We enjoyed a good buffet breakfast this morning, Ranjit on the coffee, before setting out for Carrion de Los Candes – 13 miles,or so.
La Huerta – a Spanish allotment
13 miles to Carrion de Los Condes,with a pleasant walk alongside the River Ucieza.
26 May26/06/23 LEON TO SAN MARTIN DEL CAMINO
26 May
A forbidding daybreak over Leon with a threat of rain to come, but a brisk walk took us to one of Leon’s jewels – San Isidoro.
• Alfonso V.
• Ferdinand I
• Alfonso VI
• Urraca
• Alfonso IX
“The basilica also deserves to highlight its chapels , its museum (with a large amount of early medieval art and a library), the sculptures on its doorway and the architecture of the building itself.” TAKEN FROM THE WEBSITE
The most important piece in the museum is the chalice on display in its own room, La Sala del Cáliz .
It is a cup made up of two onyx stone bowls, dating from the 1st century AD, adorned with jewels from Doña Urraca herself and which has been linked to the cup used by Christ at the Last Supper .
That is, what we all know as the Holy Grail .
Today it is exposed to the public, and we know that it was not conceived as such. It is a large piece, made of leaded copper covered in gold, with gems serving as eyes (now disappeared), dating from the 6th century and coming from Persia. How did you get to Leon? Nobody knows , nor does anyone know what the inscription inside it means.For many years the tower that the San Isidoro complex has was crowned by the figure of a rooster, which everyone thought was a simple weather vane.
Who was San Isidoro ?
According to legend, a man in a white tunic appeared in a dream to Bishop Alvito de León, who told him that he was the Archbishop of Seville and asked him to take his remains to León, in addition to giving him indications of where they were (it was not known exactly).
Indeed, he found the tomb of the archbishop, and how he also transmitted it in his vision, three days after the discovery he died in the city.
As already mentioned the advice from many guidebooks is to skip the first part of the route out of the city which traverses monotonous suburbs and industrial units. The whole walk from Leon to San Martin can be described as somewhat uneven terrain, for until arrival, everything has been an endless plain….or should I say pain”? There was little of photographic interest as the route crisscrossed – crossed the N 120.
25 th May – A REST DAY IN LEON
25 May
https://www.catedraldeleon.org/ is the cathedral website
– click on the Union Jack. There is so much to enjoy here it would be impossible to do it justice in a Blog. So I shall just share some photos
Gaudi in Leon
Gaudí Botines House Museum
At the end of the 19th century, a young architect who had never left Barcelona crossed the peninsula to build a fabric warehouse in León.
His name was Antonio Gaudí, and the building would be Casa Botines.
A unique work that cities all over the world would dream of.
Casa Botines is part of the monumental itinerary that any traveler wants to know when visiting a place.
There is no history of art or architecture that ignores its originality and its contribution to the world of construction.
The building, declared a National Historical Monument in 1969, is an amazing example of what the art of architecture is.
The Museum, dedicated to the history of the building, the figure of Antonio Gaudí and art and painting from the 19th and 20th centuries, exhibits the Fundación España-Duero Collection with works, among other artists, by Ramón Casas i Carbó, Raimundo de Madrazo, Joaquín Sorolla, José Navarro Llorens, Ignacio Pinazo, Nicanor Piñole and Joaquín Mir Trixet.
Gaudí’s magic is present in multiple details such as the Catalan vaults, the cast iron columns, the stained glass windows on the noble floor, the light in the patios, the wooden and wrought iron stairs or the basement that houses -among other curiosities- the original tower from 1893.
Casa Botines is one of the most interesting pieces of nineteenth-century architecture in Spain, whose angular towers give it the appearance of a fairytale castle.
The Gaudí of Casa Botines is the most architect Gaudí, the artist who knows how to unite technique and aesthetics without a solution of continuity.
THIS IS AN EXTRACT FROM THIS INFORMATIVE WEBSITE https://www.turismocastillayleon.com/es/arte-cultura-patrimonio/museos/museo-casa-botines-gaudi
TO LEON – NOT A PARTICULARLY MEMORABLE WALK – BUT LEON WILL BE.
24 May
There was little in the way of particular interest fora few kilometres and we were pleased to come across a rest stop not mentioned in the guide books.
That will have to do for now. Leon still maintains the traditional siesta where most places, except restaurants, close from 13.00 – 16.00. Temperature reached 25* today – very pleasant and a good forecast for our “ rest” day here.
