A CORUNA – The Last Saunter up to Monte San Pedro Park – Fri.19/09, and Remembering Rosalia de Castro.

20 Sep

“I see my path, but I don’t know where it leads. Not knowing where I’m going is what inspires me to travel it.”Rosalia de Castro

The destination is bottom left hand side, starting beyond the beach.
Monte de San Pedro is top right.
A very calm sea this morning.
Leaving the beach behind we came upon the Obelisco Milenium.

The Millennium Tower is a monument built in the shape of an obelisk and located on the seafront of A Coruña. This tower was inaugurated on January 1, 2000, as the objective of this work was and is to commemorate the beginning of the 21st century. 
This 
Obelisk , which was born under the mantle of 
the Tower of Hercules and the 
Obelisk of the Cantones , reference works of A Coruña, is the work of the architect 
Antonio Desmonts , and the drawings that decorate it are made by the author 
Gerardo Porto . 
The construction of the 
Millennium Tower was not easy, since the work 
measures approximately 50 meters and is made up of more than 
170 rock crystals that arrived in the city of A Coruña from Holland. 

Furthermore, thanks to its drawings, this monument depicts different 
historical scenes from the city of A Coruña, including, for example, images of 
Christopher Columbus’s caravels , the 
Battle of Elviña , and, of course, the portrait of the city’s heroine: 
María Pita . 

This obelisk is also unique in that it houses more than 
140 spotlights , allowing visitors to discover the unique features of all the drawings depicted there at night.
A close up.

There is a funicular running up the mountainside but it was not operative and so we turned right and walked up along a shady pathway.

Opposite the path.

There were welcome drinking water fountains en route.

Climbing up above the new apartments.

This park was formerly a defensive point converted for the enjoyment of citizens and tourists since 1999. It has an extension of more than 90,000 square meters where you can do all kinds of hobbies. You can fly a kite, lie on the grass or watch the sunset. In addition, it has a great tourist attraction which are the two Vickers pieces of more than 17 meters of altitude that were acquired in 1929 and installed in 1933, made in the UK.
They were used on one occasion to deter German submarines.

But one of the main attractions of Monte de San Pedro are its evocative views. On one side you will see the Atlantic Ocean and the coastline to Arteixo and the Sisargas Islands that belong to Malpica de Bergantiños. And on the other side in the first term, the city and the Costa Artabra with the Ría de A Coruña, where we will find Mera, Santa Cruz and the coast of Oleiros and in the second term the Ría de Betanzos, the Ría de Ares, the Ría de Ferrol and the coast up to its outer harbour.
Viewpoint looking towards A Coruna.

Once at the top you will also find the only 360-degree covered viewpoint in Spain, the Cúpula Atlántica.
It was well worth the climb upwards and downwards.
On a counter in a cafe on the way back – Membrillo!
The paseo returning to the town.
This is the Rosalia de Castro Theatre just a few metres from our apartment .

Rosalia De Castro was a highly acclaimed and influential Galician writer and poet. Born on February 24, 1837, in Santiago de Compostela, Spain, she played a pivotal role in the revival of Galician literature and language during the 19th century.
Her works were praised for their lyricism, emotional depth, and ability to capture the essence of Galician culture. Through her writing, De Castro sought to raise awareness about the social inequalities and injustices faced by the Galician people, as well as celebrate their unique language, customs, and folklore.

A remarkable woman with a strong social conscience, de Castro’s antecedents were probably influential in predisposing her to identify with her poor and exploited countrymen. She was the illegitimate daughter of a priest. Her mother came from a well-to-do family, but de Castro spent the first 14 years of her life in the country. When she was 14, de Castro was ‘reclaimed’ by her mother.  She missed her country life intensely and no doubt her poems grew out of her feeling of longing and homesickness for the countryside, and the only home she had ever known until  she was displaced.  The sense of  something longed for and unfulfilled in these poems is so honest and sincere and uncontrived, that to read them is to almost directly experience them  oneself.
I suspect it was de Castro’s fervour and intensity which led to the her being able to accomplish as much as she did in a relatively short life. She died of Cancer at the age of 48. It seems clear that de Castro had a premonition she would not live long, and this sense of life’s brevity and fragility lends the keenest possible edge to her writing. We are blessed indeed to be her literary beneficiaries and to be able to relish her remarkable work, and through them to hear her lovely voice.

The first time I was made aware of Rosalia and her legacy was on a solo pilgrimage from Porto, 15 years ago when my hotel in Padron was next door to a museum dedicated to her life. Every city and town in Galicia will have at least a street with her name.

Good-bye Rivers, Good-bye Fountains.


