ensuitepilgrim's Blog

Mac is having a rest day and so I left our base at 08.30. Great place and situation.

Passed by a tiny chapel and began a 30 minute ascent towards a wind farm on the ridge above.

Bonus being sunshine, but clouds and mists to come.

The Primitivo is already quite different to any Caminos I have walked before,mainly the mountains, the ups and inevitable downs. Silence and stillness.

Being above a cloudline is quite exhilarating it also a little mystifying.

There had been serious Forest fires here in 2016 and the burn out was still visible whilst descending towards the Embalse.Lower down, after nearly an hour’s descent, the first views of the Embalse ( artificial lake )

The track downwards was in good condition and not nearly as challenging as some.

Finally, as the mist cleared the Embalse came in to view.

This dam is now 65 years old and took thousands of man hour in its construction – abandoned buildings close by were the dwellings of the workers as most materials, mainly concrete, had to be made in situ.Also, several villages were evacuated to facilitate the dam’s construction – it is 35 km in length.‘

I am not a Graffiti fan but I was taken by this little inscription- always in my heart – that says a lot about the Camino.Three and a half hours’ walking and this gem of a hotel was a welcome stop for coffee on its balcony.An Americano and one of Hannah’s cakes never tasted better.

It was a further 7 km, mainly uphill to Grandas da Salime, quiet place which owed its existence to the Camino Primitivo and to some extent still does.Hard to believe I walked across the trail over there.‘

Yesterday afternoon,only a few hundred metres from La Pola, Mac had a fall on the path. At first he thought it was just superficial bruising to his knee and shoulder,with some pain in his left wrist. However, over night the wrist had swollen and the knee was a little more painful.

Therefore, I made enquiries at our hotel about a Doctor.

We were directed to the local medical centre, fortunately only a 100 metres away!

After having ID and European medical card checked he was seen quite quickly by a doctor. I went in with him to help a little with translation.

Mac was examined and then referred to the nearest hospital at Cangas de Narcea. He was given a referral note, with a brief description of the problems and told to go to the” Urgencias” department.

I settled our hotel bill and the barmaid directed us to the nearby taxi rank which was situated by a striking monument to Emigrantes.

No driver, but a passing,elderly lady rang the taxi number and within a minute the driver extricated himself from the cafe and drove us to hospital – another Camino angel.

A winding journey of about 25 km brought us to Cangas, maybe it was the dull overhead weather conditions, it seemed a drab if busy place.

The relatively new hospital is situated on the due of the town.

After handing in the referral letter, we had barely sat down when Mac was summoned by a nurse.

An hour and a half later,after several X-Rays on his knee and wrist,MAC emerged with a knee bandaged and the wrist strapped with an external steel plate. The former to be discarded when we can obtain an elastic bandage and the latter to be kept on for ten days.

The halo is permanent apparently.

The whole process- two consultations in two different locations,including a taxi ride took two and a half hours – impressive Spanish health service.

Hospital receptionist saved me the bother of telephoning a taxi and within five minutes we were off to La Mesa and Albergue Miguelin- after another day off Mac is still determined to press on. Ultreia!

The taxi took us a great speed over the mountain pass – decent photos even as we were on the move.

This is a private Albergue mostly restored with the help of an EU grant. The bar/restaurant is popular for lunch with local workers.

The overall Trip Advisor rating is 9.4!

Not hard to see why.

 From the film ‘”The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel”

“Everything will be all right in the end… if it’s not all right then it’s not yet the end”

There are two approaches to Pola de Allende from Tineo,which in times gone by was felt to be so difficult to get to that the most favoured route was by way of the mountains. Long abandoned Pilgrim hospitals bear witness to this – now called the ” Hospitales” route.

However, since then another lowered route was founded and this was the way we sauntered to Pola de Allende. Two main reasons – recent wet weather would have made descents very tricky, Plus it’s an isolated track – 14.2 km with no infrastructure.

Thankful for a dry if chilly start we made our way out towards the Camino taking a short taxi ride to an obvious starting point.

Oak and Pine trees, plentiful birdsong – well placed stepping stones.

Passing a tiny chapel dedicated to San Roque – a great favourite in Spain.

This enormous hoarding was placed on an isolated track and encouraged thoughts of much needed coffee – we were to be surprised by so much more on arrival.

MAC asked the owner, José, what time the Disco started – this was the most extraordinary galaxy of lights and flags festooned from every part of the ceiling. The range of goods and CAMINO related nicknacks was astonishing and we could not have asked for a more entertaining and humorous host, whose English was excellent.

He insisted on taking photos of us – with Emilio from The Canaries – both inside and outside the bar.

He had his own design made for the Camisetas and I could not resist- the actual quality is excellent – although I shall doubtless be required to off load a couple of old t- shirts as a consequence!

