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Last Steps to Santiago de Compostella – Friday 13 th September

13 Sep

Friday 13 th September ( continued )

Said I was not superstitious, then WordPress start messing up, so I hope this new post works.

Warnings about fires in the region.

Looking back at Vigo.

a little early for a Cerveja, high hopes for later, though.

Mussel Beds in the Ria.

Impressive Suspension Bridge.

Lining up the bags for entry to the Albergue, in Redondela.

This is the ritual for Albergues on the Caminhos; they open in the afternoon, so you put your kit down as you arrive. Then you are let in by the Hospitalero – lecture on rules and regs – then sign in with both your pilgrim passport and your ordinary ID.Pay your € 6.00 and in you go.
I am only staying in the Albergue because there is little alternative accommodation in Redondela, despite its size and it is a very pleasant, riverside place.
I got a bottom bunk (. 20 bunks in this Dorm which is mixed; hope it doesn’t t get full ).You have to be back by 10 pm and out the next morning, by 8 a m.bear in mind it does not get light this time of year until 7.30 a m.

very good shower facilities, etc.
Had best Bocadillo of the Walk so far, for lunch.

That is the albergue.
Redondela is famous for its 19 th Century Railway Arches.

Looking down at a very shallow river bed but huge fish in abundance.

Now being Friday, something that size with a few chips would make a great dinner.

Finally, St James again, despoiling the Moors.

Finally remembered to share a few of the Stand-Out tracks I have listened to en route, so far:-

“One More Cup of Coffee” Roger McGuinn with CALEXICO
“Just A Song Before I Go ” Crosby and Nash
“I Still Believe ” Danny & The Champions of the World”
” Shiver” Giant Sand ( Remix )
” The Sexual Loneliness of Jesus Christ ” Jackie Leven
“Chicken Wire” Joe Pernice
“Lowlands” Oysterband
” The Lower Road” Thea Gilmore ( featuring Joan Baez )
“Until the Led” Vic Chesnutt
“It Will Be a Good Day ( The River ) Yes

Hope it’s a good day tomorrow, too!

Saturday 14th September

I have mentioned the Pilgrim Passport, or Credencial,so here is a photo and also a snap of the pages with stamps collected from various places along the Caminho.You must have at least one stamp per day to obtain your special certificate of completion, in Santiago.

It is reassuring to start seeing the Galician way marks; they occur regularly with distances to go measured to three decimal points.

Final view of the Rias, as the Caminho moves inland.

First time I have seen anyone using the old, village community laundry!

The sun was right behind me.

About to cross a famous bridge in The history of Spanish Independence; when I was here 15 months ago, it was raining and a Portuguese girl, Gilda, took my photo – still hear from her on Facebook.

A view down the Estuary.

The scenery changes to Vines and far- off mountains – I hope they stay far off.This is a wonderful walk, with old lanes, ancient barns and occasional glimpses of people actually up and about.I had been walking for three hours since a cup of coffee at 7.30 am, and was grateful to come upon this bit of diversification into an impromptu Cafe, where I ordered a pot of tea and was given the chance to make my own Jamon Serrano Boccadillo.

Stopped at this tiny chapel, dedicated to St Marta, where I had this taken under a typically Galician Cruceiro.

Found my hotel easily and after a shower and ritual washing of the socks, top and shorts, had a semi, self-guided tour of Pontevedra, the Provincial capital and historically important stage in the Portuguese Caminho.

This is the Santuario de Pelegrina and its floor plan is the shape of a shell.

This Lemon Tree was providing some shade as I stopped for a cooling Tinto Verano in the Praza Teucro. There are a good number

of inviting squares in Pontevedra.

Saturday afternoon is very quiet, unlike England , most shops close all afternoon and it was quite deserted.
From 7 pm families begin to emerge, eating ice cream and doing the Paseo.Ciaou.

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Tags: Redondela, Superstitious, Two Caminho Portuguese routes join here

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Categories Play- List

Oporto to Santiago de Compostella – September 2013

3 Sep

Tuesday, 3rd September

Just to state that ALL of this Caminho will be contained in this Post ; just a case of scrolling down.
Or laziness on my part.
Emptied Rucksack to recheck packing.

Thursday , 5th September

Barbara kindly dropped me off at Digbeth Coach Station at 15 minutes after midnight.
Felt slightly disorientated and a little apprehensive, after 3 hours sleep.
Coach down to foggy Stansted Airport.
Smooth enough and flight was only 30 minutes late arriving at Porto.

Got 24 hour “Andante” Metro ticket and arrived at the Airport Hostal, nearby.

Having been on the go for the best part of 10 hours, rested up for a while.
Enjoyed two beef salad ciabattas for lunch in the garden ( thanks Barbara ).

Went in to Porto – Metro only 5 minutes away.
A couple of changes and I was soon climbing up to Sao Bento, the Cathedral.

Went in to the Cathedral and got my Pilgrim Stamp.
Walked down to the River and was tempted by this sight:-

As ever,in Porto,you will discover amazing views and interesting buildings:-

There was a Port Festival on the riverside, but I did not ” cave in” ….
Seems they bring the Portwine down somewhat differently, these days.

Climbed back up through old streets, still with their concrete washtub s adjacent to their front doors.

Reluctantly returned to the Hostal and went for dinner at local restaurant; tried a Francenghina,
think that’s how you spell it! A combination of ham, steak and sausage, enveloped in a huge omelette, with a piquant sauce….what a challenge.

Hopefully will walk it off, tomorrow.
Chatting to the two cousins who run the Hostal, they inherited the property from their grandmother.I gave them a packet of Sunflower seeds for the garden they are developing.
I was sent them from a monk who has a website selling small Caminho items.

Friday 6 th September

Enjoyable breakfast , then took the 08.11 Metro, changing once and alighting at Mercardo Matosinhos to cross the bridge on to the Ocean side route.Very foggy at this point.

Walked mainly along raised wooden walkways above the Dunes, which the civic authorities are doing their best to preserve. Detailed notices about the Biodiversity and historical sites were a welcome and informative feature.

The mists dissolved by midday.Met a couple of English girls making

their way for their first Caminho.They asked me to take their photo and then offered to take mine.

Eventually,walked into Vila do Conde and with the help of the Turismo, found a room opposite the Estuary.

Rested up and did the usual bits of washing, after a sandwich and a beer.
Walkabout – Interesting town, with long history of shipbuilding.

Meal on the square, watching , inevitably, Portugal vs N. Ireland.
Excellent Seafood Risotto, after a local sausage starter!

Tomorrow , on to Esposende.
Will try to post all photos to date on Facebook.

Earlier snap of Aqueduct.
Saturday,7th September

Left at 7.30 am.Quiet walk along the sea up and through Povoa de Varzim, which is a complete contrast to Vila do Conde, being high rise dominated, but the Marina , seafront and beaches were very well cared for.A local stopped to have a chat and wish me well opposite this church.

All the villages and towns are proud of their seafaring traditions of exploration, ship building, life-saving and particularly, fishing as depicted in part of this Mural.

As happens, the blue and yellow arrows disappeared and so it was with some relief that after 2 1/2 hours’ walk I came upon St Andre, Patron of fishermen ( a church and cafe ; not himself)

I was given a warm welcome by the owner who had cycled the Caminho, himself.He refused any payment for my pot of Earl Grey, toast and bottle of water.He did agree to a photo, though.