Good-bye rivers, good-bye fountains;
Good-bye, little rills;
Good-bye, sight of my eyes:
Don’t know when we’ll see each other again.
Sod of mine, sod of mine,
Sod where I was raised,
Small orchard I love so,
Dear fig trees that I planted,
Meadows, streams, groves,
Stands of pine waved by the wind,

Little chirping birds,
Darling cottage of my joy,
Mill in the chestnut wood,
Clear nights of brilliant moonlight,
Cherished ringing bells
Of the tiny parish church,
Blackberries in the brambles
That I used to give my love,
Narrow footpaths through the cornfields,
Good-bye, for ever good-bye!
Good-bye, heaven! Good-bye, happiness!
I leave the house of my birth,
I leave the hamlet that I know
For a world I haven’t seen!
I leave friends for strangers,

I leave the lowland for the sea,
I leave, in short, what I well love…
Would I didn’t have to go!
But I’m poor and—base sin!—
My sod is not my own
For even the shoulder of the road
Is loaned out to the wayfarer
Who was born star-crossed.
I must therefore leave you,
Small orchard I loved so,
Beloved fireplace of home,
Dear trees that I planted,
Favourite spring of the livestock.

Good-bye, good-bye, I’m leaving,
Hallowed blades of grass in the churchyard
Where my father lies buried,
Saintly blades of grass I kissed so much,
Dear land that brought us up.
Good-bye Virgin of the Assumption
White as a seraph,
I carry you in my heart:
Plead with God on my behalf,
Virgin of the Assumption mine,
Far, very far away hear
The church bells of Pomar;
For hapless me—alas—
They shall never ring again.
Hear them still farther away
Every peal deals out pain,
I part alone without a friend…
Good-bye land of mine, good-bye!
Farewell to you too, little darling…!
Farewell forever perhaps…!
I send you this farewell crying
From the precious coastline.
Don’t forget me, little darling,
If I should die of loneliness…
So many leagues offshore…
My dear house! My home!
A poem by Rosalia de Castro

A CORUNA – Thursday, 18 th September Walkabout – monuments,flora and views.

19 Sep
This was the area we intended to cover.
Misty morning up at the Tower of Hercules. It began to clear later on in the morning.
Rocky coves and outlying rock formations make you realise why a lighthouse was built all those centuries ago .
The Tower of Hercules is the only fully preserved Roman lighthouse that is still used for maritime signaling, hence it is testimony to the elaborate system of navigation in antiquity and it provides an understanding of the Atlantic sea route in Western Europe. The Tower of Hercules was restored in the 18th century in an exemplary manner, which has protected the central core of the original Roman monument while restoring its technical functions.
Criterion (iii): The Tower of Hercules is testimony to the use of lighthouses in antiquity. The Tower is also proof of the continuity of the Atlantic route from when it was first organised by the Romans, during a large part of the Middle Ages, and through to its considerable development in the modern and contemporary eras.
Integrity and Authenticity
The architectural integrity of the property, in the sense of a structurally complete building, and its functional integrity are satisfactory. While the authenticity of the central Roman core is certain, the authenticity of the building only makes sense when judged from the point of view of a technological property that has required numerous renovations and functional adaptations.
The area around the lighthouse is protected though very accessible.
A customs patrol boat – drug smuggling is a problem.
Looking back at the town.
A narrow stretch of sandy beach.
Here he is – Hercules afloat.
During the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939), this was the site of a Muslim cemetery for soldiers from the Maghreb. Their remains were later moved to the San Amaro Cemetery, and although they were repatriated in 1957, a commemorative plaque can still be seen there. Today, the walls are adorned with texts referring to the city, in Latin, Greek, Arabic, Gaelic and old Spanish, which is why we now call it the House of Words.
Traditional Layout.
Pleasant,winding walk back to the beach
An exotic tree en route
A sudden swathe of mist across the beach.
Walking back to the main square we came across the church of San Jorge.
Sense of humour – good news for anyone with a baby giraffe.
Tinto Verano – Always good news.
A view of one of the towers from our dinner table .
In the square were a whole range of electric powered cars – someone must have thought that a Galician pipe band would encourage sales.
Cars came through this arch,after a brief commentary and were further accompanied by flashing lights and exhalations of steam!
And it was goodnight from us.

The name A Coruña is derived from the Phoenician ‘k . arn, meaning ‘the horn’, symbolizing its geographical prominence A CORUNA – Tuesday,16th September ‘25

17 Sep

“In Coruña, people sit around on the sea walls or the rocks and stare out to sea, as if they expect Francis Drake to turn up again and sack the city. A contemplative lot, the Galicians”. 

THE OLD TOWN

After obtaining maps from the Turismo in the Praza Maria Pita, the walkabout began by the imposing statue of the city’s most loved historical figure,Maria Pita,symbol of the defence of the citizens of Coruna against the attack by the English in 1589.


