A colourful evening meat at Sancho Panza with flaming Portuguese/Brazilian Chorizo for starters – don’t try this at home!
DAY V ON THE PORTUGUESE CAMINO. From Esposende to Viana do Castelo.
19 May
DAY IV ON THE CAMINO PORTUGUESE. Vila do Conde to Esposende.
18 May
Today’s Etape was long in prospect. Most of the group set off before 08.00 with the intention of walking the whole way, 16 miles or so,taking in breakfast en route. Rob and I felt that we would need to shorten the stretch by five miles. We found breakfast quite quickly and pleased to find somewhere open that early on a Sunday.
This helped our understanding and appreciation of the striking tile tableau depicting Povoa’s maritime history with an emphasis on the long established fishing industry.
DAY III – Portuguese Camino, Saturday 16th May,Matasinhos – Vila do Conde,23KM in a sunny breeze.
16 May
Started off through quiet streets , a contrast to Porto.
Located in the heart of Vila do Conde, at the intersection of the serene waters of the Ave River and the grandeur of the ocean, stands the hotel housed in the historic Santa Clara Monastery.
Its uniqueness lies not only in its remarkable architecture, but also in its ability to combine historical legacy with contemporary comfort and sophistication. This magnificent building, with its neoclassical features and exquisite symmetry, is a testament to the passage of time and radiates an imposing presence. Its origins date back to 1318, the result of a dream of its founders; however, the Monastery as we know it today is the result of several renovation works that took place in the 18th century.
Day II ON THE PORTUGUESE COASTAL CAMINO – Porto to Matosinhos.
15 May
Extravagantly good breakfast at the Log Hotel,Porto. A mornings respite in Porto afoot, before meeting at the cathedral 14..00 to walk to Matasinhos….the Camino proper begins. Rob,Mike and I took the bus into town for €2.50 and we soon found our way into the historic centre.
Campanha Station in Porto is one of Portugal’s most important railway landmarks, combining history and functionality in a structure that serves as a vital link for transportation in the northern region of the country. Inaugurated in 1875, the station retains a classic charm with traditional architectural elements, making it an essential point for those arriving in the city.
Although the title of the main train station of Porto belongs to Campanha, Sao Bento Railway station has something else to pride itself on – the spectacular interiors and fascinating history. The beautiful building that houses the station was once home to the 16th-century monastery, the Convent of Sao Bento da Ave Maria.
Unfortunately, the original building was demolished in 1896, but it’s hard to regret it, as the beautiful neoclassical complex that was built instead is truly a work of art.
Even if you are not planning to take a train in Porto, Sao Bento rail station is worth stopping by to admire its amazing decorations. The main hall is a splendid sight as it’s adorned with over 2000 azulejo tiles, depicting the history of Portugal.
As forecast we experienced a spot of drizzle, as after a welcome coffee, we made our way past the Cathedral,across the bridge; our intention was to enjoy the views along the Douro and to catch the cable car down to the PORT side of the city.
Dom Luis BridgeThe most famous bridge in Porto, the Dom Luis Bridge, was designed by Théophile Seyrig, a co-founder of Eiffel and Company alongside Gustave Eiffel. Its sweeping iron arch and panoramic upper walkway provide some of the most breathtaking views in the city.
The Gaia Cable Car, or Teleférico de Gaia, is a monocable gondola lift located in Vila Nova de Gaia, across the Douro river from the Portuguese city of Porto. The upper station is located next to Jardim do Morro station of the Porto Metro, the upper level of the Dom Luís I Bridge, and the Serra do Pilar Monastery. The lower station is on the riverside promenade of Cais de Gaia, with several nearby Port wine cellars, along with restaurants, cafes and a departure point for Douro river cruises.
The line was built by Doppelmayr at a cost of €12 million, and is operated by the company Telef – Transportes por Cabo e Concessões, SA. Construction commenced in March 2009, and the line entered service in April 2011. As of November 2024, the line runs every day except Christmas Day, with services starting at 10:00 and ending between 18:00 and 20:00.
