ensuitepilgrim's Blog

This is another, favourite quotation of mine; never a Camino without these experiences…

“The paradox: there can be no pilgrimage without a destination, but the destination is also not the real point of the endeavor. Not the destination, but the willingness to wander in pursuit characterizes pilgrimage. Willingness: to hear the tales along the way, to make the casual choices of travel, to acquiesce even to boredom. That’s pilgrimage — a mind full of journey.”Patricia Hampl Favorite Report

This powerful sculpture is in Padron. There are a number of highly significant sights and scenarios, in this understated place; usually more renowned for its Peppers than its significance in the history of the Camino.

The legendary Padron, the alleged landing  of  St James’ body,   

the hill  where the Apostle preached ….and much more.

The final etape of the Camino ; the final stages, entering the city, are uninspiring, but the rewards are great.

Back to basics, and mea culpa if I repeat myself, Santiago, for all its powerful resonance as a pilgrim city, is still a tourist destination and it is best to be aware of st least two things. Accommodation outside the Old City is better value and so are the restaurants. Our accommodation is a ten minute walk from there, in a state of the art, private Albergue…..not quite “Ensuite”, but for € 16.00 a night, unbeatable value – a single room, each. Just a few photos to give a picture of what an Albergue could be…

We took a quick brunch at a sociable cafe, nearby; Mac ingratiating himself with the staff! Never fails to get a smile…

Then, up to the city, which although I have visited it often, is always as enticing  and buoyant as ever. Whether you want baubles or fountains,  frescoes or colonnades, you will find them, here.

The Cathedral is smothered in scaffolding, which rather detracts from the feelings you may have anticipated before arrival; here are two photos ….before and present day ….we haven’ got an ” after”, yet. Top down, it will be magnificent, I think.

Well, certainly the Top part- restored to a pristine condition . Other pelegrinos lie down and bask in the sunshine, having placed their feet on a famous stone mark. Some of them have been on the Camino for 800 – 1000 KM; six weeks, or more.

We then made our way to the Pilgrim Office, to queue patiently, for our Compostelas – the certicate of completion, in Latin, and if you wish a certificate, in Spanish, marking the distance you have walked. This is a photo of the former.

The queue is well organised and the time goes by chatting to other pelegrinos. There are a number of desks where your Pilgrim credencial or passport is scrutinised; don’t forget to buy your cardboard tube to keep your compostela safe and unruffled. Mac ready to go for it….the Compostela, that is.

Afterwards, we had a beer at a nearby bar, sittiing in the sunshine, chatting to people we had encountered over the last fortnight ; everyone eager to share stories and experiences, in their exhilaration at reaching their journey’s end. 

No apologies for finishing with another favourite, tomorrow,  our last day, here, I hope it is as good.

“Few people know how to take a walk. The qualifications are endurance, plain clothes, old shoes, an eye for nature, good humor, vast curiosity, good speech, good silence and nothing too much….” Ralph Waldo Emerson, Country Life, 1858

Shortish hop to Villanova; only 10 KM, by quiet back, country lanes. Vines and Maize predominantly….and a good, few dogs, thankfully tethered. We did pass a church, with an interesting altar stone, on the outside – weathered shell motifs. D and Mac were observing this from beyond the church wall….it was a relief to them when we moved on!

There had been some drizzle, this morning, but it was still warm. Pausing at this shell- covered house, we were glad to get out of our ponchos – very clammy.
We passed a quiet evening in the hotel and the next day, made our way down to the port, to board a boat which would take us up the Ria de Arousa to Pontesecures, and a bridge crossing in to Padron. The mayor was there to see us off – he had been with us at the Adega – he has been mayor for twenty years and unlike our mayors, his role is far from nominal, as he is elected and in these parts, that means 100 000 potential voters to be wooed. We didn’t realise, until we disembarked, that he had paid all our fares, for the trip… he gets my vote!

After we had posed for more photos, we set off under the sailsmanship of a man whose principal role was in sub- aqua, it seemed. He proved to be a great guide on the trip, his name, appropriately, was Santiago. I love working harbours and hereabouts the Mussel industry dominates the Ria. 