It is said that the English attackers opened a breach in the wall and began the assault on the old city. During the assault, they killed Gregorio de Rocamunde, María Pita’s husband; she, filled with rage, snatched the lance from the English flag and, with it, killed the ensign leading the assault. He was the brother of Admiral Francis Drake.
This demoralized the 12,000-strong English force and forced its retreat. Tradition says this was carried out to the cry (in Galician) of ” 
Quen teña honra, que me siga” (which in Spanish means “whoever has honor, follow me”).)
The next stop was at the house and museum of Maria Pita
The building has been completely restored by an inventive use of mezzanine floors.
Bedroom
Kitchen
Statuette
Views from the rooftop of the house.
Praza das Barbaras
The convent on this leafy square was founded in the 14th century and was later incorporated into the Franciscan order. The nuns are cloistered and there contact with the rest of humanity is through this hatch
Where you can buy confectionery
A cooling fountain en route to the Garden of San Carlos.
There seemed to be flowers and shrubbery at every turn.
The site once contained a stronghold built outside the city walls during the 14 th century and annexed to the city in the 16th century. It gradually became less important as a fortress and when its arsenal exploded,killing 200 people, it was abandoned until it was restored in the 18 th century as a garden .
It is divided into segments containing plants, trees and flowers from all the world’s continents

The garden of San Carlos is one of the most unique green spaces in A Coruña.  It is a “hortus conclusus” created around the grave of the general Sir John Moore, Hero of the Battle of Elviña, who died in 1809.
In 1830, at the initiative of the British Government, a stone funeral chest dedicated to General Moore was erected on the site, and in 1834, Governor Francisco Marracedo transformed the grounds once again by creating an enclosed garden sheltered from the winds.  The project, carried out by the local architect José María de Noya, created an oval space crossed by a set of radial paths starting from the centre, where the grave is located.  The vegetation is distributed in flowerbeds, where there are several monumental centenary elm trees, currently included in the catalogue of singular trees of Galicia.
The garden still preserves elements of the old fortress, such as the sentry boxes and the wall, and has a spectacular viewpoint overlooking the city’s port.
The church of Santiago,probably the oldest of the many churches in Coruña.
The tympanum depicts St James on horseback
St James
The beginning of the Camino Ingles adjacent to the church.
Traditional Camino waymarking.
Coffee time and deciding where next.
The renowned Galleries of glass facing the port.
Fishing boat for sale
A P & O Cruise ship dominates …
Impressive monument
Mary,patron of fishermen
A stroll along the seafront- the Paseo Maritimo – in glorious weather.
Praia de Santo Amaro –
The sea looked very inviting.
A surfing spectacular
Mermaid?
Walking further along – the site of Corona’s most famous landmark.
Mini Stonehenge?
Captions invited
THE TOWER OF HERCULES

The Tower of Hercules has served as a lighthouse and landmark at the entrance of La Coruña harbour in north-western Spain since the late 1st century A.D. when the Romans built the Farum Brigantium. The Tower, built on a 57 metre high rock, rises a further 55 metres, of which 34 metres correspond to the Roman masonry and 21 meters to the restoration directed by architect Eustaquio Giannini in the 18th century, who augmented the Roman core with two octagonal forms. Immediately adjacent to the base of the Tower, is a small rectangular Roman building. The site also features a sculpture park, the Monte dos Bicos rock carvings from the Iron Age and a Muslim cemetery. The Roman foundations of the building were revealed in excavations conducted in the 1990s. Many legends from the Middle Ages to the 19th century surround the Tower of Hercules, which is unique as it is the only lighthouse of Greco-Roman antiquity to have retained a measure of structural integrity and functional continuity.

The walkabout was about nine miles in total and there are still plenty of things to see…on another day. A Coruna is fast becoming my favourite of all the Spanish cities visited over the many years of visiting Spain.

One of the town hall towers
Dinner time starting with Padron Peppers and a bottle of ALBARINHO

