ensuitepilgrim's Blog

Set off in damp conditions and the mists disguised some fine scenery. Nevertheless it was to be a more enjoyable walk than yesterday as the there were good paths through woodlands and less tarmac.

After a while we came to a green, barn door which I recognised from my previous saunter in these parts with my sister and brother, Penny and Matt, a few years back. Behind the aforementioned door was a restored courtyard and bar look at those chandeliers!

Over streams and down quiet pathways – I heard a cuckoo somewhere in the nearby forest – and a couple of hours passed by almost imperceptibly.

Then another pleasant stop at a cafe visited before, albeit in much sunnier weather.

A helpful sign showed that as we emerged form the forest we were heading towards Toques and a different landscape.

Two ” Horreos” from different centuries – the restored one aided by a rural grant.

Passing through a typical, half abandoned and seemingly nameless hamlet I noticed the wheels of an ancient cart left in its rustic dolmen – like shed. And yet another long abandoned house for sale.

Signage can be mirage as Compostela was posted – not THE ” field of dreams”, however.

Flora and fauna – cactus and goats on the outskirts of Melide, today’s staging post and the town where the Camino Primitivo meets the Camino Frances, the latter being the most popular and overcrowded Camino – The cross roads – goodbye tranquility.

Thankfully our base was a little way off the main drag and proved to be a quiet spot in which to recover – though the swimming pool was a challenge too many!

Just had a photo sent, of last night’s meal in one of the many Tapas bars and streets in Lugo. Kind of a farewell do as the two lads, Mick and Michael have a different itinerary and Marie is having a rest day in Lugo – we’ve had three good evenings together. Having crossed paths most days since Oviedo.

“Wind” and “Rain” today in different amounts and at different times. Leaving Lugo, it began to rain – poncho time – crossed the Mino over the old Roman bridge and climbed out of the city, passing the imposing gateway of a Manor House.Lugo is an excellent base for a longer stay – Roman walls etc, but a host of other things to see. The walk was relatively flat now and after a couple of hours I reached this church and a nearby, somewhat ramshackle but welcoming cafe. Stripped off the poncho as the sun came out and enjoyed one of Hannah’s ” sugar rush” cakes with my Americano.Lugo was now in the far distance and as there had been a lot of quiet road walking,it was a relief to get back on more traditional pathways.84. 7..KM to Santiago from here.

Rustic scenes ( I did gesture to ask for permission to take the photo – must have missed the smile ) – and since leaving Lugo , Galician Horreos now.Rome’s influence extended to San Remoa daRetorta , where at the Albergue we were to ring our accommodation ( 8 km away ) for a lift. We did; they came.

This plate with pan delicioso came to €4.00 – aproveche. A much needed lunch after21 KMWe were pleased with the basic, but clean room and will be dining later. And it has stopped raining, the socks and tops are drying on the radiator- a Pelegrino’s work is never done – I love these stopovers, you never know how it will pan out .

 “Don’t come to the Camino looking for answers. Instead, come with an open heart and you may be surprised by what you find.”

This was always going to be a challenge – a long etape of 30 km the guide books stated. The guide books have underestimated every stage so far.There was a heavy mist which lingered for a couple of hours. I spied this church in what looked like a picnic spot, neither of which seemed to have been used for some time. There was not the usual information board and I could find no reference in my guidance. It was a forlorn scene.Some brightness around the next bend. Roses are popular in this hamlet.I had read that there was an occasional, summertime – only coffee possibility in the next village which was famous for its 15 th century church – a national monument- and a regal Manor House that had been a Hotel, but which now was closed. The coffee spot was both unlikely and very welcoming – A Camino burger van!After enjoying a super large Americano and a slice of Empanada, the proprietor gave me a pen decorated with the Camino and his van – super guy.