These are the second biggest Mussel beds in the world, there are nearly three thousand of these platforms, all worked by families – a lot of the harvest is exported to France and Italy. The boats have a small crane, with which to lift the cages of mussels – these are taken from anything like, five hundred ” strings”, dangling down from the platforms.

There are several nature reserves, both on the banks of the river and on islands – the warden of one of major habitats came out  and wished us a good voyage; friendly wave from a fisherman, too.

There are numerous stone crosses, situated on both banks, along the way, dating from the early 19 th century; placed to guide pelegrinos towards Padron. In those days, it was the preferred way to travel. We preferred it too…. a 27 km boat journey, rather than a 28 KM walk.
Lots of birdlife, Cormorants and Royal Herons abound. Nearing our destination, as the river narrowed, two more historical points of interest – the remains of an ancient fort, strategically place on the narrowest neck of the river and two replica Viking ships.
More recently, Nestle have set up a big plant, opposite a huge milling foundry.
We docked at Pontesecures – a Roman site at one time – Pontesecures means ” Caesar’s Bridge”, which now carries ” legions” of pelegrinos up from Caldas de Rei, on the orthodox Portuguese routes, into Padron. It was time to say farewell to our navigator and carry on across that very bridge.

This is the end of the Spiritual Variante, which will doubtless grow in popularity, in much the same way as  the Portuguese routes.
A memorable detour.

https://youtu.be/HI8cToXmS1s ” The Pilgrim Song” by Cecilia Samaritan 

Just  when I thought my rucksack carrying days were over, I received an e-Mail from TUITRANS, the company I had used for the previous four days, which dismayed me, as the cost suggested  for the final, four days had gone up by 250%! They don’t have any competition on this section, I.e the Spanish Correos, so their prices are exorbitant. This did not spoil our meal, together with B, of our party, in the majestic Comedor, in the Monastery. We hoped we would meet up with her, for the boat trip, on Wednesday.
Monday commenced in Misty, damp conditions and after breakfast in a nearby bar, Mac and I set off; our first stopping point to be the delightful fishing village of Combarro, just three Km away. I was once more carrying my rucksack and it had not been a problem – four walking days without helped – as we were entering the village, Mac’s phone went and after ignoring two calls, he finally answered. It was our leader,C, telling us wait on the main st. as the Chair of the local Peregrinos’ confraternite had been in touch, and had offered to transfer us by minibus over the mountain, ahead , as sections could be dangerous.

Within minutes we were aboard the minibus after being introduced to Celestinio , the president of The Portuguese Costa confraternite; he guided us around Combarro and I splashed out on the local “pin”.

 He  was to be our host and guide for most of the day…..and night. Someone whose knowledge and enthusiasm for his beloved Camino was inexhaustible

THE CAMINO PROVIDES
We were never more relieved to be aboard, as we climbed up the mountain.I think it would have finished us off. But there we were, being transported over it , rucksacks and all. There was still some cloud over the Ria, as the sun gradually made a bashful appearance. We walked along the top for 600 metres, to another viewpoint.

At that point we were reminded it was time for a coffee, which we enjoyed, along with Empanadas and samples of Galician style stew,at a mountain top golf course….An incongruous, but unique setting.

Looking over the driver’s shoulder, on the way down.

The tour continued with a stop at a Cistercian Monastery, where we were warmly greeted.

….then a reality check….some walking to do 11 KM along the Rua de Pedras a de Agua, downhill, following a stream and over some stony pathways, reputedly one of the most peaceful and picturesque stages on all the Camino.
 We enjoyed this walk, bypassing the ruins of many small water mills – Muinos- as we went. After a stop for a ” Clara”, we made it to our base for the night  – all five of us at Hostal Santa Baia, very new and most comfortable. We only had an hour or so,to showers etc; before our host and guide would be arriving to collect us and take us to a small reception at a local Adega,renowned for its Albariño wine.We were whisked away and were greeted at the Adega Eidos…the setting alone took my breath away, let alone the stage of the art wine making production, the vineyards and the views. We sampled three distinctive Albariños, together with samples of seafood – the crab pate was muy bien – as were the wines and the hospitality. 

