Started off through quiet streets , a contrast to Porto.
Crossing the swing bridge.On we goLighthouse ahead Wonderfully inviting beaches.Occasionally you came across a traffic island On the edge of Vila do CondeMost of the chapels are dedicated to Mary St of Fishermen A few more boardwalks And amzing beachesA contemporary hotel with a fascinating past. Located in the heart of Vila do Conde, at the intersection of the serene waters of the Ave River and the grandeur of the ocean, stands the hotel housed in the historic Santa Clara Monastery. Its uniqueness lies not only in its remarkable architecture, but also in its ability to combine historical legacy with contemporary comfort and sophistication. This magnificent building, with its neoclassical features and exquisite symmetry, is a testament to the passage of time and radiates an imposing presence. Its origins date back to 1318, the result of a dream of its founders; however, the Monastery as we know it today is the result of several renovation works that took place in the 18th century. View from the digsWe walk on through the town tomorrow.
Extravagantly good breakfast at the Log Hotel,Porto. A mornings respite in Porto afoot, before meeting at the cathedral 14..00 to walk to Matasinhos….the Camino proper begins. Rob,Mike and I took the bus into town for €2.50 and we soon found our way into the historic centre.
The Sao Bento railway station – such a marvellous foyer. Campanha Station in Porto is one of Portugal’s most important railway landmarks, combining history and functionality in a structure that serves as a vital link for transportation in the northern region of the country. Inaugurated in 1875, the station retains a classic charm with traditional architectural elements, making it an essential point for those arriving in the city. Although the title of the main train station of Porto belongs to Campanha, Sao Bento Railway station has something else to pride itself on – the spectacular interiors and fascinating history. The beautiful building that houses the station was once home to the 16th-century monastery, the Convent of Sao Bento da Ave Maria.
Unfortunately, the original building was demolished in 1896, but it’s hard to regret it, as the beautiful neoclassical complex that was built instead is truly a work of art.
Even if you are not planning to take a train in Porto, Sao Bento rail station is worth stopping by to admire its amazing decorations. The main hall is a splendid sight as it’s adorned with over 2000 azulejo tiles, depicting the history of Portugal.
As forecast we experienced a spot of drizzle, as after a welcome coffee, we made our way past the Cathedral,across the bridge; our intention was to enjoy the views along the Douro and to catch the cable car down to the PORT side of the city.
Some TLC needed . Dom Luis BridgeThe most famous bridge in Porto, the Dom Luis Bridge, was designed by Théophile Seyrig, a co-founder of Eiffel and Company alongside Gustave Eiffel. Its sweeping iron arch and panoramic upper walkway provide some of the most breathtaking views in the city.All aboard the Telefonica . The Gaia Cable Car, or Teleférico de Gaia, is a monocable gondola lift located in Vila Nova de Gaia, across the Douro river from the Portuguese city of Porto. The upper station is located next to Jardim do Morro station of the Porto Metro, the upper level of the Dom Luís I Bridge, and the Serra do Pilar Monastery. The lower station is on the riverside promenade of Cais de Gaia, with several nearby Port wine cellars, along with restaurants, cafes and a departure point for Douro river cruises. The line was built by Doppelmayr at a cost of €12 million, and is operated by the company Telef – Transportes por Cabo e Concessões, SA. Construction commenced in March 2009, and the line entered service in April 2011. As of November 2024, the line runs every day except Christmas Day, with services starting at 10:00 and ending between 18:00 and 20:00.Great views despite the drizzle.We had enjoyed an Al fresco lunch before swinging our way back upto the bridge.We met up as arranged with the rest of our group at the Cathedral and made our way down to the quayside from whence our Camino proper began.We had about seven miles to walk alongside the Douro to Matosinhos in bright sunshine but a strong headwind.An Angel It is a lovely walk and most of the group enjoyed a welcome ice cream en route.Magnificent Anemona…on the island where we turned off for our accommodation for the night.
Matasinhos has a deserved reputation for its fish and seafood.
This was our first choice.Table for eight please.The group were divided into the Seabass and Sardines camps with accompanying salads and fresh vegetables. Both sides agreed on the quality and reasonable price of our dinners. Great meal.A look back at an eye catching tree in blossom on the banks of the Douro. We had an enjoyable first day on the Camino.
After a taxi ride,organised by Mike and shared also with Sharon and Rob, we arrived at Birmingham International in good time. Surprisingly quiet in the “ Drop Off “ zone and even more deserted at the Jet2 Check- in point. The time from dropping of the hold luggage to exiting Security was less than 20 painless minutes! Fastest yet.
It occurred to me that the reason everywhere was so relatively quiet was possibly because the Wetherspoons was rammed with passengers, with a queue to boot.