Moving on through the village I was taken by a bench converted with two ancient wagon wheels. Adjacent was a field with a Galician take on ” the cat among the pigeons “.A little further on there was a sad scene.The Primitivo has been much improved in its infrastructure with the help of The E U’s cultural arm.Renovating the Way, developing remote hamlets by assisting with the development of hostals, for example. More wagon wheels,too. There were several small villages along this etape and helpful notice boards provide an insight about their history.Not everything has been reclaimed and one wonders what fate befell this once imposing Manor.The lilies were a showcase. After several rather dreary kilometres ( compared to the rest of the walk), Lugo was nearing and the Primitivo enters the city via an ancient bridge and barrio.It took me the best part of an hour to find the accommodation, passing Santiago’s chapel en route – Despite being here on another Camino four years or so ago,I had forgotten how big a city it is.Only a 100 kilometres to Santiago,now.B& B Murallos Romano took some finding even with Google maps, but it was worth it as the host gave me a lovely, sympathetic welcome and urged me to enjoy tea and buns, English style.After a shower and brief rest, it was time to head in to the old city to meet up with our three English amigos for a meal in the tapas area – we met up with other Pelegrinos who had been our daily comrades, by coincidence – when the Spanish pilgrims choose a restaurant you know it’s going to be good. Atmosphere enhanced by a concert celebrating Galician folk music and costume – just look at these wonderful children piping and drumming their hearts out in the Cathedral square.This has been the longest stage of the Primitivo so far – the feet are standing up to it well, so far.

This was a very enjoyable stretch with only two steep climbs overall and one very long descent. Best of all was the sunlight and of course the diminishing views of the mountains- still dominating the skyline.

After a couple of hours a welcome little bar where we had a good chat with two Americans from San Diego ;we made a pact – you don’t mention Brexit and we won’t mention Trump – we were all on the same side!

Interesting structures as ever from barns to former pilgrim hospitals The latter now converted in to more modern usage – on the Primitivo a bar/ cafe is as welcome.

O Cadavo is a pleasant little hamlet with one hotel and two Albergues, plus a few cafes – the views are its best recommendation and the friendly inhabitants .

We were assured that there would be at least three places for dinner, bearing in mind it is a Sunday. Not so. The hotel restaurant- our banker – was closed even two of its guests with whom we were hoping to have dinner! So back to the bar next to Porto Santo, where after a 50 minute wait, we enjoyed a Menu Peregrino for €10.00 Super Salad, steak and chips, wine, water, sweet and dessert. Don’t know how they do it….

Mac and I finished with an Ojurro con

Hierbas – a digestif. The boss insisted on topping them up – long live Galician hospitality.

28 KM in prospect,including a couple of decent climbs. Bright blue sky and crystal clear air. I was reminded of Pilgrimage by the number of chapels and hermitages found upon this etape

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I was particularly pleased with the above photo of the saint as I had take it through a grille. Still today, believers write their prayers and invocations on post-it’s and scraps of paper, leaving them with hope.

Some lighthearted moments, too.

Flora and fauna – lots of interesting insects in the mountains here but I only managed to catch one unawares.

Fontefrio – Cold Fountain – a tiny hamlet and tinglingly fresh water. Fuentes are a feature of most Caminos.Bafflingly, the signage in the Asturias region is in the opposite direction to Galicia and most other regions that I’ve walked through; last sign in Asturias.

First sign in Galicia was expected to be in the opposite direction-but it wasn’t! Later some signs were….?

Only 166. Km to Santiago from here at the foot of the Acebo pass. Earlier, the border was marked in a way only to be found on a Camino.

I really enjoyed this stage and the climb upto the pass – steep descent – the views were even better in the sunshine.The local people don’t waste materials and even tiny stores are made from materials to hand like slate and stone.

The same can be said about domesticated animals – a donkey tethered peacefully grazing below the road – chickens cooped and protectedfrom flying predators by netting.The signage has been good on this Camino and the information boards,too.

The last climb was up to Fonsagrada – Holy Fountain – and it was steeper than the climb up to the Acebo pass – worth every slow step and who should be waiting at the top but Mac. He had done 8 km as a tester for his knee and was pleased that it went well. So on to Casa Manolo, our accommodation for the night and where after a shower and a rest, we met three English Pelegrinos for drinks and a meal. Menu Pelegrino € 10.00 including wine, home cooking at its best. Welcome back to Galicia.

Mac is having a rest day and so I left our base at 08.30. Great place and situation.

