9km we said, it will be a breeze we said…Wrong! Friday 13 th? Nobody in this group is superstitious but perhaps we might avoid walking on that day in the future 🫣
The day began peacefully and uneventfully….But.
Then on to B&B Il Vecchietta Via del Cassero, with its wonderful garden and vistas; a medieval house whose stone walks made for a very cool interior
The first part of the walk was very pleasant and uneventful ,with good views of the ever enchanting Tuscan countryside.
Up the hill and another solitary sink for scrubbing.
We walked for some way alongside a single track railway, passing through fields of Alfafa and young Sunflowers
A welcoming place for pilgrims and we had a chat with French group who apart from a large group of Aussies yesterday are the only folk we have met on the Via,so,far.
Buonconvento, only a few kilometres from Siena, is one of the most beautiful villages in the whole of Italy according to ANCI classification. Enclosed within a city wall built in 1379, the medieval village originally only had two entrances at opposite ends of the main street: towards the north is Porta Senese, where the original wooden doors and windows with metal fittings remain, and towards the south Porta Romana, which was destroyed in 1944 by the retreating Germans.
Via Soccini runs right through the historic centre, and was named in memory of the ancient family whose members included illustrious jurists, as well as a couple of heretics who organised various doctrinal Socinianism movements that developed during the sixteenth century.
Thanks to the group for some of the photos.
We called in at a local supermarket enroute to the start of this stage and stocked up with bananas, cereal bars and water as there was a long stretch before coming to a a cafe . We had enjoyed an excellent breakfast at the hotel which would sustain us for the most part. We walked past the Duomo .
We then traversed the famous setting of the annual “Palio” a mad horse race around the periphery of the square.
We were making our way to the Porto Romano to exit this wonderful city.
The soil,takes on a distinctive grey colour for a wide expanse in this area.
Thanks to group,members for some of the fine photos
Tomorrow’s walk is to Buonconvento and Tom has promised a shortcut!
Four stages to the journey today with most of us up at 05..00. Taxis to Digbeth coach station for the 07.05 to Luton airport . It was 20 minutes late but made up most of the time via a convoluted route,taking in stops at Bham airport,Coventry – slow there – Northampton, Milton Keynes, Luton town and eventually …. The airport ! I may have missed one stop out,I think.
Getting through baggage check in and security was very efficient- 30:minutes, although I got frisked about six times at security 🤨. Then flight departure from Gate 43…after 20 minutes everyone had to disembark from the bus to be told the plane was in operative,please go to gate 11, the other side of the airport. Arriving there, checked in for the 2nd time…sorry you’ll have come back from the entrance to the planes because this plane developed a puncture on landing. After an hour, we checked in for the 3rd time and eventually got on board, people remained in good humour, however,and the flight was enjoyable , the captain making up 25 minutes.
Pisa airport was a doddle and our minibus awaited our departure- I had whatsapped them about the delay. A 90 minutes ride through the Italian countryside to Siena and our hotel which was very welcoming .
We enjoyed a cold drink on their patio with Swallows dive bombing everywhere and everyone loved the setting in the evening sunshine. We adjourned to a nearby restaurant for dinner which was great value ,with humorous friendly sevice.
Tomorrow the Camino Francigena begins.
“The last leg starts with a long segment along the sidewalk of the Via Cassia, very traffic congested. Once passed the Grande Raccordo Anulare (Great Ring Junction) the Path enters the green Insugherata Park, a wild oasis in the outskirts of Rome. Then it enters once again in the traffic of Via Trionfale, for then entering Monte Mario park. The view from the overlook of “Mont Gaudii”, the happiness’ Mount, will let you forget the pollution and the traffic, before of the descent to St. Peter’ square, your destination. Frequent eat and drink points and fountains along the itinerary.” GRONZE
Leaving Giustiniana, we cross above the A90 Autostrata tunnel,turn right and pass through the gates of the Insugherata Nature Reserve – an hour’s welcome respite.
https://www.turismoroma.it/en/places/insugherata-natural-reserve
Then through the Roman residential neighbourhood of Sant’Onofrio, two blocks on we reach the Via Trionfale,one of Rome’s historic main arterial roads – cafes, etc,.
Following footpaths we should get our first sight of Rome.
Sylvia Nilsen writes: “During the Holy Year of 2025, pilgrims who go on pilgrimage to the four Holy Doors of Rome (Basilica of St. Peter in the Vatican, Basilica of St. John Lateran, Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, Basilica of St. Paul Outside the Walls) will receive, on request, an official ‘testimonium’ – a certificate proving they have undertaken a pilgrimage to the Tombs of the Apostles Peter and Paul.
