After a shop at Lidl, it was back to the apartment to unload and then a walk down to Praia de Rocha. We were hoping that a nearby, highly recommended locals’ restaurant would be open – to reserve a table for Saturday evening – A NAVE. It was open and a very friendly lady assured us of a table.
Reaching the end of the main drag in Praia de Rocha you come to a Miradour with steps leading down to the beach.
Plenty of tempting places to eat and drink
Another revisit on the Algarve, but not as far back as 1976, we spent some time in Lagos two years ago and wanted to explore some more of its history and its walkway over the dunes.
Despite its age,the train picked up some speed as we passed salt pans, allotments and large fields of asparagus.
We were soon crossing the waterway to Lagos Marina , reminding us of the importance of its maritime traditions.
Famously irresistible and frequently found in the UK now. Lidl make some good ones.
The Lagos town walls date back as far as the Roman period. They were rebuilt by the Arabs and considerably enlarged during the 16th century between the reigns of D. Manuel and Filipe I, because of the need to protect the growing city centre.
These walls have nine towers that were built for artillery and there are seven gates.
In the late 16th century, one section of the wall was turned into a residence for the Governors of the Algarve.
We walked up hill to a great viewpoint.
For a complete change of scene it was time to walk back to the station, as the access to the walkways over the dunes was just a few metres from there and we had to time it so that we got back in time for the return train to Portimao
A great day out in the sun 🌞 and 11 miles of walking. If you want or need an antidote to Praia de Rocha this town has it all.
The Camino leaves the town over the River Cua and past the church and the albergue. It continues alongside the N 120 on a gravel path, passing a simple wooden cross and soon enter the hamlet of 36 persons,Pieros which contains the remains of the ancient castro Ventosa.
And a church, Iglesia de San Martin de Tours,with a triangular facade, built in 1086.
The Camino forges a footpath through the vineyards and rolling hills for the next 6.3 Km , passing through Valtuille de Arriba.
If you ignore the large metal posts and electric wires running overhead you can still appreciate a beautiful landscape.
This section of the route to Villafranca is called el camino de la Virgen and is a deeply spiritual landscape for locals – Mary is seen as a protector of the land,fruit and wine. The locals still hold a deep respect for pilgrims despite the ever increasing numbers passing their doors.
After climbing the last hill and dale we pass an iconic sight, the Iglesia de Santiago and its Puerta de Perdon ( door of pardon ).
Huddled between two fast-flowing rivers and the verdant hills of the Galician mountains, Villafranca de Bierzo is one of the most beautiful towns in Northern Spain.A particular feature are the glass enclosed balconies stone and stucco homes.
It is the last important town in Leon that is crossed by the Pilgrim’s Road to Santiago de Compostela. Its rich monumental heritage, and the influence of the St. James pilgrims, have made it an important tourist centre. Its old town has been declared Property of Cultural Interest.
https://internationalliving.com/countries/spain/villafranca-spain/
Leaving Villafranca, we follow the arrows and scallop shells over the Burbia river on a more strenuous stretch than of late as we walk up above the Valcarce valley to be rewarded with fine views.
Just before entering Trabadelo, the Camino passes through ancient Chestnut trees. For centuries locals have gathered the chestnuts which have been called “ the bread of the poor” because they single-handedly saved whole communities from starvation in bad winters.
Leaving Trabadelo the camino is as well marked as ever and in just under 4 km we should reach Hotel Valcarce, our accommodation for this evening.
A song for today :- WALKING ON SUNSHINE 🌞 https://music.youtube.com/playlist?list=OLAK5uy_nhO9Aa2UVNtiM3K5x0vB6weaJqpaif37I&si=lSRxmL55o_wKnUqU
Molinaseca to Cacabelos
Hiking EasyDistance 23 kmAscent 222 mDescent 324 m 5-6 hrsLow Point 479 mHigh Point 611 mGradient 4˚
Leaving Molinaseca is well marked and straight forward , mainly on sidewalks for the 8 KM stretch into Ponferrada, first is a most ancient village,Campo ,with a beautiful 17 th century church, the Iglesia de San Blas.
