The Updates for S C Rambleros Camino Ingles – Information

8 Oct

Agreed, the journey seems to take so long and go by so fast!

Rambleros Camino Ingles November Update

“A pilgrim is a wanderer with a purpose

Peace Pilgrim”

We have 16 Rambleros – all flights booked.

Barbara Twort

Hannah Twort

John Twort

Rob Halley

Mike Fowler

Tom Halstead

Roger Gallier

Phil Gambles

Trish Gambles

Anita Wilkins

June Wright

Chris Vann

Sonia Taylor

Denise Sturch

Merlin Rangel

Gillian Fitzpatrick

Thanks for persevering with the Ryanair website, which struggles with the million plus hits it gets each day. I see Ryanair have shut it down for a couple of days in order to give it some TLC.

Transfer from S de C airport by coach to our hotel in Ferrol.

Accommodation has been booked using a mixture of Booking.com and direct contact. Final booking was made,Tuesday 6 th November.

DESTINATIONS,DISTANCES AND ELEVATIONS

I have rounded off Kms.

As you will see, we have a gentle couple of days to begin with.

There are no hills of any significance until the third day.

Breakfast prices, where available, are based on current prices.

Mon 9 th September Transfer to Hotel Almendra ( breakfast €3.50 )

Accommodation in singles and twins.

Tue 10 th 12.5 km to Hotel Kensington (Breakfast & Dinner booked )

Accommodation is in two singles seven singles.

No inclines of any significance until after the Mino/Betanzos stage.

Wed 11 th 13 km to Hotel Iberia, Cabanas/Pontedeume ( buffet breakfast,price tbc )

Accommodation in single, double and quadruple rooms opp. the beach

Thu 12 th 11 km to Hotel La Terraza ,Mino ( breakfast €4.oo )

Accommodation in twin rooms and one double.

Fri 13 th ( hope you are not superstitious)

30 km to Hotel Canaima, Meson do Vento ( breakfast/dinner )

We can break this section down and avoid a hill,by using taxis,if required.

Accommodation in twins,triples and 1 quadruple.

Sat 14 th 24 km to Albergue Camino Real,Sigueiro.

Accommodation in 2 dormitories and mixture of rooms.

Breakfast available.

This refurbished Albergue has the highest ratings of all the places we are staying and very reasonable rates.

Sun 15th 16 km to Hotel Avenida, Santiago de Compostela

Breakfast included.

Accommodation in singles and mainly twins.

Where dinner is not reserved, there will be the option of the hotel, or somewhere in the locality.

More info. nearer the time.

LUGGAGE TRANSFER AND TRAIN TICKETS

We shall be using the Correos for luggage transfer, as last time.

Train tickets,to and from Stansted,can be booked in advance on The Trainline website, from June next year.

As ever, get in touch if you have a query.

Hope to see you out rambling soon.

Regards and best,

Please acknowledge receipt of this message by sending me your

Mobile number.

Rambleros Camino Ingles – December Update

Just as a painter paints,

and a ponderer ponders,

a writer writes,

and a wanderer wanders

CATHEDRAL SQUARE SANTIAGO AT CHRISTMAS

Feliz navidad y un año nuevo y tranquilo.

One wet morning recently I did a rough total of the walking and rambling I had enjoyed this year, including the June Camino and my solo walks.

It is approximate because I don’t count everyday walks,Eg down to Sutton or taking the grandchildren to the park!

Hannah has recently put the Fitbit App. on my phone – so I shall have an accurate daily total – it’s free and no hassle.

The total amounted to 1400 miles – rounded off.

But best to remember that….

“A journey is best measured in friends, rather than miles.”

2019 has Caterina’s Italian adventure booked – not sure of distances

and the Camino Primitivo in June – about 190 miles.

Then the Ingles in September.

I mention these figures simply to remind ourselves of just how much walking we are capable of without excessive training routines – though I have nothing but admiration for those who do follow such disciplines.

With the holidays approaching I thought it would be wise to share the story of a fellow pilgrim. Remember to stroll slowly 😉

Friends- Please Be Careful.

Yesterday I went to a Christmas party. I had a few beers, followed by a few cocktails, followed by a few shots….

I still had the sense to know that I was over the limit. That’s when I decided to do what I have never done before: I took a cab home.

Sure enough, there was a police road block on the way home, and since it was a cab, they waved it past. I arrived home safely without incident. This was both a great relief and a surprise because I had never driven a cab before. I don’t even know where I got it from and now that it is in my garage, I don’t know what to do with it. 🤷‍♂️😂

2019

There will be a request at some point for € 20.00 to pay for our coach transfer from S de C airport to Ferrol.

I shall order our Pilgrim Passports and add them on to the above.

Transfer by train to and from Stansted – I shall be in touch in plenty of time to tell you of the recommended times, in June.

I shall also book the Correos luggage transfers – anticipating € 20.00 .

I now have the latest Johnnie Walker guide to the Ingles, plus a couple of Apps. There have been a couple of diversions made since I last walked it.

STATISTICS – PELEGRINOS NUMBERS THIS YEAR

Below is a link to an inspiring book – a special Christmas present for ladies of a certain vintage, or elderly gentlemen!?

“ Old Lady On the Trail”; Triple Crown at 76 “.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JGDMJF8/ref=as_li_ss_tl?fbclid=IwAR1dczfAhrz3v6fdl2TM5eebY5XqnSpztAEE46KtJZwEnlLCcpXB1aFuXoM&linkCode=sl1&tag=spanishforcam-20&linkId=209664f636ed5dc005454b0f659279c5

As always,please get in touch if you have any queries and I hope to see you all on lots of “ saunters” in 2019.

Regards and best,

John

January 2019 Rambleros Update

Un feliz año nuevo para todos ustedes.

TRANSFER TO STANSTED AIRPORT MONDAY, 9 th SEPTEMBER

Because some of the group are remaining for a longer stay in Santiago, it is not viable to book a return transfer.

So I am proposing to book us all for the journey to Stansted.

A sixteen seater, leaving Sutton at 6 am approximately £20.00 a head.

Please bear in mind that there is limited space,so please pack sparingly.

Nearer the time, I’ll get details of return journey by train from Stansted and inform you accordingly.

I shall order Pilgrim Passports from Santiago later in the year.

I shall also organise the luggage transfers with the Correos in due course.

TRANSFER SANTIAGO TO FERROL

Just to confirm that this transfer by coach, is booked.

Cost € 20.00 per person

TOTAL NUMBER OF PELEGRINOS ARRIVING IN SANTIAGO 2018

You might be interested in the number of recorded Pilgrim arrivals in Santiago de Compostela for 2018.