SUNDAY BEGINS WITH A WALK UPSTREAM ALONGSIDE THE DUERO

14 Sep
Restored Mill on the edge of the Medieval bridge.

The Douro (UK: /ˈdʊəroʊ, ˈdʊəruː/, US: /ˈdɔːruː, ˈdɔːroʊ/,[1][2][3][4] Portuguese: [ˈdo(w)ɾu], Mirandese: [ˈdowɾʊ]; Spanish: Duero [ˈdweɾo]; Latin: Durius) is the largest river of the Iberian Peninsula by discharge. It rises near Duruelo de la Sierra in the Spanish province of Soria, meanders briefly south, then flows generally west through the northern part of the Meseta Central in Castile and León into northern Portugal. Its largest tributary (carrying more water than the Douro at their confluence) is the right-bank Esla.[5] The Douro flows into the Atlantic Ocean at Porto, the second largest city of Portugal.
We crossed the bridge and turned right,walking upto the “ Palace Gardens”,continuing along the Paseo Juana I de Castilla. The pavement turned to a dirt trail just beyond the Monasterio de Santa Clara.
The monastery has a fascinating history.
The monastery of the Poor Clares of Tordesillas has its origin in a palace built by Alfonso XI of Castile to commemorate the Battle of the Salado River (1340), where Leonor de Guzmán (1310-1351), the king’s lover, resided. Once she died, it passed into the hands of the widowed queen Maria of Portugal (1313-1357), and finally it was the property of Maria de Padilla († 1361), lover of Pedro I the Cruel (1334-1369). In 1362, Peter I left the palace to the Poor Clares in his will, with the aim of establishing a new monastery for that order. The convent was founded by Infanta Beatriz of Castile in 1363 with royal approval and a papal bull authorizing it in 1365. Despite this change, which meant the conversion of the royal palace into a convent, the monastery remained closely linked to the crown. A new palace was built next to it, and the monarchs remained closely associated with Tordesillas, favoring the community.
For the new functions of the house, the palace was adapted as a monastery using a temporary chapel (the Long Choir) until the monastic church was built next to it in the late 14th and early 15th centuries. During this same period, the house underwent reforms in terms of observance, introducing stricter rules and eventually forming a congregation that enjoyed a certain independence, until, at the beginning of the 16th century, it was incorporated into the regular observance of the Order of the Poor Clares. In 1509, Queen Joanna I of Castile (Joanna the Mad) was confined to the monastery palace, where she remained, practically isolated, until her death in 1555.
It was a monastery with a very large community thanks to royal patronage, which also made it possible to avoid the effects of the confiscations, nor did it suffer the effects of the French occupation in 1808. Overall, it is a construction with decorative elements in the Mudejar style, despite the modifications made to the original palace to adapt it as a monastic house and the successive reforms that were carried out, the complex preserves many ancient elements and a large and valuable furniture, which thanks to its unique protection characteristics, have been able to be preserved.
Looking back downstream to Tordesillas.
KM marker posts at every Kilometre .
A typical section of the pathway with river to the right.
The reflection of the A VI as we passed beneath.
The river seems much fuller and deeper than at Tordesillas. After a while we retraced our steps…
On the edge of town.
We made our way back through the riverside cafe where had a drink the other night and it was packed with locals,still celebrating the Fiesta,red is the chosen colour.

Fairs and festivals on the occasion of the Day of the Virgen de la Guía, patron saint of the town. The date varies depending on the day of the week when September 8th falls
The Festivities always start on a Saturday with the “Lantern Parade”, in which the clubs compete to see who carries the most original lantern. The following Tuesday the famous “Toro de la Vega” takes place, declared of Regional Tourist Interest, being one of the most traditional bullfighting celebrations within the national panorama. –
Four of these on the go at the Tordeplaya, with a long line of tables bedecked in red paper table tops.

Another bullish evening in Tordesillas.

Great grills at the campsite restaurant
A great place – hopefully we’ll be back. Tomorrow we drive northbound to A Coruna.

TORDESILLAS “ A PLACE OF PRIVILEGE AND A LOT OF BULLS”

13 Sep

You meet him just after you cross the bridge into the town.

Friday, 12th and Saturday 13th September 2025

Towards the end of yesterday’s journey, a passing car driver pointed to the front of the car,indicating a problem. This morning ,after perusing underneath the car,I noticed some sort of rubber flap hanging down from below engine. Campsite Reception were really helpful,ringing their reliable and much used garage – unfortunately they were closed – shut down for a holiday! Therefore it meant a phone call to the breakdown service who after a lengthy discussion,promised a mechanic would be on site within 90 minutes.

We moved the car to the front of the site,in the car park hoping this would make it more accessible than by the bungalow.
In the shade,too.

It took 3 hours before a mechanic came and “ sort of sorted it”. He jacked the car up and unscrewed a kind of rubberised tray from underneath the engine . He assured us that it would not affect the engine and to continue driving and to get it fixed back in the UK….So be it.

Strolled then into Tordesillas to the Dia supermarket and enjoyed the different experience of shopping abroad – especially pleasant was the lady behind the vast butcher’s stall who cut me up some beloved Morcilla sausage. Other goodies included some aioli and a jar of interesting flavouring for meat and salads, lime and chilli, and the wine,of course.

Morcilla de Burgos

A couple of interesting sights on the way back.

