ensuitepilgrim's Blog

Overnight bus to Gatwick. 06.00 flight to S de C. Half day in the city before taking a coach on Sunday morning to Oviedo, from whence we went to Grado, after a futile attempt to get a ” sello ” for our Pilgrim passport, I e Credencial. Long journeys but not a problem when you have done it a couple of times before.

On arriving at S de C, first Camino signs on the stairs from arrivals…

At our hotel ,De La Salle, where we have stayed before, there were obvious signs of improvement- and it remains a great value stopover.

How many times have I walked about this amazing city? Always a new Calle, or square.

Students receiving their degrees with a simple shawl. On to aperitifs and dinner. S de C remains great value for your Euro if you look around. Some great dressing up and Casa Manolo was good fun.

Next leg was the coach to Oviedo. Rarely do you go directly anywhere on ALSA buses, they serve remote towns and go along routes that your Satnav would not suggest. We went north to La Coruña before heading East to Oviedo and over the mountains some fog.

After reaching Oviedo, a big city, we made for the Cathedral wanting our first stamp, sello, from there – Sunday and the Basilica was shut! Luckily, Mac Spotted the Cathedral bar nearby and we got a great stamp there – then the bus to Grado.

We found our hotel Areces, with the assistance of a Chinese mum and daughter who insisted on taking us to the door – Camino Angels exist – Areces is only a year old and run by Antonio and his wife – great hosts; superb location.

Being in the region of Asturias, cider is the drink – in Oviedo there are streets dedicated to it. Here, we found Cafe Express, a little distance away from the square where live music was playing as part of a local fiesta – something to do with Spring – sheltered from booming bass notes, Sidra was ordered and whilst menus were perused took in the unlikely scenes of Spanish grandmothers pretending to be complimentary about their friends’ perms whilst they played, would you believe….Ludo? Great food, too. Even if it did come all at once!

En route back to the hotel, we were impressed by the stage show – so professional and very loud. Fortunately our host Antonio had forewarned us abou the din and provided ear plugs.

Great breakfast at Areces and then the Camino really begins…. a little longer in distance than the guide books stated as we were to find out. Mac reckoned the music went on until well after 02.00. I never heard a thing after closing the shutters. Next morning, looking out on the square you would not have thought there had been mayhem a few hour earlier.

A tempting fruit display and some fungi at the market.

Barbara had got a good line in roast chicken going.

In the council offices there are two reproductions of paintings by Edward Lear, who spent time here in the 1840s.

Of particular interest to Lear was the Abruzzo, which he visited in 1843, through the Marsica (Celano, Avezzano, Alba Fucens, Trasacco) and the plateau of Cinque Miglia (Castel di Sangro and Alfedena), by an old sheep track of the shepherds. ( Wikipedia)

Coffee by the old Post House on the square, then a local bus ride,€4.00 return to Sainte Marie.

( One thing I did notice en route is that fuel prices are even higher than the UK.)

The village of Sainte Marie housed the office of the Cammino Brigante as well as the museum. The obliging lady who handed us our certificates was also our guide for the museum. Apparently, our group had attracted considerable local interest being the first English group to complete the Cammino. Yesterday evening we were stopped twice in the old town by people who had heard about us! We were asked to pose as a group,for a photo, which happened again later in the museum – going to make the papers they said,proudly.

A short stroll brought us to the Palazzo Colelli, home of the Museum Dei Brigantaggio.

Our guide pointed out many things of interest about the Brigands and quite proudly expanded on the weaponry of a well armed female Brigante- leader.

Links to Italian unification were made and the short term liaison the Brigantes had with Garibaldi on his march Northwards. Apparently, none of the promises he made to the Brigands were being honoured so they swapped sides – he reminded me of certain contemporary English politicians – empty promises of £350 000 000 for the NHS, for example. Still I digress.

There were rifles, swords, knives and cutlasses on display and in a more peaceful room, a reproduction of a typical bedroom of the time. With an extraordinary bed warmer – a bowl of hot ashes from the kitchen fire – with a wooden frame to pre vent, hopefully, singing the blankets.

Then it was back to the community centre bar for mini pizzas before awaiting the bus back to Tagliacozzo.

We had an hour back at the hotel to freshen up. Earlier Caterina had presented Paolo with a card and a whip round from us as a mark of our appreciation for his time with us – his enthusiasm for his region, the Cammino, care of the environment, not to mention his encyclopaedic knowledge of the natural world engaged us all. A lovely guy and a great European! We also thanked Caterina with some special chocolates for giving us the chance to walk and enjoy this little known, as yet, wonderful region of Abruzzo.

