ensuitepilgrim's Blog

Jacobean pilgrimages attracted people and societies from all over Europe in the Middle Ages: also from “Distant Europe”: the so-called Scandinavian countries – Norway, Sweden, Denmark,Finland and Iceland – and above all, the English, Scottish, Irish and Flemish. All of them helped to establish what we are now walking along, the English Way.They came to Galicia by sea from their respective ports and arrived in Ferrol or A Coruna.

We were significantly reminded of this when , on our walk towards Hospital de Bruma (the hardest stage), desperately in need of a break and refreshment, we came upon the Meson – Museo, Xente no Camino. 

 Walking in hope, more than expectation, this amazing place was a Godsend on a stretch of the route totally lacking facilities, according to published guides. I had learnt of it from a Blog I had read, but as it was not “official” information ,did not want to mention it to my companions. We were given a warm welcome by the owner’s wife, who explained that the idea was that of her husband an archivist and Medieaval historian; she proudly showed us his book, from which all the frescoes decorating the place, were taken. 

   It is easy to take advantage of an obvious need for a stopping place for Pilgrims and locals alike, but to accomplish it in such a sympathetic and unique way, is beyond meritorious; a blessing and a revelation. 
 Chatting to some of the locals there; one of whom had worked in London as a chauffeur for 19 years, before selling up and returning to his beloved Galicia. 

 We were tempted to prolong our stay at this wonderful oasis, but we had some kilometres to kill before our destination, that evening; we all agreed that it would remain in the memory for a long time.

The local Druids, these areas occupied since Neolithic times, believed that the force which commands the world,revolves around four elements; any place which,by magic,brings them together will be a synonym of the wetness
of true freedom, a place where its inhabitants will be happier than anywhere else. Earth, Wind and Fire and Water: the four elements…..We walked past the famous ASANTO shipyards meaning” Shipyards and Workshops of the Northwest”,eventually arriving at Cabanas and its beautiful beach; Roger calls our first refreshments a ” Sharpener” which we enjoyed in a beachside bar, chatting to a locally adopted Tyke, would you believe, whose grandparents had settled there 30 years ago; he felt quite at home, though personally, I find it hard to take seriously anyone who wears a baseball hat back to front. 

 cWe then entered Pontedueme,via the 600 metre long, ancient bridge.Had a very bibulous evening and a fine  dinner in our digs, Hostal Bar Luis. 

 
Walked on towards Betanzos via Mino and up some challenging inclines.A couple of coffee stops provided both relief and sustenance; Hannah’s biscuits had gone down well and Roger had finished a week’s supply already! By chance, in Mino we found ourselves opposite the Turismo, where we were given  good advice and encouragement by Alba. 

 These two days were the most challenging walks I have ever achieved,compensations were the scenery and the never failing cheerfulness of my three compadres,Mac, Derm and Roger, because the tendinitis was now affecting my heel – Solvitur ambulando” – “It is solved by walking” Apparently said by Saint Augustine

He obviously never walked the Camino Ingles! Not that I should have missed it for all the world.All Caminos are unique,this one characterised by the Rias, the forest trails littered with Chestnuts and Acorns, plus the occasional opportunity to do some foraging – that’s a posh term for ” scrumping” -grapes, apples and even figs, overhanging walls. My three fellow Pelegrinos… 

We had a relatively  luxurious stay in Hotel Garelos,where Begonia, the receptionist,was both  garrulous and  charming;  quiet time of year,I think. 

At last we left the Rias behind sadly, and headed ,seemingly never endingly,upwards, taking in  a long stretch of grand vistas,desperately hoping to find a place for refreshment- that proved to be my best kept secret…

  We left A very quiet Ferrol at 08.45 and found our way easily enough, following the excellent signage,walking past shipyards and naval colleges,sometimes bordering the Ria and occasionally along forest tracks, overhung with Eucalyptus trees. 
 Parish church of SamMartin de Xubia, on the site of a 12th century,Benedictine Monastery. We came across sheep grazing on an industrial estate and curious goats on a smallholding. 

 I did struggle with recently acquired Tendinitis in my right calf,blurred by Ibruprofen and Ice spray.

Over motorways and under railways,  the occasional diversion, eventually brought us to our Hotel Kensington,Naron.  

  We received a warm welcome from the owner, who had worked for 16 years in the hotel trade,London and whose English and sense of humour were excellent.Heeven opened the kitchen to provide us with lunch, despite Sunday’s normally being the chef’s day off! Even providing us with a local speciality,a favourite of both and I,Pimientos Padron.Padrón peppers are a variety of peppers from the municipality of Padrón in the province of A Coruña, Galicia, northwestern Spain. These are small peppers, with a color ranging from bright green to yellowish green, and occasionally red.Tradition states  that  every twelfth one is fiery; my first one was!

H

Saturday 26 th and we arrived in Ferrol, the start of our Camino,after a closely coordinated journey,beginning at Wylde Green Station, on the 06.12 to Bham New Street, for the 07.10 to London Euston, thence via Tottenham Hale to Stansted Aitport, for the 11.55 flight to Santiago de Compostela.

