ensuitepilgrim's Blog

There are many reasons for writing a Blog.When it comes to travel, then recapturing moments, views, people….selecting a photo ( Ithink I took two hundred plus ), is my attempt to encapsulate one of the above.It is not scientific; it is either an  emotional, or a spontaneous selection, from memory and the spur that a photo can provide.

For example, a picture of a herd of contented Black Iberian Pigs, is not an obvious metaphor for Calvary,but that is exactly what greeted us on reaching the summit of a hill by that name…not three crosses. Subjectivity ,why did I like the GumRose, of all the wild flowers, so much? 

 I have tried to list what I took from this Camino….and what I gave.The Solo Pilgrimage I made, last time, was to restore self belief and confidence, after serious illness; it worked , although I did not know that an even greater challenge was to come when Cancer was diagnosed,three months after its completion! Nine months since the surgery, with the encouragement of family and my fellow Pelegrino, Mac,the first Etape of the Via de la Plata has been made.I took a risk, but then a UROSTOMY is only a diversion after all.I took all my preparation with me, the maps , the websites, the training and the relentless re-packing to reduce Rucksack weight.“Life is a journey. When you travel, you live twice.”  

 What did I give? Obviously as a Pelegrino, I gave to the locals…unsolicited tips in bars and cafés; giving more in change than what I paid, for fresh fruit at a local shop.Small instances, these, but a Pilgrim always says ” thank you”.”Muchas Gracias” to all the kindly and hospitable Spanish people, who helped in so many ways,whether responding to requests for  directions,or explaining the intricacies of Gazpacho,Extremaduran style….Muy Bien.I gave my encouragement to fellow Pelegrinos ..”Buen Camino”, many times along  the Way.

Mac was my comrade in arms, literally, helping me on numerous occasions to lift up my rucksack on to my shoulders. 

 Yes, he’s just contemplating his next lift! Mac, of course, knew all the Pilgrims ( happily far more than we expected), we met, by the end of most days; we took a great deal of ,hopefully mutual pleasure, from talking to a fascinating range of walkers:- Jean & Tom from California, for example, he was 72 years young and his wife, 83!On her third marriage,with 25 grandchildren between them. Then there was an occasional meet with a Costa  Rican  and his German wife,taking their beautiful 12 month old son with them.From the sublime to the sublime.We ate , drank and laughed with a Hungarian couple , four convivial, Dutch guys, Italians , Germans,French and Spanish.I remember, by request, translating a Spanish Menu into French for a bewildered couple , from Eastern France.Now, that is a responsibility! Many amusing waiters and one that sticks in the mind reminded us of Marty Feldman,who would double bounce our empty Schweppes Tonic bottles off the table;he rewarded our laughter with free shots of “Acorn Kiss Extremeno ” Liqueur ….Delicious.

A character who impressed us with his unerring ability to find us, most evenings, in whatever bar, square, or restaurant , we found ourselves in, was a Liverpudlian,”Our Kid” as he nominated himself, despite being 68 years old! Found out later, he was called Brian.Although, now living in Bantry Bay,his accent was  unmistakeable .He could beguile you with anecdotes, mostly beginning..”this mate of mine…” and a predilection for the works of Noam Chomsky, who he regarded as a Guru…” 501″ was the title of the Tome he carried with him and apparently it has all the answers. A musical therapist by trade and great company ….in small doses.T G he was a much faster walker than us.“I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me.” Noel Coward.

What was absolutely common across all the Pelegrinos, we were fortunate to meet, was their compassion and their curiosity.And, the major difference between a Package type holiday ( not meant in any disparaging way ) and Walking a Camino is “The traveler sees what he sees; the tourist sees what he has come to see”. – Gilbert K. Chesterton 

   A most rewarding experience for an Ensuitepilgrim; we met youg people who were walking the full 1000Km,sleeping under cagoules , when Albergues were full and seemingly living on biscuits! We were privileged to be able to look forward to our own shower and room; thereby freeing up space in the Albergues! 

 Thanks to everyone for their love , help and support – it was a privilege for us both.Viva Espana……“I have long believed that any man interested in either the mystic or the romantic aspects of life must sooner or later define his attitude concerning Spain.” 

James A. Michener “Iberia” 1968  

We travelled by bus, rather than walk the last leg – not the most uplifting part of the trail; monotonous and flat – also for more time in Caceres. 