Our driver arrived and we exchanged final hugs and good byes with Paolo before boarding the minibus back to Rome airport. A smooth ride and then a hassle – free passage through security. Homeward bound.

I am writing this on the flight and it feels as though we had been away a lot longer than a week. On reflection,everyday brought fresh and interesting things to see and sometimes to marvel at. Some decent climbs, too, which will help me, I hope,on my Camino Primitivo, early next month.

The food we were served, especially at dinner, was the best I can ever remember eating whilst on a European holiday – it was all locally sourced using recipes from the Abruzzo.

We had the pleasure of meeting and walking with two “new” members – Helen, Judy’s daughter and Maggie, a nurse from Nottingham – they were both great fun and we enjoyed their companionship.

As for the locals and all our hosts, well we could not have received better hospitality if we had been royalty – summed up by Anna, earlier in the week as she refused my payment for a round of drinks:-

“ No John, You Are My Guests…”

We were and we have all been very fortunate for a few ” bright” days.

“‘…in those few bright (Abruzzi) days’: Edward Lear’s landscaping gaze and the discovery of Abruzzo.

Came Höme with an additional letter to my name!

Another astonishingly situated town.

This was another enjoyable saunter, mainly alongside farm lands and the inevitable hillsides.

More sightings of Griffon Vultures above us.

And the Orsini Castle on the way.

Some of the group got carried away and did a spot of tree-hugging around a seven hundred year Oak Tree.

We reached the outskirts of Tagliacozzo and a veteran cyclist stopped for a chat and some photos – he was quite taken by Judy!

We entered the town through an impressive gateway and into the Obelisk Square.

After checking in at Hotel Marina, Paolo led a group of us on a tour upto and in to the old town. Steep in places and some intriguing doorways.

We then visited the Church of St Francis where the body of Blessed Tommaso de Celano lies – he is famous for being the biographer of St Francis and responsible for nearly everything that we know about St Francis.

On leaving the church we met a nun tending the flower tubs. Paolo asked her about the sisters’ daily routine, to his astonishment she cheerfully told him it was all on YouTube!

We then returned to the hotel for another great evening meal. Judy, like most of us couldn’t cope with all the grilled meat on offer and so she wrapped up a sausage and next morning at breakfast inserted it into a croissant for later.

Hotel Marina was a comfortable stay and someone with a GSOH drew the toilet signs.

And so it was goodnight from him.

View from the bedroom window,7.30 am; Breakfast in a cave, first time ever. Then we set off out of town to the plain which up until the mid 19 th century was an enormous lake.

This was a different terrain to previous day’s but really pleasant in the sunshine. Griffon Vultures were spotted circling high overhead.

After coffee we made our way alongside a river and below the foothills covered in wild flowers, encircled by butterflies.

En route to Castle Orsini passing door ways and the many ” vendesi” signs so common in all the habitats we pass through.

Goats frolicking and then an Oak tree, dating back to the 13 th Century.

Group photo on the steps of the St. Luzia Church.

After a very steep climb followed by a slippery descent in a rain shower, we reached our accommodation for the night – beautiful house and grounds – a loom and a log fire.

It was an excellent evening – the host joined in with the cards – didn’t stop Maggie from cheating!

I w et to see if I could help out in the kitchen, but the chef had it all in hand and produced a great meal for us.

The last photo is of local cheese, roasted in parchment – then dressed with a spoonful of Truffles.

Goodbye to our wonderful hostess, Anna and her husband – more delightful people you could not wish to meet – and off on our saunter to Rosciolo. The weather as forecasted was damp and grey, but everyone was in good heart as we made a gradual one hour climb along the slopes of the twin peaks of two mountains,2.400 metres high – catching glimpses of the higher slopes through the mist and drizzle.

Summer cattle shelters and a steepish slope, through occasional rain.

At the summit, after two hours, we paused and after a break for refreshments we made our way to S. Maria in Valle Porclaneta, where Paulo had arranged for a guided tour.

This church which dates back nearly a thousand years was built on the site of a Roman Temple. A small community of Benedictine’s monks lived and were interred here. A sacred place, reflecting Byzantine, Islamic influences over the centuries, including a visit from passing Crusaders, who left their mark(s), literally.

A fascinating structure, with unique elements – and despite an earthquake that destroyed the monks’ graveyard – still standing proudly in its mountainous setting. The frescoes are a treasure in themselves.

The pulpit and carving above the entrance to the altar are irreplaceable.

As our tour ended the rain became heavier for a while as we continued towards our resting place for the night. A fond farewell to a wonderful place.

Thankfully the rain soon eased and before long we reached Rosciolo for coffee and small pizza – € 2.00!