The testimonium can be collected at the official Jubilee InfoPoint, located in via della Conciliazione 7, in Rome. Info Point . This certificate is a testimony of the pilgrim’s spiritual participation in the Jubilee, a year of grace for all men and women in the world. The testimonium will be personalized by the volunteers at the InfoPoint with the name and surname of the pilgrim, and the date of the pilgrimage.
In addition, those who arrive in Rome on pilgrimage by foot or by bike, having travelled one of the many paths towards the eternal city, will be able to receive a special, even more personalized Testimonium.
The official Testimonium of the Jubilee will carry a special watermark, with unique properties, guaranteeing its authenticity and certifying it as an official document of the Jubilee. Thus, each certificate will become a unique and significant memorial of the spiritual journey undertaken.
Pilgrims are asked to apply only for the official Testimonium which can be collected only at the InfoPoint in via della Conciliazione 7. Info Point
For large groups it is advisable to book the Testimonium in advance by contacting the InfoPoint.”
https://www.scribd.com/document/260035187/Travel-Guide-24-Hours-in-Rome
After refreshments we depart along the central street as it descends among old stone and stucco homes,reaching the valley floor where we reenter the Parco Veio. The road becomes a path through Alfalfa and Bamboo trees, then heading up past a sports complex. After crossing a bridge look carefully for a poorly marked left turn onto a gravel road. Shortly we come to a Veio shortcut option ( 1.8 KM ) offering a shorter route to Isola Farnese, bringing us alongside Etruscan archaeological sites and an ancient mill.
The centre of modern Isola Farnese is a non descript ,disappointing commercial cluster where the Via Cassia meets the Via dell’Isola Farnese. Medieval Isola, easily missed by walkers, is a cluster of buildings around the castle ( now a wedding venue ).
Although La Storta is the official ending of this stage our accommodation is RESORT LA ROCCHETTA in La Guistiniana.
Shady forest trails.
We pass the National School of Golf,quite a contrast to the surrounding countryside and make our way towards Monterosi,slightly uphill.
https://www.visititaly.com/what-to-see/lazio/monterosi.aspx
The town has a long and colourful history including invasions, papal interventions and assassinations. There is a small 30-hectare volcanic lake within the city limits.
Lago Monterosi.
A straightforward route to the next stop of significance, Mont Gelato with its renowned waterfalls.
We fork left after the park and walk upwards along an asphalt road, through hazelnut orchards. We come close by the Vallelunga motor racing track ( No Italian drivers’ jokes please…oh go on then ). We descend to cross the bed of a season stream,running alongside the Parco Regionale Di Veio.
https://www.turismoroma.it/en/places/veio-regional-park
Today’s saunter, not unusually, ends with an uphill climb on switchbacks before sighting Campagnano.
“An ancient restaurant, born in the early 1900s as a tavern-inn, expanded and renovated over time.
Our cuisine is typically Roman, over time it develops and becomes more creative, reinterpreting traditional Roman-regional dishes.” HOTEL WEBSITE
RECENT REVIEW – A stop on the via francigena to room hotel in square in the newer side of town. WiFi excellent good shower comfortable bed etc. I had dinner in hotel very good meat cooked over charcoal Breakfast included all you need ham cheese etc
BRIEF SUMMARY – FROM THE VIA FRANCIGENA WEBSITE
FLeaving Vetralla, we travel a beautiful stretch in a thick forest, before arriving at the little church of the Madonna di Loreto. From here we cross an immense hazelnut grove and skirt some monumental oaks, before arriving at the Torri d’Orlando, ruins of an ancient monastery.
We continue towards the delightful village of Capranica, and then towards Sutri, a little-known pearl along the Francigena, with its Amphitheatre dug into the tuff, the Mithraeum and the beautiful historic centre.
Water and refreshment points only in Capranica.
It’s a long stretch to Capranica so we shall need plenty of water and snacks. Capranica is described as a “ delightful “ place .
The first stage of today’s walk will take us through leafy green forests
After a further walk through hazelnut orchards, we cross-cross railway tracks, traverse a modest creek by a bridge until we come to Capranica.
https://www.summerinitaly.com/guide/capranica
After a lunch stop and refreshed we continue towards Sutri, ( if not, then a bus or taxi ride to Sutri )
https://miasardegna.eu/en/italy/sutri.html Sutri: An Etruscan Gem at the Gates of Rome
“I stayed here for one night whilst walking the Via Francigena, but I would happily have stayed longer. My room was well-equipped with kettle, dining table and a good bathroom, and there was access to a shared kitchen. The lovely lady who greeted me was very kind and helpful, and Sutri is a pretty little town. Recommended.”
