ensuitepilgrim's Blog

We booked an excursion for the walk,including transport by coach,breakfast en route,admission and the services of a guide – there was a courier on board to advise about the route,times,etc. It’s a forty mile drive up into the mountains, initially through Citrus groves,then becoming more serpentine like as the expertly driven coach made its way along narrow roads upwards – almost as exciting as the walk. By the end of the day we were glad to have done so – not having a guide we would have missed out on lots of background information – you can’t get lost! Unless you fall off….

The numbers allowed on the Caminito are restricted,although some individual tickets are permitted

The history of the Caminito’s construction is fascinating and frightening in equal measure.

Construction of the Caminito del Rey

The difficulties to build the road had to be many, and more at that time. The workers had to work suspended above the void, tied to ropes attached to the top of the cliff. In the popular imagination, such work had to be carried out by prisoners, even those sentenced to death, the only ones capable of risking their lives, according to what they say, in exchange for redemption in the sentences they were serving.

However, the only thing we know for sure is that sailors from Malaga worked on this and other works in the reservoir, skilled at hanging from the ropes of their boats.

The original structure still exists in many sections of the walk and the decaying remains in places made the hairs on my neck rise.

The Walkway was not originally called Caminito del Rey – The little walk of the king – it came about unintentionally. King Alfonso XIII covered this entire service path on May 21, 1921, on the occasion of his inaugural visit to the recently completed El Chorro reservoir dam, which would later be called the Conde de Guadalhorce dam. Since then, the road has taken its current name: the Caminito del Rey.

The description of the occasion is as follows : –

In the book “ El Chorro, one hundred years of history ”, by Sebastián Lara Centella, the royal visit to the Caminito del Rey is described as follows:

“The day dawned cloudy, and a series of intermittent downpours marred the inauguration festivities and made the visit more painful, which already required a journey with stages by train and road. However, the king was cordial and in good humor and was pleased to listen to all the explanations that Benjumea gave him about the facilities, which he wanted to know in detail. A lunch was served for more than two hundred diners, to which personalities, authorities, engineers and journalists were invited. After dessert, the Minister of Public Works gave a speech in which he highlighted the importance of public works and the example that the El Chorro Reservoir represented for the nation, due to its success in harmonizing industrial and agricultural use. After lunch, in torrential rain, the King went to lay the last stone. For the King to sign the inauguration act, a table and an armchair carved in the same stone used in the construction of the reservoir had been provided. The act signed by Alfonso XIII reads as follows: During the reign of the Catholic Majesty of Alfonso XIII, on May 21, 1921, the works of the El Chorro Reservoir were completed, and the last stone was laid by the august hand of the Spanish monarch, by whose important life was vowed by all those who are honored by stamping their signature after that of His Majesty. After the ceremony, the King and his companions visited the Gaitanejo dam, and crossed the Balcón de los Gaitanes, which had been adorned with a garland held by four stuffed eagles, in which you could read: “To the King”.

The Caminito is a breathtaking walk.

Hopefully the following snaps will evoke the atmosphere and the views to be enjoyed as you walk along this marvellous balcony.

https://www.google.com/maps/@36.9162325,-4.7706384,0a,82.2y,233.17h,72.25t/data=!3m4!1e1!3m2!1sbsRvitme3IAsd_prHjLUDA!2e0?source=apiv3 Another way of enjoying the Caminito del Rey.

We had a longish walk to our bus stop on the banks of the Guadelmina, the river that used to flow through the city – very little flow now, the reasons for which we were to discover later.

En route we needed a little local assistance.

Then it was a KM walk to the gardens which took you above the Autovia.

The origins of La Concepcion Estate can be traced back to the joining together of several smaller estates along the banks of the River Guadalmedina to the north of the city of Malaga. Used for agricultural purposes, they were home to cereal crops, olive and almond trees, vines, and, most notably, citrus trees. The garden was created by the Marquis and Marchioness of the House of Loring, Jorge Loring Oyarzabal and Amalia Heredia Livermore, both of whom were born to well-known businessmen who came to the city to make their fortunes. According to the jurist Rodriguez de Berlanga, the idea for the garden originally came to them after they had visited a series of palaces, villas, parks, estates, and botanical gardens during their honeymoon in Europe seven years earlier. To bring it to life, they enlisted the services of a French gardener, Jacinto Chamoussent, whose skilled selection and acclimatisation of exotic plants was subsequently rewarded with numerous prizes.

In 1911, La Concepcion was sold to a husband and wife from Bilbao, Rafael Echevarria and Amalia Echevarrieta, who expanded the garden, adding new features such as the Nymph’s Stream, the Palm Tree Avenue and the Viewpoint which overlooks the city.