Data and links, below.

The pilgrim office website now gives the final pilgrim numbers for 2018. A detailed breakdown of the figures can be found by selecting 2018 and “TODOS” in the drop-down menu. This is the summary paragraph as given through Google Translate:

“During 2018, 327,342 pilgrims were received at the Pilgrimage Office; the previous Holy Year in 2010 were 272,417. Of these pilgrims, 164,817 (50.35%) are women and 162,525 (49.65%) men. On foot, 306,028 (93.49%) arrived, 20,787 (6,35%) on bicycle, 318 (0,10%) on horseback, 130 (0,04%) and 79 (0,02%) at Wheelchair.”

Estadísticas antiguas

By nationality, 44% of the total number of pilgrims were from Spain. Of the 183,237 foreign pilgrims, 15% were from Italy, 14% from Germany, 10% from the United States, 8% from Portugal, 5% from France, 4% from the UK and 4% from Ireland.

FRIDAY 13TH JUNE

I reserved accommodation at Hotel Canaima,Meson do Vento last September. Or so I thought!

Then, last week I received an E mail from Ramon, the owner wishing to clarify the rooms booked and to make a contract for a deposit of 25%.

Nothing unusual about that as this is the only accommodation I have had to book directly- the rest have been booked quite straightforwardly with Booking.Com where we pay in full on arrival.

I vowed after last June, to steer clear of menus – a mine field ! However,

Ramon wanted full details, hence my e-mail to you earlier this week.

Thanks to everyone that replied.

Things get lost in translation with Gallego speakers, so now 28 E-mails later, we might be nearing the end of our correspondence.

But I think Ramon is only trying to get everything right for us – it’s an unpretentious place, in an area light on accommodation,but much used by pilgrims. Ramon will pick us up from Bar Avelino on the Camino.

Superstitious? Me?

PS I don’t need any payment for the above deposit.

We can settle the bill when we are there.

And just a thought…..

The arrows and the way

When you feel lost,

Find Your Arrow,

She awaits you always,

And when you find it,

Sigh, smile, go,

You’re already on the path,

A little arrow,

A Great Arrow,

Simple and cheerful,

Alone, now with you,

A true friend,

Left it for you,

Follow, enjoy, live,

Paint your path of light,

Remembering, your good way.

I shall leave you with a great Camino song.

Thea Gilmore singing The Lower Road.

https://youtu.be/ZaP2_fhBPF4

Regards and best,

John

RAMBLEROS UPDATE FEBRUARY 2019

Hola,

Hope everyone has been out sauntering in what has been unusually benign weather this year…so far.

I know that two of our group have recently bought new boots, with the Camino in mind and if you are considering the same, give yourself lots of time to break them in.

PAYMENTS

Occasionally I get asked by Rambleros “ Do I owe you any money?”

Simple answer “ No,not yet!”

But thanks for enquiring.

To date,I have put a deposit down on the transfer to Stansted and one hotel.

I think it will be more straightforward for everyone to wait until I have made some full payments.

These will include payment for the above transfer,the transfer to Ferrol from S de C, the Luggage transfer with the Correos and the Pilgrim passport.

HOTELS

These are all reserved and payment will be made at the accommodation.

I had to put a deposit on one reservation -we will sort that out at the hotel.

The list of our accommodations was sent in the November Update.

The significance of the shell

There are many myths and legends trying to explain the scallop shell of Saint James. This Apostol is represented in Christian art always wearing the scallop shell. Centuries ago, medieval pilgrims wore a shell attached to their clothes during their pilgrimage. This was used as bowl to gather water or food along the way. The shells come from the Costa da Morte, in the shores of Galicia, which is considered the “end of the world”: Muxia and Finisterre.Nowadays the shell together with a yellow arrow is used all along the Caminos the Santiago as sign pointing towards the direction you need to follow. The shell is not only a symbol but also a memento of the journey you take along the Camino.

If you would like a shell, pop along to the fish market at the Bull Ring and enquire at one of the fish stalls.

If you want one with a motif, contact me and I can send you a reliable provider in Spain.

RENOVATION OF THE CATHEDRAL IN SANTIAGO

Please note that the Cathedral is closed for renovation for a year until next January. There will be no Pilgrim Masses there and no botafumeiro.

Pilgrim masses will be held in the nearby church of San Francisco.

Visitors can still visit the Tomb of the Apóstol and the Pórtico de la Gloria in the Cathedral.

http://catedraldesantiago.es/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Cartel_cambios_misas_enero2019.pdf

Interesting tip for protecting your feet on the Camino.

“A chiropodist helping pilgrims feet in a small albergue near Pamplona was putting slim panty pads in our boots (with wings to go around the insoles). Surprisingly felt quite comfortable but more surprising was after a long days walk the following day my feet and socks were bone dry.

A few days latter I was in a small shop buying some wine and bread and saw a few men in front of me in the queue buying only panty pads. I knew where thay had stayed but the shop girl had a strange and worrying look on her face. 🙂”

https://www.facebook.com/266719113419641/posts/2103737716384429/ New kind of rainwear!

ORUJO A DISTINCTLY SPANISH LUBRICATION

On the June Camino,I recall Rambleros enjoying three different Orujos,one evening!

This little quotation has a funny ending.

“Californian friend and I walked the Primitivo on an orujo-tasting tour (with the few spare hours left after revering the relics of saints in churches along the way). We ended up buying some in a sandwich shop where it was dispensed from a large plastic pepsi-cola bottle. I keep it in the freezer. I find that, after a sip or two, I do not need to floss for several days.”

Just a couple of things to finish.

1. I still need mobile phone numbers from some members.

2. Could you please acknowledge receipt of this newsletter with a simple reply and if you have any suggestions for items to include in future updates, or an enquiry of any kind, please let me know.

I will finish with a story about the Cathedral which I think is fascinating.

See you on a Saunter,shortly,I hope.

Saludes cordiales,

John

Santiago bell ringer from Johnnie Walker.

THE SUNDAY STORY – The bell ringer and his family who lived on the roof of the Cathedral.

Shortly after I moved to Santiago one of the staff of the Cathedral told me that there had once been a bell ringer who lived on the roof of the building. Whether he said it or not I assumed that the bell ringer had lived in one of the towers. That’s not that unusual because even nowadays some Cathedrals and major churches provide accommodation for both priests and staff. For example, many Cathedrals have “live in” caretakers and some Cathedral organists live in housing in the Cathedral precincts.

