ensuitepilgrim's Blog

Once again Dorchester beckoned after accepting another invitation from my sister Penny.

As if by magic, my brother Matt appeared just after our arrival, fresh from a flight to Southampton from Holland. A terrific surprise- another one of those spontaneous decisions for which he is becoming infamous! We made a quick trip across the road to the Wednesday Market and then after lunch a visit to the Shire Hall Court of Justice – rather a misnomer considering all the heinous and unjust sentences that were decided there.

There are many other interesting buildings that you pass en route Shire Hall.

The courthouse museum has a very impressive facade and after ascending a few steps you are instantly made aware of its, at times, nefarious history.

The museum aims to share stories of people who experienced the justice system in Dorset from days gone by. With lots of history and stories to tell visitors are treated to an insight into what the criminal justice and injustice system meant to people through the ages. It’s probably one of the only chances people can see what prison cells from the 18th. century looked like and experience what it feels like to walk into a courtroom!

You can choose from a selection of its famous cases on the audio guide and I had no hesitation in choosing the Tolpuddle Martyrs. All the exhibits, cells and courthouse are pretty much as they were and it makes for a gripping visit.

There was also a temporary exhibition by the TUC, which was more than fitting as the outcry caused by the sentencing of the Men from Tolpudddle caused such an outcry, it is often credited as the genus of the trade union movement.

The afternoon sunshine made a walk along the River Frome even more enjoyable and the heading on a noticeboard proved irresistible.

After all that history and walking it was good to return to a favourite pub of Penny and Matt’s – The Convivial Rabbit, tucked down an alley – a micropub with a warm welcome.

The next day saw the five of us off on the walk to Thomas Hardy’s cottage, though by a different way this time, passing a beautiful mansion on the way.

And crossing the River again, we couldn’t help but draw a comparison between the notice on the bridge and the merciless sentencing we witnessed the day before – a real predilection for deporting people for relatively minor offences.

Whilst some visited Hardy’s cottage, Penny, Matt and I had an all too brief walk in ThornCombe Woods and Puddletown Forest; two places that were great favourites and inspirational for Hardy as a youth. And you could see why…idyllic woodlands.

We made our way back via Stinsford Church and paused in the churchyard to look at the headstone of another great poet.

The sun was in just the right place to snap the beautiful stain glass above the altar.

And Hannah insisted on taking a sibling snap.

The late afternoon found us on the Jurassic Coast,overlooking Ringstead Bay with views of Portland and Weymouth.

. A quaint church lies below and you can just make it out from this viewpoint.

Saint Catherine’s By the Sea. Resembling nothing more than a garden shed, the tiny timber built church on the slopes of White Nothe is in a spectacular setting. Built in 1926,it has recently been restored and services are held here now. The engraved glass window is by Simon Whistler, son of Lawrence and is in memory of a local farmer and Rachel Nickell, victim of a notorious murder on Wimbledon Common in 1992.

The aforementioned sun was setting splendidly over Chesil Besch as we made our way back to the car and then a 20 minute drive back to Dorchester.

A thoroughly enjoyable couple of days in great company and hospitality. Hopefully, we shall be back for further exploration of this wonderful county.

Penny and Matt preparing a great dinner in Penny’s apartment, Brewery Square,Dorchester. Matt was over from Holland for a few days. I had two, but we packed lots in.

Our first walk was to Maiden Castle, an ancient hill site – biggest of its kind in G B. The weather was very blustery up top, but not cold.

On returning, via the very impressive Queen’s Avenue, we called in at another ancient site,adjacent to the town – the Maumbury rings – it has a chequered history for such a compact, little site.

That evening we visited a couple of excellent pubs, including the Convivial Rabbit , where all the drought beers and cider are on tap.

Next day, began with a walk around the weekly Wednesday market – just across the road from us and what a feast for the eyes – for once not dominated by textiles, instead a variety of local produce and interesting brick a brac.