Calling on his neighbour on horseback
A group of sisters sharing a picnic on the side of the River Duero.
Blog writing time at the Bungalow,excuse my back

Relaxation time at the pool
Bar Playa for an aperitif with a river view
Table service with tasty bowls of nibbles,Muy buen..

SATURDAY 13 th SEPTEMBER

After breakfast a walk back to town across the bridge.

The remains of a mill below one of the bridge arches.
Various walks from here.
Riverside ramble

Back, up into the town via the bull ring .

As it was…
As it is now…
This is where they tether the bulls .
This is Matador’s playground
Walking towards the main square
Thank god there are none of those b…..St George Crosses…..there is a a
a fiesta taking place .
A corner of the square

A load of old bull…Still a big deal hereabouts.

FAROLES
History tells us that the tradition of such an important time for the people of Tordesillas originates from the guard patrol that used to take place on the ancient walls or fortifications. Like stars that make way through the crowd, this is how the Tordesillas lanterns shine. Authentic moving works of art that portray moments, events, or personalities that marked a before and after in the lives of the town’s inhabitants, years ago or in the immediate future.
Street Art
A view from the old walls
Leading to the Paseo Juana I de Castilla
A Walk Through History, the events that marked the life of Joanna I of Castile and the importance of the Treaty of Tordesillas.
46 years she spent in the Royal Palace, her life and her fate.
And the Treaty that would determine the current configuration of America, which, 531 years later, is still alive.


The two most significant historical events in the town.
Queen Joanna I of Castile arrived in Tordesillas in 1509, remaining for 46 years in the Royal Palace ordered to be built by her great-grandfather Henry III in 1400.
This area also recalls the negotiations and consequences of the Treaty of Tordesillas, signed here on June 7, 1494, between ambassadors and cartographic experts sent by Isabella I of Castile and John II of Portugal.
The Treaty with its Meridian divisions
Many fine churches
Note the old tiled roof

BACK ON THE ROAD AGAIN….

12 Sep

Over five years since I said farewell to the motorhome and since then, Covid apart,wanderlust has been restricted to Caminos, packages and self organised breaks abroad. Losing the “ bus” felt like a bereavement at the time and one of the biggest losses was driving in Europe, especially Spain.

So it was greed that the car would be the substitute and Brittany Ferries was booked as long ago as January for a driving holiday in Northern Spain.

From Plymouth to Santander and then a drive down to Tordesillas ( near Valladolid), a town visited on several occasions over the last thirty years,usually as a stopover enroute to Portugal or Southern Spain. Camping L’Astral – It’s a gem of a place by the river – not an all singing/ all dancing kind of site.. A pool, a garden,a bar and restaurant and only a walk over the nearby medieval bridge into town.

The second half of the trip is to be in  A Coruna, a city I have long wanted to explore – this time in an Airbnb.

After five years non-motoring, you have to catch up with new requirements in Europe. One of the countless non- benefits of Brexit is the necessity for a UK sticker in the rear window, despite having a perfectly accessible GB sticker; at least it did not have the blemished St George’ s Cross on it.

Three high vis vests and two warning triangles makes sense.

After much fruitful research a list of “ things to do “ – “ SEE IT, SAY IT, DO IT” as they don’t say on the train – distances worked out, weather forecasts taken and books to read stored,it was time to go.

Wednesday 10 th September and the 15.45 crossing from Plymouth to Santander,after a 3 3/4 hours drive, the last hour in pouring rain , the maritime harbour was reached without incident. Although less hassle than Dover has become, there was still an hour and a half before embarking. There were a considerable number of Porsches of all types and sizes together with a range of classic sports cars – an interesting contrast – and I spotted my long time favourite….a yellow and black TR 4.

1964 TR 4

Once on board it was just a matter of locating the cabin from Deck 4 upto deck 8. Working out the bunks took  a while then all was set – clever shower/ loo cubicle,too.

The only off-putting thing was the “ entertainment “ operating even At 14.30 in the main lounge – a screechy singer and long queue for the bar. Fortunately, the self service restaurant area had a pleasant sea view lounge attached and after a gang of Bristol Girls’ Bikers left, it was a tranquil enough spot to wind done and enjoy the seascapes. 

THE INTERIOR

Overnight,the bunk beds and pillows were very comfortable and by 08.30 back to the self- serve lounge for breakfast. A full English, toast and two mugs of Earl Grey was great value at €09.00. The other early partakers of breakfast were mainly bikers which took me back to a previous Brittany Ferries crossing a few years back which coincided with Hannah’s birthday. As she opened her cards and presents a row of bikers adjacent to our table broke into a hearty rendition of “ Happy Birthday “ !

The only bugbear was the WiFi . You can have 90 minutes free once on the journey and then there were a number of packages you could pay for – Hannah paid for a spell this morning and found that it was as slow as the “ free” package.

