ensuitepilgrim's Blog

“My passion for gardening may strike some as selfish, or merely an act of resignation in the face of overwhelming problems that beset the world. It is neither. I have found that each garden is just what Voltaire proposed in Candide: a microcosm of a just and beautiful society. ”
Andrew Weil

For “ gardening “ add allotment to the quotation above. Both my allotment and our garden were and still are lifesavers in these perilous times,here on “ Plague Island”.

I want to look back on what is almost a year of transformation at the allotment during Covid. Doubtless, having it as a resource,especially during lockdown, has provided an outlet for creativity and hopefully, bountifulness.

The main catalyst for such a momentous year was the acquisition of a greenhouse. Last September, I placed an enquiry on “ Nextdoor “, a local,neighbourhood forum, asking if anyone had a greenhouse they were looking to dispose of, ideally for free! Within 24 hours a lady contacted me to say she had an 8 x 6 foot greenhouse in good condition- needing only to be dismantled and removed.

Job done with help from a friend,Bob, and my wife,Barbara. I made a donation to a charity of my benefactor as I was given not only the greenhouse, but fixtures and fittings,including a paraffin heater .

It was in October 2020 that the actual erection began. Again with help from another friend,Mick,whose architectural background included that eye for both detail and place.

Thanks to Mick I had a frame in place and what was needed was the installation of the glass panes. I lacked the confidence and know how to attempt this and so a considerable delay ensued. This hiatus led to me having my leg pulled by some of my fellow plotholders until one day,nearing the end of the year, Malcolm our plot treasurer volunteered to give me a hand.

Job done II.

He was well organised and “nifty”,to use an old fashioned phrase – thanks Malcolm. Without my three friends’ assistance I should probably have only managed the kit below.

The greenhouse was in place and even screwed down after the loan of an electric screwdriver from another good neighbour on the plot,Phil.

“Gardens are not made by singing ‘Oh, how beautiful,’ and sitting in the shade. ”
Rudyard Kipling

It was Spring of this year when further transformation and creativity kicked in. With help and encouragement from Phil and the loan of his drill, I started making trellises and raised beds. I made new paths and constructed a pond.

In March,I had no notion that any of these would happen – my allotment was evolving- I could never claim to have planned it. I think the quotation below is absolutely appropriate.

The recycling element of the plot’s evolution came about mainly through Phil and Malcolm’s example. Phil could not pass a local skip or building site go by without scrutiny for any object that might be reused at the allotment…It’s catching I’m afraid…and I have found all manner of useful bits and pieces. I even came across an unwanted miniature table,left on the drive of a house nearby.

The pond was another “ find”. Opposite my plot adjacent to the railway , is a small copse thick with ivy and overhung by fruit trees. I had noticed that there was a square metal tank; goodness knows what it’s long gone owner’s’ intentions for it were, but I saw a possibility. I went back to the greenhouse and sat with a coffee in hand,sizing up a place for it as a pond. I wanted it to be close at hand. Having made the decision,I dug out a metre square or so of soil to a depth of 25 cm . I then sort of rolled the tank a distance of another 40 metres and with baited breath lowered it into place.

I edged it on two sides, planted some wildflower seeds I had saved from last Autumn and placed some pots of Chinese origin that a neighbour of Phil’s was looking to dispose of. Then I added a couple plants for oxygenation purposes and a water lily cutting from my garden pond.

RECYCLING has been of various kinds. Seed saving, skip perusal, ideas from neighbours and the Web are all in their own way a form of recycling. What follows are a few examples, from an abandoned garden table to wire squash trainers.

I almost forgot the earliest form of recycling,in February ,of horse manure from a field behind William Wheat garden centre,near Aldridge. That was after an earlier,not to repeated experience when an earlier request on the Forum took me unknowingly to a semi detached house in Banners’ Gate,behind which were three Shetland ponies, in a small rear garden – imagine what the neighbours have to put up with?I loaded up the boot of the car and made a hasty retreat.

The green house inspired me to sow some flower seeds for the first time. “ When the flower blooms, the bees come uninvited. ”
Ramakrishna.

Looking back on my fifteen years apprenticeship as a plot holder, I can remember when you were thought to be eccentric if you had a shed! What would the old guard have made of the pergolas,pathways,leisure spaces and feel for design that has been particularly noticeable during Lockdown – the welcome arrival of younger people and families has brought a fresh approach to Sunnybank allotments – what would they have thought of my Potato Tower?

You still have to put a shift in now and then – the less attractive side of plot care.

I have learned a lot this year – I certainly won’t try to grow 40 tomato plants, 10 aubergines and 20 various peppers and chillies next year but then Covid may not be as restrictive in 2022. What else could I have done ? Watched Netflix? And the above are all flourishing,not to mention umpteen courgettes, pumpkins,squashes etc.

“Garden as though you will live forever. ” Thomas Moore

I have never been so aware and thankful for my green spaces in these horrendous times – I feel privileged.

The very extensive remains of a 13thC priory, founded on the site of a retired pirate’s hermitage, St Goodrich .Part of it later served as a holiday retreat for the monks of Durham Cathedral. Beautifully sited by the River Wear – a most peaceful retreat – English Heritage should install more information within the remains of the Priory as there is only a very small sketch map outside the adjacent shop.

