Archive | Uncategorized RSS feed for this section

Campagnano di Roma to La Giustiniana,Monday,23 rd June

24 Jun

To avoid a long, knee – testing descent, we took a short bus ride to Formello – the guide book informed us that it would be the last place of any real interest until,we reached Rome.

A real pot of tea to begin the day.
Looking across to the Porto in Formello where we picked up,the Via Francigena route.
A Trompe L’oeil.
Attached to two houses on a tiny piazza .

Pathway out and down from Formello.

Arriverderci Formello – a pretty, tranquil commune.
Beehives – always reassuring to see these.
A Prickly Pear Bush in flower – a rare sight.
Close up.

We walked in to the Veio National Nature Reserve/ Park.

A green lung with wildlife and archaeological beauty

With nearly 15,000 hectares, the Veio Regional Natural Park extends north of Rome between the Via Flaminia and Via Cassia and includes the so-called Agro Veientano. It is the fourth largest park in Lazio and covers an area of natural, historical and cultural interest. It includes the municipalities of Campagnano di Roma, Castelnuovo di Porto, Formello, Magliano Romano, Mazzano Romano, Morlupo, Riano, Sacrofano and the 15th Municipality of the Province of Rome. The network of trails is signposted by the CAI and covers 99 kilometres, including the Via Francigena.

Walking in…
A lot of our pathway was along this track.
It was like being on a rolling switchback.
This is the most impressive sight in then Veio, by an ancient mill.
We crossed the bridge to make our way eventually to a an unexpected and welcome cafe
It also had a little swimming pool attached – very inviting but we had no kit!

The last section of the walk was through La Storta – a forgettable car dominated suburb – walking along the busy Via Cassia – after a couple of uncomfortable KM, to our hotel for the night. it was up a quiet road, passing the Tunisian Embassy- no photos allowed ; two well armed soldiers on guard.

Resort La Rocchetta

You had to ring through two electronic gates for access. A very helpful receptionist- excellent English – difficult to work,out why it was called a “ resort “ – pleasant place , but no bar only a machine with no beer! And no pool. No evening meals. Being a Monday meant walking back down to the Via Cassia to bar 421, which was situated between the aforesaid main road and the commuter railway line into Rome – amicable staff and good draught beer,plus Prosecco for you know who!

We then traipsed along to a Trattoria where we had a decent meal and two brave pilgrims tried Trippa all a Romana,.

Me? I stuck to Polpettini.

SUTRI TO CAMPAGNANO DI ROMA TO SUNDAY 22 nd June.

23 Jun
Leaving Sutri, we were soon in the “ sticks”. Now I know why there is so much Bamboo grown hereabouts.
Onwards and downwards.
A lot of the first part of the walk went through here.
Leaving Sutri behind
Rather forlorn looking donkey
Not much to see on this stage either
Some open countryside on an overcast morning
R F in red pointed the way – signage not been upto scratch this morning
Every property is gated and locked even those not as ornamental as these..
A local,filling up,is always a good sign. This fountain is directly in front of the Internazionale school of Golf.
Rear of headquarters
Nearing Monterosi
Came across this bar – to a gorgeous welcome and cooling refreshments,also we caught up with June,Tom and Rob.
Walking up Monterosi’s Main Street
June saying “ Come on you lot,I’ve got a bus to catch”
Trying to keep up
Interesting rooftop,and view
The bus stop
Looking out for the bus

ALBERGO BENIGNI – Our accommodation for this evening and a date with an old friend from Sutton Coldfield Ramblers of a few years back,who now works in Rome .

Dr Caterina Cattel
We had a great catch up
A jazz night on the terrace to accompany dinner – he was a cool guy.
Retiring inside.
June and Tom continuing the fun!

DAY XII ON THE VIA FRANCIGENA, SATURDAY 21st June. 11.5 miles from Vetrella to Sutri,via Capranica.

22 Jun

Mike and I left at 07.30, making our way up and up and out of Vetrella.

