What matters most, in fact, is getting from one stage to the next !
That’s by way of an explanation for my next , short Camino, beginning this W/end , from Lugo, on the Primitivo, joining the Frances at Melide. The anticipation is all the greater because I am walking this Camino in the company of my sister,Penny and my brother, Matt. Their first CAMINO ….and I hope they enjoy it. They both have physical factors to take into account and so we are hoping to get our packs transported every day, by the Correos – Spanish Post Office. Therefore , a confession that for the purpose of family solidarity, I have changed from the ensuitepilgrim, to the Turigrino, so I found Cousineau’s quotation , both apt and justifying…as if I was really bothered about self- justification, after all, I carry a bag, 24 hours a day. But, seriously, look away now if it’s too much detail, on my last Camino, the Via de la Plata, I experienced problems with either the rucksack or bum – bag straps pressing on my Stoma, causing abrasion and bleeding. That was quite disconcerting, because blood in the urine is extremely worrying. So, to Lugo we go ; the logistics are as usual complex. Penny and I take a National Express coach down to Gatwick, leaving Birmingham coach station at midnight , arriving at the airport by 4 am. Our flight to Santiago de Compostela is at 6 am. On arrival,we should make our way to Lugo, by coach.
I say “should “because Spanish bus websites are like Alice in Wonderland and it is very difficult to make your way through them. The good news is that the weather forecast is good and we should be able to enjoy walking the walls , for which the city is famous, not forgetting to collect our two ” sellos” – stamps in our Pilgrim Passports. In Galicia, to obtain a Credencial on completing your Camino, you must have two stamps per day, en route.
Penny and Matt have been training very seriously and I hope I shall be able to keep up with them, especially as I am far more advanced in years than them!🚶🏽 Our first stage is the longest and one of only two days we shall be on the Camino Primitivo, for at Melide we join the Camino Frances, which will be akin to leaving a country lane and changing to a motorway; I anticipate it will be a good deal busier than the Primitivo, but for Penny and Matt, it will still be novel.

We actually walk a little beyond Retorta to Ferreira, to the Albergue, which has an excellent reputation and had to be booked by E- Mail direct, rather than through Bookings.com., which I used for all our other accommodation along the way. Again Albergues are an essential feature of all the Caminos and though I usually avoid them, on this section of the Primitivo, it was a good opportunity for Penny and Matt to sample . A communal dinner and breakfast is included.
Matt is flying to S de C, from Amsterdam and we shall meet up with him in Lugo.
Now I shall make the final pack, including a ” daypack”, big enough for IPad and all items of value and especially, the confectionery that Hannah has made, for our coffee break sugar rush.
” …the rewards of the Camino are uncertain, but the effort and pain and fatigue are for sure.” So, here’s to our first, refreshing Tinto Verano.

Lunch in Marlow, at the invitation of very old friends. In the evening, we had aperitifs at Porters, a trendy bar on Berko High St. Then back for a somewhat gargantuan BBQ, some of which made for lunch, the next day.
Tuesday was taken up with a ten mile circular walk, along the Grand Union Canal to Tring Station, then on into the quintessential , English village of Aldbury – Post Office and two pubs, not too chocolate boxy. We loved its old cottsges and duck pond. Not to mention the Victorian Stocks.
Next morning we were bound for Navarre and Abrizu, where the weather forecasts were optimistic and the air a little cooler. Great drive, over 1545 metres at some point! I was told the views were fantastic; couldn’t say that of the hairpins! Abrizu was a pretty village, festooned with all shades of Perlagoniums, from balconies and window boxes. The campsite proved to be another gem and was ensconced within a horseshoe of hills and mountains.

Staying on the Municipal Parque de Campismo, by the river Nabao; good place , only spoilt occasionally by the unsupervised screaming of bare- arsed infants, whose capacity to swear, from the age of 18 months, was most impressive. These ” itinerant es” , claim to come from Essex, though the accent is not one ever deployed by Ian Dury! I suppose there is an Essex link with the preferred evening wear of black dress, revealing pink bra straps . They all have the most impressive caravans and vehicles on the site. The men disappear early and were overheard this morning ” 1100 Euros.. Fatima ” – I don’t think they were selling rosary beads. Still, leaving such distractions aside, an informative and impressive morning was spent climbing up to the Castelo de Tomar and the adjoining Convento de Christo, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
It has been a very enjoyable two days in this, one of Portugal’s most historic cities. Final Super Bock in the Plaza de Republica, the back to grill some Chicken Piri Piri. Tomorrow, a 229 mile drive to the Algarve, aiming to arrive at Quarteria by lunchtime.
Picos it was not meant to be. On arriving st Santander, the weather was misty and damp, so we headed south.But before that a word or two on the Crossing from Plymouth to Santander. The crossing was smooth and arrival was punctual. However, we were not prepared for the ” entertainment”, on board, which ranged from Music quiz and a magician to a Supremes lookalike act! We did manage to watch the Mens’ Final and later, the European Championship Final. A good value breakfast was enjoyable and by midday, the coast of Northern Spain was visible, as we celebrated Han’s birthday; she was very pleased with her watch and enjoyed an impromptu burst of ” Happy Birthday”, from a jolly group on the next table.
A pleasant surprise, just the other day, when I received a donation of a£100.00 to the Cancer Relief Fund, from a former colleague; glad I hadn’t closed down the Just Giving account.


There are clusters of palm trees,and alongside the river, nearby, Tamarisks and Holm Oak trees. The campsite is 2/3 full and the Dutch are in the ascendancy – find a good campsite and you will find the Cloggies! There are far more Dutch motorhomers now, until recently, they were caravanners and campers. This is a very pleasant site; excellent for families, too, with a well designed pool area, supermarket and choice of two restaurants, one of which specialises in sea food – dining there tonight.
