BEGINNING WITH ASTORGA AND A FREE DAY

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=EdBIZNXLFDw&si=v9qfOcfxa2OuPYh7

There have been a number of Pelegrinos on our Camino Frances,which began in 2022. June,Anita,Mary,Sue and Ranjit walked one or two of the previous stages but are no longer walking the Way. Hopefully,they have happy memories and can be proud of what they achieved.

However, we have new recruits! Joining us are Val,Myra, Richard and Ray from Solihull Ramblers,together with Christina of Sutton Coldfield Ramblers. This makes a group of nine including Tom,Rob, Mike and myself. There are going to be some memorable stretches on this final saunter !

My thoughts for all of us on the walk are better expressed by R D Laing:

“There is nothing in the world more enjoyable than to be in communion with another human being. This has nothing to do with technique. Once it is there it is a field – a sort of force field that is not to be discovered within the investigative competence of science. So I will have to call it spiritual. It is the tuning into a spiritual field that is always there. It has to do with attunement – two instruments getting in tune with each other – harmonising. It is quite an experience. In Christian terminology the name they have given to this healing force is the Holy Ghost. Holy means healthy and spirit means ghost. There is a healthy spirit that exists in us and between us and that is the only healing power that exists as far as I know. It exists not just between us as a single species – but throughout the whole of creation”.

From a speech he gave entitled, ‘Beyond science’- to a spiritual healing power” which caused much controversy at the time.

Also, to bear in mind a more earthy piece of advice – “To Walk Ten Days With Someone is Like Living Together for Ten Years!” Let’s hope it doesn’t age us that much.

PRACTICAL DETAILS

We fly to Madrid on our rearranged flight ( by Ryanair) from Birmingham on 05/06/2024, flight 2083,departing at 14.15 and arrive in Madrid at 17.45 ( note the hour time difference). We shall stay at Fly Rooms Hotel near Barajas .

Hopefully we can eat at the same restaurant we used on our departure last year – Barajas is a pleasant enough town considering its proximity to the airport. The next morning we leave for Astorga – our starting point from the Camino – transport TBA soon. 6-8th June, we have two nights at Imprenta Musical Alojamiento in Astorga.

Pliny called Astorga an urbs magnifica. It has Asturian and Roman origins. In time the city became an important intersection of two Caminos – The Via de la Plata and the Camino Frances – it is also a popular starting point for the Camino for Spanish pilgrims. The city is actually built over its early Asturian and Roman origins . Much of the Roman Wall is still intact. Astorga also marks the beginning of the territory known as the Maragateria,home of a people called Maragatos.

The Maragateria is defined by a unique culture of strong mountain people, including arrieros ( traditional muleteers ) who transported goods over the mountains before there were railways and trucks. They were also key to Astoria’s rebirth as a centre for chocolate making – the city has a Museo de Chocolate- 5 minute walk outside the city walls.

It is also famous for its hearty fare which would make a great dinner.

You can work up an appetite for that by taking a tour of the city. Here is a useful link to guide you on the way round.

https://londontraveller.org/2019/11/09/walk-around-astorga-roman-town/

The Turismo,adj.Hotel GAUDI has maps available too.

Don’t miss the GAUDI Palace and the Cathedral- take your pilgrim passport with you for impressive stamps.

Along the top of Astorga’s western ramparts runs a popular promenade looking out towards an imposing range of mountains- the Montes de Leon.

BIBLIO: I found a great deal of interest and information from the following books :-

MOON “ CAMINO de SANTIAGO….By Beebe Bahrami

Camino de Santiago – Camino Frances ….By John Brierley

THE CAMINO FRANCES – A Wise Pilgrim Guide

THE ROAD TO SANTIAGO….Michael Jacobs

CAMINO DE SANTIAGO – Village to Village Guide….Anna Dintaman and David Landis.

And of course The Internet! Especially useful for photos.

Unless stated,I shall be using the above for all further “ Previews”.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=EdBIZNXLFDw&si=_M32IgyAWsFeg-Cd

“ There’s Gold in Them Hills” by Ron Sexsmith.

Surprisingly it was back to the buses for the second day in Thessaloniki. The first boat did not depart from PEREA until 11.45. Thankfully there was not the congestion on the buses nor the roads until the last two stops before we alighted by the White Tower. It looked like a steepish walk uphill to the Heptapyrgion of Thessaloniki, or Castle as we called it. There was a peaceful coffee stop en route adjacent to some ruins and away from the road.

We continued the walk upwards at one point between two cemeteries one of which was designated “ The Protestant Cemetery “

The fortress has towered over the city of Thessaloniki, Greece, for over 1,000 years. It was first constructed during the Byzantine era (330 AD to 1453 AD), although this most recent version was rebuilt by the Ottomans after they conquered the city in the 1400s. It goes by a few names: Heptapyrgion, Eptapyrgio, and Yedi Kule, all of which mean “Fortress of Seven Towers.” It’s a bit of a misnomer, though, as the fortress actually has 10 towers.