Visited Santiago ‘s Church, which was open to visitors and on the Camino, going Northwards.simple but impressive structure and a relief from the usual Baroque overstatement. 

   Toured the old quarter and enjoyed some good Tapas for lunch.

The altar is decorated in honour of Our Lady of the Mountain 

A blessing or a problem,depending on your point of view,that not being near any major airport, possibly limits the numbers of tourists to this city of monuments.The Plaza Mayor is one of my favourites of all the major cities I have visited. 

Finally 

 Despite a good guide, the density of old Palacios and Churches can be overwhelming. 

 On Wednesday morning, the square was host hundreds of Spanish visitors, wearing white necker chiefs,white chef’s hats!Mainly elderly people.Our hotel receptionist was at a loss to explain the occasion.The people gathered in groups and went off to visit the Old City,whilst others took advantage of the shade in the cafés.Convivial atmosphere and live bands played on the steps of the Town Hall. 

   Visited the old Jewish Quarter,Barrio St Antonio,within which was a fort that guarded an important water source for the city. 

   We then visited the Caceres Municipal Museum, which housed the most uninteresting and sparse variety of objects you could imagine; the building itself was the only rewarding aspect. 

 Above is view of the local Allotments bordering the Ribera stream; contrasts with mine!

It pays to keep looking upwards, 

   Storks are one of the city’s emblems; precarious nesting sites on nearly every tower or chimney.

  
A third of this Camino completed, with the possibility of a third stage later this year.Hopefully, the final destination of that stage will be as arresting as Caceres. 

Finally 

Having left the village,we crossed the river. 

 Soon, we entered National Park; most of the trek would be though forests of Oak.What struck me, immediately, was the silence which was only broken by birdsong. 

 We passed only three Pelegrinos during the course of this walk and were glad, given the usual absence of cafés or bars, that we had Boccadillos ” En Levar”, from where we had taken breakfast.

Moving on, we were relieved that there was a fence between us and these …. 

 I had read that there was little on offer at Alcuesar beyond a bunk in the local Monastery( lights out 9 pm ) .After a search, we found lodging at Casa Grande,a grand old house at the top of the village – we were the only guests and the lady who opened it up for us ran the local bar, where we ordered dinner, later that evening. 

O nd We then set off to find the bus stop, from where we were assured, we could take a bus the next morning to Caceres; remember when you ask a “local” , to choose wisely…after several blind alleys, we found the Parada,which turned out to be a 7 minute walk from Casa Grande.After serenading Mac, with some Caminho – related music, on the I-Pad;”One More Cup of Coffee Before I Go to the Valley,Below” by Roger McGuin & Calexico…great cover version.Good night’s sleep and on to Caceres.

Left Merida early, under a rain- threatening sky,bound for Aljucen,a walk of 17 Km.As we approached Lago de Proserpina , the rain began to fall.Quickly covering rucksacks and ourselves, we walked on, into the squall. A view of the lake:- 

 What a contrast to this picture,as I remembered it when We were here 40 years ago on a camping holiday 40* temperature .The campsite looked closed down now  and ramshackle; surprising , considering the attraction of both the Lake and Merida.This is more like how I recalled it…. 

Thankfully, conditions underfoot were good for the most part,except for a short section as we passed through Oak and Cork trees. 

We reached a tiny hamlet,El Carrascalejo and were fortunate to be directed by a friendly local to what passes for the village bar; without his insistence, we should not have opened what appeared to be the door to someone’s house,somewhat reluctantly.Stepping in to a disorganised, dusty room with a wood stove  and a counter,from behind which appeared a kindly lady who made us some coffee; we were grateful for the time out of the rain, which had ceased as we emerged behind the 16 th Century Church,well cared for ,it seemed. 

We soon reached the outskirts of Aljucen, having dodged a local cycle race and MotoCross, which bizarrely enough, seemed to be taking place at the same time! 

Despite the remoteness of these villages, the Camino was well marked with the traditional, yellow Fleches and occasional plaque: 

Our accommodation was Aqua Libera, a set of small apartments,developed in a Roman Style ( the owner is an archaeologist ).An Atrium as you enter, sets the scene and there were Spas and baths available,too.we dried our boots round the pool ( we hope ) 

 There was a spacious suite awaiting us – this little bit of luxury was well timed, considering our wet, morning walk.  Not much danger from Mosquitos at this time of year.http://www.escapadarural.com/casa-rural/badajoz/termas-aqua-libera/fotos. 

