ensuitepilgrim's Blog

Returned from sojourn in the “Bus”, to the reality of hospital appointments and complicated arrangements around Wafarin and Clexane injections.
Two appointments, back to back, Monday & Tuesday.
Reduction in Warfarin dose, because of surgery on 6 th October,Clexane only , from 2nd October; Warfarin AND Clexane after the Op.until next appointment on 13 th October.
The surgery on Monday 6 th is to remove the Filter in my neck,which was inserted earlier in the Summer , to prevent the possibility of a blood clot,fears for which were aroused by the discovery of a small primary embolism, after a CT Scan. Hope it’s dissolved, evaporated, whatever!

Some confusion around meeting with my consultant, which he stated would be 3 months from the surgery on July 3 rd; having rung his secretary to be told that the only appt. She had was for 29 th December – that would be almost 6 months after surgery.
To increase my fitness, I have restarted walking, locally, with four miles along the Newhall Valley on Tuesday 1st October.
Then a 2 1/2 hour “weeding” session at the allotment, on Wednesday 2nd.
Gathered some Strawberries – never experienced that before – must be the result of a long, dry, warm September.
Leg as and knees OK but my back aches!
Still, walk on….

On the afternoon, after arriving at the Igueldo Campsite, we just sunbathed and discussed the possibilities for dinner.
We walked a KM to Igueldo Village and chose a restaurant that was peopled by locals; proved to b a good choice, with a helpful waitress digging out an English translation of the menu.

The next two days were taken up by visiting San Sebastián, or Donostia to give the Basque name.
Taking coffee near the market:-

We chanced upon a wedding where a band , rather incongruously, played British military tunes to greet the bride.

SS has a beautiful beach, La Concha, and a harbour.

After a Pintxos lunch, time to get the bus back up the hill.

Hannah, in the meantime, had met some Spanish campers on the site, who owned a Finca in the Canary Islands; they invited us to help,ourselves to fruit and veg, they had brought with them .
It can only happen when you are camping!

Sunday saw us doing more sight seeing,
Summed up in this great, little poster:-

Our day was completed with a Pintxos and Txakoli dinner.
Txakoli or Chacolí is a slightly sparkling, very dry white wine with high acidity and low alcohol content produced in the Spanish provinces of the Basque Country, …enough said.
San Sebastián was a treat in every sense and the weather continued to bless us.

Next stop Bordeaux,Unesco Heritage Site, a city driven by on many a summers’ holiday.
Easy drive from S S to BX, thought the Landes forest and the Snooper Sat Nav, which has the details of thousands of campsites delivered us to the lakeside campsite, via the Rocade (BX Ring road ).
BBQ for dinner after a lazy afternoon.
Next day, took bus from outside the site , then a Tram, to the heart of the city.
Really useful, if complicated city plan from the tourist office, was our guide; Barbara having far more patience than me!
We walked the best part of eight miles; some of the Sights:-

Another feature,The “Miroir d’Eau” is less than 10 years old, but located just across from a monument nearly 3 centuries old, it has become one of the city’s main attractions.

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I think they call this a “Trompe L’oeil” – An English Jag in a car park!

…

Another collision of two cultures?

And finally something more cultured, The Girondins Fountain.

We reluctantly made our way home with an overnight stop in the little Loir region – a fortnight in which we drove 1900 miles approximately,1500 in France and Spain – a great trip to great places.
Ps some of the photos are out of sequence, I not out of order!

Barbara pulled Fouras out of the hat, as we researched the next stop.
On the Atlantic coast, just below La Rochelle.

A lovely campsite,15 mins walk from the town.
A surprising feature of this area was the number of Hollyhocks, growing indiscriminately along pavements, in gardens and in crevices.
My favourite Cottage Garden flower- hit and miss in my garden, maybe I need to add some sand to the soil!

The town had two wonderful markets, one specifically for fish and Oysters, which are largely farmed here.
Had fish BBQ, first night.

There is a fort and lot of walks – the casino. In the Bois Vert, brought many visitors by Train , in the 19 th Century; no trace of it now, although the setting is very peaceful.

