We eventually got breakfast here after 2 1/2 hours, more than welcome Tostada with Tomato, salt and olive oil,some local ham for protein more like Brunch by 10.30.
DAY V FROM CACABELOS TO VALCARCE DE CAMINO – TUE 11 thJUNE
12 JunDAY 4 FROM MOLINASECA TO CACABELOS BEGINNING WITH A SLIGHT HICCUP
10 Jun
Split decision this morning as some of the group wanted to walk the entire Etape and some wanted to take a taxi to Ponferrada- 6 km – and tour the Templar Castle. So be it and I was in the latter group which was quickly taken to Ponferrada. On climbing up to the castle entrance we discovered that it was closed Mondays! I wasn’t too disappointed as I have often found that the exterior of castles, like French chateaux, more interesting than the interior and often gone inside out of a sense of duty rather than curiosity.There was the barrio historico to compensate and a needed ATM found in the new town. Whilst waiting ,we saw on the Pharmacia clock that it was 18* ( 09.00 ). Tom disputed this saying it wasn’t that warm because the hairs on his legs were still upwards! Tom, out human barometer.
We retrieved our steps and met up with the other group coincidentally,in one of the squares. Second breakfast time.
We walked out of Ponferrada along a pleasant path by the side of the river.
Walking on to Columbrianos and its hermitage.
Some of the views and some of the Pelegrinos:-
Then our digs for the night - El Monclao de Lazaro – unique.
SUNDAY 9th JUNE – THE TOUGHEST DAY EVER FOR ANY OF US – BUT ALL GOOD.
10 Jun
A very misty skyline with a few breaks in the cloud – no rain forecast – sunny intervals late afternoon.
Climbing on pretty good terrain, wet in places because of heavy overnight rain, we eventually reached the summit.
https://caminoways.com/cruz-de-ferro
The five guidebooks I have used for the Camino Frances have been almost faultless in their unique ways in detailing information about routes, accommodation, local history and mapping. However, they all omit to mention the difficulty level of the final 900 metres descent. Of all the Caminos I have walked including the Primitivo, the climb across the Pyrenees, the valleys of the Camino del Norte, nothing comes close to the challenges of both the path and the awful terrain in many stretches of this descent.
The difficulty was exacerbated by recent heavy rainfall but even taking that into account it still remains inexplicable that the guidebooks do not go into any details of the dangers of this section . I got so fed up with it I reverted to the nearby road which mercifully was very quiet ( Sunday ). I even managed then to get a couple of photos as the mist began to clear .
SATURDAY 8th JUNE – THE SAUNTER BEGINS IN EARNEST- 07.00 START.
9 Jun“Do you know the origin of that word ‘saunter?’ It’s a beautiful word. Away back in the Middle Ages people used to go on pilgrimages to the Holy Land, and when people in the villages through which they passed asked where they were going, they would reply, “A la sainte terre,’ ‘To the Holy Land.’ And so they became known as sainte-terre-ers or saunterers. Now these mountains are our Holy Land, and we ought to saunter through them reverently, not ‘hike’ through them.” John Muir. AS IS THE CAMINO!
A punctual departure from Astorga, without breakfast, though each one had a snack and a drink of some kind. Christina even had a ready made paper carton of cafe latte!
Once again I am indebted to Val & Christina for sharing photos, far superior to mine.
We anticipated walking about 5 Km to our breakfast coffee stop.
We walked through SANTA CATALINA then EL GANSO, peaceful, pretty villages – red roses do well here.
We reached here at 13.00, five hours walking and two 30 minute breaks en route. A good start,blessed with fine weather. We had anticipated rain which came later than expected at 16.45 and expected to continue overnight. The forecast for Sunday is dry with sunny periods – if that turns out to be the case we shall be blessed again as we have a couple of challenging climbs to make.
CAMINO FRANCES – ETAPE III BEGINS -JUNE 2024 WITH NINE RAMBLERS TO THE FORE -REST DAY & A 1/2 ASTORGA
7 Jun
Arrival at Birmingham Airport by train with Christina and Tom was straightforward enough and considering the amount of structural work taking place, checking-in and security was quite efficient.
Some of us gathered in the Spoons for coffee and a bite and we whiled away the time with a seminar on cryptic cross words, led by Tom using the Guardian Saturday Quick Cryptic puzzle, with clues.
I still feel quite clueless, despite getting a couple right.
Departure to Madrid was 30 minutes late, but a smooth flight ensued.
