CALAS,CAMIS VIA CIUTADELLA

23 Sep

MENORCA ,SEPTEMBER 2024, PATRIMONIO MUNDIAL – 11 DAY HOLIDAY

Over the years, everyone who had visited Menorca that I listened to,had only  praise . 

So it is a little surprising that it took so long for me to actually visit this prize of an island.

And,it is a relatively small island.

The transfer from Mahon airport to our base near Cuitadella,bisected the Island and took less than 50 minutes .

From South East to Midwest

Los Lentiscos apartments was chosen because it was budget level, cheerful and near to the many “ Calas “ which are a feature of Western Menorca.

There are no serious rivers in Menorca but there are many coves along the coast of varying size known as “ Calas “

Initial reactions on arrival : Mahon airport is  carefully landscaped,on a  human, welcoming scale ( contrast to Bham ) and competent Jet2 staff were on hand to direct us to the transfer coach. The drive across the island was calm and we were able to notice the changes in landscape from  the Capital, transversing some hillier areas in the  centre of the island, by –  passing interesting towns like Alaior and Ferreries which Barbara and Hannah had visited on an earlier holiday here.

Airport on a human scale

Very quickly, we came to Aveniguda des Delfines , the main road  into the Urbanisation in which our apartments were located – Les Delifines has a particularly naff sculpture placed on an island  en route.

The Main Street

However, happily,  this wasn’t to typify our visit.

Once ensconced  in our two apartments, a walk was needed after being sedentary for so many hours….inevitably this involved finding a supermarket ( easy ) and stocking up the fridge . Apartments suit us as we can choose to eat out  and shop locally and to cook from time to time.

The apartment had a good sized fridge and freezer section,with a two  ring burner and a microwave – just about the minimum for “ home cooking”.

Being on the ground floor turned out to be a bonus as we could walk out from the patio directly to the pool area, bar and reception in no time at all..

Being off season it was relatively uncrowded and very quiet – like a lot of places, not somewhere you would want to be in peak season – affable staff in reception, at the bar and  importantly the  people who make it all work – 

The room cleaners , bar staff , pool maintenance guys and gardeners – ambience.

The evening concluded with a short walk to the Yuca restaurant ( recommended but expensive) for dinner – the Gazpacho was very tasty, the wine good and the agglomeration of meat,potatoes and aubergine was artful and very satisfying.

Delicioso

I had already sensed that being on  an island, inevitably, prices would be higher than  mainland Spain, but the food was good even if some of the portions were  rather small….This was not to be the benchmark as some  later dining out was to prove remarkable.

Plentiful “ Supermarkets “ – but no  fresh,green vegetables; only salad items and a reasonable selection of fruit.

There were some erotic seeds available though….

Not in any of my seed catalogues

Little in the way of natural yogurt, creme fraiche or similar – as I intended to cook on some of the evenings, this was a little frustrating.

Similarly, there was no butchery section as such in any of the various supermarkets visited. – fresh burgers, strips of pork loin and chicken, no fresh fish – it’s enough to make you a vegetarian!

One of the main differences to Spain  was “ Tapas” which we traditionally associate with small portions accompanied by a drink. Here, they are basically a starter to a meal and a good size, too. In one restaurant I ordered “ Patatas Bravas” from the Tapas section and it proved to be more than a big enough portion for three – and very good they were, too.

Even in Cuitadella there was no opportunity to ramble from one bar to another sampling small, delicious items, plentiful as the bars and restaurants are.

CALAS

Menorca, besides its reduced size has more than … 100 coves! say “calas” which is the translation in Spanish and everybody talks about calas here . Due to this insane number of calas, they say that “the best one” doesn’t exist.  The waters in the calas are ALL incredible. They can be blue or turquoise, and have more or less fish. – ideal for children,paddlers and snorkelling.

This was very close by and so tranquil
Slightly wider and very quiet until the sunbed man comes, around 10.15

Despite its popularity it was a calm and quiet spot.

Access to the sea was from purpose built concrete platforms and came with a warning.
Barbara’s viewpoint. All of these Calas were in walking distance.

CAMIS not Caminos – “walks” basically – we walked sections of the Cami de Cavalls.