So with two hours to kill, we found a quieter coffee spot, having met up with Rita and Dave in Departures. We have all exchanged the expression “ small world” after a conversation, which came to pass when Dave realised that he and I had both attended St Philip’s Grammar School. Dave being younger than me ( like most people) started a few years after me, but happened to remark that he had a cousin who had attended at the same time as me. He said his cousin had gone on to become the Headteacher of Holy Cross School, Walmley – this immediately rang a bell. “ Your cousin wasn’t Paul King was it?” “ Yes” he replied in astonishment. “ I was his “ best man” “, I replied. I went on to describe Paul and our friendship of close on 70 years …. “ Well, I”ll be….” Small World” indeed.
Already the Camino was springing pleasant surprises….
Not quite so pleasant was the 45 minute delay to take-off, however some time was made up and we arrived in good time.
It took twenty minutes to clear security at Porto airport, thankfully there was no biometric test! Taxis to the hotels- we were glad we did not have to use public transport.The hotel,is opposite Porto FC’s stadium. We met up in the hotel lobby.I set off to find somewhere “ local” for dinner. Normally this would not have been a problem,but May 14 th is Ascension Day – many paces were closed.After a frustrating few minutes I came across this place and made a reservation for the eight of us.Everyone in good formIt had a good,vibe – no tourists except us! I was really pleased that the menu featured several versions of a dish unique to Porto.The Francescinha which most of us ordered and just about managed to finish. A francesinha (meaning “little Frenchie”) is an iconic Portuguese sandwich originating from Porto, developed in the 1950s as a local take on the French croque monsieur. It is a massive, high-calorie, toasted sandwich made with thick bread, filled with various meats—typically steak, ham, sausage, and linguiça—covered in melted cheese, and smothered in a rich, spicy tomato-and-beer sauce. SMILE FOR ANITA’S SELFIE
“Just a song before I go To whom it may concern Traveling twice the speed of sound It’s easy to get burned
When the shows were over We had to get back home And when we opened up the door I had to be alone
She helped me with my suitcase She stands before my eyes Driving me to the airport And to the friendly skies
Going through security I held her for so long She finally looked at me in love And she was gone
Just a song before I go A lesson to be learned Traveling twice the speed of sound It’s easy to get burned”.
Last Blog this side of Porto I promise.
As you may know,Barbara had a slip and fall last weekend resulting in a new hip on Sunday last, at Heartlands Hospital. We were all extremely grateful for the care she received there. Meantime, I was really concerned about the dilemma that the Camino suddenly presented. “ Should I Stay or Should I Go?” To quote another song title.
It was only after Barbara’s transfer to Solihull Hospital, Thursday 7th May, that things became a little clearer. Solihull is more of a post operative place for patients with surgery like hip replacements.. – REHABILITATION.
Today, Friday 9th May, Hannah and I visited Barbara – Solihull Hospital is more village- like than Heartlands and from our very first steps inside , we felt welcome. ( this is not to decry Heartlands which serves more purposes on a grander scale ). It was just the ambience,I guess.
A hip replacement,from a sudden fall, apparently presents different challenges than those that are long awaited ( sometimes overdue). The recovery time …ie mobility takes longer and can often be more painful at times, which makes regaining mobility a lengthier process. Whilst there, we were fortunate enough to witness nursing carried out patiently and diligently. The bonus for Barbara, Hannah and myself was the chance to talk with the two physio-rehabilitation experts looking after Barbara and gaining some valuable advice on how we might adapt our house to better suit Barbara’s homecoming and continued rehabilitation.
It was only after their appraisal of Barbara’s predisposition and feistiness that we we felt reassured that she was in expert,sympathetic and professional hands …literally. Barbara and Hannah were adamant that I must go on the Camino…
Back home, we began changing rooms etc to facilitate a safer and comfortable setting for Barbara, funnily enough Han and I felt quite energised in what became a “ project” almost….seriously it was mainly about shifting things around ….creatively of course. We are not quite there yet but we know what we want it to be.
It is not possible to predict when Barbara might be home but given present progress, hopefully in a few days’ time.
Saturday 9 th May – this time we drove to Solihull and bought a few days ‘ pass for the car park which was very quiet. Being a Saturday not many day patients and the corridors etc were so quiet we might have been in a convent.
In brief, apart from Hannah and myself , we were pleased to welcome Daniel up again from Berkhamstead and later Vickee and granddaughter Martha at the bedside. Two physios came in ( almost rapturous applause ) and encouraged Barbara on to her feet and lots of steps!
Again much credit to the professionals and Barbara’s grit and determination.
And ,so it came to pass that we eventually went back home where Dan and Hannah moved a single bed downstairs to Barbara’s temporary bedroom. Very impressed. We all felt we had seen great progress in terms of mobility and self belief today.
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BACK TO THE CAMINO
Michael Rosen – 80 today – great man.
