ensuitepilgrim's Blog

This sculpture greets you as you leave Sao Bento Metro, and walk up the hill to the Cathedral
There is evidence of neglect in this area,lack,of civic money,perhaps,given the current financial problems,but the washing lines,tumble down edges of buildings,enhance the domination of the Se – Porto’s Cathedral – it is authentic.No Vatican-Papal fussiness,nor Wesminster security.Untroubled , welcoming and relaxing

That would not have been the case for those pilloried in the square,centuries ago.

Walking down this ancient lane,behind the Cathedral.

Unfortunately,Our Lady had just popped out for the day,nevertheless our good fortune took us to coffee on the Cais de Ribeira,respite before a recommended visit to Igreja de San Francisco.
The Igreja de São Francisco is the most prominent Gothic monument in Porto, Portugal, being also noted for its outstanding Baroque inner decoration. It is located in the historic centre of the city, declared World Heritage Site by UNESCO. It is a Museum now,rather than a parish church.

it also contains ancient,burial sites,including an ossuary.
The authorities banned in – church burials since 1866.

After lunch,a tram trip along the estuary,where we watched some awesome breakers, rolling in….

A fishing boat surrounded by avaricious gulls.

We parted company,back in town and I went to view the history of Portugal,as depicted in the tiles of the Estaco de Sao Bento.
( any excuse to look at trains!)

You can buy any number of “Open Top Bus” tours, but the Andante ticket for three days’ travel on metro and train, was brilliant value.
The Casa de Musica, few stops on the Metro.
The Monumento aos Heroism de Guerra de Penninsular

Later,an Aperitif of Porto Branco,followed by a Fish feast in the Ribeira.
The following morning was largely taken up by a trip on the Cable Car,from the Jardim de Moro down to the Quayside.

Shrove Tuesday is a Festive occasion in Porto,children in fancy dress and we blessed with glorious sunshine,coffee on the Avenue Ramos Pinto.

Final stroll back long the riverbank,admiring the old Rabelos,moored alongside.

Lunch then Metro to the Airport.
A unique city,hospitable and friendly people,without exception.
We’ll be back; got to fit that boat trip in,

Short break in Porto,with Barbara & Hannah.
However,up until the day before departure,there was some doubt about whether I should be fit enough to travel.
Since the removal of the Stents inserted into my kidneys,last month,I had been troubled with bouts of fatigue, shivering and the like.
A self administered course of anti- Biotics seemed to do the trick.
Ironically, the morning of departure found me feeling the best in myself,for a month.
A smooth flight and easy transfer to the City,using Porto’s excellent Metro system.
We alighted at Sao Bento and walked downhill to the apartment in the old part of the city – unless you are on the banks of the Douro,you are usually going up or down a hill – opposite the Igreja San Francisco.
View from the apartment:-

We walked through the Ribeira,in the direction of the wonderful Ponte de D.Luis I; accosted en route , by two ladies,one of whom recognised me from my time as Headteacher at Holy Family School,she taught at St Bernadette’s.Both were sampling Port wine; a very good idea!

We took the Funicular, rather than the “Escadas” and walked across the bridge ,to the Gaia area.

Great views.

Eventually, we found ourselves at the Croft Port Lodge and signed up for a tour and a tasting.
Wonderful ambience and a delightful guide; no hard sell which was just as well, for you would be spoilt for choice.

A glass of a mere five years’old vintage!

We walked along the Cais de Gaia and settled in to a popular little bar,called:-

.
We traversed the Douro again,this time on the lower bridge and found what was to be an excellent restaurant,”Chez Lapin”- featuring a live rabbit in a hutch outside.
Needless to say,Han and I had Roast Rabbit,which was sumptuous and such a large portion,that we brought enough back for lunch,next day.

“The collective principle asserts that… no society can legitimately call itself civilised if a sick person is denied medical aid because of lack of means.”