I thought no more about this until the other day I got a message from Løis Beirøå who lives two doors down. He is the son of an old Santiago family. His father, now wheelchair bound, was a famous champion gaitero, a bagpipe player. The message read, “ John, I’m attaching a curious photograph of the old house of the Cathedral’s bell ringer which was on the roof of the Cathedral. My family knew the last family who lived there. It is a pity it was demolished and not conserved.”

I was astonished at the sight of a little dwelling on the roof of the great medieval Cathedral and I did some research. Some facts emerged from an article published in the newspaper La Voz de Galicia in 2009 by Nacho Miras.

I’ve translated and expanded his article.

This is the story of Ricardo Fandiño, the last bell ringer, who lived in a house 40 meters up on the roof with his wife and children.

Ricardo wrote everything down. Therefore the 20 years he lived on the roof from 1942 to 1962 are well documented.

In Ricardo’s diaries there are drawings, sketches, handwritten notes and even a date stamp on the front of an envelope from the Bank of Bilbao. Although Fandiño died in 1988, thanks to these documents, and the testimony of his children, we can get an insight into what life was like for the last people who literally lived on the roof of the Cathedral.

Ricardo Fandiño was a young tailor from Sobrado dos Monxes. In 1940 when he was 28 years old he is recorded in the residency register of the City of Santiago. Then he got the job as bell ringer in the Cathedral.

On January 16 1942 he recorded in his diary: “I started as bell ringer being paid 180 pesetas a month. This was arranged between the Dean Don Antonio Villasante, my Godfather Don Salustiano Portela Pazos, and the treasurer Don Claudio Rodríguez. At that time all employees had the same salary, 180 pesetas a month.”

Increasingly mechanical means were being used to ring bells in the great churches of Europe. Perhaps the reason Ricardo kept notes is that he realised that he was the last of a trade which would soon become extinct.

As for living in the house on the roof. “The dampness was the worst”, says Jesús Fandiño, Ricardo’s son who, until he was well into his twenties, shared the small shack on the roof with his parents and his brothers Ricardo and Feli.

The small dwelling was located on the roof of the cathedral, next to the tower on the right as you face the facade from the Obradoiro. “The world was different up there, with views over the city that made you a kind of guardian of a watchtower of Christianity.”

The Fandiños lived their lives above the heads of the other Compostelanos; they were the citizens who were closest to heaven. That was very special. “The house would have been three or four hundred years old,” says Jesus, “with a large kitchen, a dining room and two rooms. We stayed there until they began to remodel the roofs and removed all the tiles and we moved to Entrerríos”.

The family was not alone living on the roof. There were also chickens and a rooster that crowed punctually every morning when the sun began to appear behind San Paio de Antealtares. The henhouse was installed in a side nave, flanked by walls which rise many meters above the cloister. The quiquiriquí (cock-a-doodle-doo) of Fandiño’s cock was famous in Compostela just like its owner. And there were no eggs more holy than those from the aerial chickens of the bell ringer.

Diary entry from 1943. Holy Year. “The manufacturer Villasante gave me five pesetas for each peal of the bell as the official pilgrimages entered the Cathedral, “The tailor picked up in his notes.””

“It is said that we kept and killed a pig up there” says Jesús Fandiño Vidal, “but that is an urban legend. Perhaps it was the previous bell ringer. But it is a good story. What we did have were many pigeons to shoot and eat”.

Ricardo was employed first, as a bell ringer when his predecessor, José María González, retired. But the salary of 180 pesetas was hardly enough to feed his family and so he began to take orders as a tailor. At first he worked in a room in the bell tower, next to the house, and from 1961 in a room on a floor below. “With the same skill and skill that handles the bells, turning them with amazing agility, cut a gentleman’s dress of impeccable line”, said a report published by the Diario de Barcelona in 1968.

When the official tailor of the Cathedral, Emilio Quinteiro , died, Fandiño then started to be the tailor to the clergy. The downside, he wrote, is that the priests used to pay him for the work with words and not money, “God will reward you, Fandiño “, words which were useless to buy potatoes in the shops of Santiago. That’s why he always said that he preferred to tailor clothes for men and not for God.

Ricardo Fandiño has been compared to Quasimodo the character in Víctor Hugo’s novel the Hunchback of Notre Dame. However the difference between the two is that Ricardo Fandiño, bell ringer and tailor, actually existed.

S C RAMBLEROS – Easter Update

I’m sorry to inform the group that Gillian has withdrawn from the Camino – she will be missed.

Pat Williams,who has been on the reserve list, is able to take up that place.

Those that know her from our Portuguese Camino, will be pleased to know that Penny has been able to join the group – she made her own arrangements and will be staying in mostly the same accommodation.

I have ordered our Pilgrim passports from Spain and they will cost you €3.00 -We will distribute them on our departure day – correct change please!

Luggage Transfer – Paq Mochilas with Correos – Ferrol to S de C

Expect to pay € 20-25 – not booked it yet.

_____________________________________________________________________

Link below to a photo of a traditional Camino marker stone in place outside the European Parliament – apparently there is one in Glasgow,too.

https://www.cope.es/emisoras/galicia/a-coruna-provincia/santiago/noticias/camino-santiago-corazon-europa-con-hito-junto-trozo-del-muro-berlin-20190403_386692

A short and to the point article – pros/cons of walking poles.

https://sectionhiker.com/trekking-poles-pros-and-cons/

The History of the Pilgrimage

Jerusalem fell to the armies of Islam in 636 A.D., and less than a century later, in 711, Spain was also invaded and conquered. The Moors rapidly reached northern Spain, and sent raiding parties into France. In northwest Spain, however, a small Christian kingdom, including Asturias and present-day Galicia, emerged in the 8th century, and it was in the reign of Alfonso II (r 792-842) that the Apostle’s tomb was discovered near Finisterre.

Relics of the saints were believed to possess great power, and those of the Apostles were especially venerated: Peter and Paul were known to be buried in Rome, and John at Ephesus, although the Virgin was early believed to have been carried bodily into heaven. In ca 800, James was the most senior member of the intercessionary hierarchy whose relics remained undiscovered. He was already believed to have been the evangelist of Spain. Though a few pilgrims to Santiago are recorded in the 10th century, and many more in the 11th, it was in the early 12th century – and particularly under the energetic promotion of Archbishop Diego Gelmírez (1100-1140) – that Santiago came to rank with Rome and Jerusalem as one of the great destinations of medieval pilgrimage. The first cathedral was built over the site of the tomb, and Benedictine houses were established, for instance by monks from Cluny in Burgundy and from Aurillac in Cantal, along the developing pilgrimage route.