ACROPOLIS-EPTAPYRGIO

The Thessaloniki Acropolis lies in the northeastern and highest point of the city, just beyond Vlatadon Monastery and inside the northen wall of the city, which is in a relatively good state of preservation. Two big gates, the “portares”, lead inside the Acropolis which was the second line of defence in case of siege of the city. Next to the east gate as it leads outside the Acropolis, at the corner of the northen and eastern walls, the tower of Trigonio (or Pyrovolio) dominates and offers magnificient views of the city. All in all it is a huge site, there are 4 kilometres of walls still intact.

The Heptapyrgion of Thessaloniki has grown and changed over the centuries, absorbing the architectural influence of the many cultures, communities, and political dynasties that have made Thessaloniki the diverse city it is today. While it has spent the past 25 or so years as a tourist attraction and a UNESCO world heritage recognized site, it’s final function for the century or so before its ‘retirement’ was as a prison – a bit of a gloomy period for an otherwise magnificent building.

To the Greeks, Heptapyrgion is haunted by memories of turbulent periods within their recent history. The fortress held political prisoners during troubled times like the fascist dictatorship of 1936, the years of Nazi occupation and the civil war that followed it, and the seven year-long military junta that began in 1967. Those interned there faced harsh conditions. Torture was common, and hundreds of inmates were executed at an infamous spot not far from the fortress.

Acropolis means upper city and there are people still living up here.

After spending some time meandering around the rest of the site – it takes a fair amount of time and energy, it was back down to the port side and finally to hitch a ride on the taxi boat.

After leaving the busy cafe lined beach of PEREA , the walk was along quiet stretches of deserted sand, with intermittent houses and apartments.

We were intrigued by two blue domes in the distance and after a coffee stop we were surprised to find that it was a very grand hotel. The Santa Beach Hotel,in fact.

No competition and € 108 a night for a twin,including breakfast. Some might say fair enough.

AGYA TRIADA, the next village was a contrast to PEREA. It was reminiscent of Crete – quiet lanes off the front and a pedestrianised area with a few traditional Tavernas.

Leaving the village we passed some contrasting scrub and a derelict site ( not pictured )which was difficult to determine . The tarmac ended and the trail narrowed as we began to ascend the cliff-side.

The views were worth the climb.

The scenery changed into quite arable smallholdings, interspersed with cottages. There were vineyards and Olive groves.

Then it was a retracing of our steps to Perea, admiring this bountiful collection of flora en route.

TWO DAYS LATER…A CONTRASTING WALK IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION.

There was a long stretch of beach mostly deserted and it became apparent why there were no hotel nor beachside facilities except for the odd bin. The beach was strewn with seaweed and there was a steepish drop – too great for little ones – perhaps the proximity of the airport was another factor.

The road was closed at what we presumed was the edge of Thessaloniki airport

The only other sight of interest was this restaurant that seemed to be attached to airforce living quarters

Thankfully we returned to the sunbeds and cold drinks at Paso’s,our now regular bar and beach hire spot.

1 Thessalonians 4:12

“so that you will behave properly toward outsiders and not be in any need”

Well just to make clear we did not decide upon Thessaloniki as a result of St Paul’s exhortations to the Thessalonians,but because of its reputation as a hospitable and historic city. Furthermore, researches beyond the New Testament convinced us that the nearby town of PEREA and its beaches might be the best base. After four days here, including a day in Thessaloniki, it is proving to be worthwhile research.

After a “ Silly O’ Clock” departure from Birmingham, easy passage through security , we arrived at our apartment in PEREA at 12.30. After some confusion about finding the keys, we climbed the stairs and quickly took stock – the three balconies looked great.

A light lunch in an impressive local bakery and walk down to the beach.

PEREA

The origin of settlement in Peraia was the arrival of 740 refugees from Asia Minor and Eastern Thrace in 1923, as a result of the Greco-Turkish War (1919–22).

Today Peraia, together with the other suburbs of Thermaikos, forms one of the most rapidly developing suburbs of Thessaloniki. Wikipedia

Also,PEREA from the Greek: peran (Iordanou) [“beyond Jordan”]. District on the east side of the Jordan river whose northern border was south of Pella in the Decapolis … Not sure if there is any connection between the two.

“Perea has changed a lot since 1923 when the first residents (refugees from Asia Minor and Thrace) settled. Perea it has changed from a small refugee town into a beautiful city with the features of a tourist destination that does not need to envy the other more promoted regions in Greece.At a distance of just 15 km from the “MAKEDONIA” International Airport and 20 km from the centre of the city of Thessaloniki. Perea is an easily accessible destination for visitors who want to enjoy beaches with crystal clear blue waters, fresh fish, seafood and traditional dishes, and ouzo appetizers with the local tsipouro drink and wine or their coffee, literally on the beach with a view of the Thermaikos Gulf and the city of Thessaloniki.