Barajas airport seemed quiet and we were through to the taxi rank in record time and taking three taxis for the group we soon arrived at Hotel Clemente to check in to our accommodation at Fly Rooms.
After a quick turn around we met back in the very cool Hotel Clemente bar, for a “ sharpener” .
Then, on to a local restaurant, La Vino de PEREA , where we were quickly seated in the shade. Helpful menu + specials in English.
We had a very convivial meal which everyone enjoyed, although I did say that this level of fare was a cut above what we might usually expect, but it was our first night so why not something a little special?
We were back in Hotel Clemente on Thursday morning for a state of the art breakfast, with a selection of hot dishes as well as fresh fruit,,cereals and cake.
Taxis had been booked for 09.00 for Terminal Four back at the airport and we were there quickly enough. Madrid airport is a huge place but well designed and the road system is exemplary.
The estacion de autobuses is only a couple of years old and we were soon seated with Christina directing what turned out to be a hilarious game of UNO,using two cases as a card table.
Our ALSA coach was a comfortable twin axle vehicle and we took a route around Madrid, calling at two smaller coach stations before eventually exiting the city .
En route, Rob pointed out a tall cross on the hillside to our left – it was overlooking the Valley of the Fallen where Franco was interred. However, the government decided to exhume the body as it was agreed by a majority that the dictator’s remains had no place amongst the fallen of the Spanish civil war.
https://99percentinvisible.org/episode/valley-of-the-fallen/
We arrived mid afternoon in 30* temperatures and made the 11 minute walk to our hotel IMPRENTA MUSICAL ALOJIOMENTO.
Mike and I decided to take advantage of the balcony and get some washing done.
With the best part of a sunny afternoon and early evening to spare we went on a random kind of walkabout of this fascinating city.
Friday promised mostly sunshine with showers possibly late on. The forecast for Saturday’s first walk was wet and so we have decided to make a 07.00 start to Rabanal del Camino – 20 km. Tomorrow.
Mike and I enjoyed a late start and a very enjoyable traditional breakfast of tostadas con tomato y hamon, with fresh orange juice and coffee – €4.00!
We then walked the Camino out of the city to be sure of our route tomorrow. Passing a church that reminded me of my granddaughter, Martha.
We then passed another very modern church.
We were surprised to notice a plaque on the wall of a house dedicated to an English hero.
We reached the edge of town where the Camino begins for real.
Retracing our steps we took in some of the buildings for which Astorga is renowned .
At 16.30 the Chocolate Museo opens . Let’s go, something different. What has chocolate got to do with Astorga; what has chocolate got to do with Cadbury’s Bournville? Both unlikely places.
The storm came in about 18.30, so Rob, Tom, Mike and I took shelter in a tiny bar, El Rincon, about 150 M from our hotel. A simple, locals’ favourite. I rang the rest of the group to say we could have a good night here…and we did….super service and incredible value for money . Enjoyable night and it has stopped raining,thundering and lightning as we walked back to the hotel.
The Last Etape and on to Santiago 19KM.“Nature’s beauty in Galicia’s embrace along the Camino de Santiago is a symphony of majestic landscapes, where lush green valleys dance with sparkling rivers, and ancient forests whisper tales of pilgrims past. Each step reveals a painting of ethereal beauty, a testament to the enchanting allure of Galicia’s untamed wilderness.”
28 Mayhttps://music.youtube.com/watch?v=tpyqie-2bqA&si=gEDhV3MHWe9Uxy4w “ Country Roads”, John Denver
Waxing lyrical:
“In my soul I am a farmer. I see the worms and the small things on the ground along the way, note the plants that thrive and know this earth is rich and alive.
I could grow things here.
In my heart I am a fisherman. I stand beside the rivers and streams and watch the fish jump.
I could feed myself here.
I know how to grow things. I know how to fish. These are gifts given to me at childhood by my parents.
I may struggle to converse with the people I pass. But Spain… the land, speaks to me in a language I understand.
I could live here and be happy.”
In my soul I am a farmer. I see the worms and the small things on the ground along the way, note the plants that thrive and know this earth is rich and alive.
I could grow things here.
In my heart I am a fisherman. I stand beside the rivers and streams and watch the fish jump.
I could feed myself here.
I know how to grow things. I know how to fish. These are gifts given to me at childhood by my parents.
I may struggle to converse with the people I pass. But Spain… the land, speaks to me in a language I understand.
I could live here and be happy.
In my soul I am a farmer. I see the worms and the small things on the ground along the way, note the plants that thrive and know this earth is rich and alive.