The garden has a great number of species and features, too many to do justice to,but here are some examples.

The administrator’s building housed many paintings of interest .

In the evening we met up with Camino aficionado and guidebook writer,Johnnie Walker for an often hilarious chat – I gather he over winters from Santiago’s rainy season here and plays the organ at a local,Jesuit Church-Salud John,it was great to meet up again .

We ended our day with a memorable meal at this restaurant.

It’s a mile or so from the apartment to get to the beach and plenty to remark at on the way.

After passing Plaza de la Merced, we came to the Roman theatre

We were then stopped in our tracks as we came across this enormous tree trunk.

We continued along the Paseo del Parque,a delightful stroll.

Saint Fiacre, was born in Ireland, in the early years of the 7th century, and is considered
the patron saint of gardeners, which is why we can find this mosaic in his memory in the Gardens of the Malaga Park, in the area that overlooks the beautiful Paseo de the priests and in front of the port gates.
The mosaic is attached to natural stones and surrounded by several of the oldest and most exotic species in the Park. No wonder Brid knew all about him.

We stopped for coffee at the Chiringuito Mami Beach

Walking back through Pedragalejo I noticed this traditional fishing boat which looked as if it had been recently renovated

Walking in the breezy sunshine is a thirst making process and so we climbed the steps up to a bar – La Odisea – ( need I translate ? ) The house glass gives a clue.

Walking up towards the start of the climb we passed an eye stopping house decorated by someone with a lot of bottle.

It was already warmer than forecast as we moved towards the Olletas district and signs of Spring.

A lot of this area is walled off and behind which is the Diocesan Seminary

The final part of the descent is along a paved pathway.

Jardines de la Puerta Oscura – this is a lovely area – thoughtful conservation and radical modern design.

We then walked towards the lighthouse

“Life’s a road full of ups and downs, but it’s the journey that makes the difference.” Every step we take, every decision we make, every challenge we face, all shapes us and makes us who we are. Life is an adventure and it takes courage to embark on it and keep going even when it gets tough. Life is precious and deserves to be lived with passion and determination. “

by Hape Kerkeling in “I’ll be gone”. Are you dreaming of the next Camino?

On the Camino as it passes through Carrión are shops,pharmacies, a Dia supermarket and a reputedly excellent outdoor store if you need to buy or replace anything. Cafe bar Espana on the main road opens for breakfast from 07.00. ( From a recently discovered online guide – “CaminoGuide.net”)

If the weather promises to be warm it might be advisable to get an early start as JB States : “ We pass through a flat..landscape with little or no shade. 70% is on gravel paths, most of which overlay the old paved Roman road,Via Aquitana that connected with Astorga. Anticipate no facilities between Carrión and Calzadilla (17.2 KM )….ensure your water flasks are full and have breakfast before you leave or bring something to eat with you.”

After a KM or so we are advised to ignore the alternative route,Antiguo Camino Frances along the N-120. We should head s/o along a quiet country road,passing the ruins of the once illustrious Franciscan Abbey, Abadia Santa Maria de Benvivere, known for its “good living” bene Vivere. JB

We come next to Fuente del Hospitalejo “ the Fuente no longer offers hospitality but this is provided shortly afterwards at Area des Descanso- rest area.

MIRAGES – “ the straight stretch of 17 Km running from Carrión de Los Condes to Calzadilla de la Cueza sometimes holds a surprise in store. Because of the heat and the refraction of light rays,objects ahead may seem to be floating on a liquid surface. This is an optical phenomenon which lasts only a few seconds.” SR

Calzadilla de la Cueza BB Recommends refuelling at the village bar – I don’t think we’ll need telling – it’s behind the albergue. A very popular bar and restaurant

On leaving Calzadilla we have again two choices for the last steps to Ledigos. Alongside the N.120 or turning left for a quiet woodland path. Note, there are not many waymarks, but JB gives a good description, P.160. After an ascent we descend into Ledigos our base and Albergue la Morena. “ A woman nicknamed La Morena ( the brunette) founded this private albergue; today her granddaughter and family carry on her work ethic…exceptional for its hospitality. They serve a great home cooked menu del Peregrino in the restaurant and bar.” BB

JUST A REMINDER ABOUT THE USEFUL REFERENCES IN THE BLOGWP – A Wise Pilgrim Guide to the Camino de Santiago from St Jean Pie SR – Sergi Ramis – Camino de Santiago ,The Ancient Way of Saint James…. BB – Moon – CAMINO DE SANTIAGO by Beebe Bahrami. JB – A PILGRIM’s GUIDE TO THE Camino de Santiago – John Brierley.

