ensuitepilgrim's Blog

The Sanabria Region, is characterised by its rivers, valleys, sierras and mountains, not forgetting its Parque Natural Del Lago De Sanabria”. How come I had never even heard of it, before? Proves again how rich Spain is , in its variety of regions and history. Only 25 km, from Braganza, in Northern Portugal and adjacent to Galicia, for where we are bound over the next two days. 

Its position high on a bend protected by the confluence of the rivers Tera and Castro, made Puebla de Sanabria a strategic site and the scene of a great many battles throughout history.

The town has been recognized as a Historic-Artistic Site. It still preserves most of the walls which once protected the city. Its magnificent castle dates from the second half of the 15th century and is the archetype of a medieval defensive structure; it stands at a height of 960 metres on a wide piece of flat land on top of a hill occupied by the town, it has a regular plan and in the centre it has an enormous keep, which is made up of several storeys and protected by a retractable bridge. Close by the castle is the parish church of Nuestra Señora del Azogue, from the late 12th century. Inside it contains a 13th-century font with figures carved on the front. The town also has a great many ancestral homes and mansions decorated with old coats of arms dotted among its narrow streets, such as the City Hall from the 15th century, which is located in the main square. In addition to having a beautiful historic quarter, this town also enjoys a privileged natural setting, since its township is located near the Lake Sanabria Nature Park. Its calm body of water covers 368 hectares and measures 55 metres in depth, making it the biggest glacial lake in Spain.

A tour of this medieval town was a must and it was onwards and upwards to the Castillo, where € 2.00 gained us entry into an a carefully constructed tour, with a sympathetic eye to detail, including audio-visual features and a proudly preserved latrine – apparently, a luxury at the time. The castle is in an impregnable position and the views do not disappoint, even on a cloudy day.

This is an area where the Iberian Wolf roams and ther e is a great deal,of info. about wildlife in the area .
Needless to say , the pelegrino features, too, along with a knight in arms on the watch.
For  whom the Bell Tolls ?

 Well it was time for coffee, in a boutique pousada called hotel and spa las treixas; even Pelegrinos need some TLC, at times.

The Town has many interesting, little corners and the balconies are strongly featured, along with local artefacts.

The convoy of 24 or more Pelegrinos we encountered earlier , has moved on and we only spied one, today. We have met a higher than usual number of Aussies, some Americans, French , Polish , Irish and Slovakians , not forgetting our German amigos and Stephen. Plan D,tomorrow,  weather permitting, is to walk to  Reqejo. Then a climb to the highest point on the entire Camino, Mt, Pardonelo ; we are due in Lubian , at Casa de Irene, tomorrow night. Entering then some of the most remote areas on the Camino. 

I share this beautiful quotation by Carlos Castaneda from The Teachings of Don Juan: A Yaqui Way of Knowledge. “For me there is only the traveling on paths that have heart, on any path that may have heart, and the only worthwhile challenge is to traverse its full length–and there I travel looking, looking breathlessly.” 

With the exception of the German guys and Stephen, I have not really mentioned our fellow travellers. With only two exceptions, they have all been a pleasure to met and eat  with along the Way. GSOH and a variety of stories, characterised them all, not to mention a gentle, self- deprecation. The only two exceptions , an Australian/ Kiwi couple, who were just a little competitive ; i.e. Getting somewhere first, be it a destination, albergue, or just the bar, seemed to be “raison d’etre”, and in the case of the male of the species, “smartarse” syndrome. But this Blog will finish with a quotation from Ireland.

According to John O’Donahue, an accomplished Irish poet, philosopher and Catholic priest, “…You are joined in an ancient and eternal union with humanity that cuts across all barriers of time, convention, philosophy and definition. When you are blessed with an anam cara, the Irish believe, you have arrived at that most sacred place: home.”

The diference between average temperatures and forecasts , is the actual weather! According to the T V, in the papers and on the Web, we were due some unseasonable weather and so plans B & C were made. We set off towards Mombuey, where we could stop over if necessary. Having made 10 km in good time, we only paused at Hotel Ruta, for coffee and a look at the paper’s weather page,” Tormentos, Ffluvia and Granizos ” were said to be hitting  Galicia presently., P G missing us in Castille/ Leon.

