LYME REGIS – Situated on the world-famous Jurassic Coast.

Making our way towards the Coastal path we came across another local hero with a sea faring pedigree.

It was a most enjoyable morning in what is a charming resort – no high rise buildings or “ tat” – Lyme Regis retains a traditional English seaside atmosphere and seems to be doing very well with it remaining so.

Sunday afternoon in Ilminster

In Victorian times the town was an important staging post for travellers with east-west and north-south routes converging there. The town is now by – passed by the A 358 & A 303.

The other one looks as though it’s receiving some much needed TLC !

After breakfast,on Saturday morning, we drove six miles or so to South Petherton, to begin our circular walk through small unspoilt villages, arable fields and orchards.

One of many Market towns hereabouts.

Time to move on from Merriot’s parish church after a lunch stop.

After another welcome dinner at The Shrubbery, I put on a bit of a “ Folderol” for the group and after a long day the “ audience “ did well to keep up the pace!

I have driven past the motorway exit to Taunton many times but never felt tempted to visit Somerset’s county town. However, we decided to break our journey to The Shrubbery Hotel Ilminster, at Taunton. Choosing the Gateway Park and Ride proved to be a good option and avoided the hassle of driving into the town and finding somewhere to park.

First port of call was a coffee stop, almost opposite the bus stop – The Bakery, housed in a former Royal Bank of Scotland.

Much of the centre is semi pedestrianised and we were soon struck by a number of interesting buildings.

We were only planning on a couple of hours, to include a picnic, ideally in a green spot and by pure chance we happened upon part of the town’s Heritage Trail, by taking a random turn down an alley into Bath Place – a row of original 19th century shop frontages and small mansions.

We then came to the Weir which was perfect for an alfresco lunch on a nearby bench.

Closer to the town centre – the Taunton Minster’ striking tower.

Then it was a short wait for the bus back to the ParknRide. What struck me about Taunton during this short saunter, was what an interesting and well kept town it was, with the added attractions of tempting shops, restaurants and pubs.

It was a ten mile drive to Ilminster from Taunton and the hotel was easy to locate

A warm welcome with afternoon tea and cakes awaited us and first impressions were most favourable .

Mahón, the capital of Menorca has an astonishing history and reading about it gives the visitor an improved understanding of its place in the island’s history and how it became the Capital city,displacing Ciutadella in the process.

MAHÓN’s TOUGH HISTORY

While nowadays, this city is a bustling centre for tourism and trade, this wasn’t always the case. In fact, this city was once riddled with destruction and suffering and was once one of the most important military ports in the entire Mediterranean. Many historians believe the name Menorca,Mahon comes from the Carthaginian general Mago Barca, who was the brother to Hannibal and who is thought to have taken refuge in the city during the year 205 BC.

After the fall of the Western Roman Empire, this city became part of the Eastern Roman Empire and an incredibly important port. Port cities were considered highly valuable at the time and they were being used as the main source of trade and transportation. Unfortunately, as a result, it suffered a tremendous number of raids from both Viking and Arab expeditions. This continued for centuries until the city was finally conquered by the Islamic Caliphate of Cordoba in the year 903.

Islamic Moorish rule lasted in Mahon until the year 1287 when it was eventually reconquered by Alfonso III, the King of Aragon. He made the city a part of the Kingdom of Majorca and also part of the Crown of Aragon.

The Crown of Aragon was a composite monarchy, which is to say a group of separate kingdoms all ruled under one king.

This was a win-win situation for everyone involved as joining this composite monarchy provided the city with enormous protection while the city itself offered a brand new trade port for these kingdoms to take advantage of.

It was during this time that the city of Mahon has named as the capital which conveniently served as the residence for the Governor of Menorca.

During the year 1756, the island was lost to French control after what would later be known as the Naval Battle of Menorca.However, after the French lost the 7 Years War, the island was returned to the British in the year 1763, but this ownership wouldn’t last long. In the year 1782, the French and Spanish started a combined five-month invasion which took a massive toll on the island and the British eventually surrendered it.In 1783, control of the island was transferred back to Spain according to the Peace of Paris.

