ensuitepilgrim's Blog

Nature says thou shalt keep the air, skate, swim, walk, ride, run. When you have worn out your shoes, the strength of the sole leather has passed into the fibre of your body. I measure your health by the number of shoes and hats and clothes you have worn out. He is the richest man who pays the largest debt to his shoemaker. ~Ralph Waldo Emerson, 1851

Well, I could do with bookmaker;methinks one is almost caput ,hence the blister; but we still managed 26 Km. 

   There were wild flowers in abundance as well as the “fauna” above… 

A much needed Bocadillo and our favourite “Glacial “,Cruzcampo.

We met up with some Dutch Pelegrinos in the Main Square, in Zafra and spent a long time chatting and buying….! 

 The next day we found breakfast in a roadside Hostal,en route for Villafranca de los Barros,the wine capital of this, the Guadiana region.A thought that kept me going,despite the blister and some very rough surfaces. 

 This was another long walk; we needed several water breaks. 

    We  were grateful to enter Casa Perin,a tastefully designed  residence,and delighted to discover that the hostess was also a Brewer – our first Spanish micro brewery! Cheers! 

 We only had one………for now. 

“The best doesn’t always happen ~ but if you make the best out of what does happen ~ and if you always do that – you will be happy.” 

~ Berry Gordy

Leaving El Real de la Jara, we forded a stream and entered Extremedura. Still Oak forests and Cork trees. 

This castle was the stronghold of the knights who used to guard this route.

A feature,or,  one that is lacking – places for respite – on this Camino, you need to carry  adequate water & snacks to get you through long stretches, as there are no villages,hence no cafés, etc;

However,Some  8 Km out of Monesterio, our destination, incongruously, we came upon a motorway services – Leo Complex – same name as our hotel that evening.We had coffee and My lifesaver,Agua Con Gaz, and were overheard by a family of three, the father having worked in Birmingham and lived in Mere Green – coincidence?

Then a trip to the state of the art loos ,revealed a polite notice that had to be captured. 

 We entered Monesterio, Ham Capital of the region, passing by the Museum of Ham , we found our Hotel Leo.

Mac had a problem with a loose heel one on of his boots; the receptionist at the hotel arranged for him to be taken to a local, hardware store ( closed Sunday ), owned by her aunt,who kindly opened up to sell Mac some Superglue whereby he was able to repair his boot, narrowly avoiding glueing himself to the chair.Such helpfulness…Can you imagine that  happening in a Travelodge?

Next day,the terrain began to change from the Plata  being. ensconced by stone walls, and brush.

   The plains of Tetudia to the West and the Campina Sur to the East; rolling plains and more arable farming, with massive vistas on either side of our Roman route,which undulated and seemed to bisect them both. 

   Our  destination,Fuente  De Cantos,loomed tantalisingly in the distance.We crossed another stream and took a bag break,by a mini cross”. 

   We reached our Apartment, after 23 Km;very  welcoming and spacious,with the biggest grasshopper I have ever seen ! 

 Tomorrow,Zafra a beautiful place apparently; after 27km, I hope we can appreciate it. Meanwhile….. 

  If you think this was a plant; you are right.The smile was soon wiped of our faces when we climbed the “Calvary” Hill towards the end of the day’s walk.

We entered the National Park and enjoyed a beautiful walk through Mediterranean Oak Forests. 

 We were rewarded for our breathless 550 Metre ascent, with the spectacle of Iberian Black Pigs snuffling about. 

 And the ancient mining village ( our next destination ),Almaden de la Plata; an unspoilt gem of a village,where we found El Romeral, our Casa Rural.Storks nesting on the church roof.

Treated ourselves to “Tinto Verano” for Mac; G & T for me. 

 Our next walk, took us through more Oak forest, punctuated by Cactus hedges and cared for countryside. 

 The Camino took us past farms, with goats, pigs and sheep; we were moments behind this birthday. 

   The Camino contined through managed forest,and was well signposted by the Seville Confraternity. 

