Sutri Necropolis Mostly fields and forests walking with refreshing stops at Monte Gelato and Monterossi. Bearing in mind that it is Sunday,best to take plenty of water/snacks just in case bars are closed.Apparently Campagnano is a small town typical of Lazio,full of life in the evenings,particularly in the more modern piazza just outside the Porta Romano gates.Sutri’s Ampitheatre is the departure point and once again we are presented with the dilemma of a choice of routes. A quieter exit along Via Dei Creti which adds 3.2 KM to what is already a longish day, or to keep to the official route by turning right just after the Ampitheatre towards the SP40.
Shady forest trails.
We pass the National School of Golf,quite a contrast to the surrounding countryside and make our way towards Monterosi,slightly uphill.
The town has a long and colourful history including invasions, papal interventions and assassinations. There is a small 30-hectare volcanic lake within the city limits.
Lago Monterosi.
The unusual Renaissance-era Chapel of San GuiseppeHopefully it will be open .
A straightforward route to the next stop of significance, Mont Gelato with its renowned waterfalls.
Monte Gelato Falls are a series of small waterfalls which form part of the Treja River and can be found in the Treji Valley Park. This is a popular picnic area at weekends,especially trippers from Rome.
We fork left after the park and walk upwards along an asphalt road, through hazelnut orchards. We come close by the Vallelunga motor racing track ( No Italian drivers’ jokes please…oh go on then ). We descend to cross the bed of a season stream,running alongside the Parco Regionale Di Veio.
Today’s saunter, not unusually, ends with an uphill climb on switchbacks before sighting Campagnano.
A pretty town in the gentle Lazio hills north of Rome, Campagnano di Roma retains the atmosphere of the Middle Ages. Its “medieval borgo” has towers and sinewy streets to enjoy, and the ancient Porta Roma, gateway into the city, still stands proudly next to the City Hall, and opens onto Corso Emanuele, the main street. It is lined with pastel palazzi, shops, eateries and coffee bars, before spilling out into Piazza Leonelli, with its fancy fountain by Vignoli in the middle guarded by an old clock tower. The Piazza della Fontana Secca, or dry fountain, features antique basins where spring water collected, both washing clothes. The church of San Giovanni Battisti was built in 1515 and features some fine frescoes. The archeological museum shows off artifacts found in the area, which was an Etruscan zone before being taken over by the Romans. The red town hall. In the evenings,people make for the Parco Pubblico, the centre of activity.ALBERGO BENIGNI Via della Vittoria 13, Campagnano di Roma
“An ancient restaurant, born in the early 1900s as a tavern-inn, expanded and renovated over time. Our cuisine is typically Roman, over time it develops and becomes more creative, reinterpreting traditional Roman-regional dishes.” HOTEL WEBSITE
RECENT REVIEW – A stop on the via francigena to room hotel in square in the newer side of town. WiFi excellent good shower comfortable bed etc. I had dinner in hotel very good meat cooked over charcoal Breakfast included all you need ham cheese etc
FLeaving Vetralla, we travel a beautiful stretch in a thick forest, before arriving at the little church of the Madonna di Loreto. From here we cross an immense hazelnut grove and skirt some monumental oaks, before arriving at the Torri d’Orlando, ruins of an ancient monastery. We continue towards the delightful village of Capranica, and then towards Sutri, a little-known pearl along the Francigena, with its Amphitheatre dug into the tuff, the Mithraeum and the beautiful historic centre. Water and refreshment points only in Capranica.
It’s a long stretch to Capranica so we shall need plenty of water and snacks. Capranica is described as a “ delightful “ place .
The first stage of today’s walk will take us through leafy green forests
After the Bosco Monteofogliano Park, via the village of Giardino, there is a lovel trail for the next 4 KM, under trees, interrupted only by only a meadow and a brief walk across a roundabout . We need to look for a right fork that goes downhill that emerges into an orchard. We then cross the Via Cassia and after a further 1.5 KM arrive at the Orlando TowersLegend says that these three towers were built by Orlando ( Italian for Roland ),a favourite general of Charlemagne and subject of the epic 11th C. poem” The Song of Roland”. In fact,historians suggest two of the towers are funeral monuments from the Roman period and the other the remains of a bell tower from the 10th c. Roland’s words before death: “Here must we stand to serve on the King’s side. Men for their lords great hardship must abide, Fierce heat and cold endure in every clime, Lost for his sake, if need be, skin and hide.”.
