ensuitepilgrim's Blog

From 5th  and up to 10th July. Left Dover for Dunkirk close to midnight.Then onward and around the dreaded Brussels Ring Road,without any delay as it was 3 am! Power nap and breakfast ( traditional cold,coked sausages,hard boiled eggs from home ) on a motorway service station.Continued the journey around 8 am and it was the beginning of a very warm day on the Autobahns as we soon entered Germany ,near Aachen.

After nearly 500 miles we found a lovely campsite not far off the Autobahn in the Swarbische Alb,just North of Ulm. Barbara & Hannah took advantage of their swimming pool and I took advantage of their delightfully situated bar – 

 We don’t usually do Selfies….just as well! 

 Monday and we made our way to Salzburg , still on the Autobahns. It costs 70 cents to use the loos on these , but you get a ticket with 50 cents off the  price of your coffee, which, like the facilities, was far superior and half the price of Rip-Off U.K. We were heading for Slovenia and our second night was spent on the splendid Camping Sobec, near Bled .More swimming, in the lake this time and captivated by the variety of wild birdlife.An evening meal on their terrace,which we thought we deserved  after two days of long haul.The driving had not been a problem and from Salzburg it was very scenic.Temperatures have been as high as 35*.

This was a view from a coffee stop just above Izola en route to Rovinj.  
 Camping Porton Bondi was our pre-planned destination for a week, or so and it is not too big,by Croatian standards; views of Rovinj,across the Bay,to which we walked, along the sea,in fifteen minutes.

Prices are very reasonable as the Pound is as strong against the Croatian Kuna as the Euro. 
 

July 2 nd,2015. A year to the day since the cancer removal surgery and though the above lyric is one of the lighter couplets on Shakey’s new album,I felt it was appropriate to me.More poignantly, I suppose, having spent yesterday in Good Hope Hospital ,undergoing a telescopic inspection of the inside of the Stoma – Nephrostomy Insertion,under general anaesthetic,undertaken by my consultant,MR Ibrahim. All went well apparently, and having been late in to theatre at 3.45,I came to at 5.45 in the Recovery Room,delighted ,to be told by MR Ibrahim that  I need not stay the expected night in hospital. After some delay,Barbara,Hannah & I got home, just after 10pm. 

 So, looking back over the last year in general and this month in particular,I find myself not only in agreement with NY, but on a more spiritual level with these lines,I came across when reading around a debate that never ceases to fascinate – what’s the difference between a Pilgrimage and a Long Walk? – on a simplistic level I have made a long walk since last July, but never alone and with great love, support and encouragement from family and friends.The “Hopitality” has been just that,in every sense.

A 12th century poem sings the praises of the monastery in Roncesvalle and it’s legendary hospitality:

“The door lies open to all, to sick and strong,
Not only to Catholics but to pagans too

Jews, heretics, 

idlers, vagabonds,

In short, to good and bad, sacred and profane.”

The poem is attributed to a monk in a monastery in the Pyrenees. 

Because along with the deconstructing of what makes a Pilgrimage or a Long Walk, comes the debate about identity, entitlement and motive.

And I have been enabled to walk a Camino, in Spain,visited sacred places in the company of all those described above!

  I took this photo in the   Bishop’s Garden in Wells, earlier this month; for me it encapsulates such a breadth of feeling and disturbs as great art should.
The best of all happenings was of course the birth of grandaughter,Martha and she continues to grow more enchanting,everyday. 

 To date , the garden is in order,with a new shrub bed planted last week and the allotment is just about under control; strawberries rule! What they will look like after three weeks or more away in Croatia in the campervan, I don’t want to imagine….

A hectic few days now, A friend’ s Birthday  celebration, then a wedding in Gloucestershire on Saturday 4th; to Dover for Dunkirk on Sunday,5 th.