A short riverside walk through the wood brought us to a piggery.

Attached to a flower bed was a Camino sign for the Camino Ingles,which I have walked twice,most recently with Sutton Coldfield Ramblers. If you begin the Camino at A Coruna ,it is under the 100 Km required to obtain your compostela in Santiago- the authorities allow you to make up the distance on designated routes.The priory is situated on such a route and you can obtain a stamp ( sello ), for your pilgrim passport here .

Farewell then to this holy spot and back for a final saunter around “ old Durham town”

A useful, local bus service took us in to Durham for a final visit. The intention being to enjoy the riverside once more and to seek out the quieter backstreets of the old town,principally given over to the University.

Leaving the river and ascending to the bridge, there is this inscription embedded – quite appropriate if a little melancholy…

Returning to the old streets around the Bailey.

Archways and chapels.

Final view of the Cathedral.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=K9xcCH1o7S0&feature=share

“ I’m Gonna Leave Old Durham Town” by Roger Whittaker. Takes me back to my Folk club years. A memorable break in County Durham and a sojourn further north. Hopefully even further northwards next time.

The above title was filched from an article in The Independent that recalls the mining heritage of this now award winning coastline.

“You were working two, three mile out to sea. You were nearly an hour underground before you got started.” On a sunny day in June when the North Sea merely tickles the shoreline, it is hard to conceive that, just 18 years ago, men were walking – or crawling – along dark, damp galleries hewn beneath the water. “Hutton was the lowest – over 2,000 feet of rock above you, seven fathom of sea water above that.” The quotes are from an unknown miner. His words enlighten the casual traveller who sees little but cliffs ablaze with wildflowers and sands bleached and softened by the sea.

Eighteen years ago , the Vane Tempest Colliery closed. For more than a century, mining on the coast of County Durham had been a heroic enterprise that had sustained the most densely industrialised location in Europe. Around what became the colliery village of Seaham, plate tectonics had conspired to create a rich source of coal at the point where the North Sea crashes against north-east England. Three pits were created to extract the wealth beneath the surface of the earth – and, when that proved insufficient, the brave souls struck out beneath the surface of the sea.

A two mile stretch of coastline round Seaham has been enriched by the Time & Tide trail, which tells visitors of the courage of the miners and their families. Ten years on, Seaham has been transformed so comprehensively that you need all the help you can get to understand the harshness of life in the mining communities. Seaham Colliery itself experienced seven accidents, including one on 8 September 1880, that claimed 164 lives.

Seaham is generally regarded now as having the best beaches in C. Durham. The harbour/ marina area is worth a visit,too.

Seaham has military connections as this striking sculpture shows.

There are about twenty chapels/ churches in England ,from 7/8th centuries that are still in existence and the church of St Mary the Virgin is an example.

Some of the gravestones tell of the sad fates of some of the local people over the years – death in the mines, in railway collisions – I invariably find aspects of local history depicted on them.

A great day by the sea and an inspiring example of a community and coastline’s rebirth – Seaham is a super place to see.

Fifty miles up from Durham and passing the famous Angel of the North,en route along the great north road.

Not a particularly “ great” drive as there are road widening works for a fair number of miles. However,Alnwick was the first stop and having got to grip with parking arrangements- you have to buy a disc from a local shop for £1.00 and display it on your dashboard .You can keep the disc and parking is free thereafter.

A walkabout and coffee near the market square.

Refreshed and ready for the Gardens and castle – five minute walk away.

The Alnwick Garden is a complex of formal gardens adjacent to Alnwick Castle in the town of Alnwick, Northumberland, England. The gardens have a long history under the dukes of Northumberland, but fell into disrepair until revived at the turn of the 21st century. From The Alnwick Garden:- “”The Alnwick Garden gives pleasure in so many ways to so many people from all walks of life. It has become a contemporary pleasure garden, which brings joy to millions. When I see photographs of it in darkness I feel that I’m watching it sleep, resting in preparation for the people it has to entertain the following day. To me, a garden without people is dead and people have bought The Alnwick Garden to life and restored its soul.” – The Duchess of Northumberland”

This was one example.

Some of the contemporary features .

12 acres of meandering and attractive Gardens are home to the world’s largest Tai Haku Cherry Orchard, a Grand Cascade comprising 120 water jets and the worlds largest Treehouse Restaurant. We were very impressed with the rose collection.

Adjacent is the impressive Alnwick Castle,recently famous for its Harry Potter associations.

History on a grand scale. After the Angel of the North this is known as the Windsor of the North

Alnwick Castle is the second largest inhabited castle in the country and has been home to the Duke of Northumberland’s family, the Percys, for over 700 years.

Combining medieval architecture with Italianate State Rooms, Alnwick Castle is regarded as one of the UK’s most significant heritage destinations.

The Castle’s rich history is brimming with drama, intrigue and extraordinary people; from a gunpowder plotter and visionary collectors, to decadent hosts and medieval England’s most celebrated knight: Harry Hotspur.It is certainly an extraordinary building – a bit too much for me.

Picnic lunch and 9 miles to a coastal contrast – Craster.

The name of picturesque Craster is thought to come from ‘craw ceastere’ referring to some kind of fortified place inhabited by crows or someone called Crow.