Then after coffee in the Shire Hall, seat of the old county court – a place I intend to visit with its history involving such famous events as the Tolpuddle Martyrs and the grim Judge Jefferson – we walked in to Hardy Country.

Dorchester has many links with Hardy, The Mayor of Casterbridge for one. We walked along the Mill stream, then crossing by the River Frome, we passed through the water meadows. After what seemed longer than 2 1/2 miles and much Blackberry foraging, we came to Thomas Harry’s Cottage, bequeathed by his sister to the National Trust.

I must confess to not having read any Hardy since my schooldays, but after this visit my interest has been rekindled. The setting of the cottage, with the surrounding woodlands is memorable and yet simple, like the lives his family led there and a habitat to which he returned time after time, despite fame and fortune.

The gardens are maintained, too, pretty much as he knew them. The size of the cottage belies how small the rooms are and all as was. I was very taken by his simple writing desk, a gift from his mother.

The bedroom was set for dressing and a recipe book in the kitchen reminded us of the Victorian era and its class expectations.

Apparently Harry’s eldest memory was when he was two years old, awakening in his cot to find a snake cosily asleep on his chest.

The plainness and practicality of every room was evident – the only ” modern” facilities being the dirt water closet and the well. We were encouraged to draw some water from the well, but nobody was keen on the closet.

Adjacent to the garden was a shed which housed the cider press, a drink as popular then as now.

The peacefulness of this place – no surfaced roads nearby – was enticing and we reluctantly left the garden to visit another place, literally, close to his heart.

A 10 minute walk across the fields brought us to where Thomas Hardy’s heart is buried in St. Michael’s churchyard, Stinsford. (Stinsford appears in his novels and poems under the fictional name of Mellstock.) … However, after his death, the authorities at Westminster Abbey suggested he be buried in ‘Poets’ Corner’.

An ancient site, the present building underwent considerable change over the centuries, but it remains as Hardy knew it.

Hardy’s approach to religion was ambivalent. He loved the Bible and knew many passages by heart and also fondly remembered the choirs. But he loved the setting and the place this church had in his family’s life. He was christened there, too.

In 1930, a stained glass window was placed as a memorial to him, with his favourite quotation from 1 Kings 19 enscribed within it.

The call of the pulpit was irresistible and I had to give a brief sermon.

A memorable visit and it has enthused me to read some autobiography of him – his relationships were complex, as this extract shows.

And which novel to begin with? I think it has to be ” Under the Greenward Tree” as its characters and setting closely recall the two settings visited today.

“If we be doomed to marry, we marry; if we be doomed to remain single we do.” “To dwellers in a wood, almost every species of tree has its voice as well as its feature.” “There’s a friendly tie of some sort between music and eating.”

Canyelles is a town in the upper east of the Garraf comarca (area) in the south of Barcelona territory, Catalonia, Spain.

I have to confess that I had never heard of the place until Tom booked the villa,last year. There is an old town and a 15 th century castle nearby.

Its chief attractions are its location, in the hills , its calmness , good services,especially the Eurostar supermarket,where we would go nightly to select from a great choice of fresh fish,meat and vegetables- not to mention the wine.

Tom arrived in the afternoon,we had already met the local agent and set up a few necessities, including coking a meal for when Dan was to arrive,which wasn’t until quite late -very slow at The Barcelona car hire booth. Great excitement when the children got to explore and saw the pool. Very amused when Martha asked:

” Grandma,is this your new house?” – we wish!

So on Sunday morning there began a series of days at the beach ( 15 minutes drive to Vilanova y Geltrú ) in the morning,lunch,quiet time then the remaining hours in the pool. The children were indefatigable in their delight.

The adults were pretty fond of it,too. Tom was the inspiration behind most of the cooking,mainly on the state of the art BBQ -we enjoyed a feast every night.

Monday,6 th August was the great day and the main reason why we were sharing this super place together. Barbara’s 70th Birthday. Beautiful fine,silver bracelet from the children,lots of cards and a table decoration made by Rosie Power, one of our Rambleros.