The evening was not yet complete. 

After being given ” Goody Bags” and posing for a group photograph, ( note the caps ) we went on ,with a tour around the Ria and I was impressed with both the beaches and the settings, along this magical coastline. There was plenty of Holiday development, but nothing out of place. We stopped at Lanzarda, which had a Miradour, ancient fort and chapel, set alongside a Necropolis, which ahead been partially explored; apparently it was a huge town in its day, with much yet to be excavated. The sun was setting and Mac spotted Dolphins, frisking about in the Bay.

After a further tour of the coast, including a very exclusive looking resort, Isla de Toxa, we arrived at a restaurant , for dinner, at about 10.30 pm.

We sang ” Happy Birthday” to D, one of our number; the locals applauded.

Back to base for midnight; more shattered than after a 25 KM walk !

THE CAMINO PROVIDED INDEED…
https://youtu.be/p1GkR54wQaM ” Looking Back Over My Shoulder” – Mike and the Mechanics.

Saturday evening was enjoyably prolonged, after dinner in Santa Apostol,by a conversation with the host , who is a Knight of St James. His English was good and he told us of his devotion and affection for the Coastal Route – not in the least sanctimonious, or pompous – largesse and good humour. He treated us to samples of Orujo, a Galician specialty liqueur, pointing out the differences between the ” herbas”, the “aguardiente” and the ” crema” – didn’t fancy the latter as he said it was akin to Bailey’s !😝

Sunday morning dawned brightly and after a light breakfast, we set off for Pontevedra and the Deviation of the Variante Spirtual. We walked with two ladies from Colorado, USA! We had met them a couple of days, previously; Chris & Kris. Real enthusiasts, they were greatly taken by this little shrine, en route.

We soon reached Arcade, which I remembered from my solo Camino, because it was drizzling that day and I had my photo taken by a couple of Portuguese ladies and I reciprocated – that photo is on the front blog page. I got Mac to take one, in the sunshine, this time. The bridge is famous in Galician and Spanish history of Independence, because Napoleon was defeated here.

After crossing the Sampoio Bridge, we had coffee and complimentary Churros, in the company of two guides from a local company, whose job was to take Turigrinos from place to place, en route. The lady gave Mac some impromptu lessons in Spanish pronunciation, warning him that mispronouncing ” Arousa” – one of our destinations, would lead to a misconception about a Russian woman!

We walked on and before long came to the Capel de Santa Maria and obtained a “sello” for our pilgrim passport – you need at least two per day , in the last 100KM in Galicia – made a change from bars and hotels.

All along the Way, there were fields, gardens rich with grapes, tomatoes, quinces and oranges – ” King Harvest Has Surely Come ” – https://youtu.be/5tWR3F4oQN4 – The Band, from THE GENUINE ROCK OF AGES Album, came to mind.

We were nearing the outskirts of Pontevedra, a city of 80 .000 inhabitants and a famous pilgrimage centre on the route to Santiago – the suburbs are far from endearing and you would not think that its historic centre could be such a contrast – but you could describe the approaches to Santiago, similarly. There were  two images that cheered us up.

And so into Pontevedra, where I had stayed twice before – it is a great city – its most famous Camino church is shaped as a shell. The old streets and remains are really well preserved, as is the bridge which  takes  you Northwards , towards both Santiago and the Variante Spirituale.

We though there was a Camino Exam coming up, at this point…

Revision notes, please!

After two KM, the Way goes along a Roman Road, towards the turn left to the Variante Spirituale, with its distinctive waymarks. This Variante has only been supported since 2012.

An easy stroll took us to the Monastery of St John de Poio, with views of the Ria de Pontevedra – the heart of the Rias Baixas. There is a wonderful cloister, ribbed  vaults, and an amazing mosaic, based   on the Camino.

and also, the longest “horreo ” in Galicia , if not Spain – these are grain stores – symbolic of Galicia.

This region makes the best Albariño wine; the Monastery makes its own – € 6.00 a bottle in its bar!