Our accommodation was B & B La Residencia, in the old part of the village – twin rooms and WiFi at last. Lovely place. After a shower and a break, three of us took a self guided tour of this semi neglected place – a mixture of restoration and ruins, with beautiful archways thrown in. At one time over a thousand people lived here; now a hundred or so, but it still retains its charm, with small lanes and views of the mountains, captivating doorways and bijou restorations around the main square.

As we were standing just across the square, a diminutive figure in traditional black dress came by,I wished her Buona Sera and she returned my greeting and stopped to talk .

It turned out that she was the church warden and asked us if we should like to see inside the imposing structure of La Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Gracie, dating from the 11 th century. This sprightly 90 year old the retraced her steps, unlocked the doors and switched on the lights for us to view the impressive frescoes dating back over five centuries.

After visiting two such memorable monuments we could have been forgiven for thinking we were on a pilgrimage rather than a Cammino. So, we repaired to the Bar de Torre. for a beer and some welcome olives. Quickly back to La Residencia for our evening briefing and then to Risorante Locanda dell Arco, for another delicious meal based on local ingredients.

A special Brigante menu followed by a digestif which some brigands found hard to digest! I loved it. Quickly back, past mysterious steps and doorways. It seemed like we had been away for far longer than four days and we have even more to look forward to.

“Left The hospitable Casa Bella Hostel, shortly after fine breakfast. After Paulo, our guide had briefed us on the local banditry, we set off on what was promised to be a shorter, but no less beautiful walk to Cartore Casore. Like many of the remoter villages, there were a number of boarded up dwellings and some almost falling down – a good investment we were advised as you pay no tax if there is no roof.

We soon reached the Riserva Naturale Regionale Montagne Della Duchessa – one of the largest in Italy. We were anticipating Coffee at Spedino but the cafe was closed – the owner had gone shopping,apparently.

There are a lot of forests in the Abruzzo and Lazio regions and wood burning stoves and fires are the norm,however, I had never seen such pride taken in its storage, before.

The views were dramatic and after pausing to look at the difference between Roe Deer and Wild Boar prints, expertly explained by our guide,Paulo, our attention was frequently taken by rare Orchids unique to this Riserva Naturale. Thanks to Maggie one of our party for some of the photos.

Some of us then took an optional climb up through a nearby gorge, pausing to take in the mosses and trees that thrived there.

it was quite a strenuous little excursion and we enjoyed a local beer in our hostel Casalidicartore, served by our welcoming host.

Paolo and Maggie, one of our Brigantes, photo taken from the mezzanine floor.

Later we enjoyed dinner on the mezzanine floor of the restaurant, supervised by,Anna.

Assortments of grilled meat and local vegetables are a specialty.

Sunday dawned misty over the mountains with a threat of rain and overcast which meant a change of plan for the day. Paolo explained that it would be pointless to climb up to a lake as intended because the cloud levels were so low there would be no views to enjoy and also Limestone becomes a treacherous surface when wet.

Our breakfast was notable for the quality of the homemade jam and cakes made by our talented and cheerful hostess.

So we set off alongside fields to biggest village in the area Corvaro di Borgorose and after three miles or so we could see the church tower and behind it the ancient hilltop village, now largely deserted.

The bells rang summoning the faithful to 11 o clock mass. Adjacent to the church was the town square in which stood two market stalls and a van sporting local fruit and vegetables – Helen, one of our group bought some fresh apricots, which she shared out as we enjoyed a coffee opposite.

There was a very imposing war memorial dominating the square.

We then made a short walk to the Museo Archeologico Cicolano, where we enjoyed the services of a guide.

This is a well designed museum and fortunately for us, all explanations were written in English as well as Italian. Some of the most interesting displays were from nearby Necropolis that had been built 2500 years BC and used in other epochs, sometimes with centuries between.

Some of the finds were startlingly beautiful, a necklace, bronze discs and statuary in particular.

After thanking our museum guide we were shuttled in Paolo’s car to the local brewery Birra Del Borgo,which looked quite unprepossessing from the outside…the interior was something quite different. State of the Art! Over a dozen drafts available and numerous bottled brews, including BRIGANTE .

I chose Water Melon Weiss simply because I was intrigued to taste a beer infused by Water melon, which although very refreshing is not a particularly flavoursome fruit. The beer was very good with a sour edge to it which was a perfect accompaniment to my Foccacia like sandwich of local salad and cheese.