After a further walk through hazelnut orchards, we cross-cross railway tracks, traverse a modest creek by a bridge until we come to Capranica.
City gatesClock tower – Capranica is situated on the top of a ridge and consists of a long cobbled road with little side streets and the Church of San Pietro in the middle.
After a lunch stop and refreshed we continue towards Sutri, ( if not, then a bus or taxi ride to Sutri )
Fosso Mazzano stream alongside a shady path for 2 KMFoot Bath anyone?There is soon a choice to visit the Etruscan Archeological Park , one of the finest Etruscan sites in Italy, or head up the hill to Sutri.SUTRI – as charming a place as any on the Francigena but with a history far older than most . The medieval town is clustered atop the ridge of tufa stone.
B&B Notti d’Oriente – Our accommodation for this evening on the via garibaldi 51, 01015 Sutri, in the centre of the old town.
“I stayed here for one night whilst walking the Via Francigena, but I would happily have stayed longer. My room was well-equipped with kettle, dining table and a good bathroom, and there was access to a shared kitchen. The lovely lady who greeted me was very kind and helpful, and Sutri is a pretty little town. Recommended.”
Bar Salza, nearby is recommended for APERITIVOS in the Piazza Camilo, nearby. Also, Jin To EnoGintoneri, a minute away.
M12.05.2025 Via Francigena Viterbo – Vetralla We were up early, because yesterday we went to bed early. It’s our first day, so we have to prepare well. A sunny day is forecast, so plenty of sunscreen. To avoid blisters, tape your feet. A common mistake is that one tries to take care of blisters once they’re here. Gotta make sure they don’t show up. That’s why all the tape. Then we went to see the sisters for breakfast, but we were there all alone, and decided not to do it anyway. Called the nurses to ask if they could leave our backpack there. We decided, considering my knee issue, to walk light this year. So we let 1 backpack be transported from lodges to lodges, and there we of course put the heaviest pieces in, and what we do not need on the way. I carry a small backpack with the camel bag in it, and Liliane carries a smaller backpack with what she thinks she needs on the way. The nurse informs the person in charge of the rooms to be sure if our story is correct, was ok, and we were allowed to leave our backpack there, and we could go. We walk through the Pizza della Morte, where we had a good dinner yesterday, passing the Vicolo dei Pellegrini, and so on past the Palazzo Farnese, to the Piazza San Lorenzo, with the Cattedrale di San Lorenzo, and further the Palazzo de Papi. Here the VF is not properly specified, but I still knew it from last year. You have to go down a narrow metal staircase through a small gate. For those who come to me, this is the way to follow. Then continue to the Porta di Valle, which is still closed, so you have to go right to the Porta Faul with the Torre della bella Galiana, to then get to the Strada Signorino via the Camno Rosso. Mc Donald’s where we have breakfast. It all sounds a bit complicated, but it’s not, everything proves itself. And so after a nice breakfast with croissant and cappuccino we go back on the road, via the Strada Signorino. In Viterbo you can continue walking on the Via Francigena in several ways. You can take the long, “scenic” route via the Porta Romana, or the short one via the Strada Signorino, or in between via the Strada Freddano. We choose the short one via the Strada Signorino, which is also beautiful, because this road was carved completely out of the rocks, still by the Etrusks. Very impressive and beautiful. A disadvantage is that the road is also used by cars, but they drive slowly and are all friendly and give us space, and wave good day. At the end of the Strada Signorino, we come to a field road, and walk under the provincial road. Last year I went directly to the left, but now we take a little more time, and go to the right to the Chiesa di Santa Maria di Castel d’Asso (on the Strada Ponte del Diavolo -;)! ). I highly recommend it to everyone. It is a beautiful old church. There is also the official road sign of 100 km to Rome. On the way we came across another crab crossing the road. And when we got to the church, there was a volunteer cleaning up, because there had been a party yesterday. He