Camigas – FROM BURGO EL RANERO TO MANSILLAS DE LAS MULAS – Fin de Meseta
24 May
It is an important enclave of the Camino de Santiago, since in this town the Royal French Way and the Vía Trajana converge.
The town has a medieval origin, and is surrounded by a walled enclosure, built around the year 1181 to defend the town from the banks of the Esla, so the walls have considerable dimensions (3 meters thick and 14 meters high). .
Sections are still in good condition, especially next to the river;
although of the four gates it had, only two remain .
Hermitage of the Virgen de Gracia and the ruins of the Puerta del Castillo (today destroyed), through which the intramural town of the
walled enclosure was accessed , is this monument dedicated to the pilgrim.
It is made of stone, and consists of a series of statues representing pilgrims on the Jacobean route, resting on a staircase on which stands a cross carved on both sides with images of the Virgin and Christ respectively.
The monument is erected in this place as it is the junction between the French Camino de Santiago and the Roman Road (or via Trajana).
It is surrounded by two-storey houses, typically Castilian, characterized by its arcades in which the columns are large wooden beams supported on stone plinths.
These houses are a sample of the typical architecture of this area, which can also be seen in other places in the city (Plaza del Grano and Plaza de Lena).
They are generally inhabited by traders, who have their store on the ground floor and their homes above.
In the middle of the square is the well, hence its name, and also a modern monument built in metal.
22/05/23 From Sahagun to El Burgo Ranero
22 MaySahagun is a sleepy place – in a time warp – the only lively activity was a bouncy castle for children who had made their First Communion – all sailor suits and white frocks.
We were on our way and after an hour or so,it was a welcoming picnic spot for refreshments on the REAL CAMINO FRANCES.
An experience that reminds us that an independently arranged Camino is not a package holiday- there will be occasional setbacks but always more than compensated by the rewards.
SUN. 21/05/23 Ledigos to Sahagun10 miles
21 MayIn my last Blog I wrote quite a piece on Albergue La Morena, however, the reality of staying there yesterday ( Sat. 10/05/23 ), was quite different. A tale of two contrasting scenarios. FIRST the rooms were modern and bright, with nice touches – fruit bowl, complimentary water, foot cream and hydration pack – the problem was getting in to the room. It took 50 minutes to register and get keys, I was unimpressed by the initial greeting I got on entrance , from a diminutive woman dressed impeccably in white – “ You’ll have to wait “ – she made no effort to assist her hapless colleague on reception duties. SECOND after enjoying a couple of beers in the sun we made our way to dinner promptly at 19.00 as ordered. We examined the Pilgrim Menu 2 choices of first and second courses,3 for dessert. Traditionally, and in every restaurant I have ever eaten, water,soft drink, beer or wine is included in the menu – this menu “ included” water / bread.The receptionist came for our drinks order – 2 bottles of wine €36.50 – no house wine! Then eventually our order for the meal,was taken by the barman, they had run out of one of the choices ( there were only two ). One of the first courses was Estufado of Broccoli ( broccoli stew ). It has to be the worst thing I have ever seen on a Spanish plate. TG I had the soup which was lukewarm . It took 45 minute before any food was served. My main gripe was not the poor quality of the food,on a Camino you can expect the occasional stinker, what enraged me ? It was totally unpilgrimlike and not in the spirit of the Camino . IE – a rip- off as there was no other place to go in this small hamlet. Grandmother La Morena would be turning in her grave.
Sunday’s walk began under cloudless, blue skies. We passed an Albergue on the way out of Ledigos
sing along with Sydney Carter’s classic
https://youtu.be/5jhAzbdKq6U
FROM CARRION TO LEDIGOS – AND TUMBEWEED JUNCTION,24 KM
20 May
We passed Hotel Real Monasterio de San Zoilo on the edge of town – a very impressive place to stay, but at £92.00 a night, a little above our budget
Except for the first few kilometers on the local road, the rest runs along dirt tracks that easily get flooded in case of rain.
The section from Carrión de los Condes to Calzadilla de la Cueza is the longest without intermediate towns on the entire French Way;
We walked along the very Vía Aquitania, the old Roman road that linked Bordeaux with Astorga.
We walked on to Calazadilla de la Cueza – 10.5 miles on from Carrion .
His life was based on principles of conduct and a way of being and doing focused on family, work and religion.
I cannot avoid moving to a Sunday at noon before describing La Morena. Dark heels with a gold detail, crystal stockings, a black skirt below the knee and a beautiful flower-printed blouse. An essential in her style were her lips perfectly made up in shades of pink and a good dose of Nelly hairspray to fix her combed hair. Her daily ritual was to wash her face with lizard soap and thoroughly apply a cotton pad soaked in 96º alcohol. A liturgy that made the skin of her face perfect, radiant and full of life. Her wavy black hair was a perfect tandem with her green eyes.