Meanwhile, it was decided that we should walk on towards Palacios de Sanabre and seek accommodation there. A friendly bar owner telephoned the advertised apartmentos, on our behalf; ” Chiuso”, therefore , Plan C came into being as we set off for Puebla de Sanabria, thankfully, in mild,dry weather. After resting in the porch of a remote church, we could see Puebla in the Tera valley.

 Plan C meant that we should be a day early; we found Hostal Raices, where we were due to arrive the next day, hoping to get in for an extra night. I mounted the stone staircase, rang the bell and was greeted by a somewhat , half- crazed, one- toothed senora major, wearing FCB Barcelona slippers ( she did have some other clothes on ); I was not able to get anywhere, but in the meantime, Mac had spotted our two German amigos and they led us to a super place, for the night. Mac was suitably enthroned , there, in Don Carlos V Hotel.

Later, we sampled some of the ” cervezas artesanas”, which took their toll. It was to be our last night with them and Stephen, who the next morning, made an emotional farewell, but not before he had disclosed to us more of his family history, as a descendant of the Courtauld family, famous for Polar exploration and a dynasty, in itself. We took the day very easily, exploring the town and a 1.2 km walk to its famous railway station, to investigate the possibility of a train , onwards, should this cataclysmic weather arrive. About eight trains a day arrive and depart from here, notwithstanding its grandiose appearance, none of which would be much use to us.

 Plan D was to be discussed , next day, 10 th May, meanwhile, we had a good €12.00 dinner and reminisced about Stephen, who, during our last walk, together, had insisted we sang our school song to St Philip – ” This is the Saint of Gentleness and Kindness”-  echoing over the Sierras. We also sang an improvised version of ” To Be a Pilgrim”;  Maddy Prior’s version just shaded ours…

 On the Sanabres, as with any other Camino ,meeting people, is usually interesting and a welcome distraction from the kms, underfoot.
A peaceful,if unremarkable walk; a couple of stiff hills. Relatively overcast, but good walking conditions. We had not progressed very far, before meeting up with our German friends, Helmut and Jorg. Both “senior” to us and steady walkers. 

Almost, immediately, a gaunt figure came alongside, wearing the most unlikely walking apparel – a white jacket, over a black pullover, with tailored black trousers and gentleman’s walking boots. A 30 L rucksack was the only concession to orthodox walking gear and in his right hand, a black bin liner. We were confirming our direction , when we were implored to alleviate the load in the liner – ” I’ve bought far too much food..”

I soon fell into step with Stephen, after a km, or so and realised I was in the company of a most interesting man. His cultured voice reminded you of Bill Nighy and his range of interests were vast. I discovered he was an Old Etonian – ” hated the place” and that opinion extended to those running the country. His step father was a famous , wartime education minister. These two interesting points of information were given in the most self deprecating, throw away style; as were the facts that he had known Leonard Cheshire and worked with Mother Teresa. 

We stopped for a bag break and we were showered with bananas , chocolate and water – at least his load was lightened. We discussed religion, education and politics and our views, for the most part were aligned and we were both grateful for mutual enlightenment on different issues. The kms slipped by and we arrived at a cafe ( thankfully, as you always are on this Camino ) and after a couple of coffees, we realised that Stephen had vanished as suddenly as his appearance…..

Mac and I continued our stage, reaching Casa Anita in good time,still bemused by the “disappearance ” of our new amigo.

Much later in the afternoon, Stephen arrived at the Casa, informing us that he had found a mass being celebrated , which he had enjoyed and had also had a rest in the sun! Fortunately, there was still room for him and he was present at the communal meal, that evening. 

Santa Croya is only separated from its neighbour, Santa Marta , by the River Tera. They are both very tranquil spots,with lots of recreational opportunities.
The latter is Höme to a beautiful Romanesque church and museum, which we were able to visit; at the rear of the church is the oldest,surviving statue of St James, the universal symbol of the Camino.

The morning of the 7 th. saw us bound for Rionegre Del Puente. Walking, at first alongside a ” canal” and on through woodlands.

We rounded the edge of an Embalse, in the direction of Villarreal de Farfon, yet another semi-deserted pueblo. I had read that a couple of ex-missionaries, from South Africa, had renovated an old Finca, to make a small albergue. After a long slog we were pleased to come upon their welcoming sign.
We rang a bell and were given a warm welcome, coffee and biscuits , by Craig. He told us of his thirty years’plus work in India and Zambia, setting up schools, for the poor and mainly shod less children. He had walked a Camino and became inspired to build this refuge from nothing, with his own hands and support of his wife and two daughters. The accommodation and refreshments are all provided on a ” donativo” basis. It was a truly Christian experience to talk with him.
We reached Rionegro Del Puente and found an apartment for the three of us, that being the only alternative to the Albergue! So we remained Ensuite and then spent time on the terrace of Bar Palacios, in the sunshine. The Town has some old bodegas and a fine church square.

