Leaving Montefiascone at its highest pointA pleasant garden with great viewsThe lake Cathedral DomeThen we began a long and steep descentLooking BackCornflowersStunning coloursA Marian Shrine We soon came to the Roman basoli paved path which stretches almost unbroken for nearly 3 km. For two thousand years this has been the passage for kings, emperors, soldiers and merchants.
Look closely – soldier ants on the march bearing crops
All disappearing down the hole.
An impressive railway bridge. Where the district of Viterbo beginsA good thought and farewell
Relieved to come upon this picnic bench as there was nowhere to sit this morning and sadly that has been typical of our experiences so far on the Francigena. It is understandable that there are no cafes between towns and villages as there is no footfall except for pilgrims and the numbers would never be enough to support bars etc.However, some seating would be much appreciated- not all,of us like sitting on the floor and even that option is not always available- beware ants😅.
Jubilee year marker stone. Just after leaving this picnic spot I began to feel an ache in my right hip – nothing new but I suspect it was the aftermath of that Kilometre long descent.Although there was not a great deal,of distance to go on what had been an enjoyable walk so far,I felt increasingly uneasy as there is still a week’s walking to do,notwithstanding the rest day tomorrow in Viterbo. After a few minutes we came across a main road and to my relief there was a bus stop – a pleasant young man was waiting there and he assured me that a bus for Viterbo was due. We always said “ The Camino Provides”. As I boarded, I went to offer my credit card but the driver waved me through! It was a long walk from the bus station up to the old town.Turning right after entering the Porto Romano, I followed the phone’s directions for some time – it was quite complicated- eventually I reached the B&B Palacio Romario.I couldn’t make head nor tails of the phone numbers and so I sat down on the edge of the old washing baths opposite the entrance. Fortunately again, after a few minutes, the owner just happened to pop his head out and on spying me , he beckoned me in and in no time at all I was in our room. After a long drink,a banana and a couple of painkillers I feel OK…Thanks Mike for the Roman road photos.We have a rest day tomorrow and time to explore what is reputedly a very historic and beautiful old city.
Or so they say….Lots of shade, undulating walk with some climbs albeit we are walking alongside the lake ,but on a ridge for the most part.Noisy waterfall spilling into the lakeThe end of the lake.We thought this looked an inviting stop until we got close to the pipe where it warned not drinkable ! A Bummer. Last glimpses of the lake for now.We reached Montefiascone around 13.30 ; 11 miles enjoyable walking with a decent hill to finish!This little city must be one of the most underrated and less known. We were very impressed by the history and culture plus the friendliness of the local people.The Cathedral Pelegrinos Lake scene after a hefty shower.
Sunset from the balcony of restaurant Dante – a somewhat chaotic dining experience – but what views.
Leaving Acquapendente – bus services are good and very cheap compared to taxis – today’s fare was €1.10.
Walking along the usual gravel road,very little traffic.
First glimpses of Lake BOLSENA Papal Swiss Guard commemorative plaque in a remote spot.Not quite sure about this!The lakeA kind of geranium growing on the path PoppiesBreak time in the garden of a deserted villa.Reaching the outskirts We were totally surprised by what we found inside this humble looking chapel
FRESCOES EVERYWHERE …
Onwards towards BOLSENA The “ sticks” in the background are actually Garlic!The CastleIn the fountain Quiet time – SiestaSan Christina – our very own Pelegrino !Nearing the hotel- another Agrismo.Hydrangeas are popular in BOLSENA Another fabulous pool settingJune and Christina relaxing after a swim
Christina suggested we have a picnic supper overlooking the lake on a table close-by our rooms. Four of us went down to a Carrefour Express which supplied all our needs and we set the fare out alfresco style with our saint’s very own wine
And very pleasant it was,too.Wearing Hannah’s Father’s Day present!Sunset at the end of a very enjoyable day and feast.
Heartwarming cards and presents from Hannah,Daniel and Tom for Fathers’ Day. Great way to begin the day.