CAMI DE CAVALLS

More than a mere path: the history of the «Camí de Cavalls»

The Camí de Cavalls has a special significance for the local population, and not simply a historical one. The resurgence of the path is the result of hard work on behalf of many people, who believed it should be available as a public right of way, for cultural and social, as well as historical reasons. Years ago Menorca had a beautiful coastal path that went right round the island, crossing remote bays, gullies, woods and fields. It was known as the Camí de Cavalls (Bridle Path), and used by the British soldiers on horseback to guard the coast when they occupied Menorca. This wonderful circuit has been lovingly restored and signposted so that nowadays everyone can enjoy it. It 

It is 185 miles in length and encircles the entire island in 20 stages .

We walked two of the stages. From the apartment to Punta de Nata was the first

Stone plays a starring role along this section, as the path is particularly rocky. It is relatively easy to cover, however, because the profile is quite flat and only varies when passing small gorges dug into the rocks that lead to the sea.

Marker posts every 100 metres or so.
Floral beauty
A traditional Menorcan gate and this tradition is seen in fencework everywhere.
The lighthouse at Punta Nati from here we walked 3 km to the ronda ( ring road ) and took the 61 bus back home.
Passing farmyards on the way.

A couple of days later we walked another section of the Cami de Cavalls southwards. Taking the 61 into CIUTADELLA and then the 64 bus to the start of the Cami at Cala Blanca, walking from its attractive beach.

This is a very popular resort . The walk was relatively straightforward.
The walkway
Lighthouse in the distance .
We walked further on
Quite a large development here , plenty of restaurants and the like.
Anyone fancy “ wrinkly” potatoes?

Having completed this section it was bacon and cheese bocadillos for lunch with a Tinto Verano, then the number 65 bus back to CIUTADELLA. Both Camis were about 9 miles .

ASSORTED RAMBLERS SAUNTER ALONG THE CAMINO FRANCES – IN 3 STAGES

13 Aug
So true!

The Camino Frances is the most popular of the many Caminos that cross Europe, but principally Spain,Portugal and France. Since Covid, annual numbers are back approaching 350 000 Pelegrinos per annum.

Having walked it,over three years,2022/23/24,I can quite understand why.

The logistics are good – signage, accommodation is plentiful and varied,bars & cafes are usually available along the way – the paths are acceptable for most of the 900 Kilometres plus; inevitably there were a few exceptions, normally descents from mountain tops!

ZUBIRI DESCENT

In early summer 2022, our party was made up of 8 SC Pelegrinos: Sue W. June, Mary,Anita, Tom,Rob,Mike and myself. We flew to Biarritz and got a minibus transfer to St Jean Pied de Port. From there it was our intention to walk to Burgos, in about a fortnight , often in very warm weather. The Pyrenees were magnificent.

One of the highlights came early, the first leg up the Pyrenees to Refuge Orisson. Despite some trepidation, everyone managed the first day’s climb quite comfortably and we spent a relaxing afternoon on the patio-balcony, enjoying the views across the Pyrenees.

Orisson terrace

It is a tradition at Orisson, which is the first night for most Pelegrinos to introduce themselves after the communal meal. We got to know North Americans, Australians, Koreans, Italians, French and some I have forgotten. Mea culpa.

Orisson

For the next few days we would often casually meet up with them in cafes, or at a restaurant in the evening.

Many of them were intending to walk all the way to Santiago de Compostela,taking five or six weeks, and staying overnight in traditional albergues en route – that is some achievement – bear in mind that sleeping arrangements are in bunk beds in dormitories of various sizes, with usually a communal kitchen to prepare your evening meal, lights out by ten and out next morning by 08.00. Very often payment is by donation – usually €10.00.

We were “ Ensuitepilgrims” and unashamedly so!

June captures her mattress – an exceptional night!

All our accommodation was booked in advance six months before departure- after a day’s walk you need the certainty of a room, your own shower and loo, plus sometimes even a balcony.

Boomerang Cottage near Atapuerca was another memorable night.

To obtain your Compostela ( certificate of completion ) it is necessary to get your Pilgrim Passport stamped at least once a day – normally where you stayed the night. These are available in all accommodations,bars, restaurants and churches, if you found one that was open.

I ran out of space eventually and had to use the cover .

We enjoyed some interesting food and….beverages

TINTO VERANO
Slow cooked casserole in Burgos

We stayed in some atmospheric places

BURGOS
We enjoyed a memorable saunter from St Jean Pied de Port to Burgos.