Ponferrada was a centre of Roman mining activity and became a large and prosperous settlement. In 1178 Templars made it a main stop on the Camino to serve and protect pilgrims. In the 13 th century they built the massive castle which is the iconic image of Ponferrada.
Almost Hollywood like ! Chosen because of the intersection of two rivers,the Sil and the Boeza and the views below of the fertile forests and valleys of the Bierzo region.
The Plaza Virgen de la Encina is the social and town centre of medieval Ponferrada ( second break fast anyone?) and home to its most celebrated Church.
“ The legend goes that, during the building of Ponferrada’s fortified castle, a knight went into the forest seeking more wood for the construction, and spotted Mary’s image on an ancient Oak. ( Oak trees were considered and sacred by pre- Christian peoples in Iberia ). Encina means Holm oak, hence Our Lady of the Oak.” B.Bahrami MOON Camino de Santiago guide .
Arrows and scallop shells will take us over the Pons Ferrara bridge and west out of the town.In the 12 th century it needed to be reinforced with iron supports – that is how the town got its name. Onwards through residential areas, parks and tree lined streets. Some of the residents have attached symbols of the Camino ,such as brass scallop shells and arrows to their garden walls and gates, shortly arriving at Compostila.
Compostilla is a curious place. It was largely built by a private mining and energy company and its rectilinear streets, complete with football pitches and schools, is reminiscent of something out of an upper class North American neighborhood.
On your way through you will pass Nuestra Señora del Refugio, an indication that Compostilla had a place for pilgrims long ago.
We recommence the way along a pleasant country road leading us very shortly into Columbrianos – good views to be had of mountains to the left, vineyards and apple trees – this area is called the “ garden valley of Ponferrada”.
The route continues through similar countryside, giant Collards used for Cocido or sautéed with bacon ( an Irish link? ) are found in many of the gardens. Almost immediately we enter Fuentes Nuevas – a sleepy place – and one of the older villages.
Fuentes Nuevas has a local wine maker that invites Pelegrinos to stop for a wine tasting with pinchos- it’s on the left 3/4 way, down Calle Flores.
https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=eqYNTToDp-I&si=uCXdWHS5m-dhHItQ GIMME THAT WINE by Georgie Fame.
In a short while we shall reach Camponaraya – leaving the rural idyll behind – the name comes from campo meaning countryside and naraya , the river that flows through here. Then through a straggling industrial suburb; the N120 running through it – waymarks impressed in the slabs,various cafes en route.
Cacabelos is located in the center of El Bierzo. This area is widely known for its white wine.
The first settlement was founded by King Alfonso IX in the 10th century. After a devastating earthquake, the town was rebuilt in the 12th century.
The Camino Santiago enters Cacabelos from the East passing the Hermitage of San Roque and later the church of Santa Maria.
Continuing our way through town we reach the bridge over River Cúa, where you can have a refreshing swim.Near the bridge, you can see the beautifully renovated building of an old mill with the olive press in front.
Another attraction of Cacabelos is the Sanctuary of la Quinta Angustia. Inside the building, the altar shows the baby Jesus playing cards with San Antonio de Padua.
Links and more information about this settlement:-
https://www.barcelo.com/guia-turismo/en/spain/leon/things-to-do/que-visitar-en-cacabelos/
Music for this Etape is….https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=9yCsThM4Ibw&si=S2gNe4HKMDLEb2zS Edward Elgar’s “ Triumphal March from Caractacus”.
This should be a memorable stage of our Camino.
And in the thick of Leon’s mountains – a blissful stretch
We should ensure we have plenty of water ( rehydration tablets advised ) as we continue the gradual climb out of Rabanal. Stone walls and a dirt path demarcate the Camino. It will soon enter a passage that is pure wild territory for the next 5.6 KM. Steep in places but generally steady.