Awake at just after 06.00.
Routines are essential for Camino preparation and begin the night before by getting all the packing done barring what is needed for the morning. This includes supplements to take after breakfast, socks and feet bag ready, walking poles by the door so they are not forgotten! It’s important to remember any washing that may be hanging around somewhere. After a shave, attention turns to feet preparation which includes massaging Vaseline into toes and any sensitive spots, putting on polyester toe caps ,a dusting of tea tree powder then trail shoes on. Gear on next, then two aluminium water containers to which soluble hydration tablets are added,plus an other litre bottle of water – all placed in day rucksack along with any other bits and pieces after an application of sun cream. Put all electric leads in case – close it , check the room for any forgotten items – take the case to reception for collection by luggage transfer to that evening’ s hotel, then breakfast usually at 07.00 -07.30 . Hoping to be on the trail for 08.00 most days.
Now after all,that excitement,today’ s stroll.
Sloways, our travel company booked two taxis to take us upto the summit of Radocafani.
An amazing setting.
San Petro The altar piece A view from the wallsA striking statue.
The previous evening it was decided to take taxis down from Radocafani as the descent was 500 metres of steep tracks . Not a great distance, but it would help preserve our knees for the next ten days’ walking.
“A Long and Winding Road…” as they sang so memorably.
The piazza near to our digs in Acquapendente.Locals’ Sunday papers’ Reading club Our nearby piazza Our digs- in a family run hotel,of nine rooms.At about 15.30 as forecast there was a short storm and a spot of rain .Plenty of water for the fountains behind our place.After the storm subsided I went for a stroll. View from the walls.Rapturous sculpture You can just pick out the Basilica to the left from here.A cooling Zuppi Inglese.Artwork underneath town hall arches As promised ,Tom’s Fathers’ Day present – a Wolves themed T-shirt in iconic Old Gold and Black – our present Portuguese manager appointed last year to save us from relegation; which he did. He famously goes to local pubs and mixes in.Great guy and an excellent coach.
Fountain express – a Tuscan special meal – yesterday’s bread and bean soup – a speciality.
This morning we left our homely B&B to have breakfast ( included) at a small Trattoria in this piazza.
A traditional breakfast was enjoyed there,though the choice of teas was a guessing game!June joined us from her hotel as it was planned to cut down the length of today’s walk by taking to 09.18 bus to Abbadia San Salvatore. I got the front seat and we drovec down sinuous county roads and serpentine bends with the driver nonchalantly using one hand most of the time . It was only when we disembarked at Abbadia that I realised we were the only passengers.
After a coffee stop on this busy town it was,decision time.
Fountains rule opposite our cafe. There was no option but to use Mapy.com to enable a short cut off the Francigena route. I must admit to being somewhat dubious because main routes are made to enable a safe passage, however, the walk began simply enough.
A wall,of wild flowers.A stream which we crossed safely over a concrete bridge .The path was beginning to disintegrate.We then came upon a stream running across our way. Not too deep thankfully.But uninvitingly slimy – we all got cross with our socks dry.From this point on and for a long,uphill,stretch the vegetation became as challenging as the Rocky underfoot conditions. We managed to help,each other across a metre drop onto a small dry stream bed.Yes the views were still enticing.
After what seemed an endless climb we emerged on a typical white path – TG.Yellow flora my favourite colour.A caterpillar crossed my path – these have a very unpleasant sting.These were popular with beesI used my bog standard App. Earlier which reassured us were close to our accommodation.La Selvella Agriturismo. A wonderful setting.What a relief after a really hard walk to relax here for a couple of hours
Dinner was served under an ancient tree – it was a very good meal served with panache and a smile . I can’t speak highly enough of enough of the help given to me by the receptionist in acquiring two,taxis to take the group down from the heights of Radificoni the next day as there were no buses on Sundays.
9km we said, it will be a breeze we said…Wrong! Friday 13 th? Nobody in this group is superstitious but perhaps we might avoid walking on that day in the future 🫣
The day began peacefully and uneventfully….But.