Walked on and the path,

well marked led a little way inland, alongside intense- method cultivation and Pine and Eucalyptus Forest.

. Just to show it’s not all sun, sand and siestas!

Walked into pleasant,estuary town of Fao – first, full road side sign and notices re.” The Caminho”

Getting on for 2pm,time for lunch and climbed the stairs to a Bar run by the volunteer Bombeiros ( firefighters ).lunch was€ 3.00, including a beer.

I went down to the fire traction below and was given my “stamp” for my “Pilgrim Passport” and a conducted tour; this included two proudly preserved engines, both of English origin:- a Ford and an Austin.

On into Esposende and then to Apulia for the night.

Sunday 8 th September

A choice to make, whether to amble along the coastal route, beside the dunes, or go for the locally recommended , if more challenging,slightly internal route. I chose the latter and although this was to be a physically demanding walk of 8 hours, it was probably the CAMINHO as understood by aficionados.

The way was well signed for the most part; I did have to retrace my steps a couple of times, but nothing too lengthy.

I was given a warm welcome at a tiny cafe, where A Belgian Portuguese guy wanted to,take me home for lunch with his family!

The signage improved although it would have been easy to miss the turning for this stone bridge. The route was authenticated by stopping at a church, dedicated to St.James, built on a 9 th Century site, resplendent with statues, etc;

I passed another church:-

St James in battle mode.
Then a village ,celebrating a Festa .

Eventually, Viano came into view:-

Found accommodation with help from a local Portuguese lady. A lift in her car.Dinner, eventually! Long, amazing day.

PS I didn’t eat all the chips!
Monday 9 th September

Met a German lady on the stairs,in the Hospedaria, she introduced herself as Anna and was by coincidence , going the same route as me. As the day went on, we bumped into each other twice!
Decided to take a little train ride, mainly because I was fascinated by the line coming into Viano , across the Eiffel Bridge; the railway runs below the road and don’t I just love railway stations and trains? It’s my ” inner geekiness”

Only a short ride for €1.40 and guess who I met on the train? But having a sore back, she was going further along the line.

The Coastal Caminho was invigorating ,views of people searching for provender in rock pools and the most clement weather for walking.

The walk switch backed, along boardwalks, over the dunes.

Ancient fortification.

Eventually, I reached Praia da Ancora; I was particularly looking forward to revisiting this little resort, where we took Thomas, at 15 months, on a camping holiday, 30+ years ago.
It was not a disappointment, estuary, esplanade and really helpful Lady in
the Turismo, where there was a display about the history of the single track line that runs from Porto to Vigo.Superb.

Pressing on, but still taking time to smell the flowers.

Passiaflora, I think.
Having reached Caminha and promising myself a light lunch in the atmospheric Praca ( I was there last year) , who should be giving me a wave but Anna! She was soon off to catch the Ferry across the Minho, to Spain.

I walked another 5 km to my Residencial San Pedro and enjoyed some recuperation by the pool.

Later, walked in to the village of Seixas,bordering the Minho, was struck by the unusual Parish Church.

Took a stroll alongside the river and captured the sun setting over Spain, tomorrow’s destination.

Tuesday 10 th September

Brisk walk of 5 km , 30 mins, to the Ferryboat

Followed the yellow arrows up a steep hill and walked through a mixture of overgrown paths( indicates how few Pilgrims come this way ) along the sea and then into A Guarda.

Climbed up into the Praca and received really helpful map and advice.Fortunately, there was a cafe, where I lingered over coffee and Agua con Gaz; you know you are in Spain, even the glasses are classy!

Now to walk to Oia.

Helpfully markers.

Sometimes I had to climb up above the rocky shore, but always in a Northerly direction. Some walking along a main, but not very busy road, strong wind at times kept me cool. Got to Hotel, beautiful location and tiny cove.Dominated by a long abandoned 12 th Century,Cistercian Monastery.

After a brief stroll, the temperature was till in the 80s at 9pm! Enjoyed the best Gin & Tonic I have had this year!

<img src=”https://ensuitepilgrim.blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/20130910-225417.jpg” alt=”20130910-225417.jpg” class=”alignnone size-full”Sunset over the Atlantic,then back to the hotl for a “Menu Del Dia”,€ 10.00 which included home-made tortilla and salad, escalope with fresh veg.cheese with Membrillo ( quince) and the blackest most natural honey I have ever seen or tasted.Plus wine. Sweet dreams!

Wednesday 11 th September

Had breakfast with two Swiss Pelegrinos, sisters-in-law.We walked part of the Way together.
Their names were Rosemary, ex-principal of a private, foreign languages college,the other was called…….wait for it, Heidi! She was walking well at 68 years; both good company,too.

Fabulous views and warm ,sunny weather.

Just before this Ancient burial ground, high up on a hill, I found a piece of paper, pinned to,the ground by four stones, with
“John” clearly written on it! I realised it was a message from Anna, whom I met the other day.
I had asked her to E-mail me the website where he had downloaded such great maps; she had found the website and signed off her note ” from Anna, the lady with the maps “. !

This is a typical part of the Way, through Eucalyptus and Pinewoods,in the hills above the Atlantic.

At the end of the path, as I descended into a village, a horse gazed at me and then turned on his heels.

That was view of Baiona, seaside resort in a Ria of its own, famous for the location of its Parador.

Cerulean waters, as seen from the ramparts.

The Esplanade is pleasant enough, over-priced fish restaurants and bars.There is an ancient alleyway running parallel and behind the seafront, where there is more in the way of character.

Baiona’s history is linked to the discovery of America in the Fifteenth Century,The vanguard of Columbus’s fleet landed here in 1493.

In the Misericordia Chapel, I took a picture of St James vanquishing and trampling the Moors underfoot.

Being in a “Resort” ,it is always worth a little researching for not so much cheap, but authentic cooking.
Which brought me to ” o refuxio de Anton”; atmospheric, service friendly and brilliant.

Thursday 12 th September

Route out of Baiona was very good at first, then the Fleches disappeared and I was suddenly up a track confronted by three barking dogs. So I retraced and in a tiny Hamlet asked an elderly gentleman for some directions; bless him, he drove me 5 km towards where I should have been, on Playa Americana; the blessings on the way continue…

No, not that elderly gentleman! Walked along Playa Americana, where we camped on the beach, about40 years ago.
Refreshed after an Americano coffee and Agua con Gaz, continued towards Vigo.

View of Vigo, from afar.

Typical “Horreo” to keep the rats away from the corn.

Backroads,Calvary.

It seemed to take forever to get into the City.

Found the Hostal reasonably easy; only had to ask four locals!

This a view from by third floor turret.

Family fun in the Plaza de la Republica. Friday 13th September

I am not superstitious, good job, given the date, but although I spent a lot of time last evening trying to realise the route out of Vigo, it was not to be. I had a good Desayuno on the Portfront and having filched a town-plan from the Tourist Office, which wasn’t open ( they never are when you need them),given to me by the cleaner,I decided to find the road out and see if I could pick out some yellow arrows along the way.I did not! Au Revoir Vigo.