—Aneurin Bevan, In Place of Fear, p. 100

Being more house bound than I am used to , leads to different ways of using the time.Eg, 15 minutes of lunchtime news, late breakfasts and even moments of contemplation.
This morning, as I lay awake, summoning the enthusiasm to disentangle myself from my additional tubes and bags,I tried to factor in what the costs of my recent treatments would be , if I was so unfortunate to live in the USA, for example?
Then, as I got to my feet and tentatively walked to the door ( after detaching myself! ),I realised how much better I felt ,compared to the day before.
This might all seem rather prosaic ,but it compelled me to think about “feeling better” and what it can entail.
Taking a visit to hospital,as an example,recently I have made several trips.
I go because , to put it at its simplest, something is wrong with me; I feel worse for wear, a broken bone,a stroke,whatever….
In my experience, and not only recently,invariably ,I shall come home feeling better, though not always immediately.
By ” better”, I am not only referring to the improvement in my physical well- being, but mentally, as well.
This is brought about by witnessing the care and compassion of those who work in the NHS; in A & E, on the wards, in the clinics and theatres.
I have experienced uplifting scenes of demonstrable patience with the elderly; dignity respected.
Tiny acts of kindness that no Tory- Coalition suit would write in to a Job Spec.
Beggar the the thought!
These everyday clement and decent blessings bestowed upon us all.
By witnessing such magnanimity,I am bettered as a person,I hope.

The “uncivilised”, political forces that would seek the disintegration of the NHS,need reminding of another Nye Bevan Bon Mot:-

“The National Health service and the Welfare State have come to be used as interchangeable terms, and in the mouths of some people as terms of reproach. Why this is so it is not difficult to understand, if you view everything from the angle of a strictly individualistic competitive society. A free health service is pure Socialism and as such it is opposed to the hedonism of capitalist society.”

—Aneurin Bevan, In Place of Fear
Where in the current political landslip, is there a figure with such fire, vigour and cogency?
Begging your indulgence….

Just like that!
The only discomfort I felt was the application of ice-cold gel to my back, before the procedure; I was cheerily informed by the staff nurse- I apologised for my strangulated intake of breath.
Every care was taken by the team, everything explained by a very caring and competent staff, in the Angiography Unit.
The consultant radiologist explained to me that the procedure had been both very necessary and a success.
After recovering from the mild sedation, back in the suite,the nurse explained that I had two Urostomy – like bags attached to my lower back, to collect the urine.
These would remain intact and in place for a week,when they would be removed, stitches,too.
The nurse then appeared with two similar bags which were connected to the fixed bags by hose, attached to my legs by extension,enabling me to empty the contents as necessary.
Like walking around with two , low-slung gun holsters!
Four bags now, in addition to my original Urostomy, which for now, seems to be by- passed by new additions.
For the last six months, bedtime has become a familiar routine; attach my bag to a purpose designed ” overnight bag”, which is duly emptied and rinsed every morning – this can contain a night’s worth of up to a litre- too much detail!
However, my new, additional bags only have a 600 mill. capacity.
Logistics would suggest two overnight bags in addition to the regular bag!

Thank goodness it is only for a week.

No big walks this week,exercise probably limited to cooking dinner.
However, can drive from tomorrow; Berkhamsted on Friday.

“I must not fear. Fear is the mind-killer. Fear is the little-death that brings total obliteration. I will face my fear. I will permit it to pass over me and through me. And when it has gone past I will turn the inner eye to see its path. Where the fear has gone there will be nothing. Only I will remain.”
—Frank Herbert, Dune

That’s about as close to a resolution I’m going to make.
Resolutions at this time of year? Not feasible.
Mid June might be a time more sympathetic to achievement.

2014 has passed,thank god and new year begins with more hospital appointments.
Last year averaged almost one a week !
Good news; bad news?
Well, I am off Warfarin, after a call from my consultant, who also informed me that as a result of a recent kidney scan, I should need further treatment of possible , sluggish passing of urine through the conduits ,fashioned during the big op. in July.
I am not to be unduly concerned by this procedure , apparently.
So, presuming there are no problems ascertained during my pre- op. appointment, I go in for the day on 19 th January ,for Percutaneous Nephrostomy.
Sound awful doesn’t it?
However, it only means a local anaesthetic, given in the Angiography suite, followed by an incision to allow a temporary catheter to be attached to the kidney, the other end of which will be attached to a bag to drain off urine.
It is a procedure used to remove kidney stones.
It should only take 20 minutes or so, followed by rest and supervision, hopefully not more than the day itself.