Matasinhos has a deserved reputation for its fish and seafood.
DAY ONE – The Beginning of the Portugues Camino – Calm start.
15 May
Thursday,14 th May,2026
After a taxi ride,organised by Mike and shared also with Sharon and Rob, we arrived at Birmingham International in good time. Surprisingly quiet in the “ Drop Off “ zone and even more deserted at the Jet2 Check- in point. The time from dropping of the hold luggage to exiting Security was less than 20 painless minutes! Fastest yet.
It occurred to me that the reason everywhere was so relatively quiet was possibly because the Wetherspoons was rammed with passengers, with a queue to boot.
So with two hours to kill, we found a quieter coffee spot, having met up with Rita and Dave in Departures. We have all exchanged the expression “ small world” after a conversation, which came to pass when Dave realised that he and I had both attended St Philip’s Grammar School. Dave being younger than me ( like most people) started a few years after me, but happened to remark that he had a cousin who had attended at the same time as me. He said his cousin had gone on to become the Headteacher of Holy Cross School, Walmley – this immediately rang a bell.
“ Your cousin wasn’t Paul King was it?”
“ Yes” he replied in astonishment.
“ I was his “ best man” “, I replied.
I went on to describe Paul and our friendship of close on 70 years ….
“ Well, I”ll be….”
Small World” indeed.
Already the Camino was springing pleasant surprises….
Not quite so pleasant was the 45 minute delay to take-off, however some time was made up and we arrived in good time.
A francesinha (meaning “little Frenchie”) is an iconic Portuguese sandwich originating from Porto, developed in the 1950s as a local take on the French croque monsieur. It is a massive, high-calorie, toasted sandwich made with thick bread, filled with various meats—typically steak, ham, sausage, and linguiça—covered in melted cheese, and smothered in a rich, spicy tomato-and-beer sauce.
Just a Song Before I Go …One of CSN’s Finest Songs..IMHO😅 Plus the Camino
9 May
https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=AYRjvH1NGVo&si=wI2E5j64Nf_mA1Eh
“Just a song before I go
To whom it may concern
Traveling twice the speed of sound
It’s easy to get burned
When the shows were over
We had to get back home
And when we opened up the door
I had to be alone
She helped me with my suitcase
She stands before my eyes
Driving me to the airport
And to the friendly skies
Going through security
I held her for so long
She finally looked at me in love
And she was gone
Just a song before I go
A lesson to be learned
Traveling twice the speed of sound
It’s easy to get burned”.
Last Blog this side of Porto I promise.
As you may know,Barbara had a slip and fall last weekend resulting in a new hip on Sunday last, at Heartlands Hospital. We were all extremely grateful for the care she received there. Meantime, I was really concerned about the dilemma that the Camino suddenly presented. “ Should I Stay or Should I Go?” To quote another song title.
It was only after Barbara’s transfer to Solihull Hospital, Thursday 7th May, that things became a little clearer. Solihull is more of a post operative place for patients with surgery like hip replacements.. – REHABILITATION.
Today, Friday 9th May, Hannah and I visited Barbara – Solihull Hospital is more village- like than Heartlands and from our very first steps inside , we felt welcome. ( this is not to decry Heartlands which serves more purposes on a grander scale ). It was just the ambience,I guess.
A hip replacement,from a sudden fall, apparently presents different challenges than those that are long awaited ( sometimes overdue). The recovery time …ie mobility takes longer and can often be more painful at times, which makes regaining mobility a lengthier process. Whilst there, we were fortunate enough to witness nursing carried out patiently and diligently. The bonus for Barbara, Hannah and myself was the chance to talk with the two physio-rehabilitation experts looking after Barbara and gaining some valuable advice on how we might adapt our house to better suit Barbara’s homecoming and continued rehabilitation.
It was only after their appraisal of Barbara’s predisposition and feistiness that we we felt reassured that she was in expert,sympathetic and professional hands …literally. Barbara and Hannah were adamant that I must go on the Camino…
Back home, we began changing rooms etc to facilitate a safer and comfortable setting for Barbara, funnily enough Han and I felt quite energised in what became a “ project” almost….seriously it was mainly about shifting things around ….creatively of course. We are not quite there yet but we know what we want it to be.