offered us a drink, which we accepted with thanks, and we received a nice stamp on our credential. Then back on our steps to continue following the Via Fancigena. Further, a new resting place has been decorated, very beautiful. We follow the field path parallel to a busy road leading to Vetralla and Rome. Last year there were huge fields here with only coal, but of all kinds (red, white, savoy, spike, etc). Now there’s nothing on the field, and trucks will be hit by with stable manure, probably to work it into the field. There’s a huge pile already. Along the path there are a huge variety of flowers and plants. Time to open my Obsidentify app and see what plants are all on here. We walk further on the path, under the highway, and then a long steep climb begins, in the full sun, almost without shelter, we walk among the hazelers. It’s falling heavy. We meet another pilgrim, Will from Sidney, Australia, who also walks to Vetralla. And a little later 2 pilgrims from Canada, also on the way to Vetralla. We stop on the way under a hazel tree, to rest a bit and eat and drink. And when we leave back, we come across a resting place 100 meters further with a table and benches (I had totally forgotten that it was here). There was a couple, volunteers, riding their bikes down the path to make sure everything was clean and in order. Respect, and a big THANK YOU, to these people. Every now and then they also walk a route, to arrive in Rome at the end of next month. Very friendly people. The bank is at about the highest point of this stage, in any case there is a beautiful view of the valley. Walking is a bit smoother from here. We arrive at another resting place, where there is drinkable water. We’re going to rest a bit and eat and drink something. The 2 Canadians also join to rest and drink, and to chat. How further do we get to a b&b where there is a bench where the pilgrims can rest, and where there is also a stamp for the credential. Last year I also stopped here for a while with Fred, only because it rained. There’s a beautiful birdhouse hanging in a tree now. How much further can we choose for a shortcut, if we follow the Via Roma, or make a detour if we follow the via Francigena. It’s not too late, and we’re going for “the full tour”. We are not complaining, we pass by a place where you can refresh your feet (we don’t, we don’t have a towel), and a little further to a very old church, Chiesa di Santa Maria in Foro Cassio. A very old, but beautiful church. There is an info point that is staffed (by a young lady) by volunteers. You can write your name or a wish on a stone and put it there, and the lady will also make for us a stone with the symbol of the Via Francigena. Respect back, and thank you for these volunteers. Now it’s not far to Vetralla. Upon entering, we meet Will van Sidney sleeping in a hotel just outside Vetralla. We will continue after a short chat, and upon entering Vetralla you will pass by an “open air museum”, where there are all things depicting different old professions, furthermore there is a beautiful mural, and there is a building decorated in a nice way. Crossing the busy road, we’ll stop at the tourist service for another stamp, and then we’ll get to our accommodation. I’m calling the host that we have arrived, and sitting on the terrace of the bar next to the accommodation. A little later he arrives, and shows the accommodation. To the pilgrims who come after us and are looking for good lodging in Vetralla. Address Il Refugio del Pellegrino or Refugio del Cavaliere. Highly recommended. Located on the Via Francigena, next to a bar, where you can drink during the day, which serves breakfast in the morning, and across the street is the restaurant La Lanterna, which I can also recommend. Ate there last year, and this time again, very tasty. And then it’s time to go to sleep again, because we are a bit tired after all from walking in the sun, with a serious height difference, and still almost 18 km. See you tomorrow
Day XI is a”rest’ day in Viterbo – the above article gives a loving impression of the city by an American who stayed for the best part of a year, recently.
Bonmarzo Garden
In 2022 the official route was moved east in order to incorporate footpaths in the vast woods of Monte Fogliano,while the former route on Strada Signorino was preserved as an official variant.