We shall all walk at our own pace, I would only offer this piece of advice which is to take a bag- break at least every hour, enjoy refreshments despite necessity and smell,the flowers,
It would be unreasonable to assume we should all arrive at our digs at the same time , but please don’t check in until I get there, as confusion can arise about whose rooms are whose…Receptionists understandably won’t know our circumstances.
SIMPLES – I say that every year.Take your pick…
Look forward to the meet up at Birmingham International Airport on Thursday 14 th.
I have loved folk music since I was a teenager as well as contemporary music – I spent many convivial, singalong nights at folk clubs in Birmingham and Solihull back in the 60s/70s. Below is a link to a relatively contemporary version of HAL-EN-TOW; a bucolic classic.
Take the scorn and wear the horns It was the crest when you were born Your father’s father wore it And your father wore it too
Robin Hood and Little John Have both gone to the fair-o We shall to the merry green wood To hunt the buck and hare-o
Hal-an-Tow, jolly rumbelow We were up long before the day-o To welcome in the summertime To welcome in the May-o For summer is coming in And winter’s gone away
What happened to the Spaniards That made so great a boast-o? They shall eat the feathered goose And we shall eat the roast-o
God bless Aunt Mary Moses With all her power and might-o Send us peace in England Send us peace by day and night-o
Well, if old folk songs sniff of nostalgia, then recalling Caminos walked this century could be politely termed “ recent history.” As with any look back,there comes context because despite familarity there are always differences.For example,I have walked the Camino Ingles from Ferrol to S de C twice with two totally different groups and although both were great saunters, they were still unique in the experiences, conversations and meetings that took place.
An early passport
Hence, I invite you to look back on Caminos Portuguese from the past that I blogged about – I would say from the outset that WordPress is much improved if not the content – I shall try to evoke both the time and the context. The first recollection is a Blog I wrote eight years after it took place – in 2012 I only had a notebook – so I decided in 2020 to write up the “ lost Caminos “. This is a long blog as I tried to tackle the entire Camino in one post!
From John the Baptist lookalikes to meetings with Portuguese pelegrinas, memories of my roommate Mac, to a memorable t- shirt and a NEW YORK yellow poncho, this was also where I took the phrase “ ensuitepilgrim “ the title of the blog pages since.
Lovely guy who would not accept any payment for my drinks,etc
This was my only “ solo” Camino and it is memorable for the kindnesses I received en route and also the solitude which I found strange at first and then I slipped easily into that mode. I confess to using my I-pod along the way, mainly listening to a Camino soundtrack I had compiled.
. “High On The Skyline”. THE NEW MENDICANTS ( this is not a monastic order! ) ” Soul Shoes”. GRAHAM PARKER “You Better Move On”. ARTHUR ALEXANDER “One More Cup of Coffee”. CALEXICO & ROGER McGOUGH “True Love & High Adventure” GRAND DRIVE “There Goes the Sun”. PERNICE BROTHERS “The Lower Road. THEA GILMORE featuring JOAN BAEZ “It Will Be a Good Day” YES “Ends of the Earth” LORD HURON “Everyman Needs a Companion” Fr JOHN MISTY “Sangre de Cristo”. SCUD MOUNTAIN BOYS “Wild Places”. COLIN BLUNSTONE “Travelling Alone”. TIFT MERRITT “Walk Like a Giant”. NEIL YOUNG “Mr Blue Sky”. TONY DISCONTI ( Jeff Lynne Tribute) “Jesus is a Hobo”. CHARLIE PARR “Down Among the Cove “. DUANE ALLMAN “June Hymn” THE DECEMBRISTS “Hot Dusty Roads”. BUFFALO SPRINGFIELD “Beautiful View”. RON SEXSMITH “Ramblin’ On My Mind”. ROBERT JOHNSON “The Sea “. SANDY DENNY “Crossroads”. RYAN COODER “Pinches of Salt” ROY HARPER “Beyond the Shore”. WILLARD GRANT CONSPIRACY “Into the Great Wide Open”. TOM PETTY “Waterfalls”. PAUL McCARTNEY “Ease Down the Road”. BONNIE PRINCE BILLY “Miles from Nowhere”. CAT STEVENS “On a Day Like This”. ELBOW “Restless Feet”. DANNY &THE CHAMPIONS OF THE WORLD “Wide River to Cross”. LEVON HELM “As I Roved Out”. JANE SIBERRY “Going Home”. LEONARD COHEN
I still have it!
“Life’s a road full of ups and downs, but it’s the journey that makes the difference.” Every step we take, every decision we make, every challenge we face, all shapes us and makes us who we are. Life is an adventure and it takes courage to embark on it and keep going even when it gets tough. Life is precious and deserves to be lived with passion and determination. “
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