And now for dinner…

The only things I shan’t miss about Portugal are the cobblestones. Climbing up around Mount Ecla, on a smooth surface was a bonus. Made the mistake of not stopping for a coffee; it would be a good few kilometres before we reached Oia and the next bar. We had plenty of water, so despite the sunshine, it was fine and the Camino was very rewarding with its harbour, mountain &  sea views, plus good signage.

 Typical of the Galician countryside are the ” horreos”, which adorn most farms, small holdings and even some gardens. Some are decorated, too. It’s unusual to get a look inside, though and to see how the sweetcorn is stored, mainly for animal feed.
Stopped for refreshment at Oia and a view of its Monastery. Plus some earlier signage.
Had an overnight stay near Nigran, never did quite find out where, exactly! Not a state of the art pool, friendly place, though.

Then an early start for Vigo; always a challenge to get in there on the Camino. Often through forests. Biggest city in Galicia, in a haphazard expansion, to its high and low bases. We still stopped to smell the flowers…

A few other photos signifying the Camino and an impromptu dance, when we came upon a village fiesta – How could I refuse a lady? Mac, took the photos and declined the opportunity – never danced with my boots on before!

” Encantada”…..” Encantado” Try saying that with your sunglasses in your mouth!

https://youtu.be/_b-kzi5PEqs – no competition – Galician Folk Dancing

We followed the yellow fleches as far as a bus stop, by coincidence, the exactly same one, that I came to, four years ago. There was no debate…on to the number 17 and a € 1.40 ride into the centre….a bargain and a life saver! Getting into Vigo is not for the faint hearted, but once you are there, it’s a lively, friendly place, waterside development, hills and fine squares.

This morning, we walked steadily up Via Principe, to a famous, modern church, Our Lady of the Picos, from where we could pick up the yellow arrows to guide us out of Vigo and on to Redondela. This is what the church would have looked like, before it was covered in scaffolding, as it was, today. The Picos are a famous mountain range in Northern Spain.

We followed a ridgeway  along the Camino, The Senda da Augua ,that had been developed for walkers and cyclists. It’s important to carry plenty of water as there are no cafes/ bars, for 10 KM. There are occasional Fuentes .It has a good surface and there are extensive views of The Vigo Ria, with its mussel and oyster beds and an impressive bridge.

On reaching Redondela, after 17 KM, we passed several, more trendy places to have a beer and bocadillo at Bar Central, where the warm welcome and value for money belt its humble frontage. We met up with the couple of German ladies, we shared the motor boat with, across the river . They were having problems, trying to get a bus to Pontevedra, Saturday service, etc; So we asked a local policeman if he could help. Just opposite is a the Albergue, in a restored 16th Century building, where I had the misfortune to spend a night, four years ago. I’m not the ” Ensuite Pilgrim” for nothing…

Redondela is famous for its railway viaducts, built in the 19 th century, to transport goods and Albergue apart, it’s an interesting place to wander around; it’s also where the interior, Portuguese Camino meets our Portuguese de la Costa.

It was an additional 5 KM to our hotel, Santo Apostolo, on the Ria; with a couple of high ascents and decent. Some pelegrinos take a taxi….we didn’t…but I can ow see why you might! There was an impromptu Shell Shrine at the top. I think it is to commemorate the death by accident, of a pilgrim cyclist. There were a lot of  weekend  warriors on the trail, today. 

This is our hotel, the owner and the bar, where I am writing this, despite an awful Spanish “soap”, on the TV.

Menu Pelegrino tonight – hopefully something fishy.

We heard that one of our ” group “,R, from Ireland has had to go to hospital in Santiago, by car, as his leg has swollen mysteriously and needs an expert diagnosis. Such a shame , we only met a couple of times, but we got along well and he came from a teaching background ; same sense of humour and left field views. We have sent our best wishes, via our leader. Hopefully, we’ll be able to catch up with him in S de C. Mac is in contact , by phone,with some of the group, though we have not seen them, for a couple of days. My feet have been great; pride of place to the boots!

Four day ago, I made the decision to send in my rucksack by a local carrier Tuitrans. I was experiencing shoulder ache and my right knee felt vulnerable, with the 10kg+ I was carrying; it was spoiling my enjoyment of the Camino. You have to listen to your body. I would arrange luggage transfer, for any future Caminos. It’s probably an age thing, too!