Usual,light lunch at local bar, where we met some Pelegrinos for the first time; most of whom were staying at the village Albergue,including Maggie,who had walked 500km on the Camino Mozarbe, from Malaga- a real feat! 

   I thought I might have worked out by now, why I am doing this Camino

.“There are a few minor reasons for walking the Camino, and one compelling reason. I know the minor reasons, I don’t yet know the compelling reason.”

Amen…

Bloodthirsty calls; bread and circuses.Impressive, nevertheless, and free of rampant teenagers pretending to be on an educational visit!

The Ampitheatre never fails to impress. 

 Such an impressive site…sitting there imagining the bellows of the crowd – slaves up top,apparently. 

Dinner ladies’ day out? Can I have the Migas, please? 

View from the Alcazaba, a Moorish Fort. This was their barracks.

After lunch, the Museum – Stunning building and laid out in a way that encouraged your curiosity.  

 Merida is very accessible on foot and considering its  temptations as a city of great ,historical interest,””Tat free” and really friendly.

Paid our respects…… 

  Some showers, this evening; hopefully over by the time we begin our next stage,tomorrow.Out, via this amazing site,past the lake where we had to seek respite from 40 from the sun, 40 years ago…looking forward to seeing it again. 

We were not sorry to leave Torremejia – a dispiriting place; shabby, where you would not be surprised to see Tumbleweed blowing down  the street – hence no photos!

The only stopover that lacked any character; easy route out, parallel to the N360 highway; trundling on for our usual 90 minute stretch,when, taking a bag- break, we met up with our 4 Dutch friends. 

 Over an incline, and across the fields; cloudy above, but still warm enough… 

  We made decent time towards Merida, conditions underfoot varied from Tarmac to stony and rough – like most of the Camino in Extramedura.also, nearly all Olive groves and vineyards are fenced off and all Fincas are gated and locked.given the size of the inevitable guard dogs, that was reassuring at times! They take security very seriously.

We crossed in to Merida, over the Guadiana River, along the Roman Bridge, which took us into this Roman City. 

 We found our hotel; map from the Tourist  Office helped.Very busy compared to the quiet villages we had become used to so far , but a welcome change nevertheless. 

 Took a stroll around , but our legs were telling us to stop!

So,after  an hour or so, a Siesta called, but we took in one or two Roman remains. 

   We treated ourselves to a slightly special meal; a change, good as they are, from the usual Menu Del Dia.Walking back,across the Plaza De Espana,who should we chance to meet but our Dutch Pelegrinos.After a  glass of Pacharan with them , we headed back to the hotel. 

 Tomorrow,Saturday, Tomorrow, we should be reinvigorated enough to enjoy the Roman sites.

  We had planned to shorten this 28 Km stretch to Toremejia, by 10 Km; taking a taxi for the last 10 Km,but as we paused for a break at a crossroads,by pure coincidence,the owner of the hostal stopped .He was touting for  custom, when he knew we were already booked in, he offered to carry our packs in his car.Great…and we finished in what is ( one horse town would flatter ) a one donkey town,and he went missing. 

 We had walked 28 Km of vineyards…..and not a drop to drink!

Booked in to the Hostal and met up with Pelegrinos we have walked and dine with in a good bar.Wecwere serenaded by a truck driver, At 5.30 pm, singing Puccini! Amazing guy called Juan. 

 Just another character on the road!

16 Km tomorrow to Roman Merida,where we have Two day break,planned.

The blister has not been a problem and The forecast is for slightly milder temperatures. 

 A poppy field proved welcome relief from the vineyards.

“For me there is only the traveling on paths that have heart, on any path that may have heart, and the only worthwhile challenge is to traverse its full length–and there I travel looking, looking breathlessly.

A Pilgrimage is not a form of Public Penance!

Mea Culpa….another Cruzcampo, por favor.

Nature says thou shalt keep the air, skate, swim, walk, ride, run. When you have worn out your shoes, the strength of the sole leather has passed into the fibre of your body. I measure your health by the number of shoes and hats and clothes you have worn out. He is the richest man who pays the largest debt to his shoemaker. ~Ralph Waldo Emerson, 1851

Well, I could do with bookmaker;methinks one is almost caput ,hence the blister; but we still managed 26 Km. 