However, the British would eventually recapture the important port island in 1798 during the French Revolutionary Wars.

 Luckily, when the French and British decided it was finally time to end all the hostilities between them, they agreed to withdraw their militaries and claims from certain territories including the island of Menorca, which was finally passed back to Spain, where it has stayed ever since.

RECENT HISTORY OF MENORCA

During the 20th century, Spain itself suffered through a terrible civil war. At this time, the entire island remained loyal to the Republic. However, it was captured by the Nationalists in the year 1939.

 Unfortunately, during the battle to capture the Island, Italian and Spanish Nationalist bomber planes bombed the city of Mahon Menorca Spain and destroyed many important historical sites. Luckily, a number of structures remained undamaged or easily repairable making it possible for tourists to still enjoy the wonders of this incredible city to this day.

The history of Mahon has been riddled with conquests, sieges, and battles. However, throughout all that terror this stunning city has also bloomed under the constant cultural influences and changing powers.

The city now serves as the seat of the Island Council of Menorca and quite a bit of effort has been made to promote tourism as a primary source of income for the island’s residents helping it to remain one of the richest port cities in all of Spain.

The Capital City of Mahon where people love walking through the historic areas whilst taking in the stunning Mahon Harbour which happens to be one of the deepest natural harbours in the world.

 

Many delicate facades in Mahón

Ciutadella was founded by the Carthaginians and was once Menorca’s capital – its centre of commerce and culture, and was known to the Moors as “Medina Minurqa.”

“The eternal capital behind the scenes. The quiet and beautiful Ciutadella. A place in which every stone, every street and every mooring in its port harbours a history of battles and conquests.  Many people think that Mahón has always been the capital of Menorca, as it is nowadays. Its primacy, however, is relatively recent: for centuries, until the arrival of the British on the isle – early in 1700 – Ciutadella was the great nucleus from which the entirety of Menorca was governed. Relegated to a secondary place with the arrival of the English, the civitavella of Alphonse III lost its influence.”

Ciutadella is a city to explore on foot, especially the historic quarter, where an obelisk dominates the main square.

The cathedral is built on top of the High Mosque that existed under Arab rule. It is truly monumental, with one nave and six chapels.

If you’re a fan of seafood, traditional cuisine from Menorca, which largely based on seafood, is unlikely to disappoint. 

One day we walked along a road by the sea and were curious about the distinctive villas, some of which were early a 100 years old.

MENORCA ,SEPTEMBER 2024, PATRIMONIO MUNDIAL – 11 DAY HOLIDAY

Over the years, everyone who had visited Menorca that I listened to,had only  praise . 

So it is a little surprising that it took so long for me to actually visit this prize of an island.

And,it is a relatively small island.

The transfer from Mahon airport to our base near Cuitadella,bisected the Island and took less than 50 minutes .

Los Lentiscos apartments was chosen because it was budget level, cheerful and near to the many “ Calas “ which are a feature of Western Menorca.

There are no serious rivers in Menorca but there are many coves along the coast of varying size known as “ Calas “

Initial reactions on arrival : Mahon airport is  carefully landscaped,on a  human, welcoming scale ( contrast to Bham ) and competent Jet2 staff were on hand to direct us to the transfer coach. The drive across the island was calm and we were able to notice the changes in landscape from  the Capital, transversing some hillier areas in the  centre of the island, by –  passing interesting towns like Alaior and Ferreries which Barbara and Hannah had visited on an earlier holiday here.

Very quickly, we came to Aveniguda des Delfines , the main road  into the Urbanisation in which our apartments were located – Les Delifines has a particularly naff sculpture placed on an island  en route.

However, happily,  this wasn’t to typify our visit.