So, after a short morning at the beach it was back to the ranch,shower and off for a celebration lunch in Canyelles.

The routine of beach and pool continued for the next two days – it was very warm,33* but bearable,given that we were never far away from water as you can see.

Thursday was overcast and showery as forecast, so some of us drove down to Vilanova for a walkabout and a visit to the Catalonia Railway Museum. Lonely Planet was quite dismissive of Vilanova, whoever wrote that section could not have visited the extremely helpful thirst office,where we obtained a town plan and suggested walks. The town has some Belle Époque villas, built in the 19 th century by citizens returning from South America, having made their fortunes in a variety of enterprises.

I really enjoyed the railway museum,lifelong love of the steam era. Very informative notice boards in English about every exhibit and I got real sense of the impact the railways had, both on the social dimension and the industrial scene.

Friday saw us all back st the beach for the last time. Vilanova’s esplanade and beaches are wonderful and so child friendly. Tom got into naval mode and soon everyone had the chance to go to sea.

Ice creams were called for – Martha in raptures over hers and Florence was curious about them all – well,Florence is curious about everything! Jake and Martha had great times together.

It was another great day and we were unanimous in our enjoyment of the whole week – a momentous time had by all.

We went our separate ways on Saturday. Tom and Vickee off to the Dordogne for a week on a campsite. Nelly and Dan back to Berkhamsted,via Barcelona.

We had to be back by Tuesday, giving us the best part of four days for the return journey to Brum via Calais.

We set off at midday, after tidying everything up, heading for the Midi-Pyrenees region via the Cadi Tunnel, thus avoiding any serpentine like twists and turns over the mountains.

Our destination was Montech, a pretty town on the Entre Deux Mers Canal, which runs from the Med. to the Atlantic. It is also known for its Puente de L’eau, a stretch of waterway ingeniously designed to move barges,bypassing a series of adjacent locks.

The Sunday market was a feast of fare,brought in by local farmers , dealers and an enjoyable coffee was taken at La Place, overlooking the square.

Having spent two days in Montech there was a long drive upto any destination within a hundred miles or sos striking distance of Calais. We reached Pont de L’Arche, on the River Eure,chosen because we had stayed there before and it is a small, peaceful site, within handy walking distance of the town, where we experienced a traditional Moroccan meal.

Calais was reached in just over two hours on Tuesday morning,having booked the 12.35 crossing with P & O, the night before,giving time for some shopping and wine buying.

It was Calais au Soleil, a rarity – and the crossing, though late in departing was very smooth.

So, 30 days and over 2000 miles later we reached home; even the Dartford Crossing and the M25 were bearable.

The driving in France and Spain had been a pleasure – great infrastructure- not a single hold up. Unlike the unlovely M 20, with its scruffy weed covered centre barriers and three sets of roadworks in 30 minutes – welcome back to Little Britain.

I don’t suppose there will be a holiday quite like that again and we all had a great time.

An easy journey of an hour or so to Cambrils to a very well situated site – Camping Platja Cambrils – large pool and beaches a five minute walk away.

One day, Hannah and I walked along the passeig, past numerous villas and apartments to Salou. The last time we went through Salou it left a very unfavourable impression, but what a pleasant surprise – no tackiness although busy and slightly less classy than Cambrils. It is generally associated with the nearby Portaventura theme park, but now boasts green spaces and a school of music.

Took the local bus back as the temperature eased past 36*

Cambrils old town merges with The Passeig Miramar, just by its little Port.

There are some interesting sculptures here, almost acting as sentries on the border between the two.

Sometimes, all this walking and shopping can get just too much.

Much of the time was spent at the beach or pool.

Evenings brought the inevitable delights of cold drinks and bbqs.

Cambrils retains its charm – the old streets are a pleasure to wander along

and the locals, very friendly.

Simple things – all locally sourced.

Hope you like the new hat 🎩. Must get a haircut before meeting up with the family, at the Villa in Canyelles.