 Two Kms from our destination was a poignant memorial to the man most responsible for resurrecting the Via de la Plata in Andalucia; his enthusiasm resulted in the office of volunteers referred to earlier in the Blog and their great way marking.

Real de la Jara, castle, sleepy seeming place, our next stop. 

We had climbed another,unanticipated Calvary on our way down; a fountain for Pelegrinos to refresh themselves! 

 To La Encina Hostal, which was situated on the edge of a small, industrial estate; inconguous place !

We met up with an American and a Dutch coupłe that we had bumped into several times.Great company as we spent the afternoon, in the sun together swapping experiences, etc.Quite the norm on a Camino.

Picture of our Dutch friends as they were offered Jelly Beans with their Vino! Good humoured, generous hosts…. 

Walked out of this pleasant dormitory for Seville,through an industrial estate,on to the original Camino.

Because of overnight rain, the path was very sodden and soon became muddy – the sort of goo that sticks to the soles and sides of your boots like putty – making heavy going for the first two kilometres.After a gradual ascent,it became less of a trial; scenery of Olive ,Orange trees and occasional pastures.Rare sight of a dwelling.  

Plentiful wild flowers.  

  Some cattle, rabbits.

We spied a sign pointing to “Water”, in several languages and intrigued by such a rare facility,made for what was a well, that you primed by a pump; peaceful setting for a ham & cheese sandwich until we were joined by 30+ school children! from Seville, on a bit of a hike; lovely kids,as it turned out.Mac took some photos and we chatted to some of the staff and children. 

 Eventually, taking time to smell the flowers and avoid the boulders, we reached the Castillo de Blanco Hotel.

Washing done , beers in hand; after having managed to take a bloody sliver out of my elbow on the balcony door! 

 Found local restaurant in the village for an€8.00 Menu:- Gazpacho, Deer Stew,Pud,Glass of wine – Muy Bien!

“For me there is only the traveling on paths that have heart, on any path that may have heart, and the only worthwhile challenge is to traverse its full length–and there I travel looking, looking breathlessly.” 

Landed in Seville, in good time; took the airport bus in to the city and followed excellent directions to the Backpackers Hostel, in the Triana district, close to the Camino.Friendly, well equipped  place.

We took a short stroll to the Seville Camino Confraternity Office,having a beer, en route,in the Triana district,just below the Punta Isabell II ; lively, with families beginning the evening Paseo. We received a warm welcome in the Pilgrim Office,where we bought the English Guide,badges and de la Plata T-Shirt! All for a good cause…

Walked back, passing Flamenco Boutiques. 

And alleyways giving a grim reminder of the past. 

  After an enjoyable meal,we were thinking of our preparations for the First Stage,given rain was forecast.

However, the next morning was bright and we set off through quiet streets, stopping at a Mural,depicting the Camino, with a 1000 Km sign to Santiago. 

     We walked through quite uninteresting scenery and after an hour and a half were glad of our first coffee stop, plus two of Hannah’s chocolate special cakes.

  We reached Santiponce,once dominated by the San Isidoro del Campo Monastery; then past the Roman site of Italica,the most enjoyable part of the walk,so far. 

 Orange Trees, then fields of young  wheat and Olive Trees before we followed the sign to Guillena; arriving just as the promised rain began to fall,with thunder echoing in the distance. 

   We reached Hostal Bar Frances and got a Pelegrino deal of bed, breakfast and evening meal for €30.00 each!

Ihave lived with shades so long, 
And talked to them so oft, 
Since forth from cot and croft 
I went mankind among, 
   That sometimes they 
   In their dim style 
   Will pause awhile 

   To hear my say;

 Thomas Hardy

Easter Monday and down to Dorset for a break in the Campervan,as the weather was so promising.

An initial scare as there was a fuel leak, which meant a long stop on the M40 verge awaiting a repair.

Eventually reached the campsite, 4 miles out of Poole,with a bus stop at the gate.

Bus stops are very important because the “Bus” can be left and travelling locally is always interesting.

Poole Old Town and Quay were very interesting; a working port as well as the usual trips round the Bay,etc.

We ski enjoyed a riverside picnic and village trail at Wareham; taking the train from Poole.