“To walk the Camino do I have to be: Catholic, Christian, holy, a believer in God?”

Before previewing this stage I should like to insert this message from JOHNNIE Walker, a friend of mine and Camino guide to thousands. As we are just beginning a new year I thought it was a really “ fresh” view.

“I’m often asked these and similar questions. Here is my answer:

The Camino is church

The Camino is the church where you just walk right in. Everyone is welcome, no questions asked.

The Camino is the church where it doesn’t matter whether you have faith, whether you are searching for answers or simply want to enjoy the experience.

The Camino is the church where apart from walking to Santiago, respecting the way, nothing else is compulsory.

The Camino is the church where everyone is equal. There are no bosses.

The Camino is the church where you can pray, think or meditate when you want. Or not!

The Camino is the church where every meal is a communion which includes everyone around the table.

The Camino is the church where the arrows will guide you, not tell you what to do.

The Camino is the church where to lighten the load you can forgive your own sins and those who have sinned against you.

The Camino is the church where the choir is the dawn chorus of birds in the trees and sheep bleating in the meadow.

The Camino is the church filled with people just like you where you can make life long friends.

The Camino is the church where the only peals are peals of laughter from pilgrims.”

Johnnie Walker

THE ROAD

Leaving Frómista is accomplished by retracing a few steps to the main intersection, do not blindly make your way through town and if you plan to leave before the sun rises do yourself the favor of scouting for arrows in advance. The trail here follows a gravel path punctuated by frequent “twin hitos” that are placed to discourage off-road vehicles from taking over the path. WP

JB recommends an alternative and quieter route from Poblacion ( nice bar ) via Villovieco following a tree lined riverside path “offering both shade and silence“. According to BB “ The river path is more appealing…where you’ll see stands of Poplar trees and rich bird life,including European robins,,canary-like serine’s,green woodpeckers,owls,hawks and falcons”.

“Carrión de los Condes has a rich and prosperous, to say nothing of colorful, history. Located at the intersection of the Pilgrimage road and the río Carrión it attracted merchants and a sizable population. Charlemagne is reported to have used the fields along the river as an encampment on his quest to control the pilgrimage route. Over a dozen pilgrim hospices once called Carrión home, and to this day you will find that many of the albergues are under the care of one religious order or another, the nuns of Santa María are known to sing to pilgrims.” WP

We continue on the riverside path towards Villalcazar de Sirga. It is “ well known for its hospitality having welcomed pilgrims since the XIIth century when it became a commandery of the Knights Templar. There is a popular Cafe- Bar opposite the church” JB

HISTORY

Carrión de los Condes has a rich and prosperous, to say nothing of colorful, history. Located at the intersection of the Pilgrimage road and the río Carrión it attracted merchants and a sizable population. Charlemagne is reported to have used the fields along the river as an encampment on his quest to control the pilgrimage route. Over a dozen pilgrim hospices once called Carrión home, and to this day you will find that many of the albergues are under the care of one religious order or another, the nuns of Santa María are known to sing to pilgrims. WP

Accomodation is at Hostal La Corte. “My husband and I stayed here on the 4th May while doing the Camino De Santiago The hotel was very well situated for the Camino. We were in the courtyard, which was lovely. The food at the restaurant was really good. We had the set menu of the day (vegetarian) for dinner. Breakfast was good. We had a nice stay.” INDEPENDENT REVIEW

his strength the more is.
No foes shall stay his might,
though he with giants fight;
he will make good his right
to be a pilgrim.” John Bunyan

To Be a Pilgrim,Maddy Prior :- https://youtu.be/EiSxSZ0s0AQ

I have never quite concluded (yet) whether I am a “Pilgrim”,or just an “ inquisitive person”. In the Thesaurus Plus,I found that the two descriptions are semantically related,mutual synonyms almost. You can find over 250 synonyms for Pilgrim – my favourites are “ mendicant”,” sojourner”,” wayfarer” and my all time best- “ saunterer”,one who walks on holy ground. There are not so many for “ inquisitive person” but I liked “ voyager”,” trailblazer” and “pathfinder”. Of course there are less flattering descriptions such as “ meddler” and “nosey parker”. For Pilgrim you can be seen as a “ gallivanter” or “ gadabout”.

The Camino has provided its own Lexicon too. We have “ Bicigrinos “ who favour bikes and “ Turigrinos’ who favour dipping in and out of the Caminos often by coach,or those who walk short stages unencumbered. We have our own description- ” Camigas” – Spanglish for “ friends on the Camino”

Our second stage is dominated by crossing the Meseta.