A long ascent in which we will climb 280 metres in altitude all at once until we reach the Cruz de Ferro ( 1,400 metres).
After 5.3 KM we reach Foncebadon, a good place for a rest and a coffee before the next 2.3 KM to the Cruz de Ferro.
Foncebadon was pretty well deserted in the early 1990s – emigration to Madrid for work being one factor – but the growing popularity of the Camino has seen a revival and repopulation. It was home to the XIIth century hermit,Gaucelmo who built a church and a simple pilgrim hospital here.
Below is a great story about a local woman,Maria, who defied the clergy and Guardia Civil as they attempted to remove the town’s church bells.
https://wherepeteris.com/postcard-5-foncebadon-resurrection-on-the-margins/
We then rejoin the path upwards to Puerta Irago (1505m ) and the Cruz de Ferro. In his guidebook John Brierley states : – “…this majestic spot stands 1505 M above sea level and a simple iron cross stands atop its weathered pole that has become one of the abiding symbols of the pilgrim way of St James…”
We shall have to take care on the steep descent towards Acebo,passing the tiny hamlet of Manjarin en route, with its open-air shelter built by Tomas Martinez de Paz – a self styled Templar knight in an effort to provide some basic amenities on this stretch.
Leaving Manjarin there is another short climb up to the true highest point of Monte Irago’s pass,midway between Manjarin and El Acebo; hoping for a clear day there will be great vistas, a full view of El Acebo below and in the distance the large town of Ponferrada.
El Acebo is described as a “ delightful village – raspberry bushes grow over walls,built of stone and populated by friendly villagers. We might notice bundles of herbs tied to doors , balconies and windows – an ancient pre-Christian practice to ward off bad luck but also attracting and keeping well being.
From El Acebo to Molinaseca is some of the wildest and unspoiled territory on the Camino – sublime and populated by butterflies and dragonflies- the trail goes through narrow crags and trees in a timeless setting.
Next village is Riego de Ambros – another attractive mountain village with traditional overhanging balconies – previously abandoned houses have been renovated – including the bar in the village centre. At this point a decision can be made whether to continue down on the trail ( rocky in places ) or to walk along the road ( local and not busy,but care needs to be taken on bends – most of my research on Pilgrim Forums indicates that the road is a good option,particularly if your knees are susceptible to descents, or it is raining – probably worth packing a “ high viz” vest, just in case ). Bicigrinos could be more of a hazard than cars! It is worth noting that none of the four reference guidebooks I have make much of the descent, except to say take extra care when wet.
In the centre of this originally 12 th century village is the small Baroque Ermita de San Sebastián- patron saint of athletes and adventurers ( might we still qualify for the latter? ). A busy man as he was also protector against plague and calamity – we could do with people of that ilk today !
We continue our path downward to Molinaseca , through a beautiful grove of Chestnut trees – good for bird life apparently- the village disappears from view occasionally in the valley ahead. This will begin to feel more like valley country as the mountains we have descended are behind us and we face a vast fertile valley ahead, with as much Mediterranean as Atlantic flora.
Molinaseca translates a “ dry mill” but it is a beautiful well irrigated town built along the River Meruelo. Apples,pears,chestnuts red peppers, the aforementioned botillos and wine are of distinctive regional quality here. If you like fresh water fish then Trout are abundant too.
“Oh I loved that descent! The mountains were purple and lovely!” Recent quote from a Pelegrino.
The link below is a good guide to the history of Molinaseca and what to see.
https://www.barcelo.com/guia-turismo/en/spain/leon/things-to-do/molinaseca/
BEGINNING WITH ASTORGA AND A FREE DAY
https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=EdBIZNXLFDw&si=v9qfOcfxa2OuPYh7
There have been a number of Pelegrinos on our Camino Frances,which began in 2022. June,Anita,Mary,Sue and Ranjit walked one or two of the previous stages but are no longer walking the Way. Hopefully,they have happy memories and can be proud of what they achieved.
