This is a questioning romantic poem we found along this Etape “ What hidden force draws you?” It asks. I still don’t have an answer !
Another very hot day is forecast and so taxis were taken out of the city towards Navarette, in time for breakfast.
This town is famous for its red clay pottery.“Inspiration exists but it has to find you working” Pablo Picasso08.00 and getting warm as we climbed towards the Iglesia de Nuestra de la Asuncion.Downhill and out into the countryside I knew we were on the right path !Vineyards all the way Entrance to the cemetery- this gate was rescued recycled from the Romanesque-Gothic facade of the 12 th century Hospital de San Juan de Acre.A close look revealed St George spearing a dragon.Rolling hills and a tree whose fruit we could not identify.We came upon an inviting detour to Ventosa which was on the original Camino.Another of those “ if only we had the time” scenarios – I have not walked a Camino with so many inviting distractions.Ventosa “ a place in time”.One of several Bodegas en route.Is that our destination in the distant haze?A stone house typical of shepherds and farmers in Rioja.Here in Aleson are two boards with a Camino tale.An updated version of David and GoliathOn the outskirts of Najera – my favourite” English Cottage Garden” flower.Then this heartfelt poem written by a local priest in the 1980s.
The translation is as follows:
Dust , mud, sun and rain
It is Camino de Santiago.
thousands of pilgrims
and more than a thousand years.
Pilgrim Who calls you?
What hidden force draws you?
– Not even the field of stars
nor the great cathedrals.
It is not the bravery Navarra,
nor the wine of the Rioja
nor the Galician shellfish,
nor the Castilian fields.
Pilgrim Who calls you?
What hidden force draws you?
– Neither the people of the Way
nor rural customs.
It is not history and culture,
nor the rooster of the Calzada
nor Gaudí’s palace,
nor the Ponferrada castle.
I see everything as I pass,
and it’s a joy to see it all,
but the voice that calls me
I feel it much deeper.
The force that pushes me
the force that attracts me,
I don’t even know how to explain it.
Only He above knows!
This romance-poem won the second prize in the literary contest organized by the cultural recreational society “PEÑA EL SALERO”, from Santo Domingo de la Calzada, on September 19, 1987.
Entering Najera is not the most memorable of ways but the possibility of a cold drink overcame our disinterest.This was a warm welcome.No, coffee was not what was requiredAnd some shade was…Gaseosa and Claras were downed gratefully. It was only a ten minute walk to Hostel Hispano, our digs for tonight and sited just across from the park and River Najerilla.Wall in the Reception area of Hostal Hispano
28 miles would make this the longest Etape of our Camino and again, given an even hotter weather forecast than the previous day, it was decided to shorten the walk by taking taxis some way along.
07.30 and ready to go.
We alighted at a hilltop by a small sanctuary in Borgota.
Blessings and protection needed especially from the sun.It’s an open road for some distance .A rare and welcome spot of shade.On the way now to Viana with views of neatly laid vines.On some of the vineyards there are roses,not planted for any aesthetic reason. Pale yellow for white grapes,and red or pink for red grapes – if the roses decline before the vines it’s a signal to the winemaker to intervene.The welcome sight of Viana in the distance and the certainty of refreshments after a long stretch.Created in the 13th Century,enclosing several settlements within a fortified wall. Despite its strategic position in various wars between Castile and Navarre throughout its history , it has always been an important pilgrim town and at one point had four pilgrim hospices. The Camino goes right through the centre of the old town. We took a seat opposite the Iglesia de Santa MariaGold painted Baroque Retabla which focuses on Mary’s life,especially her ascension into heaven.The man himself and we got a sello here – not always available in churches as they are often closed.We took a longish break here and enjoyed the people spotting in this lively atmospheric street.We exited by an ancient gate and made our way out of Viana,downwards thankfully.Still seven miles to Logrono.The map reminds that we are heading into La Rioja.I’m quite indifferent to graffiti but this one I was quite taken by.There are no services between Viana and Logrono but this made a pleasant bag break and an opportunity to take on more water.It would take some time to figure out all the imagery in this attractive mural.Logrono in the distance.Making good progress despite the heat.Up and over the Autovia.An interesting grass plant .On the outskirts of the city.The EU as so often has been the case, supported the improvement of the Camino into Logrono. However,during the works a mass grave was discovered of victims of Franco’s oppression.Closer and closer…La Rioja You pass through some welcome shady gardens with a pleasant water feature to remind you that the Ebro is not far away now.Up and over the river Ebro, the widest we have encountered so far.A very elegant bridge with the spires of Logrono’s churches emerging.My first ever selfie,taken by mistake as we waited for Pelegrinos to arrive – a look that says what is needed most…Salud.Another fascinating saunter on the Camino Frances.
I’ll finish this Blog with a few photos from our afternoon and evening in Logrono.