There’s festival taking place – sorry to miss it as the Main Street looks as though it’s going to be lively in this “ enchanted city”.
And Woman!
Huge Francigena mural as we reached the top of the hill out of Vetrella

The municipality of Vetralla (province of Viterbo, Lazio) is located along the Via Francigena at 300 metres above sea level. Known for its characteristic medieval village and the woods of the Cimini mountains – the green lung of Tuscia – it is a land of important Etruscan, Roman, and Barbarian settlements and has a rich artistic and archaeological heritage. 
In this borgo, along Via Francigena stage 42 Vetralla-Sutri, the mural ‘Il Cammino’ (The Way) created by painter Alessandro Ridolfi has just been completed. The artwork was realised on the initiative of a committee of local volunteers to enhance the places crossed by the Via Francigena in Vetralla.

The work depicts three different moments of the route travelled by the wayfarer, namely the departure from Canterbury, the first stage of the official itinerary, the stop in Vetralla, and the arrival in Rome, the final destination of the pilgrims on their way to the Vatican along the Italian section, before continuing on to Santa Maria di Leuca on the Via Francigena in Southern Italy.

Into the forest – for a while it was like SuttonPark but without the dogs.
Lots of welcome shade.
Leaving the district or county of Vetrella.

Our main objective is to get to Capranica

Leaving the forest we walked alongside and through Hazelnut trees.
Still some shade
A shady bench – better facilities along this stretch but no water.
To our surprise and relief we came upon Capranica suddenly – much better than thinking “ Oh.2 more KM to do!”
A warm ( literally welcome.
SUTRI

A charming village in Tuscia, Sutri has ancient origins dating back to the Bronze Age . It reached its maximum expansion starting from the period of Etruscan domination. Since 2019 it has been among the most beautiful villages in Italy and has received the Orange Flag from the Italian Touring Club , a prestigious quality mark for tourism-environmental development.

Main square and Porto Romano

https://civitavecchia.portmobility.it/it/cosa-vedere-sutri-lantichissimo-borgo-della-tuscia Some tips on what to see in Sutri.

Then the evening..

Balloons and flags festooned along the Main Street and square – a festival looming.
Every little piazza
Every business involved
Classy dancers
Comparing fans..
No introduction needed.
The dinner venue where Nina was rushed off her feet but we all had good cannelloni, lasagne and something like vegetable arancini..Buonissimo.

DAY XI ON THE VIA FRANCIGENA FRIDAY 20th JUNE. VITERBO TO VETRELLA,11.26 Miles.

20 Jun
Taken in the Museum,yesterday,with a couple more taken last night
Appreciate the message on the bag.
No it’s not a cake! It was my dinner in a tiny restaurant near the hotel. It was young heifer with tuna sauce and caper berries – the red cabbage was a treat,too.
Leaving Viterbo – Some noble fountains here

We made our way down past the cathedral to the start and before very long we were walking along a very interesting stretch of Highway.


The Vie Cave, or “excavated roads,” are a network of ancient paths carved into the soft, volcanic rock (tuff) of the Maremma region in southern Italy. While not directly in Viterbo, they are nearby and easily accessible, and the area around Viterbo is known for its similar tuff formations and Etruscan history. These roads, likely of Etruscan origin, served multiple purposes, including transportation, defense, and possibly even religious rituals. 
Quite narrow at the top at times but providing good shade.
History and Purpose: 
Etruscan Origins:
The Vie Cave are primarily attributed to the Etruscans, an ancient civilization that thrived in central Italy before the rise of Rome. 
Transportation:
The roads likely served as vital pathways connecting settlements, necropolises (cemeteries), and agricultural areas. 
Defense:
Some theories suggest the deep, narrow trenches offered protection against invaders, acting as natural fortifications. 
Water Management:
The intricate system of trenches may have also helped manage rainwater runoff, channeling water away from settlements. 
Religious Significance:
Some scholars propose that the Vie Cave held spiritual or ritualistic importance, with evidence of sacred symbols and niches found along the paths. 
Re-use:
The Etruscan-built roads were later used and modified by the Romans, medieval populations, and even in more recent times. 
Not the most photogenic walk thus far ,but we had a break at this picnic bench – rare but always welcome.
Already in the high twenties
Lazio – the soil a different hue; with some hills to view.
Irrigation methods on a grand scale.
A Hazelnut plantation.
The increasingly numerous Olive groves
After a short, stiff climb we came upon a viewpoint looking towards the West and the Med. apparently.
Butterfly having a break
I really like this form of naive artwork – it reminded me of a visit to the Museum of Naive Art in Zagreb,Croatia.
Rough rather than naive..
Last views before descent into rows of Olive groves as we neared Vetrella .
This little spot by a gateway offered a “timbro“ – a stamp for your pilgrim passport
There was also a notebook inviting you to offer your thoughts on the Via Francigena.
Fruit trees of some description made a change from the olives .
A wine store on the last leg ( and ours ) of today’s trail.
After 11.26 miles we were relieved to be there – it’s not so much the distances or the terrain – it’s the heat …33* @ 14.00.
Our digs for tonight
A very relaxing space – the garden – bright, refurbished rooms, too. The first real rain we have experienced started at 17.00 – some thunder – finishing by 19.00. Forecast for the remainder of the week is in the 30s