A family called the Crasters lived in the area for centuries. Craster is famous for its kippers which are smoked on oak chippings to give them the distinctive Northumbrian flavour. The village is a starting point for the short coastal walk we took to the wonderfully situated Dunstanburgh Castle.

Dunstanburgh Castle

From Craster, a mile long footpath leads to the extensive coastal ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle, which are situated on a Whin Sill outcrop overlooking the sea.

Said to be on the site of a stronghold of the ancient Britons Dunstanburgh was built in 1313 by Thomas, Earl of Lancaster and was extended in the 1380s by John of Gaunt. Although it is a ruin today it occupies the largest site of any castle in the region and has a very romantic location. As a Lancastrian stronghold, the castle played an important role in the Wars of the Roses.

The sad legend of Sir Guy the Seeker.

Sir Guy the Seeker

According to legend, there is a secret cavern hidden beneath the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle in which a beautiful young maiden lies sleeping in a deep spell cast upon her by an evil wizard.

The legend claims that on a wild stormy night, many centuries ago, a young knight by the name of Sir Guy the Seeker was looking for shelter at Dunstanburgh when he was approached by the wizard. With a fierce expression and flaming hair, the wizard terrified Sir Guy, but he meant the knight no harm and instead presented him with a challenge:

“Sir Knight ! Sir Knight !

If your heart be right,

And your nerves be firm and true,

Sir Knight ! Sir Knight a beauty bright

In durance waits for you”

Sir Guy accepted the challenge and asked to be taken to the place where the young girl lay sleeping. The wizard escorted Sir Guy along a dark winding stairway. Sir Guy’s heart started beating fast – was he the victim of a trick?

Could Sir Guy trust the wizard to keep his promise that a young maiden lay sleeping and awaiting a rescuer? He followed the wizard with fear.

And now they go both high and low,

Above and undergound,

And in and out, and about and about,

And round, and round, and round.

Eventually after much walking the stairway finally terminated at a great door which was bolted shut with the aid of a hideous venomous snake. Without fear, the wizard removed the snake from the door which opened to reveal a huge but darkened hall.

At the end of the hall lay the beautiful young maiden as the wizard had promised. She was indeed beautiful as she lay sleeping in a tomb of crystal which was guided on either side by two ugly skeleton figures, the one on the right holding a falchion bright, the one on the left holding a horn.

The wizard explained that the young maiden’s fate depended on whether he should choose the horn or the sword. After considering for much time, Sir Guy finally chose to blow the horn, but his choice proved disastrous, he fell into an immediate sleep and awoke to find himself caught once more in the storms outside Dunstanburgh Castle.

As might be expected Sir Guy was to spend the rest of his life searching for the secret cave where the girl lay sleeping. Alas, it was to no avail, the unhappy knight was to die a remorseful man. The words of the old wizard haunted his mind to the very end:

Shame on the coward who sounded a horn

When he might have unsheathed a sword!

We enjoyed our first,contrasting experiences of Northumberland and would certainly like to return and explore even further north,next time.

Motorhome has gone ( RIP) and much sorrow – dampness was found during a routine habitation check and the costs were difficult to reconcile with,so farewell.Therefore, an apartment rented for a few days on the outskirts of Durham – a city never visited before and long on the wishlist.

I really love Durham more than any place I’ve ever been; some small towns can be really provincial and strangling, but Durham is the best city in the world. – John Darnielle

After arrival at Cheveley Park,Belmont, a local bus was taken into the city, the intention ? A walkabout to familiarise ourselves and a riverside watering hole. We were not disappointed. The city was sunlit and it’s mainly traffic free streets gave it a “ continental “, to use an old fashioned description. Being of scholarly disposition it was not surprising that we chose The Library for early evening refreshments, a riverside gem and not a book in sight.

I found this website to be very informative:- It provides a concise account of the evolution of the city,going back to Roman times although the Roman name for Durham has never been discovered.

Leaving the Romans aside, the real story of Durham as we know it today begins with St Cuthbert, a seventh century Northumbrian saint who at the age of seventeen entered the monastery of Melrose near the River Tweed to become a monk. His outstanding qualities – a fair and placid manner, a remarkable talent for athletics and a reputed gift for working miracles are certain to have attracted attention and not surprisingly Cuthbert quickly gained promotion. Ultimately he was appointed to the post of Bishop on the island of Lindisfarne just off the Northumberland coast. As a bishop, Cuthbert travelled widely throughout the north and played an important part in encouraging people to follow the Christian faith which had only recently been introduced to Northumbria. Later in his life Cuthbert retired from the post of bishop to pursue life as a hermit on the remote island of Inner Farne, one of a group of small islands to the south east of Lindisfarne.

There it remained for a few years until the monks decided to remove the coffin for inspection. On removal of the body, the monks were astonished to find the corpse in a totally incorrupt state – it had not decayed. This remarkable discovery was seen as a miracle and Cuthbert was proclaimed a saint. When the news of the miracle spread, huge numbers of pilgrims travelled from far and wide to visit Lindisfarne.

Here Cuthbert was visited by many pilgrims but for most of the time he was occupied by prayer having only the sea birds and seals for company. It was here on Inner Farne in the year 687 AD that Cuthbert finally died in the fifty second year of his life. In accordance with an agreement made by Cuthbert during his life, his body was removed from Inner Farne and taken to Lindisfarne for burial. Further details on the website .