Tags: Caminho, coach, packing, plane, Santiago de Compostella, Start

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Categories Caminho

Caminho Portuguese – Coastal Route)

11 Aug

11th August 2013

Planned arrival by Ryanair, Stansted to Oporto, Thursday, 6th August.
Returning on Wednesday 18 th September
Last two weeks – most of 13 nights’ accommodation booked – Hannah produced it all on Excel spreadsheet.
Also purchased a new camera – entry level Fuji 4500 S – majority of favourable, independent reviews. Just getting to terms with it.
On recent walks, have used the I-Pad, whose photo quality is good and has the added advantage of being to upload photos to the Blog simply. However,this convenience is countered during the actual walk, having to stop, unload I-Pad, shoot, then replace the I-Pad in map carrying case I have attached to my rucksack , chest strap.
Over a day, this does become tiresome.I hope that using the camera will save the fiddling about!
It will mean carrying an additional lead to upload to,the I-Pad in the evening, but I plan to arrive in plenty of time to allow for that.

Meanwhile, have to balance the demands of my allotment and the England V Australia Test Matches, with the need to start training – walks, carrying a full rucksack.
Not filled with my kit, but an old laptop and a blanket, which amounts to a fraction more than I intend to carry.

14 th August

Bit the bullet and commenced training walks, this morning.
Filled rucksack to 11+ KG ( heavier than I intend to take ),
Plus new camera around neck.
Soon realised camera straps would need shortening.

Walked 7 1/2 Miles approx. with a stop at the Sutton Park Bistro for coffee,
after 90 minutes.Park was very quiet and the sunny weather made for a
very pleasant return to walking.

15 th August

One hour in the gym from 9AM; steam room and Spa.
Don’t think I would go to the gym without the ” afters”!

PM – two hours planting Brassicas at plot, still managing to
fill up buckets of weeds; you only notice them when your nose is at ground level.
Then netted them , to keep pigeons at bay

16th August

Rainy morning so time taken to purchase Apple I-Pad camera connection kit.
It works really well and at £ 26.00 it b……y well ought to!
Looking at DSLR Camera courses for the Autumn,plenty online,
but I think I would need a tutor hands on.Not after a certificate, just a couple
of days introductory sessions.
PM, great improvement in the weather,so taking advantage of newly acquired
National Trust membership, took off for Whightwick Manor, near Wolverhampton.

Visited the Manor, mainly a 19th Century edifice built by Liberal Manders family.
Links to William Morris – beautiful wallpaper, fabric designs.
Kempe Stained glass.
An Arts and Craft House!
Pre-Raphaelite paintings.
The Victorian gardens are fascinating – well they would be to me!

Then a 5 mile walk across fields and along the Shropshire Canal.
Terminating at the Mermaid Inn – quirky name for a pub 5 miles down the road from
Molineux and over a 100 from the sea!
Lovely pint of Aspalls cider, though.

17 th August

To Garden Organic,Ryton-On-Dunsmore, of which I am a member, for their Chilli and Exotic Food
Day. Tour of the grounds, always lots to interest, whenever and whatever season I visit.

Had to buy a Chilli Plant,of course:-

Then some of their special Heritage Seeds for next year.

No real intention to “Walk” today. 20 – 20 Finals on TV, too much of a distraction, then out to
friend’s 66th Birthday Party – Will have to atone for that, tomorrow I am sure!

18 th August
7 mile walk, with full pack, using the “Walk,Jog,Run” App.
Shoulders and neck felt the strain until the last 2 miles, when I readjusted the straps after
a short break in the Newhall Valley.

After a sandwich and a shower, at home,off to Kings Heath Park Open Afternoon in the area that was used for “Gardeners’ Weekend”,council cuts are bringing that to a close,sadly.The improved weather added to the pleasure of enjoying this horticultural oasis,in the midst of one of Birmingham’s oldest parks. Then tea in the Victorian former home of the Russell family, whose name is replicated locally in streets and road signs.

After what amounted to at least another two miles walkabout, popped in to see grandson Jude.

20th August

7 miles using the “Walk,Jog!Run” App. which took me to Minworth, joining the canal at the
Boat Inn, on to the Tyburn House, up the Chester Road homewards – the last 2 miles are upwards.

I really felt it! Not helped by forgetting a water bottle and not stopping!
Must walk again tomorrow to get a Back to Back – excuse the pun – experience.
It is the shoulder areas that I need to concentrate on – legs not a problem.

21 st August

6 & 3/4 miles around Sutton Park,today,including two good hills.
Back in time for the opening over of the Fifth Test Match.
Later, the usual fretful palaver whist downloading Boarding Pass from Ryanair for
flight to Porto on 5 th Sepember.

24th August

Family get together for a couple of days, so only a 4 mile pushchair walk with grandson,Tom Henry,yesterday.
This morning 7 miles in Sutton Park. Have shortened main straps on pack which improved the positioning, making it more aligned with my back.
Going to Villa Park to see Aston Villa versus Liverpool, courtesy of a season ticket loan from a friend.Mainly looking forward to,seeing Steven Gerrard, such a ” Natural” athlete and fine footballer.How Liverpool manage to defend against Benteke should be critical.

Monday 26 th August

The “Bank “Holiday and for once weather to match!
Maybe we should give some thought to renaming these Public Mondays, as they reflect undeserved credit on the banks- no pun intended.
Training resumed , with a 7 mile hike around Sutton Park, pausing just after midway for coffee at the Blackroot Pool Bistro – what a gold mine that is! Good coffee and service.

Will try to get four more walks in before departure, next week.

Tuesday 27 th August

One hour in the Gym, followed by steam room and a languish in the Spa Pool.Reward!

PM, a couple of hours weeding, hoeing and finally picking some beans and leaves.Cycled there and back, too.Like to think it all contributes to my fitness level.

Wednesday 28 th August

PM 6 1/2 miles in Sutton Park; very enjoyable.
Listened to Bob Dylan at a time when he was trying to escape his “Saviour of a generation”role,
on the newly released ( yesterday ) , Volume X of Bob Dylan Bootleg Series:-
” Another Self Portrait ” , 2 discs set that I had pre-ordered at Amazon.The bonus now is that
you get all the tracks “free” , as MP 3s through I-Cloud, as well!
So I-Pod and away.Very Catholic range of tracks, live from the Isle of Wight right through to
previously unreleased out- takes of classics, like “New Morning”. Loved it…

Then emptied rucksack of the overload I have been training with and packed all my gear, with the exception of a two pairs of Trekmate socks for which I am awaiting an imminent delivery…sounds like giving birth!
What a difference 3 KGs lighter makes – any further walks will be at this weight – 10 KGs.

Friday 30 th August

Having had a two way split of a day yesterday :- buying and setting up new I-Phone and then
a slog at the allotment – time to get back to walking.

The difference in a 3 KG lighter load pack was most noticeable and I managed 7 miles around the local suburbs , this time. Then down to Sutton Coldfield to “E E” to change our WI – FI and phone line to them.Two main reasons, using Orange and E E tok them over along with T-Mobile,recently and the promised,much improved WI-FI service.Probably take a few days to be rearranged.

Sunday 1st September

“Now it is the autumn and the falling fruit and the long, long journey towards oblivion”
I hope that is a verisimilitude of Gerard Manley Hopkins ‘ verses.
Doubtless, someone better read than I will disabuse me….
So, today, to Coughton Court, Southern Warwickshire – a journey along the A 435 to
various cricket fixtures in the 70 s – but I wasn’t a member of the National Trust then!
The Throckmorton Family, Catholic and quite insurrectionist for their time,including links to the
Gunpowder Plot. Quite understated in terms of possessions, but still landed gentry.
Really enjoyed the House, yet overall I feel I am capitulating to a middle – class envy of our betters.