We pressed on through more forest, passing bee hives and enjoying the views.

The descent was over 300 metres and steep in places. Freshly placed signposts,too.

Pola is an attractive little place located on the steep banks of the River Nison .

The above photo shows a memorial to emigrants – the Indianos ” – were some who returned from the Americas with their fortunes and investing in the town, building some luxurious residences.

Our hotel overlooks the river and is a very friendly,old fashioned place – some unfashionable wet bits hopefully drying out in our room – been promised an exceptional Asturian dinner tonight.

Ponchos on, we left the square and gulped at the information board and began our first climb of the day.

The temperature was 8* when we started out from the hotel.

The Camino today was going to be mainly along wooded paths,sometimes clinging to the side of the mountain as we were sometimes clinging to the fences to avoid the mud. Heavy rain showers were to exacerbate what are generally pretty wet ways.

The Albergue at Bodenaya wasn’t open so no coffee, but a reminder on the wall about how far there was to walk.

At La Espina we found a welcome shelter from the rain. An automated self service Pelegrino Parada with coffee machine and a vending facility from which you could buy everything from a sandwich to a Camino Primitivo T-Shirt! Greatly appreciated. Could not resist these photos.

Two contrasting buildings. One an ancient hermitage site and almost next door, a bungalow with a difference.

Because of the rain and cloud cover over the valley and mountains, not many opportunities for photos. Occasional glimpses of the sun, but I was struck by this barn door!

Tineo was a very important Pilgrim stop in the Middle Ages and the views are impressive.

It does have an impressive Town Hall Square.

Tomorrow is set to be another challenging day, not least because of the weather which if the forecast is correct, then part of the initial climb involved is not advisable in poor conditions.We shall see. Meanwhile the boots are drying out in the laundry room after our young host provided us with some cleaning aids. She was impressed by our efforts to sweep up the mud we brought in.

Superb breakfast at Hotel Areces and we bade a warm farewell to Antonio and his wife. We quickly found the Camino and set off with some trepidation as the guide book told of inclines…We passed an old pump, a fountain and a cross, not untypical on a Camino I know, but they all have a special history and place.

The first climb was a long one, cobwebs and dog roses,vistas and Asturias Horreos which are larger than those of Galicia.,

My attention was taken by some unusual vegetation which was very attractive to bees and butterflies.

We were pleasantly surprised then to come across a Donativo drinks station – this is where someone local, sympathetic to Pelegrinos leaves out drinks and snacks and payment is by donation. We met two pelegrinas from the Veneto and the Argentinian lady who sets up the station, daily, with her daughter. She and her husband bought the place a while back and renovated it themselves.

We moved on to Cornellana and walked past its nearly 1000 year old monastery, in need of the promised TLC and as we looked back we were able to understand its size and past significance in the area.

A butterfly and wall climbing roses.

A typical Asturian farmhouse with its adjacent Horreos.

Fountains and bridges, all with information as to when they were built or renovated seem to be commonplace on the Primitivo. Intriguing doorways and a nearby window with a shell motif.

Soon we were in sight of Salas,and after sharing the view with some local livestock we reached our hotel for the night – a former palace of the Valdés family who founded Oviedo University,Castillo de Valdés-Salas. It also houses a small museum. The rooms are grouped around a courtyard, in which we were unable to recline because the rain swept in. We had been fortunate to have had reasonable conditions for our walk,however.

Aperitifs and dinner in Bar La Campa, served by an eccentric, hyper active lady, who forgot to give us knives and forks in her rush to go round in circles, but who did eventually serve us a decent bottle of wine. House Special Salad was muy bien.

Overnight bus to Gatwick. 06.00 flight to S de C. Half day in the city before taking a coach on Sunday morning to Oviedo, from whence we went to Grado, after a futile attempt to get a ” sello ” for our Pilgrim passport, I e Credencial. Long journeys but not a problem when you have done it a couple of times before.

On arriving at S de C, first Camino signs on the stairs from arrivals…

At our hotel ,De La Salle, where we have stayed before, there were obvious signs of improvement- and it remains a great value stopover.

How many times have I walked about this amazing city? Always a new Calle, or square.

Students receiving their degrees with a simple shawl. On to aperitifs and dinner. S de C remains great value for your Euro if you look around. Some great dressing up and Casa Manolo was good fun.

Next leg was the coach to Oviedo. Rarely do you go directly anywhere on ALSA buses, they serve remote towns and go along routes that your Satnav would not suggest. We went north to La Coruña before heading East to Oviedo and over the mountains some fog.

After reaching Oviedo, a big city, we made for the Cathedral wanting our first stamp, sello, from there – Sunday and the Basilica was shut! Luckily, Mac Spotted the Cathedral bar nearby and we got a great stamp there – then the bus to Grado.