For myself , apart from a seasonal cold, I feel really well most days and have resumed regular walks in the locality, averaging 13 minutes a KM, which is an improvement.
Whether I shall get back to a 12 minute KM, will depend on the amount of walking I can do, in the next months.
I do not intend to let hospital appointments etc; to become a barrier.

“Sometimes I can hear my bones straining under the weight of all the lives I’m not living.”
—Jonathan Safran Foer, Extremely Loud and Incredibly Close

I hope everyone that finds time to read the Blog has a healthy and harmonious new year and if Resolutions have been made, every good wish for their fulfilment.
Thanks as always to my wonderful family,just for being themselves.

Rain has abated.
Number 93 into town,alighting near the Castle, which dominates the city.
After a climb through old lanes and up several flights of steps,the entrance was found and tickets purchased , with a discount for the venerable!
An ancient site, but at its most resplendent during the reign of Maria Theresa.Unfortunately, her taste was not shared by her successors and the castle became neglected and finally burned down in the19th Century.
Latterly it has been faithfully rebuilt and is home to galleries, music hall and governmental facilities.

There is also a permanent exhibition of Slovak in involvement in the First World War.
The views, even on a murky day like this are breathtaking.

The next stage of today’s tour was to descend to the Danube and after a lengthy walk along its banks, take a tram ride, along a tunnel under the castle,back to the Old Town.

A further walk across the city to the EUROVEA GALLERIA part of the state of-the-art multi-functional city quarter EUROVEA which is located on a prime riverside location adjacent to Bratislava’s historical centre.

Jumping on a bus, the Christmas Market was in full swing.

Now time for an early dinner

Uneventful flight home.
We enjoyed the trip immensely,despite the damp at times.
Friendly people,especially the young; older folks a little more reserved.
Great transport systems,including bus, term and trolley bus integrated services.
The Christmas a Market was in proportion to the settings, no overkill, or blagging about being the biggest or best.Hardly an inflated Santa in sight.
We always felt safe,; no exaggerated police presence, anywhere.
Good value for money,especially beer, local wines ( wish they exported here) and hearty food.
It has kindled the prospect of a lengthier tour, in the future.
It is a Cafe Culture City – must be wonderful,sitting outdoors, with such a choice of settings – the coffee is pretty good,too.

I cannot imagine a BBC or Sky News Team lighting the first Advent Candle, during a Live broadcast.But this was the case, here; a reminder that over 80% of Slovakians give their allegiance to the church.

A very wet morning, as forecast.
What should have been a short, bus ride in to Town, turned into a ” Should Have Gone to Specsavers'” scenario, as we missed our stop ( blame steamy windows ) and I suddenly noticed we were speeding across the Danube.
On the Novy Most Bridge!
We alighted ASAP , by a Shopping Mall, on a dual carriageway.
Using a number of pedestrian subways, we returned to a bus stop, where we caught the next bus back across the bridge – joys of independent travel.

Met up with Hannah in the Tourist Office, where she was changing in to a new pair of boots, bought locally; very pleased she was, too, if rather damp.
We took refuge in a wonderful, Viennese style Coffee establishment,” Cafe Mayer”.

Hannah insisted we try the gateaux.

Both coffee and gateaux tasted as good as they looked.
Returning from the Loo, I was taken by this Christmas decoration of their old Well.

Still raining,I took pity on this gentleman and lent him my brolly.

We made our way to St Martin ‘s Cathedral, where Mass was being concelebrated by three priests; it is a three aisles church, originating in the 13th Century.Eleven Hungarian kings had been crowned here,reflecting a little of the chaotic history of the Slovak Republic.
Late Gothic vaulting by Puchspaum and sculpting by the Austrian master,Donner.