I could grow things here.
In my heart I am a fisherman. I stand beside the rivers and streams and watch the fish jump.
I could feed myself here.
I know how to grow things. I know how to fish. These are gifts given to me at childhood by my parents.
I may struggle to converse with the people I pass. But Spain… the land, speaks to me in a language I understand.
I could live here and be happy.
At this point and before we begin our Camino from Astorga on. 20 th June 2024, it is worth remembering a few of the things that differentiate a camino from a holiday. We all undertake our Camino for a vast array of reasons.
https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=j81sy1Ibf9M&si=RUMjzKn5646aVhJC “ Walk Don’t Run” by The Ventures
Travel per day – walking is the ultimate slow mode. Natural rhythm
Experience of physical discomfort / pain. Overcoming challenges
Listening to what your body tells you
These inhibit…slows you down, more reflective more likely to engage face to face with others.
Decrease in number and variety of actions per day
Simplicity of experiences
Reduction of consumer choice Eg Menu Del Dia / Pelegrino Eg lunch is not Pret A Manger with 30 different sandwiches/ soups
Walk, Eat, Sleep – a different bed every night and being grateful
You have only to consider what time you start, where you are going to finish
What to have for breakfast
Where/when to have a break
Hostal or hotel
Dinner? Or Tapas trail ?
There are many ‘What a lovely wonderful day that was’ on the Camino but there are also days that are more difficult, ‘Thank Goodness that’s over’. History shows us that such was always the pilgrims’ role.
14th Century Pilgrimage to SdC
Licensees authorizing the owners and captions of ships to carry a fixed number of pilgrims to Spain are still in existence and fill many pages of Thomas Rymer’s book ‘Foedera’. They are written in Latin, the name of the ship in French. The pilgrims must swear before leaving England: they must upon their oath do nothing contrary to the obedience and fealty they owe the king; they must not take out of the realm gold or silver or bullion beyond what is necessary to their journey, and they must not reveal the secrets of the realm. Don’t think for a minute that these ships, one hundred pilgrims and crew on a long journey were large, well-appointed vessels. The pilgrims suffered from overcrowding, seasickness, the fear of storms, disgusting smells, and the derision of the sailors. They very much resembled the jam-packed pilgrim ships on the Red Sea of our recent history which brought crowds of believers to Jeddah, Muslims on their way to Mecca. Our example dates from 1394: “Know you that we have given license to Oto Chambernoun, William Gilbert, and Richard Gilbert, to receive and embark in the harbor of Dartmouth a hundred pilgrims in a certain ship belonging to the same Oto, William, and Richard, called la Charite de Paynton, of which Peter Cok I captain; and to take them to Saint James, there to fulfill their vows, and from thence to bring them back to England, freely and without hindrance, notwithstanding ordinances to the contrary.”
We got it easy.
There is a saying in Spanish “cada día tiene su afán” which translates to “Every day has its desire.” I love this saying because so true in life and especially on the Camino. Each day there some new challenge; weather, terrain or aches and pains. But it is important to remember these things are temporary or tomorrow offers something new. 🙏😊
Amenal is merely a pit- stop but has a popular cafe
We shall be walking beneath Eucalyptus for some way until we come upon the Lavacolla airport. There are many theories in relation to the origin of the place name Lavacolla. One of the theories claims the name Lavacolla comes from the fact that pilgrims in the Middle Ages used to wash in the stream that crosses Lavacolla to arrive clean in Santiago. This is one of the theories you might hear from the guides of the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela if you take a rooftop tour of the cathedral. This theory implies the name Lava-colla could come from the words ‘lavar’ (to wash) and ‘cuello’ (neck), meaning ‘to wash the neck’. There is a more earthy interpretation but…You may notice discarded items of clothing by the stream – as we walk around the perimeter of the airport.
Made of two giant pilgrims pointing the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral. It was built in the 1993 Holy Year and was design by the Galician sculptor Acuña..
The Camino continues and takes us into the suburbs of Santiago, Rua do Peregrino and a flight of steps to join the city’s traffic.