We found our hotel Areces, with the assistance of a Chinese mum and daughter who insisted on taking us to the door – Camino Angels exist – Areces is only a year old and run by Antonio and his wife – great hosts; superb location.

Being in the region of Asturias, cider is the drink – in Oviedo there are streets dedicated to it. Here, we found Cafe Express, a little distance away from the square where live music was playing as part of a local fiesta – something to do with Spring – sheltered from booming bass notes, Sidra was ordered and whilst menus were perused took in the unlikely scenes of Spanish grandmothers pretending to be complimentary about their friends’ perms whilst they played, would you believe….Ludo? Great food, too. Even if it did come all at once!

En route back to the hotel, we were impressed by the stage show – so professional and very loud. Fortunately our host Antonio had forewarned us abou the din and provided ear plugs.

Great breakfast at Areces and then the Camino really begins…. a little longer in distance than the guide books stated as we were to find out. Mac reckoned the music went on until well after 02.00. I never heard a thing after closing the shutters. Next morning, looking out on the square you would not have thought there had been mayhem a few hour earlier.

A tempting fruit display and some fungi at the market.

Barbara had got a good line in roast chicken going.

In the council offices there are two reproductions of paintings by Edward Lear, who spent time here in the 1840s.

Of particular interest to Lear was the Abruzzo, which he visited in 1843, through the Marsica (Celano, Avezzano, Alba Fucens, Trasacco) and the plateau of Cinque Miglia (Castel di Sangro and Alfedena), by an old sheep track of the shepherds. ( Wikipedia)

Coffee by the old Post House on the square, then a local bus ride,€4.00 return to Sainte Marie.

( One thing I did notice en route is that fuel prices are even higher than the UK.)

The village of Sainte Marie housed the office of the Cammino Brigante as well as the museum. The obliging lady who handed us our certificates was also our guide for the museum. Apparently, our group had attracted considerable local interest being the first English group to complete the Cammino. Yesterday evening we were stopped twice in the old town by people who had heard about us! We were asked to pose as a group,for a photo, which happened again later in the museum – going to make the papers they said,proudly.

A short stroll brought us to the Palazzo Colelli, home of the Museum Dei Brigantaggio.

Our guide pointed out many things of interest about the Brigands and quite proudly expanded on the weaponry of a well armed female Brigante- leader.

Links to Italian unification were made and the short term liaison the Brigantes had with Garibaldi on his march Northwards. Apparently, none of the promises he made to the Brigands were being honoured so they swapped sides – he reminded me of certain contemporary English politicians – empty promises of £350 000 000 for the NHS, for example. Still I digress.

There were rifles, swords, knives and cutlasses on display and in a more peaceful room, a reproduction of a typical bedroom of the time. With an extraordinary bed warmer – a bowl of hot ashes from the kitchen fire – with a wooden frame to pre vent, hopefully, singing the blankets.

Then it was back to the community centre bar for mini pizzas before awaiting the bus back to Tagliacozzo.

We had an hour back at the hotel to freshen up. Earlier Caterina had presented Paolo with a card and a whip round from us as a mark of our appreciation for his time with us – his enthusiasm for his region, the Cammino, care of the environment, not to mention his encyclopaedic knowledge of the natural world engaged us all. A lovely guy and a great European! We also thanked Caterina with some special chocolates for giving us the chance to walk and enjoy this little known, as yet, wonderful region of Abruzzo.

Our driver arrived and we exchanged final hugs and good byes with Paolo before boarding the minibus back to Rome airport. A smooth ride and then a hassle – free passage through security. Homeward bound.

I am writing this on the flight and it feels as though we had been away a lot longer than a week. On reflection,everyday brought fresh and interesting things to see and sometimes to marvel at. Some decent climbs, too, which will help me, I hope,on my Camino Primitivo, early next month.

The food we were served, especially at dinner, was the best I can ever remember eating whilst on a European holiday – it was all locally sourced using recipes from the Abruzzo.

We had the pleasure of meeting and walking with two “new” members – Helen, Judy’s daughter and Maggie, a nurse from Nottingham – they were both great fun and we enjoyed their companionship.

As for the locals and all our hosts, well we could not have received better hospitality if we had been royalty – summed up by Anna, earlier in the week as she refused my payment for a round of drinks:-

“ No John, You Are My Guests…”

We were and we have all been very fortunate for a few ” bright” days.

“‘…in those few bright (Abruzzi) days’: Edward Lear’s landscaping gaze and the discovery of Abruzzo.

Came Höme with an additional letter to my name!

Another astonishingly situated town.

This was another enjoyable saunter, mainly alongside farm lands and the inevitable hillsides.