We had yet to meet up with all seven members of this loosely described group – we had been on the same flight with three members, C , D and his wife,T. As we had only been given the stages for each day, not the hotels, it would only be by coincidence that some of us stayed in the same place. The two other members had flown in from Ireland, R and a lady, B.It would be on the outskirts of a lovely little village, Fao, that we first encountered R, a lovely guy, with GSOH, by chance in a cafe, where we met up with D and T. C and B we occasionally walked with during one or two of the days. Of course, on any Camino, everyone walks at their own pace,so it was probably more essential, to develop a group dynamic, that evenings provided a chance to meet up. To date,a week on, this has happened once. I don’t know what the other ” members” felt about this – for me, it was inconsequential, I.e” Que Sera, Sera.”Mac, my regular walking compadre, found it frustrating at times. 
We had , as is the norm, met up with several other pelegrinos, from USA, Ireland and even Yorkshire,plus a group of three ladies, from Spain, who were both funny and friendly company.

Still, on with the Camino. 

Walking towards Esposende, provided more boardwalks alongside the sea, but one seemingly, never- ending slog through a forest of the ubiquitous, Eucalyptus trees. At the end of which, being slightly ahead of Mac, I found myself, inland, by the beautiful parish church of Apulia. I enquired of a couple, nearby, if there was a bar/ cafe nearby- no, they were some way off, back by the beach. In no time at all, from nowhere, they provided me with two ice cold bottles of water. After a faltering, but sympathetic conversation, in French, revived, I walked on…..the Camino provides.

On eventually arriving at the aforesaid village of Fao, Mac, myself, R and eventually T and D, met up in a very friendly bar, for lunchtime refreshments.

Walking through the village, we came upon an English phone box, standing incongruously, in a Plaza; its function was to provide the opportunity to get a ” Carimbou ” – a stamp – for our Pilgrim Passports.

I had stopped in this village before, on my solo Camino, four years ago, and was pleased to note nothing had developed to alter its charm; the Fire Station, still had its doors open and you could view its two , proudly preserved vintage engines. The Bombeiros in rural Portugal , are often manned by trained volunteers and they are usually a centre of social importance to the community.

Apulia Town, where Mac and I stayed overnight, is a slightly shambolic, seaside resort, but dignified by a magnificent beach.

Next day, took us to Viano de Castelo and the Camino took on a different character, being mainly inland, with some stiff hills and at times, precarious footing, where the path was strewn with stones, overlying, granite boulders. Walking poles, essential for any Camino, came into their own, here. This isolated spot shows a poetic celebration of an ancient Magnolia.

The approach to Viano is most appealing as you can see the Santuaria de Santa Luizia,on a hill above the city and its lengthy bridge across the Lima River, designed by Eiffel, of Parisian fame.

I had been on holiday in Viana,for a few days last summer, in the campervan and I was pleased to be back in such an interesting and attractive place. What made it even more desirable was our “digs” in a century old, architect restored house, overlooking the main square. The owner, proudly gave us a tour of the imaginatively decorated rooms and when he said some of the smaller features were from IKEA, we laughed and said we were sure he would be forgiven. Should mention that walks, so far, are averaging 20 km, per day.

The views over the river, with a glass of Cruzcampo, were made all the more atmospheric, with the moon rising over the scene.

Caminha was the next day’s destination and a short, two stop ride Northwards, on a local train of about 8 km, made the walk more manageable. Reducing it to 21 km. As in previous days, the weather was sunny, warm, with a breeze, at times. We walked through Villa Praia de Ancora, where we had some lunch; I was first here 35 years ago! Lovely little seaside resort .

Caminha has a main square which is always a focus for visitors, plus a white,sandy beach.

We were due to cross the estuary the following morning at 09.00. However, we were informed that because of a low tide, the first crosssin would not be unti 12.00. Our leader, C, found an alternative  means of crossing,striking a deal with a local fisherman. At just after 09.00, we were ready to embark ; our boat was slightly smaller than the tide bound ferry! Galicia was at hand.