We had an enjoyable evening at a local bar then restaurant.

All in .

Thanks to Christina for some of the photos.

( REST) DAY X ON THE VIA FRANCIGENA. IN VITERBO – “ The City of Popes” – A City of two contrasting halves.

19 Jun
A mural in the city

Comparing these photos from yesterday afternoon’s arrival.

Car heavy and the usual commercial centre..

With our experiences on our “ free day”…total contrast

But first it is worth capturing a little of a memorable meal had yesterday evening at our host’s Ristorante

It is set in the cloister of an old convent – La Chimera

A corner of what was the cloister
A model of Our Lady of Lourdes at the end of the restaurant corridor recalling its origins.
My BBQ mixed grill.

During our meal an accordionist appeared and walked along playing ( to me ) unrecognisable tunes. He stopped at the next table and began playing “ Happy Birthday to You” – inevitably we joined in to much apppause – the young lady who was celebrating her 25 th birthday came round with a bottle of Prosecco .

25 today,25 today! What a smile.

Thursday morning, No rush, no alarm,no packing- it’s a free day and what better place in Tuscia to be than Viterbo? Free means doing your own thing so three of us set off, after a leisurely breakfast, to find the tourist office on one of the main squares. We arrived to find it was closed and “ moving premises”. Undaunted ,we easily found our first destination close by with the unexpected help of two lifts

We bought our discounted tickets by showing our Pilgrim Passports for entry to the Museum, the Cathedral and the Papal Palace, complete with headset .
The Cathedral – notice how deserted the square is and it was to be like that during our self- guided tour.
The Papal Palace
An embossed doorway.
I’ve included this plaque for Rob, our multi linguist and devotee of Spaghetti Carbonara!

https://www.visitacity.com/en/viterbo/attractions/viterbo-cathedral

I’ve just attached some examples in the photos. The above link gives more detail of the beautiful place.

A particularly striking bust.

https://www.archeoares.it/en/the-cathedral-museum/ A good link to the sections of the museum.

The story of the Conclave is fascinating.

https://www.viterbotoday.it/attualita/conclave-regole-storia-7-maggio-2025.html a link to last month’s conclave .

The interior of the Papal Palace.with a link,below

https://www.archeoares.it/musei/viterbo/polo-monumentale-colle-del-duomo/

After three tours we were ready for a break and followed this street.
A quiet Piazza
An Americano and ginger beer – you should try it .
Vista
We made our way to,the Medieval Quarter.
Lots of these alleyways off this street

Some attractive shops

Moving on under archways
Artist at work
Floral steps
Making our way to a green area
In the shade
This place translated as a resort.We walked on above it along the road
Four Towers
Un appezzamento di terreno – an allotment- what a setting
We decided we needed some lunch at this point.
Passing another Marian Grotto
A great Porchetta Panini purchased from here
A fountain dominated the piazza where we had our lunch stop in the shade.
Walking towards our hotel.
We entered the Pilgrims’ office and the device above had been used in 2024 to transport a disabled Pelegrina with a team of four in assistance.- quite some effort I should think.
Tomorrow we have choice of two routes out of Viterbo to Vetrella – we shall take the route recommended in the Guide Book which happily happens to be 5 KM shorter.

DAY IX ON THE VIA FRANCIGENA. MONTEFIASCONE TO VITERBO 18:KM WED.18th June 2025

18 Jun
Leaving Montefiascone at its highest point
A pleasant garden with great views
The lake
Cathedral Dome
Then we began a long and steep descent
Looking Back
Cornflowers
Stunning colours
A Marian Shrine

We soon came to the Roman basoli paved path which stretches almost unbroken for nearly 3 km. For two thousand years this has been the passage for kings, emperors, soldiers and merchants.