It is not possible to predict when Barbara might be home but given present progress, hopefully in a few days’ time.
Saturday 9 th May – this time we drove to Solihull and bought a few days ‘ pass for the car park which was very quiet. Being a Saturday not many day patients and the corridors etc were so quiet we might have been in a convent.
In brief, apart from Hannah and myself , we were pleased to welcome Daniel up again from Berkhamstead and later Vickee and granddaughter Martha at the bedside. Two physios came in ( almost rapturous applause ) and encouraged Barbara on to her feet and lots of steps!
Again much credit to the professionals and Barbara’s grit and determination.
And ,so it came to pass that we eventually went back home where Dan and Hannah moved a single bed downstairs to Barbara’s temporary bedroom. Very impressed. We all felt we had seen great progress in terms of mobility and self belief today.
——————————————————————————————
BACK TO THE CAMINO
We shall all walk at our own pace, I would only offer this piece of advice which is to take a bag- break at least every hour, enjoy refreshments despite necessity and smell,the flowers,
It would be unreasonable to assume we should all arrive at our digs at the same time , but please don’t check in until I get there, as confusion can arise about whose rooms are whose…Receptionists understandably won’t know our circumstances.
Look forward to the meet up at Birmingham International Airport on Thursday 14 th.
“I’m dreaming of roads.”
– Antonio Machado –
I’m dreaming of roads
of the afternoon. The Hills
gold, the pine green,
the dusty hens!…
Where will the road lead?
I’m singing, traveler
along the path…
-the afternoon is falling-.
“In the heart I had
the thorn of a passion;
I managed to pull it off one day:
I don’t feel the heart anymore.”
And the whole field for a moment
It stays mute and gloomy,
meditating. The wind blows
on the banks of the river
Evening gets darker;
and the path that slips
and weakly bleach
it blurs and disappears.
My singing is whining again:
“A sharp golden thorn,
who could feel you
nailed to the heart”.
First of May – a look back at past Portuguese Caminos – and a hearty updated folk song to begin…
1 May
https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=9Ruvmo5bCGg&si=_d-n1YvCMyDJgmSX
Take the scorn and wear the horns
It was the crest when you were born
Your father’s father wore it
And your father wore it too
Robin Hood and Little John
Have both gone to the fair-o
We shall to the merry green wood
To hunt the buck and hare-o
Hal-an-Tow, jolly rumbelow
We were up long before the day-o
To welcome in the summertime
To welcome in the May-o
For summer is coming in
And winter’s gone away
What happened to the Spaniards
That made so great a boast-o?
They shall eat the feathered goose
And we shall eat the roast-o
God bless Aunt Mary Moses
With all her power and might-o
Send us peace in England
Send us peace by day and night-o
Well, if old folk songs sniff of nostalgia, then recalling Caminos walked this century could be politely termed “ recent history.” As with any look back,there comes context because despite familarity there are always differences.For example,I have walked the Camino Ingles from Ferrol to S de C twice with two totally different groups and although both were great saunters, they were still unique in the experiences, conversations and meetings that took place.
Hence, I invite you to look back on Caminos Portuguese from the past that I blogged about – I would say from the outset that WordPress is much improved if not the content – I shall try to evoke both the time and the context. The first recollection is a Blog I wrote eight years after it took place – in 2012 I only had a notebook – so I decided in 2020 to write up the “ lost Caminos “. This is a long blog as I tried to tackle the entire Camino in one post!
The Portuguese Internal Camino from Porto 2012
From John the Baptist lookalikes to meetings with Portuguese pelegrinas, memories of my roommate Mac, to a memorable t- shirt and a NEW YORK yellow poncho, this was also where I took the phrase “ ensuitepilgrim “ the title of the blog pages since.
Caminho Portuguese – Coastal Route)
This is really a summary of preparations back in the days when I carried all my stuff….for the last time as it turned out!