Mac was slightly damp, but not his spirits, as we safely disembarked. Most astonishingly, the fisherman even had a stamp, for our Pilgrim Passports! Can you work out which it is?

The first morning’s departure was scheduled from Lavra, a long the Atlantic coast , from Matosinhos. Our” leader” had given us the name of a bar / restaurant , where we were to rendezvous with the other pelegrinos, in our group. Fiasco….Despite the best efforts of our taxi driver and a very helpful local, it was concluded that  no such place existed! So, Mac and I decided to walk towards our destination for that day, Povoa de Varzim, hoping that we might come across them st some point; after all, there was only one way you can go. We walked through a time warp fishing village and along boardwalks, constructed to protect the sand dunes. The weather was beautiful, the sea breezes refreshing and the o dan was a constant companion. We soon crossed a lovely iron bridge across a river , when Mac’s phone rang….

One of the group informed us that they had all managed to meet, despite the bar now having a complete makeover and new name….😡 This did not come as a complete surprise to us, after all, Nuff said. We continued apace and were impressed by the boardwalk extensions, so much further than when I walked this route, solo, four years ago. And it was not too long before we could see Povoa in the distance; a popular seaside resort, now, but it’s origins are steeped in both fishing and exploration.

There are reminders all along the way and I was really pleased to come upon St Andre, where I had enjoyed a much needed coffee and water, four years ago – it had grown from a small kiosk.

Further artistic representations informed us as we drew steadily near Povoa, which despite its ” seaside” image, had a pleasant, bustling atmosphere. The seafood was excellent, too.
Despite the Casinos and numerous restaurants, nearby,traditional harvesting was still being undertaken- seaweed for fertiliser, raked up into ” hay bales “. And a spot of weekend fishing on deserted beaches.
I must not forget to include Vial da Conde, which is an interesting town, en route. Lovely harbour and a place where you can divert to the ” internal” Portuguese Caminho. We came across an amazing World War II memorial and unchanged scenes on the Oceanside.

Another reminder of Vila da Conde’s ancient heritage is the resplendent aqueduct.

A lot to take in, I know, and I am having to write this up in Spain,latterly, as Portugal, for all its numerous wonderful features, is not great for WiFi ! Still does not stop it being , for me, the most civilised country, I have ever had the privilege of visiting.

Friday,18 th August, was spent as a guest of SPORTNATION?BET, one of the sponsors of the England Cricket team’s most famous group of supporters – The Barmy  Army. This came about at the invitation of a close friend of mine, whose son-in-law, is a leading light in that company. The programme for the day looked a little daunting, with hospitality taking place in the Tally Ho Banquting Centre, which is based in the police sports’ ground, five minutes from the stadium….beginning at 11 am! Bearing in mind that play,at  the test match, the second day of the first day-night test match to take place in England, did not commence until 2pm. The programme for the morning was as follows:-

This prestigious event will take place at the Tally Ho Conference and Banqueting Centre, just five minutes down the road from Edgbaston. Please bring a copy of this email with you on the day, as it will double up as an e-ticket. 

 The proposed running order for the morning is as follows:

11.00am Doors open at Tally Ho 

11.30am Comedian 

12.00pm Seated buffet brunch served 

12.30pm Awards ceremony 

1.15pm End of awards and warm up for matches

We’re really excited to welcome Monty Panesar to host this year’s awards, alongside Billy the Trumpeter. As we all know, Monty is a legend in his own right, and we’re looking forward to hearing his cricketing tales of old, and his hopes for a comeback to first class cricket. Pictured are my amigo, Mick and in his left, Warren, another director of SPORTNATION?BET. And, Monty Panesar, ex-England spinbowler, being interviewed by equally legendary , BarmyArmy member, Billy the Trumpeter.

 Your ticket will also give you access to the post-match entertainment back at the Tally Ho from 9pm, where we will have a live band The Everly Pregnant Brothers, an eight piece Ukulele band from Sheffield. Their previous hit ‘Chip Pan’ stormed up the charts last Christmas, and flung the boys into a new stardom. If you’d like to check them out visit their Facebook account @EverlyPregnantBrothers  

 The bar will close at midnight.