Look closely – soldier ants on the march bearing crops

All disappearing down the hole.
An impressive railway bridge. Where the district of Viterbo begins
A good thought and farewell

Relieved to come upon this picnic bench as there was nowhere to sit this morning and sadly that has been typical of our experiences so far on the Francigena. It is understandable that there are no cafes between towns and villages as there is no footfall except for pilgrims and the numbers would never be enough to support bars etc.However, some seating would be much appreciated- not all,of us like sitting on the floor and even that option is not always available- beware ants😅.

Jubilee year marker stone. Just after leaving this picnic spot I began to feel an ache in my right hip – nothing new but I suspect it was the aftermath of that Kilometre long descent.Although there was not a great deal,of distance to go on what had been an enjoyable walk so far,I felt increasingly uneasy as there is still a week’s walking to do,notwithstanding the rest day tomorrow in Viterbo. After a few minutes we came across a main road and to my relief there was a bus stop – a pleasant young man was waiting there and he assured me that a bus for Viterbo was due. We always said “ The Camino Provides”. As I boarded, I went to offer my credit card but the driver waved me through! It was a long walk from the bus station up to the old town.
Turning right after entering the Porto Romano, I followed the phone’s directions for some time – it was quite complicated- eventually I reached the B&B Palacio Romario.
I couldn’t make head nor tails of the phone numbers and so I sat down on the edge of the old washing baths opposite the entrance. Fortunately again, after a few minutes, the owner just happened to pop his head out and on spying me , he beckoned me in and in no time at all I was in our room. After a long drink,a banana and a couple of painkillers I feel OK…Thanks Mike for the Roman road photos.
We have a rest day tomorrow and time to explore what is reputedly a very historic and beautiful old city.

Day VIII on the FRANCIGENA 17/06 to MONTEFIASCONE; 17 KM FROM BOLSENA.

17 Jun
Or so they say….
Lots of shade, undulating walk with some climbs albeit we are walking alongside the lake ,but on a ridge for the most part.
Noisy waterfall spilling into the lake
The end of the lake.
We thought this looked an inviting stop until we got close to the pipe where it warned not drinkable ! A Bummer.
Last glimpses of the lake for now.
We reached Montefiascone around 13.30 ; 11 miles enjoyable walking with a decent hill to finish!
This little city must be one of the most underrated and less known. We were very impressed by the history and culture plus the friendliness of the local people.
The Cathedral
Pelegrinos
Lake scene after a hefty shower.

Sunset from the balcony of restaurant Dante – a somewhat chaotic dining experience – but what views.

Thanks to Christina for some of the photos

Acquapendente to BOLSENA. Day VII Monday,16 June. Shorter walk;lift on local bus to San Lorenzo Nuovo,to avoid overheating! 7.5 miles- lovely walk.

17 Jun
Leaving Acquapendente – bus services are good and very cheap compared to taxis – today’s fare was €1.10.

Walking along the usual gravel road,very little traffic.

First glimpses of Lake BOLSENA
Papal Swiss Guard commemorative plaque in a remote spot.
Not quite sure about this!
The lake
A kind of geranium growing on the path
Poppies
Break time in the garden of a deserted villa.
Reaching the outskirts
We were totally surprised by what we found inside this humble looking chapel

FRESCOES EVERYWHERE …

Onwards towards BOLSENA
The “ sticks” in the background are actually Garlic!
The Castle
In the fountain
Quiet time – Siesta
San Christina – our very own Pelegrino !
Nearing the hotel- another Agrismo.
Hydrangeas are popular in BOLSENA
Another fabulous pool setting
June and Christina relaxing after a swim

Christina suggested we have a picnic supper overlooking the lake on a table close-by our rooms. Four of us went down to a Carrefour Express which supplied all our needs and we set the fare out alfresco style with our saint’s very own wine

And very pleasant it was,too.
Wearing Hannah’s Father’s Day present!
Sunset at the end of a very enjoyable day and feast.

Thanks Christina and Mike for some of the photos

Fathers’Day VI. on the Via Francigena. Sunday,15 the June. From Radocafani to Acquapendente avoiding a knee torturing descent.

15 Jun
Heartwarming cards and presents from Hannah,Daniel and Tom for Fathers’ Day. Great way to begin the day.

Awake at just after 06.00.