Last day of the sejour here. Six peaceful days on an excellent campsite – Camping Eucalyptis.

The site has a lake with wildfowl, terrapins and fish – a deliberate gesture meant to replicate the flora and fauna of the Ebro Delta.

It has been a restful few days – the shade of the Eucalyptus trees,

respite from 33+* temperatures, a grassy edged swimming pool and an endless, wide beach 300 metres walk away.

Time has been spent simply; beach walks, rural walks.

Reading and yesterday ,

an excursion by launch up the Ebro Delta – a highlight. By taxi from the campsite to St Jaume, then across the impressive bridge to Deltebre.

The original pontoon that ferried vehicles and people across the river was preserved inland – some Camino signs were noticed – part of the Camino Catalan. Pondering on how may pelegrinos had crossed this way en route to the Rioja region, to join up with the Camino Frances.

Wherever I am in Spain I always find myself somewhere on a Camino.

Then a mile walk along the riverbank to take the vessel named “ The Beast”.

The company styles itself as –

Cruceros Olmos – though the affable crew were as unlike buccaneers as you could wish. Even allowing Hannah to take the wheel! Risky business …

There was an English commentary as we cruised along, pointing out the Eel netting points, the practice of growing rice,the changes in the landscape as we neared the Med and simple statistics like the 8 metre depth of the Ebro and its 250 metre width,930 km in length beginning north of Zaragoza .

Some fabulous flowers and unusual trees.

BBQs were a feature – Delicioso!

The Ebro Delta is worth longer stay, it would be a great advantage to have your own transport to visit the many other sites of interest in this unique part of Spain – the Southern most part of Catalonia. The Ebro Delta is one of the largest wetland areas in the western Mediterranean region, at 320 km2 (79,000 acres). The Ebro delta has expanded rapidly on soils washed downriver over the centuries.

Tomorrow, Saturday, moving up to Cambrils-another contrasting stay in prospect.

PROLOGUE

Seems like five weeks already. Usually, just the change in the weather creates that feeling of timelessness,especially when you are driving relatively long distances, but we’d had soaring temperatures at home for a month.

I think it was good fortune in the places chosen to stay in,plus for the most part excellent driving conditions – the sort you will never experience in the UK. As a throwaway thought, France winning the World Cup helped too – something else the EU is good at!

————-     ——————  ——————-  ———————- ————- —————

Leaving SC, for France at 21.45 on Sunday evening – how appropriate that they should have won the World Cup earlier in the day. Hopefully, it would be a good omen. The ferry leaves Dover at 02.40. After an uneventful journey down the M1,M25 and M20 we arrived at the port early enough to be put on the 01.15, with no hanging about at the quayside – hats off to DFDS Ferries.

The plan was to stop at a service station as soon as we got on the motorway in the direction of Abbeville. Unfortunately, the first on was full of slumbering lorries and so we carried on until reaching The Baie de Somme, one of our favourite stops from the past. It is designed to fit in with the Valley of the Somme wetlands and is all boardwalks and ducks – after a three hour nap, the traditional picnic breakfast of cold sausages and hard- boiled eggs was enjoyed overlooking one of the streams designed to fit in with the surroundings and with ducklings for company.

Then off in the direction of Rouen, using mainly toll free roads. There were some slow sections around Evreux and Chartres, but after coffee and lunch stops, 560 miles to the good from Vesey Road,we made it to Châteauroux and its excellent Campsite. Up for a stroll over the river into neighbouring Deos , where the remains of a Clunian abbey were explored before a drink at a nearby bar.

The next morning was fine and dry and using mainly motorways we headed for an area around Caussade, the Quercy region, by passing Brive la Galliarde en route, along the A 20, a mainly toll free motorway, we had not driven along before. It was a good journey as the route was undulating and quite twisty, for a motorway – which is good because Mways can be monotonous, even in France. After another couple of hundred miles the campsite chosen was a little beyond Caussade by the small, medieval village of Montricoux . This proved to be an excellent decision as we were greeted on arrival by a very cheerful and welcoming lady, with good English who gave us a choice of emplacements.