The streets in the Old Town
Friday evening and the tapas trail in and around Calle del Laurel gets really busy.
The Cathedral,squares and churches are in abundance.
We had a meal in the square opposite the cathedral,sampling both white and red Rioja wine. Logrono is worth a longer stay but as is the way on the Camino it was time to walk on to Najera.The Hotel Los Bracos Breton de Los Herreros lobby.
The gradients look kind today but looks can be deceptive.
We climbed a small hill along an agreeable path towards the Monasterio de Irache,passing small huertas and scallop shells a plenty.
We stopped at a small foundry where there was an impressive array of hand made artefacts on display – a small fire was burning and the craftsman stamped our Credencials.
Before reaching the Monasterio we came to the famous Bodegas Irache vineyards – http://www.Irache.com – founded in 1891. The vines surrounding us round here have been cultivated since the 12 th century. In 1991,100 years after it was founded,a wine and water fountain was put in place. The symbolism represents Jesus’s first miracle at the Wedding of Cana.There are 100 litres of wine available each day after the fountain is switched on at 09.00. Traditionally pilgrims would fill their scallop shell with wine before walking on. We timed it to perfection, but wine just after 09.00 is more of a sobering experience!
If only we had the time .“Please let the ones after you enjoy their swing” Que? Lost in translation I think,but I did learn the Spanish for “ swig”- trago.Just after the Bodega is the Monasterio- by the 7th century there was a religious foundation here and the Benedictines founded the Monasterio in the 10 th century. It has also served as a university teaching medicine,law,philosophy and theology well into the 19 th century.
We walked on in glorious surroundings along a dirt track – fields and forests abound.
We were soon approaching the tiny village of Azqueta and in the distance a view of a distinctive hill that’s topped by the castle ruins of Villamayor de Monjardin.Understandably none fancied the idea of a two hour detour up the hill despite the promise of views of the Cantabrican mountains- this site has been fortified by different tribes since Roman times.It’s a long stretch from here to Los Arcos with no services.A Moorish Baths We stopped for refreshments at Bar Illaria Iglesia de San AndresA look at the temperature made us decide to take a taxi for the few remaining kilometres to Los Arcos.Tortilla the Pelegrinos’ “go to” snack.
We received a warm welcome from Jaime the owner of Hosta Monaco ,with whom I had exchanged several correspondences over the last few months. It is a really good set up – spacious rooms with wrap around balconies and walk in showers.
Good views.
As the heat subsided Tom,Rob and I went in search of somewhere to eat.Although there appeared to be several choices,according to Google Maps, at least four were no longer open for business- the toll taken by the pandemic and the absence of thousands of pilgrims as another consequence. Rob said when he was here six years ago the place was heaving.
Tinto Verano – summer wine – became another “go to” for us Camigos.Whether it was the effect of the Tinto Verano or desperation, we made what seemed to be an unlikely choice for dinner.Jubilados is the Spanish word for “ retired” so we were made very welcome and felt quite at home with an excellent Menu del Dia featuring anchovies as an appetiser and concluding with Cheese and Membrillo.Local cheese and The Membrillo is a kind of firm jelly made from these beauties.They dined on mince, and slices of quince, Which they ate with a runcible spoon. And hand in hand, on the edge of the sand. They danced by the light of the moon, the moon, the moon, They danced by the light of the moon. Last lines from “ The Owl and the Pussy Cat”
Another hot day forecasted meant an early start by narrow dirt paths and roads,surrounded by hills with occasional vines,plentiful wild flowers and wheat fields; butterflies a plenty,too.
Cloudless scenery on our way.
It was a climb up to Cirauqui, spelled Zirauki in Basque which means “ nest of vipers”- a reference to the belief that serpents lurked in nearby crevices,or possibly hideouts for bandits preying on pilgrims. In the Codex Calixtinus,the 12 th century guide to the Camino there are warnings not to drink the water as it was toxic!
Today it’s a pleasant village of about 500 people.With plenty to hold your interest.
For the next 3.3 KM we walked on a well preserved Roman Road.
The road is still being excavated in places .The stones have been buffed by 2000 years of feet and hooves.A rare Roman bridge.
We came across an olive grove that is being restored by volunteers. The name was well chosen.
With the Road bisecting it.
We were now heading towards Lorca, with ups and downs – little habitation – a wilderness almost.
JUNE and Tom take a break in the doorway of a church.
The last village before Estella is Villatuerta – the name means “ curved or sinuous village”.
Iglesia de la Asuncion- looks like a fortress Brilliant blossomA Huerta
Another useful Signboard showing tomorrow’s destination,Los Arcos
The Fuentes – water fountains- are always a welcome site and a chance to enjoy some shady respite from the sun.Nearly there .Entering Estella
Our accommodation for this evening is Casa Daniella,just off the appropriately named Plaza de Santiago – a triangular square with a fountain to boot.