Later, before our ” menu Pelegrino “, Stephen began sketching Jorg, Helmut and Mac, with a biro on table napkins. Thankfully, I escaped as the first courses arrived…..and the wine.

Is it the universality of the human experience that is speaking through the work of a truly rounded individual? Well, Stephen would continue to surprise us…

As mentioned in the previous blog, we were at a Camino crossroads, so it was most important to take the correct Camino, the Sanabres, out of  Granja de Moreruela.

We had a good night’s sleep in the Casa Rural,Tico Quico; some interesting artefacts, none more so than the dining room table.

Puente Quintos, over the River Tera, was a highlight en route. The terrain changing to valleys and Oak forests, with hill ranges in the distance. Rain ahead, we managed to get our ponchos on, after scrambling across the AVE line ( not electrified yet! ). The blocks are lying along the track in readiness for the next stage, in its development.

We were booked in at El Roble, hotel, restaurant and bar – very pelegrino friendly – €25.00 a head, including dinner. Ensuite, of course.

Storks are emblematic in Castillo-Leon and are often found on church towers and telegraph gantries.

These two ,old goats ( I know what you’re thinking! ) were shuffling along….sound familiar?

“Undo that verse,
Take away the rhyme,

The meter, the cadence

And even the idea itself.

Adventure the words,

And if anything remains,

that

It will be poetry. ”

– Leon Felipe

His statue dominates the pretty town square. An anti facist poet, born here and led  a colourful life. Apparently, when Che Guavara was arrested, he had seven of Felipe’s poems in his pocket.
I AM LEAVING BECAUSE THE EARTH IS NO LONGER MINE

Because my feet are tired,

My eyes are blind,

My mouth parched

And my body docile and light,

Ready to enter the air.

I am leaving because there are no paths left for me on earth.

I emerged from water, I have lived in blood

And now the Wind awaits to sweep me to the sun…

I emerged from the sea…and I will expire in the flames.

Mac and I had a good, if somewhat complicated journey , to Zamora, from Sutton Coldfield. Margaret, ( Mac’s wife ) took us to Digbeth coach station, at 00.30 – muchas gracias. Coach to Stansted Airport arrived early, in plenty of time to check in the rucksacks and enjoy a bacon buttie. The flight landed early at Asturias airport, enabling us to transfer by airport bus to Oviedo. Where we were in good time to take 3 1/2 hour coach journey to Zamora, from where , we were to recommence our Camino. 

The logistics tallied and we were relieved to get our room at Hotel Rey Don Sancho, in plenty of time to relax before a €9.00 menu at a nearby restaurant,whist watching the European cup game between Real Madrid and Athletico.

The following morning dawned brightly and with a little, cooling breeze, made for good walking conditions en route to Montamarta, our first stop on this 377 km journey to Santiago de Compostela. Along farm tracks, for the most part,we had 19 km to walk, in theory. The outskirts of Zamora, unlike its historic centre, are unprepossessing and we were glad to eventually make Roales de Pan, for our coffee stop. 

We got a “sello” for our Credencials, at the nearby Ayuntiamento and walked on, passing a bemusing set of Papier-mâché sculptures, in a garden.

We were booked in at El Tio Bartolo, the owners of which, also managed the local supermarket and restaurant . We met fellow Pelegrinos, from France, Australia and by remarkable coincidence,Helmut, a German guy we had dinner with , just over year ago, in Zamora. They all made for good company, as we basked in the sunshine, on the lovely patio, drying our washing and drinking beer; we later met up for dinner and enjoyed a super Menu Pelegrino of 3 courses, including more wine than we could finish.

These two amicable ladies are Odette and  Monique; we tempted them to some Tinto Verano, which they enjoyed. I couldn’ t find out the name of the deer, who watched our gathering , doubtless with envy!