The path enters Santiago on the west side via San Lazaro. The Rua dos Concheiros which flows into rua San Pedro and crosses into the medieval walls of Santiago at Puerta del Camino, leaving a final few hundred Kms to reach Kilometre Zero at the cathedral. John Brierley’s advice is worth regarding on your arrival…..” “Take time to arrive . We each experience different emotions, from euphoria to disappointment, on seeing the cathedral . Whatever your individual reactions, honour and accept them . Gratitude for safe arrival is a frequent response but if you are overwhelmed by the crowds why not return later when you feel more composed …”
Codex Calixtinus: “ Compostella, the most excellent city of the Apostle,complete with all delights , having in its care the valuable body of St. James, on account of which it is recognised as the luckiest and noblest city in Spain”.
There are certain rituals associated with Santiago, no obligation .
Another comprehensive link:
There is so much to see in Santiago de Compostela and the link below is helpful in making decisions about what to do. Take your pilgrim passport with you as it enables free entrance into some places. If there is a fee, it is worth asking if there is a discount for “Jubilados “ – Retirees.
https://caminoways.com/10-things-to-do-in-santiago-de-compostela
“Who Would True Valour See…To Be A Pilgrim “.
https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=KY3MnQRVmOc&si=SHpFNuN__pbqtwFV
THE PENULTIMATE LEG – ARZUA TO O PEDROUZO – 21 KM
26 MayEarth is crammed with heaven,
And every common bush afire with God,
But only she who sees
takes off her shoes.
-Elizabeth Barrett Browning
The trail passes through numerous hamlets. There’s just a bit of undulation with several shallow river valleys. Most of the trail is off road with shade from the prolific Eucalyptus trees.
“No hay burro calvo, ni calabaza con pelo!”
(” “There is no bald donkey and no pumpkin with hair.” ) I can clarify: it’s an idiom that basically means “don’t bullshit me” or, more generally, used in situations where something is clearly exaggerated, false, etc. I would add that there might be a second layer of irony to this, in the context of a conversation about Trump, because he’s often made fun of for his orange-colored fake tan, and people have often called him a pumpkin. So he sort of is a pumpkin with hair…
How did we get here ? Let’s leave this diversion and get back on to the Camino .
After all that philosophy we shall be ready for refreshments and here is just the place.
We soon reach A Calle, a typical Camino village
PLEASE NOTE
The path joins the road at Salceda , and although you don’t walk on the road, you stay quite close. In fact, the path crosses the highway several times between here and Santiago. The speed of the traffic, the curves in the road and the abundance of pilgrims make this the most dangerous stretch along the path. Cross carefully and quickly and always stay under the road when possible.
Son after leaving Salceda we pass a poignant memorial
The monument is of a bronze pair of his shoes and people are known to leave little gifts beside the monument. The plaque at the side says “Guillermo Watt Peregrino, Abrazo a dios a los 69 años a una jornada de Santiago el 25 de Agosto 1993, año santo, vivas en Christo.”
The next place of interest as we near the end of this stage is Santa Irene. At 25 km from Santiago de Compostela, the small and beautiful village of Santa Irene, belonging to the municipality of O Pino.
Here you can find good places to eat and rest. One of the most interesting places in the locality are the hermitage and the fountain, since important curative powers are attributed to it and therefore, it hides several legends.
For many the water emanating from this source is able to kill pests and plagues of crops, so it was used to spray the crops. Also, it is presumed that it cured all the ills of children, who stopped crying when they passed by the image of the Saint. It was previously decorated with the image of the Saint, but this beautiful piece from 1692 was stolen in the eighties.
Chapel of Saint Irene
Perfectly located at the foot of the Camino de Santiago, you will see this beautiful and well known chapel. This hermitage dedicated to San Pedro was built in the 17th century and has a simple rectangular floor plan built in stone, with lintels and a bell tower. Inside there is a baroque style altarpiece. It is surrounded by a spectacular oak grove, which forms its wooded atrium where the feast of St. Peter is celebrated on June 29th.
Fountain of Santa Irene
Called by many the Fountain of Eternal Youth where pilgrims come to enjoy the water, this fountain is located right next to the aforementioned chapel. The story goes that the waters of the Fountain of Saint Irene had the power to cure the plagues and the ills of the pilgrims, which is why it became a historical place.
Ten minutes from O Pedrouzo and close to a campsite is our welcome accommodation Alojamientos Rurales O Acrivo Right on the Camino path about 1km from O Pedrouzo. A recent review :- “Well appointed, clean, comfortable little motel type rooms. Laundry facilities were very much appreciated & pool was open, which was fab for tired legs. Restaurant was handy for evening meal & breakfast.”
O Pedrouzo is a locality of 540 inhabitants. It is erroneously cited on many occasions as Arca. However, O Pedrouzo is a locality of the parish of Arca and capital of the Concello of O Pino.