STAGE II BURGOS TO ASTORGA

In 2023, we were fewer in number, Ranjit joined the group which was now minus June,Mary and Anita – six in all. We flew to Madrid and transferred by coach back up to Burgos. The weather was quite cool for the first few days and for the first time in over fifty years visiting Spain, I was glad to have trousers rather than shorts. A large section of this walk to Astorga,over a fortnight again, was across a huge, flat plain called the Meseta. Quite a contrast to the previous year’s walk – it is a unique experience and despite its reputation for flatness, there were always places of interest along the way, as all villages and towns have a story or two in their history of serving and welcoming pilgrims over many centuries.

Storks’ nests to be found on many tall buildings

There were some interesting constructions en route

A house built into a hill
If you are superstitious walk on the right
Tom looking suitably unimpressed!
An iron sculpture
Sue and Rob admiring the Meseta plains, it was surprising how often villages would suddenly emerge..
A classical gateway in a field…
Typica Meseta scene
Burgos university

These was great food and drink to be enjoyed as ever on a Camino.

Morcilla – Rob’s favourite
Best bocadillo ever
Taken by Ranjit

The weather warmed up as we walked further westwards but not approaching the heat of last year .

Leon was a “rest day” – a great place
Rose window Leon Cathedral

We always managed to find a place for a drink stop

A mysterious stone circle
An amazing medieval bridge

As we approached Astorga – our final destination – I looked back over the fortnight and wondered how anyone could find the Meseta section boring; we had a great experience.

This is the best guide book about the Camino Frances and I found it invaluable in planning our journeys.

STAGE III – ASTORGA TO SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA

Finally,Summer of’24 and the group underwent a striking change in make up.

Mike, Rob,Tom and myself were joined by our very own Christina and four ramblers from Solihull : Val ( a former, long-standing colleague of mine ) her brother Ray, Myra and Richard. The group met on two occasions prior to the Camino, getting to know one another. So that was five “first time” Pelegrinos which proved to be very refreshing, seeing and enjoying things for the first time, it brought back the essential joy and simplicity of the Camino.

Ryanair changed the flight days which meant leaving two days earlier -this meant an additional day in Astorga – that was no hardship as it is one of the most fascinating ( small ) cities on the Camino, with plenty to enjoy and explore .

We set off eventually, in fine weather , 269 KM to S de C. which would include the two highest climbs of the entire Camino and two careful descents.

260.5 KM to go

We were never without views of mountain ranges for the first few days and they were a splendid backdrop. The new members soon adjusted to the routine of cases at Reception by 08.00 ( to be transported by the ever reliable Spanish post office – the Correos – all booked well ahead. Setting off time was down to individuals, we didn’t process!The signage ( follow the arrows ) was as reliable as ever and as this is the most populous section of the Frances, there were always Pelegrinos not far away.

Vineyard

In the Galician countryside you come across these constructions in every farmyard and in many people’s gardens – I love them.

A Horreos – a grain store – wish I could have bought it home!
A slightly more unusual setting
The flèches – To be found on all sorts of places
A challenge that everyone met
One evening we had a Brazilian dinner with cocktails
This was the location for the thrill from Brazil

Christina, never one to let a challenge go unmet, took a dip in the pool on a very chilly ( to me !) day.

A warmer spot
And she could lay on an Al fresco picnic,too!

Evening routine was a meeting at 19.00 – “ Sharpeners” where over an aperitif the next day’s walk would be discussed,followed by dinner together, which was invariably good fun, once the menu had been explained!

Salud!
Menu del Dia – a Peregrino essential
Sometimes it would be handwritten on a scrap of paper

We traversed some lovely landscapes

The Bierzo region – famous for its fruit,vegetables and wine.

At one hotel we were offered complimentary drinks if we agreed to pose for a photo

Vino Tinto

We did not experience much rain but on one occasion we had to improvise some rainwear from two bin sacks given to us by a friendly girl behind the bar in which we were sheltering.

They did the trick though.

There were so many memorable places and times on this stage – to get the full picture go to “ ensuitepilgrim.blog.wordpress.com” for fuller accounts of all three stages. Just scroll through the Archives on the right.