Once ensconced  in our two apartments, a walk was needed after being sedentary for so many hours….inevitably this involved finding a supermarket ( easy ) and stocking up the fridge . Apartments suit us as we can choose to eat out  and shop locally and to cook from time to time.

The apartment had a good sized fridge and freezer section,with a two  ring burner and a microwave – just about the minimum for “ home cooking”.

Being on the ground floor turned out to be a bonus as we could walk out from the patio directly to the pool area, bar and reception in no time at all..

Being off season it was relatively uncrowded and very quiet – like a lot of places, not somewhere you would want to be in peak season – affable staff in reception, at the bar and  importantly the  people who make it all work – 

The room cleaners , bar staff , pool maintenance guys and gardeners – ambience.

The evening concluded with a short walk to the Yuca restaurant ( recommended but expensive) for dinner – the Gazpacho was very tasty, the wine good and the agglomeration of meat,potatoes and aubergine was artful and very satisfying.

I had already sensed that being on  an island, inevitably, prices would be higher than  mainland Spain, but the food was good even if some of the portions were  rather small….This was not to be the benchmark as some  later dining out was to prove remarkable.

Plentiful “ Supermarkets “ – but no  fresh,green vegetables; only salad items and a reasonable selection of fruit.

There were some erotic seeds available though….

Little in the way of natural yogurt, creme fraiche or similar – as I intended to cook on some of the evenings, this was a little frustrating.

Similarly, there was no butchery section as such in any of the various supermarkets visited. – fresh burgers, strips of pork loin and chicken, no fresh fish – it’s enough to make you a vegetarian!

One of the main differences to Spain  was “ Tapas” which we traditionally associate with small portions accompanied by a drink. Here, they are basically a starter to a meal and a good size, too. In one restaurant I ordered “ Patatas Bravas” from the Tapas section and it proved to be more than a big enough portion for three – and very good they were, too.

Even in Cuitadella there was no opportunity to ramble from one bar to another sampling small, delicious items, plentiful as the bars and restaurants are.

CALAS

Menorca, besides its reduced size has more than … 100 coves! say “calas” which is the translation in Spanish and everybody talks about calas here . Due to this insane number of calas, they say that “the best one” doesn’t exist.  The waters in the calas are ALL incredible. They can be blue or turquoise, and have more or less fish. – ideal for children,paddlers and snorkelling.

Despite its popularity it was a calm and quiet spot.

CAMIS not Caminos – “walks” basically – we walked sections of the Cami de Cavalls.

CAMI DE CAVALLS

More than a mere path: the history of the «Camí de Cavalls»

The Camí de Cavalls has a special significance for the local population, and not simply a historical one. The resurgence of the path is the result of hard work on behalf of many people, who believed it should be available as a public right of way, for cultural and social, as well as historical reasons. Years ago Menorca had a beautiful coastal path that went right round the island, crossing remote bays, gullies, woods and fields. It was known as the Camí de Cavalls (Bridle Path), and used by the British soldiers on horseback to guard the coast when they occupied Menorca. This wonderful circuit has been lovingly restored and signposted so that nowadays everyone can enjoy it. It 

It is 185 miles in length and encircles the entire island in 20 stages .

We walked two of the stages. From the apartment to Punta de Nata was the first

Stone plays a starring role along this section, as the path is particularly rocky. It is relatively easy to cover, however, because the profile is quite flat and only varies when passing small gorges dug into the rocks that lead to the sea.

A couple of days later we walked another section of the Cami de Cavalls southwards. Taking the 61 into CIUTADELLA and then the 64 bus to the start of the Cami at Cala Blanca, walking from its attractive beach.

Having completed this section it was bacon and cheese bocadillos for lunch with a Tinto Verano, then the number 65 bus back to CIUTADELLA. Both Camis were about 9 miles .

The Camino Frances is the most popular of the many Caminos that cross Europe, but principally Spain,Portugal and France. Since Covid, annual numbers are back approaching 350 000 Pelegrinos per annum.