This location should prove to be more peaceful than O Pedrouzo, and we have one more day’s sojourn to go.
PALAS de REI to MELIDE. 15 KM
13 May
https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=SwUG5BcsRmk&si=dMbzyP-cXIp2AOWM WITCHWOOD by The Strawbs.
SAN XULIÁN HAS A SHOCKING STORY TO TELL
According to legend*, when Xulián was a young man, it was prophesied that he would one day kill his own parents. To keep the prophecy from coming true, Xulián left town in an effort to stay away from his parents and keep them safe from his own hand. He eventually built a new life for himself away from his parents (likely in Portugal) and married a young woman.
Soon after Xulián’s marriage, his parents set out to locate their lost son’s new home and found his wife there alone. She, unaware of the prophecy, was thrilled to finally meet her mother and father-in-law, welcoming them into the home and even offering hers and Xulián’s bed to the weary travelers while she attended church.
Unfortunately, Xulián soon returned home before his wife and unexpectedly found two people in his bed. Assuming that it was his wife and a secret lover, he murdered both of his sleeping parents in a blind rage.
Immediately realizing his mistake and that the prophecy had come true, Xulián and his wife began a pilgrimage to Rome to seek forgiveness for his sins from the pope. As his penance, Xulián was ordered to devote his life to caring for pilgrims. He did so, and he and his wife were both canonized as saints after their deaths. This story is entirely according to legend and is not officially verified by the Catholic church, but it makes for a good tale, anyway.
https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=Ea_GmMMVbUk&si=5uo-S2RCA-uEG043 “ Woman in the Wall” – The Beautiful South
Rebuilt in the 18th century this church has an interesting legend attributed to its founding. It was said that a nearby fountain was emanting a “heavenly odor” and at night a “shining light”. Villagers, seeing this as a sign from above, proceeded to dig at the source of this divine intervention and found an image of the Virgin Mary there. They immediately placed it on the altar of the church. The one catch was that the image would not stay where it was placed and somehow returned to the fountain. This pattern repeated itself over several days until the villagers carved the tympanum we see here today and dedicated the church to the Virgin Mary. Satisfied, the image of the Virgin remained on the altar and has been in the church ever since. To add to the legend, it was believed by villagers in the 1960’s that the she returned to the fountain every night to comb her hair.
And another style of granary used for storing harvested foods. On leaving we cross a single arch bridge over the River Seco
https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=y7BUXRsTbvI&si=kbbpFG2rQI-8rE0z
Onwards to Furelos and a more memorable bridge .
San Xoán de Furelos Church, just next to the French Way, preserves part of its Medieval Romanesque architecture, and more specifically, its southern wall. Inside, on the right side, we can find the impressive Neogothic altarpiece of the Santo Cristo, which was created by the sculptor born in Furelos, Manuel Cagide.
The Ethnographical Museum of Melide was recently opened, just next to the church and the bridge.
South of Furelos from the Camino,archaeologists have unearthed much older guardians of the land and people,such as 2000 year old burial grounds called mamoas.
And finally, Melide.
The northwest region of Spain has been inhabited since the Neolithic period. Melide itself began to grow and become important after the discovery of the tomb of Saint James.
From the 10th Century, Melide grew as the popularity of the Camino de Santiago did. With the increasing number of pilgrims on both the Primitivo and French routes, traders and innkeepers began to set up along these routes.
In the early 14th Century, the Archbishop of Santiago, Berenguel de Landoira stayed in Melide on his way to Santiago to take up his Bishopric. To thank the village for their hospitality, he granted them permission to build a fortress and charge taxes.
In the 15th Century, Melide played a central role in the Irmandiña Revolts against the power of the local barons. It was during these revolts that the walls of the town and the fortress were destroyed. The stone however was later used in the construction of the Convent of Sancti Spiritus.
In the 19th Century, Melide played its role in the fight against Napoleon’s troops during the War of Independence. Despite being outnumbered by the French the troops managed to push the French into a retreat. Less than half of the fighters had firearms, but they were assisted by villagers wielding rudimentary tools and sharpened sticks.
Despite many people leaving the town since the 1950’s Melide is still going strong. Today, tourism from the Camino plays a major role in the economy of the town, alongside more traditional agricultural activities.
Melide, located in the region of Galicia in northwest Spain, is the only town where two Camino routes meet. The Camino Primitivo(Original Way) stops in Melide and the Camino Frances (French Way) passes through.