Yet another guide for our tour and he explained how the business began fourteen years previously and soon moved to these much larger premises. Their driving force was to be experimentation and innovation whilst openly acknowledging the influences of more traditional beer brewing countries like the UK,Belgium and Germany, using hops and barley from various countries.The whole brewery system and pipeworks ( 42 km total length ) was custom designed mainly by their own workforce. They now export all over the world. Maggie’s photos at the Brewery.

On our return to the bar area we were given three very different beers to sample – strengths ranging from 4.6 ABV to 10.2. The latter being a hybrid of beer and local wine for sipping not supping!

We walked off these heady brews along the Camino Brigante, thankfully rain free. A number of Brigands were in need of some siesta time by then.

Flight from East Mids was fine and although it was late in the evening we were well driven to our first stopover, in a Mercedes Minibus.

Remote it was, but the evening meal was stupendous – This was just the first course.

After that was Homemade Pasta and then plates of grilled meat 🥩! Help…..

We met Paulo on the transfer from Rome and he was to be our guide for the whole trip.

Great guy. And very knowledgeable about our Camino.

The first day’s walk was a quite challenging in places – flooded paths, some mud and a feature all the way – loose stones. All of this was irrelevant. The views were great.

They speak for themselves- this is such an undiscovered region.

The water photo is a place where wild boars indulge in rolling about in the mud when the water level drops. It is also the site of an ancient Oak Tree.

Sadly, But inevitably younger people have deserted the villages we went through to find employment and fulfilment elsewhere.

A tough walk at times, today – walking poles so essential – lots of water fountains.

Old

Old, quaint streets .And an authentic Pizza Oven.

We walked and met good wishes from everybody we met – mainly locals – From our base we walked to a great bar an enjoyed a variety of locally sourced ales.

Then,back to base for Aperitifs and a sumptuous evening meal. Va Bene

WThe Abruzzo is already proving to be both challenging and beautiful – everything is arresting and memorable.

Cambridge has been on the ” must visit” list for some time and it proved to be an awesome place. I can now quite understand why the author Zadie Smith said :

” Cambridge was a joy. Tediously. People reading books in a posh place. It was my fantasy. I loved it. I miss it still.”

Certainly, the grounds of the colleges were beautifully kept and one could not help but be a little envious of those who had the opportunity to study in such surroundings.

Occupied by the Romans for strategic reasons,developed as a trading post by the Vikings and most importantly in 1209, a group of rebel scholars, forced out of Oxford arrived and the rest, as they say,is history. A star-studded cast of scientists, authors and entertainers prospered here and the university has produced more Nobel Peace Prize winners than any other.

Following a recommended “trail” from the tourist office seemed like good idea, so many jaw dropping settings – the only problem was avoiding being run over by one of the thousands of cyclists that roam the city.

Although the Medieval buildings are so atmospheric, the place names resonant of a deeply Christian heritage, its museums are also in the heart of the city and freely available.

The river Cam, of course, adds to its attractiveness and punters were busy ferrying tourists, perilously – it seemed to me – perched on the back of the boats as they effortlessly manoeuvred their way .

A special mention has to be made of the college chapels and I was particularly taken by a simple crucifix commemorating the deaths of migrants at sea.

If you wish to visit all of the colleges, be prepared to pay for the privilege in some of them – though a good number welcome you freely.

Christ’s is the highlight and it’s setting alone is inspiring.

It was an exhausting but exhilarating day – walked over nine miles – and in a day’s visit you can only fit in so much. But, Ely was on the wish list and so a bus journey back to Cherry Hinton campsite, shower, beer and a BBQ.

Tuesday and a short train journey to Ely and its wonderful cathedral .

What a contrast – an oasis of calm compared to a somewhat frenetic Cambridge – following the “Eel trail” was recommended.The Eel is celebrated with a procession every May, but the main focus was the Cathedral.Ethelreda,a Saxon princess, founded a double monastery for men and women here in 673, the site of her shrine, a place of Pilgrimage for centuries is in front of the high altar. Work on the present building began in the early 1080’s and it is now a massive church, a resplendent” offering to God”, in the words of the Dean of Ely.

Oliver Cromwell lived here for ten years and his cottage now houses the Tourist Office.

Ely – an understated but very rewarding place – again blessed by a River, the Great Ouse, another attractive feature.

Three days and a full programme – I don’t know East Anglia very well but will have to revisit and try to do it justice.

Will finish by mentioning Cherry Hinton – an interesting place, good campsite in an old chalk quarry. Nearby are other quarries, now sites of special scientific interest, quite moonlike!

Did you know: Exmoor is the only national location for the lichens Biatoridium delitescens, Rinodina fimbriata and Rinodina flavosoralifera, the latter having been found only on one individual tree?

Well, you could be forgiven for that.