Enjoyed Fouras, two super beaches,too.

Then, after three days , it was time to move South to San Sebastián.
250 miles approx.

Easy drive along the Autoroute d ‘ Oiseaux, then the N 10/A 63 around Bordeaux and through the Landes Forest.
I have driven this way so many times in the last 40 years.
Made chunks of it Peage- not too expensive.
Good journey, driving through Central S S , thankfully during Siesta, on and up a 5 KM hill- Mount Igueldo, to the campsite.
The weather continue to be bountiful; worth the scouring of websites!
Beach at Fouras.

Will update on San Sebastián, shortly; health wise, all good, no pain killers ,plus plenty of walking!

Left Vesey Road at 3A M,arrived at Eurotunnel , Folkestone in plenty of time for the 07.20 crossing.
Quick nap in the back, during the 35 minute journey and were en route; there were actually some blue clouds over Coquelles.
Coffee stop in the Somme Valley and then a good journey for the rest of the day brought us to Amboise in the Loire Valley.a journey of 340 miles,add that to a 190 miles in the UK; twas like the old days!
No back pain and no pain killers.

The campsite is situated on a large island in the Loire River, with easy access to the town and the imposing Chateau, opposite the campsite.

There was a terrace bar adjacent to the site where we enjoyed a Glass of Jupiter in temperature of 26 degrees.

Ready cooked meal defrosted, from home, and a relatively early night.

Monday, 15 th. Blue skies and a walk around Amboise’s medieval streets.
Having visited a number of Loire Chateaux, over the years,I tend to opt out of visits – memories of large, dusty rooms and numerous tapestries, an Art form wasted on me.
Being Monday,all the shops were closed except a Mini Carrefour, which was a life saver.
An afternoon of sheer idleness, dozing in the sun.

Most striking feature of this very pleasant campsite,were the number of state of the art Motorhomes – more like a show ground than a campsite.
If I had 70.000. € spare I should have been spoilt or choice between a Hobby, a Cathargo Chic, several Burstners…..which will not mean a lot, unless you ‘re an aficionado, or a sad…..! Like me.

This is our down to earth, little Autotrail Excel.

Tomorrow, en route to Fouras, a little village on the Atlantic, near La Rochelle; about a three hour drive, South West.

Have to finish as it is time for a beer and to fire up the griddle – all those Carrefour treats.
Bon Appetit!

After a relatively easy drive down to the Great Western Hotel,Highbury; quick change into boots and suits, by taxi to nearby Stoke Newington Town Hall and the Rose and Crown Pub, by twelve noon.

After a refreshing ” Sharpener” we took our places in the auditorium, in the town hall.The civil ceremony was presided over with cordiality.After the exchange of vows and rings, between Jessica and Jack,senior members of Jessica”s family gathered together to sing “Dancing Day”, beautiful acoustics, too.This song has been performed at the family’s weddings for forty years.

The bride and groom leaving the town hall , for nearby Clissold Park, where drinks were served to soften the pain of photos!
Beautiful weather and setting.

We were then directed to the Wedding venue, which was located in a restored, enormous boiler room – more like a hall – which overlooked the local reservoir,adjacent to boating facilities.

Here follow pictures of the exterior and interior of the West Reservoir Centre.

Extremely enjoyable meal, funny speeches and very attentive drinks waiters
made it a very convivial feast.
Time passed so quickly – a Tug of War on the jetty – a live band was soon performing and by 9 pm trays of hot pork rolls appeared and were enjoyed by all.

I managed a couple of dances,having been cajoled on to the floor by the strains of Spencer Davis’s ” Keep On Running”.

Celebrations were scheduled to finish at 1 am, which is great if like the majority of guests you are in your early thirties!

My legs began to run out by about 11.30 pm, so farewells and thanks were bid and a taxi ride was swiftly arranged, back to the hotel.

We had a wonderful day and I was particularly pleased that ,counting the drive down to London of 119 miles, I kept going for such a long time.