Routines are essential for Camino preparation and begin the night before by getting all the packing done barring what is needed for the morning. This includes supplements to take after breakfast, socks and feet bag ready, walking poles by the door so they are not forgotten! It’s important to remember any washing that may be hanging around somewhere. After a shave, attention turns to feet preparation which includes massaging Vaseline into toes and any sensitive spots, putting on polyester toe caps ,a dusting of tea tree powder then trail shoes on. Gear on next, then two aluminium water containers to which soluble hydration tablets are added,plus an other litre bottle of water – all placed in day rucksack along with any other bits and pieces after an application of sun cream. Put all electric leads in case – close it , check the room for any forgotten items – take the case to reception for collection by luggage transfer to that evening’ s hotel, then breakfast usually at 07.00 -07.30 . Hoping to be on the trail for 08.00 most days.

Now after all,that excitement,today’ s stroll.

Sloways, our travel company booked two taxis to take us upto the summit of Radocafani.

An amazing setting.

San Petro
The altar piece
A view from the walls
A striking statue.

The previous evening it was decided to take taxis down from Radocafani as the descent was 500 metres of steep tracks . Not a great distance, but it would help preserve our knees for the next ten days’ walking.

“A Long and Winding Road…” as they sang so memorably.

The Beatles :https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=fR4HjTH_fTM&si=Yisa5ZLiwwT0aySQ

An old road
Two very dry river beds.

Crossing from Tuscany into Lazio.

The piazza near to our digs in Acquapendente.
Locals’ Sunday papers’ Reading club
Our nearby piazza
Our digs- in a family run hotel,of nine rooms.
At about 15.30 as forecast there was a short storm and a spot of rain .
Plenty of water for the fountains behind our place.
After the storm subsided I went for a stroll. View from the walls.
Rapturous sculpture
You can just pick out the Basilica to the left from here.
A cooling Zuppi Inglese.
Artwork underneath town hall arches
As promised ,Tom’s Fathers’ Day present – a Wolves themed T-shirt in iconic Old Gold and Black – our present Portuguese manager appointed last year to save us from relegation; which he did. He famously goes to local pubs and mixes in.Great guy and an excellent coach.

A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE. Day V walking from Castiglione towards Radocafani- shortened to 8 miles , so I am told.

14 Jun
Fountain express – a Tuscan special meal – yesterday’s bread and bean soup – a speciality.

This morning we left our homely B&B to have breakfast ( included) at a small Trattoria in this piazza.

A traditional breakfast was enjoyed there,though the choice of teas was a guessing game!
June joined us from her hotel as it was planned to cut down the length of today’s walk by taking to 09.18 bus to Abbadia San Salvatore. I got the front seat and we drovec down sinuous county roads and serpentine bends with the driver nonchalantly using one hand most of the time . It was only when we disembarked at Abbadia that I realised we were the only passengers.

After a coffee stop on this busy town it was,decision time.

Fountains rule opposite our cafe. There was no option but to use Mapy.com to enable a short cut off the Francigena route. I must admit to being somewhat dubious because main routes are made to enable a safe passage, however, the walk began simply enough.

A wall,of wild flowers.
A stream which we crossed safely over a concrete bridge .
The path was beginning to disintegrate.
We then came upon a stream running across our way. Not too deep thankfully.
But uninvitingly slimy – we all got cross with our socks dry.
From this point on and for a long,uphill,stretch the vegetation became as challenging as the Rocky underfoot conditions. We managed to help,each other across a metre drop onto a small dry stream bed.
Yes the views were still enticing.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=oG6fayQBm9w&si=Aix-DW-nwyT2xoKT

After what seemed an endless climb we emerged on a typical white path – TG.
Yellow flora my favourite colour.
A caterpillar crossed my path – these have a very unpleasant sting.
These were popular with bees
I used my bog standard App. Earlier which reassured us were close to our accommodation.
La Selvella Agriturismo. A wonderful setting.
What a relief after a really hard walk to relax here for a couple of hours

Dinner was served under an ancient tree – it was a very good meal served with panache and a smile . I can’t speak highly enough of enough of the help given to me by the receptionist in acquiring two,taxis to take the group down from the heights of Radificoni the next day as there were no buses on Sundays.

You can see why.
← Older Entries
Newer Entries →