Hope everyone enjoys their Summer, in their own way…

And to all of us that treasure walking upon the land, these verses from NY, to conclude:-

“IF I DON’T KNOW”

Lyrics to If I Don’t Know

If I don’t know what I’m doin’ 

And all my big ideas fail 

Like build a dam against the water so the river dies 

Veins, the Earth’s blood

And if I don’t know what I’m sayin’
And all the world’s dreams come true

Like finding oil and shooting poison in the ground

Veins, Earth’s blood

And if the melodies stay pretty
And the songs are not too long

I’ll try to find a way to get them back to you

Veins, the Earth’s blood

Best wishes to you from your grateful   EnsuitePilgrimPilgrim…..or Tourist? 

A month or more on from the Camino; better catch up with myself, or I shall forget how to write .

Withdrawal symptoms,if that’s the right term,at first,once over the relief of completing the Walk and returning home.But after a few days they diminished as real time tasks, like the greenhouse, garden & allotment became practical solutions.

Then a momentous moment when baby Martha was born . 

And there were the almost consecutive birthdays of parents,Tom & Vickee,followed closely by older brother, Jude. 

 Very special cake,created by Hannah.

Time then to go for a trip in the “Bus”, as the motorhome is known; so down to Wells in Somerset, where we found a very Special Cathedral and Bishop’s Garden to explore – greeted by a Pilgrim!  

There was also a Farmers’ Market together withCraft Stalls, that amounted to one of the best I have ever seen,here or abroad.Wells is wealthy place, still, and it’s waters still flow from the original source in the Garden, a place of religious practice,since before and including Roman times. 

 We were camped close by the famous Wookey Hole Caves and we walked there one evening, not to go spelunking, but to try the local and only Pub.What a mish- mash that was – stripped down Gastro pub type tables in one area, then the remaining space, festooned with New Age bric a brac, but very badly done. Although the cider was good , the food etc, was very over priced. I felt as though the place was on its uppers.

Must mention the visit of my brother Matt, over from Holland; he and I enjoyed watching the Cricket, together and enjoying suitable liquid accompaniment.

It did not take long for the idea of another Camino to formulate -The Camino Ingles,119 Km in length, from Ferrol to Santiago de Compostela – and in what seemed no time at all, Mac, brother in law, Roger and old friend. Dermot , were signed up.Flights are  booked for the end of September and I have managed to reserve all necessary accommodation, with the help of Booking.Com and a telephone call to one establishment, made by my clever, daughter in law Nelly, in Spanish, whilst she, Dan and our two  nephews were with us, last week-end.During which Dan did the 8.2 Sutton  Fun Run ( now known, as the Great Midlands Run), in 59 minutes.Well done Dan! A really chilly, damp moring for runners and spectators, alike. 

Looking to next month for a Bus trip to Croatia, after ax wedding in Gloucestershire and negotiating an appointment with my Urology Consultant, for the annual review of the surgery undertaken last July. What a year it has been and so fortunate to have been so well treated by our great National Health Service and so well looked after by Barbara and the family.

Babs and I put on our walking gear, yesterday and re- visited an 11 mile walk for Henley- In-Arden to Stratford Upon Avon, mainly along the Canal, in welcome sunshine; that’s the first  “proper” walk since the last Camino and the new boots felt really good, too. The only minor problem  I  encountered , was being stung by the canal side, fortunately , Barbara was on hand to pull out the black sting from the side  of my head; it ached for a while, as far down as my jawbone! Nevertheless …. 

A fortnight since return and have not been on a single walk! Unless you count a stroll along Kings Heath High Street, as a walk, though it was a profitable one because I bought some new walking boots, quite by chance.

I had worn a hole in the heel of one of my current boots; Timpson’s said it was repairable but at a cost approximate to a new pair of boots ; my Hight Street stroll brought me to Oswald Bailey’s , where there was a pre- makeover sale taking place.And there, on the Sales rack was a pair of boots, my size, at exactly the price Timpson’s had quoted for a repair ! 

