ensuitepilgrim's Blog

Good drive to here,yesterday. Left some misty weather behind as we got South of Porto. 35* ,but breezy. Tomar is on the Camino from Lisbon and is a lovely town, easily walked and enjoyed. There was a film set in the Praca de Republica, but it had gone by this morning, revealing what a gem it is ,with the beautiful church, dedicated to St John the Baptist.

Staying on the  Municipal Parque de Campismo, by the river Nabao; good place , only spoilt occasionally by the unsupervised screaming of bare- arsed infants, whose capacity to swear, from the age of 18 months, was most impressive. These ” itinerant es” , claim to come from Essex, though the accent is not one ever deployed by Ian Dury! I suppose there is an Essex link with the preferred evening wear of black dress, revealing pink bra straps . They all have the most impressive caravans and vehicles on the site. The men disappear early and were overheard this morning ” 1100 Euros.. Fatima ” – I don’t think they were selling rosary beads. Still, leaving such distractions aside, an informative and impressive morning was spent climbing up to the Castelo de Tomar and the adjoining Convento de Christo, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The  Castle is a fine example of Templar architecture of great historic and cultural significance.

The castle was part of the defence system created by the Templar Knights to secure the border of the Christian Kingdom against the Moors and remained a major stronghold for nearly two centuries during the Middle Ages. Later it played a significant part in the New World explorations of the 15th Century, led by one of the Order’s most famous grand masters, Henry the Navigator.

The Convento de Cristo Tomar is one of the key points of interest within the castle walls and boasts a unique mix of architecture spanning some five centuries. This is a place where gothic, renaissance and Moorish architecture sit side by side and combine with breath-taking results. The famous round church, located behind the keep, also dates back to the late 12th Century and was modelled after the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem. It is characterised by its domed roof and bell tower and is a major feature of the castle skyline. The views are breathtaking,too.

And….Henry the Navigator was one of the order’s most famous grand masters. The Prince devoted much of the Order’s finances to fund his 15th Century explorations, securing the Order’s place in the history books. It was also the location of the formation of the Iberian Union in 1581, when Philip II of Spain was also recognised as Philip I of Portugal. The Union lasted until 1640 and it was during this time that the aqueduct was built.

Also…Key sights of interest at the Convent include its majestic entrance; the beautiful murals and sculptures of the charola; the 16th Century Manueline nave; the eight cloisters; the ornate janela, or window; the cross of the Order of Christ; and the armillary sphere, emblem of King Manuel I and of Portugal itself.

Tomar is home to the oldest Synagogue in Portugal, restored from its use as a store, when the Jews were expelled from Tomar; there are now only two Jewish families, one of which runs the synagogue as a museum, supported by donations of artefacts, from around the world .

The river is a feature of the town and is a natural division between the old town in the west and newer development to the east.

It has been a very enjoyable two days in this, one of Portugal’s most historic cities. Final Super Bock in the Plaza de Republica, the back to grill some Chicken Piri Piri. Tomorrow, a 229 mile drive to the Algarve, aiming to arrive at  Quarteria by lunchtime.

Originally Diana do…dedicated by the Romans, this understated city has been a joy to visit; whether wandering through narrow lanes, or enjoying the Squares and monuments. I love ports, and V do C still has an important role, though not as great as its heyday. No tourist tat and appropriate , commercial development, means it retains its charm and attractiveness.

Human settlement in the region of Viana began during the Mesolithic era, from discoveries and archaeological excavations. Even around the Roman occupation the area was settled along the Mount of Santa Luzia.
The settlement of Viana da Foz do Lima, which it was called when King Afonso III of Portugal issued a foral (charter) on 18 July 1258, was a formalization of the 1253 Viana that the area was named.
In the 16th century, its port gained great importance as one of the entry-points for Portuguese explorers and traders, involved in the Portuguese discoveries. Many of the historical buildings originated during this period.
The prosperity that continued developed from the town’s role as a port, protected by defensive structures (such as the Tower of Roqueta) to repel pirates from Galicia and north Africa. The port’s ties to northern Europe came primarily from exports of wine, fruits and salt, and imports of tile, textiles and glass.
After the maritime discoveries and trade, the commercial life of Viana reached its greatest proportions during the reign of Queen Maria II of Portugal, when the monarch established the Associação Comercial de Viana do Castelo in 1852 (the fourth oldest public company of its type). The queen, in order to reward the loyalty of its citizens, who did not surrender to the Count of Antas, elevated the town to the status of city on 20 January 1848, renaming the settlement with its current name.
During the dictatorial regime, Viana do Castelo was one of the most important ports of the Portuguese cod fisheries.