There is no Roaming signal out here on the ocean and so time passed watching the waves – no whales spotted yet – and reading.

APPROACHING SANTANDER

Maybe it was because I only spotted one other ship in the mighty Bay of Biscay that I became interested in this unusual cargo ship.

It looks grey because these photos were taken from inside .

Disembarkation took about an hour as deck levels were called one at a time to avoid congestion. Straightforward after that,if a little slow. In no time at all we were on the A67 heading south. The A-67 is the Cantabrian Motorway, Toll-Free,a key road running through Cantabria, Spain, and it’s the most direct way to travel by car from Santander to areas south, such as Tordesillas. Ten minutes out of Santander and it was that idyllic driving experience I mentioned earlier – traffic free,no hold ups regardless of minor road works.

Scenic,winding route through hills and mountains

And then the edge of the Meseta,with signs off to villages I had stayed in on the recently walked Camino Frances, like Carrion des Condes. Two and a little more hours we reached L’Astral Campsite, a place we have stayed in several times over the years . Still untouched by sordid development and a friendly welcome as ever. The bungalow is a three minute walk from the bar/ restaurant where we are booked in for dinner and where I am finishing this post ferry part of the trip.
Estrella Galicia served in a frozen glass – nowhere serves it like Spain.

una buena comida

ARRIVEDERCI ROMA . Homeward Bound.

1 Jul

Final thoughts on the Via Francigena from Siena to Roma.

…” but as pilgrims no longer each of us for ourselves but walking alongside one another…”
The church adjacent to Domus Sessoriana .

The Via Francigena has been both enjoyable and challenging in equal measures. The scenery, the waymarking and conditions underfoot ( for the most part ), very good. The challenge was not so much the walking,although there were anticipated ups and downs; the heat at times, usually towards the end of a stage ,was strength sapping . We were informed that it was unusually high for this time of year,albeit for the second year on the trot – climate change?

“Pain is a part of life. Sometimes it’s a big part, and sometimes it isn’t, but either way, it’s part of the big puzzle, the deep music, the great game. Pain does two things: It teaches you, tells you that you’re alive. Then it passes away and leaves you changed. It leaves you wiser, sometimes. Sometimes it leaves you stronger. Either way, pain leaves its mark, and everything important that will ever happen to you in life is going to involve it in one degree or another.”
― Jim Butcher, White Night

Walking to somewhere, or walking away from something?

VIA FRANCIGENA

It is not a trail for beginners or the faint hearted. There are few facilities, Eg cafes, fountains , between towns and villages – this was the case in both Tuscany and Lazio. This makes it a different experience to Spanish Caminos. The guidance and advice is well informed – carry lots of water and snacks. This would seem to be an insurmountable problem for the Francigena as there are not enough pilgrims ,IE footfall ,to make a cafe/ bar feasible in predominant rural areas. There are not enough places to rest ,often not even a grassy bank. This could be achieved and would make a difference, plus more fountains.

LOGISTICS – it is possible to arrange the Via Francigena independently,however, luggage transfer would need to be arranged if you are no longer capable carrying 11 KG on your shoulders – it is not the bargain that the Spanish Correos provides. There are Apps.available and I found the pocket-Sized Cicerone guide to be very reliable when needed – signage was good except exiting from a couple of towns. We used a company called SLOWAYS for transfers, B/B accommodation and luggage transport.

There are stickers on posts along the way,too. We found the Italian people we met – hotels,bars,shops, asking the way – to be very gracious and helpful,often with a sense of humour. English is the lingua franca in Italy and it was only dinner menus that were sometimes perplexing! The food and drink was exceptionally good and it’ s worth spending a little more to escape continual pizza/pasta meals,delicious as they are.We found that regardless of what we paid for a meal or a panini,it was always delicious and good value.
Fish is not all that common so grab it when you can.

The underfoot conditions were good in the main, plenty of gravel roads in the countryside. The scenery was magnificent , especially in Tuscany

.

You could take a thousand photos

The villages and towns along the way were interesting with many medieval centres

Lots of arches
And those fountains…
Wild flowers everywhere except for the last couple days nearing Rome.
Information boards were presented in Italian & English
We were fortunate in having a couple of evenings where there was a festival taking place which added to the atmosphere- everyone enjoying themselves and no dorks in evidence.

NUMBERS – This is a very crowd free walk. We met one group of Australians a couple of times. A group of French pilgrims once,early on.We rubbed along with Karl from Oz on a few occasions, as he seemed to have the same accommodation as us. Otherwise, very few walkers- an occasional couple now and then. I would advise against walking solo simply because of the remoteness on some stretches and it’s not unknown for someone to have a fall, or some such calamity – have a companion . Pleased to say that our group of six came through unscathed, although one or two days were “ bussed” to relieve pains in the joints. Some longer stages were shortened if there was too challenging a descent. At this point it is worth remarking that especially in Tuscany, taxis were not that plentiful. On the plus side, local transport is good and extremely cheap – fares were €1.50 – 2.00 at most. You can obtain tickets at Tabacchis, although drivers seemed happy to allow you on board regardless,if you were a pilgrim,as it was not always possible to buy a ticket on board.