At the end of a long,hot walk, what could be better?
The town is built around the Calle Mayor, it’s Main Street along which millions of pilgrims have made their way through and put over the six arched Romanesque bridge.
The doorway into the Iglesia de Santiago,an example of remaining Mudejar architecture. The archway has a variety of demons, professions, saints and people engaged in dubious temptation.
Santiago Beltza, the “ Black St James” black symbolising fertility and the sacredness of the earth. A male equivalent of the many Black Madonnas?
Walking on you come to the Rio Arga spanned by the Queen’s Bridge, built in the 11 th century either by Queen Dona Mayor or by her successor Estefania.
An excellent tourist office is housed on the left .It’s a very picturesque area here.Everything you need to know.Calle MayorCraft beer after the tour of the town.Pilgrims only!Great place for la cena.Keeping the Serrano cool.A classic Spanish salad topped with Elvers.Area de Descanso at the hotel.
A bit of time for contemplation about the Camino Frances .
For years I had rejected the idea of walking the Frances – information gained from forums and blogs reinforced the impression of crowds, commercialisation, litter – it seemed to be over hyped. It was only after a conversation with fellow camigo Rob about our need to plan a past Covid Camino – Rob had walked the Frances six years previously – that I came to accept the possibility. That, a reading of the MOON guidebook convinced me that I should enjoy the experience. It would only be two weeks worth – St Jean Pied de Port to Burgos – but the reading clinched it. And, after planning that began in November ‘21 it came to fruition now in June 2022.8 Sutton Coldfield Ramblers, including myself are joyfully on our way.
This saying is engraved into the famous life sized sculpture on the Alto de Perdon – “ where the way of the wind meets the way of the stars “
The turbines align along the ridge of the hill where the region’s strongest winds blow. This wind is supposed to carry away your remorse and bestow forgiveness . Alto de Perdon means “ the height of forgiveness”.The Camigos are always forgiving😇At 770 metres you get a sweeping view
There used to be a pilgrims’ hospital here but nothing remains now. However, there is a Civil War memorial commemorating the assassination of 97 victims of Francoist repression.
The stone in the middle symbolises all who disappeared and the other stones the towns and villages where some of the population were murdered.Walking poles always help.The path downwards winds through almond groves, Holm Oaks and wheat fields – we took our time on the trickier sections.Poppies on the roadside into the tiny village of Uterga.Outdoor sanctuary dedicated to Mary.On the outskirts of Uterga.An intriguing display on a garden wall.
We visited the church and obtained another sello
Onwards towards Obanos.Another engaging camino mural
Obanos has a large central square and the impressive Iglesia de San Juan Bautista.
The Camino goes through the square and we exited by way of a pointed Gothic gate.
Rehydration stop – Rob shows how.Now that’s what you call pork crackling .Pelota is a very popular sport here.
Leaving the village you can walk through a modern metal sculpture with a cut out figure of a pelegrino – this marks the area where the Camino Aragonese meets the Frances.
Tom marches through
On the path to Puente la Reina we walked past “ huertas” and smaller gardens with plentiful vegetables and overhanging a wall the foliage of a beautiful tree.
Finally following a fertile valley with vines a plenty we reach Puente la Reina .
Our accommodation is Hotel El Serco Rural where we were greeted with a welcome glass of home made lemonade by our host.
Another rewarding and pleasing etape accomplished on the Camino Frances.
It was a longish trek past an enormous cement works as we left Zubiri
On through Larrasoana and shortly afterwards Akerreta. Another sleepy,delightful village.
We were pleased to get a “ sello” – a stamp for our Pilgrim Passports or Credencials here.
Some members of a Portuguese group at the Abbey – more of them later !
Now for some flora and fauna
Butterflies with us all the wayWild Sweet Peas
We were now walking alongside the Arga river and although it looked quite tame it obviously rose to some considerable heights as I noticed a wheelie bin which had been swept along until wedged in some tree branches .
Over a bridge at Zurian for coffee where we were serenaded by the Portuguese group in great voice and even lack of dress sense!
Pelegrinos basking in the shade by the river – the temperature was rising.
We were given this reminder about the Basque sense of pride.
We were now approaching the outlying districts of Pamplona and at Excabarte we crossed the river.
A Romanesque bridge dating back to Medieval times into Trinidad de Arre.June having a breather in the shadeBefore and after What a tempting scene. Oh for a dip.Hemingway in PamplonaPamplona is worth a day or two of your time if you are ever that way . A great deal to see. If you have the time, sadly we did not as a Camino keeps you moving on. There is more to it than San Fermin and the bull running. Take a look at the link below
And the only things you should leave behind are your footprint and a smile .
We set off in coolish conditions and paused for a group photo at this iconic road sign
It’s a shorter distance walking the Camino .