An example of the latter, O Navio Gil Eannes, a hospital ship ,is preserved on the quayside. Built in Viana , in 1955, with what must have been at the time, state of the art equipment, this ship serviced the fishing fleets , harvesting Cod , as far away as Newfoundland; acting as a hospital, supplier and occasional ice- breaker. It was fascinating to be able to visit , below decks, the surgeries, X-ray theatre and wards. The wine store, bakery and kitchen, plus the sailors’ quarters have been preserved. In the bowels of the ship, the engine room was fascinating, with parts from Chicago and Middlesex! A unique experience and to think it almost perished in the breakers’ yards in the Port of Lisbon.

High on my list , was a ride on the funicular that takes you up to Santa Luzia; a landmark that towers over the city.

The church is of recent construction , in the revivalist style, completed in the 20 th century, at the behest of a wealthy soldier, grateful for a cure from near destructive illness. The views from the top are panoramic, described as the third greatest viewpoint in the world by National Geographic Magazine.

This Sunday morning , the Avenida ( Main Street ) was given over to a line of Classic Cars, nearly all Portuguese owned and featuring a car I should love to drive, aTriumph TR 3.

However, I just had to settle for my earlier navigation stance , on the hospital ship.

Viana was one of my stops, when I walked solo, along the coast, from Porto to Santiago de Compostela, three years ago and it was interesting to find some of the way marks and sights of this long established , but little walked Camino. Of especial interest was the 15 th century Pilgrim Hospital.

There are a number of well preserved civic buildings, palaces and churches. The Turismo provided an English guide to most of them.

We enjoyed a great sample of Portuguese cooking at the campsite restaurant and the pulpo salad went down agreeably with a bottle of Vinho Verde. Bottoms Up!

So, farewell Viana, tomorrow a 300 mile drive South to the majestic and historic city of Evora ( last visited 40 years ago ) , en route for the Algarve.

Picos it was not meant to be. On arriving st Santander, the weather was misty and damp, so we headed south.But before that a word or two on the Crossing from Plymouth to Santander. The crossing was smooth and arrival was punctual. However, we were not prepared for the ” entertainment”, on board, which ranged from Music  quiz and a magician to a Supremes lookalike act! We did manage to watch the Mens’ Final and later, the European Championship Final. A good value breakfast was enjoyable and by  midday, the coast of Northern Spain was visible, as we celebrated Han’s birthday; she was very pleased with her watch and enjoyed an impromptu burst of ” Happy Birthday”, from a jolly group on the next table.

Tordesillas was reached easily enough, along mainly deserted motorways.

Because of its important highway connections Tordesillas has become a major transit hub. The economy is based on services — especially connected to tourism — and the agricultural production of the surrounding area. Wheat has long been the traditional agricultural product

Fourth visit to this campsite, over the years and it never fails to feel welcome , well organised and…..sunny! The Plaza ayor is a treat, and traditional in its design; three corners given to cafes and little traffic. There was the unlikely shadow of controversy over shadowing the town, this year. The town is known for its Toro de la Vega festival during which a bull was slaughtered by people on horseback and on foot. Animal rights groups repeatedly tried to stop this from taking place. The bull is at least 5 years old when he’s killed and is allow to live in a large property to keep him territorial, unlike other animals who are killed for the butcher at 1 year of age. Finally, in May 2016 the Regional government issued a decree prohibiting to slaughter the bull in public; animal rights activists regarded it as a victory after years denouncing publicly the cruelty with great national and worldwide coverage. The mayor of the town, backed unanimously by the opposition, made a statement of outrage the same day of the prohibition. The bull slaughter had came to be inextricably associated with the name of the town, overshadowing the rich monumental and historical heritage.

Now, for the next stage of the holiday; on to Viana do Castelo, Portugal.