View from Poole Station:- After a  visit to St Peter’s Finger, the local Pub, it was a BBQ,back at the site.

The next day we walked a 10 mile,self- guided trail, from Poole to the Jurassic coast,returning by the aforementioned local bus,from Swanage. It was with great reluctance we retuned home on Thursday,but at least the journey was uneventful!

The last few days given over to gardening and Allotment work, plus packing and weighing of my rucksack,to keep it below the 10 KG threshold.

On Monday,13th,Barbara & Hannah fly off the the Canary Islands for a week.

On Tuesday, I fly down to Seville , with Mac, to begin our walk along the Camino,Via de la a Plata on Wednesday.

After having to cancel my participation last May,nearly a year on, after surgery,recuperation and training ( of a sort); a mixture of anticipation and trepidation.Thankfull,given the last year, to be going…..Forth, pilgrim, forth! Forth, beast, out of your stall!

Know your country: look up, thank God for all;

Hold the high way, and let your spirit steer,

And truth shall deliver you, have no fear. Chaucer.

And, with Mac for company, we shall not be short of new companions along the way…

“The footprints of those who walked together never vanish”.   “Ultreia” 

If you search “Easter ” on YouTube,you can find  this sequence.The Bunny Song,I mean…

Rabbits,Lambs,Chicks  have managed to obscure and Disneyfy  Easter;making it as palatable as your M & S Easter Egg. Google “LATINOS POST” for some interesting stuff on this!

The most important Feast of the Church Year – bursting out of the tomb, versus the virgin birth – Faith?

Well, I digress,  because I have been waiting for a call to hospital , a telescopic procedure through the Stoma, to check on bottom- end Kidney function – blood test three weeks ago,so presumption is no urgency….No call,yet!

Too late now as a trip,to Dorset is planned from Easter Monday, for three nights in the motorhome.dry,mild weather forecast.

TRAINING :- have been walking regularly, with 80% weight in rucksack – now becoming impatient with the routine and just wanting to get started – not found the carriage a problem, so far, but distances from Seville,plus temperatures will raise the bar!

The minutiae of packing the rucksack is an ongoing saga of ” chuck that ; include that”.over 300 km, a kilogram will make a difference.

Benefits so far have been,using the Pacerpoles bought two months ago – posture , balance and stride.Carrying some weight on the back and listening to the I-Pod.Additional weight of two KG, ie litres of water,minimum,will add to pack weight,but will lessen as the day proceeds.

Less than a fortnight to go- so this Holy Day ( for some  )  Happy Easter 

“Let every man and woman count himself immortal.  Let him catch the revelation of Jesus in his resurrection.  Let him say not merely, “Christ is risen,” but “I shall rise.”  ~Phillips Brooks – And walk on…

https://youtu.be/jgjK2ITm_eM Neil Young, “Walk On”

1. John Hillaby said ‘treat your feet like a pair of newborn twin babies’ and
2. the French proverb ‘Time takes its revenge of what is done without it’ (or take it slowly).

“While we keep in basic nick throughout the year, we have always built up our feet, knees and back gradually over the three weeks immediately before a long walk. Now we are over 65, we spread the same preparations over four weeks, doing a little more each day.

We walk between half and one hour each morning before breakfast and intersperse that with two or three long walks in the final two weeks before we go. However, we believe the only way to fully harden up for a long walk is during the walk itself, so the first three to five days of the actual walk must be taken carefully.

After the first ten days of training wearing a pack that is half the weight of what we usually carry, we have started to harden up our bodies in preparation for the walk. We then do about a ten mile (15/18 kms) walk. Five or six days later (the next weekend) we do a fifteen mile (22/26 kms) walk.

Pre-departure training toughens the soles of the feet, the ankle, knee and hip joints and the muscles at the base of the back. This minimises excessive soreness in the first few days which can be a reason people attempting a long walk give up in those first few days.”

I found this advice,rather too late for me,on the Striders’Website.

However,I have been preparing by walks of variable length,over the last three months or more, but not in the above order!