The western route is recommended as both shorter and more interesting since it traverses the mysterious Etruscan “ vie cave” roads. However, The Gronze guide states “Note 2025: The short 16 km route is closed. Take the official route via San Martino al Cimino.” Confusing isn’t it?
Below is an extract from a Blog written as recently as October,2023 – by an an American pilgrim.
“There are two (ehhh…2.5) routes out of Viterbo. The one recommended in the guidebook involves walking to this McDonalds and continuing on, left at the fork, for a few miles — or taking a short detour by heading right at the fork (thus the 0.5). This route is about 9 miles long and relatively flat. The other route is more like 16 miles long and hilly, and though the guidebook doesn’t mention it, the VF app treats this as the “official” route. Anyway, I was going with the guidebook route, so forked left at the Golden Arches.
The real reason for taking this route is not because it is short or flat (though that helps…) No, it’s to walk in the fascinating Via Cava that the path traces for the first hour of the day. Here, 2500 years ago the Estruscans carved these roads deep into the soft tufa stone, connecting their cities to burial areas. On a side note, I am very fascinated by the Estruscans, who were a very sophisticated pre-Roman society. This was such a cool way to start the day, with the narrow road curving between soft stone walls that got progressively higher and narrower, with a few protruding ominously at the top.”
Leaving Viterbo – Palazzo del Papi“ The mysterious Etruscan Vie Cave
Apparently, the origin of these excavated roads has a variety of explanations. They are narrow roadways cut into soft,tufa stone over 2 500 years ago. They usually led from Etruscan settlements to nearby necropoli – depth can vary between 12 – 24 metres.
The municipality of Vetralla (province of Viterbo, Lazio) is located along the Via Francigena at 300 metres above sea level. Known for its characteristic medieval village and the woods of the Cimini mountains – the green lung of Tuscia – it is a land of important Etruscan, Roman, and Barbarian settlements and has a rich artistic and archaeological heritage. In this borgo, along Via Francigena stage 42 Vetralla-Sutri, the mural ‘Il Cammino’ (The Way) created by painter Alessandro Ridolfi has just been completed. The artwork was realised on the initiative of a committee of local volunteers to enhance the places crossed by the Via Francigena in Vetralla.Though well preserved, today’s sleepy town is divided between a few businesses scattered along the Via Roma in the upper city and others along the busy Via Cassia highway a few metres below.
Vetralla’s most important architectural monument The 12th century Church of San FrancescoALBERGO DA BENEDETTA , Via Francesco Petrarca,Vetralla
“Da Benedetta is a hotel in Vetralla, on the ancient Via Francigena, between Viterbo and Rome. It was grandmother Benedetta Rosati who opened, back in 1959, the restaurant from which the hotel developed, at the instigation of the Pasquinelli family (it was the year 2002). In more than sixty years, our family has seen the territory, the pilgrims and its own hotel change, but never the tradition and the identity legacy of grandmother Benedetta. Family-run, recently renovated, pet friendly and with a green soul, the Da Benedetta hotel restores the spirit of this splendid land, Tuscia. A soft land, of passage, in which culture is a legacy of ancestors, of wayfarers.“ FROM THE HOTEL’S WEBSITE
“I stayed at Da Benedetta for one night while walking the Via Francigena. Even though I arrived a little early, the very helpful lady on reception allowed me to check in, and my room was both clean and very comfortable, with a good bathroom. Breakfast next morning set me up for several hours walking. A very pleasant location with welcoming staff. Recommended.” RECENT REVIEW
PS I have not gone into too much detail about the route; I have guidance for both and may be worth waiting for Sloways’ info.
It would be a shame to leave Montefiascone without recounting the amusing story of its most famous (some say undeserved )wine. Legend of Est! Est! Est!: The name originates from a story about a bibulous German prelate who sent his servant ahead to scout for good wines during his travels. The servant would mark promising taverns with “Est” (Latin for “it is”) on the door. If the wine was exceptionally good, he would write “Est! Est! Est!”. The bishop, impressed by the servant’s enthusiastic marking, embraced the wine and gave it the name. However,the priest took such a shine to it that he died from overconsumption; his pickled remains were laid to rest in the church of St Flávio.