This made the monastery on the island extremely wealthy from gifts bestowed by the visitors. Sadly, the increasing wealth of the Lindisfarne monastery ultimately attracted visitors of a most unwelcome kind in the form of the Vikings who came to raid and plunder the island for its riches in 793 AD. As the Viking raids on Lindisfarne continued throughout the following century, the monks of the Holy Island were forced to flee to the mainland.

The monks took with them the coffin of St Cuthbert and other valuable relics like the famous Lindisfarne Gospels. For over a century, the monks and their successors carried the coffin around the north of England , settling for a time at Norham-on-Tweed, at Chester-le-Street and at Ripon before settling at Durham in the year 995 AD. The legendary story behind their settlement at Durham is related in the legend of the Dun Cow . There are similarities here with the legends about Santiago and the various sightings of his remains,plus the fact that both Durham and Santiago de Compostella became major pilgrim sites.

Dun was an Anglo-Saxon word meaning ‘hill’, while ‘holm’ meaning island is a word of Scandinavian origin. Dun Holm was later called Duresme by the Normans and was known in Latin as Dunelm. Over the years the name has been simplified to the modern form – Durham.

On learning the name of their destination the monks found that they were now able to move the coffin. Proceeding west through well-wooded countryside they asked a number of local people where they could find Dunholm but unfortunately no-one had heard of such a place. Luckily by chance in an area later known as Mount Joy a milkmaid was overheard asking another milkmaid if she had seen her dun cow – a grey coloured beast that had wandered off on its own. The other maid answered that she had seen the cow roaming about near Dunholm.

When the monks heard mention of Dun Holm they were filled with joy and followed the footsteps of the milk maid as she searched for her cow.

By this stroke of luck or divine providence, they were able to find the site of Dunholm – a wooded ‘hill – island’ peninsula formed by a tight gorge-like meander of the River Wear.

It was on high ground protected on three sides by the steep wooded gorge of the River Wear. The more likely reason for establishing a settlement and a fortress.

The following day’s weather was as forecast – the complete opposite – steady rainfall . Undaunted and prepared, the bus was taken again and we made our way up the hilly streets to the Cathedral.

The Sanctuary Ring.

Most visitors to Durham Cathedral enter from Palace Green via the North Door on which we find the imposing bronze sanctuary ring. This is popularly known as the ‘sanctuary knocker’ but the protruding ring that hangs from the beast’s mouth has always been fixed in place to the door and is intended for grasping rather than for rapping. The whole sanctuary ring is a near perfect replica of the twelfth century original which is now part of the cathedral museum’s treasured collection.

The sanctuary ring features the face of a hideous lion-like beast and represents the ancient privilege of sanctuary that Durham Cathedral once granted to criminal offenders. Criminals could seek refuge at Durham by grasping the knocker and alerting the attentions of watchers who resided in two small chambers overlooking the door.

The aforementioned website gives a really interesting account of the Cathedral as place of sanctuary for criminals in particular.

It is impossible to convey the beauty and history of this magnificent cathedral and there is much more information to be found on the Net. We were greatly impressed by everything we saw and the friendliness of the guides.

Eventually,after an uplifting morning, the Undercroft cathedral cafe provided strong coffee and to one person’s great delight- cheese scones!

After a picnic lunch on the riverside, we continued walking alongside the Wear .

Then, after taking in some of the streets and shops , a taxi ride back home to base, the alternative would have been a 45 minute wait for the bus.

Despite the rain, it had been a great day in canny Durham.

Dominated as we are by a global pandemic,increasing poverty, an incompetent and corrupt government, the likelihood of an unforeseen and endlessly damaging Brexit…Despair is understandable and so to find myself uplifted by an unlikely local discovery was so timely.

Some time has elapsed since I wrote a blog and coming to the closing days of this pestilential year it seems an unlikely time to renew writing…yet a walk yesterday renewed my optimism; the discovery of a Brummie hero’s statue at Five Ways,Edgbaston – Joseph Sturge. This all came about in the course of reconnoitring a walk for Sutton Coldfield Ramblers. I must have by passed this statue a thousand times,as I was a pupil at the then, nearby St Philip’s Grammar School. It demonstrates what even local walking can bring to light. Edgbaston has always been a Conservative stronghold,so it is all the more surprising that the life and radical work of this great man should be commemorated there – He did live there for some time.

The memorial to the English Quaker, abolitionist and activist Joseph Sturge (1793–1859) was unveiled before a crowd of 12,000 people on 4 June 1862 at Five Ways, Birmingham, England, near his former home. The statue has been grade II listed since 8 June 1982.

Sturge Memorial before and after restoration

Standing at the boundary between Birmingham and Edgbaston, it was sculpted by John Thomas, whom Sir Charles Barry had employed as stone and wood carver on the former King Edward’s Grammar Schoolat Five Ways. He died before completing the memorial,which cost £1000.Some time around 1975, the figure of Sturge’s left hand fell off.