Simultaneously with the growth of crusading fervour – Jerusalem fell to the armies of the first crusade in 1099 – the idea of a Reconquest of Spain by Christians took root. It is loudly proclaimed in the so-called Codex Calixtinus, allegedly written by Pope Calixtus II (1119-24) but in fact a compilation by various authors of the middle decades of the 12th century and closely associated with Santiago. It includes the Pilgrim’s Guide, now thought by most scholars to be a school text produced, probably in the 1130s, by a French master, possibly a Poitevin named Aimery, with close links to the Cathedral of Santiago. The two earliest MSS, both 12th century, seem to have been produced in Santiago.

How fast does the Grim Reaper walk? Receiver operating characteristics curve analysis in healthy men aged 70 and over

The difference between water and beer – YouTube,below.

https://youtu.be/q-dkzn45Zo8

IT’S FAR FROM BEING THE ULTIMATE GUIDE – OF SOME INTEREST

https://www.spanishforcamino.com/2018/12/21/your-words/

https://www.irishcatholic.com/bringing-the-camino-home/

A Catholic perspective,but insightful and born out of experience.

https://youtu.be/DS2HhncPCeA Johnnie Walker video

Wishing everyone a joyful Easter.

Please get in touch if you have any queries, or if you require information on any aspect of our Camino.

Regards and best,

John

https://www.facebook.com/439152476156092/posts/2579171832154135?sfns=mo

Sutton Coldfield Rambleros’ Verano Update

Greetings,

Have just returned from sauntering along the Camino Primitivo.

It was a great if at times challenging experience.

Met some great people on the Way, from all over the world.

You can read all about it on “ Ensuitepilgrimblog.wordpress.com”.

We are off to Portugal on 6th July and not back till 31st, so will not be rambling before August.

However, will still be contactable by e-mail, so don’t hesitate to get in touch, if needed.

Check in with Ryanair available from 11 July.

PAYMENT DETAILS PER PERSON

Transfer to Stansted Airport – £ 19.00

Transfer to Ferrol, Hotel Almendra from Santiago de Compostela Airport. – £ 17.00

Correos Luggage transfer. – £ 18.00 ** ( max weight 20 kilos )

Pilgrim Passport. – £ 2.00 ** ( PDF Label to follow )

TOTAL. £ 56.00

PAYMJourne from Hotel Avenida, S de C to airport – shared tax

RETURN FROM STANSTED

There are frequent trains to Bham New St From Stansted.

Advance tickets are now available from The trainline.

Our flight from S de C arrives at 11.45 am.

You have to allow time to clear Border Contol ( passports ) and collect luggage from the carousel.

Would suggest taking a train after 1 pm, but please make your own arrangements.

Times are as follows:

13.00

13.15

13.27

13.45

Most journeys require a change at Tottenham Hale ( About five stops by underground to Euston )

I have used this method and it’s quite straightforward

There are direct trains to New St, though fewer in number and more expensive.

Obviously prices will be cheaper the earlier you book.

Spotted just outside Ferrol,recently.

“Footprints Vanish Quickly,

Memories stay for the

Rest of your Life”

https://www.lasmorenasdeespana.com/blog/vegan-vegetarian-in-spain

Don’t worry, we don’t have any hills like this on the Ingles!

You cannot be serious…

https://www.fundacionjacobea.org/en/ways-of-santiago/the-english-way-a-little-history/

Paddling through

Cold green waters,

My arms get tired.

Walking a Camino path,

It’s the feet.

But the Way is the same,

Following the Songlines

Of the earth.

To be a pilgrim,

Anywhere

What a blessing.

https://www.fundacionjacobea.org/en/ways-of-santiago/the-english-way-ferrol/

Hope you all have some good walks in the months ahead.

Regards and best,

John

Greetings – Autumn Update

Hope everyone is fit,packed,toenails done and ready to go!

There is a lot of important information, below,please take your time.

Transfer to Stansted Airport

I am sorry to have to ask you for an additional £5.00 for the above transfer. This can be paid at the car park on the 9th.

The reason being I became uneasy about the company I originally booked – Castle Coaches – despite recommendation.

They failed to respond to my E mail request concerning acknowledgement of our time and pick up point,for example,and after more phone calls and E mails,received a response which still did not make sense. Hence I have cancelled the booking.

Our new arrangements are with Attain Travel. A little more expensive but local and reliable.

Pick up at South Parade car park 06.00,Monday,9 th September, as originally planned.

There is an attachment at the end of this Update.

The Spreadsheet of Hotel / flight details – Thanks to Hannah

Average room costs

I have been asked to include this. However,it is not as straightforward as it might seem because of the variations between quadruples,sharing,singles etc.

So, a rough guide would be € 27.00 sometimes including breakfast.

Train from Stansted to Birmingham.

Don’t forget your tickets .

Confirmation of receipt of this Update

Please e – mail me to confirm you have received this ASAP,as some Rambleros did not get the Verano update – Mea Culpa.

“My feet is my only carriage

So I’ve got to push on through”

Bob Marley

https://lifewaterwayeng.wordpress.com/. New drinking fountains on Camino Ingles.

ATMS Euronet

Apparently, it is best to avoid using any ATM with this company “Euronet”.

Two reasons, one they usually offer very high amounts to exchange and also the exchange rates can be upto 15% higher than the norm,plus a fee simply for using it.

There are plenty of other ATMs available.

Another general piece of advice is when making payments in shops,restaurants, wherever, you may be asked do you want to pay in your own currency or local currency?

The advice is “ local”.

This applies to all countries ,not just Spain.

Fascinating Figures – Numerical Ones !

138,790 pilgrims arrived into Santiago and received Compostelas from January to June 2019 compared to 123,279 for the same period in 2018, representing a growth of 12.6%.

In June, 49,066 pilgrims arrived into Santiago and collected Compostelas. This represents a 7.4% increase compared to June 2018.

An Analysis of the Pilgrims – June 2019

Of the pilgrims who walked in June, there were 22,942 (50.2%) women compared to 22,742 (49.78%) men. 41,857 (91.62%) walked the Camino, 3,789 (8.29%) cycled, 24 (0.05%) did it on horseback and 14 (0.03%) in a wheelchair.

In terms of nationality; 38% were Spanish and 62% were foreigners. Excluding Spain, the top 8 Countries with the highest number of pilgrims were:

1) U.S.A – 4,089 (14.47%)

2) Italy – 3,917 (13.86%)

3) Germany – 3,673 (12.99%)

4) Portugal – 1,807 (6.39%)

5) France – 1,524 (5.39%)

6) Ireland – 1,157 (4.09%)

7) UK – 1,149 (4.07%)

8) Brazil – 939 (3.32%)

Most Walked Camino Routes – June 2019

1) French Way – 27,346 (60%) The Frances

2) Portuguese Way – 8,523 (18.66%) Central Route

3) Northern Way – 2,631 (5.76%)Camino Del Norte

4) Primitive Way – 1,958 (4.3%) Camino Primitivo

5) Coastal Portuguese Way – 1,789 (3.9%) The one we did last June

6) English Way – 1,737 (3.8%) Camino Ingles

7) Silver Way – 1,363 (2.98%) The Via de la Plata

Source: Pilgrim Office, Santiago de Compostela

Currently on display in the Victoria and Albert Museum,London.