Buona Salute!
Cathedral of Santa Margherita, Montefiascone
The first section of the route is spectacular, walking along the ancient paving of Via Cassia, still in good condition. Then a stretch across a hill track, overlooking lovely views of Montefiascone and Viterbo.
This way up to the start point of this sectionLooking back to Montefiascone – “ over my shoulder”.
The Roman road – The Via Cassia Antica is still in very good condition despite its 2000 years! Walk through history along these well preserved ancient Roman roads. The paving is still in very good condition thanks to the extraordinary road building skills of the ancient Romans. The ancient flagstones (basoli) are still sitting right where the Romans placed them.Montefiascone in the distance
We fork to the left hereabouts A welcome water fountain . We need to take plenty with us on this section.
We walk upwards for a while before descending through shade passing near a railway .
We fork to the right here and soon should see vistas of Viterbo nestled at the foot of a mountain. We follow signs, sending through flat fields to reach Parco Terme Bagnaccio and its famous hot springs. There should be a kiosk open here for refreshments.Pilgrims have traditionally been welcomed here for centuries
Not far to Viterbo along a gravel road,passing the airport the route becomes a bleak panoply of suburban auto businesses interspersed with tall, concrete retaining walls – the entrails of the city. But not to despair as finally arrive at the Porta Florentina from whence we head straight downhill on cobblestones to the end of Via Matteoti and then the Corso Italia to reach Piazza Plebiscito
Apparently the “ gritty” entry into Viterbo can give the wrong impression of what is an otherwise charming and historic city,whose existence dates to an era long before Rome. Viterbo is the centre of the Tusca region of Etruscan culture (9th – 4th C b.c ) whose vestiges and influences are still quite visible. The city has an eventful history and a great richness of architecture which we shall have time to explore as we have a full day’s respite here.
Hotel Palazzio Riario, via Della Torre,17 ViterboBreakfast is served.
“Nice hotel. Comfortable, clean, beautiful room in an old house. The owner of the hotel is very nice and friendly, in touch if necessary. Arrived later than the appointed time, checked in very quickly. Location in the very center of the city. Everything is within walking distance. Nearby, a couple of minutes walk, there is even a small supermarket, which is very convenient! Very happy with the choice!” RECENT REVIEW.
Total ascent 638 m.total descent 356 m NB There are no services until MONTEFIASCONE, we shall need to bring snacks and additional water.
Until the last few busy km into Montefiascone the stage is full of serenity and calm. Gravel roads and paths among fields and forests with occasional views of the lake. A couple of limbs of 50-150m.
Rome is 70 miles away. Leaving the Piazza S. Cristina, we pass through the Porta Romana and take the Via IV Novembre. Walk about 200 yards and turn left at the crossroads along the Via Acqua della Croce. It is wiser to buy bottled water than to fill our water bottle at the small fountain or at least it is advisable to inquire about the quality of drinking water in each of the towns through which you pass. Another 100 yards and we turn right into the Via Bartolomeo Bocchini and fork left into the Via Caio Rufo Musonio, named after a philosopher from Bolsena. There is a slightly shorter distance to cover for walkers than cyclists because of the one-way system. There is a uphill stretch at the end of the street. You follow the signpost for the Agriturismo Le Vigne for a short distance. A further hundred yards and the tarmac road gives way to an unpaved track on your right.
All Trails view.
We shall be walking in the territory of Tuscia, named so because of the Etruscans, who lived in this area (even though Tuscia used to be much wider than this) before the Romans.
There are also many shady stretches.
“Follow the power line and the blackberry bushes for two hundred yards and turn right again close to an electricity box where you can see the red and white “F” and a multitude of other signs.
There is a trough of running water at this point where someone has painted a red “X” as an additional warning not to drink the water. You have to leap or ride across a stream on your right.
Walk uphill for four hundred yards and go down the cement road on your right; a beautiful view of the Lake.
Straight afterwards, at the fork in the road, take the road on your left. A tarmac road leads you to the house with the animals.