Sturge is posed as if he were teaching, with his right hand resting on a Bibleto indicate his strong Christian faith. He wears a lapel-less coat of a style favoured by contemporary Quakers.Lower on the plinth, he is flanked by two female allegorical figures: one representing Peace holds a dove and an olive branch, with a lamb at her feet, symbolic of innocence; and the other, Charity, offers comfort and succour to two Afro-Caribbean infants, recalling the fight and victory over slavery .Around the crown of the plinth are inscribed the words “Charity, Temperance and Peace” (the word “Temperance” is on a gadrooned basin, which used to dispense drinking water as well as Sturge’s name and his date of death. The figures and pedestal (still the original) are in Portland stone.

In 1925 the monument was moved a short distance, to its current position,and a bronze plaque was affixed to the memorial to tell passers-by more about its subject. The inscription reads (all in capitals; punctuation added for readability):

“He laboured to bring freedom to the Negro slave, the vote to British workmen, and the promise of peace to a war-torn world.”

In 2006-2007 the Birmingham Civic Society, Birmingham City Council, and the Sturge family restored the statue for the 200th anniversary of the Slave Trade Act of 1807. This included the provision of a replacement for the missing hand.

On 24 March 2007, the city held a civic ceremony to formally rededicate the statue. The Lord Mayor of Birmingham, councillor Mike Sharpe, unveiled a new interpretation board giving details of Sturge’s life. The work is now in the care of Birmingham City Council.

And so, a few days later, a group of ramblers met at Five Ways Station to begin our Peregrination through the desirable “ villages” of Edgbaston and Harborne and beyond.

Nine Sutton Coldfield Ramblers took the train from Sutton to Five Ways Station on Sunday 13 th December. We made our way quickly up to the aforesaid statue – the gateway to Edgbaston, mentioned in the Domesday Book,part of the CALTHORPE Estate of 1500 acres. A 1/3 of Birmingham’s Listed buildings are in Edgbaston . The estate’s wish was there should be no industry and that remains the case. Hence the desirability of the B15 postcode.

The route took us around St George’s Church.

A Church of England Grade II listed parish church. Built in 1838 as one of the largest churches in Birmingham it was much enlarged in 1856 and 1884. It is located within the historically important Edgbaston conservation area and is closely associated with the patronal Calthorpe family. The church was built originally as a chapel of ease of St Bartholomew’s and enlarged to accommodate the growing population of Edgbaston. Residents in the southern side of the parish included wealthy householders and their staff, living in large period properties. Buildings also included early asylums for the blind and deaf and dumb. The northern side of the parish was poor and the church provided an Infant School, now a modern Church of England sponsored Academy Primary.

Today, the parish community is multi-ethnic.  The church supports the Karis Neighbour Scheme which looks after families, the elderly, refugees and asylum seekers. Recently commercial properties have displaced previously domestic housing. St George’s maintains an active mission to the whole parish.

The area is FOODIE’s destination – 4 Michelin starred restaurants

Only London has more Michelin restaurants.

Continue reading →

The last night in Spain was spent at Camping de Haro – having stayed here some years ago – we knew it would be a good site.

A good pool and lots of trees – as ever in Spain,everyone social distanced and wore their mascarillas.

It had a friendly atmosphere,especially on the bar/restaurant terrace where we were served drinks and platos combinados by a cheerful waitress.

The River Tiron flows by the walkway in to town. We passed through a gap en route,which had been made by demolishing a section of an old railway.

It was quite early by Spanish provincial standards when we walked into town – this was our third stay in HARO,spanning a period of twenty years or more – and there were few people up and about. With a half day to spend before driving up to Bilbao for the ferry to Portsmouth. I remembered the first visit to Haro, back in the Camping days – a terrific rainstorm meant putting up the tent was impossible, so we found a small hotel,just off the Plaza de Paz . When the rain stopped we went for something to eat at this restaurant.

The second visit was a few years ago,in August and there was a Tapas festival taking place – we met up with couple of friends at the campsite, as arranged, in Motorhomes by now and enjoyed a great night on the tapas trail…didn’t see much of the town!

So, on this our third visit, it was time to put that right and what a beautiful centro historico it is.

The plaza de Paz is an archetypal Spanish square, complete with bandstand.

HARO WINE CAPITAL OF THE RIOJA REGION

Haro in La Rioja is is the wine capital of the region and is famous for it’s Wine Festival and the wine fight, the Batalla de Vino.

The town of Haro has been built up around winegrowing since French grape growers came to the area looking for a way to escape the pests in their French vineyards. Thanks to its privileged climate at the meeting point between the Atlantic and Mediterranean climates with much sunshine, and sheltered by the Cantabrian Mountains, Haro is a great area for winemaking. The clacerous clay soils are also perfect for winegrowing. Located in the Ebro river basin and sided by the Obarenes mountains, and the Cantabrian mountains, the landscape of vineyards around Haro has it’s own charm.

In the town itself, Haro has some wonderful religious and civil architecture. The church of Santo Tomas, also known as the Watchtower, stands at the foot of a hill, and has an impressive archway.

The squared bottom part of its tower was built in the Gothic style and topped with the octagonal Baroque part in 1720, crowned by a cupola with lantern. The basilica of the Vega is dedicated to Haro’s patron saint, the Virgin of Vega,  features a striking Baroque altarpiece from 1740 and has some very pretty gardens.