We then walked through tiny, cobbled streets across to the Museum of Jewish Culture, where there is a sobering account of the fate of the majority of the longstanding Jewish community, prior to and during the Second World War.

Hannah went back to the hotel and we had Falafel kebabs for a light lunch,
opposite Kostol Trinitarov Church.
After which , the mid afternoon appeal of a warm, dry hotel proved too much and we even managed to alight at the right stop?

An inauspicious start as we had to disembark from the Ryanair plane.
Just before take off, the pilot spotted a warning light.
Returned to starting point and boarded another , identical plane.
Eventually arrived an hour and twenty minutes late.

Booked in to the Mercure Hotel, then a quick taxi ride to the Old Town,
where “El Diabolo” was still serving food,TG.
Great beer and a live singer who made us laugh by murdering a series of classic hits, ranging from the rather inappropriate “In the Summertime”, to “No Woman, No Cry”, encouraged by a group of local girls, who happily danced away. Great vibe , as we say these days.
Bed by 1.30 pm, in a beautiful room.

Sunday, 30 th November

Excellent, unhurried breakfast, then bus 93, to St Michael’s Gate, the only remaining, original gate to the Old Town.

It was 3* in a light drizzle! for most of the day?Unsurprisingly, we were wrapped up in preparation and this did not detract from the enjoyment of walking about this beautiful old quarter.

The Christmas Market was in full swing in the Main Squares; unlike Birmingham’s “Biggest” market, this very traditional market is more locally authentic, with a bewildering choice of regional produce, artefacts, food and drink.
Hannah and I enjoyed a a Cherry Punch.
This was Hannah’s reaction:-

When telling people we were going to Bratislava, sometimes a look of puzzlement would cloud their brows.
Perhaps this T – Shirt encapsulates their reaction.

Festivities continued by the Market, next to the ice rink, on stage,Bratislava’s answer to “Girls Aloud”.

Cultural visit to the Primate’s palace.
The Palace was designed for the Cardinal Joseph Bátthány, Archbishop of Esztergom and Primate of Hungary in 1781, this palace is one of the architectural jewels of Slovakia.

Its pale pink and white exterior is topped with various marble statues and a large cast iron cardinal’s hat. The hat is a symbol of the Archbishop, for whom the palace was built, and of the various cardinals who lived here throughout the years.

It was here on 26th December 1805 in the Hall of Mirrors that Napoleon signed the Pressburg Peace Treaty after being defeated at the Battle of Austerlitz

Today, the palace houses part of the Municipal Museum, and has an excellent collection of 17th century English Tapestries, which were found hidden in the palace.

Fortified by soup and beer in “The Dubliner”, for lunch, some more meandering led to the banks of the Danube.
Rather grey and forbidding, but still a river with so much history.

Back in the historic quarter, twilight descending, eyes upward:-

It was time to return to the Hotel, feet up in readiness for an evening in the highly recommended ,Prasna Basta Restaurant; table booked.

No sun – no moon!
No morn – no noon –
No dawn – no dusk – no proper time of day.
No warmth, no cheerfulness, no healthful ease,
No comfortable feel in any member –
No shade, no shine, no butterflies, no bees,
No fruits, no flowers, no leaves, no birds! –
November!
Thomas Hood

Have to empathise with this seasonal poem.
Had plenty of (dead) leaves, though.
Thought I should catch up, as Bratislava beckons this Saturday and I should hope to write a separate,little travelogue about it.
So, this seems like it is going to be a retrospective Diary, but like walks, you may have a route in mind,but unexpected thoughts, people and other paths usually present irresistible diversions.

Had a flu jab on my birthday and an excellent dinner at LaGrill in Maney,handily situated, opposite the Horse and Jockey Pub.
Hannah was busy making two amazing cakes for the two celebrations.
The ensuing weekend saw the family here for a celebratory meal and a drinks party on the Sunday.
Not before I had persuaded Tom and Dan to clear the garden pond…and their heads.We managed to sever the lead to the pump, but I was able to fix that a couple of days later.
They made a good job and after I had disposed of the overgrown reeds etc. It looked as good as new.