June pausing at an advert for an Agroturismo .Wonderful views as ever.Local floraA wild OrchidThis stretch was buzzing with insects – good to see.A lot to choose from but we chose the second one down.We explored this hamlet,but not the tower.A view from the court yardA gorgeous gardenChristina in the frame.Not long until we reached Bagno Vignoni with its ancient hot springs now walled in as a centrepiece of the village, visited over the years by Queens,Popes and Lorenzo the Magnificent We managed coffee here – rather a day trip feel to the place – but interesting, even though you can’t take a dip. The waters flow into the River Orcia.It was at this point things got tricky as a long awaited repair of a pedestrian bridge was still incomplete, which meant we had to find the traffic bridge with no footway.We had to navigate the rest of the way in searing heat using our phones which sent us up and along some tricky,rock strewn paths. This diversion, for want of a better description, added five km to the day and it was slow going, wisely, for some of us.Yes,there it is.By early afternoon and much later than anticipated we reached Castiglione d ‘Orcia and it’s peaceful squareVery welcoming lady served us Agua Frizzante and beers.Salute!An interesting menu and we might revisit in the evening
Then on to B&B Il Vecchietta Via del Cassero, with its wonderful garden and vistas; a medieval house whose stone walks made for a very cool interior
Not thinking of climbing up there but we had a very restful afternoon which helped us all recover from a tough day…but we did it!
The first part of the walk was very pleasant and uneventful ,with good views of the ever enchanting Tuscan countryside.
This is a famous wine growing area One of Italy’s (and the world’s) greatest red wines, Brunello di Montalcino is a small wine region in southern central Tuscany, producing particularly impressive wines. In Tuscany, its homeland, it perhaps ranks alongside Chianti Classico. On global markets, it seems to command even greater attention. Cypress Trees and vines dominate the landscapeWe stopped by the Caparzo WineryRather early in the day so temptation avoidedGlad we didn’t have to climb up there The rest of the walk to Torrenieri was along a meandering gravel roadCoffee and a snack in this pleasant little placeWe were to discover later why the flags were out. We decided to take the bus for the last few km as the temperatures were hitting 30* and reached San Quiricio quickly avoiding a long climb.Pelargoniums ruleThe square in San Siricio where we decided to have dinner. The town celebrates a feast day where the four districts parade tunefully to the church with drums rolling and flags waving. We were fortunate to be well placed to enjoy the spectacle.Great atmosphere and a good meal – memorable evening.Sunset at the hotel.
A fond”Farewell “ from our hotel,receptionist.These are horseshoe momentos of the Siena “ Palio”.Christina’s photo as we prepare to,start the walk. We walked down hill and around the Siena Salumi factory into the Tuscan countryside.A communal laundry washing point.
Up the hill and another solitary sink for scrubbing.
Wonderful vistas as you are soaping up.
We walked for some way alongside a single track railway, passing through fields of Alfafa and young Sunflowers
Splendid poppies, too.We crossed over a solitary bridge and eventually reached Ponte d’Arbia for a welcome break.Americano , Gatorade and a babana – default morning break for me.
A welcoming place for pilgrims and we had a chat with French group who apart from a large group of Aussies yesterday are the only folk we have met on the Via,so,far.
A saucy tray.We were leaving via its famous bridge which Tom had discovered escaped bombing by the Germans in the war.The Francigena did not cross the bridge because there was no footway,but directed us to a nearby pedestrian crossing.We got a great view of the Ponte from the pedestrian bridge A tethering of donkeys aside the river.A less peaceful,scene - Barking mad dog and Englishmen - glad he was not on the loose.One of a number sculptures we passed on our way up,a steepish climb.The climb begins.These were on the approach to the summit.One of a number of views.Going down…Buonconvento in the distance Almost full bloom.