The word ‘Meseta’ means plateau in Spanish. So, the Meseta of Spain is a plateau of the Iberian Peninsula, also known as the Meseta Central. The western slope of this plateau is inclined towards the Atlantic Ocean and forms the basins of the rivers Duero, Tagus and Guadiana. The plateau rises into the Cantabrian Mountains to the north and it becomes a series of ranges towards the east. La Mancha occupies the southeastern section of the Meseta Central. In the northeast, a certain symmetry is formed by the tectonic troughs of the Ebro and in the south by the Guadalquivir.The central part of the peninsula divides the Meseta Central into two divisions, Castile-Leon, the high basin of the northern Meseta and the Castile-La Mancha and Extremadura in the lower plateaus of the southern Meseta.

B. I should be focussing mainly but not exclusively on the places we shall be stopping over en route,but to also look into to those places that we merely traverse on our itinerary.

FOR REFERENCE I SHALL BE USING THE FOLLOWING BOOKS

THE CAMINO FRANCES – The Pilgrim Guide – A Wise Pilgrim Guide WP

CAMINO DE SANTIAGO – Camino Frances by John Brierley JB

CAMINO DE SANTIAGO – by Sergi Ranis SR

15th May 2023 and the return to Burgos, a major city on the Frances.

MOON – CAMINO DE SANTIAGO by Beebe Balhranin. BB

WP. JB. SR. BB. Are shorthand for reference points in the following narratives.

HISTORY

Burgos was originally founded at the end of the 9th century in a bid to repopulate these northern plains.  From the expulsions of the Muslims (around the end of the 11th century) it quickly became one of Castilla’s most important city. It was here that the Catholic Kings Isabel and Ferdinand welcomed home Christopher Columbus after his second voyage to the new world, and it was here where General Francisco Franco was publicly proclaimed as Generalísimo in 1936 and which would serve as the dictators base of operations until the end of the civil war.

Set along the wonderful río Arlanzon, the city was built with massive walls and even more massive gates. In spite of this, the territory of Burgos (but more to the point Castilla) was widely disputed. The seed for much of the fighting was the will of King Fernando-I, who although wise enough to rule over the northern regions, was not too clever in managing his estate. He chose to divide the north into three regions upon his death, with each region going to a different heir.

Alfonso VI received León, García received Galicia, Sancho II received Castilla, and his daughter Urracareceived the city of Zamora.

More land disputes followed and in the end it was Alfonso that reigned over the whole territory and was crowned the emperor of the Iberian Peninsula. This was at the end of 11th century, and the wealth collected by Alfonso from tariffs throughout the peninsula was transformed into palaces and a Cathedral, catapulting Burgos into prosperity.

Burgos is also the home of El Cid, a fierce warrior, and cunning politician. He was banished from the city by King Alfonso for having forced him to take an oath attesting to his innocence in the death of his brother Sancho. El Cid would eventually turn down an invitation to return and fight for Alfonso, and instead traveled east to Valencia where he maneuvered himself into a kingdom of his own. He is now buried in the Cathedral.

The Hotel Norte y Londres ** is in the heart of Burgos, in the pedestrian plaza de Alonso Martínez, just 150 meters from the Cathedral, the statue of El Cid and the shopping and tapas area. This is our starting point for the second stage of our Camino. It is featured in Brierley’s guidebook, P.131. Eleven minute walk from the bus station .

LEAVING BURGOS

THE ROAD

The road out of Burgos is, thankfully, much shorter than the road in. The camino from here enters the meseta, with its endless plains of wheat. The landscape, while seemingly unremarkable, offers a wealth of flora and fauna and opportunities for peaceful contemplation. Do not underestimate it, for this is where the second third of the camino begins, the part of the camino which tones your mind . Once at the far end of Burgos be wary of misleading signs (some quite official looking) that point the way to Villabilla. That town has been severed from camino traffic by the construction of a rail track and some efforts have been made to surreptitiously reconnect it. WP The Practical Path – We leave behind the built environment and enter the relative wilderness of the sublime Meseta JB Go down to the Gate Hospital del Rey,leaving the old walled quarters of the city behind. Eventually crossing the river Arlanzon and onwards along the valley SR.PS . In a little over 10 KM we come to Tardajos – Cafe bar Ruiz recommended BB.

TARDAJOS.

Passing through Tardajos, along the shortest path possible, the average pilgrim would be forgiven for overlooking its historical significance.