The next day, we were off by 08 . 10, to walk to Granja de Moreruela -25 km and no services for 12 km, so we took plenty of water. We passed close by the Emita de la Virgen Del Castillo and the dried up bed of the Ricabayo reservoir. We then passed the ruins of the Castrotofate Castle, which was an important mediaeval place, venue of the Knights of St James’ Order and the old capital of the kingdom of Leon in 1176. Again, the weather was warm, but not as sunny as yesterday. There is the threat of rain, tomorrow, apparently.

We eventually got coffee in Fontanillas de Castro, moving on via Riego Del Camino to Our base for the night, casa Del Tico Quico. Granja is a Camino crossroads – go northwards to Astorga ,to join the Camino Frances, or, as in our case, westwards towards Ourense , on the Camino Sanabres.

After a beer, in the local bar, we returned to Tico Quico, to enjoy the garden, before returning later, for another , we hope, bargain dinner – no choice, as it is the only restaurant in town! 

Today’s classic Camino track had to be ” One More Cup of Coffee Before I Go”, by Roger McGuin and Calexico.
https://youtu.be/nOZrTkBghjo. From the movie “I’m Not There”; we’re here, in Leon- Castille, taking delight in these quirky, unspoilt pueblos .

TILE MUSEUMThe art of the azulejo

Tile Museum Despite its somewhat out-of-the-way location, this delightful museum is well worth a visit, presenting five centuries of decorative ceramic tiles or azulejos, tracing the history and production of the art form. 

Its collection is the only of its kind in the world, and contains a splendid array of tiles from as early as the 15th century along with displays on how they’re made. It is housed in the monastic buildings of the Madre de Deus Convent, which after renovation following the Great Earthquake had its interior turned into one of the most magnificent in the city. The splendor and opulence of the chapel dedicated to St. Anthony and the chapter house is particularly impressive. Noteworthy amid the rich decoration are panels in the ceiling with gilt frames set with paintings, Madre de Deus Convent including portraits of King João III and his queen, Catherine of Austria. Several other glorious paintings in the church depict the life of saints, and filling the main vault are scenes from the Life of the Virgin. 
The highlight of the museum is a blue and white composition of 1300 tiles, 23m (75ft) in length, of Lisbon’s cityscape made in 1738, prior to the Great Earthquake, and reputedly the country’s longest tile piece. 

My preferences were the tiles from 15-16th century, patterns of Moorish origin. Hard to pick a favourite.
Worth seeing in large scale!
Extremely informative audio-visual presentations – giving the climatic, cultural and economic context to the prevalence of tiles in Portuguese history and its empire. Being a poor country, the use of clay decoration was affordable, durable and available. 

The church soon integrated tiles into church decoration and biblical themes abounded – I found these to be of less interest, notwithstanding the craftsmanship involved – it was realised , too, that tiles withstood extremes of climate unlike tapestries and portraits . 
I shall just include a couple more favourites.

The church is ornately decorated and the Chapter, too, is beautifully preserved. This being a Sunday morning, meant that it was possible to have the rooms to yourself, at times. We first visited this museum 12 years ago and loved it,thedisplays have been enhanced since then. A Lisbon highlight.

Beautiful garden for coffee and…..
 
Should mention that we made our own travel arrangements and stayed in an Airbnb apartment in the old Alfama district.

Lisbon needs longer than four days , but we packed in a great deal; good transport systems, trams, buses, Metro and trains. Except for the waterfront, it is very hilly, but that is more than compensated for, by rewarding , great viewpoints. For a capital city, it is not expensive to enjoy great food and drink- which we did,particularly the seafood. We were blessed with sunny weather and benign temperatures, that helped as we walked 32 miles, over the four days , according to my daughter, Hannah and I must credit her, too, as the photographer in chief on this hugely enjoyable city break.

Dawn over the River Tejo; Belem, a tram , or bus ride alongside the river’s banks was to be, literally, our first port of call.Belem , from its ancient harbours,many voyages of discovery were made. It developed, too, as a place for those who could afford it, to escape the noise and squalor of the city. It still retains its genteel appeal. There are many sites and sights to see  here. The Padrao Aos Decobrimento – projecting out to sea. The Grand Mosteiro de Geronimus and the Palace. Slightly further along is the Torre de Belem.
And to assist recovery after all this exploration ? A Pasteis de Belem….or two .

It was on the return journey, that I spotted the Mercado de Ribera in time for us to disembark and have lunch in a huge hall , with 35 or more different food outlets – it is reputed to be Lisbon’s No.1 tourist attraction , opened in 2014; 1 million visitors a year. Not a place for a relaxing meal, we enjoyed those elsewhere, but great fun. TIP – get your seats before you order your food.