Having walked it,over three years,2022/23/24,I can quite understand why.

The logistics are good – signage, accommodation is plentiful and varied,bars & cafes are usually available along the way – the paths are acceptable for most of the 900 Kilometres plus; inevitably there were a few exceptions, normally descents from mountain tops!

In early summer 2022, our party was made up of 8 SC Pelegrinos: Sue W. June, Mary,Anita, Tom,Rob,Mike and myself. We flew to Biarritz and got a minibus transfer to St Jean Pied de Port. From there it was our intention to walk to Burgos, in about a fortnight , often in very warm weather. The Pyrenees were magnificent.

One of the highlights came early, the first leg up the Pyrenees to Refuge Orisson. Despite some trepidation, everyone managed the first day’s climb quite comfortably and we spent a relaxing afternoon on the patio-balcony, enjoying the views across the Pyrenees.

It is a tradition at Orisson, which is the first night for most Pelegrinos to introduce themselves after the communal meal. We got to know North Americans, Australians, Koreans, Italians, French and some I have forgotten. Mea culpa.

For the next few days we would often casually meet up with them in cafes, or at a restaurant in the evening.

Many of them were intending to walk all the way to Santiago de Compostela,taking five or six weeks, and staying overnight in traditional albergues en route – that is some achievement – bear in mind that sleeping arrangements are in bunk beds in dormitories of various sizes, with usually a communal kitchen to prepare your evening meal, lights out by ten and out next morning by 08.00. Very often payment is by donation – usually €10.00.

We were “ Ensuitepilgrims” and unashamedly so!

All our accommodation was booked in advance six months before departure- after a day’s walk you need the certainty of a room, your own shower and loo, plus sometimes even a balcony.

To obtain your Compostela ( certificate of completion ) it is necessary to get your Pilgrim Passport stamped at least once a day – normally where you stayed the night. These are available in all accommodations,bars, restaurants and churches, if you found one that was open.

We enjoyed some interesting food and….beverages

We stayed in some atmospheric places

STAGE II BURGOS TO ASTORGA

In 2023, we were fewer in number, Ranjit joined the group which was now minus June,Mary and Anita – six in all. We flew to Madrid and transferred by coach back up to Burgos. The weather was quite cool for the first few days and for the first time in over fifty years visiting Spain, I was glad to have trousers rather than shorts. A large section of this walk to Astorga,over a fortnight again, was across a huge, flat plain called the Meseta. Quite a contrast to the previous year’s walk – it is a unique experience and despite its reputation for flatness, there were always places of interest along the way, as all villages and towns have a story or two in their history of serving and welcoming pilgrims over many centuries.

There were some interesting constructions en route

These was great food and drink to be enjoyed as ever on a Camino.

The weather warmed up as we walked further westwards but not approaching the heat of last year .

We always managed to find a place for a drink stop

As we approached Astorga – our final destination – I looked back over the fortnight and wondered how anyone could find the Meseta section boring; we had a great experience.

STAGE III – ASTORGA TO SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA

Finally,Summer of’24 and the group underwent a striking change in make up.

Mike, Rob,Tom and myself were joined by our very own Christina and four ramblers from Solihull : Val ( a former, long-standing colleague of mine ) her brother Ray, Myra and Richard. The group met on two occasions prior to the Camino, getting to know one another. So that was five “first time” Pelegrinos which proved to be very refreshing, seeing and enjoying things for the first time, it brought back the essential joy and simplicity of the Camino.

Ryanair changed the flight days which meant leaving two days earlier -this meant an additional day in Astorga – that was no hardship as it is one of the most fascinating ( small ) cities on the Camino, with plenty to enjoy and explore .

We set off eventually, in fine weather , 269 KM to S de C. which would include the two highest climbs of the entire Camino and two careful descents.