However, we have new recruits! Joining us are Val,Myra, Richard and Ray from Solihull Ramblers,together with Christina of Sutton Coldfield Ramblers. This makes a group of nine including Tom,Rob, Mike and myself. There are going to be some memorable stretches on this final saunter !
My thoughts for all of us on the walk are better expressed by R D Laing:
“There is nothing in the world more enjoyable than to be in communion with another human being. This has nothing to do with technique. Once it is there it is a field – a sort of force field that is not to be discovered within the investigative competence of science. So I will have to call it spiritual. It is the tuning into a spiritual field that is always there. It has to do with attunement – two instruments getting in tune with each other – harmonising. It is quite an experience. In Christian terminology the name they have given to this healing force is the Holy Ghost. Holy means healthy and spirit means ghost. There is a healthy spirit that exists in us and between us and that is the only healing power that exists as far as I know. It exists not just between us as a single species – but throughout the whole of creation”.
From a speech he gave entitled, ‘Beyond science’- to a spiritual healing power” which caused much controversy at the time.
Also, to bear in mind a more earthy piece of advice – “To Walk Ten Days With Someone is Like Living Together for Ten Years!” Let’s hope it doesn’t age us that much.
PRACTICAL DETAILS
We fly to Madrid on our rearranged flight ( by Ryanair) from Birmingham on 05/06/2024, flight 2083,departing at 14.15 and arrive in Madrid at 17.45 ( note the hour time difference). We shall stay at Fly Rooms Hotel near Barajas .
Hopefully we can eat at the same restaurant we used on our departure last year – Barajas is a pleasant enough town considering its proximity to the airport. The next morning we leave for Astorga – our starting point from the Camino – transport TBA soon. 6-8th June, we have two nights at Imprenta Musical Alojamiento in Astorga.
Pliny called Astorga an urbs magnifica. It has Asturian and Roman origins. In time the city became an important intersection of two Caminos – The Via de la Plata and the Camino Frances – it is also a popular starting point for the Camino for Spanish pilgrims. The city is actually built over its early Asturian and Roman origins . Much of the Roman Wall is still intact. Astorga also marks the beginning of the territory known as the Maragateria,home of a people called Maragatos.
The Maragateria is defined by a unique culture of strong mountain people, including arrieros ( traditional muleteers ) who transported goods over the mountains before there were railways and trucks. They were also key to Astoria’s rebirth as a centre for chocolate making – the city has a Museo de Chocolate- 5 minute walk outside the city walls.
It is also famous for its hearty fare which would make a great dinner.
You can work up an appetite for that by taking a tour of the city. Here is a useful link to guide you on the way round.
https://londontraveller.org/2019/11/09/walk-around-astorga-roman-town/
The Turismo,adj.Hotel GAUDI has maps available too.
Don’t miss the GAUDI Palace and the Cathedral- take your pilgrim passport with you for impressive stamps.
Along the top of Astorga’s western ramparts runs a popular promenade looking out towards an imposing range of mountains- the Montes de Leon.
BIBLIO: I found a great deal of interest and information from the following books :-
MOON “ CAMINO de SANTIAGO….By Beebe Bahrami
Camino de Santiago – Camino Frances ….By John Brierley
THE CAMINO FRANCES – A Wise Pilgrim Guide
THE ROAD TO SANTIAGO….Michael Jacobs
CAMINO DE SANTIAGO – Village to Village Guide….Anna Dintaman and David Landis.
And of course The Internet! Especially useful for photos.
Unless stated,I shall be using the above for all further “ Previews”.
https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=EdBIZNXLFDw&si=_M32IgyAWsFeg-Cd
“ There’s Gold in Them Hills” by Ron Sexsmith.
Surprisingly it was back to the buses for the second day in Thessaloniki. The first boat did not depart from PEREA until 11.45. Thankfully there was not the congestion on the buses nor the roads until the last two stops before we alighted by the White Tower. It looked like a steepish walk uphill to the Heptapyrgion of Thessaloniki, or Castle as we called it. There was a peaceful coffee stop en route adjacent to some ruins and away from the road.