This town is well equipped and accustomed to helping pilgrims. After all, the Primitivo is the oldest route and the French is the busiest! I have stayed in Melide at least twice . Once 20 years ago on my first Camino and relatively recently , coming in on the Camino Primitivo.
Despite being inland, Melide’s best dish and one you must try when here is ‘Pulpo á Feira’, boiled octopus. To enjoy this dish like a local it should be accompanied with bread, cachelos (boiled potatoes) and red wine.
https://poserontour.com/melide/ A chatty style guide to Melide
PORTOMARIN TO PALAS de REI 17 KM EXPECT THE FIRST EUCALYPTUS TREES AND POSSIBLY SOME FOG ON LEAVING.
3 Mayhttps://music.youtube.com/watch?v=ag8XcMG1EX4&si=sN9VvR0mVndG9eYy
EVERY WHERE YOU GO ALWAYS TAKE THE WEATHER WITH YOU
A short walk to the bridge over a small tributary of the Belesar dam. We head west through ancient forests and make a slight climb – easy – so we shall be back on higher pasture land interspersed with Pine forests . We shall pass through a number of small hamlets most of which will house a bar or cafe.
After 7 km or so we reach Gonzar and a welcoming sign.
Very soon we reach Castromayor with its ancient Castro – a 200 metre detour but very worthwhile apparently.
The
Castros are homes built by the ancient Celts from the years 600 BC until the 1st century with the arrival of the Roman Empire in Galicia. They are characterized by their circular plan and later their square or rectangular plan, due to the Roman influence. In many of the forts of Galicia that are still preserved thanks to archaeological rehabilitations, visitors can imagine what life and culture were like in the past.
The Castromaior fort. In this castro, developed in the Iron Age, it was inhabited between the fourth centuries BC and I AD until three different populations, until its abandonment with the first Roman approaches. Of him they emphasize his big dimensions, since it counts on an area of approximately 5 hectares, and his good state of conservation. Between 2006 and 2010 it was the center of archaeological works in order to discover its entire structure, thereby achieving that in 2010 it obtained the title of Cultural Interest. Thanks to this title and being located a few meters from the route that connects the French Way with Santiago de Compostela, it has become one of the most popular locations on the Camino de Santiago. Lovely song to follow by Joni Mitchell.
https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=Pbn6a0AFfnM&si=umeh4X0AKGafIVDe
https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=LCDznEwoY8E&si=_1DiLWgk51TLNjUT
History: VENTAS de NARON
The year 820 was an important one for Ventas de Naron, and for Christian Spain. For Ventas, it was the site of a battle between the Muslim and Christian forces. The Muslim forces aimed to expand their territory to the north and the Christians, led by the Asturian King Alfonso II the chaste, sent them back. For Christian Spain, it was also the year that the bones of our favorite Apostle were rediscovered. Not long after the very same Alfonso would become the first pilgrim (the primitivo), would verify the relics, would build a church to house them, and would set in motion a course of events that would see the remaining Muslim forces defeated.
We climb the Sierra Ligonde to the highest point of the day (720m), before dropping down into the ancient hamlet of Lameiros.
Ligonde was a place full of historical significance during the medieval period and is actually two hamlets. The first is known as Ligonde Ligonde and is at the top of the hill. The first of the sites here that we saw was the ancient cementerio de peregrinos (pilgrim cemetery). It is located on an old farm named Leira da rúa and its presence would seem to indicate that somewhere near was a pilgrim hospital or hospice.
The Casa de Carnero, founded by the powerful Ulloa family and as the sign below says, the place where Carlos V, on March 24 of 1520 stayed while on his way to be crowned Emperor. Felipe II, his son, also stayed here on May 20, 1554 while on his way to La Coruna sail to England to wed Mary Tudor. In the 16th century this house was given the right of asylum. This meant that anyone accused of a crime or fleeing justice was instantly “freed” upon crossing into the house.
Unusually for a wayside cross, the Ligonde Cruceiro has a Pietà carved on the reverse of the top of the cross. Clad only in a loincloth, the dead body of Jesus lies across the thighs of his seated mother. And, continuing the theme of mortality. “ Losing My Religion “ by REM.
https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=Efa6BAWPm9o&si=NpHa7EXM2XAajf2B
In Ligonde, in addition to its famous cruzeiro, the cross where the hospital supported by the Ulloa family is supposed to have been, there is also an old pilgrim cemetery, which is located on an old farm called Leira da rúa. A plaque helps us stop and contemplate what is today a green meadow, and where hundreds of pilgrims who made the Camino once rested eternally.