Oporto to Santiago de Compostella – September 2013….
This was my only “ solo” Camino and it is memorable for the kindnesses I received en route and also the solitude which I found strange at first and then I slipped easily into that mode. I confess to using my I-pod along the way, mainly listening to a Camino soundtrack I had compiled.
. “High On The Skyline”. THE NEW MENDICANTS ( this is not a monastic order! )
” Soul Shoes”. GRAHAM PARKER
“You Better Move On”. ARTHUR ALEXANDER
“One More Cup of Coffee”. CALEXICO & ROGER McGOUGH
“True Love & High Adventure” GRAND DRIVE
“There Goes the Sun”. PERNICE BROTHERS
“The Lower Road. THEA GILMORE featuring JOAN BAEZ
“It Will Be a Good Day” YES
“Ends of the Earth” LORD HURON
“Everyman Needs a Companion” Fr JOHN MISTY
“Sangre de Cristo”. SCUD MOUNTAIN BOYS
“Wild Places”. COLIN BLUNSTONE
“Travelling Alone”. TIFT MERRITT
“Walk Like a Giant”. NEIL YOUNG
“Mr Blue Sky”. TONY DISCONTI ( Jeff Lynne Tribute)
“Jesus is a Hobo”. CHARLIE PARR
“Down Among the Cove “. DUANE ALLMAN
“June Hymn” THE DECEMBRISTS
“Hot Dusty Roads”. BUFFALO SPRINGFIELD
“Beautiful View”. RON SEXSMITH
“Ramblin’ On My Mind”. ROBERT JOHNSON
“The Sea “. SANDY DENNY
“Crossroads”. RYAN COODER
“Pinches of Salt” ROY HARPER
“Beyond the Shore”. WILLARD GRANT CONSPIRACY
“Into the Great Wide Open”. TOM PETTY
“Waterfalls”. PAUL McCARTNEY
“Ease Down the Road”. BONNIE PRINCE BILLY
“Miles from Nowhere”. CAT STEVENS
“On a Day Like This”. ELBOW
“Restless Feet”. DANNY &THE CHAMPIONS OF THE WORLD
“Wide River to Cross”. LEVON HELM
“As I Roved Out”. JANE SIBERRY
“Going Home”. LEONARD COHEN
I still have it!
“Life’s a road full of ups and downs, but it’s the journey that makes the difference.” Every step we take, every decision we make, every challenge we face, all shapes us and makes us who we are. Life is an adventure and it takes courage to embark on it and keep going even when it gets tough. Life is precious and deserves to be lived with passion and determination. “
by Hape Kerkeling in “I’ll be gone”
SECOND CAMINO PORTUGUESE UPDATE ATM advice and Spanish Vocab.pictures
25 Apr
To avoid ATM fees,use bank-operated machines branded with the Multibanco logo (a blue and green logo), which covers most local banks, including Santander, Millennium BCP, Caixa Geral de Depósitos, and Novobanco. Avoid Euronet ATMs and other privately operated machines (often located in tourist areas) to avoid excessive fees.
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=pfbid0SHnyLUDKMzMzRsn8sTKdi6Y5oYa1cNTxddrdhzRWM6xhQ4nBceQ6WhzfCicR1uCrl&id=100033225196818 The 50th Anniversary of Portugals’Carnation Revolution
CAMINO LINGO: Same advice applies both Portugal & Spain – The Reality on the Camino
After a few days, you discover a beautiful truth:
The Camino has its own language.
It’s a magical mix of Portuguese/Spanish & English, hand gestures, smiles, and pure goodwill.
Most people you meet — in albergues, cafés, bars, shops — are used to pilgrims from everywhere. They’ve heard every accent, every attempt at their language and every creative pronunciation of bocadillo.EG in Spain….
Conversations usually go like this:
“Una cama?”, “Peregrino menu?”,
“Café con leche?”
And somehow… it works.