R

The weeks building up to departure, on Sunday 10 th July , have been a mixture of Looking after grandchildren, working on the allotment and back garden. Mixed in with visit from old college friends, two friends’ birthday celebrations  and receiving positive news  of a recent blood test. A purchase of an up to date Map of Spain and Portugal, together with a new camping guide, thereto. At different times, weather forecasts have been sought and a range of itineraries devised, depending on the weather, when we disembark at Santander. Hopefully as pictured.

It has become a tradition that I burn a cd for friends’ birthdays and I was pleased to be able to compile, Case, Lang and Viers , with Jeff Lynne – an unlikely amalgam.

Nothing I enjoy more than rhymes, stories and poems shared with the grandchildren , on the I-pad, or ” real books”,whether it’s Michael Rosen or The Runaway Train!

There have been practical matters to attend to,like taking out the portable bike from the ” bus” and reminding myself how it folds out…..and back.

A pleasant surprise, just the other day, when I received a donation of a£100.00 to the Cancer Relief Fund, from a former colleague; glad I hadn’t closed down the Just Giving account.

Health wise, I was pleased that a recent blood test was all clear, two years on and have never felt more that growing older is both a privilege and a bonus. Impetus given then to possible destinations in Spain; will it be Potes in the Picos de Europa , or the coast near A Coruna and most importantly that wherever we reach on Monday 11 th July, there is a good restaurant to celebrate Hannah’s birthday.

I have been enjoying two diaries of an ex-pat in Spain.” Spanish Journals, The Posthumous Diaries of an ExPat”, by A R Lowe . A genuine curmudgeon , often politically incorrect…but , at times, unknowingly funny and I mean laugh aloud funny! Especially, his attempts to give English lessons to the locals. His star pupil insists on learning the language through translations of his favourite, Country & Western Standards. A Bientot.

A consequence  of the Cancer Research Fund Raiser was the interest shown by my sister, Penny and latterly, my brother Matt, to walk a Camino. For a variety of reasons, work and family, it was to be a short walk. So, I devised a 101 Km promenade from Lugo to Santiago de Compostela. This would give us two stages on the Camino Primitivo , the remainder on the Camino Frances. Ensuring that we get two Sellos ( local stamps ) in our Pilgrim Passports, per day, would qualify us to receive a Compostela ( official certificate ) from the Pilgrims’ office in S de. C. We are walking this September.

The flights, transfers are booked. Penny & I down to Gatwick , by National Express and Matt flying to Santiago from Amsterdam; he resides in Holland. We then take a bus to Lugo, which looks like a really interesting place. All the accommodation is reserved , as usual. The only difference to my previous Caminos will be the use of the Spanish Correos’ luggage transfer system , devised for the Caminos. For the princely  sum of € 20.00 each, we get 5 transfers from lodging to lodging. This is necessitated for reasons  of dodgy shoulders and for myself, to avoid undue strain on my Stoma. So, in a sense, I shall still be carrying my bag ! We finish with a non walking day in Santiago, which should enable Penny and Matt to take in some of the sights  ( and bars ), especially the Museo das Peregrinacions  and the Pilgrims’ Mass in the cathedral.

There will doubtless be time to do a little shopping; me….pins and a T shirt. Notwithstanding the fact that I shall be wearing my E U pin, more proudly than ever, since the debacle of a referendum, we have  just suffered.

Now they have won and what Kipling said of the demagogues of his age applies to Michael Gove, Boris Johnson and Nigel Farage.

I could not dig; I dared not rob:
Therefore I lied to please the mob.
Now all my lies are proved untrue
And I must face the men I slew.
What tale shall serve me here among
Mine angry and defrauded young?

Taken from Nick Cohen’s  article , Observer, 26/06/2016

By the time we finish our mini Camino,we may not recognise what we had left behind,albeit, temporarily. Buen Camino?” Little England ” will need one….

Costa Daurada, literally, the Golden Coast, takes its name from the colour of its sand when the sun is shining. At such times, its beaches are reminiscent of gold.

There are clusters of palm trees,and alongside the river, nearby, Tamarisks and Holm Oak trees. The campsite is 2/3 full and the Dutch are in the ascendancy – find a good campsite and you will find the Cloggies! There  are far more Dutch motorhomers now, until recently, they were caravanners and campers. This is a very pleasant site; excellent for families, too, with a well designed pool area, supermarket and choice of two restaurants, one of which specialises in sea food – dining there tonight.