The Camino is Drink,Eat,Sleep,Walk and repeat – imagine a fortnight’s sauntering and not really knowing anything much about where you would be eating, drinking sleeping every night – that’s probably the best part.

The Cathedral Square – Camino completed.

My grateful thanks to all the Pelegrinos who joined us on all three stages of this Camino – especially their good humour and stamina.

A FREE DAY TO SAUNTER AROUND SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA.

22 Jun
I’ve lost count of the number of times I have been to Santiago but I enjoy it just as much,everytime .
And new Camigos
My favourite Camino breakfast – Tostada y Tomate ,a little cheese and ham with the negra. The Camino is coming to terms with a growing taste for tea in Spain. I want that teapot!
First port of call this morning was the Pilgrim Office to obtain the Compostela certificate, the mileage certificate and the essential tube in which to store them – €5.00 for the mileage certificate and the tube ; the Compostela is free. Very efficient process.

Val’s certificates
Both the grounds of the Pilgrim office and Certification process have improved immeasurably in 20 years.
The best signpost walking back to the hotel.

I have walked through 27 of these places over the years – I have been very fortunate – where next? Not sure.

Ecclesiastical architecture at every turn.
Great to see youngsters enjoying the Camino – they were tapping their sticks in tune to the piper just below. I have yet to work out a tune!

The Piper at the Gates of DawnPINK FLOYD

https://music.youtube.com/playlist?list=OLAK5uy_l8UEy84ThXxsnI_WxAg_UW0TXqK6nBMO8&si=FJYRIyu-PRGLZ6VU

A useful pinning

Next stop,was the Asbastos Market

Pleasantly uncrowded but full of tasty and tempting things to eat and drink.
Serrano Hams
Pulpo
Bundles of herbs brought in from the countryside
An enormous loaf
Cerezas
Scalloped Queso
Orujo in several guises plus local wines
Bacalaho
Oysters from the Rias
You would need a tool set to get into these
Fresh fish including. Pesce d’Espada
A tiny square next to the market – perfect for coffee and people watching – Alphonso II was was looking on in the background.
Tapas with coffee- it has to be S de C
Walking back
Over two dozen different fillings in these mini empanadas.

We met up in the cathedral square as arranged for group photos.

The Solihull Rambleros
The first timers – what an achievement!
Sitting in the shade in a beautiful garden.
Birthday drinks on Richard – 🥂 feliz cumpleaños!
Thanks to all the Camigos .

DAY XIV – FROM ARZUA TO SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA – THE FINAL SAUNTER

21 Jun
Mural in O Pedrouzo.
Estimated distance today is 21 km – 12.5 miles – By the time we found the hotel in S de C it was 13.5 miles,walked mainly in drizzle.

We left A RUA at 08.10, a fine mizzle was falling. Opposite the exit, on the edge of a farmyard was a nicely situated Horreos.

After an hour’s walking we reached a point 15 KM from Santiago. A bar called 15 Km in fact. We obtained a sello / stamp for our pilgrim passports and after doing so we saw a long line of secondary school children trundling along. We decided to get some coffee and give them time to move on.

An imaginative table napkin of today’s final route.

On any Camino you can expect to come upon unusual statues, shrines and even memorials of a pilgrim who died along the way.

And over the years some pilgrims leave stones for any number of reasons.
The most important signs are the granite distance markers, often placed to guide you on the right path at an intersection.
Hydrangeas thrive in Galicia – I particularly liked this blue / white variety- Horreos as backdrop.
A shot of a well designed kitchen garden / la Huerta

Two hours or so further on we came by a campsite, which I remembered passing five years ago and it looked to be very popular – it was closed and only the cafe seemed to be functioning, with a couple of Camino trinket stalls in the reception car park.

The rain was increasing and so we dived into the cafe and ordered two hot boccadillos with bacon & cheese.
The bread was “ bap” like and made for a really delicious combination. They are no longer boccadillos but Bapadillos – Spanglais. I told one of the ladies serving that they were the best on the Camino for which I got a grateful Gracias and a lovely 😃.
We were not far from Mount Gozo now – Mount of Joy – today it was no joy as Santiago and the cathedral spires lay hidden below the misty rain.

After the descent from Mount Gozo we entered the outskirts of Santiago – I know from past experience that it’s still,a long walk until,you reach the historic centre of the city.