Plus, many pilgrims speak English. Sometimes you end up at a table with a mini United Nations: Germans, Koreans, Italians, Canadians — everyone speaking their own version of English, Portuguese,Spanish, or enthusiastic mime.
And everyone understands each other perfectly.
The Real Language of the Camino
You’ll learn a few words instantly:
Hola — hello, Gracias — thank you
Bom Camino/ Buen Camino — the sacred greeting that solves everything
Everything else is surprisingly intuitive.
If you don’t understand something, someone nearby or our group will help.
If no one understands anything, you’ll all laugh and figure it out anyway.
https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=cvKmh_jWC5c&si=j3tmhCMhsE1VD9xk BEEGEES AT THEIR BEST – “ WORDS”
WORDS AND PICTURES- SPANISH VOCABULARY – RANDOM!
https://veganderlust.com/what-not-to-do-in-portugal1
This link is amusing in parts with gems like – Don’t Pack Uncomfortable Shoes
What’s your preferred “ learning style”? Try words and pictures for some basic Portuguese & Spanish vocabulary on the Camino.
20 Apr
Well, we have come to the end of the road for destination previews on our Camino and with a month or so to go preparations will be uppermost in our minds.
Poncho – Weight and packability – No zips or pockets means they’re ultra lightweight and packable. Wet weather protection and coverage – Pretty watertight and lots of cover. Very breathable, air flow keeps you cooler. Fit & Style – Loose and flappy, not the most stylish and a little impractical in the wind. Versatility and storage – Can double as a picnic blanket or tarp, usually no storage. Durability – No zips to break but overall less durable, plus flapping and snagging may degrade it faster.
Rain jacket– Weight and packability – Lightweight and packable, but zips and pockets make them bulkier than ponchos. Wet weather protection and coverage – Not as much coverage plus zips can let moisture in, but drawcords and fastenings tamp down the hood, hem and sleeves nicely. Warmth and breathability – Less breathable, snugger fit blocks wind better and keeps you warmer. Fit and style – Can be stylish enough for urban adventures, no annoying flapping. Versatility and storage – Only one function, lots of pockets. Durability – Durable with good treatment, less opportunity to snag on branches.
I shall have enough space to pack both.
FOOD ON THE GO
Some suggested foods to carry on the camino for lunches and snacks:
- Trail mix with nuts, seeds, and dried fruit
- Fresh fruit (apples carry well, bananas are good for muscle cramps with their potassium), grapes.
- Fresh vegetables (cucumbers and tomatoes travel well)
- Bread: fresh baguettes are delicious and inexpensive.
- Ham: so many delicious varieties
- Tins of sardines – worth packing a fork!
- Bags of crisps
- Cheese: also many varieties are available. Ask for a small quantity from a deli (50-100 grams) to avoid waste.
- Hydration en route – plenty of cafes etc normally, but I always dilute 2 x OCR tablets each morning in my own water bottles .
Camino Lingo – in Portugal,even a few years back, I never needed much Portuguese vocab. Just a few, basic terms suffice.
Greetings & Politeness
Olá / Bom dia / Boa tarde / Boa noite: Hello / Good morning / Good afternoon / Good evening.
Por favor: Please.
Obrigado (m) / Obrigada (f): Thank you.
De nada: You’re welcome.
Com licença: Excuse me (to get past/attention).
Desculpe: Sorry/Excuse me (to apologize).
Navigation & Finding Things
Onde fica a casa de banho? Where is the bathroom?.
Onde fica a estação? Where is the station?.
Pode ajudar-me? Can you help me?.
Direita / Esquerda / Direto: Right / Left / Straight.
Essentials & Emergencies
Sim / Não: Yes / No.
Fala Inglês? Do you speak English?.
Não falo português: I don’t speak Portuguese.
Ajuda: Help.
Emergência: Emergency.
Dining & Shopping
Queria… / Eu queria…: I would like….
A conta, por favor: The bill, please.
Um café: A coffee.
Quanto custa? How much does it cost?.
Key Differences
Goodbye: Tchau (casual) or Adeus (formal).
Water: Água.