Bar Salza, nearby is recommended for APERITIVOS in the Piazza Camilo, nearby. Also, Jin To EnoGintoneri, a minute away.
M12.05.2025 Via Francigena Viterbo – Vetralla
We were up early, because yesterday we went to bed early.
It’s our first day, so we have to prepare well. A sunny day is forecast, so plenty of sunscreen. To avoid blisters, tape your feet. A common mistake is that one tries to take care of blisters once they’re here. Gotta make sure they don’t show up. That’s why all the tape.
Then we went to see the sisters for breakfast, but we were there all alone, and decided not to do it anyway. Called the nurses to ask if they could leave our backpack there. We decided, considering my knee issue, to walk light this year. So we let 1 backpack be transported from lodges to lodges, and there we of course put the heaviest pieces in, and what we do not need on the way. I carry a small backpack with the camel bag in it, and Liliane carries a smaller backpack with what she thinks she needs on the way.
The nurse informs the person in charge of the rooms to be sure if our story is correct, was ok, and we were allowed to leave our backpack there, and we could go.
We walk through the Pizza della Morte, where we had a good dinner yesterday, passing the Vicolo dei Pellegrini, and so on past the Palazzo Farnese, to the Piazza San Lorenzo, with the Cattedrale di San Lorenzo, and further the Palazzo de Papi.
Here the VF is not properly specified, but I still knew it from last year. You have to go down a narrow metal staircase through a small gate. For those who come to me, this is the way to follow. Then continue to the Porta di Valle, which is still closed, so you have to go right to the Porta Faul with the Torre della bella Galiana, to then get to the Strada Signorino via the Camno Rosso. Mc Donald’s where we have breakfast. It all sounds a bit complicated, but it’s not, everything proves itself.
And so after a nice breakfast with croissant and cappuccino we go back on the road, via the Strada Signorino.
In Viterbo you can continue walking on the Via Francigena in several ways. You can take the long, “scenic” route via the Porta Romana, or the short one via the Strada Signorino, or in between via the Strada Freddano. We choose the short one via the Strada Signorino, which is also beautiful, because this road was carved completely out of the rocks, still by the Etrusks. Very impressive and beautiful. A disadvantage is that the road is also used by cars, but they drive slowly and are all friendly and give us space, and wave good day.
At the end of the Strada Signorino, we come to a field road, and walk under the provincial road. Last year I went directly to the left, but now we take a little more time, and go to the right to the Chiesa di Santa Maria di Castel d’Asso (on the Strada Ponte del Diavolo -;)! ). I highly recommend it to everyone. It is a beautiful old church. There is also the official road sign of 100 km to Rome. On the way we came across another crab crossing the road. And when we got to the church, there was a volunteer cleaning up, because there had been a party yesterday. He offered us a drink, which we accepted with thanks, and we received a nice stamp on our credential.
Then back on our steps to continue following the Via Fancigena. Further, a new resting place has been decorated, very beautiful. We follow the field path parallel to a busy road leading to Vetralla and Rome. Last year there were huge fields here with only coal, but of all kinds (red, white, savoy, spike, etc). Now there’s nothing on the field, and trucks will be hit by with stable manure, probably to work it into the field. There’s a huge pile already.
Along the path there are a huge variety of flowers and plants. Time to open my Obsidentify app and see what plants are all on here.
We walk further on the path, under the highway, and then a long steep climb begins, in the full sun, almost without shelter, we walk among the hazelers. It’s falling heavy. We meet another pilgrim, Will from Sidney, Australia, who also walks to Vetralla. And a little later 2 pilgrims from Canada, also on the way to Vetralla. We stop on the way under a hazel tree, to rest a bit and eat and drink. And when we leave back, we come across a resting place 100 meters further with a table and benches (I had totally forgotten that it was here). There was a couple, volunteers, riding their bikes down the path to make sure everything was clean and in order. Respect, and a big THANK YOU, to these people. Every now and then they also walk a route, to arrive in Rome at the end of next month. Very friendly people. The bank is at about the highest point of this stage, in any case there is a beautiful view of the valley. Walking is a bit smoother from here. We arrive at another resting place, where there is drinkable water. We’re going to rest a bit and eat and drink something. The 2 Canadians also join to rest and drink, and to chat.