The area around the site, apart from the beach, is made up of quite classy villas and apartments, mainly Spanish owned; as in everywhere else on the Spanish Med, a good number of “en vende” signs. Cambrils is worth a day, harbour with a small fishing fleet and good, pedestrianised streets. It is well known for its cuisine, too.

This short break has been mainly for relaxing and in the evening, we have found a couple of super watering holes, for an evening aperitif.

One more, full day tomorrow, Saturday.Will walk into Cambrils, for the morning. A route back is planned to bypass Barcelona, by travelling across, via Zaragoza and Pamplona, to somewhere past Bayonne, hopefully. That will be on Sunday. It’s always more enjoyable to take a different route and given the flooding in the Paris region, we should have had to make a diversion, anyway. Having overcome the fuel problems, the uncertain weather, let us hope we can avoid floodwater and the possibility of Strikes!

“A journey is like marriage. The certain way to be wrong is to think you control it.” – John Steinbeck

Been flying the flag, whilst away ; not on a flagpole, but on the dashboard of the bus, whilst driving and on the table, when on site. Have been keeping up with the  Brexit misinformation machinations ; una cargo de mierda !

This was the scenario for the rest of the trip….weather forecasts….sorry to be so British and fixated about the weather , but they led us to believe that the Costa Brava was a done deal. Not so; sunny and warm till early afternoon, then cloud and rain.

Pity, because Sant Pere Pescador and this site, Camping Riu, together, make an excellent base.See above, because sometimes WordPress has a way of its own!

We bought a local walk guide and followed a couple of trails; one to the beach , the other alongside the River Fluvia. Flat …which was a bonus and well signposted.

Evenings and early mornings ( Hannah’s photos ) were worthy…..and the rainbows.

Although we were content with the town and the site , the weather forecasts, for once proving to be accurate and there was an unseemly amount of rain about…Beautuful mornings, then wet afternoons . Always able to BBQ in the evening, often in glorious sunshine.

Come Tuesday, we decided to have a trip , using local buses, to Girona; 20 plus years since we were there. Really lovely city, lots of student life, magnificent Cathedral and a friendly atmosphere. Sunny, too, making the walk along the city walls and views, even more memorable. ( Again, see right above )

Weather forecasts not good…never consistent; sometimes wonder if they are on the same planet. So, we are off to the Costa Dorada, tomorrow…Cambrils, where we have stayed before and at least ,most forecast sites were 🌞 It’ s just that I can sit in the bus, on my drive in dull, or wet weather ; I just want to be able to replicate my stance on the lounger, above. Book, magazine, coffee….simple stuff. Possibly a Tinto Verano, but only after 6 pm!🍷

So 153 miles South; wasn’t planned but, what’s a Motorhome for ?

” Bizarre travel plans are a dancing lesson from God ” Kurt Vonnegut.

The plan was use the Peage motorways( don’t usually )
Reasons of time
Scares about fuel strikes in France
Nearly Germany, but the bullet and stuck to our plans.
Bit the bullet – 2 20 L containers of diesel + 5
55mins late from Dover to Calais
Drove in misty conditions on Mway towards Paris .
Good progress. Early Paris rush hour Peripheral slow in places , kept moving
First stop South of Paris on A10; topped up fuel, no problem, no queues
Sausage/ eggs breakfast, coffee – a tradition!☕️
Moved on South of Orleans , next stop sleep + fuel

Eventually joined the A75 free motorway to Beziers
Brilliant Mway, Auvergne , Cantal depts – scenery , hills, causse,
and you had to drive it; ascents of 1100 metres, in places.
Great engineering.

Millau crossing ; lunch, with great views of hilltop town.
Four fillups in total – no queues, no limits, despite all the scare stories.
Eventually arrived at La Grangefort, near Issoire.
Quirky folly, Dutch owners for 31 years, improving
Meal on the terrace – earnt it!

Early start rural, then back on Mway

Peage re started at Beziers. Busy, trouble free across Pyrenees , into Spain
Followed campsite Riu directions thru San Pedro Pescador
Good job, Siesta time, as it was vet narrow, in places.
Crossed River Fluvia to the site . Spacious pitch. Entrance to riverside walk opposite

Walked to supermarket

Drink on terrace and BBQ

Glad we made it!