For those more interested in civil architecture, there are many stately palaces dating from the 16th to 18th centuries blending the styles of Renaissance, Baroque and Neoclassical architecture.

Haro is also home to the Rioja Wine Interpretation Centre, a research centre with a museum for the public. Here you can learn all about the various processes of grape growing an wine production with videos, displays, diagrams and some containers filled with flavourings which you can smell. Every year, Haro celebrates its winegrowing heritage and status with the Battala de Vino at the Haro Wine Festival.

A day where everyone wears white, later stained pink by the red wine which everyone throws over each other using buckets, water pistols and any other wine carrying containers to hand, the Batalla de Vino is a fun day culminating in traditional dances and partying in the evening, even after the big night of partying that goes before it! The festival is celebrated on June 29th every year, on the feast of San Pedro y Paulo.

Wineries, known as bodegas, abound in the area surrounding Haro.

You can also follow the Rioja Alta Wine Route, which passes through the town. There are also gastronomic routes to be explored, mainly around the Herradura, a horse-shoe shaped group of streets known for its tapas bars and restaurants. Wandering around town there are many wine shops selling the local produce. I loved the many sculptures relating to the world of winegrowing which are dotted around the town centre and on the roundabouts.

It is almost inevitable for me to come across a Camino sign when visiting a city,town or village – Haro is on The Tunnel Route which begins in Irun.

We came across an exhibition of old photos in one of the arcades off the main square – mostly joyous photos – you are guaranteed a good time in Haro.

SO WHY VISIT HARO?

• Haro Wine Festival 
• Excellent La Rioja wines
• Many bodegas (wineries) around the town 
• Beautiful civil and religious architecture
• Not OTT TOURISM wise
• Beautiful surrounding countryside
• Great campsite
• Good range of accommodation
• Very good road network nearby

After a coffee in the Plaza it was time to make a start on the last stage of the tour.

The journey to Bilbao took just over an hour on the Autovía -only busy on the ring road to the port .

Loading was efficient on to the ferry, despite having the van looked over by the Guardia Civil- probably thought it was suspicious there being a female driver!

We self-catered for lunch and dinner but enjoyed a full English breakfast at a very reasonable price.

A smooth crossing – Bay of Biscay and all.

PS Thanks to Hannah for some of the photos

CALPE

The Rough Guide to Spain gives Calpe short shrift and Lonely Planet is not ecstatic about it either – that could be due to snobbishness or laziness – or from suffering the after effects of nearby Benidorm. There were no Dorks in evidence here and though there are young families aplenty, it is very popular with those of a certain vintage.

I cannot recall staying for a whole week in a tourist town – usually to be avoided – but this had to be a tour with contrasting destinations. My preference is for quiet, offbeat preferably semi – rural places. But, if the coast is to be sought on the Spanish Med.in late July, then “quiet” is not easy to factor in. Calpe was not as busy in these Covid devastated times as it would normally be and it was certainly calm,orderly and had its charms.

It is the biggest resort I have ever stayed in.

The campsite,Calpemar,was only half full and it was well situated for the lovely beaches, a 10 minute walk away and from the town itself. The bonus though, was the supermarket, situated just across a very quiet service road. It was the nearest to a Waitrose I have ever seen in Spain – newly built and stressing its “ locally sourced” credentials. It’s called Mymercat.

One of the main tourist destinations on Spain’s Costa Blanca, Calpe has been home to many ancient civilisations, which means it has a fascinating history and some remnants of its past, such as its Roman Baths that you can see today. Embraced by a wonderful landscape, where vineyards and mountains are a feature, Calpe is probably best known for its good value fish restaurants and lovely sandy beaches.

I would have to commend the two Tourist Information Offices I used – one on the seafront, the other in the Old Town – effusive and helpful staff.

Calm waters lap up against a shore that continues on for around 11 km, in a spot where somehow or other modern tourism blends with natural beauty, culture and gastronomy. You can enjoy this variety, which includes on one hand some high-rise buildings close to the beach, but on the other hand the wonderful symbolic rock, Penon Ifach, which you’ve most likely seen already in photos.

Some of the 20 storey skyscrapers are very imaginatively constructed .

They are not in the same league as Benidorm!

In the same way you’ll find that very deep-rooted traditions seem to co-exist harmoniously enough with the tourist industry. And even though it is one of the Costa Blanca’s busier spots, it seems to have mainly retained an attitude of warm hospitality.

We enjoyed the pure sea air, while taking in the beautiful views of the surrounding countryside. Some interesting flora and fauna on some of the routes, like the , Las Salinas Natural Park, and of course Peñón de Ifach.

If you like a buzzing tourist destination, with good weather, local seafood cuisine, a historic old quarter, along with outdoor activities, fiestas and nightlife – then this is the right place. Some interesting sculptures too.

Ample avenues and modern buildings blend alongside the ancient fishing village, where there’s plenty of different types of entertainment for visitors and locals alike. There are numerous, different types of restaurants, from the fabulous fish choices in the port, to luxury gourmet dining in a selection of International restaurants. There’s plenty of places to get tapas, with a beer or a glass of vino, whatever you fancy and a number of Indian restaurants. Russians invest heavily in this part of Spain, so it was unsurprising to find Russian translations of menus,alongside French,German,Dutch and English.