Bon Apetite! 

Then some of us went shopping and one of us found the British Bar, to watch the rugby, with a restorative, or two.

Friday morning, as we set off on the train journey to Sintra, from Rossi Station, I am wondering if it will be very busy, as even this early in March,the train is packed with tourists. On arrival, I was dismayed by the number of touts outside the station, offering all manner of tours, from Tuktuks and taxis to minibuses and more. It would give the unsuspecting tourist the impression that it was not possible to be self- reliant. After a calming coffee, in a tasteful little cafe, the initial crowd had dispersed and we were able to make our way round to the National Palace, on foot, would you believe, in glorious sunshine , tempered by a cooling breeze…one of the reasons the rich and royalty came up here.

We bought a ticket for the three destinations we wanted to visit – the National Palace, the Moorish Castle and the Pena Palace. On entering our first setting, my fears about crowds evaporated. We were able to view all the wonderful rooms, without any problem. See the selection, above.

Entrancing portrait of the greatest New Testament hero -John the Baptist.

One of the most striking features of the Palace are the two, white conical chimneys,

built over the kitchen. The next destination was the Moorish castle and the easiest and cheapest way of getting up there is by the local bus service, which for € 5.50, allowed you to get hop on and off at each destination. So be it.

The ruinous castle was built in the ninth century and within its walls are traces of occupation there, going back five thousand years , including a necropolis and seed/ vegetable silos. It offers majestic views from its forested, mountainous setting.

On such a sunny day, the vistas are remarkable.

Finally, the Pena Palace; Ferdinand II’s ultimate folly , built with his own money and for the best of intentions , as his political influence in Portuguese politics was minimal ; his artistic influence was maximised in his sponsoring of the Arts and his own idiosyncratic tastes – if Disney had been around, it would have thrilled him. It amused and amazed us .

A 19 th century Romantacist edifice, partly adjacent to a former monastery, whose cells, Ferdinand redeveloped, along with a complex addition – the new palace . Hence the seemingly disparate , external paintwork. It’s a flamboyant complex and all the more striking in that it contrasts so vividly with the surrounding greenery of the forest.

You might think that it was no wonder the Portuguese people got rid of the monarchy; they seemed to have lost touch with reality. Still Lord Byron loved it and so did we.

O

With its rippling mountains, dewy forests thick with ferns and lichen, exotic gardens and glittering palaces, Sintra is like a page torn from a fairy tale. Its Unesco World Heritage–listed centre, Sintra-Vila, is dotted with pastel-hued manors folded into luxuriant hills that roll down to the blue Atlantic.
Celts worshipped their moon god here, the Moors built a precipitous castle, and 18th-century Portuguese royals swanned around its dreamy gardens. Even Lord Byron waxed lyrical about Sintra’s charms: ‘Lo! Cintra’s glorious Eden intervenes, in variegated maze of mount and glen’, which inspired his epic poem Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage.

You should view Sintra as a cultural landscape and would need three days to be appreciated in its entirety. We only had a day….

4 am wake up, 7 am flight from Birmingham and a. Long, hot, sunny day , mainly in the Alfama district; one of the atmospheric and at times, bewildering parts of this great city.

Walked over 8 miles, taking in the See ( cathedral ), various squares, small travessas and becos.
The castle was a popular spot and is a useful fixed point for a walkabout.
The Portas de Sol made for a wonderful vista of the  Tejo estuary.

As is so often the case, signs for the Camino were apparent. Not solely for Santiago, but for Fatima, too. A welcome drink was taken by this attractive mural.

We soon realised that the standard , tourist map was inadequate for this area, as such is its warrenlike character, many names could not be listed. Nevertheless, not to be daunted, axway bak to the AirBnB was eventually found – when in doubt, ask a local!

The traditional tiles were to be seen everywhere; almost as numerous as the cobblestones. And a perfect end to the day was found in a nearby restaurant, after we had had a drink in a place specialising in the Fado, the much vaunted , if at times incomprehensible music. I was intrigued by one of the instruments being played- a crossover between a guitar and a banjo, which produced a mellow accompaniment. Almost as enjoyable as dinner, with a jug of wine at  € 2.80. Perfect accompaniment to grilled Turbot; uma boa refeição.