Then an underestimated circular 8 mile walk – details on the”Walkingworld” website.
Great site for all kinds of walks; very reasonable annual,sub.

So we felt we deserved our couple of beers at the Virdoo Lounge and a curry at “”Lime” later, even got the bus back at once -quicker than a taxi!

PS Just to clarify any confusion, internationally, this is Coughton Court, not the Curry house!

Monday 2 nd September

Downloaded the Boarding Pass off Ryanair for the return flight from Santiago de Compostella.
You always feel a sense of victory, getting over their ludicrous, scavenging hurdles!
Then to Shrewsbury by train to have lunch with my sister,Penny and brother-in- law Don, on a sunny terrace overlooking the the River Severn, at the Gateway Centre.
This is the final entry for this post, I think.
Will begin a new post for the Caminho, in a couple of days time.

Tags: camera versus I-Pad, distractions, John twort, preparation for a walk, Solo

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Categories difference between solo & group walks, Uncategorized

Oporto

22 Jun

Over 30 years since We last walked around Oporto; Thomas, (oldest son) in a buggy.
Loveable urchins tweaking his cheeks and giving him kiss on the cheek,as we descended from the Cathedral.
A tour of Sandeman’s Port House, where we bought some coasters that we used for dinner parties, for years! So posh; so pretentious.http://ayay.co.uk/backgrounds/vintage_labels/liquor/sandeman-port-and-sherry.jpg
Where to begin? Or end? Everywhere you look is a melange of washing lines and historic buildings.

View from Porto’s tallest building, the Irmandade Dos Clerigos.

Sunday 23 rd June

Feast of San Jon – Patron of Porto – their biggest feast day of the year.City in preparation and lots of locals and travellers enjoying a hot day and jovial atmosphere.BBQs of all shapes and sizes on every corner and all along the wharfs of the Douro

Walked up to the Cathedral, where the Caminho proper begins

You don’t find this kind of housing around the Vatican or St.Paul’s Cathedral

View across to the Douro.
A lot of views wherever you stop in this fascinating city

The waterfront. River views:-

Take a tram alongside the quays.
Henry the Navigator dominates the scene in front of the old market hall

Tiles ; Portugal’s finest….

“I give you good price”.

Porto has 6 fine bridges.

I enjoyed lunch here.

take the Funicular and the stroll across the Luis 1st Bridge

Porto’s Metro system runs alongside the pedestrian walkways.

Lots more to come.

Special offer on the Cable Car down to Villa Da Gaeia.5€ return, including a port tasting – not in the cable car but in one of the many Port warehouses.

Unspoilt back streets and a shop that I know would appeal to someone I know!

Time for a Vinho Verde and a label that brought back memories of previous holidays and a Caminho, last year

Return journey.

These were the boats that used to bring the Port Wine down the River.

” Espaco Corpus Christi,” where I got my “pilgrim Passport” stamped and an altar dedicated to St James

( these photos are samples of the day in Oporto – will post all the snaps on Facebook )

Will conclude this Blog with photos of a reunion with some Portuguese friends who we met on our Caminho, last year – they made the trip to the hotel to share a drink and memories – OBRIGADO !

Valter designed this T-shirt as a momento of last year’s Caminho, with the names of all of us who met along the way.

He also gave me one of the mallets,you can see, that everyone buys on this Feast Day.I shall give it to my grandson,Tom Henry.

Isabella came,too and we all recollected some of our great memories of last year ‘s walk.
Finally a group shot .

And what did I learn from this year’s walk? Well, there is no designated coastal path from Lisbon to Oporto. There are various reasons, but the principal factor would be the lack of infrastructure,I.e
No Albergues and no way marking .There is not a tradition to even revive. That said,it is still a challenging journey with breathtaking landscapes and a variety of terrain. Looking at the Atlantic.

or,inland.

The food and wine.

But most impressively the hospitality and helpfulness of the Portuguese people.

Remember
Few people know how to take a walk. The qualifications are endurance, plain clothes, old shoes, an eye for nature, good humor, vast curiosity, good speech, good silence and nothing too much….Ralph Waldo Emerson.

I hope you enjoyed the Blog and that it might encourage you take a walk along one of the ways,
if not this one.

ZenPeregrino wrote:In the words of Sufi Muslim poet Rumi:
“Out beyond ideas of wrongdoing and rightdoing,
there is a field.
I’ll meet you there.
When the soul lies down in that grass,
the world is too full to talk about.
Ideas, language, even the phrase each other
doesn’t make any sense.”
Buen Camino.

Tags: 30 years since last here, character, Irmandade Dos Clerigos, Metro

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Categories 2 day respite, Caminho

Journey to Oporto,Part II. Obidos onwards

16 Jun

Saturday 15 th June

Started a new “Post”.
Problems with password and loading photos.

Left Obidos in taxi towards the sea.
Walked from there to Nazare.
Along a boardwalk, over the dunes, through the town, until we picked up a GR route,
along with GPS.
Amazing ocean views and a path through small hamlets down to a beautiful, deserted beach.
We struggled along the sand until, thankfully we found a Beach bar, open, after 2 and 1/2 hrs,
“Noite Atlantique”seafood specialities, etc; another helpful owner directed us to a path between
the dunes and farmland, towards Nazare, that would take us to the bridge we should need to cross
before the last stretch into the resort.
Nazare, famous for its fishing boats ( not apparent sadly ),does not commend itself to the experienced traveller.Wizened ladies in “traditional” dress, perched on chairs,offering rooms.
And then, being a Saturday, full of coach trippers. More Blackpool than Brighton!

Found a hotel, thankfully, after turning down a 6 bed cellar in a “Residencial”!

I took a trip up the cliff to the old town, on the Funicular- breathtaking views from precipices –
far more stately than the upstart resort, below.

The coaches departed but the resort was still by far, the liveliest place we have experienced.
And I began to develop a liking for its seasidy cheerfulness, with everyone preparing for the
Festival, which was to take place the following day – St Anthony – very big in Portugal.

The Funicular up to what was the original town.

The Square and beautiful church.
Sunday 16 th June

Took the Funicular to begin the walk to Sao Pedro de Muel

the entire walk was through Pine forest along a cycle lane , thoughtfully laid down by the local authorities.
There was a coffee stop at a small resort, where a number of the group debated the state of Portugal’s economy with a very cheerful proprietress.

we reached SAN PEDRO DE MUEL
in good time

View from Hotel Miramar 2*.Brilliant price,people and food; shame about the weather, which was turning to rain

Change of plan, because of weather we have heroically sacrificed a long walk in similar terrain to today’s trek, for a bus ride, we hope,
from nearby Leiria to Aveiro,Portugal ‘ s “Little Venice”.
Our delightful hosts have offered us a lift to the bus station, saving a10 km traipse in the rain.
As they say, travelling is not all about sight seeing, but the experiences along the way!

Last photo was a delicious experience:- Ginja liqueur, served in what look like chocolate potties

Woke to a bright sunlit seascape.
Late ish breakfast and to confound yesterday evening’s decision,a new arrangement had been planned.Still accepting lift to Leiria,then bus to Figuera da Foz ; well let us hope that is the case.