Passed by a tiny chapel and began a 30 minute ascent towards a wind farm on the ridge above.

Bonus being sunshine, but clouds and mists to come.

The Primitivo is already quite different to any Caminos I have walked before,mainly the mountains, the ups and inevitable downs. Silence and stillness.

Being above a cloudline is quite exhilarating it also a little mystifying.

There had been serious Forest fires here in 2016 and the burn out was still visible whilst descending towards the Embalse.Lower down, after nearly an hour’s descent, the first views of the Embalse ( artificial lake )

The track downwards was in good condition and not nearly as challenging as some.

Finally, as the mist cleared the Embalse came in to view.

This dam is now 65 years old and took thousands of man hour in its construction – abandoned buildings close by were the dwellings of the workers as most materials, mainly concrete, had to be made in situ.Also, several villages were evacuated to facilitate the dam’s construction – it is 35 km in length.‘

I am not a Graffiti fan but I was taken by this little inscription- always in my heart – that says a lot about the Camino.Three and a half hours’ walking and this gem of a hotel was a welcome stop for coffee on its balcony.An Americano and one of Hannah’s cakes never tasted better.

It was a further 7 km, mainly uphill to Grandas da Salime, quiet place which owed its existence to the Camino Primitivo and to some extent still does.Hard to believe I walked across the trail over there.‘

Yesterday afternoon,only a few hundred metres from La Pola, Mac had a fall on the path. At first he thought it was just superficial bruising to his knee and shoulder,with some pain in his left wrist. However, over night the wrist had swollen and the knee was a little more painful.

Therefore, I made enquiries at our hotel about a Doctor.

We were directed to the local medical centre, fortunately only a 100 metres away!

After having ID and European medical card checked he was seen quite quickly by a doctor. I went in with him to help a little with translation.

Mac was examined and then referred to the nearest hospital at Cangas de Narcea. He was given a referral note, with a brief description of the problems and told to go to the” Urgencias” department.

I settled our hotel bill and the barmaid directed us to the nearby taxi rank which was situated by a striking monument to Emigrantes.

No driver, but a passing,elderly lady rang the taxi number and within a minute the driver extricated himself from the cafe and drove us to hospital – another Camino angel.

A winding journey of about 25 km brought us to Cangas, maybe it was the dull overhead weather conditions, it seemed a drab if busy place.

The relatively new hospital is situated on the due of the town.

After handing in the referral letter, we had barely sat down when Mac was summoned by a nurse.

An hour and a half later,after several X-Rays on his knee and wrist,MAC emerged with a knee bandaged and the wrist strapped with an external steel plate. The former to be discarded when we can obtain an elastic bandage and the latter to be kept on for ten days.

The halo is permanent apparently.

The whole process- two consultations in two different locations,including a taxi ride took two and a half hours – impressive Spanish health service.

Hospital receptionist saved me the bother of telephoning a taxi and within five minutes we were off to La Mesa and Albergue Miguelin- after another day off Mac is still determined to press on. Ultreia!

The taxi took us a great speed over the mountain pass – decent photos even as we were on the move.

This is a private Albergue mostly restored with the help of an EU grant. The bar/restaurant is popular for lunch with local workers.

The overall Trip Advisor rating is 9.4!

Not hard to see why.

 From the film ‘”The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel”

“Everything will be all right in the end… if it’s not all right then it’s not yet the end”

There are two approaches to Pola de Allende from Tineo,which in times gone by was felt to be so difficult to get to that the most favoured route was by way of the mountains. Long abandoned Pilgrim hospitals bear witness to this – now called the ” Hospitales” route.

However, since then another lowered route was founded and this was the way we sauntered to Pola de Allende. Two main reasons – recent wet weather would have made descents very tricky, Plus it’s an isolated track – 14.2 km with no infrastructure.

Thankful for a dry if chilly start we made our way out towards the Camino taking a short taxi ride to an obvious starting point.

Oak and Pine trees, plentiful birdsong – well placed stepping stones.

Passing a tiny chapel dedicated to San Roque – a great favourite in Spain.

This enormous hoarding was placed on an isolated track and encouraged thoughts of much needed coffee – we were to be surprised by so much more on arrival.