Some parkland as well,as the usual suburban sprawl.
San Lázaro’s church en route to the centre. In the Middle Ages this was the closest lepers could come to,the Cathedral.

San Lázaro is regarded as a humble saint of health and healing who soothes the sick, especially immigrants and people living in poverty. He is also known as the “god of crossroads” who guides people in making difficult decisions.

We eventually reached the historic centre of Santiago and its famous square the Pzaza da Obradoiro

What follows are a series of photos of the group celebrating the completion of their Caminos.
A balletic pose from Christina
Pure joy!
With Christina and Mike
Those boots look big - they have been great !
Mike – relieved and thankful as we all were.
The Silhillians made it too and delighted they were – they have been great first time Pelegrinos – we are all going to get together tomorrow for a group photo in the square – as we all arrived at different times this afternoon .

We received a tip off that some Americans had paid for the Botafumeiro to be swung at the 7.30 pm Pilgrim mass( €500 ) and so some of the group went to enjoy the spectacle.

The Botafumeiro weighs 53 kilograms and measures 1.5 metres. Using a complex system of pulleys, it is swung from the central cupola of the cathedral, from which it hangs, towards the side aisles

One of the most famous symbols of the cathedral is the Botafumeiro, which may be largest censer in the world. It is used at masses celebrated on key dates at the cathedral. It is also used every Friday (except for Good Friday) at the 7.30 p.m. mass, an homage to the pilgrim by the city of Santiago. It may also be used on other occasions upon request from pilgrim groups. The aroma of the incense has a powerful symbolic connection to prayer and spiritual purification: ‘May my prayer be set before you like incense’ (Psalm 141:2).
The Botafumeiro weighs 53 kilograms and measures 1.5 metres. Using a complex system of pulleys, it is swung from the central cupola of the cathedral, from which it hangs, towards the side aisles. It takes eight men, known as tiraboleiros, to move it. It is suspended from a height of 20 metres and can reach speeds up to 68 km/h.
The first written reference to this enormous censer appears in a 14th-century margin note to the Codex Calixtinus, where it is called Turibulum magnum. There have been several censers throughout history and in the early years, the ceremony did not proceed as seamlessly as it does today. For example, in 1610, the pilgrim Diego de Guzmán wrote in his diary of how the censer ‘hit the upper vaults’ as it swung. And on a few other occasions, the rope has even slipped out of the pulley.

Thanks to Christina,Val and Mike for some of the photos

OUR PENULTIMATE SAUNTER – DAY XIII TO A RUA FROM ARZUA – 19 KM

19 Jun
We left at 07.30 and made a short 300 metre stroll to Bar La Galicia for Desayuno .

It was shortly after 08.00 when we began the way proper. As usual, the group divided into a solo, 2 pairs and a foursome – each according to their wishes or needs. These mini groups would often meet up along the way,more usually at refreshment stops.

The stage between Arzúa and O Pedrouzo is of low difficulty, it goes along forest tracks, crossing woods and fields. A day though in which we must take extreme precautions, as we will have to cross the N-547 road several times, with heavy traffic. We will walk on flat and comfortable terrain, finding plenty of bars and places to rest, perfect to take the stage calmly. Santiago is getting closer and closer.

Eucalyptus
After 5 km we reached
Taberna Velha, and we walked past “ The Wall of Wisdom “
And many similar “ Bon mots”
After about 3 hours walking I stopped at Bar O Lino and caught up with Christina
Pineapple cake and Americano – €3.80 – perfecto.
Guess who’s flower of the day?
Richard gets a warm welcome.
The Guardia Civil on horseback – modern day KnightsTemplars – looking after Pelegrinos.
His poncho looks a bit tatty.
Shortly after leaving the bar it began to rain and this time we had all remembered our ponchos.
Don’t let the grass grow under your feet!

Steady rain for the rest of the saunter through woods and criss crossing the N 547 – a camera is fiddly work whilst wearing a poncho and the dreary weather, although it did not inspire much in the way of taking photos,did not detract from the enjoyment of the Camino; plus the growing realisation that 12 miles no longer meant so much of a challenge!

The rain began to ease as we neared our accommodation for today – Alojiamentos Rurales O Acrivo – after a quick check- in Mike and I made our way to our room.
An altogether welcoming place in delightful grounds and…it stopped raining.