Today, will be the first ,wearing my rucksack,with something like the equivalent weight,I shall hopefully carry, from Seville,in less than a month’s time.

I am restricting the packed weight to 10 KG.

The photo below , shows the somewhat messy bits of kit that have to be included in the final pack….

( Boots will be worn,of course )

I completed a 7 mile walk today, with 80% Rucksack weight,without any discomfort …really pleased.

This sculpture greets you as you leave Sao Bento Metro, and walk up the hill to the Cathedral
There is evidence of neglect in this area,lack,of civic money,perhaps,given the current financial problems,but the washing lines,tumble down edges of buildings,enhance the domination of the Se – Porto’s Cathedral – it is authentic.No Vatican-Papal fussiness,nor Wesminster security.Untroubled , welcoming and relaxing

That would not have been the case for those pilloried in the square,centuries ago.

Walking down this ancient lane,behind the Cathedral.

Unfortunately,Our Lady had just popped out for the day,nevertheless our good fortune took us to coffee on the Cais de Ribeira,respite before a recommended visit to Igreja de San Francisco.
The Igreja de São Francisco is the most prominent Gothic monument in Porto, Portugal, being also noted for its outstanding Baroque inner decoration. It is located in the historic centre of the city, declared World Heritage Site by UNESCO. It is a Museum now,rather than a parish church.

it also contains ancient,burial sites,including an ossuary.
The authorities banned in – church burials since 1866.

After lunch,a tram trip along the estuary,where we watched some awesome breakers, rolling in….

A fishing boat surrounded by avaricious gulls.

We parted company,back in town and I went to view the history of Portugal,as depicted in the tiles of the Estaco de Sao Bento.
( any excuse to look at trains!)

You can buy any number of “Open Top Bus” tours, but the Andante ticket for three days’ travel on metro and train, was brilliant value.
The Casa de Musica, few stops on the Metro.
The Monumento aos Heroism de Guerra de Penninsular

Later,an Aperitif of Porto Branco,followed by a Fish feast in the Ribeira.
The following morning was largely taken up by a trip on the Cable Car,from the Jardim de Moro down to the Quayside.

Shrove Tuesday is a Festive occasion in Porto,children in fancy dress and we blessed with glorious sunshine,coffee on the Avenue Ramos Pinto.

Final stroll back long the riverbank,admiring the old Rabelos,moored alongside.

Lunch then Metro to the Airport.
A unique city,hospitable and friendly people,without exception.
We’ll be back; got to fit that boat trip in,

Short break in Porto,with Barbara & Hannah.
However,up until the day before departure,there was some doubt about whether I should be fit enough to travel.
Since the removal of the Stents inserted into my kidneys,last month,I had been troubled with bouts of fatigue, shivering and the like.
A self administered course of anti- Biotics seemed to do the trick.
Ironically, the morning of departure found me feeling the best in myself,for a month.
A smooth flight and easy transfer to the City,using Porto’s excellent Metro system.
We alighted at Sao Bento and walked downhill to the apartment in the old part of the city – unless you are on the banks of the Douro,you are usually going up or down a hill – opposite the Igreja San Francisco.
View from the apartment:-

We walked through the Ribeira,in the direction of the wonderful Ponte de D.Luis I; accosted en route , by two ladies,one of whom recognised me from my time as Headteacher at Holy Family School,she taught at St Bernadette’s.Both were sampling Port wine; a very good idea!

We took the Funicular, rather than the “Escadas” and walked across the bridge ,to the Gaia area.

Great views.

Eventually, we found ourselves at the Croft Port Lodge and signed up for a tour and a tasting.
Wonderful ambience and a delightful guide; no hard sell which was just as well, for you would be spoilt for choice.

A glass of a mere five years’old vintage!

We walked along the Cais de Gaia and settled in to a popular little bar,called:-

.
We traversed the Douro again,this time on the lower bridge and found what was to be an excellent restaurant,”Chez Lapin”- featuring a live rabbit in a hutch outside.
Needless to say,Han and I had Roast Rabbit,which was sumptuous and such a large portion,that we brought enough back for lunch,next day.