More sightings of Griffon Vultures above us.

And the Orsini Castle on the way.

Some of the group got carried away and did a spot of tree-hugging around a seven hundred year Oak Tree.

We reached the outskirts of Tagliacozzo and a veteran cyclist stopped for a chat and some photos – he was quite taken by Judy!

We entered the town through an impressive gateway and into the Obelisk Square.

After checking in at Hotel Marina, Paolo led a group of us on a tour upto and in to the old town. Steep in places and some intriguing doorways.

We then visited the Church of St Francis where the body of Blessed Tommaso de Celano lies – he is famous for being the biographer of St Francis and responsible for nearly everything that we know about St Francis.

On leaving the church we met a nun tending the flower tubs. Paolo asked her about the sisters’ daily routine, to his astonishment she cheerfully told him it was all on YouTube!

We then returned to the hotel for another great evening meal. Judy, like most of us couldn’t cope with all the grilled meat on offer and so she wrapped up a sausage and next morning at breakfast inserted it into a croissant for later.

Hotel Marina was a comfortable stay and someone with a GSOH drew the toilet signs.

And so it was goodnight from him.

View from the bedroom window,7.30 am; Breakfast in a cave, first time ever. Then we set off out of town to the plain which up until the mid 19 th century was an enormous lake.

This was a different terrain to previous day’s but really pleasant in the sunshine. Griffon Vultures were spotted circling high overhead.

After coffee we made our way alongside a river and below the foothills covered in wild flowers, encircled by butterflies.

En route to Castle Orsini passing door ways and the many ” vendesi” signs so common in all the habitats we pass through.

Goats frolicking and then an Oak tree, dating back to the 13 th Century.

Group photo on the steps of the St. Luzia Church.

After a very steep climb followed by a slippery descent in a rain shower, we reached our accommodation for the night – beautiful house and grounds – a loom and a log fire.

It was an excellent evening – the host joined in with the cards – didn’t stop Maggie from cheating!

I w et to see if I could help out in the kitchen, but the chef had it all in hand and produced a great meal for us.

The last photo is of local cheese, roasted in parchment – then dressed with a spoonful of Truffles.

Goodbye to our wonderful hostess, Anna and her husband – more delightful people you could not wish to meet – and off on our saunter to Rosciolo. The weather as forecasted was damp and grey, but everyone was in good heart as we made a gradual one hour climb along the slopes of the twin peaks of two mountains,2.400 metres high – catching glimpses of the higher slopes through the mist and drizzle.

Summer cattle shelters and a steepish slope, through occasional rain.

At the summit, after two hours, we paused and after a break for refreshments we made our way to S. Maria in Valle Porclaneta, where Paulo had arranged for a guided tour.

This church which dates back nearly a thousand years was built on the site of a Roman Temple. A small community of Benedictine’s monks lived and were interred here. A sacred place, reflecting Byzantine, Islamic influences over the centuries, including a visit from passing Crusaders, who left their mark(s), literally.

A fascinating structure, with unique elements – and despite an earthquake that destroyed the monks’ graveyard – still standing proudly in its mountainous setting. The frescoes are a treasure in themselves.

The pulpit and carving above the entrance to the altar are irreplaceable.

As our tour ended the rain became heavier for a while as we continued towards our resting place for the night. A fond farewell to a wonderful place.

Thankfully the rain soon eased and before long we reached Rosciolo for coffee and small pizza – € 2.00!

Our accommodation was B & B La Residencia, in the old part of the village – twin rooms and WiFi at last. Lovely place. After a shower and a break, three of us took a self guided tour of this semi neglected place – a mixture of restoration and ruins, with beautiful archways thrown in. At one time over a thousand people lived here; now a hundred or so, but it still retains its charm, with small lanes and views of the mountains, captivating doorways and bijou restorations around the main square.

As we were standing just across the square, a diminutive figure in traditional black dress came by,I wished her Buona Sera and she returned my greeting and stopped to talk .

It turned out that she was the church warden and asked us if we should like to see inside the imposing structure of La Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Gracie, dating from the 11 th century. This sprightly 90 year old the retraced her steps, unlocked the doors and switched on the lights for us to view the impressive frescoes dating back over five centuries.

After visiting two such memorable monuments we could have been forgiven for thinking we were on a pilgrimage rather than a Cammino. So, we repaired to the Bar de Torre. for a beer and some welcome olives. Quickly back to La Residencia for our evening briefing and then to Risorante Locanda dell Arco, for another delicious meal based on local ingredients.

A special Brigante menu followed by a digestif which some brigands found hard to digest! I loved it. Quickly back, past mysterious steps and doorways. It seemed like we had been away for far longer than four days and we have even more to look forward to.