Home by 11am, next day and then preparing the Bus for the trip over to
France! 07.20 by Eurotunnel.

I was really cheered by the fact that the weather forecasts had not only improved since Thursday, but there was also concurrence between websites!

Adieu for the present.

08.30 appointment at the Anti-Coagulant Clinic, today.
Taking Warfarin means regular visits until the blood count stabilises, in my case between 2.00. – 3.00.
A month,today, on I hit a stable 2.00 – significant enough to be given a fortnight off attendance at the clinic to take a fortnight’s break.More later.

In the meantime, attendance tomorrow at a wedding in Stoke Newington.
Daughter of close friends to be wed.
I did make a contribution to the celebrations already , by collecting rose petals from far and near – organic confetti! Long since delivered to the bride’s mum.
So, wedding and overnight stay in local hotel; the weather forecast ,
( more about those in a minute ) , looks really good and bearing mind some of the arrangements ,eg Canapés and drinks in nearby park, that bodes well for a great day.
The fortnight break begins Sunday AM, driving down to Folkestone for Eurotunnel 7.20 am crossing.

Weather forecasts ……Well I despair!

If you imagine Paris as the centre of a Geographic clock….come on it’s easy!
Then you could place Luxembourg at Midday.
North Eastern France at 14.00
Lyon at 16.00
Montpellier at 18.00
Toulouse at 20.00
San Sebastián ( N W Spain) at 01.00

These are all on the radar, not to mention Bavaria and Lake Garda.

Still with me?

Well, I spent hours researching weather forecast sites, for short and long term weather prospects …there was little in the way of concordat.
For example, BBC and Weather Accururist, both of which are highly placed on Google, contradict each other with the only kind of consistency I could find!

So, as I write this up at 21 .00, Thursday evening, no final decision but for a possible drop down to Amboise , in the Loire Valley, for starters.

Out of desperation I researched a weather forecast App.
Best recommended was, I am not joking, “Dark Sky”!

Given my mood earlier , it was a must buy.

So many roads, which one to choose?

“Methinks that the moment my legs begin to move, my thoughts begin to flow.” –Henry David Thoreau

For ” legs” read Motorhome….

A bientot.

,

Walking a Caminho :- Solo Pilgrim Profile – Portuguese Coastal Route.

THE BASICS

Name: John Twort

Country: England

Route: Porto to S de C, Coastal Route

Start: Matosinhos Mercardo Metro Stop

Finish: Santiago de Compostella

Year: September, 2013

Distance: 1375 miles from Birmingham UK to Porto

Albergue: Airporto Hostal,Porto; warm welcome,helpful hosts & a
short Metro ride from the airport

THE QUESTIONNAIRE

WHAT WAS A CHALLENGE ON THE CAMINHO ?

Walking solo; previous Caminhos had been in groups and rooming with a close friend, for the most part.
There were not many Pelegrinos on this beautiful route; surprisingly I became used to walking alone, with either the Ocean for company, or my I-Pod.
I did rub along with a small number of other Pelegrinos, with three of whom, I am still in touch.
But the biggest challenge challenge came on entering Esposende, when I noticed that I was passing blood when urinating -was this because of too much Ibruprofen – three months later a Urologist revealed the real cause.

THE UNEXPECTED ALONG THE WAY

I went from eight painkillers to two a day after my “scare” and found that by resting judiciously, particularly at the end of the day,I could cope and to my relief, the bleeding stopped.
In Viano de Castello, I made the acquaintance of Anna, from Germany,who was en route to S de C, via a different itinerary to mine.
The next morning,I decided to take a local stopping train, two stops along, where I could embark close to the Caminho and the ocean; who should I find in the compartment, but Anna! With an impressive map on her knee.

I enquired about the map, but she could not recall the website, promising to E-Mail the address when she could find the details; I wished her Bom Caminho as I alighted from the train.

Imagine my surprise, when some days later and by now in Spain, when I came across a note ( which I still have ), on the trail, a stone at each corner,
which said:-

“For John…….”www.caminador.es”…….lovely greetings Anna
The Lady With the Map! ”

This is Anna.