Pitched up, the pool was taken advantage of and the BBQ was good to go. Wednesday proved to be very warm and after an exploration of the small but unspoilt village and its Spar supermarket, the pool proved to be a unanimous choice. Hannah’s Meteo forecasted an early evening storm and as sure as oeufs, in it rolled at 4pm. Some fairly heavy showers as well. This did nothing to dampen the spirits of the crowd at the bar’s Karaoke evening, where number after number was greatly appreciated by the 100% French audience. I did ‘t think Buddy Holly or Billy Fury would be on the set list, so I just enjoyed the raucous atmosphere for an hour or so.

A randonnee was planned for Thursday morning and using the guidesheet provided by our lovely host, we set off up through the village and along deserted lanes, through forests, with good views of the Aveyron Gorges and countryside. Two things stood out – spider webs on one section which were formed across the narrow path, some head high and on other sections the number of different butterflies.

We walked about 9 miles and met only three people – some hilly sections along stony paths which put me in mind of the Camino.

On retuning to the village coffee was taken at a bar next to some grounds where a three day Reggae festival was to begin the next day.

An unlikely venue, really, but part of several Musical weekends planned during the summer. Not sad to be missing it as after half an hour of Reggae, to me it always begins to sound the same.

Having stayed on French campsites now for the best part of fifty years,

Camping Clos Lalande would be in my top ten Desert Island Camping venues, for its peacefulness, the design, friendliness of mainly French campers an ambience you can only find on the best sites.

Then it was Spain. Via the Cadillac Tunnel and a spectacular drive at times, though quite twisty and turns near our destination, Camping Solsonese in Solsona. A thousand and five miles since leaving Vesey Road.

Another good campsite and an enjoyable dinner on their terrace – Carpaccio of Figs, local ham and cheese for my starter – delicioso.

On Saturday, 119 Miles to Camping Pobleda in the Monsanto National Park. Another beautiful drive and the location of the site, at the foot of the village is stunning – pity about lack of local facilities though, like a butcher,Baker, etc; especially as the drive down of about 200 metres along a really narrow street was unnerving – wouldn’t want to meet anything on the way!

The weather is set for 33* for all of next week.

Not sure where we shall be, though.

           Santiago de Compostela 

“Santiago has the privilege of having been, throughout the whole of the Second Millennium, the great confluence of the European road network along which the preaching of the Gospels spread, which is the basis for the civilisation of this old continent.

We may, therefore, say that the Ways to Santiago are the common denominator in European culture. Therefore, in a Europe which more than ever wishes to see itself strong and cohesive, speaking in one voice in all its languages, these routes which are public places for convergence and harmony, should be respected and promoted. On them, any Pilgrim feels like a citizen of the world, allowing him to acquire perspective on his convictions in an ecumenical atmosphere of openness and tolerance.

Into this complex network of Jacobean routes coming from all the corners of Europe are threaded those which begin in Portugal and these are as many as the actual opportunities for access from each locality to the Apostle’s tomb. However, out of all of them, the royal Oporto-Barcelos–Valença road has a particular importance, as here almost all the others come together, reinforcing this road as the backbone of the Portuguese Ways to Santiago.“

From the Guide to the Camhino Português published by the Associação dos Amigos do Caminho Português de Santiago.””

Pp. Johnnie Walker.

If there was ever a city I love returning to, it is Santiago de Compostela.

The Sutton Coldfield Rambleros had two and a half days, as we were staying at the atmospheric San Martín de Pinario, just behind the Cathedral.

Sunday evening, people did their own thing, Tapas….

Monday dawned damply,but I had things, still, to do.

The first  job was to get everyones Compostelas from the Pilgrim Office. Normally, you have to queue, sometimes for up to two hours, but I was able to obtain them as a “ Grupo “, with Hannah’s help, as she took all our Pilgrim passports and the information sheet, recording our details, Eg age, reason for the pilgrimage, etc; down at 7.45 am.