A replica of the Porta de Gloria and a statuette – probably a private commission.

Final Meal Together in Santiago de Compostela.

I have made a reservation for us all at Restaurante Porta Faxeira,which is reputedly Group/pilgrim friendly,Sunday 8 th September.

Menu is €26.oo

First and second courses,dessert,wine & coffee.

I have checked out the Vegetarian menu – it looks good – immediately below.

Entrante: Pimientos de Padrón y Surtido de Quesos – Padron peppers and assortment of cheeses

Primer Plato: Calabacín Gratinado al Horno – First course baked Zucchini ( courgette)

Segundo Plato: Arroz Caldoso con verduras – Second course Ruce with vegetables

Postre y Bebidas – Dessert and drinks

I shall need to know your choices – an exercise for the journey down to Stansted – The translations are mine!

APERITIVOS – Choose three from

aditos de empanada – small pies

casera Croquetas – homemade croquettes

caseras Crujiente de pollo con salsa ali-oli – homemade crispy chicken with ali- oil sauce

Pimientos de Padrón (en temporada) – In season , self explanatory

Queso gallego de tetilla – Galician Tetilla cheese

Champiñones al ajillo – Garlic mushrooms

PRIMO – First Course

Pimientos del piquillo rellenos de bacalao – Piquillo peppers stuffed with Cod

Fabes con pulpo Filloa rellena de marisco – Fabes / Octopus stuffed with seafood.

SECUNDO – Second Course

Merluza del pincho a la crema con patatitas al vapor – Skewers of Hake with cream and steamed potatoes

Costilla de cerdo gallego alimentado con castañas – Chestnut fed Galician pork rib

POSTRES – Desserts

Surtido de postres caseros – Assortment of homemade desserts

Cafés y licores de la casa – Coffees and Liqueurs of the house.

Vino Blanco D.O Ribeiro Vino Tinto Mencía D.O Valdeorras

Interesting Article

http://www.traveller.com.au/how-and-why-you-should-walk-the-camino-h1h389

I hope everyone is looking forward to the Camino.

Here are the approximate daily distances.

Walk Day 10/09 Ferrol to Naron – 10 Km

2 Naron to Cabanos – 20 Km

3 Cabanos to Mino – 10 Km

4 Mino to Meson do Vento 31 Km This section can be

shortened by 10 Km, using taxis.

5 Meson do Vento – Sigueiro 24 Km

6 Sigueiro to Santiago de C. 16 Km

Important Point – If at any time on the Camino you need a break,please let me know,you’ll probably find ten other Pelegrinos want one,t

Your Latest Update – 31/08/19

Includes:-

1. Recent article on “ not so able” pilgrims, from “ Slow Strollers on the Camino Pilgrim Forum.

2. Downloadable link on What To See/Do in Santiago – Correos.

3. Facebook link to a funny,comic act – Spanish Perceptions

4.Muy Imporante – Downloadable link for your Correos luggage label with example and instructions.

5. Downloadable PDF map of Ferrol

1. In 2013…led a group of not-so-able pilgrims for 17 days from Sarria to Santiago. We averaged 5km per day and spent at least 2 or 3 nights in the same place. One woman was planning on walking the Camino in 2012 but had to cancel when she was diagnosed with a large tumour on the brain. She had it removed, underwent radiation treatment and was allowed to join our group a year later, still a bit wobbly at times! One man was doing his10th Camino at age 89 after having a triple bypass. A mother and daughter (72 and 50) had a familial foot problem which made them feel as though they were walkingb on glass. A 74 year-old Irish lady had post-polio problems and needed to use a cross-country walker. When we arrived in Santiago, John Walker arranged for their Compostelas to be given downstairs from the pilgrim office and for us to have special seats in the cordoned off area of the Cathedral in front of the altar. We were all quite choked up when the priest announced the arrival of the ‘Caracoles’ group that day! With a bit of planning anyone can walk a Camino.

2.

https://www.elcaminoconcorreos.com/admin/files/contents/files/Enjoy%20Santiago%20in%201%2C2%20or%203%20days.pdf

Download for the complete guide.

3.

https://www.facebook.com/567275553397220/posts/1653728924751872?sfns=mo

4. Photo of enlarged label with hotels and dates. It is important to include the booking reference on the top of the envelope. No money required! Ref.7400158497

https://www.elcaminoconcorreos.com/admin/files/contents/files/Paq-Mochila-Envelope-2018-2019.pdf

You will need to download two labels as shown in photos.

You can expand the download and then right click outside the image to print off the label.

I used a CD envelope to protect the label after inserting the two labels.

What fun!

5. Downloadable town plan of Ferrol https://www.turismo.gal/docs/mdaw/mdk4/~edisp/turga098261.pdf?langId=en_US. See you all on Monday 09/09 for a 6 am departure – regards & best, john.

The final two days – Cabeza Do Lobo, Ordes, Sigüeiro and finally to Santiago de Compostela

17 Sep

We were now getting acclimatised to clear, brisk starts at 08.30 developing into warm sunshine by 10.00

Walking by a farm yard we were amused by the sight of a rabbit terrifying an Alsatian.

Then we passed a series of fine stone sculptures.

From the sublime to the ridiculous….

At least we were not the only dinosaurs on the Camino!

Everyone remained in good spirits as we made our way through Oak and Eucalyptus plantations.

Coffee stop at the Cruceiro and a chance to buy a picnic lunch.

Eventually we reached our accommodation at Sigueiro, via parkland.

Albergue Camino Real is a privately run Albergue of twenty beds, some of which were in dorms.

Six of the ladies kept each other company overnight, surprisingly none of them wanted to repeat the experience!

The owner was a great guy and provided us with a good breakfast before setting out for Santiago de Compostela – The last leg of 16 km.

There was real Autumnal feel to the morning with mist lying over the countryside.

As on all Caminos there are sections parallel to an Autovia – modern roads were often developed along side centuries old Camino paths.

Snakes Alive? Well, we weren’t too sure…

The temperatures are mild enough in Galicia for Kiwi fruit to thrive.

Hannah found her stride soon enough as we walked along deserted country lanes.