Cheered me up after the disastrous Election result and post-Camino blues.But what cheered all of us up miles, was the birth of granddaughter Martha, to Vickee and Tom. 

Both very well and feeding times have settled down a little,apparently.Her elder brother,Jude, seems has been very loving and with Dad on paternity leave, has plenty to distract him.

Despite not walking, Ihave been busy at the allotment, hoeing and planting out – several sessions down there – and various garden jobs, both at home & at Tom & Vickee’s.May is both a busy and beautiful month.

http://youtu.be/Qs9PMky7Fj0 for The Watersons singing “Hal en Tow” – Folk  Clubs as I remember them!
And with Summer comes the promise of Cricket and following England’ s ( mis ) fortunes, not forgetting Warwickshire.Looking forward to our day at the Test Match,England versus Australia, at the end of July.

Health wise, nothing amiss and no problems on the Camino; awaiting annual review appointment.

Apart from the Test Match, there are other activities inthe pipeline:-

A tour of Croatia & Slovenia in the Motorhome is planned for July.

Another Camino, The Ingles from Ferrol to Santiago de Compostella, is planned for September; all welcome as it is a relatively short walk  of 110 Km, but it qualifies you, being over 100Km, for a Compostella on arrival at Santiago. 

Most Peleginos regard this as a treasured Souvenir.

Mac And I are  planning Etape II of the Via de la Plata, for next Spring.

As a family, Barbara, Hannah and I are planning a fortnight in South Africa,from January 1st 2016.

And at some point, I shall have to find the time  to break in those  new boots!

  
Hope everyone has a good Summer.

There are many reasons for writing a Blog.When it comes to travel, then recapturing moments, views, people….selecting a photo ( Ithink I took two hundred plus ), is my attempt to encapsulate one of the above.It is not scientific; it is either an  emotional, or a spontaneous selection, from memory and the spur that a photo can provide.

For example, a picture of a herd of contented Black Iberian Pigs, is not an obvious metaphor for Calvary,but that is exactly what greeted us on reaching the summit of a hill by that name…not three crosses. Subjectivity ,why did I like the GumRose, of all the wild flowers, so much? 

 I have tried to list what I took from this Camino….and what I gave.The Solo Pilgrimage I made, last time, was to restore self belief and confidence, after serious illness; it worked , although I did not know that an even greater challenge was to come when Cancer was diagnosed,three months after its completion! Nine months since the surgery, with the encouragement of family and my fellow Pelegrino, Mac,the first Etape of the Via de la Plata has been made.I took a risk, but then a UROSTOMY is only a diversion after all.I took all my preparation with me, the maps , the websites, the training and the relentless re-packing to reduce Rucksack weight.“Life is a journey. When you travel, you live twice.”  

 What did I give? Obviously as a Pelegrino, I gave to the locals…unsolicited tips in bars and cafés; giving more in change than what I paid, for fresh fruit at a local shop.Small instances, these, but a Pilgrim always says ” thank you”.”Muchas Gracias” to all the kindly and hospitable Spanish people, who helped in so many ways,whether responding to requests for  directions,or explaining the intricacies of Gazpacho,Extremaduran style….Muy Bien.I gave my encouragement to fellow Pelegrinos ..”Buen Camino”, many times along  the Way.

Mac was my comrade in arms, literally, helping me on numerous occasions to lift up my rucksack on to my shoulders. 

 Yes, he’s just contemplating his next lift! Mac, of course, knew all the Pilgrims ( happily far more than we expected), we met, by the end of most days; we took a great deal of ,hopefully mutual pleasure, from talking to a fascinating range of walkers:- Jean & Tom from California, for example, he was 72 years young and his wife, 83!On her third marriage,with 25 grandchildren between them. Then there was an occasional meet with a Costa  Rican  and his German wife,taking their beautiful 12 month old son with them.From the sublime to the sublime.We ate , drank and laughed with a Hungarian couple , four convivial, Dutch guys, Italians , Germans,French and Spanish.I remember, by request, translating a Spanish Menu into French for a bewildered couple , from Eastern France.Now, that is a responsibility! Many amusing waiters and one that sticks in the mind reminded us of Marty Feldman,who would double bounce our empty Schweppes Tonic bottles off the table;he rewarded our laughter with free shots of “Acorn Kiss Extremeno ” Liqueur ….Delicious.