Journey to Fig de Foz in Rede Express coach.

m Passing rice fields and salt pans in the River Mondego – Portugal ‘s largest – and a beautiful , new bridge .

Both of these photos were taken through th coach window, as it approached Fig. De Foz. This town can offer a harbour, seafront and fish restaurants, plus wide beach , as attractions;its interior has as much charm as a North London suburb.I almost forgot, it has a church…

This last photo is for my daughter,Hannah, who for sometime had been extolling the deliciousness of Tuna and cheese , as a lunchtime medley. I was never persuaded until losing my taste buds, so Hannah, here it is:- toasted with a Super Bock on the side!

In the evening we had dinner at “Cacarola1” Restaurant, “Lonely Planet” recommendation.
Oversized Squid and Prawn kebabs, a foot long.
Also spotted first reference to Santiago, in the form of a sword, plus Scallop shell, hung on the wall, in the dining room amongst a plethora of plates and other exhibits.

Tuesday 18 th June

I thought weather forecasts for the Midlands ( U K ) were unreliable until Portugal.Heavy rain over night, but awoke to clearing skies; the remainder of the day was bright and breezy,whereas we had been led to expect showers.

Waiting for the bus to Tocha, to avoid headwind around Fig. De Foz

Walked for miles along forest trail – pines,acacias – surprising lack of wildlife, especially birds. Next day we set off towards Aveiro – we have met with unfailing kindness and good humour, especially in the cafes – typical route by the Ria-
href=”https://ensuitepilgrim.blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/20130619-212400.jpg”>

The Portguese Navy coming upstream to greet us!

Beautiful view across the Ria as we
approached Aveiro.Traditional fishing boat.

. Crossing from Praia de Barron to
Sao Jacinto by ferry; this nearly proved to be disastrous in terms of finding accommodation when we landed, as the group decided against finding a hotel, that side of the Ria, hence missing out on both Aveiro and a choice of Residencias. But as can often happen to Pilgrims – even Ensuitepilgrims – the local people came to our rescue.

Theresa , owner of the Esplanade Bar, and her friends, tried to help us find a place.
I had already told everyone it was ltd, this side of the water. In two cars, refusing any payment,
they took us up and down the Ria, trying an Orbitur campsite, which one or two thought was below them, and then a 4* Aparthotel, which charged ridiculous prices and had no restaurant !
Some were prepared to be ripped off till that point.Then our gracious hosts were good enough to take us back to Orbitur Campsite, where Diogo, the manager was still happy enough to give us a bungalow at a good price. Stiff upper lip, much debate ( not by me) about who , where would sleep! Lack of reality here!

I could pontificate a lot longer here about group dynamics; instead, our friends drove back 5 km to pick us up and take us to a traditional , fish restaurant. Then, adjourned to Therasa’s for Digestifs…
Such generosity; I hope in insight some of us remember how well we were cared for.

.
Best Sardines, I have ever had!

Lovely glass of Porto Branco!
Thursday 20 th June
Walked out of campsite, to a wonderful view in glorious sunshine.

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Walked alongside the Ria – occasional, small beaches – traditional fishing boats

CONTRASTS:-
EU funded bridge across to Aveiro, a few metres on and wild flowers

Alongside the road, were villas, cottages,fields ; some ostentatious,eg, 2 field artillery guns! Then a flowering tree.

Walking into Ovar, this little chapel,
inconguously saved between pristine villas. A relatively wealthy area,Toyota has a plant here.
The town has seven chapels, linked in a walkabout; our charming receptionist at the hotel, told us the town does not get the notice it deserves, because of poor, local political representation.

View of the pool from our room at The Hotel Meia Lua * 3 Star; just the ticket for EnsuitePilgrims…no camping around here!Bus to the coast, 5 km. Walk along a forest road, with a cycle / pedestrian path; investment for fitness!
Thought we should have a fora and flora interval, here. Take time to smell the flowers, but avoid the reptiles…

As we say in Small Heath:-
“Alright our kid?”

Beware the snake on the path

Roundabout above our destination.

Dinner is served,

Keeping in touch with home, a photo of my beautiful grandson,e- mailed from Hannah, my equally beautiful daughter & proud auntie:-

If you look closely, you will see a tiny, green bird; a live one,preached on this beautiful , young lady’s. shoulder until she stopped for the photo.

15km boardwalk over the dunes.

Mac having the first of his 2 – a day!
He said it was really good, but not as good as Hannah’s….

Walking towards Porto,
at Miramar we took the train,mainly because one of our party was suffering badly from blisters.

View from the train window.Porto is such an exciting city to approach.

Wonderfully tiled entrance hall to the station.

Bed rest at the”Star Inn” *** hotel, 4.5 km from the airport; chosen because of paranoia of some members wanting to be near the airport! Tried hard to get one under the flightpath – all booked.
Some rested in hotel. I walked the mile Back to the Metro,for a couple of hours in Porto.
Time to start another post,I think.

Tags: ask a local, Beside the sea, fresh fish, walking in the sand- dunes

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Categories Caminho

Caminho begins,from Lisbon to Oporto

10 Jun

Monday, 10 th June

National Express from Bham to Luton Airport, 7.30 a m – on time.
Fellow Caminhoists boarded at the NEC.
I was the only one frisked at Security.
We were stopped by a passenger satisfaction surveyor, who questioned Colin.
You would not be surprised to know that it ended up with Mac interviewing the surveyor!

Pleasant and uneventful flight. Though temperatures in Lisbon only17 degrees.

Bus & train to Sintra – further out than you might think ; warmer now.

Tiny Hostal opposite Railway Station, where we stayed.€ 65,a little over the top considering
it did not include breakfast and no Air- Con; well we are ” Ensuite pilgrims!”
Walking around, I think there are probably a few more options offering better value.

Lovely restaurant for dinner.€ 13 Euros, two courses, cheese, coffee and port,inc.Tip!
The cheese came from the Azores!

Tomorrow we have to decide whether to,take a little taxi ride – 5 km to get us out in to the countryside, coastal direction.

Tuesday 11 th June

Began walk , after taxi ride to the coast.
Walk began @ 09.15, finished at 5.30pm
A mixture of cliff top paths, agricultural bye ways, GR routes, guesswork,GPS,
local roads, bamboo groves, scrambling and near the end, fording a river on a beach.
Eventually reaching Residencial Fortunat,in Ericeria.
Dinner in Fish restaurant – modest value

Hardest, first day’s walk I have ever attempted – you need map- reading skills, guesswork,
fortitude and occasional reliance on really friendly , locals. 25 km – felt like more!

Some photos from today:-

agricultural paths

Wednesday 12 th June

Excellent breakfast.Tea, fruit juice,sticky bun,home found honey,spreads,delicious brown bread.

Set off through the town along pedestrianised street, recently developed esplanade, up and out, passing camp site, along the main road which was to be our choice of route, for the first half of
the day’s walk. Not too busy,very few heavy goods vehicles.good views and sunshine, moderated by a breeze off the ocean.
Long hike till coffee break – 7 1/2 miles.very welcome when we arrived, near Barril.Such, friendly and unaffected people.Always willing to assist and to laugh.

Following a GPS that one of the group, Colin I I ( we have 2 Colin’s!) was using ,we saved 2 KM and walked on back roads for the rest of our route to Santa Cruz. Great views
<img src=”https://ensuitepilgrim.blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/20130612-190657.jpg” alt=”20130612-190657.jpg” class=”alignnone size-full”

Stayed in Santa Cruz * 3 star hotel – good meal overlooking the beach and sunset.
Shorter day planned for tomorrow – 13 miles, to enable visit to Obidos.