We reached Auritz/ Burguete – Hemingway is still a revered figure here.
Hemingway has some cogent thoughts about war .Thinking of that deluded monster Putin.
After coffee and snacks we set off across a stream under threatening skies.
The rain swept in and it was Poncho time!Only for half an hour and we walked on past “ huertas” and broad views at Erro.Huerta – Spanish allotment Brightening skies
Our Lady of Roncesvalles protect us. Amen
Mary felt protected as she crossed over the stepping stonesLong strides
The villages are mainly well maintained and attractive although there are occasional signs of delapidation – some TLC needed.
Could be a place to have as a bolt hole
We had lunch in Gerendian but resisted the temptation of some locally brewed Pacharan
It was lunchtime after all and we would need to be at our sharpest on the descent through Esteribar in to Zubiri.Best foot forward on the Camino..
Walking through Gerendian was very pleasant
The path began to descend and became quite hazardous for some distance.Thankfully it wasn’t rainingEveryone made the descent without any misadventures and we crossed over the river into Zubiri to find our Casa Rural Txantxorena.Lots of original features and a charming hostSpacious bedroomsAn enjoyable dinner at a nearby albergueJune,Tom and Rob relaxing in the garden
SUNRISEJust over ten miles of both climbs and descents to undertake as we set off from Orisson at 07.30 in brilliant sunshine. The views were spellbinding,unravelling at every turn in the track.The mist being burnt off.
Horses roam freely up here – provisions for the still flourishing French horsemeat trade.
Newly born foal being taught the Green Cross Code.There are no permanent facilities up here,but there may be a pop up van.He just pops over from the nearby border with Spain, you can tell that because the prices are so reasonable.
At this point you leave the narrow road and continue the ascent on well worn tracks
Heading towards the highest pointThe border crossing in to Navarre ( Spain ). Wish all borders were like this.Eventually, the track descends for a long way to Roncesvalles Most of the walking has been done either on grass verges or grass itself.Another horse with no name!Roncesvalles in the far distance.Getting ever closerAlmost thereIf something differentiates Roncesvalles from other neighbouring towns, it is its history, its legends, and for being the place chosen by pilgrims to start the Camino de Santiago, known as the French Way. I was surprised by how small this town in the Navarrese Pyrenees is , it only has 30 inhabitants for the importance it has in history and the number of visitors who pass by every day. Settled on the Ibañeta pass and the last town in the Auñamendi region, it was a passageway used since prehistory to enter the Iberian Peninsula. But the really important thing is their constructions. What most impresses when arriving at this town, a shelter for walkers and a meeting place for cultures, is its medieval monumental artistic ensemble such as the Collegiate Church, the tomb of King Sancho VII, the Fort and the old pilgrim hospital.
Hotel Roncesvalles a very pleasant stay and dinner.Another great day on the Camino Frances and the amazing Pyrenees are now behind us – unforgettable.And it’s good night from him.
We agreed a 07.30 start to our climb up to Refuge Orisson after breakfast.
We took the Route Napoleon.The gradients were gentle at first, but soon began to lengthen.The sunlight and the views were spellbinding.Local,information boardAfter three and a half hours walking we were approaching Orisson – our first stopover .A welcome sight and the venue with its panoramic balcony proved to be as good as I had hoped.Mary and Rob arriving.The view from our Eight bed dorm – an Albergue experience for the group!View from the balcony cum terrace.Relaxing after a good mornings climb.A tradition at Orisson is for everyone to introduce themselves and say why they are walking the Camino – some of our group felt a little shy so after Tom said a few words I introduced the rest of the group and gave my/ our reasons.
Buenas Tardes,
We are a group of Jubilados, sounds so much better than senior citizens.
We are a group of refugees from disunited kingdom,or Little Britain as it now known. So relieved to leave an island ruled by evil people and take refuge here in Civilisation, or Europe as it is sometimes called.
We are all of a certain vintage, we have all walked Caminos before.
Our goal this Summer is Burgos,when in a fortnight we have to return.
Most of you will doubtless pass us on the way, please say hello and if by chance in a bar have a chat – you may discover a professor of chemistry,a cycling violinist , a director of the 3rd age university and a multi lingual player of the organ,amongst many other talents- you may discover a professor of chemistry, a cycling violinist, a director of the 3rd age university and a multi lingual player of the organ amongst many other talents / we are a convivial bunch, not a closed community.
This is our opening day and once again I puzzled myself with the question why am I walking the Camino…again, after about 12 caminos . To conclude our introduction,
I liked this note written in the Pilgrim Book in Roncesvalles and cited by John Brierley :
“ I am doing the Camino once again,looking for something I left behind, or perhaps never found. It’s like coming home.”
And so good night. Tomorrow we climb on and then down to Roncesvalles.
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