Three hundred yards ahead, opposite a private property, continue along a narrow path running alongside it on your left, (take care not to fall into the ditch on your left, half-hidden by the vegetation). Poultry and black pigs.
The house at the end of the narrow path is more elegant.
Walk down as far as the fountain. Four hundred yards and you arrive at a junction where four roads intersect, take the asphalt road in front of you, bearing left.
If you continue straight ahead and downhill, a cross on a post quickly tells you that, on leaving the gravel track, you should have turned left along the tarmac road.
There are enough signs inviting you to bear left.
Follow the power lines for a lot of the way.
Continue walking past a large number of houses, not taking any minor road or track on either side, until you reach a wide green barrier.
There are plenty of signs along the way.
The path after the wide green barrier winds fairly smoothly until you reach a fairly steep uphill stretch.
Leaving the asphalt behind you, you go up to a beautiful low plateau. There are caves (or tombs?) used as garages for farm vehicles.
The walk between Bolseno and the Parco di Turano is indeed very beautiful, only interrupted by small groups of houses. You are on the Monti Volsinii. Excavations are taking place on the nearby Monte Landro where an Etruscan temple has been discovered.
Another cave where building work has been done at different periods to support the entrance arch.
Other caves.
In the past, water trickling through the mountain used to be collected in stone basins or open pools and used for irrigation purposes. A project was funded some years ago in Bolsena and Montefiascone to restore some of them.
Your uphill walk comes to an end and a sign invites you to turn right across the grassland.
That’s right, turn right.
Walk in the hot sun.
It is a beautiful walk between Bolsena and Montefiascone, but it is worth checking the temperature before setting out and being prepared.
The route is well signposted.
At various stages, you catch glimpses of the town of Montefiascone or Bisentina Island.
You cross a dry ford depending on the time of the year.
There is only one isolated house along this stretch of the Via Francigena.
You will soon arrive at another low green barrier.
Cyclists should take care. There is a very inviting downhill ride.
Another mile or so of an enjoyable downhill walk with a splendid view of the Lake, your feet touch the asphalt again and you turn left uphill.
The route is signposted often …
… and in many different ways.
You follow the Via Francigena signpost.
The path leads you between olive groves and vines and rows of vines between olive groves.
The next Via Francigena signpost and the directions for the Bosco di Turona.
The Bosco di Turona is an area of picnics and springs. There is a picnic area with tables before you reach the glade with the chapel and there are tables near the chapel. Turn right at the fork in the road indicated by a Via Francigena signpost.
Signs also indicate the spring, Sorgente di Turona, (1908). Local hunters drink at the spring and so do we.
Just before you reach a small chapel dedicated to the Virgin (and seemingly vandalised), you leave the main track and turn left up an unpaved road.
In September, after the first storms, the torrential rain has cut deep channels in this section of the track and in the approaching downhill path.
Walk another four hundred yards and then take care.
A track goes downhill on your right and is only indicated by arrows and other signs left by pilgrims and walkers.
The channel cut by stormwater makes the descent difficult.
The path goes down to the Fosso d’Arlena (stream).
You ford across the brook and it is sometimes difficult not to get your feet wet. Not everybody is as nimble as we are and it is even more difficult with a bicycle. It is sometimes best to take your shoes and socks off. You enter the wood and turn right uphill. The path is well indicated by white and yellow arrows. For a part of the journey, you can still hear the murmur of the Arlena stream down below.
The path winds steeply up and bears left.
You finally come out into the open countryside with beautiful views of the nearby lake.
The path widens and the slopes are more gentle with the path running alongside vineyards. Milestones reassure you that you are on the right track.
You will notice the first stones of the ancient Cassia.
The route is indicated by familiar Via Francigena signs, increasingly familiar milestones and a myriad of arrows, symbols and stickers.