There was no possible way,that we would last the pace, till midnight, even though we were almost abstemious in the taking of refreshment! The Barmy Army’s members follow the England cricket team, all over the world; I last encountered them at Gracelands, Cape Town, when we went to watch England versus South Africa. Instantly recognisable, either by their T-shirts and/or singing . Our first taste of the singing , and there was to be a lot of it as the day went on, was prior to lunch, when we were asked to stand ( Thank Goodness , not God Save the Queen ) and sing ” Jerusalem,”as a form of Grace, accompanied by Billy the Trumpeter.

There was a raffle, a quiz and an interview with the aforesaid Mony Panesar, who also presented the “Awards”, which ranged from Joe Root, England captain,by video- link, that gives an idea of the Army’s standing, to best female cricketer of the year .

I got a close up of one of these prestigious awards, on our table, an uncanny resemblance to one of the seven dwarfs….?

After a very enjoyable lunch, we were given a brief taste of the highlight of the post- match entertainment – “The Everly Pregnant Brothers”- some of you may be of an age, where you recognise the ” play” on the ” Everly Brothers”, a wonderful duo of thecesrly sixties – the EPBs were far from wonderful, enthusiastic, yes, politically incorrect, yes, entertaining….no; that reinforced our avowed intention not to return for the evening bash!

Ominously, during the above, thankfully short Set, a thunderstorm rolled over the Tally Ho sports ground at about 12.36.

Years ago, this would have put the start of the match back by a couple of hours; not, today,though, the Warwickshire ground staff were well prepared and play began, promptly, with the majestic and imperturbable Alistaire  Cook looking for a double century and his greenhorn of a partner, Milan, looking for his first, international, half- century, both of which were achieved, quite comfortably against a somewhat tepid West Indian, fast bowling attack.

We were in Edgbaston’s famous Eric Hollies’ , Stand, Row E, with a great side -on   view of the wicket, surrounded by a good natured group of supporters, drinking beer in copious amounts, which only encouraged them to join in even more loudly, with Billy the Trumpeter, who was ( thanfully ), a few rows behind. The fancy dress was  a great part of the entertainment; the range was endless.

The weather forecast for the day had not beeen good, but play continued, without interruption until about 7.3o pm, under the flood lights, until heavy rain brought proceedings to a premature close. 
It had been a great day’ s sporting entertainment and although I had misgivings about the Barmy Army scenario, they were proved to be unfounded…their avowed intention is to support England, with song and cheer…was just that. Not for the faint hearted, possibly , and I won’t be joining any time soon, but an enjoyable experience, nevertheless.

This is the information about the walk, from SC Ramblers’ website

Walk Start TimePlease Note start time 08:30Walk directions2Drive to Lichfield and follow the ring road A51. At the roundabout take the A515 Ashbourne road. Drive through Ashbourne and continue north on the A515 Buxton road for 5 miles. Turn Left signposted to Millfield and Alstonefield and on reaching the valley bottom look out for the Right turn up the hill to Alstonefield. In the village the road turns Right and the car park is on the Left next to the toilets.Explorer Map OL24. Grid ref: 131 556

Walk The WalkA walk of about 9 miles from the pretty village of Alstonefield north of Ashbourne. From the car park we walk round the north side of Wetton Hill to Wetton Mill before heading up a pleasant valley past Sugar Loaf to Summer Hill Farm and so to the top of Ecton Hill with wonderful 360 degree views. We drop down to the Manifold Valley and traverse round the north side of Ecton before making our way east and south to Narrowdale and thence back to Alstonefield. With the earlier start we should be in time to drive back to the Garden Centre south of Ashbourne for a nice cup of tea and cake.

There is one fairly long and steady ascent before lunch and another upward gradient toward the end of the walk.

Well, there was more than one ascent! But a good reintroduction into ” serious” walking after two months; this picturesque scenery in and around the Manifold Valley, is only an hour’s drive from Sutton Coldfield. Sparsely populated, for instance, the pretty village of Alstonefield has only about 300 inhabitants and it was there we began our circular walk.
Relieved that we walked around this hill , into the Manifold Valley.
Coffee was taken in a picnic area, very popular with families, as you can splash and paddle, hereabouts; I resisted the temptation.