We were never without views of mountain ranges for the first few days and they were a splendid backdrop. The new members soon adjusted to the routine of cases at Reception by 08.00 ( to be transported by the ever reliable Spanish post office – the Correos – all booked well ahead. Setting off time was down to individuals, we didn’t process!The signage ( follow the arrows ) was as reliable as ever and as this is the most populous section of the Frances, there were always Pelegrinos not far away.

In the Galician countryside you come across these constructions in every farmyard and in many people’s gardens – I love them.

Christina, never one to let a challenge go unmet, took a dip in the pool on a very chilly ( to me !) day.

Evening routine was a meeting at 19.00 – “ Sharpeners” where over an aperitif the next day’s walk would be discussed,followed by dinner together, which was invariably good fun, once the menu had been explained!

We traversed some lovely landscapes

At one hotel we were offered complimentary drinks if we agreed to pose for a photo

We did not experience much rain but on one occasion we had to improvise some rainwear from two bin sacks given to us by a friendly girl behind the bar in which we were sheltering.

There were so many memorable places and times on this stage – to get the full picture go to “ ensuitepilgrim.blog.wordpress.com” for fuller accounts of all three stages. Just scroll through the Archives on the right.

The Camino is Drink,Eat,Sleep,Walk and repeat – imagine a fortnight’s sauntering and not really knowing anything much about where you would be eating, drinking sleeping every night – that’s probably the best part.

My grateful thanks to all the Pelegrinos who joined us on all three stages of this Camino – especially their good humour and stamina.

I have walked through 27 of these places over the years – I have been very fortunate – where next? Not sure.

The Piper at the Gates of Dawn – PINK FLOYD

https://music.youtube.com/playlist?list=OLAK5uy_l8UEy84ThXxsnI_WxAg_UW0TXqK6nBMO8&si=FJYRIyu-PRGLZ6VU

Next stop,was the Asbastos Market

We met up in the cathedral square as arranged for group photos.

We left A RUA at 08.10, a fine mizzle was falling. Opposite the exit, on the edge of a farmyard was a nicely situated Horreos.

After an hour’s walking we reached a point 15 KM from Santiago. A bar called 15 Km in fact. We obtained a sello / stamp for our pilgrim passports and after doing so we saw a long line of secondary school children trundling along. We decided to get some coffee and give them time to move on.

On any Camino you can expect to come upon unusual statues, shrines and even memorials of a pilgrim who died along the way.

Two hours or so further on we came by a campsite, which I remembered passing five years ago and it looked to be very popular – it was closed and only the cafe seemed to be functioning, with a couple of Camino trinket stalls in the reception car park.

After the descent from Mount Gozo we entered the outskirts of Santiago – I know from past experience that it’s still,a long walk until,you reach the historic centre of the city.

We eventually reached the historic centre of Santiago and its famous square the Pzaza da Obradoiro

We received a tip off that some Americans had paid for the Botafumeiro to be swung at the 7.30 pm Pilgrim mass( €500 ) and so some of the group went to enjoy the spectacle.

Thanks to Christina,Val and Mike for some of the photos

It was shortly after 08.00 when we began the way proper. As usual, the group divided into a solo, 2 pairs and a foursome – each according to their wishes or needs. These mini groups would often meet up along the way,more usually at refreshment stops.

The stage between Arzúa and O Pedrouzo is of low difficulty, it goes along forest tracks, crossing woods and fields. A day though in which we must take extreme precautions, as we will have to cross the N-547 road several times, with heavy traffic. We will walk on flat and comfortable terrain, finding plenty of bars and places to rest, perfect to take the stage calmly. Santiago is getting closer and closer.

Steady rain for the rest of the saunter through woods and criss crossing the N 547 – a camera is fiddly work whilst wearing a poncho and the dreary weather, although it did not inspire much in the way of taking photos,did not detract from the enjoyment of the Camino; plus the growing realisation that 12 miles no longer meant so much of a challenge!

( Thanks to Christina for some of the photos)

The forecast for our last day’s saunter tomorrow- Thursday – is looking brighter and drier for Santiago de Compostela.z