On the outskirts of Palas de Rei, we enter Rosario.
O Rosario is a small town of 25 inhabitants, located at a height from which you can see Monte Sacro, a place loaded with pilgrim legends, partly because of its proximity to Santiago. The name of the locality is because the pilgrims stopped to pray the rosary looking at the sacred summit.
One of the main legends of this magical place is collected in the Codex Calixtino. In its pages it says that in the time of Queen Lupa, a mythical character who ruled the county and that was allied with the Romans, a miracle happened.
The disciples of Santiago the Apostle came to her to ask for a cart and some oxen that allowed them to move the body of the Apostle to the graveyard. They say that Queen Lupa sent them up to the sacred peak in search of oxen. Under this request, the idea was hidden that the dragons and oxen that inhabited that mountain would kill them.
When the disciples reached the peak they were, indeed, attacked by the dragon. So, before the imminent fatal outcome, they made the sign of the cross. The gesture provoked the death of the dragon and the oxen that roamed the surroundings became calm. Such a miracle provoked the Queen’s conversion to Christianity and her vassals.
In addition to this legend, there are countless other legends in the area. The majority related to mythological beings of the Galician tradition that lived in the mysterious caves around Mount Sacro.
Money Sacro is approximately 12 km from Santiago de Compostela.
We then enter Palas de Rei.
Palas de Rei, “obligatory rest stop” according to the Codex Calixtinus
The name Palas de Rei is supposed to come from Pallatium regis (royal palace) because it was the residence of the Visigothic monarch Witiza at the beginning of the 8th century. The history of this quiet village is undoubtedly closely linked to the French Pilgrim’s Way to Santiago de Compostela. The Codex Calixtinus records that the final stage to the tomb of the apostle starts from this point, 68 kilometres of a journey that Amery Picaud defined as “moderate”.
Thus, with the medieval boom in pilgrimages, the locality underwent a significant expansion. The town of Palas de Rei has an outstanding heritage. It was one of the favourite places of residence of the Galician nobility.
A population of 3600 – it is a working farm town. The Camino winds through the town
https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=KrGi8ODOWR0&si=a8LeERfgGsYSCPvA
Romanesque in origin, from the last third of the 12th century, only the façade retains its original construction; It was renovated in 1955. The temple has a Latin cross plan with a rectangular nave, and with two side chapels, in addition to the pentagonal presbytery. Next to the door, which has a semicircular arch and two archivolts on decorated capitals, there is an image of the Virgin of Socorro. The altarpiece in the main chapel is neoclassical in style.
Maravillosa Pensión, y su dueña muy dulce, servicial y encantadora! Hay buena energía y actitud, uno se siente como en casa! Las habitaciones son lindas, modernas, muy cómodas y amplias. Estamos haciendo el camino De Santiago, somos un grupo de 7 personas y estamos contentos y hemos podido descansar! Recomendada para los Peregrinos!
“Wonderful Guesthouse, and its owner very sweet, helpful and charming! There is good energy and attitude, you feel at home! The rooms are nice, modern, very comfortable and spacious. We are doing the Camino De Santiago, we are a group of 7 people and we are happy and we have been able to rest! Recommended for Pilgrims!”
“The most interesting part of the pilgrimage
The Camino de Santiago is indeed a unique and enriching experience, one of the joys of which is interacting with pilgrims from all over the world. The Pilgrimage Route attracts people from different countries, cultures and faith backgrounds, who carry their own stories, beliefs and purposes with them on this historic walking journey.
Connecting with other pilgrims on the pilgrimage is a special experience, creating deep emotional connections through sharing the joys, challenges and insights of the journey. During the long walk, pilgrims can encourage and support each other, share experiences and wisdom, and get through the highs and lows of the journey together.
Interacting with pilgrims from around the world is also an opportunity for cultural exchange and understanding. By talking with pilgrims from different countries, you can learn about their culture, traditions and lifestyles, broaden your horizons, and enhance mutual understanding and respect.
Additionally, interacting with other pilgrims can bring unexpected surprises and inspiration. Sometimes, a simple conversation, a shared laugh or a collaboration can become precious memories during the journey, allowing people to feel the connection and resonance between people.
Therefore, communicating with pilgrims from all over the world is one of the most interesting and rewarding parts of the Spanish Pilgrimage Route. May every communication become a valuable asset in your journey and make you feel the connection and warmth between humans. I wish us a fruitful exchange with many pilgrims on the pilgrimage and a smooth and enjoyable journey.”