In fact, Tardajos lies at the intersection of the two primary and ancient trade routes that bisected this land. It was once a walled city and had three magnificent churches. Only one, the Iglesia de Santa María, remains.

Tardajos, like Rabé de las Calzada (ahead), also had a castle on a hill.

THE ROAD

The camino departs from the main road in Tardajos and from here you won’t return to anything resembling a busy road until Frómista, do not be tempted to keep on the main road but rather cross the street and pass through the village. WP

Passing through Rabe de las Calzadas ( once the junction of two Roman roads) a stamp may be obtained in the Iglesia de Santa Marina. BB. The Fuente de Prao Torre – a picnic area whose fountain may be dry? Pedras Sagradas 4KM on are mounds and cairns built by passing pilgrims from the local stark-white fieldstones.BB The Camino continues stretching to the horizon to a high point on the Meseta before descending steeply down the aptly named Mule-Killer Slope Cuesta Matamulas.JB

Hornillos de Camino

Hornillos is one of the best examples of a “Royal” camino road: in this case one long street (the aptly named calle real) stretched out along the camino. This layout allowed every building to face the camino, a trait which reminds us that the current heavy development along the camino is anything but a new phenomenon. The town once belonged to the monastery of St. Denis and was home to a Benedictine community.

Folklore places Charlemagne here too, baking bread for his troops along the river.

Ruins and medieval bridges are the only visible remains.WP The name Hornillos derives from kiln or oven – the diminutive “ illos “ suggesting a small stove. A peaceful place JB A gentle climb follows climbing back up to the Meseta. Further on lies the classic pilgrim town of Hontanas which appears almost by surprise as it lies in a hollow and is therefore not visible until you are practically on top of it…and our accommodation for the night.

And so ends day one of our second stage.

THE TRAVELLING WILBURYS – The End of the Linehttps://music.youtube.com/watch?v=stxftCSiVBc&feature=share. “Well it’s all right, riding around in the breeze
Well it’s all right if you live the life you please
Well it’s all right, doing the best you can
Well it’s all right, as long as you lend a hand”.

A short break with some long standing friends in Marlow. We were taken for a visit to the characterful village of Cookham.

A walk along the Thames towpath is always enjoyable and all the more so in benign Autumnal weather.

Apparently, this property was apparently being considered for purchase by Frank Lampard; the call of Merseyside must have been too strong to resist.

Leaving the towpath we walked through Churchgate.

Then into Holy Trinity Churchyard.

Holy Trinity, Cookham, is nestled in the east side of the village, a place famous for being the birthplace and residence of the British painter Stanley Spencer.

It was only a short walk to the Stanley Spencer Gallery where there are a variety of exhibitions of Spencer’s work each year.

Each exhibit was accompanied by explanatory texts and it soon became obvious that Stanley Spencer had a unique talent and a love of the natural world that he revered in and around the village.

There is an unfinished mural in the gallery depicting Christ at the Cookham Regatta.

His adult life was troubled – a needless divorce, an unconsummated hasty second marriage which ended no sooner than it had begun. The article below throws some light on the effects of his relationships on his two daughters in particular.

https://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/4722278/We-could-have-been-happy.html

From the Gallery it was a short walk to the house of some friends of our friends! This house and gardens has links with Spencer but to our delight we were invited in for tea and biscuits and made friends with a lovely dog.

Our host also showed us around his recording studios – being a music fan I was fascinated and impressed. There were awards on the walls signifying some very successful popular song writing – this was one such.

“ Would I Lie to You”, by Charles and Eddie https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=jTUVlYZRr90&feature=share

At last I can say I’ve been in a recording studio,even if I never got to make a record!

Last full day in ALVOR and here are some of the things that we’ll miss.

Coffee at the beach bar.

The Apartment which was full marks!

The bad news is that we’re coming home to this…

There was plenty to enjoy by way of alleyways and tiles.

It was the Romans who built the first town walls around Lagos and these were reinforced during the Arab and later Christian occupations of the town. The substantial city walls still form a protective ring around the old historic centre of Lagos date from 16th century, a time when raids by Barbary pirates were all too common and the threat from Spain turned out to be all too real.

The city is most visited for its beaches and nightlife which can be very boisterous in peak season – the beaches looked very inviting.

He was a 14 th century saint born in Lagos.

Another fortification right on the front and guarding the entrance to the city.

If I had to take to the waters I think this would be my preferred mode of sea faring – I loved the busy waterways.

We visited the Mercado which is on three levels.

I bought this grater on the first floor – a handcrafted “ fair trade” product

Then it was back through the streets to the bus station for a comfortable ride back to Alvor by coach for all of €4.5.