Summing it up, this seaside city does combine a type of romantic village feel with plenty of activity, and of course sun, sand and sea.

It has approximately 13,000 inhabitants, and its main economic activities are tourism and fishing. It seems it’s magical massive rock continues to inspire people from all sorts of different places to come and enjoy this wonderful view of the bays.

A large fruit and vegetable market, excellent shopping facilities add to the attractions on offer for visitors. As do activities such as scuba diving and sailing, climbing and hiking, along with tennis and bowls.

Calpe is located 76 km (47 miles) away from Alicante airport and 129 km (80 miles) from Valencia airport. By motorhome you can reach it on the AP-7 highway (note that always in Spain, if there is a P in the name of the motorway this means you have to pay) – or the N-332 national road, which is fine also, and you don’t need to pay tolls.

Many Iberian, Roman and Arab archaeological sites exist in the town because of its strategic coastal location.

. “In Spain, the dead are more alive than the dead of any other country in the world.”– Federico Garcia Lorca

History

As it offered a perfect privileged surveillance point, Calpe has had an interesting history and has been occupied by a range of different cultures, such as the Romans, Iberians and Phoenicians. Like today’s tourists , they were also attracted because of the wonderful Ifach Rock. In fact the town gradually grew up around the rock.

Its old quarter is protected by the old walls, which were constructed during the 15th century as a defensive method against Pirates. Around El Arrabal, the Moorish quarter, you’ll notice that some of this area is quite well preserved.

Other historical highlights include the Roman Baths – Baños de la Reina, which translates into the Queens Bath.

And the 15th century parish church, which today is the only remaining example of a Gothic Mudejar church in the Valencia region.

Originally constructed in the early 15th century, the site of the old church of Calpe is on top of the site of an old chapel which was present during the Christian conquest.

The fortified Mudéjar Gothic building had the dual purpose of being both for religious worship, as well as for defensive purposes. It served as a place of refuge when the community was under attack.

Inside is a panel painting of great artistic value, in tempera, that dates to the 15th century. It depicts St. Cosmas, St. Anthony the Abbot, and St. Damian, and is the creation of Master Perea’s workshop. Other works are also housed inside that are dedicated to the municipality’s patron saint, Cristo del Sudor, St. Sepulcro and the patron saint of sailors, the Virgin Carmen.

Calpe Saltmines

The location of the Peñon d’Ilfach has an influence in the formation of this fascinating humid area. It’s a lagoon of tombolic source generated by the evolution of a double sandbar. The salt flats inhabit a depression full of Quaternary alluvial deposits.

Of course salt was essential for food preservation, so Calpe was able to take advantage of the salt mines in order to promote the local fish. Historically the salt mines have been of great importance, that can be traced back as far as the 2nd century AD, at which time the Roman civilisations there combined the salt pans with the fish farm. At one stage the salt mines were providing salt to around 40 municipalities. It was towards the latter part of the 18th century, that they went into decline, due to infections that were causing fevers in the local people.

In 1993 they were declared to be a Maritime Terrestrial zone. At the salt flats you can see different birds, probably the most outstanding being the flamingo, as well as plant life that is distinctive to this peculiar ecosystem.

Plaça de la Villa, located in Old Town Calpe, features narrow cobbled streets that are lined with colourful murals, potted plants, and flowers, as well as ancient Roman ruins and city walls. This historical square is also home to Calpe’s most iconic museums and churches, including the Parish Church of Virgen de las Nieves and Museo del Coleccionismo. The best way to explore Plaça de la Villa is on foot, as you get to see beautiful wall mosaics and street art along the alleyways.

Torreó De La Peça

Torreó de la Peça is a defensive tower that was constructed to protect Calpe from pirates during the 15th century. Located near the Parish Church of Virgen de las Nieves, the wall features 2 cannons dating back to the 14th century.

Mosaico Mural

The colourful mosaic mural of Calpe by Gastón Castelló

The Mosaico Mural can be found on the main façade of the city’s tourism office in Old Town Calpe. Widely regarded as one of Calpe’s most beautiful tile murals, it’s the work of Alicantino muralist Gastón Castelló. It depicts the town’s fishing industry, complete with a ship, Peñón de Ifach (Ifach Rock), and people dressed in traditional costumes and carrying fish. There are plenty of murals painted on building facades and stairways within the historical neighbourhood.

Baños de la Reina (Queen’s Baths)

Baños de Reina (Queen’s Baths) is an ancient Roman site next to the Paseo Maritimo Playa del Bol promenade. Built between the 2nd and 4th centuries, the excavation site comprises the ruins of a fish farm and a thermal bath complex with interconnected pools carved from rocks. Baños de Reina is about 1.5 km northeast of Ifach Rock.

Platja del Arenal-Bol is a clean and lively beach that spans 1.5 km in length.

It’s within a 10-minute walk of Old Town Calpe, making it one of the most popular places for locals and tourists to relax during the summer. There’s a beachfront promenade that’s lined with bars, restaurants, boutiques, and souvenir shops, as well as windsurfers, jet skis, paddleboards, and surfboards available to rent. Platja del Arenal-Bol also caters to people with mobility issues by providing handicap-friendly bathrooms, crutches, and amphibious chairs.