HALFWAY OR THEREABOUTS – SARRIA TO PORTOMARIN,22.7 KM.
25 Aprhttps://youtu.be/VwhZmQHHQ34?si=Rz_ Halfway to Paradise by the late Billy Fury – Couldn’t resist it! 🤣 Great song though.
It will be interesting to compare our thoughts about Sarria as we exit along the Rua Mayor,passing the Convento de la Magdalena, where the camino turns left and we descend the hill before crossing the Rio Celeiro over the Ponte Aspera, following the river,we then cross train tracks and begin the first climb of the day.
Ponte da Áspera collects two periods between its stones. It conserves three semicircular arches of Romanesque invoice, built in granite. The rest of the bridge is later, since it was very deteriorated, and dates from the 18th century, in the middle of the Modern Age. This late addition is built in slate.
This bridge that leads to Barbadelo, the next stop on this stage of the Camino de Santiago, is one of the seven emblematic points of the Camino chosen for a rehabilitation project. The vegetation is cleared periodically so as not to leave the image of an abandoned Sarria in the imagination of the pilgrims. A ponte da Áspera hides a lot of history to let it go unnoticed among the brambles and ferns.
Passing through an “ enchanted “ Oak forest and 3.7 km along we reach Barbadelo with its Romanesque church of Santiago de Barbadelo.
An informative link :-https://www.caminodesantiago.gal/en/recurso/4502/igrexa-parroquial-de-santiago-de-barbadelo
Next village is Morgade with another tempting cafe. We will encounter some large medieval pavements,stones of the millennia – old path . Also, dozens of Horreos, most filled with dried corn for the farm animals.
Leaving Morgade, we continue through forests and pastures but also through vineyards that are part of Lugos province’s Ribeira Sacra wine region .
https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=RKk0Nf5n1BM&si=OWklP6F8wKWVPW5C
The path descends to the village of Ferreiros – its pilgrim – friendly history going back to the 12 th century – Ferreiros means blacksmith.
Moving on we reach the the tiny oasis of Mercadoiro with its albergue and an interesting general store.
Onwards through Vilacha, approaching Portomarin
into the valley of the River Mino and Portomarin will be in sight.
We cross a high modern bridge to enter Portomarin ( pop. 1528 )
https://www.galiciatips.com/en/destinations/portomarin/
You may be able to see the outlines of some the original village buildings below the waterline .
https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=ju_a2-Pve4g&si=xVG5UdLdTeN8POUw
“ Wherever I Lay My Hat, That’s My Home – Paul Young.
At what is a halfway point for me, at least, I should re-acknowledge some of my sources:
MOON – CAMINO DE SANTIAGO -Beebe Bahrami
THE CAMINO FRANCES – Wise Pilgrim Guide
Camino de Santiago – Camino Frances – John Brierley
The Road to Santiago- Michael Jacobs
Camino de Santiago – Village to Village – Dintman & Landis
Camino de Santiago- Sergi Ramis
( And the 🛜 which makes us all “thieves of ideas”…& photos )
“Journeys are lived three times: when you plan them, when you live them, and when you remember them… ”
Everything is cycles, time moves on. Too fast when you’re having a better time.
So much to wish for this trip, so much to plan it, so much organization, make lists, check the Internet, research, send messages, agree, make decisions.
And on the other hand, nerves, fear, doubt, distress, excitement, joy, anxiety.
This is all part of the journey, there are things that are resolved day by day, there are decisions that are made in the moment.
The most important thing is to enjoy everything, live intensely, every moment, every moment.
“ Finished the Camino from SJPDP earlier this month. Like others I could talk about the personal experience I had, but I would rather pay tribute to the local Spanish people who were overwhelmingly polite, welcoming and friendly. Add to that the great food, beer, wine, culture, architecture etc etc- they have so much to proud of. Thank you Spain.” On a forum 26/04/24
But Portomarín is undoubtedly famous for its good eau-de-vie, so much so that its gastronomic festival honours this concoction made using alquitaras, the oldest method of distilling eau-de-vie. You can’t leave this charming village without trying a shot. The most traditional ones are blanca, crema de orujo, coffee liqueur, and aguardiente de hierbas, called “liquid ibuprofeno” by many tavernkeepers as they assure that they cure all the aches and pains of the pilgrim. “ An Orujo …Gracias “.
“Liquid Ibuprofeno ” – Love it…but not after breakfast!
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