Buonconvento, only a few kilometres from Siena, is one of the most beautiful villages in the whole of Italy according to ANCI classification. Enclosed within a city wall built in 1379, the medieval village originally only had two entrances at opposite ends of the main street: towards the north is Porta Senese, where the original wooden doors and windows with metal fittings remain, and towards the south Porta Romana, which was destroyed in 1944 by the retreating Germans.
Via Soccini runs right through the historic centre, and was named in memory of the ancient family whose members included illustrious jurists, as well as a couple of heretics who organised various doctrinal Socinianism movements that developed during the sixteenth century.
The aforementioned doorsThe high street.Beautiful settingWe were all in agreement that this town had a really atmospheric feel of the Francigena – and that was before we had a beer.Then on to our comfortable accommodation and a siesta for some.Hotel Ghibellino
The name “Buonconvento” translates to “happy place” or “fortunate community” in English. It comes from the Latin phrase “bonus conventus,” which refers to a gathering of good people in a place that is enjoyable and beneficial. The town’s name reflects the historical setting as a safe and welcoming location for travelers on the Via Francigena, a historical pilgrimage route.
This is a sample from the guide book Recommended by Sloways
We called in at a local supermarket enroute to the start of this stage and stocked up with bananas, cereal bars and water as there was a long stretch before coming to a a cafe . We had enjoyed an excellent breakfast at the hotel which would sustain us for the most part. We walked past the Duomo .
Rob capturing the stained glass.
We then traversed the famous setting of the annual “Palio” a mad horse race around the periphery of the square.
JUNE striding out…
We were making our way to the Porto Romano to exit this wonderful city.
Out into the countryside with its non stop vistas It was heating up – 28* and counting, with only spasmodic stretches of shade.A well sign posted stage so far.We paused by this stream for a drinks break and Christina captured some birdsong on her APP. a Blackcap and a Nightingale.
The soil,takes on a distinctive grey colour for a wide expanse in this area.
The Crete Senesi (Sienese Hills) is a region located south of Siena in Tuscany, Italy. It’s characterized by rolling clay hills, woods, and semi-desert landscapes, creating a unique and unspoiled beauty. The area includes the towns of Asciano, Buonconvento, Monteroni d’Arbia, Rapolano Terme, and San Giovanni d’Asso.
we reached the outskirts of Monteroni eventually with temperatures in the 30s.A diversion from the main Francigena.An interesting connection.An allotment alongside one of the impressive villas along the the way. Eventually, after a climb uphill we came to our hotel.BORGO ANTICOThe terrace for “ Sharpeners” and tales of heated woe!The dining room, where, after a rest and recovery we enjoyed a typical Tuscan dinner including wild boar.
Thanks to group,members for some of the fine photos
Tomorrow’s walk is to Buonconvento and Tom has promised a shortcut!
Four stages to the journey today with most of us up at 05..00. Taxis to Digbeth coach station for the 07.05 to Luton airport . It was 20 minutes late but made up most of the time via a convoluted route,taking in stops at Bham airport,Coventry – slow there – Northampton, Milton Keynes, Luton town and eventually …. The airport ! I may have missed one stop out,I think.
En route
Getting through baggage check in and security was very efficient- 30:minutes, although I got frisked about six times at security 🤨. Then flight departure from Gate 43…after 20 minutes everyone had to disembark from the bus to be told the plane was in operative,please go to gate 11, the other side of the airport. Arriving there, checked in for the 2nd time…sorry you’ll have come back from the entrance to the planes because this plane developed a puncture on landing. After an hour, we checked in for the 3rd time and eventually got on board, people remained in good humour, however,and the flight was enjoyable , the captain making up 25 minutes.
June and Rob celebrating take off!The Swiss Alps
Pisa airport was a doddle and our minibus awaited our departure- I had whatsapped them about the delay. A 90 minutes ride through the Italian countryside to Siena and our hotel which was very welcoming .
We enjoyed a cold drink on their patio with Swallows dive bombing everywhere and everyone loved the setting in the evening sunshine. We adjourned to a nearby restaurant for dinner which was great value ,with humorous friendly sevice.
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