( Thanks to Christina for some of the photos)

The forecast for our last day’s saunter tomorrow- Thursday – is looking brighter and drier for Santiago de Compostela.z

DAY XII – TO ARZÚA – AN UNDULATING 9 MILE SAUNTER – WEATHER BETTER TOO.

18 Jun
I love the China cups with lids that you have for a tea negra.

Marker post at the beginning of today’s stage.

A Lavadero with the stream running through to rinse the washing
A number of little Rios today

Some shelter from a shower.

A classy Horreos
A Fuente with classic twin church bell tower in the distance
Christina’s mystery rose donor again
Cloudy ahead but mild
An imposing gateway and a decorated Mojon
Valley View – However, the weather was not as bad as it looks and it was here that I was passed by two pilgrims pushing a paralysed man in a kind of portable stretcher- they were jogging and backed up by a team of four – you had to applaud. It reminded me of the film “ I’ll Push You “ that came out a few years back – a heartwarming account of pushing a friend all the way to Santiago. Probably available on YouTube .
Explanation of photo below
The bridge at Ribadiso – the original pilgrim hospital has been restored- a beautiful place.
Just off the main road to Arzúa
Welcome to Arzua
This is opposite our hotel – El Cima do Logo – on the Camino
A beer and tortilla whilst waiting to check in
Sunshine not storms on the patio off our room
Christina’s picnic lunch on the patio with Mike & myself “ Bon Provecho” y Muchas Gracias

DAY XI – FROM PALAS DE REI TO MELIDE – a relaxed eight miles 🤣

18 Jun
Mike and I had a good breakfast in the cafeteria of ALBERGUE Valin Lamas, on the outskirts of Palas de Rei.
About 15 km of those to walk today.
As I mentioned some time ago, I walked from Sarria to S de C 20,years ago this month – we stayed in this hotel – now up for sale, one of the few places I really remembered so far!
Eucalyptus trees are everywhere in Galicia
A timeless village scene, complete with an authentic Horreos – San Xulian do Camino
Statue of St James on the church wall.
I got a stamp in the village church – I have run out of pages in my pilgrim passport ( Credencial) – now using the cover.
You have to obtain 2 stamps a day in Galicia – I should have just about room.
Whose reflection is in the window of a house exiting the village?
More grey skies today but considerably warmer
Val and Ray – sister & brother on the Camino
St James holding my walking poles.
Characterful statues in an ornamental garden en route.

Excellent legend about this church – link below:

https://kpoethig.weebly.com/blog/leboreiro-igrexa-de-santa-maria-along-the-camino-frances

This little store served the same purpose as a horreos
Bag break on the Camino
Myra checking out the bar menu with Val desperate to get inside!
My daughter Hannah will be delighted to see this badge as it is the emblem of a Birmingham charity close to her heart.
The Ponte Velha – The bridge leading into Furelos, a village with Camino links dating back to the 12th century and the hospitaliers of San Juan.
The River Furelos
Horreos for sale – I would love it in my garden.
Not that keen on its replacement
Mural on entering Melide.
Caminos de Europe – on the wall of our lodging for tonight – Pension San Anton – Melide
No plug hole in this state of the art bathroom

Christina taking advantage of the facilities.

Tonight’s dinner menu
We enjoyed a different kind of menu tonight.