Bus stop at Monterosi

ROME It’s a two day trek into Rome,broken up in one of the outlying suburbs. There is an immediate change in both the environment and the traffic, which becomes noticeably more frantic as you near the capital. Rome is a wonderful city; it has it all:- Art,Culture,History ,Architecture and the Vatican. It would take days to really do justice to the sights,museums and its parks. We were quite overwhelmed at first, by the crowds,noticeably at St Peter’s and later by any famous monument,eg the Colosseum.Factor in the heat and instead of being enjoyable,it can become daunting so it is best to go in as early as possible and in retrospect June – September to be avoided.

FAVOURITE PHOTOS

I asked the group to send me some of their favourite photos, so what follows is a parade…and in no particular order!

Walk on everyone
Thanks to Christina, June,Mike,Tom and Rob for their patience, endurance,GSOH and company on our Via Francigena.

WELL ROMA IS NOT QUITE THE CITY FOR A REST DAY. Flying home tomorrow.

25 Jun

The day began with breakfast on the fourth floor terrace – getting very warm at 08.30

The sort of day you need for a “ rest” day.

Too hot to contemplate walking around to see the sights,besides which they are spread around the city of Rome. ANSWER? An open top bus tour.

It’s a pleasant walk from the hotel , through the archway, then a park.
A runway for the local dogs sheltering under this stretch of city walls
San Giovanni Station,our departure point
Rome must be the only city whose Metro stations bear a resemblance to museums

There are several companies competing for city tours

We chose this one
Santa Maria Maggiore was where we began our tour. what follows are some of the highlights….
Church of St Peter in Chains
We reached the Colosseum next – so many people it looked like it was under siege.
The Circus Maximus –
The Circus Maximus is the largest building for public entertainment in antiquity and one of the largest of all time (600 metres long by 140 metres wide) and is related by a legend to the very origins of the city: the Rape of the Sabine Women took place here.
Piazza Venezia –
Via dei Fori Imperiali , 
Piazza Venezia  derives its shape from the renovations of the area which took place between the nineteenth and twentieth centuries for the construction of the 
Monument to Vittorio Emanuele II .
Then to the Piazza Navona –
Three fountains adorn the square: Fontana del Moro, so-called for the statue of the Ethiopian fighting with a dolphin, Fontana de ‘Calderari, also known as the Fountain of Neptune, by Giacomo della Porta and, in the centre, the imposing Fountain of the Four Rivers, by Gian Lorenzo Bernini. Close by is the Vatican City.
after another short drive we came to the Villa Borghese –
The Villa Borghese Park occupies a vast area in the heart of the city. 
The villa contains buildings, sculptures, monuments and fountains, the work of illustrious artists of baroque, neoclassical and eclectic art , surrounded by centuries-old trees, lakes, Italian gardens and large open spaces, created with great care.
After a slow dive down Via Veneto we came by the Barberini Square –
The square is on the site of the ancient circus of Flora, where floral games took place in May to celebrate springtime. Placed in a depression and inhabited already in the first centuries of the Empire, it filled with villas and gardens during the 16th century. With the Strada Felice (today Via Sistina) inaugurated by Pope Sixyus V in 1586, it became an urban space and between the last decade of the 19th century and the first of the 20th century, it took a modern look thanks to the opening of the Via Veneto and the Via Regina Elena, now Via Barberini.
It is one of the nerve centres of the city. The square owes its name to Palazzo Barberini, here located. At its centre is the beautiful Fontana del Tritone by Gian Lorenzo Bernini (1632-37) on behalf of Pope Urban VIII Barberini. Represented in the centre of an enormous shell, with the erect bust and scaly legs of a sea monster, the Triton stands imposing. Its head bent backwards in an effort of blowing into the large spiral shell from which the water flows. Expression of the new baroque concept of space, the sculptural part of the fountain includes and completely absorbs the architectural structure: the shell, on which the Triton rests, constitutes, in fact, the upper basin of the fountain, and the baluster at the base is replaced by four dolphins with intertwined tails, among which are the papal coats of arms with bees, the heraldic symbol of the Barberini Family.
We alighted at Rome’s main station – Termini –
Roma Termini is Rome’s biggest train station, and one of Europe’s largest as well. There are 29 platforms and daily service to cities all over Italy as well as elsewhere in Europe. The name “Termini” comes from the station’s location in Rome. In the ancient city, the Baths of Diocletian (the Latin word for baths is “thermae”) were across the street from where the train station is today.
Thirsty business are bus tours – lunch across from the Termini.