MAC asked the owner, José, what time the Disco started – this was the most extraordinary galaxy of lights and flags festooned from every part of the ceiling. The range of goods and CAMINO related nicknacks was astonishing and we could not have asked for a more entertaining and humorous host, whose English was excellent.

He insisted on taking photos of us – with Emilio from The Canaries – both inside and outside the bar.

He had his own design made for the Camisetas and I could not resist- the actual quality is excellent – although I shall doubtless be required to off load a couple of old t- shirts as a consequence!

We pressed on through more forest, passing bee hives and enjoying the views.

The descent was over 300 metres and steep in places. Freshly placed signposts,too.

Pola is an attractive little place located on the steep banks of the River Nison .

The above photo shows a memorial to emigrants – the Indianos ” – were some who returned from the Americas with their fortunes and investing in the town, building some luxurious residences.

Our hotel overlooks the river and is a very friendly,old fashioned place – some unfashionable wet bits hopefully drying out in our room – been promised an exceptional Asturian dinner tonight.

Ponchos on, we left the square and gulped at the information board and began our first climb of the day.

The temperature was 8* when we started out from the hotel.

The Camino today was going to be mainly along wooded paths,sometimes clinging to the side of the mountain as we were sometimes clinging to the fences to avoid the mud. Heavy rain showers were to exacerbate what are generally pretty wet ways.

The Albergue at Bodenaya wasn’t open so no coffee, but a reminder on the wall about how far there was to walk.

At La Espina we found a welcome shelter from the rain. An automated self service Pelegrino Parada with coffee machine and a vending facility from which you could buy everything from a sandwich to a Camino Primitivo T-Shirt! Greatly appreciated. Could not resist these photos.

Two contrasting buildings. One an ancient hermitage site and almost next door, a bungalow with a difference.

Because of the rain and cloud cover over the valley and mountains, not many opportunities for photos. Occasional glimpses of the sun, but I was struck by this barn door!

Tineo was a very important Pilgrim stop in the Middle Ages and the views are impressive.

It does have an impressive Town Hall Square.

Tomorrow is set to be another challenging day, not least because of the weather which if the forecast is correct, then part of the initial climb involved is not advisable in poor conditions.We shall see. Meanwhile the boots are drying out in the laundry room after our young host provided us with some cleaning aids. She was impressed by our efforts to sweep up the mud we brought in.

Superb breakfast at Hotel Areces and we bade a warm farewell to Antonio and his wife. We quickly found the Camino and set off with some trepidation as the guide book told of inclines…We passed an old pump, a fountain and a cross, not untypical on a Camino I know, but they all have a special history and place.

The first climb was a long one, cobwebs and dog roses,vistas and Asturias Horreos which are larger than those of Galicia.,

My attention was taken by some unusual vegetation which was very attractive to bees and butterflies.

We were pleasantly surprised then to come across a Donativo drinks station – this is where someone local, sympathetic to Pelegrinos leaves out drinks and snacks and payment is by donation. We met two pelegrinas from the Veneto and the Argentinian lady who sets up the station, daily, with her daughter. She and her husband bought the place a while back and renovated it themselves.

We moved on to Cornellana and walked past its nearly 1000 year old monastery, in need of the promised TLC and as we looked back we were able to understand its size and past significance in the area.

A butterfly and wall climbing roses.

A typical Asturian farmhouse with its adjacent Horreos.

Fountains and bridges, all with information as to when they were built or renovated seem to be commonplace on the Primitivo. Intriguing doorways and a nearby window with a shell motif.

Soon we were in sight of Salas,and after sharing the view with some local livestock we reached our hotel for the night – a former palace of the Valdés family who founded Oviedo University,Castillo de Valdés-Salas. It also houses a small museum. The rooms are grouped around a courtyard, in which we were unable to recline because the rain swept in. We had been fortunate to have had reasonable conditions for our walk,however.

Aperitifs and dinner in Bar La Campa, served by an eccentric, hyper active lady, who forgot to give us knives and forks in her rush to go round in circles, but who did eventually serve us a decent bottle of wine. House Special Salad was muy bien.