ensuitepilgrim's Blog

There was little in the way of particular interest fora few kilometres and we were pleased to come across a rest stop not mentioned in the guide books.

That will have to do for now. Leon still maintains the traditional siesta where most places, except restaurants, close from 13.00 – 16.00. Temperature reached 25* today – very pleasant and a good forecast for our “ rest” day here.

Sahagun is a sleepy place – in a time warp – the only lively activity was a bouncy castle for children who had made their First Communion – all sailor suits and white frocks.

We were on our way and after an hour or so,it was a welcoming picnic spot for refreshments on the REAL CAMINO FRANCES.

An experience that reminds us that an independently arranged Camino is not a package holiday- there will be occasional setbacks but always more than compensated by the rewards.

In my last Blog I wrote quite a piece on Albergue La Morena, however, the reality of staying there yesterday ( Sat. 10/05/23 ), was quite different. A tale of two contrasting scenarios. FIRST the rooms were modern and bright, with nice touches – fruit bowl, complimentary water, foot cream and hydration pack – the problem was getting in to the room. It took 50 minutes to register and get keys, I was unimpressed by the initial greeting I got on entrance , from a diminutive woman dressed impeccably in white – “ You’ll have to wait “ – she made no effort to assist her hapless colleague on reception duties. SECOND after enjoying a couple of beers in the sun we made our way to dinner promptly at 19.00 as ordered. We examined the Pilgrim Menu 2 choices of first and second courses,3 for dessert. Traditionally, and in every restaurant I have ever eaten, water,soft drink, beer or wine is included in the menu – this menu “ included” water / bread.The receptionist came for our drinks order – 2 bottles of wine €36.50 – no house wine! Then eventually our order for the meal,was taken by the barman, they had run out of one of the choices ( there were only two ). One of the first courses was Estufado of Broccoli ( broccoli stew ). It has to be the worst thing I have ever seen on a Spanish plate. TG I had the soup which was lukewarm . It took 45 minute before any food was served. My main gripe was not the poor quality of the food,on a Camino you can expect the occasional stinker, what enraged me ? It was totally unpilgrimlike and not in the spirit of the Camino . IE – a rip- off as there was no other place to go in this small hamlet. Grandmother La Morena would be turning in her grave.

Sunday’s walk began under cloudless, blue skies. We passed an Albergue on the way out of Ledigos

We passed Hotel Real Monasterio de San Zoilo on the edge of town – a very impressive place to stay, but at £92.00 a night, a little above our budget

We walked along the very Vía Aquitania, the old Roman road that linked Bordeaux with Astorga.

We walked on to Calazadilla de la Cueza – 10.5 miles on from Carrion .

We enjoyed a good buffet breakfast this morning, Ranjit on the coffee, before setting out for Carrion de Los Candes – 13 miles,or so.

La Huerta – a Spanish allotment

At last, the sun shone consistently and the wind dropped. A long stage tomorrow of 17 KM without much infrastructure and so Mike,Ranjit and I went to the supermarket to enable our progress tomorrow. After dropping off the shopping we headed back to the Plaza Mayor to sit in the evening sunshine with a couple of beers.

“That thou, light-winged Dryad of the trees,
In some melodious plot
Of beechen green, and shadows numberless,
Singest of summer in full-throated ease.”

ODE TO A NIGHTINGALE by John Keats

As we were walking along the Canal ,Tom stopped and with the aid of an App. on his phone, identified the song of a Nightingale – something I had never heard before – the Camino provides wonder,too.

A leisurely start to a short saunter this morning,with the ever present markers to guide us.

The Canal de Castilla, an impressive work of hydraulic engineering, was one of the best projects of this type to be built in Spain throughout the 18th and 19th centuries at the hands of the Enlightenment and at a time when it was necessary to sell grain surplus and improve commercial communications.

What was born as a navigation route for the transport of goods, would be closed to traffic in the middle of the 20th century, in 1959. Considered today as an Asset of Cultural Interest, since then its main function has been focused on irrigation, to which unites its interest as one of the most attractive tourist routes in Castilla y León, due to the scenic, natural wealth and the historical-artistic value that the cities that are in its path arouse.

This artificial river, which runs for 205 kilometers of the plateau between the provinces of Palencia and Valladolid, has become a route of cultural interest that in its three branches -North, South and Campos- offers visitors a rich and varied architecture of its own , a natural environment on its shores and the historical and traditional grounds of the towns that are in its path.

The Northern Branch starts in Alar del Rey and ends in Ribas de Campos, where the so-called Ramal de Campos begins, until it reaches Medina de Rioseco. And the Southern Branch begins at the fork of the Campos Branch in El Serrón and continues to the city of Pisuerga, Valladolid. https://www.turismocastillayleon.com/es/arte-cultura-patrimonio/grandes-rutas/canal-castilla

We continued along the Camino and entered Fromista noting another Stork’s nest on the way.

A 12.5 mile walk tomorrow . Ranjit declared “ it would be a walk in the park “ – we’ll he would, wouldn’t’ he ?

Hontanas is a picturesque and typical Camino village tucked away in a little valley – dedicated to Pelegrinos.

Saint Anton known as the hermit or the abbot, was a Christian ascetic of the 4th and 5th centuries. His life was written by Saint Athanasius. We know about him -among other things- that he was born into a wealthy family in Egypt. Later, he sold his goods and became a hermit. His relics were kept for a long time in Alexandria before being transferred to Constantinople and finally received in France. The rapid expansion of this group in free territory was the response to the strong devotion that San Antón produced for his intercessory quality against this disease. It soon ceased to be a lay group to become an order made up of regular canons of San Agustín.

When San Antón cured the founder of his illness, he asked him to create a hospital to cure those suffering from the same disease, giving him a staff in the shape of a “T” (tau), which became a symbol of the Order (Antonians wore a letter tau on their robes) and an essential part of their ritual. ( info. extracted from an article called VIAJE A ASTURIAS

Onwards, then, along a newly constructed pathway to Castrojeriz

 And it was 

these bloody battles that gave Castrojeriz its name since the Arabic name was 

Castro del Xaraiz , whose meaning is 

bloody castro .

There are many interesting structures in this ancient pilgrim town.

Leaving Castrojeriz

A town whose population is diminishing and it’s only lively spot is our “ digs” for tonight Hotel Rural en el Camino.

I have very ambivalent feelings about Graffiti, regarding it as mostly infantile scribbling – in cities I have developed indifference towards it – but my hackles were raised when this son of Wales cast no glory on his homeland by defacing these signs.

High on a hill overlooking Hornillos , was this cross at the top of a rare hill on the Meseta

That quiet scene brings an end to the first day’s walking – such variety of places,scenery and signs…hopefully of more good things to come.