Photos of today:-
<img src=”https://ensuitepilgrim.blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/20130612-223939.jpg” alt=”20130

Thursday 13 th June

Set off under blue skies, strong breeze,walked alongside a deserted beach.

There was a mixture of road and farm tracks; way marking not brilliant !
Neither were the number of hills, In what amounted to a tough walk.

For a time,after lunch in a little cafe, the skies darkened and we were faced with the necessity
of a beach walk to avoid a steep climb. This was the stretch we trudged across.

We still faced another steep ascent and eventually walked along a country road, on a ridge.
Small cottages and villas, intermingled with smallholdings.The sea to our left; open countryside to our right.
We reached Praia da Areia Branca.Booked in at the ” Dom Lourenco” Hotel.
Given our own room, each! Mac will miss his bedtime stories!
Photo across from the Bar-Patio, enjoying a glass of Vinho Verde.
Tomorrow ,we make for Peniche, leaving Lisbon Province in the process, and entering Leiria.
One of the many differences between the Portuguese and the Spanish people is that the
latter can converse convivially without sounding like everyone is on a soapbox!
I am
surrounded here on this patio and yet it is a pleasant buzz.
Looking out across the river valley – warm evening,warm breeze free sunshine – Solo bliss!

Dinner In hotel restaurant – popular with locals – good sign.Excellent, grilled Dorado.
Early night ; a mile on soft sand, into a headwind , did not suit my back! Else wise,all good.

Friday 14 th June

After breakfast, we began our walk to Peniche.
This was a pleasant march – coupe of stiff hills – then undulating, with many views of the sea.
As in the last few days, we found ourselves following a GR route.
Wish we had thought of obtaining the maps, but not aware they exist (ed).
( HAVING PROBLEMS AT THE MOMENT! PHOTOS WILL NOT LOAD!))

Will continue with Narrative, for now.

Left Peniche,wished could have spent more time there, by local bus to Obidos,
which is a major tourist site .An old,fortified town.Check it out on Wikpedia.
Hotel in the of town.Very enjoyable.Took many photos.
Plenty of “tat” shops,but not too detrimental.

View from Hotel room

Hopefully, photo scenario sorted !

Still in Obidos

TheAqueduct

Tags: Cabo da Roca, paths along Atlantic Coast, Sintra, walk- apps

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Categories Uncategorized

Preparations in earnest – Post holiday,Post hospital appointments!

18 May

Friday 17 th May

Yesterday, MRI on my back at the Orthopaedic hospital,on time.

Today began really well with the delivery of a package of maps and notes
from Jo**, a fellow contributor to
http://www.caminodesantiago.me/
she cycled this way and
who kindly loaned to me,unconditionally,
four INSTITUTO GEOGRAFICO E CADASTRAL de PORTUGAL
Civilian maps,covering the areas through which we expect to walk
during our unmarked walk from Lisbon to Oporto,beginning the
10th June. ** ( Does that make Jo a “Bicigrina?” A Pilgrim on a Bike? )
http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=instituto+geografico+e+cadastral+portugal&safe=off&hl=en&biw=768&bih=928&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=5ZeXUfPOL6-z0QW51ICQCA&sqi=2&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ#biv=i%7C3%3Bd%7CLOzTP2Q3LRG39M%3A

In addition, there was included a Turinta Coast of Lisbon Map.

Thank you Jo – the spirit of the Caminho:-
” There is no moment of delight in any pilgrimage like the beginning of it”.
Charles Dudley Warner.

However, the afternoon appointment at Good Hope hospital,proved to be the beginning
of a trial,booked for two Cortisone injections to my impacted right shoulder at 1 pm,I was
eventually dealt with at 4.45 pm
I wish I had taken the maps with me; I might have mastered a great deal more information
than I gained from The Guardian crossword!

Saturday 18 th May

No reactions from injection,have to keep plaster on for two days.
Advice? Not much – keep it moving – common sense would say a couple of days,
before carrying a rucksack any distance.
So, some work at the allotment and then plan the next three weeks’ preparations…

Sunday 19 th May

AMAZON – was nearly caught out by their postage scam, this morning.
Ordered some Gel toecap protectors ( really effective last year ) and the
Postage amounted to 60% of the Total.
Their default P / P was “one day”, so I ticked the 3-5 day option and got Free postage.

I have the same ambivalent opinion of Amazon as I have of SKY SPORTS; for me, a
necessary evil! Can’ t live without the Live Sports, especially in retirement ,when I have
that extra time. And being a test match fanatic….

No weight bearing ,walking today – just work at the allotment – tomorrow,it begins again.

Monday 20 th May

Except it didn’t!

Allotment for 2 1/2 hours – weeding, digging, planting.
Must buy some weed killer for paths.

Pm visit from old friend. Evening, a drink with another old friend for an hour or so…
What happened to my resolution?
Must do better tomorrow.

Tuesday 21 st May

Thomas, eldest son’s birthday – 34! Happy birthday Tom (soon to be a dad)
Another coming of age….

On with the rucksack, to Sutton Park on a grey,dampish morning.

Clocked up 7 1/2 miles.No apparent after- effects.

Mac, fellow Caminhoist, called round for coffee to look at our maps – loan and we traced the route,
as laid down by Jo, our kindly benefactor. PS That’s Mac, not Jo.

Wednesday 22 nd May

Wrong about no after-effects; felt lethargic all morning,managed to mow the lawn,PM.

A happy birthday to my daughter- in- law,Vickee,baby due this Saturday! Great Expectations…

Decided to compile Play-list for the Caminho,instead, from a cast of thousands:-

“High On The Skyline”. THE NEW MENDICANTS ( this is not a monastic order! )
” Soul Shoes”. GRAHAM PARKER
“You Better Move On”. ARTHUR ALEXANDER
“One More Cup of Coffee”. CALEXICO & ROGERMcGOUGH
“True Love & High Adventure” GRAND DRIVE
“There Goes the Sun”. PERNICE BROTHERS
“The Lower Road. THEA GILMORE featuring JOAN BAEZ
“It Will Be a Good Day” YES
“Ends of the Earth” LORD HURON
“Everyman Needs a Companion” Fr JOHN MISTY
“Sangre de Cristo”. SCUD MOUNTAIN BOYS
“Wild Places”. COLIN BLUNSTONE
“Travelling Alone”. TIFT MERRITT
“Walk Like a Giant”. NEIL YOUNG
“Mr Blue Sky”. TONY DISCONTI ( Jeff Lynne Tribute)
“Jesus is a Hobo”. CHARLIE PARR
“Down Among the Cove “. DUANE ALLMAN
“June Hymn” THE DECEMBRISTS
“Hot Dusty Roads”. BUFFALO SPRINGFIELD
“Beautiful View”. RON SEXSMITH
“Ramblin’ On My Mind”. ROBERT JOHNSON
“The Sea “. SANDY DENNY
“Crossroads”. RYAN COODER
“Pinches of Salt” ROY HARPER
“Beyond the Shore”. WILLARD GRANT CONSPIRACY
“Into the Great Wide Open”. TOM PETTY
“Waterfalls”. PAUL McCARTNEY
“Ease Down the Road”. BONNIE PRINCE BILLY
“Miles from Nowhere”. CAT STEVENS
“On a Day Like This”. ELBOW
“Restless Feet”. DANNY &THE CHAMPIONS OF THE WORLD
“Wide River to Cross”. LEVON HELM
“As I Roved Out”. JANE SIBERRY
“Going Home”. LEONARD COHEN

Eventually, went to gym – A moderate workout and a soothing soak in the spa.
Always problems,when I am without my prescription ,Cocodamol. Nothing else seems to work.
Is this a dependency?
Anyway, collect new prescription,tomorrow . ( my fault for not renewing in time ).