On the subject of leaf clearing,I wore myself out with a major clearance in the garden.
;”And limitless are leaves stiff or drooping in the fields,
And brown ants in the little wells beneath them,
And mossy scabs of the worm fence, heap’d stones, elder, mullein and poke-weed. ” Walt Whitman
“Limitless”- My description at the time would not have been quite so poetic!

The following Monday I had recovered enough to make my first visit to the gym, since before my Chemo treatment in the Spring – defeating a tendency to procrastination in this matter – Really good, light session, followed by the steam room and jacuzzi.
I must mention the cultural highlight of the month, so far.
The cinema to see ” MR Turner”.
For me, the combination of Mike Leigh and Timothy Spall is unbeatable.
Brilliantly shot and acted.

Medical matters included a lengthy session with my GP, to go through DVLA ‘ s questionnaire to him, informing their decision to renew my licence..
( since the Fall, two years ago, this has become an annual bind)
A CT Scan , the results of which I await and the regular Warfarin check up.

There was a very pleasant World Development Group fund raiding dinner on 22 nd , at which I caught up with an ex- colleague and other acquaintances, with usual suggestions about catching up,etc,

Relieved to have gone a month without any infections and to have enjoyed a number of walks,locally, ranging from 4 to 6 miles.
Still some way to go, literally, if I am to enjoy the re planned Caminho, next year.
The first stretch of the Via de la Plata, from Seville to Caceres; most probably the Monday after Easter week, in April.
Mac has promised to come and we would welcome any more Pilgrims, should you be tempted!

Bratislava, here I come….na zdravie.

What a difference a fortnight makes….not to mention some strong anti- Biotics.
Despite the threat of the aftermath of Hurricane Gonzalo, there looked to be a 4-hour rain free window this morning; boots, rainproof, hat and I-Pod – all the kit needed for a walk in the park.

Yesterday was taken up mainly with two hospital appointments.
First with my consultant who spent a good amount of time with us,including an examination of my bits!
All present and correct,apparently, so not due to see him again until next July, which would be a year on from the surgery.
We did ask him about the Warfarin – he is going to set up an appointment with a Haematologist – because it does inhibit certain things,for example, taking anti- inflammatories, which can be helpful at times.
I have a Scan to look forward to, soon, which we hope will show whether the small primary embolism has dissolved – this is a normal , post cancer operation procedure.
The second appointment, later in the day, was at the Anti-coagulant clinic; a quick procedure and a fortnight till next check- up.

And so, gratefully, back to the walk in the Park:-

“I like to walk alone on country paths,
rice plants and wild grasses on both sides,
putting each foot down on the earth
in mindfulness, knowing
that I walk on the wondrous earth.
In such moments, existence is a miraculous
and mysterious reality.

People usually consider walking on water
or in thin air a miracle.
But I think the real miracle
is not to walk either on water or in thin air,
but to walk on earth.
Every day we are engaged in a miracle
which we don’t even recognize:
a blue sky, white clouds, green leaves,
the black, curious eyes of a child–
our own two eyes.
All is a miracle.”
Thich Nhat Hanh, “Miracle of Mindfulness”

Sheer pleasure in simple things, like a pain free walk- inflammatory free!
I seemed to be screened from the strong winds for the most part,especially walking up and above Banners Gate, for a long time one of my training runs, but now I have time to take in the views.

Just a few dog walkers, no bikes, thank God and a good soundtrack of recently acquired music:- Lucinda Williams, Deer Tick, Danny and The Champions of the World….

I planned to have a coffee at the Sutton Park Carvery Pub, by Town Gate; always good service in a friendly environment.
Checked Walkmeter App. to find I had managed 6 miles.
Still sunny as I walked to the town centre to take the bus home.
.

Thanks to everyone for their continued good wishes.