walk in shirt sleeves or T- shirt – no ocean breeze but pleasant sunshine.
Following the arrows we went left..
We could hear the sound of the river before we saw it below us .
Our crossing point – in winter times apparently the water can cover this bridge, but today there was no problem.
Going right we began a gentle ascent.
The ocean in view from Castelo do Neivo.
Left again.
Black and white goats
We found a Rua that led us to coffee
Imposing, modern sculpture by a local apparently
Backcloth in the coffee shop
Pasta del Nata – it had a real depth too,it unlike the pale imitations we get at home.
Another sighting of the Atlantic
A gatherings of lilies in a cool,shady spot under a high wall.
St James in his niche with colourful flowers.
A close up.
The oldest temple dedicated to Saint James outside of Spanish territory. It was consecrated by Bishop Naustus in the year 862, shortly after the discovery of the Apostle’s tomb.
I think I prefer my poles to his wobbly looking stick!
We are starting from the bottom..
And upwards it was…
Mike and Rob making their way upwards,however the next few hundred metres became tricky, as the path was strewn with rocks and boulders, so we took our time and gingerly picked our way through.
Another impressive church towards the end of the climb
Sao Romao de Neiva – a place of particular devotion.
Many penitents make their way up these steps on their knees- none of the passing Pelegrinos took up the challenge.
A small vineyard in a clearing in the woods, as we walked on through small, sleepy hamlets featuring some hand some villas.
And some strikingly coloured shrubs.
The lanes sometimes featured crucifixes embedded in the walls.
This was a surprise – a storks’ nest.
Viana do Castelo and its environs
The bridge over the Minho designed by Eiffel.
Hotel Laranjeiro for two nights to enable a “ rest day” on Tuesday.

A colourful evening meat at Sancho Panza with flaming Portuguese/Brazilian Chorizo for starters – don’t try this at home!