I was able to collect them, with tubes, at 11 am – no queuing!

Rambleros made their own ways around the city, taking in the Cathedral, of course. I had prearranged a meeting with Johnnie Walker, author of thirteen different Camino guides, to help choose a restaurant for our celebration dinner. Was able to book us into our own dining room, for that evening, at Casa Felisa. Great to meet up with JW again.

We met as arranged,in the Hotel bar at 7 pm. I had just communicated details of the evening’s arrangements, when I was stopped in my tracks by a presentation from Rosie, on behalf of the group….I’m rarely lost for words… it was such a generous act and an individually signed card, too. Just to say I was  quite overwhelmed. Muchas, Muchas Gracias.

The evening meal,a la carte, for a change, was very enjoyable. 

TUESDAY. OUR EXCURSION BY COACH TO THE COSTA DE MORTE

Some while back, I had booked an excursion for the group, taking us, first,to a famous point on the Pilgrim Route to Finisterre, the Puente de Maceira.

Then,a coffee stop at Muros on the seafront.

We drove on to the only waterfalls that actually cascade as a river, into the sea. The spectacular Fervenza de Rio Ezaro.

https://youtu.be/Hg0XUqG0XgQ Paul McCartney singing “Waterfalls”

From there we travelled on to Finisterre, with its famous lighthouse and .000 marker stone.

Finally,to Muxia, with its special church , fronting the ocean, and the rocks,legend says, formed part of the “stone” boat, which brought the remains of St James to Spain. Mm…

The Virxe da Barca sanctuary is a church located in Muxía, Spain. It was destroyed by a fire that was started by lightning on 25 December 2013.

There is also a granite monument, dedicated to all the volunteers that helped to clear a massive oil spillage from a tanker,some years ago.

It was an all day excursion and we had the services of a guide, Antonio, throughout the day – he was knowledgeable and funny – the best combination.Although he was rather prone to confusing Galician history with legend!

He did explain the reasons for the stone built Horreos that are so characteristic of Galicia . Sea salt proof.

Ubiquitous on the Camino are the Cruceiros – ancient and modern, sometimes found in unusual places.

Our evening meal was taken in the San Pinario refectory- complete with pulpit,  upto which one or two Rambleros climbed,to wave to us below.

San Pinario lived up to my expectations, in every way. All  the staff were  friendly and very efficient.

Our barman pretended to be horrified when Roger ordered us Brandy sours -“Limon in Brandy? Que?” A true Galician; great sense of humour, he needed it, dealing with us!

The evening in the bar was still being enjoyed by a raucous group of Austrian Pelegrinos in full song,  with accompanying moves, when I bid everyone good night.

We had an early meet on the steps at 7 am, where our preordered taxis awaited, to take us to the airport.

And so, journey almost done. I am making notes for this Blog, in Madrid airport, where we have a bit of a wait between flights.

I had already expressed some of my feelings about our Rambleros , as a group, but I think it’s worth repeating.

The group always showed the Camino Spirit, in helping and encouraging each other and me😥.

They can all be really proud of their achievement- 77 miles in 6 days. Some of those days quite damp at times.

Before we began I was very fond of them all, but now I am also full of admiration.

As someone once said:

 “I think friendship is based more on shared experiences than incompatibility, or attraction.”

Thanks, also , to Barbara and Hannah, for all their patience and assistance.

I met many who were walking towards Santiago & many who were walking away from somewhere.

I’m not sure which lot I was with!

It was a pity that the rain yesterday, deterred people from visiting Padron, as it is such a historic place in the context of the Camino.Legend has it that St James began his ministry here and also it is the place to where his remains were brought, after his martyrdom in Rome. There is much to discover about the Camino, here, not to mention the famous Padron Peppers.

The Camino bisected the hotel car park and we were quickly under way, under fairer skies and it was not long before we were removing outer layers as the sun broke through.

Quite a variety of sections, today, the usual woods of Eucalyptus, Pine and Oak, small pueblos and the interesting church:- details from a local guide.