IN WHAT WAYS DID LIFE CHANGE ON RETURNING HOME

As a direct consequence of the Caminho,walking solo, I felt a resurgence of self-confidence and achievement, notwithstanding the many welcoming and helpful locals, who helped in different ways – grateful memories and photos.

Celebrated eldest grandson’s second birthday, in October.Tom Henry and the family , had a great day.

Then I suffered a hernia, which was successfully dealt with on Friday,13 th December – me superstitious?

Unfortunately, the bleeding returned, far more heavily and on Christmas Eve I was diagnosed with cancer of the bladder – to be removed in the New Year, after Chemotherapy in the Spring; as I write I am recovering from that, slowly – it was a different journey, which I have blogged on “ensuitepilgrim/ WordPress”
My next adventure will be to walk part of the Via de la Plata, from Seville to Caceres, hopefully in the Spring of 2015.

FAVOURITE QUOTATION

When that April with his showers soote…………………showers sweet
The drought of March hath piercèd to the root
And bathèd every vein in such liquor………………………rootlet / liquid
Of which virtúe engendered is the flower;

When Zephyrus eke with his sweetè breath………………the West Wind / also
Inspirèd hath in every holt and heath………………………grove & field
The tender croppès, and the youngè sun……..……………young shoots / Spring sun
Hath in the Ram his halfè course y-run……………………in Aries / has run

And smallè fowlès maken melody……………………………small birds
That sleepen all the night with open eye…………………..who sleep
(So pricketh them Natúre in their couráges)…………….spurs / spirits
Then longen folk to go on pilgrimáges……………….people long
And palmers for to seeken strangè strands………………..pilgrims / shores
To fernè hallows couth in sundry lands……………………distant shrines known

The first lines of ‘The General Prologue to the Canterbury Tales’ ~ Geoffrey Chaucer

The reawakening of that insatiable need to walk a Caminho; albeit Ensuite!

FAVOURITE PHOTOS

” En Route to Vila do Conde – 23 KM – sunshine and sea breezes”

” Hospitable beach bar proprietor; coffee , water gratis to me as a Pelegrino”

“All Pelegrinos welcome guidance….”

” Church of St, Tiago – Castelo do Neiva – some modern stained glass”

“Donde est Playa Americana por favour?- No wonder he was nonplussed!”

Received letter, today, confirming a phone- call, earlier in the week, for my Consultant.
Results from the Laparoscopic Cystectomy ( six weeks ago ).
These show that the Cancer has been removed completely.
In addition, there was an incidental cancer found in the Prosate,also removed,requiring only routine follow-up, every few months.
Having also removed my Appendix; not much left!

So, cheering news for now – Remission – no such thing as a cure.

Ongoing issue is Spiking temperatures which are probably the result of a urine infection for which I have been prescribed some “heavy” anti- Biotics, which I am currently taking and for the next five days.

On third week of Warfarin tablets, plus the daily, Clexane injection, self-administered.
The fun never stops…

Shakespeare’s comment on friendship, love, constancy and fickleness, this romantic comedy takes us from the controlled world of Verona and Milan to the wildness of the forest where, it seems, anything can happen.

A visit here is always memorable, to see a play neglected on the British stage for 44 years, apparently.
There are perhaps one or two soliloquies that meander, off- putting for a Director?
But this production overcame this with simple but effective set changes and from nearly every scene the actors sprinted to and fro.
Your credibility is no more tested than any of WS’s more popular Romantic plays; the pastoral scenes as ever providing the setting where the implausible becomes possible.
Reconciliation is the theme,though it was hard to reconcile one’s feelings towards Proteus, one of the Two – such a twerp!
Though he did send himself up occasionally.
The inevitable Rustics were great fun, plus a real,live Dog, a scene stealer!