One of the joys, for me, of our Ramblers’ walks, apart from the obvious pleasures of the countryside, is the amount of our industrial / archaeological history that can be found. The  notice boards, at this now disused Copper mine, were as informative as the site was fascinating , on Ecton Hill.
There are a variety of ways people  can enjoy the countryside ; this isn’t one of them, for me.
There were some interesting dwellings, en route ; This house was intriguing.
A complete contrast to an abandoned farmhouse, we came across, slightly further on. It was a sad setting and I found it quite “spooky”.
This walk was almost ten miles and I realised that I have some training to put in – midweek walks – to regain my fitness for the Portuguese Coastal Camino, beginning in September 1st. An excellent day.

“The seven wise men of Greece, so famous for their wisdom all the world over, acquired all that fame, each of them, by a single sentence consisting of two or three words. ” Robert SouthSo, this has to be a short Blog, if not a wise one.

It seems strange to be sitting at home , on the first morning after returning, without the familiar prospect of opening the motorhome door to strong sunlight and the constant nattering of crickets. This journey took us through seven countries; the destination, Greece, being the most memorable. First, the people, almost invariably welcoming and good humoured. The only other two  nations about which I could make a similar generalisation, are Portugal and Jordan. On a practical level, motorhoming needs good roads and signage. The roads and motorways are much improved; the signage is dire. There are so many other good reasons to explore Greece. The food, the wines, especially from Nemea and of course the ancient sites and beautiful bays.

It’s not bargain basement when it comes to costs – no such thing as a cheap holiday – dining out, for example, is not much cheaper than here, although the settings more than compensate for that . Coming back, it was necessary to take a ferry, leaving Igoumenitsa at 00.30. The port arrangements were not quite as chaotic as Bari, but came a close second. Only drivers can take their vehicles through the port gate; passengers have to go through the check – in lounge and reunite on the quayside.

Driving through almost the entire length of Italy, I was struck by the recklessness of some of the driving, where indicating is non- existent and the seriously expensive cost of camping. The prices were beyond anything seen before and that is such a pity, because the Italians are great to be with, on holiday. You are pretty much bound to use the motorways for long journeys and they are all toll roads. As you approach the Alps, by way of the outskirts of Turin, you can be mesmerised by the enormity of the peaks and baffled as to how you will get through them , to France. The answer was quite sobering – € 58.80 to traverse through the Frejus tunnel – 8 miles long.

I have to confess that I experienced feelings of relief on entering France, from a driver’s point of view – orderliness and etiquette-after 800 miles of Italian and Greek roads , it was most welcome. Pont d’Ain was the evening’s destination and a final BBQ , on a typical, semi rural site.

Passing Bourgeois en Bresse, by motorway, to South of Lyon, we took to the N Roads to cross towards Soissons, through the ” Côte d’Or “, with so many Burgundian ” village fleuries” to admire. The final night was spent in Peronne, for the first time, English voices and as ever, many Dutch campers. Had a meal at a local Brasserie -Rabbit Pate to die for! I wished there had been time to spend a day exploring the town, for its World War associations and industrial archaeology. But, Calais called and after a stop at a cheap , wine warehouse,  the 11.35 P & O ferry, to Dover.

If I returned to Greece, so much more to discover, I think I would fly/drive, because there are so many places where it would not be possible to explore in a motorhome, bearing in mind what a mountainous country it is, not forgetting 1400 islands!

A return to France is on the cards – for all the obvious reasons – not the least of which, is its accessibility .

So, what are the immediate demands? A wedding to attend on Saturday, at Birmingham Council House – a posh do – have to wear a monkey suit, something I loathe- what is this thing about aping your betters? Quite a contrast to vest and shorts. Still, I am sure it will be a great occasion. Then, on Sunday , down to Berkhamsted for a birthday – guess whose? And four days’ house sitting . It will be a while,yet, before I get round to the garden and the allotment .

Then, I have the small matter of a Camino, beginning in Porto, 1st September; have to get some fitness back before then.

Hope everyone is having a good Summer, wherever you are.