Breakfast/Lunch/Dinner: Pequeno-almoço / Almoço / Jantar.
In the next Blog,I shall be focusing on Spanish vocabulary- picture style – Here are a few,non pictorial phrases for starters..
USEFUL SPANISH PHRASES
Demasiado – it’s too much eg at mealtimes or the cost of something.
Puedo reservoir…..? Can I book….
Tengo ganas de …..I’ m looking forward to…
Cuesta Mucha …..It’s hard work
Es el major….. It’s one of the best
Hay un / una / unos / …..por aqui ? Is or are there……near here?
Puedo tener …….Can I have ?
Quercia …..I want…dos billetes para Melide , da Ida today
Tengo …I have ….Tengo que ? Do I have to ?
Come se puedo if a …how can one get to ?
Tambien….also
A question hora …at what time
Sale Es proximal autobus …when is the next bus
Sale..leaves. Llega …arrives
Quisiera una habitacione para estanoche – I want a room for the night
Podemos..can we. …..Puedo…can I?
Quisiera reserva una habitacione para dos pelegrinos. Can I book a room for two pilgrims?
Pagan con tarjeta? Pay by card?
Dejar la Mochila aqui? …leave the rucksack here?
Tengo una habitacione reservarda a nombre de …para esta noche. I have rooms booked for a number of..for tonight
Una habitacione double con dos camas – a double room with two single beds
Tienen habitacione libres ? Any rooms free?
Comoros s’escribe? How do you spell it?
Cerca Del…near to …lejos..far
Puedo repetir? Can you repeat that?
Cuanta costa?….How much para un taxi el estacion d’autobus, Santiago?
Barsto..cheap….Caro….dear
Lo siento..I’m sorry
Aqui tiene…here you are …..agora ….now
Tiene sellos – have you stamps?
Me da…can you give me?…Tome…take….siga…follow
Perdone,donde esta el Camino?….Por donde se va a ?…How do you get to?
Estomos perditos…we are lost
Donde Puedo tomar un taxi?…where can I get a taxi?
Hacia el…towards…pasado el,…past the….antes de…before the..busque el…watch for..
Esta aqui…it’s here…esta alli…it’s there….
Estoy..I am…como Es?…what’s it like? Siga..Carry on..
Vale..OK…hasta Luego…see you later….unos…some
Si queremos unas Tapas para compartir…we’d like to share some Tapas
Que Rico….this is delicious….esta buenissimo…it’s very good
Que esta pasando? What’s going in?
Quiero informacion sober …I’d like info. About ..
Hay otro…is there another?
Yo hablo…I speak…. Tambien necessitamos..we also need…
Si tengo..no tengo…yes I have, no I have…si me gusta…yes I like….
Cuanto curl?….how long?
La comida….lunch…la cena….dinner…..voy a tomar – I’m going to have..
Estoy sediento…I’m thirsty….tengo hambre..I’m hungry…
Claro…of course …entonces….then….nosotros…we…Eres….Are you?
Nosotros Somos de Inglaterra
Hay cinque nietos…I have five grandchildren
Soy jubilado,, fin director de una escuela primaria – I am a retired ht..
Me llamo John – my name is…
quel tiempo hace!..what’s the weather like?
Lo siento no se…sorry I don’ know
Un poco Casado…a little tired
Hay una barre aqui?…Mira..look…
Perdone, donde es el hotel….? Excuse me,where is the hotel?
A que distancia esta…How far is…? En pie…on foot…
Buen provecho…Good appetite ..comer …to eat
No entiendo…I don’t understand…trabajo..I work
SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA – What shall we see ? Outstanding Universal Value
13 Apr
HISTORY – A BRIEF SYNTHESIS – Courtesy of UNESCO
Santiago de Compostela (Old Town) is located in Galicia, situated in the far north-west of Spain.