Certainly the trees in the Lynn Valley generally and in the grounds of Myrtleberry Lodge were evidence of this phenomena.

Walking up to Watersmeet and on to the waterfalls was a magical experience.

The tumult of the River Lynn, the sunshine and birdsong – great start to a days’ sauntering in the Exmoor valleys and coastal path .

After Watersmeet, a drive to the coast and a walk along the coastal path and a typical valley , where the pace of the stream, enforced by half a day’s rain was breathtaking.

Heddon’s Mouth – then a long,uphill walk, including a half mile 1-4 gasper to the car psrk, near Martinhoe, an ancient hamlet

Everyone in good spirits, befitting St Patrick’s Day – we enjoyed our own parade.

Myrtleberry was a lovely retreat , in Exmoor, which ended too quickly – what an amazing place.

“All the beauty of the spring went for happy men to think of all the increase of the year was for other eyes to mark. Not a sign of any sunrise for me from my fount of life; not a breath to stir the dead leaves fallen on my heart’s Spring.” 
― R.D. Blackmore, Lorna Doone

A welcome invitation from good friends to stay a couple of days over the Saint Patrick’s weekend in Myrtleberry was irresistible.

The destination is very near to Lynton and Lynmouth.

It occurred to me that the weekend could be extended by staying over in Minehead on Friday evening.

Why?

Well it is only a 45 minutes to The cottage from there, but the destination was born out of nostalgia.

In the 70s \ 80s, Butlins’ holiday camps advertised “ Venture Weeks” at some of their centres,taking place over a month around Easter.

Billy Butlin was not altruistic- this was an opportunity to warm up the camps, train staff ready for the main season – it was still quite visionary.

I had taken children’s’ groups to Venture Weeks in Minehead,Bognor Regis and Phwelli, over twenty years – Minehead always had the best qualified staff for the children’s’ activities which were wide ranging from abseiling to chouckball ( a kind of handball ). They came from St Luke’s Exeter and St Paul’s Cheltenham- PE specialist colleges.

It was a week of On- site activities and off- site excursions. This formula was the same in all venues and it worked well.

I shall always remember Minehead off site for the West Somerset Railway Trips and what was billed as “ The Big Walk” – Coaches dropped us off at Dunkerry Beacon on Exmoor and we walked 10 miles back to the camp…sorry holiday centre. Moans a plenty and that was only from the staff.

Inevitab,ly the children would later be asked to write about their Venture Week – often the Big Walk was what they remembered most!

Today,walking past the Minehead Butlins ( nominal, as Rank took it over years ago – might even be owned by someone else now ),I was struck by the enormous canopy and The Maisonette like accommodation.

The first years we went, it was still lines of single storey rooms with toilets interspersed!Not that it bothered us,or the children in the slightest.

With all the developments I thought that maybe the Boat Lake as it was called, would have been tarmacked over, but no, it was still there. And I recalled that the session on the lake was a highlight for the children, paddling around in canoes. It was also popular with ducks and though shallow, lined with Guano…!

My fondness for it was such that whilst accompanying the children on the lake in a double cayak, with another teacher, as we herded the children in at the end of our session, staff on the bank took the children back to their billets…only Glen and I managed to capsize our craft and fall in to the lake, whilst trying to disembark!

TG no Iphones in those days.

We waddled back to our primitive bunkers and ran hot baths…my abiding memory is of us, in separate baths, I should add, laughing our heads off.

I was fortunate enough to have enough willing staff prepared to give up a week of their Easter holiday to accompany the children on these many weeks. I think they all loved it – 24 hour wrap around care – I certainly did and am forever in their debt.

We were staying the night in The Quay, a free house on the Esplanade and a great pub it turned out to be – food and accommodation top value.

This the view from the bedroom.

Minehead was much bigger than I remembered, I was struck by its cleanliness and despite or because of the huge Butlins” campus, genteel in an old fashioned way. Opposite the West Somerset Railway Station, the council have recently erected some notice boards featuring aspects of the town’s history and development – some fascinating old photos.

After a further walkabout it was time for a drink in The Duke of Wellington and back to the Quay for dinner.

Nostalgia for a place can be disappointing but on this occasion pleasantly surprised.

A walkabout on one of the town trails leads you through parks and over bridges up North Hill, to the splendidly situated St Michael’s Church – peaceful and terrific views across the bay.

The trail led downward to the pretty, little harbour and coffee in the sun – that was the last we saw of it, though.

Then it was time to bid farewell to Minehead and face the challenge of Porlock Hill, a drive across the edge of Exmoor – really windblown and scenic – a decent in to Lynmouth and a narrow road to Myrtleberry Cottage.