We continued the walk upwards at one point between two cemeteries one of which was designated “ The Protestant Cemetery “
The fortress has towered over the city of Thessaloniki, Greece, for over 1,000 years. It was first constructed during the Byzantine era (330 AD to 1453 AD), although this most recent version was rebuilt by the Ottomans after they conquered the city in the 1400s. It goes by a few names: Heptapyrgion, Eptapyrgio, and Yedi Kule, all of which mean “Fortress of Seven Towers.” It’s a bit of a misnomer, though, as the fortress actually has 10 towers.
The Thessaloniki Acropolis lies in the northeastern and highest point of the city, just beyond Vlatadon Monastery and inside the northen wall of the city, which is in a relatively good state of preservation. Two big gates, the “portares”, lead inside the Acropolis which was the second line of defence in case of siege of the city. Next to the east gate as it leads outside the Acropolis, at the corner of the northen and eastern walls, the tower of Trigonio (or Pyrovolio) dominates and offers magnificient views of the city. All in all it is a huge site, there are 4 kilometres of walls still intact.
The Heptapyrgion of Thessaloniki has grown and changed over the centuries, absorbing the architectural influence of the many cultures, communities, and political dynasties that have made Thessaloniki the diverse city it is today. While it has spent the past 25 or so years as a tourist attraction and a UNESCO world heritage recognized site, it’s final function for the century or so before its ‘retirement’ was as a prison – a bit of a gloomy period for an otherwise magnificent building.
To the Greeks, Heptapyrgion is haunted by memories of turbulent periods within their recent history. The fortress held political prisoners during troubled times like the fascist dictatorship of 1936, the years of Nazi occupation and the civil war that followed it, and the seven year-long military junta that began in 1967. Those interned there faced harsh conditions. Torture was common, and hundreds of inmates were executed at an infamous spot not far from the fortress.
Acropolis means upper city and there are people still living up here.
After spending some time meandering around the rest of the site – it takes a fair amount of time and energy, it was back down to the port side and finally to hitch a ride on the taxi boat.
After leaving the busy cafe lined beach of PEREA , the walk was along quiet stretches of deserted sand, with intermittent houses and apartments.
We were intrigued by two blue domes in the distance and after a coffee stop we were surprised to find that it was a very grand hotel. The Santa Beach Hotel,in fact.
No competition and € 108 a night for a twin,including breakfast. Some might say fair enough.
AGYA TRIADA, the next village was a contrast to PEREA. It was reminiscent of Crete – quiet lanes off the front and a pedestrianised area with a few traditional Tavernas.
Leaving the village we passed some contrasting scrub and a derelict site ( not pictured )which was difficult to determine . The tarmac ended and the trail narrowed as we began to ascend the cliff-side.
The views were worth the climb.
The scenery changed into quite arable smallholdings, interspersed with cottages. There were vineyards and Olive groves.
Then it was a retracing of our steps to Perea, admiring this bountiful collection of flora en route.
TWO DAYS LATER…A CONTRASTING WALK IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION.
There was a long stretch of beach mostly deserted and it became apparent why there were no hotel nor beachside facilities except for the odd bin. The beach was strewn with seaweed and there was a steepish drop – too great for little ones – perhaps the proximity of the airport was another factor.
The road was closed at what we presumed was the edge of Thessaloniki airport
The only other sight of interest was this restaurant that seemed to be attached to airforce living quarters
Thankfully we returned to the sunbeds and cold drinks at Paso’s,our now regular bar and beach hire spot.
“so that you will behave properly toward outsiders and not be in any need”
Well just to make clear we did not decide upon Thessaloniki as a result of St Paul’s exhortations to the Thessalonians,but because of its reputation as a hospitable and historic city. Furthermore, researches beyond the New Testament convinced us that the nearby town of PEREA and its beaches might be the best base. After four days here, including a day in Thessaloniki, it is proving to be worthwhile research.