A character who impressed us with his unerring ability to find us, most evenings, in whatever bar, square, or restaurant , we found ourselves in, was a Liverpudlian,”Our Kid” as he nominated himself, despite being 68 years old! Found out later, he was called Brian.Although, now living in Bantry Bay,his accent was  unmistakeable .He could beguile you with anecdotes, mostly beginning..”this mate of mine…” and a predilection for the works of Noam Chomsky, who he regarded as a Guru…” 501″ was the title of the Tome he carried with him and apparently it has all the answers. A musical therapist by trade and great company ….in small doses.T G he was a much faster walker than us.“I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me.” Noel Coward.

What was absolutely common across all the Pelegrinos, we were fortunate to meet, was their compassion and their curiosity.And, the major difference between a Package type holiday ( not meant in any disparaging way ) and Walking a Camino is “The traveler sees what he sees; the tourist sees what he has come to see”. – Gilbert K. Chesterton 

   A most rewarding experience for an Ensuitepilgrim; we met youg people who were walking the full 1000Km,sleeping under cagoules , when Albergues were full and seemingly living on biscuits! We were privileged to be able to look forward to our own shower and room; thereby freeing up space in the Albergues! 

 Thanks to everyone for their love , help and support – it was a privilege for us both.Viva Espana……“I have long believed that any man interested in either the mystic or the romantic aspects of life must sooner or later define his attitude concerning Spain.” 

James A. Michener “Iberia” 1968  

We travelled by bus, rather than walk the last leg – not the most uplifting part of the trail; monotonous and flat – also for more time in Caceres. 

Visited Santiago ‘s Church, which was open to visitors and on the Camino, going Northwards.simple but impressive structure and a relief from the usual Baroque overstatement. 

   Toured the old quarter and enjoyed some good Tapas for lunch.

The altar is decorated in honour of Our Lady of the Mountain 

A blessing or a problem,depending on your point of view,that not being near any major airport, possibly limits the numbers of tourists to this city of monuments.The Plaza Mayor is one of my favourites of all the major cities I have visited. 

Finally 

 Despite a good guide, the density of old Palacios and Churches can be overwhelming. 

 On Wednesday morning, the square was host hundreds of Spanish visitors, wearing white necker chiefs,white chef’s hats!Mainly elderly people.Our hotel receptionist was at a loss to explain the occasion.The people gathered in groups and went off to visit the Old City,whilst others took advantage of the shade in the cafés.Convivial atmosphere and live bands played on the steps of the Town Hall. 

   Visited the old Jewish Quarter,Barrio St Antonio,within which was a fort that guarded an important water source for the city. 

   We then visited the Caceres Municipal Museum, which housed the most uninteresting and sparse variety of objects you could imagine; the building itself was the only rewarding aspect. 

 Above is view of the local Allotments bordering the Ribera stream; contrasts with mine!

It pays to keep looking upwards, 

   Storks are one of the city’s emblems; precarious nesting sites on nearly every tower or chimney.

  
A third of this Camino completed, with the possibility of a third stage later this year.Hopefully, the final destination of that stage will be as arresting as Caceres. 

Finally 

Having left the village,we crossed the river. 

 Soon, we entered National Park; most of the trek would be though forests of Oak.What struck me, immediately, was the silence which was only broken by birdsong. 

 We passed only three Pelegrinos during the course of this walk and were glad, given the usual absence of cafés or bars, that we had Boccadillos ” En Levar”, from where we had taken breakfast.