DAY X PORTOMARIN TO PALAS de REI 15.9 MILES – A LONG SAUNTER

17 Jun
This is a very enjoyable town to visit – a credit to its rebuilding.
Main Street PORTOMARIN

Building the new Portomarin,early 60s

Splendid display on the way down to the bridge
Lots of youngsters on their way
Fortunately they pressed on and we never saw them again – it is taking some time for us to adjust to the increased numbers since Sarria. Apart from Spanish groups there are large numbers of South Koreans and Japanese pilgrims too – all very cheery in their Camino gear!
Classic example of a Horreos
An eye catching colour combination
Good conditions underfoot – a dreary sky was a disappointment- we were expecting sunshine. A big mistake!
Very impressive cafe at Gonzar
The Saint
Much later on we caught up with Christina where she was presented with a second rose – a white one this time – a friendly Peregrino she claimed .
Rob looking at what were becoming very threatening clouds
Meanwhile, some Camigos were better prepared than others
After her rosy presentation we noticed that it was pouring down with rain – we were poncholess having believed the earlier forecast; Christina,ever the pragmatist
,asked the young lady behind the bar for a bin liner and fashioned herself a “ poncho”. Not to be outdone I followed suit – if that’s the right description! No matter, they did the job.
The designer herself, still,with rose in hand.
Onwards, onwards to Palas de Rei
Probably the brightest element in the whole town – let’s just say we won’t t be hurrying back any time soon.
We did have an excellent Menu del Dia though €13.50 a head
And the soup was back on the menu,plus a good choice of Postres – desserts – which our hard working waitress announced later.
The night was completed with a few of us watching the England V Croatia game in a nearby bar.

DAY IX – SARRIA TO PORTOMARIN-FROM SULLEN CLOUDS TO CHEERY SUNSHINE

16 Jun
On our way through Sarria, after a good breakfast
We crossed the river twice
A steep flight of steps upto the old town.
Old town mini square.
An important turning to the left here.
Over the “ rough bridge “
Good underfoot conditions
And bridges as Rob & Mike saunter on.
Extraordinary tree trunk
Two very sleepy old dogs
Fowl – White Turkeys?
A gentle beast
Huge slabs often used here
An “ Horreos” in the grounds of a fine house – status symbol- obviously not used to store maize – the steps are a give way – maybe the sun loungers?
This is a more authentic Horreos
Scenes typical of the tiny hamlets here
The scenery is less dramatic but very pleasing to the eye
Galician mojon
100 km to go
Still quite grey
Portomarin in the far distance
A glimpse of the Rio Mino
Don’t ask me ?
Crossing the bridge to Portomarin
The parish church was taken down, stone by stone and rebuilt above, when the dam was created and the village emptied of people who who were rehoused in the recreated village around the church – early sixties.
Steps leading up to the town from the bridge
The main thoroughfare leading up to the aforesaid church.
Our digs
Our Sleeping Beauty ….and when not dreaming of roses, Christina takes lots of photos and what follows are a selection which I am sure you will enjoy
Can’t beat a bus shelter
A gift from a passing stranger
On the way out of Sarria

“ I’ll Pick a Rose for my Rose” – Mark Johnson

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=FM7WXquTuPY&si=tiEgw4P-aPrAI8EO

Horreos
The day finished in glorious sunshine and we enjoyed a good meal at Meson Rodriguez,opposite the church

DAY VIII from TRICASTELA TO SARRIA – A MISTY MORNING

14 Jun

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=OBBlIfUH9bY&si=OYnat9-EW6GUHEG0 Bob Marley & the Wailers. – MISTY MORNING

We have passed the halfway stage of our Camino and walked through what is probably the most challenging stage of the Camino Frances – congratulations, especially those in our group walking the Camino for the first time.

And a very keen group of “ sello” collectors too!

THANKS TOMTHE GROUP FOR USE OF THEIR PHOTOS

A damp start to,the day with “ mizzle” in the air – that’s cricket commentary talk for a fine drizzle. It was also our coldest start.

Leaving TRICASTELA

Having turned right at the sign for San Xil the route climbed up along a country road and into the mist.

Evocative of the dank atmosphere
An unlikely but bright spot on this lonely track.
Utriea y Suseia,
A mysterious Fuente
A surprise find was this Donativo ( make a contribution ) run by some young, idealistic people – coffee,juices ,fruit, cakes – within the yard of an abandoned farm house by the looks of it.
Quite a spread
Very comfortable
Some New Age vibes
So now you know….
Mike and Christina sorting out a Sello for the pilgrim passports made from a dried fig – you get the idea ? A take on a woodcut in the shape of a heart – mine looked like a fingerprint!
Christina in her hippy element!
ALCHEMIST’S DEN
Stonebridge
Haunches to die for!
A very old “ Horreos” – traditional Galician grain store - more to come in the next few days.
Galician flora
Galician Stork
Christina gets the poncho off – Galician sunshine
Christina is a big fan of bus shelters – it was a welcome break before the last push into Sarria.
Richard and I

All,you need to know about Sarria below:

https://sarriaturismo.com/en/

Singing by the riverside
Our digs for tonight is quite a mouthful: EL RINCONCITO DE DP CRISTAL