Thursday 23 rd May

Unseasonable weather, coldest Spring since 1979.
Set off for Sutton Park with 3 layers under waterproof, plus, hat, gloves and brolly!

Made 7 1/2 miles again; was glad of all my warm gear.
Recuperated quite rapidly, after a coffee.

Friday 24 th May

The weather forecast indicated any rain free activity would need to take place before midday.
Given the state of the allotment , that was the priority.So,a 3 hour workout there.
Unsurprisingly, the Test Match was washed out, so odds & sods jobs , before falling into
the global moronism of the IPL play off – exciting game,Indifferent to who won or lost..

Saturday 25 th May

Sunshine.6 1/2 miles in Sutton Park,awaiting news of imminent birth of 2 nd grandchild;
Vickee in Q E Hospital.”Push, Push”, as the old Billy Fury song exhorts….

A long wait ended at 7.35, with the arrival of baby, Jude, 8 lb 11 Oz. Both mum and baby are well
and the whole family are thrilled and delighted.Rest day for all of us tomorrow!

Sunday 26 th May

Day at home with grandson,Tom Henry, Vickee’s mum, Lynne. Warm day,restful, sort of!

Monday 27 th May

A rare, sunny Bank Holiday
Saw all the family, one way or another.

Everyone was photographed with baby Jude!

3 hours, PM, at the allotment – digging over ; weeding a large , neglected patch.
Back aching at the end, but 5 minutes on couch, cup of Earl Grey, was restored.
Hannah kindly took me to the ” Horse &Jockey” for a couple of pints; last night of their
inaugural,” Real Ale” festival.Good beer and a welcome innovation.Tom, holding his son,Jude.

Tuesday 28 th May

Antithesis of a day weather wise. Set off in dismal drizzle for Sutton Park.
Managed 7 1/2 miles.Not too wet, more condensation than anything else.

Recovery is quicker and I think the 3 x daily physio exercises on right shoulder are beginning
to take some effect.
Musical accompaniment from the ariose songbook of ” Grand Drive” .

Wednesday 29 th May

Short interval in the rainfall.3 hour toil at the allotment; 2 more beds to tidy before departure on June 10th. Strawberries are looking promising- should be a bountiful harvest.
Sore back!
Soak and a steam at the gym, helped. Felt really good until I watched England’ brainless performance against the Republic of Ireland, at Wembley. Has Hodgson got a clue?

Thursday 30 th May

Interesting if, by now, self evident, short article :-

http://www.npr.org/blogs/parallels/2013 … cient-Path

Went to see baby Jude, today. Champagne head-wetting – and a cuddle! Adorable boy…

Friday 31 st May

Bright sunshine. 6 1/2 mile ,fast walk in Sutton Park.
Could only be that sublime Beatles’ song:
“Please, don’t wake me, no, don’t shake me
Leave me where I am, I’m only sleeping”

Saturday 1st June

My mum’ s birthday – I treasure her memory.

Three back-aching hours’ labour at the allotment,
but it was sunny and plenty of company,too.

Sunday 2 nd June

Off to Hodnet Hall, Shropshire, for their plant festival.
The hall is not of great interest,but it’s aspect and the grounds are absolutely
magnificent – lakes, Rhododendron & Camellia Gardens,plus an array of
rare and interesting plants for sale – we couldn’t resist. Great day out.

Monday 3 rd June

To great friends,Penny & Graham , in Marlow ,for a two day visit.
Sunny weather, lunch in the garden. Walk in to town.
Drinks in the premises of a former Lloyds’ Bank – on their patio.
English summer idyll!
Hors D ‘oeuvres and then a wonderful leg of lamb, grilled on
the new BBQ.
If only we could rely on the weather. Lovely evening.

Tuesday 4 th June

Walk to lovely village where they shoot scenes from ” Midsomer Murders”.

A visit to the Parish Church,Hambleden, St. Mary the Virgin,where, inevitably, so much local
history can be traced; coffee outside the village shop that
provides many essential services. So much wealth in this part of the
country,yet local people are welcoming and ,looking at the Chiltern range
on a blessed sunny morning, reveals a totally unspoilt view, not Dysneyfied,
of rural England,
Lunch at the “Flowerpot Hotel”/Pub. Brakespears Ales / Ploughman’s Lunch.
( Although you could have braised pheasant) .A little heavy for lunchtime!

Walk back, along the Thames Towpath; taking in the preparations for the Henley Royal
Regatta. I should estimate we strolled about 5 miles overall.

Thank you Penny & Graham or 24 hours hospitality and sunshine.

Wednesday 5 th June

6 mile as along the canal Tyburn island to White Swan at Curdworth & back.
Pleasant if cooler conditions than of late.

That takes my total mileage with the rucksack to a little under a 100 miles.

Thursday 6 th June

Spent best part of an hour and a half packing and re-packing rucksack.
Weight is 6 1/2 Kg. Pleased with that.
No walking – all about catch up in garden, and rest,then allotment tomorrow!
News from one of our group that he has suffered strong back discomfort this week;
possibly jeopardising his participation. Hope this proves not to be the case.

Friday 7 th June

Allotment duties,in the sun – v.pleasant, if hard work; three hours….
A little more to accomplish over the W/End.
Garden duties, pm.

Super photo of grandson in London

Saturday 8 th June

Final weed-clearing at the allotment.
Watched England defeat Australia in the ICC, at Edgbaston – comprehensive, but lacking atmosphere.
Meal out with cousins, at The Plough, Shustoke; great pub food & good company.

Tags: Caminho spirit., Grandson arrives!, Instituto GEOGRAFICO E Cadastral, NHS, Portugal

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Categories Caminho, week's respite

Break in Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus

16 May

A stay in Kyrenia, from 8th to 15 th May,based in the Hotel Pia Bella.
Very comfortable place,beautiful gardens where it was a pleasure to have breakfast, each morning.

A couple of excursions to BellaPais Monastery in the mountains,famous for the book about it,”Bitter Lemons”, written by Laurence Durrell..
And a day,by Dolmus, to Lefkosa ( Nicosia);unmissable experience.

The local people were very hospitable and we ate in a different restaurant, each night.
Excellent food, very reasonable prices.

There is a definite element of catering for the Brits – ex pat links / armed forces – but this does not detract from the unique atmosphere

Not much accomplished by way of training for my caminho,except for sight seeing which involved a fair amount of walking.

Finally, have two hospital appointments, consecutive days,for an MRI on my back,today at the
Orthopaedic hospital and tomorrow at Good Hope hospital for two Cortisone injections in my shoulder….Ouch!

Then hopefully to resume some kit-carrying walking.