In the beginning of the 9th century, a hermit called Pelagius saw a mysterious light shining over a Roman tomb forgotten in the middle of a forest. Very soon, the incredible news spread all over the Christian world: the tomb of St. James the Greater, the beloved apostle of Jesus Christ, had been discovered in a far site near the finis terrae, the end of the known Earth, in the northwest of Iberian Peninsula. A few years later, this site became a famous pilgrimage town, one of the most important of Christianity. Pilgrims came from all over Europe following the Camino de Santiago to reach the city born around the Holy Tomb, exercising a great influence on the surrounding area. This is evidenced in the small towns, churches, hospitals, and monasteries that were built near the Camino to attend to the thousands of pilgrims who came to visit the tomb. This influence in the local architecture and art was especially strong and long-lasting in the north-west of Spain, but the fame and the reputation of the sanctuary of Santiago de Compostela went well beyond; Galicia was even known in the Nordic sagas as Jakobsland.
This famous pilgrimage site also became a symbol in the Spanish Christians’ struggle against Islam. Destroyed by the Muslims at the end of the 10th century, it was completely rebuilt in the following century.
The Old Town of Santiago de Compostela, together with the outlying Santa Maria de Conxo Monastery, constitutes an extraordinary ensemble of distinguished monuments. The squares and narrow streets of the Old Town contain Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, and Neoclassicist buildings. This town is not only a harmonious and very well preserved historical city, but also a place deeply imbued with faith. The cathedral, considered as a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture, keeps the remarkable Pórtico de la Gloria, a jewel of the medieval sculpture. However, the authentic symbol of the city is the Baroque western façade of the cathedral, which forms one of the sides of the square of Obradoiro, one of the world´s most beautiful urban areas.
Tympanum and entrance of the Pórtico de la Gloria
The phenomenon of pilgrimage is not only a relevant historical fact, but also a continuous movement thanks to the celebration of the Holy Years.
Criterion (i): Around its cathedral, which is a world renowned masterpiece of Romanesque art, Santiago de Compostela conserves a valuable historic centre, known as one of Christianity´s greatest holy cities. All European cultural and artistic currents, from the Middle Ages to the present day, left extraordinary works of art in Santiago de Compostela.
Criterion (ii): During both the Romanesque and Baroque periods, the sanctuary of Santiago de Compostela exerted a decisive influence on the development of architecture and art, not only in Galicia, but also in the north of the Iberian Peninsula.
Criterion (vi): Santiago de Compostela is associated with one of the major themes of medieval history. From the shores of the North and Baltic Seas, thousands of pilgrims carrying the symbol of the scallop and the pilgrim’s staff walked, for centuries, to the Galician sanctuary along the paths of Santiago de Compostela, veritable roads of the Faith.
Integrity
The property encompasses 108 ha, with a 217 ha buffer zone. Santiago de Compostela shows a remarkable state of conservation, largely due to conservation policies that have preserved the integrity of monuments and buildings that form the civil and religious architectural ensemble. Elements from the Middle Ages are integrated with those from the Renaissance, as well as the constructions from the 17th and 18th centuries into a high-quality urban fabric. The Old Town is a liveable and lively place where inhabitants and business coexist with tourism. The urban development has respected natural spaces where the green Galician fields join the historical city. In this respect, the property integrates the urban ensemble, historical oakwoods and open green spaces.
Authenticity
Throughout its history, Santiago de Compostela has received different influences, and the Old Town has integrated these different styles and currents with local traditions. The result of this mixture is a city where the original Galician architecture, with its typical wooden galleries and traditional materials, like stone, wood, or iron, combines with great monuments that constitute a splendid tour across the history of European and universal art.
Protection and management requirements
The conservation of Santiago de Compostela is the responsibility of the Consortium of Santiago de Compostela, created in 1991 and integrated by the national, regional, and local public administrations, as well as the archbishopric and the University. From its creation, the Consortium has carried out important works of restoration of monuments and public spaces, and has subsidized and implemented rehabilitation projects, both for housing and business premises in order to preserve the traditional activities of the historical centre. It also supports conservation actions carried out by the Town Hall of the city and the autonomous government of Galicia.