They say that Madrid is a city that never sleeps. As Mac & I made our way down the Calle Atocha, at 6 am, this morning, we witnessed hordes of young people, in all manner of states – euphoric, exhausted, noisy and boisterous – unthreatening. I was even more glad for the double strength windows in our hotel room, which overlooked this popular thoroughfare – didn’t hear a thing. A final glass of Pacharan , in the hotel bar ,may have helped. Less than 24 hours in this great, capital city, but time enough to enjoy the lively area around us, especially, Plaza Sta Ana. Returning , we came across a  dramatic sculpture, recognising the fate of 35 citizens, assassinated, during the civil war. A sobering sight. The journey home was smooth enough, having navigated  the Madrid Metro system, to reach Barajas Airport, in time for a final Desayuno.

I was relieved to finish this section of the Camino, mainly because a lot of family and friends had been so generous with their sponsorship.Muchas Gracias. This section of the Via de la Plata, from Caceres to Zamora ( particularly after wet weather ) , is challenging in different ways – long stretches without any place of refreshment. Few places to sit down and take a break; except for the ground, and after entering Castille y Leon, wide ranges of monotonous landscape – mainly cereals and grazing. Even the snow- capped mountains were soon left behind. Apart from the many Spings and stretches of floodwater, the surfaces were good to the feet ( fine grit & sand ) and the Camino, well signposted. Of course, my view could have been clouded by the days of miserable weather . However, I should not recommend it for first-timers. Compensations came by way of the companionship of other pilgrims and the gracious, friendly welcome received in bars, cafes and places we stayed.

The Via de la Plata has brought some investment and revitalisation, to some of these lonely Pueblos , with locals offering accommodation in restored houses and farms – highly recommended as essential alternatives ( for me ), to Albergues, which can be found there , too.

The government, with EU help, has improved the road infrastructure and high speed train lines are bring built.These are breathtaking constructions .

The history of the Camino and the dedicated sites, especial to St James and his devoted Pelegrinos, are well represented along the way and in different forms.

“Walking the Camino you can make yourself miserable or strong. But the amount of walking will be still the same.” That was a quotation, I found, somewhere and was very appropriate for this Camino. There is also another, Spanish ,saying, which goes some way to describing the attitude of pilgrims, both to those who look after them, feed and direct them… and to each other :-

– “El peregrino no exige , agradece. ”

There are moments and times when I should have reminded myself of that and what a privilege it was, nevertheless , to walk this Way.

Translation – A pilgrim doesn´t demand , he´s grateful.

Amen to that !

🎇🕯🎇

The end of this stage. A city I have never visited before, too tired to do it much justice, this evening, but look forward to visiting it again. As you walk in to the city, as we did, from the South, there was a pleasant walk alongsidecan extremely full and fast flowing River Duero ( Zamora was flooded last week ). The cathedral, set against the sky, above the cliffs and walls, gives an impregnable impression ; entrance into the old town is made across a Roman bridge.( PS It is “Romanic”, not Romantic )

I shall write this retrospectively and seek to enliven what is actually a great deal of monotonous walking – fields of cereals and grazing land stretching way across to the horizon; with  an occasional vineyard .Castille Y Leon is fairly daunting , in that there is nowhere on the Camino to sit and rest…except the floor!

Having to stop and apply some  ” Voltaren Emugel”, to a troublesome calf, I had to recourse to the Armco Barriers ( thank you Mac, for pointing that out )…Excuse my back!

That embrocation was most effective ; apply three times a day. No problems with feet or boots.I underestimated the unseasonable weather, but the Poncho was a boon on the cold, wet stretch from Cubo de la Tierra del Vino  to Villenueva de Campean. There were very few cafes on any of the stages,but when we did find one, the welcome was always warm. This little place, newly established and not yet in any of the guide books, was a case in point. Tea and cakes , in a beautiful setting.

We had a conversation via Siri, Google Translate – Mac, much amused.

Our final stop before Caceres, was in La Posada del Buen Camino; an authentically restored house, in this small Pueblo. Home cooked dinner, which we shared with three other Pelegrinos and wonderful Zamora d o c vino tinto.

As always, it was heartwarming to get Hannah’s photos of three of the grandchildren, just to remind me what I ‘m missing….

Now for a short stroll around Zamora, aperitifs and dinner. It has been a tough Camino, at times, but we have met some very interesting people and with Mac’s unfailing sense of humour, managed to leave most places and people with a smile on both theirs and our faces.