Great evening, taxi back to Farmhouse B & B; part of Barbara’s Birthday celebrations.
Excellent breakfast after opening Cards and presents, with cups of tea, Ensuite -my favourite word!
On a personal note I was nervous about being out and about – we had an afternoon and Picnic at Charlecote a Park ( Thanks, Hannah) – because of the unreliability of some of the UROSTOMY bags.
However, came through without any problems….

Just Blogging this on a comfy settee, in The Golden Bee, with coffee and soda water….Simple things

“That man that hath a tongue, I say is no man, if with his tongue he cannot win a woman.”
― William Shakespeare, The Two Gentlemen of Verona

The last few days have seen an improvement, mentally; I feel that I have left the Purgatory of semi-awareness and have been re admitted into the land of full consciousness!
Would not presume to call it Heaven….
How do you recognise such an improvement ?

I have finished Donna Tartt’s “The a Goldfinch” – an epic book, and have begun “All is Silence” by Manueline Rivas, translated from Galician Spanish, set on the Atlantic Coast, in the era, just prior to the death of that Fascist bastard,Franco – nothing to do with the Caminho – more like “Moonfleet” meets ” Lord Of The Flies”.

Watched much of the Commonwealth Games – The Anti Olympics! Terrific…
Some great 20-20 Quarter finals ; come on you Bears!

Looking forward to Michael Portillo’s latest railway journeys, set in World War I, tonight, on BBC 2- political pillock, turned great broadcaster!

Able to concentrate for longer- crosswords, sudoku, Leader columns in the papers…..

Going to Stratford to see ” Two Gentlemen of Verona”, tomorrow, part of Barbara’s Birthday week celebrations!

Physically,still occasional Gas Attacks.
Moving towards solving leaky , Urostomy bags problem – no leaks in current version.
For the uninitiated, bags should last up to three days before changing…..

Appointment at Good Hope Hospital, today, Anti- coagulant Department, to
Set up Warfarin treatment
So, basically, I have a secondary condition around Blood thinning- all because of PE, caused by Chemo.
Cannot travel by plane for three months and if driving distances, shake a leg every hour or so.
This treatment will be regularly monitored till correct level achieved.
It is in tablet form, so in ten days or so, I can stop the self injection of Rexclane.
Am able walk around the block, up ad around the garden; may get Hannah to drive me to the allotment, later in the week.

We had a lovely w/end visit from Dan, Nelly Tom and baby Jake.
Barbara tok Tom down to the plot and they came back with potatoes,spinach, carrots French and Runner gleans, plus courgettes and lettuce- able to give them a large bagful to take home!

To close, a poem to mark the” official” beginning of WW I – putting all,our afflictions into perspective…….

FUTILITY

The sun is receding from the sky,
Which is now painted a deep crimson red
But the blood of bodies lying, left to die
Have filled this red sky with unease and dread

For, a few hours ago, a battle was fought
One side was victorious, the other was mercilessly defeated
But the value of human life came to nought
Jesus’ maxim, “Love thy neighbour” was severely dented

Among the battered bodies, a soldier rises from the ground
With great discomfiture, and holds his bruised knee
He looks around at the destruction and carcasses strewn all around
And it is only then that he starts crying inconsolably

For he is all alone, in this desolate picture of heartache and grief
He starts looking at one bloody corpse after another
For his friends and comrades, with whom his association was brief
And then he, with watery eyes, looks at the body of his brother

His brother had just joined service, he had not served in the regiment long
But Fate and Death selected him, and played a cruel joke
With his brother, with whom the soldier would sometimes sing a song
And when catching him rob apples red-handed, his ribs he would gently poke

It is only now that the lonely soldier realizes
How utterly futile it is to fight a war!
He surveys the dead fathers, sons and brothers of all sizes
He regrets his mistake, the rest of the world he wants peace for

And then he decides to do something in this endeavour, there and then
He will preach to the world the foolishness of battles
He does not exactly know how, where and when
But nobody can stop a man’s resolve, when his conscience rattles

War is NOT a necessary evil, it can be stopped
Peace and dialogue have never hurt Mother Earth
For it is better, than to have bodies mercilessly chopped
That, to a new happy world, we give a grand new birth
RONY PATRA