La Morena, according to those who knew her, was a woman with exuberant beauty . One of those women that the photographers of the time were dying to capture, trying to capture the perfect combination of beauty and personality on paper.
La Morena was much loved and admired. She was always willing to listen, help and lend a hand to her. At times, she was the victim of her bad temper and her strong personality.
When the Camino de Santiago was barely exploited, La Morena already received letters and postcards from London, Bilbao or Lisbon from some pilgrim who wanted to thank her for her hospitality. A glass of fresh water, a chorizo sandwich from the pot or a while under the shade of the fig trees in the house was reason enough to invest in a stamp bound for Ledigos.
Since the 50s, Bar La Cueza was a mandatory stop for pilgrims , merchants or residents of the town. The star dishes of La Morena were stewed tripe, roast suckling lamb in the wood-fired oven or the products of the slaughter. Some clients paid religiously and others not so much, but none of them lacked a glass of wine accompanied by a mouthful of tradition.
It is very difficult to leave a mark on people and on history, my grandmother did it. Today she is a well-known character and recognized for her good work.
My curiosity has awakened to inquire about the meaning of Priscila, my name and that of my grandmother. It is the diminutive of Prisca, derived from the Latin priscus, meaning “old, ancient”. It refers to material or immaterial goods that no longer exist today, what was in the past, what was from another time. It was a term used poetically in imperial times, with nuances of veneration and respect for the ancestral. Now I understand the reason why my great-grandparents chose that name, Priscila, La Morena.
We want to pay her this tribute to her daughter and her grandchildren, at home, where we will try to ensure that each corner does not forget its essence”. It took forever to book in as the receptionist chanted to all and sundry between showing pilgrims to their rooms – she needed some of grandma’s focus.
13 miles to Carrion de Los Condes,with a pleasant walk alongside the River Ucieza.
19 MayWe enjoyed a good buffet breakfast this morning, Ranjit on the coffee, before setting out for Carrion de Los Candes – 13 miles,or so.
La Huerta – a Spanish allotment
At last, the sun shone consistently and the wind dropped. A long stage tomorrow of 17 KM without much infrastructure and so Mike,Ranjit and I went to the supermarket to enable our progress tomorrow. After dropping off the shopping we headed back to the Plaza Mayor to sit in the evening sunshine with a couple of beers.
SHORT WALK TO FROMISTA ALONG THE CANAL DE CASTILLA AND A “REST” DAY
18 May“That thou, light-winged Dryad of the trees,
In some melodious plot
Of beechen green, and shadows numberless,
Singest of summer in full-throated ease.”
ODE TO A NIGHTINGALE by John Keats
As we were walking along the Canal ,Tom stopped and with the aid of an App. on his phone, identified the song of a Nightingale – something I had never heard before – the Camino provides wonder,too.
A leisurely start to a short saunter this morning,with the ever present markers to guide us.
The Canal de Castilla, an impressive work of hydraulic engineering, was one of the best projects of this type to be built in Spain throughout the 18th and 19th centuries at the hands of the Enlightenment and at a time when it was necessary to sell grain surplus and improve commercial communications.
What was born as a navigation route for the transport of goods, would be closed to traffic in the middle of the 20th century, in 1959. Considered today as an Asset of Cultural Interest, since then its main function has been focused on irrigation, to which unites its interest as one of the most attractive tourist routes in Castilla y León, due to the scenic, natural wealth and the historical-artistic value that the cities that are in its path arouse.
This artificial river, which runs for 205 kilometers of the plateau between the provinces of Palencia and Valladolid, has become a route of cultural interest that in its three branches -North, South and Campos- offers visitors a rich and varied architecture of its own , a natural environment on its shores and the historical and traditional grounds of the towns that are in its path.
The Northern Branch starts in Alar del Rey and ends in Ribas de Campos, where the so-called Ramal de Campos begins, until it reaches Medina de Rioseco. And the Southern Branch begins at the fork of the Campos Branch in El Serrón and continues to the city of Pisuerga, Valladolid. https://www.turismocastillayleon.com/es/arte-cultura-patrimonio/grandes-rutas/canal-castilla
We continued along the Camino and entered Fromista noting another Stork’s nest on the way.
A 12.5 mile walk tomorrow . Ranjit declared “ it would be a walk in the park “ – we’ll he would, wouldn’t’ he ?
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