Posada Del Camino,in Castro ,a great barn of a place was welcoming to Pelegrinos.

Before long we were approaching the outskirts of Santiago, passing by the inevitable industrial estate and the last Horreos on the stage.

We were startled by a noisy fireworks display, despite it being midday.

The reason was a procession, carrying a statue of the Madonna, accompanied by the local band.

As we walked along the broad boulevards of the city were hailed by a gentleman outside an old chapel – he was offering to stamp,our Pilgrim Passports ( Credencials), a prayer card and even town plans if needed.

He pointed out where mass could be attended that evening, which coincidentally and conveniently was near to Hotel Avenida, our final stopover at the oddly named St Fiz. Fascinating link about this church.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=3&ved=2ahUKEwiNiI2tstfkAhWEsHEKHbm5BM0Q_UUwAnoECAEQCA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fthewayservices.es%2Fen%2Fchurches-of-santiago-de-compostela-san-fiz-de-solovio-the-church-where-it-all-began%2F&usg=AOvVaw1RTE92J8ap-zMCkQwMPgLV

The Camino took us past many impressive ecclesiastical buildings and sculptures .

Then the culmination for hundreds of thousands of Pelegrinos – the Praza de Obradoiro – Cathedral Square.

And the magnificent cathedral itself.

A group photo was a must.

All the group’s pilgrim passports were collected on arrival at the hotel.

Then taking a moment to grab a quick Sandwicha Mixta Con Huevo,it was on to the Pilgrims’ Office to collect the Compostelas.

Because we were a group I was able to e mail all the required information in advance to the office, thus avoiding a lengthy queue – sometimes it can be hours waiting as the numbers of arrivals each day is so great.

After a few “ Sharpeners” and tapas in my favourite square, everyone was looking forward to a meal.

Dinner had been booked in advance,too, and we had a memorable final Camino meal,together at Restaurante Porto Faxeira – al fresco.

Five of the group were staying on in Santiago whilst ten of us took a taxi at 8 am to the airport for the 10.35 flight back to Stansted and then by train to Birmingham; it was a smooth journey.

The group were great to be with – good humoured even when tired,hot and weary – they looked after each other, too. Enquiring about the inevitable blisters, tummy upset and aching joints – sharing first aid items and Ibruprofen!

Most importantly, they all achieved their goal, some surpassing their expectations. I hope when they look back they will still say it was a

BUEN CAMINO.

Sauntering along the coast at Cabanos into the hills with Sutton Rambleros.

16 Sep

It has been a busy few days on the Camino, to the extent that I got rather behind with the Blog! On arrival, time seems to be taken up with reconnoitering the restaurant for the evening meal, checking on the way out and chatting to Pelegrinos, often over a beer.

Admiring the adventurous take a dip!

Enjoying the sunset.

So, Onwards from Cabanos-Pontedeume, crossing the Eume on its famous bridge.

Then through the medieval part of the latter upwards – the first “ decent” hill. The sun was up and on reaching the summit, there were fine views and a “bag rest” to strip off layers and take on some water.

Fruits of the season, grapevines and a startling brightly coloured fungus.

An interesting addition to a STOP notice.

A welcome stop for coffee, not in the guidebooks, but housed in a furniture and antiques showroom.

Exclusively for Pelegrinos.

We walked on and came to an ancient bridge which I recalled from my Camino along here, four years ago – ideal setting for a group photo.

We reached Mino and Hotel Terraza. Some energetic souls sought out the beach, others shopped locally for an alfresco dinner on the hotel’s terrace.

The next day we were bound for Meson do Vento, via Betanzos. The longest etape of 31.5 Km, including a few hills,in hot sunshine.

A horse munched on,unconcerned as we walked by. Barbara marched on.

We were glad of the frequent stretches of shade. We bade farewell to the Ria as we sauntered inland.

There was a stop at Meson Museo, with its murals and space – unfortunately the service there was frustratingly slow.

Compensations in the scenery – chapels, Horreos ( Stores On stone plinths – iconic structures in Galicia ).

The arrangement with our hotel in Meson do Vento was that they would collect us from

BarAvelina.

So equipped with phone number, groups arriving at different times were able to avail themselves of this lift. The hotel owner went out of his way to help here. Eventually, everyone arrived.

Thirteen of the group completed the entire 31.5 km – hot, tired maybe a little disoriented – but rightly proud of themselves; may had never walked such a distance in one day before.

As always there was good food and drink to end the day.

And so the soothsayer said –

“Life begins at the end of your comfort zone.” – Neale Donald Walsch

Thanks to Han for some of the photos.

Sutton Coldfield Rambleros on the Camino Ingles,September 2019

12 Sep

This is the starting point of the Camino Ingles in Ferrol,Galicia. A party of 15 Rambleros enjoyed a seamless journey to Ferrol, via Attain Travel minibus and trailer to Stansted, Ryan air to Santiago de Compostela, then transfer by coach direct to our hotel.

We enjoyed a great meal at Candido and everyone was in great spirits.

The next morning, Tuesday, we spent exploring Ferrol which has the undeserved reputation as the ” Black Sheep” of Galician cities – supposedly lacking in attractiveness and interest. Having spent time here four years ago I was pleasantly surprised by the upsurge in civic pride in the city evidenced by its cleanliness and rejuvenation. Galerias, Art Nouveau were characteristic of many buildings.And a Fine Cathedral

The shipyards, Arsenal and harbour front all added to the atmosphere.

At midday we were given excellent guided by a very helpful tourist office man and we set off for our first stop, Naron and Hotel Kensington. Early showers had dispersed and we walked along the harbour and shipyard in increasingly sunny weather.

The food is good in Galicia and The Bocadillos are a great Pelegrinos favourite.Traditionally one finds churches and monasteries along the ” Way”.

We enjoyed a Pilgrim menu for dinner at Hotel Kensington.Wednesday found us en route for Cabanas on the Ria, immediately before Pontedeume and the river Eume.

As always the coffee stop was most welcome and in Neda we found a pilgrim friendly bar.

The Rambleros were delighted with Hotel Iberia and the adjacent beach.oThat evening we ate at a beach side restaurant where a long table was provided with a backdrop of a slow, wonderful sunset. The Paella, Padron Peppers and seafood were a treat.

We had enjoyed a great walk and a memorable evening.

“Tha’s lush, that is” as they say in Cardiff,understandably. Three days in and around the Welsh Capital and its Bay.

16 Aug

Cardiff city campsite is handily situated near to Sophia Gardens, Glamorgan’s County Cricket ground – super stadium – and a ten minute walk along the Taff into the city centre.