The traditional stroll along the beach is a unique experience. Abundant cultural and sporting events are an attraction, especially during the summer months with the characteristic “bicycle ride” that is organised every summer by the Municipal sports centre, with visitors of all ages participating daily. With a rich tradition in terms of the sea, the residents in the region have established two sailing clubs, NORTH and TORONEO, whose members have participated in both Greek and International regattas.The School of Macedonian Tourism Professions has been based in Perea since 1974 and has a significant impact on the development of tourism in the region.”

There is some overstatement in the above article! You could not call it either beautiful,nor a city – but it is an excellent beach resort and the promenade is a great feature.

“So then, brethren, stand firm and hold to the traditions which you were taught by us, either by word of mouth or by letter” (2 Thess. 2:15).

One of the attractions of an apartment is the flexibility it gives – no timetable and the opportunity to both eat out locally and shop locally… and to cook at home, BBQs being a particular favourite.

Edward Lear

There’s a poet who hails not from here
With a penchant for bending your ear
The form he exported
Was carefully worded
The grand master minstrel Ed Lear

It’s impossible to say who wrote the very first limerick, but the traditional form of poetry seems to have existed well before the 19th century. Kudos to Mr. Lear however, for raising it out of obscurity.

Although Edward Lear may rightly be considered the Father of Limericks, due to the popularity of his nonsensical anthologies, he is not actually the original inventor of the limerick. It should also be noted that Lear never used the word “limerick” to label what he called his “nonsense” poems.

How does the Limerick come to figure on our Camino Frances? Well, on about the third evening of our walk across the Meseta, whilst we were partaking of a sharpener, Tom H. recalled a long walk he did in his York ramblers days,where it was suggested that time might pass more quickly if the group composed Limericks about each other,to share the following evening. What follows is the consequence of Tom’s suggestion.

We shared plenty of laughs with each other and I have tried to match the group’s poetic attempts with an appropriate photo.

The Meseta – “This is a joy, endless paths surrounded by golden fields of grain, poppies galore, solitude, silence with nature humming around you, and a real feeling of walking with the ancient pilgrims, don’t miss it fellow pilgrims “ 😊 We loved it…for the most part.

There were six Camigos from Sutton

The Meseta for them was a “ come on”

Stories about “poles” did

Not inhibit their strolls,

Celebrating in Astorga was full on. JOHN

The 13^th-century stone bridge of Hospital de Órbigo is 200 metres long and boasts twenty arches, which now mostly rest on bare ground now that a dam blocks much of the Orbigo River, but the bridge survives because of the Camino-worthy legend of Don Suero de Quiñones.

A fabulous front garden display

https://turismoastorga.es/what-do/ This newly designed Astorga website has much more about Astorga and an excellent photo gallery.

Most Camigos walked the short distance to the Cathedral and the GAUDI designed episcopal place for a tour – the unquenchable curiosity of true pilgrims – curiosity satisfied, it was time to join pilgrims and locals for a beer in the sunshine….

Amongst the tables of the appropriately named Cafe Gaudi.

The bus terminated at Madrid airport – our hotel was only five minutes from terminal 4 – unfortunately the new bus station is based by terminals 1,2 & 3 – the airport was very busy and the queue for taxis was over a 100 metres long! Overcoming our astonishment we joined the line and were relieved to have had to wait only 20 minutes to get a cab. The final evening was spent in a restaurant around the corner from the hotel – sharing tapas and supping excellent red wine from Extramadura – a pleasant change from Rioja. Then early to bed for Monday morning ‘s 4.30 am taxi ride back to the airport .The flight arrived 15 minutes early at Birmingham airport and we were through passport control in two minutes. Mike had organised taxis and we were home before 9 am.

We enjoyed a good buffet breakfast this morning, Ranjit on the coffee, before setting out for Carrion de Los Candes – 13 miles,or so.

La Huerta – a Spanish allotment

A forbidding daybreak over Leon with a threat of rain to come, but a brisk walk took us to one of Leon’s jewels – San Isidoro.

“The basilica also deserves to highlight its chapels , its museum (with a large amount of early medieval art and a library), the sculptures on its doorway and the architecture of the building itself.” TAKEN FROM THE WEBSITE

Who was San Isidoro ?

According to legend, a man in a white tunic appeared in a dream to Bishop Alvito de León, who told him that he was the Archbishop of Seville and asked him to take his remains to León, in addition to giving him indications of where they were (it was not known exactly).

Indeed, he found the tomb of the archbishop, and how he also transmitted it in his vision, three days after the discovery he died in the city.

As already mentioned the advice from many guidebooks is to skip the first part of the route out of the city which traverses monotonous suburbs and industrial units. The whole walk from Leon to San Martin can be described as somewhat uneven terrain, for until arrival, everything has been an endless plain….or should I say pain”? There was little of photographic interest as the route crisscrossed – crossed the N 120.

There was little in the way of particular interest fora few kilometres and we were pleased to come across a rest stop not mentioned in the guide books.

That will have to do for now. Leon still maintains the traditional siesta where most places, except restaurants, close from 13.00 – 16.00. Temperature reached 25* today – very pleasant and a good forecast for our “ rest” day here.