Moving on, we were relieved that there was a fence between us and these …. 

 I had read that there was little on offer at Alcuesar beyond a bunk in the local Monastery( lights out 9 pm ) .After a search, we found lodging at Casa Grande,a grand old house at the top of the village – we were the only guests and the lady who opened it up for us ran the local bar, where we ordered dinner, later that evening. 

O nd We then set off to find the bus stop, from where we were assured, we could take a bus the next morning to Caceres; remember when you ask a “local” , to choose wisely…after several blind alleys, we found the Parada,which turned out to be a 7 minute walk from Casa Grande.After serenading Mac, with some Caminho – related music, on the I-Pad;”One More Cup of Coffee Before I Go to the Valley,Below” by Roger McGuin & Calexico…great cover version.Good night’s sleep and on to Caceres.

Left Merida early, under a rain- threatening sky,bound for Aljucen,a walk of 17 Km.As we approached Lago de Proserpina , the rain began to fall.Quickly covering rucksacks and ourselves, we walked on, into the squall. A view of the lake:- 

 What a contrast to this picture,as I remembered it when We were here 40 years ago on a camping holiday 40* temperature .The campsite looked closed down now  and ramshackle; surprising , considering the attraction of both the Lake and Merida.This is more like how I recalled it…. 

Thankfully, conditions underfoot were good for the most part,except for a short section as we passed through Oak and Cork trees. 

We reached a tiny hamlet,El Carrascalejo and were fortunate to be directed by a friendly local to what passes for the village bar; without his insistence, we should not have opened what appeared to be the door to someone’s house,somewhat reluctantly.Stepping in to a disorganised, dusty room with a wood stove  and a counter,from behind which appeared a kindly lady who made us some coffee; we were grateful for the time out of the rain, which had ceased as we emerged behind the 16 th Century Church,well cared for ,it seemed. 

We soon reached the outskirts of Aljucen, having dodged a local cycle race and MotoCross, which bizarrely enough, seemed to be taking place at the same time! 

Despite the remoteness of these villages, the Camino was well marked with the traditional, yellow Fleches and occasional plaque: 

Our accommodation was Aqua Libera, a set of small apartments,developed in a Roman Style ( the owner is an archaeologist ).An Atrium as you enter, sets the scene and there were Spas and baths available,too.we dried our boots round the pool ( we hope ) 

 There was a spacious suite awaiting us – this little bit of luxury was well timed, considering our wet, morning walk.  Not much danger from Mosquitos at this time of year.http://www.escapadarural.com/casa-rural/badajoz/termas-aqua-libera/fotos. 

Usual,light lunch at local bar, where we met some Pelegrinos for the first time; most of whom were staying at the village Albergue,including Maggie,who had walked 500km on the Camino Mozarbe, from Malaga- a real feat! 

   I thought I might have worked out by now, why I am doing this Camino

.“There are a few minor reasons for walking the Camino, and one compelling reason. I know the minor reasons, I don’t yet know the compelling reason.”

Amen…

Bloodthirsty calls; bread and circuses.Impressive, nevertheless, and free of rampant teenagers pretending to be on an educational visit!

The Ampitheatre never fails to impress. 

 Such an impressive site…sitting there imagining the bellows of the crowd – slaves up top,apparently. 

Dinner ladies’ day out? Can I have the Migas, please? 

View from the Alcazaba, a Moorish Fort. This was their barracks.

After lunch, the Museum – Stunning building and laid out in a way that encouraged your curiosity.  

 Merida is very accessible on foot and considering its  temptations as a city of great ,historical interest,””Tat free” and really friendly.

Paid our respects…… 

  Some showers, this evening; hopefully over by the time we begin our next stage,tomorrow.Out, via this amazing site,past the lake where we had to seek respite from 40 from the sun, 40 years ago…looking forward to seeing it again.