“The Sanctuary of A Escravitude is only 5 km from Padrón’s historic quarter, on the way to Santiago de Compostela. The church began to be built in the 16th century on the site of the so-called “Fonte Santa” (Holy Fountain), financed by donations of worshippers who visited the place due to the water’s healing properties. Its main elements are the central stairway, under which the fountain is housed, and the two large towers that border the central nave and date from the 19th century.

There is an interesting account about a miracle related to the Fonte Santa that may explain the sanctuary’s origin. According to the legend, a sick man that was doing the Way of St. James to cure his dropsy stopped there for a drink, and 72 hours later he had been cured without any medical help. On seeing that he had been healed, the man exclaimed: “Grazas, Virxe, que me libraches da escravitude do meu mal” (“Thanks, Virgin, for releasing me from the slavery of my ailment”).”

There was a floral decoration in the church grounds, celebrating the recent feast of Corpus Christi.

We made the inevitable stop for coffee near Faramello, after passing a Galician fiesta of Scarecrows, which looked as it would get quite lively, later.

Rosie looks made up with her choice! Not all buildings are in good repair and we noticed abandoned houses in every village; some quite dramatic.

Could not write a Blog about a Camino through Galicia, without including a photo of a” horreos- a traditional, free standing barn on stone pillars, where grain was stored to prevent spoilage by vermin.

S de C was on the horizon and soon through suburbs and Sunday deserted main roads, we came into the Cathedral square… 77 miles accomplished and everyone intact and just a little proud of themselves; quite rightly. They had reached the end of the Camino Portugues…hopefully, it’s impact will remain with them for a long time.

More on our time in Santiago to come.

Natural paths, quiet lanes, long established woodland and two river valleys – but rain. Two slight climbs up the Bermana Valley, then Cortinas – the “ high” point. Descent then into the Valga Valley.

There are always churches and chapels along Caminos, for obvious reasons; most in good repair and in attractive settings.

Rambleros are always in search of coffee and we were well received in this Pelegrino orientated stop. With its counter, displaying our route.

This tape is 20 Km in official length, though we walked further on from Padron, eventually, to our hotel. At times we were following a Roman Road…

Passing some eye catching sights, both floral and faunal….Bottoms up!

Everyone was relieved to reach Hotel Scala, a big , bustling hotel with parties of Spanish Golden Oldies – made us feel young – and school groups. Dinner was served after Hannah did a double act with the waiter,to a round of applause,  in getting everyone their correct Pre- ordered menu.. of course they ha d forgotten ! At the end of dinner, the same super efficient waiter presented us with three bottles of Orujo, for digestive purposes only….

“Buena salud”

We set off along a busy stretch of main road, but soon went right to the village of Arcade, famous now for its oysters, but historically for being the place where the Spanish vanquished Napoleon’s troops during the War of Independence. A handsome bridge , the Pontesampaio and  Cafe a Romana – last chance for refreshments before Pontevedra, with fine views of both the bridge and the Estuary. The rain started, as you can tell, by the impressive ponchos on show. And a gull had its eyes on the Churros.

We passed three impressive statues, one featuring Santiago, looking serenely Northwards and we obtained our “Sellos” – Stamps for our Pilgrim passport – at the chapel of Santa Marta.

( Author’s note – WordPress is putting the photos above the text, but they should be obvious!)

We reached Pontevedra and our hotel, Rias Bajas….sadly the rain continued, so we enjoyed the comfort of this fine hotel, until it stopped, around 6 pm, when we were able to walkabout the city, which has much resonance for Pelegrinos, especially the fine Church, La Pelegrina, where for €1.00, you can climb 64 steps to look down on its classic structure.

There is so much to see here and just rambling around the narrow, arcaded streets and interesting squares is a pleasure in itself.

Dinner was taken in the Rias Bajas hotel;extremely good and breakfast the next morning was a feast- plus a sunny sky under which we moved on to Caldas de Reis.