I had visited Cardiff many years ago to watch England Wales and had only very hazy memories… Three years ago it was the destination for a Christmas vintage steam train trip from Birmingham and having spent three hours on a walkabout, vowed to return in the summertime.

The first destination was the Bay, by water bus which took us past the Principality stadium,down the Taff,past Brains’ brewery and views of all the recent development.

The Bay was busy with holidaymakers enjoying the ” beach”- a kind of funfair, the bars and restaurants.

Cardiff is a radical city and I had already been reminded of its greatest statesman,Aneurin Bevan,when I came upon a Statue dedicated to world peace.Leaving the harbour behind, a memorial to Captain Scott was well positioned, remembering that his final,fateful expedition left from these shores.

Just before the Cardiff Barrage a water activity enterprise was well populated with bathers,young and old.

Then it was about turn and an extended walk back to the campsite,along Lloyd George Avenue with its blocks of Mews apartments.

By the time the campsite was reached,it said 9 miles on the Fitbit – chill out and bbq brought an end to a great day.

The weather for Wednesday fans correctly forecast as ” rainy” – so after booking tickets online, we headed for Cardiff Castle. From Roman times , centuries of neglect, restoration under the Normans, more neglect then fanciful additions and alterations in more recent times, a wartime bomb shelter and now a national monument – a fascinating complex. It also houses the ” Firing Line” exhibition mainly exemplifying the roles played by Welsh regiments over three centuries.

It encompasses all the major wars, from Napoleonic times upto Afghanistan. It is brilliantly done if you don’t mind the narratives which though factually accurate- dates,places,times- are a bit ” gung ho” with no thought or question given as to the justification for some of the ” action”.

What was striking were the tunnels – Wartime Shelters. Few people realise that within the walls of the Castle are tunnels – tunnels which came into their own as air-raid shelters during the Second World War. It was estimated that more than 1800 people took shelter there. Left very much as it was, with dozens of warning posters and Blitz sound effects,it is an authentic experience.

The Bute family made many alterations ,additions to the castle as well as important restorations and a tour of their house and adjoining tower were greatly appreciated.Many of their ideas were formed both on Grand Tours and a fascination with medieval history – Victorian,Gothic revival !

A wonderful place and setting .

That night was spent in the company of a college friend and his wife, who lives in nearby Port Talbot – they recommended a great Italian Restaurant – Giovanni’s – Ottimo Pasto !The next day dawned fine and although 18 miles had been walked over the last two days,it was decided that a walk across the Barrage to Penarth and some of the Coastal Path, was the order of the day. The Barrage was a controversial development built to protect the harbour and city from flooding. Freshwater from the river on one side and the Channel on the other. It was quite thrilling to be able to literally walk across it and get a view of the workings in action.And so it was on to Penarth, a sizeable place composed mainly of Victorian Edwardian residences, with a fine seafront and pier – gained after a stiff uphill climb.

The Esplanade and Pier were in excellent condition and the latter was prime location for lunch – A Panini on Penarth Pier.

The path climbs upwards out of the town,passing parkland and some bijou development. Returning gave a good view of the cliffs.

Twelve miles achieved !

Three days was not enough to enjoy everything in and around Cardiff,but my abiding memories were both its conscience.And the friendliness we encountered, whether it was the campsite warden, the museum guides, the pub staff or the bus driver…and the lovely gentleman who, noticing us looking at our town plan, asked if he could be of any assistance…and he was.

Byddwn yn ol.

The Last Couple of Days – upwards via The Loire & Pas de Calais – longish drives in good conditions.

31 Jul

It’s difficult to shrug off that end of holiday feeling when you are driving home.

You resign yourselves to the long drives in the certainty of arriving at a good campsite for the night and, hopefully, a swim, drinks and a bbq in the evening sunshine.

Also,having driven all over Europe for fifty years now, you are assured of quality driving conditions, sometimes on Toll roads, but at least you are assured that the tolls are put back into the motorways’ maintenance and development. A lot of the driving on these last two days were toll free on the RN 10 and the RN154 – good dual carriageways, no hold ups, no queues.

That’s why driving in France,Spain and Portugal in particular is such a pleasurable experience, unlike the stressful road conditions in the UK.

The penultimate day was spent in the Touraine,not far from Chinon, at chateau Allendres. This site in the grounds of a beautiful Chateau, has all the amenities in a rustic setting.On the second day we took a recommended ” randonee ” via the village of Trogues alongside the River Vienne. Over 11 KM through fields and tiny hamlets, pausing for a coffee in another campsite Les Allais.A last lengthy drive through Tours, crossing the Loire and eventually Camping St Louis,19 Miles inland from the car ferry at Calais. I booked the ferry the day beforehand and enjoyed a great Flemish meal at the campsite restaurant – even had a game of table tennis Pre- drinks! I am writing this on the P & O Ferry, quite a choppy crossing which we nearly didn’t make due to the incompetence of the UK Border Force at Calais. Only four lanes open out of twelve in the peak season.It took 90 minutes in total and only got on board our 09.50 crossing because it was late due to the weather .

Only 200 miles up the M20,M25 and M40 to look forward to!

Adieu, Adios Europe – it has been another great holiday.

Tordedillas,Valladolid, Spain and Eymet in South Western France,en route home.

29 Jul

Tordesillas has been a stopping place over a good few years. Stays ranging from a week to a day – this time two days. Every time, the campsite seems to improve,though it’s best features, like the garden by the bar, remain the same. Not a big site and situated near the banks of the River Duero – Douro when it flows into Portugal – it has a good swimming pool, shop,restaurant and bar – that’s all you need for a good campsite,plus the weather of course.

The town is compact and the central part is of most interest,with its colonnades and bars.

It has a long history and a tragic tale or two.

The Treaty of Tordesillas signed at Tordesillas in Spain on June 7, 1494, and authenticated at Setúbal, Portugal, divided the newly discovered lands outside Europe between the Portuguese Empire and the Spanish  …

It was also the place where Queen Jane – Juana la Loca – who spent 46 years in a windowless cell here in the Monasterio. She had ruled Castile jointly with her husband,Felipe I,From 1504-06 But was devastated by his early death and for three years toured the monasteries of Spain,keeping the coffin permanently by her side,stopping from time to time to inspect the corpse. In 1509, she reached The Convent Santa Clara In Tordesillas, where first her father,Fernando and later her son,Carlos V declared her insane,imprisoning her for half a century and assuming the throne of Castile for themselves.

I’m sure we have experienced the time when we have revisited a place with good memories only to find it has changed – for any number of reasons – and felt disappointment and/or disillusionment. Hopefully that may never be the case with Tordesillas.