   There were wild flowers in abundance as well as the “fauna” above… 

A much needed Bocadillo and our favourite “Glacial “,Cruzcampo.

We met up with some Dutch Pelegrinos in the Main Square, in Zafra and spent a long time chatting and buying….! 

 The next day we found breakfast in a roadside Hostal,en route for Villafranca de los Barros,the wine capital of this, the Guadiana region.A thought that kept me going,despite the blister and some very rough surfaces. 

 This was another long walk; we needed several water breaks. 

    We  were grateful to enter Casa Perin,a tastefully designed  residence,and delighted to discover that the hostess was also a Brewer – our first Spanish micro brewery! Cheers! 

 We only had one………for now. 

“The best doesn’t always happen ~ but if you make the best out of what does happen ~ and if you always do that – you will be happy.” 

~ Berry Gordy

Leaving El Real de la Jara, we forded a stream and entered Extremedura. Still Oak forests and Cork trees. 

This castle was the stronghold of the knights who used to guard this route.

A feature,or,  one that is lacking – places for respite – on this Camino, you need to carry  adequate water & snacks to get you through long stretches, as there are no villages,hence no cafés, etc;

However,Some  8 Km out of Monesterio, our destination, incongruously, we came upon a motorway services – Leo Complex – same name as our hotel that evening.We had coffee and My lifesaver,Agua Con Gaz, and were overheard by a family of three, the father having worked in Birmingham and lived in Mere Green – coincidence?

Then a trip to the state of the art loos ,revealed a polite notice that had to be captured. 

 We entered Monesterio, Ham Capital of the region, passing by the Museum of Ham , we found our Hotel Leo.

Mac had a problem with a loose heel one on of his boots; the receptionist at the hotel arranged for him to be taken to a local, hardware store ( closed Sunday ), owned by her aunt,who kindly opened up to sell Mac some Superglue whereby he was able to repair his boot, narrowly avoiding glueing himself to the chair.Such helpfulness…Can you imagine that  happening in a Travelodge?

Next day,the terrain began to change from the Plata  being. ensconced by stone walls, and brush.

   The plains of Tetudia to the West and the Campina Sur to the East; rolling plains and more arable farming, with massive vistas on either side of our Roman route,which undulated and seemed to bisect them both. 

   Our  destination,Fuente  De Cantos,loomed tantalisingly in the distance.We crossed another stream and took a bag break,by a mini cross”. 

   We reached our Apartment, after 23 Km;very  welcoming and spacious,with the biggest grasshopper I have ever seen ! 

 Tomorrow,Zafra a beautiful place apparently; after 27km, I hope we can appreciate it. Meanwhile….. 

  If you think this was a plant; you are right.The smile was soon wiped of our faces when we climbed the “Calvary” Hill towards the end of the day’s walk.

We entered the National Park and enjoyed a beautiful walk through Mediterranean Oak Forests. 

 We were rewarded for our breathless 550 Metre ascent, with the spectacle of Iberian Black Pigs snuffling about. 

 And the ancient mining village ( our next destination ),Almaden de la Plata; an unspoilt gem of a village,where we found El Romeral, our Casa Rural.Storks nesting on the church roof.

Treated ourselves to “Tinto Verano” for Mac; G & T for me. 

 Our next walk, took us through more Oak forest, punctuated by Cactus hedges and cared for countryside. 

 The Camino took us past farms, with goats, pigs and sheep; we were moments behind this birthday. 

   The Camino contined through managed forest,and was well signposted by the Seville Confraternity. 

 Two Kms from our destination was a poignant memorial to the man most responsible for resurrecting the Via de la Plata in Andalucia; his enthusiasm resulted in the office of volunteers referred to earlier in the Blog and their great way marking.

Real de la Jara, castle, sleepy seeming place, our next stop. 

We had climbed another,unanticipated Calvary on our way down; a fountain for Pelegrinos to refresh themselves! 

 To La Encina Hostal, which was situated on the edge of a small, industrial estate; inconguous place !

We met up with an American and a Dutch coupłe that we had bumped into several times.Great company as we spent the afternoon, in the sun together swapping experiences, etc.Quite the norm on a Camino.

Picture of our Dutch friends as they were offered Jelly Beans with their Vino! Good humoured, generous hosts….