The regulatory framework that allows for conservation and management action is prescribed in the Special Plan for the Protection and Rehabilitation of the City of Santiago de Compostela.
In terms of management challenges, Santiago de Compostela is facing the pressures of mass tourism, which produces overcrowding around the cathedral and provokes changes in traditional commercial activities. Actions have been undertaken towards diversifying the touristic offer and diverting visitor flows to the suburbs of the city, such as with the construction of the City of the Culture of Galicia, a modern complex constructed by the Regional Government on Mount Gaias, in the proximity of the historical centre of Santiago de Compostela. In the future, adaptive changes will need to be foreseen in the Special Plan for the Protection and Rehabilitation of the City of Santiago de Compostela to preserve the traditional commercial activities in the Old Town, and to support the policies of conservation of buildings and monuments, as well as the recovery of degraded spaces.
A PERSONAL VIEW
Having been fortunate enough to spend time in the city at the completion of many Caminos, I still look forward to my time there,however short. For me, the highlights are obviously the Cathedral, but equally rewarding is to sit the Plaza Obradoiro and enjoy the reactions of Pelegrinos as they arrive; many for the first time and many who have walked, for example,from the Pyrenees continuously over several weeks.
My recommendations are as follows and not in any hierarchical order.
Rúa das Carretas, 33, 15705 Santiago de Compostela.
The museum is divided into three floors and pays tribute to Saint James and the pilgrims who come to visit.
It is a monographic museum that highlights the importance of the cult of Saint James and the pilgrimage routes to his tomb since the High Middle Ages, especially in Europe. Images, objects and documents are exhibited on several floors, in which visitors can learn about the origin of the cult of Saint James, the beginning and development of pilgrimage, the gradual configuration of the various routes and of Santiago de Compostela and the influence of the pilgrimage on the artistic development of the city’s craft guilds. Free entry on production of your Pilgrim Passport.
The museum was opened in 1976 and is located in the former convent of Santo Domingo de Bonaval.
The pieces on display help to understand the different aspects that define Galician culture. It has different rooms dedicated to aspects such as the sea, trades, the countryside, built space, traditional Galician society and daily life, as well as sections on clothing and music. And a wonderful stairway. Admission €5.00
Surpassed only by the Cathedral. Located in the heart of the Old Town, it has served as the city’s primary fresh food hub since 1873. The current granite structure, built in 1941, features eight parallel halls filled with approximately 80 stalls selling everything from Atlantic seafood and Galician meats to local cheeses and wine.
Flagging? My favourite place for refreshments…and there are many cafes to choose from…is in a hotel garden.
The first hotel of its kind for Santiago when it opened in 1999, the Costa Vella inhabits a beautiful listed house carefully refurbished to preserve its original Galician character.
The hotel is tucked into the northern edge of Santiago‘s dazzling Old Town and there’s always a buzzy local atmosphere, with compostelanos popping in and out of the café. Pretty stone streets lead to grand Praza do Obradoiro – home to Santiago’s magnificent Cathedral and 16th-century Hostal dos Reis Católicos – in under 10 minutes. The lively Mercado de Abastos, with its exceptional food offerings, is a 10-minute stroll away.
I never leave S de C without buying souvenirs. Go on be a Turigrino 🤭….
In Santiago de Compostela, Orujo is a traditional Galician pomace brandy made from the remains of grapes after wine production. Often called “firewater” (aguardiente), it is typically served as a digestif after meals.
Orujo Blanco: The pure, transparent spirit, typically over 40% alcohol.
Licor de Hierbas: An herbal version made by macerating various plants (like rosemary or thyme) in the spirit.
Licor Café: A local favorite made with roasted coffee beans, often paired with Tarta de Santiago.
Crema de Orujo: A smooth, creamy liqueur similar to Irish cream, often from famous local brands like Ruavieja, which is based in Santiago.
Doña Camiseta – one of many souvenir shops
I never leave Santiago without one!
TWO BASIC AND MORE ORTHODOX GUIDES TO Santiago de Compostela:
https://www.spain.info/en/destination/santiago-compostela/
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