On another trip we walked around the rock to another beautiful beach – Playa Fosse de Levante – more upmarket than the old town beach.

Calpe’s old town still has nice wide avenues where modern buildings and old architecture collide. Calpe is almost three thousand years old and in this area it still retains a sense of history and tradition. The earliest archaeological findings, at the time of the Iberians were found at the Ifach cliffs. Later the Romans established a wealthy colony at the coast whose main activity was the trade of dried and salted fish.

In the Middle Ages, Calpe’s local population developed agriculture. Christians and Moslems lived here peacefully together, despite the many attacks from pirates between the 14th and 17th century. In the 18th century this threat was removed and Calpe enjoyed an economic upswing which continues to the day.

“In Spain, attempting to obtain a chicken salad sandwich, you wind up with a dish whose name, when you look it up in your Spanish-English dictionary, turns out to mean: Eel with big abscess.” — Dave Barry

Well,we are going for a farewell fish meal tonight at the fishing port – Hope we don’t encounter problems like that on the menu.

Tomorrow we set off for Haro, capital of the Rioja wine region. The following day we are booked on a Brittany Ferry from Bilbao to Portsmouth. Hopefully home on Friday 31st.

Monday 20 th July went well until I slipped on some loose gravel by the pitch and fell on my right arm – injuring it , above the elbow and shoulder area. I was cleaned up and went to bed,with some paracetamol and codeine tablets taken. In the morning,there were abrasions to clean up, but very restricted and painful movement in my right arm. Ice packs and Voltarol ointment were obtained by Hannah from the local Pharmacia and applied.

The pain was relieved but the inhibited movement remained.

This was going to be a problem as we were due to leave Los Lomas for Calpe on the Mediterranean in a day’s time,Wednesday – a distance of 260 miles. Except for the first seven miles, which would be on a twisty,mountain road, the rest of the journey would be on the Autovias.

However, as it was ,I could not drive as using the steering wheel adequately was not possible.

At this juncture,sitting by the bus and pondering our options, an unlikely saviour appeared. Enter, Chris Coleman, native of Dublin and resident of Cork, who came over for a chat having not spoken in English to anyone for ten days. We did not mention my dilemma and exchanged stories of our respective travels. Chris was on a six month sabbatical from his work as a water engineer. He had bought a motorbike and state of the art tent, with the intention of crossing in to Morocco and seeing how far he could get. Unfortunately, it was not possible to enter Africa from Spain, except for legitimate HGVS.

So, he turned around, literally, with plan B – to travel to Scandinavia, via a visit to his sister in South Eastern France.By the next day, Barbara had volunteered to drive the bus,having never driven it before, with the proviso I drove down the mountain. Barbara is a good driver so there was no problem with that . But there was still a problem with my right arm…

The next morning, in conversation with Chris, he noticed the ice pack bulging out of my T-shirt and the sorry story was shared. Chris,without a moment’s hesitating, volunteered to drive us as far as required – all the way to Calpe if necessary!

He said time was no problem for him and despite having no experience of driving a 3.5 Tonne motorhome, he was up for it.

After a brief discussion,we gratefully agreed to his suggestion with the proviso that he drove us only to the first service station, from where he could get a taxi back to Las Lomas.

So, within 30 minutes, two first time motorhome drivers at the wheel.

Chris drove slowly and carefully down to the main road and then on to the Autovia. On reaching the first service station, on the outskirts of Granada, we had coffee together and Chris was delighted with the experience of driving the bus – who knows we might have sowed the idea of getting one himself.

We again expressed our thanks and shook hands as his taxi arrived, promising to keep in touch.

Chris Coleman – A True Knight of the Road.

Barbara nervelessly took over the wheel after a couple of adjustments to the driving seat – 260 miles,5.5 hours driving – thankfully, after a few climbs out of the Sierra Nevada, gear changes lessened and we made good progress on our accustomed , relatively traffic free Spanish highways.

A little busier around Murcia.

Then a lunch break- Morcilla sausage stuffed Bocadillos – so big were they that I could only manage half,wrapping the other half up for breakfast.

I was now in the role of co-pilot, checking for overtaking mainly, as Barbara drove fearlessly and fast !

To add to the fun, the Snooper SatNav came up with a “serious error” message and stopped working. So, it was back to basic map reading and on leaving the Autovia at the Calpe turn off, Hannah on Google Maps with directions to the campsite .

After initially choosing a pitch which proved to be rather small, a better emplacement was found and with no fuss at all, we parked up and set up camp.

Great stuff Barbara – I can see it’s going to be hard to get my job back!

Meanwhile, we got the BBC NEWS and read of our so- called government’s knee jerk decision to impose 14 day quarantine on returning visitors to Spain, despite the fact that all the islands and everywhere except Catalunya, had lower rates of infection than the UK ! It won’t bother us much as we have little planned on our return at the end of this week. Let’s hope that Grant Shapps is monitored on his return from Spain…you know,like Cummings😩

Ximo Puig, leader of the Valencia region, told a local radio station that “our epidemiological data is better than the UK’s”, and said the quarantine order was “not justified”. Calpe is in Valencia . Can you imagine what Brexit is going to be like under this embarrassing excuse for a government ?