From there it was 700 km drive on semi deserted roads and Autovias across Spain and through the Landes region of South Western France, ending up in the South of the Dordogne,in one of the Bastide towns – fortified villages from the Middle Ages.

This particular town was Eymet, a chocolate box of a place, with its typical square,distinctive buildings and narrow streets. The only thing that ruined it was the loud,self assured English voices rasping out from every bar and restaurant – a third of the population are Ex-pats – such a shock after almost being totally without for nearly three weeks. Too pristine and too Anglicanism for my taste – a vintage,English tea room said it all.And so the next day,Sunday it was onwards and upwards towards Touraine in the Loire Valley.

CACERES – CIUDAD MONUMENTAL – Ciudad Patrimonio de la Humanidad,

26 Jul

Cáceres in western Spain’s Extremadura region. Founded by the ancient Romans, it retains widespread evidence of subsequent occupation by many different cultures. Its old town, Ciudad Monumental, has a mix of Gothic and Renaissance architecture, with cobbled medieval streets, fortified houses and palaces. Encircled by 12th-century Moorish walls, it also has around 30 towers, some occupied by nesting storks.

There are also reputedly,1300 coats of arms decorating the palaces and houses both inside and out of the city walls.

The main square, with its distinctive slope,remains my favourite in all of Spain.

For a small fee you can walk along a section of the walls and visit the Museo.

There are gardens and attractive corners,plus a town house I particularly liked.

Four years or so ago,I stopped off here whilst walking the Camino Via de la Plata – there is a church dedicated to St James on the Camino,just off the main square.

Caceres campsite is another totally different attraction – a short bus ride out of the city. It’s the second time we have stayed here – it’s unique in that each pitch has its own shower/toilet block and there is a fabulous pool and bar area directly accessible on site.

Onwards then,up the Autovia Ruta de la Plata, to Tordesillas, for a two day stopover before. Making for France.

Two Days in Evora…And “Them Bones,Them Bones,Them Dry Bones”. “We, the bones that are here await yours.”

23 Jul

I thought I had visited Evora in the Seventies,but I was mistaken- I was either confusing it with Beja or Avila.

This museum-city, whose roots go back to Roman times, reached its golden age in the 15th century, when it became the residence of the Portuguese kings. Its unique quality stems from the whitewashed houses decorated with azulejos and wrought-iron balconies dating from the 16th to the 18th century. Its monuments had a profound influence on Portuguese architecture in Brazil.

There is a lot to see in Evora, as the compact city has the second largest number of national monuments of Portugal, being second only to Lisbon.

The Praça Do Giraldo is the centrepiece of the city, with its fountain,apparently where the still standing aqueduct used to bring water into the city.

Having toured the city and marvelled at its many fascinating churches,squares,courtyards and panoramas, it is not a city you forget. Just a short bus ride from the lovely Orbitur campsite,directly into the main square. Checked in to the Turismo for a helpful city map and decided to go with the trail in the guidebook.

Starting with the” See “- Portuguese term for Cathedral – and a rooftop tour to enjoy a panorama of the city – views across the Alentejo to the far horizon.

Guide books describe the mismatched,twin towers as creating a forbidding setting; wasn’t my impression.

This city has a good many churches,enticing alleyways, public gardens and monuments.

The church of San Francisco houses a chapel mainly constructed from the bones of Franciscan monks, whose remains had been disinterred from their graveyards. They were running out of graveyard space!

It is a fascinating if gruesome place – with spines,fibulas,skulls aligned geometrically – estimated at 5000! Unforgettable, macabre Capela dos Ossos.

The restaurants are renown for their Alentejan cooking – pity it wasn’t dinner time as I don’t like big lunches, so it was a “meal deal” in the park – tasty sandwich and a drink.

Doorways, sculptures and views. Something of interest at every corner.

It’s most famous monument is from Roman times. Long known as ” Diana’s Temple”- it was probably Jupiter’s or the Emperor’s preferred deity.

Just a couple of photos to finish with, the aqueduct and five gypsies in a horse and trap, traversing the car pork at the Continente Hypermarket in Evora, this morning.

Now for another great city – Caceres and if I remember rightly a great campsite and pool.

Alentejo – Five Day Break in Porto Covo – & a Music Festival.

21 Jul

The Alentejo is the beautiful region of Portugal that lies between the Algarve and central Lisbon region. This vast and sparsely populated area – 10% of the population of Portugal – covers over 30% of Portugal and is characterised by its gentle rolling hills, historic fortified towns and intense summer heat,which is tempered by the Atlantic breeze on the coast,only.

The North is quite flat,vast fields of wheat, a legacy from the Roman occupation and there are also great forests of Cork Oak. The coastline,however, is a dramatic succession of cliffs, wild seascapes and isolated beaches.

Porto Covo is the base chosen – and its reputedly best campsite – Costra Do Vizir. And it has proven to be a good choice with excellent facilities and spacious pitches for Motorhomes. The landscaping is thoughtfully done. And, for sunbathers there is the choice between a good sized pool or a 6 minute walk to the beaches.

From Porto Covo it is possible to walk along the cliff tops,via its quaint little fishing port.

A choice of routes,but we followed part of a recently established “ Fishermans’ Trail”/“The Vincentena,” which can walked completely in four days,or so – I shall investigate that as a possibility for next year .

Porto Covo is surrounded by holiday villas, with more being developed, but that does not spoil the old part of the village, with its square and Main Street,pedestrianised and given over to shops and fish restaurants.

A weekend Music Festival is taking place ,sponsored by a local radio station and a brewery – the stage is set in front of the little parish church – I wonder if the musicians get to use the Vestry to get changed? The stage looks “state of the art” with lights and a huge range of speakers.

Craft stalls and portable food outlets have taken over adjacent streets – it all looks well organised. It has added to the variety of visitors over the last two days- younger people, with dreadlocks still very fashionable and some eye catching fashions.

The other day, descending to the cove, we passed an eccentric looking soul – a troubadour ? – picking early blackberries and strumming his guitar as he walked on.

Looking forward to the music – I hope we get some Portuguese folk music – though I hope it’s not Fado,so mournful in my experience.

As has been the case during all of this trip, mercifully few Brits, Portuguese families tend to dominate and that is both welcome and understandable. Hannah in particular has become very fond of Porto Covo and it has been an enjoyable stay – some walking, averaging 6-7 miles day, swimming, reading, BBQs and relaxing.

Sunday 21st, heading Northwards then East 120 miles to Evora, UNESCO Designated Heritage Site,for a couple of days – temperatures of 37-38* predicted, so it will be an early start for touring the city, first visited in the mid 70s. Local bus outside the Campsite which is a bonus.