Arriving on time, in warm sunshine, we grabbed a quick transfer, by airport bus to Santiago’s bus station,where with 15 minutes to spare we caught the 16.00 Monbus toFerrol,arriving there at 17.45.Ten minute  walk to Hotel Almendra.From where we found a Bar and enjoyed some fine beer!

  We enjoyed an Al Fresco meal and finished a hilarious evening,with a Paxaran, sloe flavoured liqueur. 
Dermot is wondering what it is….

Airvault

The Bus on site .

Having been back a week, a very busy week,have at last found time to reflect on our ten day break in France.It has been four years or more, since we holidayed exclusively in France.Lately, we have just driven through , en route elsewhere. Having studied weather forecasts for the entire country, the Deux Sevres and Dordogne looked the fairest and warmest, within a reasonable day and a half’s drive. There was the other guilty pleasure of seeing vacationers returning to work and school duties, as we sped along and dare I say it relatively child free campsites; so less danger of being mowed down by an exuberant ten year old on a bike, whilst carrying a bowl full of washing up!

France conjures up the usual cliches as figured on The Rough Guide to France, eg Rolling Vineyards * Stately Chateaux *Fine Cuisine – all of which is true. – for me there are other attractions.For example, the road system which allows you to drive anywhere either for free ,or on Toll Autoroutes. I  used to be doggedly against using Tolls, but having driven around Poitiers or Tours,circumnavigating  a dozen traffic islands,I have become more pragmatic and use both.It makes driving in the UK seem like Purgatory…or perhaps, a lottery , because you never know if the M1/M6 / M25 are going to be blocked, 50 mile an hour limited,etc.The same can be said for the Services on the motorways.The Aire at St Valery de Somme, in Picardy is the standout; always stop there as it is designed to fit ecologically into the Somme Valley Landscape. Watford Gap, it is not.

The number and good quality of campsites and Aires, is amazing; we are always discovering new places and finding ourselves saying…” This is the best site we have ever stayed on…..well this year,anyway”.Good hair drying facilities are always appreciated! As is easy access to a nearby town or village,for the daily pleasure of a coffee, buying local produce and a glass of wine. In Beynac ET Cazenac, on the Dordogne, we were lucky to have a restaurant that not only served an ice cold pichet of local white, but brewed its own beer! Both excellent, sitting under the cliffs above on a warm evening.

France is proud of its rivers and they feature heavily in both regional names and as holiday destinations. The Dordogne, where we went canoeing is a classic example.

Must mention, too, the cordiality and politeness of the people, from the local butcher to the Tourist Information.Although, beware of overstatement in local descriptions, as we found in Airvault; this is France of forty years ago,Tranquil, sleepy with one butcher and Coop – both closed because of “Fermeture Annuelle”! – and one Boulangerie, which was open, plus a couple of bars in the newer square.The town guide described Airvault’s attractions and charms, which were fair enoughly put,until I read that the town was  still “dynamic”; Airvault could be described in many ways….but dynamic it is not….thank goodness!

A great, little break typified by the factors described above and warm,sunny weather. We shall plan another trip next year, I am sure,hopefully to find ourselves in another “dynamic” destination.

From Ferrol to Santiago de Compstela

I was frustrated the other evening, trying to put together a few thoughts on the past three weeks or so. Having written a paragraph, it just disappeared ; am I not au fait with this”upgrade”, or is it too quick for its own good? This time I’ ll go backwards in time & see if it works out. Today was a picnic at The National Trust site,Baddesley Clinton, with Tom,Vickee, Jude and Martha; we enjoyed a peaceful walk around the estate, followed by a picnic – the ducks left us alone for the most part! Super weather ; idyllic place.

The loss of out Brother – In – Law, Don had dominated our thoughts; his funeral, last Tuesday in Shrewsbury was well attended and a fitting farewell to a lovely man, who suffered a terrible illness with great dignity and the indomitable support of Penny, his wife and my sister.

We had a quiet celebration for Barbara’s birthday, in Berkhamsted and enjoyed some pleasant weather, in the company of Nelly,Dan and grandsons Tom & Jake.

On Tuesday of this week,I underwent a CT Thorax+Abdo+Pelvis with contrast .part of annual follow-up.As usual, it went smoothly – hope to hear nothing as a consequence!

Have to mention meet up with Mac,Dermot & Roger,( bro-in-law), for our only planning meeting with regard to our Camino Ingles, beginning 26th September. Lots of laughs and a few reminders – augurs well…..

The WordPress Site has upgraded and has become needlessly ,I think,over-complicated’.Will now try to load a photo,which used to be a simple enough process.Will try to get my head round it because it has changed radically. leaving the beautiful Rab Island tomorrow,bound for a Spa town,25 miles North of Zagreb.

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Hannah in Rovinj on her birthday.

The WordPress Site has upgraded and has become needlessly

,I think,over-complicated’.Will now try to load a photo,which used to be a simple enough process.Will try to get my head round it because it has changed radically.

leaving the beautiful Rab Island tomorrow,bound for a Spa town,25 miles North of Zagreb.

From 5th  and up to 10th July. Left Dover for Dunkirk close to midnight.Then onward and around the dreaded Brussels Ring Road,without any delay as it was 3 am! Power nap and breakfast ( traditional cold,coked sausages,hard boiled eggs from home ) on a motorway service station.Continued the journey around 8 am and it was […]

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