After a “ Silly O’ Clock” departure from Birmingham, easy passage through security , we arrived at our apartment in PEREA at 12.30. After some confusion about finding the keys, we climbed the stairs and quickly took stock – the three balconies looked great.
A light lunch in an impressive local bakery and walk down to the beach.
PEREA
The origin of settlement in Peraia was the arrival of 740 refugees from Asia Minor and Eastern Thrace in 1923, as a result of the Greco-Turkish War (1919–22).
Today Peraia, together with the other suburbs of Thermaikos, forms one of the most rapidly developing suburbs of Thessaloniki. Wikipedia
Also,PEREA from the Greek: peran (Iordanou) [“beyond Jordan”]. District on the east side of the Jordan river whose northern border was south of Pella in the Decapolis … Not sure if there is any connection between the two.
“Perea has changed a lot since 1923 when the first residents (refugees from Asia Minor and Thrace) settled. Perea it has changed from a small refugee town into a beautiful city with the features of a tourist destination that does not need to envy the other more promoted regions in Greece.At a distance of just 15 km from the “MAKEDONIA” International Airport and 20 km from the centre of the city of Thessaloniki. Perea is an easily accessible destination for visitors who want to enjoy beaches with crystal clear blue waters, fresh fish, seafood and traditional dishes, and ouzo appetizers with the local tsipouro drink and wine or their coffee, literally on the beach with a view of the Thermaikos Gulf and the city of Thessaloniki.
The traditional stroll along the beach is a unique experience. Abundant cultural and sporting events are an attraction, especially during the summer months with the characteristic “bicycle ride” that is organised every summer by the Municipal sports centre, with visitors of all ages participating daily. With a rich tradition in terms of the sea, the residents in the region have established two sailing clubs, NORTH and TORONEO, whose members have participated in both Greek and International regattas.The School of Macedonian Tourism Professions has been based in Perea since 1974 and has a significant impact on the development of tourism in the region.”
There is some overstatement in the above article! You could not call it either beautiful,nor a city – but it is an excellent beach resort and the promenade is a great feature.
“So then, brethren, stand firm and hold to the traditions which you were taught by us, either by word of mouth or by letter” (2 Thess. 2:15).
One of the attractions of an apartment is the flexibility it gives – no timetable and the opportunity to both eat out locally and shop locally… and to cook at home, BBQs being a particular favourite.
Edward Lear
There’s a poet who hails not from here
With a penchant for bending your ear
The form he exported
Was carefully worded
The grand master minstrel Ed Lear
It’s impossible to say who wrote the very first limerick, but the traditional form of poetry seems to have existed well before the 19th century. Kudos to Mr. Lear however, for raising it out of obscurity.
Although Edward Lear may rightly be considered the Father of Limericks, due to the popularity of his nonsensical anthologies, he is not actually the original inventor of the limerick. It should also be noted that Lear never used the word “limerick” to label what he called his “nonsense” poems.
How does the Limerick come to figure on our Camino Frances? Well, on about the third evening of our walk across the Meseta, whilst we were partaking of a sharpener, Tom H. recalled a long walk he did in his York ramblers days,where it was suggested that time might pass more quickly if the group composed Limericks about each other,to share the following evening. What follows is the consequence of Tom’s suggestion.
We shared plenty of laughs with each other and I have tried to match the group’s poetic attempts with an appropriate photo.
The Meseta – “This is a joy, endless paths surrounded by golden fields of grain, poppies galore, solitude, silence with nature humming around you, and a real feeling of walking with the ancient pilgrims, don’t miss it fellow pilgrims “ 😊 We loved it…for the most part.
There were six Camigos from Sutton
The Meseta for them was a “ come on”
Stories about “poles” did
Not inhibit their strolls,
Celebrating in Astorga was full on. JOHN
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