One of the distractions along the route was the interweaving of scooters and motorbikes between the cars, coaches and buses – it must be in the Roman genes, but at least they didn’t ride along the pavements like they do in Naples. We noticed a heavy police presence in the city, too. But the single biggest presence were the crowds – everywhere.

It was with relief we got back to Domus Sessoriana in good time and the refreshment of air conditioning. I think that our 16 days adventure along the Via Francigena caught up with me today.

FINAL SAUNTER ON THE FRANCIGENA FROM LA GIUSTINIANA TO ROMA,Tuesday 24th June.

25 Jun

Mike and I were not too sure what to expect on this stage . Francigena signposts have disappeared and a stretch has to be taken on the busy,noisy Via Cassia

If you’re lucky they might stop at the crossing.

We walked a long way on the side of the road and did not see any signage off. Eventually, we came across a railway station and decided that in the interests of safety and sanity we would take the next train into Rome. A kindly young lady helped us out at the ticket machine and for the price of €1.50 each, we got the next train, after a five minute wait. Oh the delight of air conditioning.

We alighted at a stop closest to St Peter’s Square, had a coffee at the station cafe, girded our loins and walked a half KM into the Vatican.

Very busy – too busy to be enjoyable. Despite the guide book’s instructions and walking towards the right of the Basilica where we were supposed to get admission as pilgrims – it was a no go, Eventually we managed to get some help from a volunteer with a Jubilee badge on her blouse – pointing down the Boulevard she told us to go to Number 7 – the Jubilee Info. Point. About turn – found it easily and after a short wait we obtained our Jubilee Testimonium.
With a tube to keep it safe!

A long walk then to a Metro station and a few stops later, we alighted and walked to the hotel – after all the faffing about in the Vatican and in 33* heat, we were glad not to have walked all the way in….

Domus Sessoriana – the hotel
A former monastery
Rooftop terrace but too hot to stay up,there long despite the views.

https://www.domussessoriana.com/ – more about this place

VIEWS FROM THE TERRACE
Time then spent in Cafe Italia across the road .

In the evening we went to a seafood speciality restaurant which was memorable

Liqueurs on the house to finish.

Campagnano di Roma to La Giustiniana,Monday,23 rd June

24 Jun

To avoid a long, knee – testing descent, we took a short bus ride to Formello – the guide book informed us that it would be the last place of any real interest until,we reached Rome.

A real pot of tea to begin the day.
Looking across to the Porto in Formello where we picked up,the Via Francigena route.
A Trompe L’oeil.
Attached to two houses on a tiny piazza .

Pathway out and down from Formello.

Arriverderci Formello – a pretty, tranquil commune.
Beehives – always reassuring to see these.
A Prickly Pear Bush in flower – a rare sight.
Close up.

We walked in to the Veio National Nature Reserve/ Park.

A green lung with wildlife and archaeological beauty

With nearly 15,000 hectares, the Veio Regional Natural Park extends north of Rome between the Via Flaminia and Via Cassia and includes the so-called Agro Veientano. It is the fourth largest park in Lazio and covers an area of natural, historical and cultural interest. It includes the municipalities of Campagnano di Roma, Castelnuovo di Porto, Formello, Magliano Romano, Mazzano Romano, Morlupo, Riano, Sacrofano and the 15th Municipality of the Province of Rome. The network of trails is signposted by the CAI and covers 99 kilometres, including the Via Francigena.

Walking in…
A lot of our pathway was along this track.
It was like being on a rolling switchback.
This is the most impressive sight in then Veio, by an ancient mill.
We crossed the bridge to make our way eventually to a an unexpected and welcome cafe
It also had a little swimming pool attached – very inviting but we had no kit!

The last section of the walk was through La Storta – a forgettable car dominated suburb – walking along the busy Via Cassia – after a couple of uncomfortable KM, to our hotel for the night. it was up a quiet road, passing the Tunisian Embassy- no photos allowed ; two well armed soldiers on guard.

Resort La Rocchetta

You had to ring through two electronic gates for access. A very helpful receptionist- excellent English – difficult to work,out why it was called a “ resort “ – pleasant place , but no bar only a machine with no beer! And no pool. No evening meals. Being a Monday meant walking back down to the Via Cassia to bar 421, which was situated between the aforesaid main road and the commuter railway line into Rome – amicable staff and good draught beer,plus Prosecco for you know who!

We then traipsed along to a Trattoria where we had a decent meal and two brave pilgrims tried Trippa all a Romana,.

Me? I stuck to Polpettini.

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