How further do we get to a b&b where there is a bench where the pilgrims can rest, and where there is also a stamp for the credential. Last year I also stopped here for a while with Fred, only because it rained. There’s a beautiful birdhouse hanging in a tree now.
How much further can we choose for a shortcut, if we follow the Via Roma, or make a detour if we follow the via Francigena. It’s not too late, and we’re going for “the full tour”. We are not complaining, we pass by a place where you can refresh your feet (we don’t, we don’t have a towel), and a little further to a very old church, Chiesa di Santa Maria in Foro Cassio. A very old, but beautiful church. There is an info point that is staffed (by a young lady) by volunteers. You can write your name or a wish on a stone and put it there, and the lady will also make for us a stone with the symbol of the Via Francigena. Respect back, and thank you for these volunteers.
Now it’s not far to Vetralla. Upon entering, we meet Will van Sidney sleeping in a hotel just outside Vetralla. We will continue after a short chat, and upon entering Vetralla you will pass by an “open air museum”, where there are all things depicting different old professions, furthermore there is a beautiful mural, and there is a building decorated in a nice way. Crossing the busy road, we’ll stop at the tourist service for another stamp, and then we’ll get to our accommodation.
I’m calling the host that we have arrived, and sitting on the terrace of the bar next to the accommodation. A little later he arrives, and shows the accommodation. To the pilgrims who come after us and are looking for good lodging in Vetralla. Address Il Refugio del Pellegrino or Refugio del Cavaliere. Highly recommended. Located on the Via Francigena, next to a bar, where you can drink during the day, which serves breakfast in the morning, and across the street is the restaurant La Lanterna, which I can also recommend. Ate there last year, and this time again, very tasty.
And then it’s time to go to sleep again, because we are a bit tired after all from walking in the sun, with a serious height difference, and still almost 18 km.
See you tomorrow
https://italysegreta.com/the-slow-life-in-viterbo-lessons-from-a-medieval-city/
Day XI is a”rest’ day in Viterbo – the above article gives a loving impression of the city by an American who stayed for the best part of a year, recently.
In 2022 the official route was moved east in order to incorporate footpaths in the vast woods of Monte Fogliano,while the former route on Strada Signorino was preserved as an official variant.
Below is an extract from a Blog written as recently as October,2023 – by an an American pilgrim.
“There are two (ehhh…2.5) routes out of Viterbo. The one recommended in the guidebook involves walking to this McDonalds and continuing on, left at the fork, for a few miles — or taking a short detour by heading right at the fork (thus the 0.5). This route is about 9 miles long and relatively flat. The other route is more like 16 miles long and hilly, and though the guidebook doesn’t mention it, the VF app treats this as the “official” route. Anyway, I was going with the guidebook route, so forked left at the Golden Arches.
The real reason for taking this route is not because it is short or flat (though that helps…) No, it’s to walk in the fascinating Via Cava that the path traces for the first hour of the day. Here, 2500 years ago the Estruscans carved these roads deep into the soft tufa stone, connecting their cities to burial areas. On a side note, I am very fascinated by the Estruscans, who were a very sophisticated pre-Roman society. This was such a cool way to start the day, with the narrow road curving between soft stone walls that got progressively higher and narrower, with a few protruding ominously at the top.”
Apparently, the origin of these excavated roads has a variety of explanations. They are narrow roadways cut into soft,tufa stone over 2 500 years ago. They usually led from Etruscan settlements to nearby necropoli – depth can vary between 12 – 24 metres.
https://www.italyreview.com/vetralla.html Good link to the town.
“Da Benedetta is a hotel in Vetralla, on the ancient Via Francigena, between Viterbo and Rome. It was grandmother Benedetta Rosati who opened, back in 1959, the restaurant from which the hotel developed, at the instigation of the Pasquinelli family (it was the year 2002).
In more than sixty years, our family has seen the territory, the pilgrims and its own hotel change, but never the tradition and the identity legacy of grandmother Benedetta.
Family-run, recently renovated, pet friendly and with a green soul, the Da Benedetta hotel restores the spirit of this splendid land, Tuscia. A soft land, of passage, in which culture is a legacy of ancestors, of wayfarers.“ FROM THE HOTEL’S WEBSITE
“I stayed at Da Benedetta for one night while walking the Via Francigena. Even though I arrived a little early, the very helpful lady on reception allowed me to check in, and my room was both clean and very comfortable, with a good bathroom. Breakfast next morning set me up for several hours walking. A very pleasant location with welcoming staff. Recommended.” RECENT REVIEW
PS I have not gone into too much detail about the route; I have guidance for both and may be worth waiting for Sloways’ info.
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