Tags: Bitter Lemons, week respite

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Categories week's respite

Preparation for Caminho

22 Apr

I went into overdrive in my preparations,chiefly a pair of trail shoes;Roclite 295, which were recommended on a variety of searches and websites. Very pleased with them, so far.
Also some outdoor kit and blister prevention.

I am maintaining a note of training schedule and as I have a week in Northern Cyprus early next month, I shall have to now make a daily effort,particularly walking with my rucksack,laden at 7 1/2 Kg,comprised of an old Notebook computer & heavy blanket.

I intend to lighten the overall weight,prior to departure,but am conscious of having to build up some resilience in my shoulder and back. Plus,I shall be using Poles – essential downhill!

Appointment for shoulder injections has come through,at last. 17th May – which is the last day before I should need to undergo second “Pre-op” – nobody surprised by nurses’ claims of 60%
unnecessary paperwork ,but what of the 100% too much ” cover your back” NHS culture?

DON’ T MAKE ME CRY !

Tuesday,23rd April. St George’s Day – that flag has too many distasteful connotations for me.

1 1/2 hours at the allotment including walk there and back. Weeding, planting Shallots.
First mistake – do not garden,bending and kneeling, then expect a pain-free walk!
As I realised during my afternoon 6 miler,with pack.
Used new App.”WalkJogRun”- useful for different routes in the locality.
EG there are 139 suggested routes for 6 miles within a reasonable distance of my house.
Rewarded with apple, oat and pecan bar,freshly baked by my daughter, Hannah.

ENSUITEPILGRIMBLOG

Just a brief note on the above title.
On last year’s Caminho,from Oporto,one of our group described us as above.
We were debating Albergues versus hotels; authenticity of pilgrims and so forth.
The consensus, as far as I can recall, was that as mainly 60+ we needed some nightly
home comforts like a shower and toilet within non-queueing distance!
I know by reading caminodesantiago.me/ forum and the like,that people have very strong and widely different views on this topic; my only conclusion to date,is that it appears the more Religous the standpoint, the more judgemental….Discernment or Value Judgement?

Finally, who gives most to Spain or Portugal’s beleaguered economies?That’s another worthy discussion point that could ease , or accelerate the passing of a few miles on foot.

I know – Mary and Joseph never had to ponder that dilemma.

Wednesday 24 th April

Am at last realising some value from my Audible subscription on my latest walks.
Just about to finish ” The Art of Fielding”,which although it is set in the milieu of American College Baseball, ( a sport ( game? ) ) I detest,has been engrossing.
Flawed characters, in-depth knowledge of a discipline; disturbing at times.Recommended to all Cricket lovers. In fact to fans of any sport.

A friend of mine,from Portugal left this YouTube link on my Facebook page today:-
EL PODER DEL CAMINO de Santiago – Trailer

TRAINING – 45 minutes in gym ,then 15 mins in Spa Pool. Short walk. Then cut grass.Exciting?

Thursday 25th April

Used the “new” App to select a local,7 mile walk. This took 2 hrs 20 minutes and felt quite comfortable; had to stop for a can of orange Lucozade at a Tesco’s, after 6 Miles.
These local walks have 2 different aspects. First, choosing roads along which I have driven many times, but never walked . Second, noticing footpaths and interesting
houses, older ones, amongst new-builds,usually half-hidden from view by hedges,or at the end of
lengthy drives.
I could have made offers on several.

Friday 26th April

Rest day! Met with one of my walking companions,for a couple of beers. As well as the June
Caminho, we think that we might possibly walk Oporto to Santiago de Compostella in September.

Saturday 27 th April

The family are bemused by the seemingly regular arrival of little packages in the post; this morning
I received a packet of moleskin anti- blister pads, from the USA.
The States seem to produce a ranges of walking/ running aids that are impossible to obtain here,
even on the ubiquitous Amazon. For example,”HikeGoo” ! Great name,highly recommended…but.

Completed 9 mile walk, mainly in Sutton Park. Bright sunshine, brisk breeze at times and one
Blustery shower. A couple of vivid coloured birds ( Nutthatch ?) and some Shetland ponies grazing.
Came out at Four Oaks Gate; took bus back home.

Sunday 28 th April

Eventually went to gym in the afternoon.
Did a longer session than planned, as I was cycling, watching Warwickshire ( my county) frustrate
Somerset in a County Championship game; last wicket partnership held out for ever.
Beats 20/20 Every-time. Why?
If you watch the India based IPL, which I do, from time to time ; on a positive note there are cricketers from all continents playing together , as loosely assembled guns for hire.
Then, coverage on ITV3 , has seasoned cricketers, well past their best( if they ever had a best),chaired by the mandatory eye – candy!
Every time a wicket falls, or a 6 is scored ( which a…e came up with ” A Maximum!) , we get mandatory shots of dancers ,who make ” Pan’s People ” look like the “maximum”!
And shots of spectators, waving frenetically at the camera.Then there’s the adverts….
As Barney Ronay, in the Guardian put it, on Saturday:-
” unwitting instruments of creeping, global moronism”. Think I’ ll have it on my tombstone, but
substituting “victim” for “instrument”. Suffering a ” Grumpy Old Man” moment!

Tuesday 30th April

7 mile walk ( with pack ) in Sutton Park, with my daughter, Hannah. O.K

Wednesday 1st May
HAL AN TOW, JOLLY RUMBLE OH
WE WERE UP LONG BEFORE THE DAY OH
TO WELCOME IN THE SUMMER
TO WELCOME IN THE MAY OH
THE SUMMER IS A-COMIN’ IN
AND WINTER’S GONE AWAY OH

Wonderful,old English folk song-300 years old?
But it was that kind of day.

Spent 2 1/2 hours digging in garden &; planting,
then to hospital for CTC Scan on my back.

Thursday 2 nd May

AM,attended a funeral of old school friend, who had died after a long illness.
Very High Anglican – struck by lyrics and readings which contain so many references
to the countryside and by association, walking. For example, this line from the first hymn:-
” O,LORD MY GOD, WHEN I IN AWESOME WONDER”
” When I look down from lofty mountain grandeur,
And hear the brook and feel the gentle breeze.”

And from the Book of Ecclesiastes:-

” There is a time for everything…

a time to scatter stones and to gather them”

Reminded me of the custom practised by many on the Caminho of bringing a stone from
home and placing it in a significant place en route.

” a time to plant and a time to uproot”

I shall not be carrying a stone but a packet of seeds given to me especially to sow along the Way.
( See image at the foot of this post copyright Bro. David)

TRAINING :- 7 miles in Sutton Park, glorious weather but as I was out of sync with my
painkillers,so I felt it in my back towards the end.”Turn,Turn,Turn…”

Sunday 5 th May

10 miles with pack along the Fazeley canal into town,on behalf of Macmillan Cancer Relief; their
Annual charity walk. V. Enjoyable and apart from having to sit for an hour on the cast iron seats
on the balcony of the Malt Shovel Pub, opposite the N.I.A, felt really good.Great views of the canal,
in the hub of Birmingham’s rather over-inflated view of itself as a tourist hotspot!
Pity the service in the Pub didn’t match it- the live Jazz was relaxing and mellow.

Last serious training, I should think , before flying to N.Cyprus on Wednesday.

Am providing dinner for our Portugal Caminoists tomorrow evening,after a route planning meeting;
Will we be any the wiser? Am not a gambling man!

Tags: Portuguese coastal, preparation, Santiago de Compostella, Thinking., training, walking

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