At a junction where four roads intersect, you can choose to take the unpaved road on your right and ignore the signs for a stretch of asphalt road. The track seems to end near a country house. You may be crossing private property. Continue leftwards alongside a field on your right down an unpaved road. You arrive back on the asphalt and turn right towards the Cassia; you reach the Cassia after 50 yards and turn left towards Montefiascone. If you do decide to follow the “official” route, take the tarmac road on your right and turn left when you reach the Cassia. Another 900 yards or so and you leave the Cassia and turn left.
Keep straight on ignoring the tracks on either side.
This stretch is uphill but not steep and bordered on your left by vineyards and olive groves.
The track starts as a dirt track and then a road which no longer seems to be maintained and another mile or so and you are back on a macadamised road.
You arrive at a busier asphalt road at the entrance to Montefiascone and you turn right. Turn left when you reach the Cassia again. Follow the Via Cardinale Salotti. If you wish to visit the Santuario della Madonna delle Grazie, you can make a detour along the Via S. Maria delle Grazie which joins the main Orvieto-Viterbo road (S.P. UMBRO CASENTINESE). Turn left when you reach the main road and walk a short distance until you reach the Sanctuary. After your visit, follow the main road back into town. Otherwise continue along the Via Cardinale Salotti until you reach the main Orvieto-Viterbo road (S.P. UMBRO CASENTINESE). A little farther along, on your right, you pass in front of the magnificent Church of St Flavian ( S. Flaviano), always open and well worth a visit.
The next stretch of the Via Francigena starts on the Via Cassia again. To enter the town, take a narrow road on your right after the Basilica di San Flaviano. After the Piazzale Roma, take the Corso Cavour as far as the Piazza V. Emanuele. You can visit the Chiesa di Sant’Andrea, the Cattedrale di Santa Margherita and La Rocca dei Papi (Papal Fortress).” The above somewhat lengthy descriptions I found on a Blog called MY FAVOURITE NECROPOLIS
60 miles in old money, to Rome.Montefiascone has a reputation for welcoming Pilgrims.Uphill to the town Centro Storico
Rooftop view. “Stayed one night on the Via Francigena. Room was clean, quiet and staff helpful. Breakfast good and location can’t be beat at the top of the town within easy walking distance of all the sights. Half board arranged at restaurants Dante alegheria. Food was fine and a great people watching experience”. A RECENT REVIEW
Fairly flat terrain- 23% on pavements San Lorenzo is the only stopover on this section.Today, we make our way to Bolsena and its renown volcanic lake. One of our party will be intrigued by the fact the the town’s patron Saint is Santa Cristina,feast day,24 th July.On her feast day,the townspeople act out the lurid scenes depicting the multiple tortures she suffered under the Romans – no one seems particularly worried that the episodes don’t tally with any known historical facts!
There is only one place for re-filling water bottles and refreshments today, so we need to be prepared.
Maybe not quite that much.A shady start
Almost immediately after leaving the city, a part of the route begins along a dirt road that passes through some crops. We are at a low altitude and from here we shall only see the cultivated fields. There are no sunflower or wheat crops to make everything a little more picturesque, but there is no shortage of tall corn plants. They are very tall .
Blue skies though .
The initial stretch is not that remarkable but in less than three hours, precisely halfway along the route, we shall reach the first town of the day and everything begins to have a different aspect . San Lorenzo Nuovo and here to welcome us there is a beautiful octagonal square, called Piazza Europa, which looks pleasantly impressive.
Famous Octagonal Square
San Lorenzo Nuovo is a village located on the northern side of the Volsini mountains just five kilometers from the shores of Lake Bolsena. This country is located in a particular geographical position that places it on the border of three regions: Umbria, Tuscany and Lazio. San Lorenzo Nuovo, as its name suggests, arose in recent times unlike other villages and cities in this area. The town was founded in 1779 by the inhabitants of San Lorenzo alle Grotte,which had to move due to the presence of malaria-carrying swamps which made the air unhealthy. The historic center of the village is of a neoclassical style dating back to 700. The city has a particular urban structure made up of a series of houses that follow the octagonal shape of piazza Europa the city center where the church of San Lorenzo stands. It might come as surprise to learn that the principal crop hereabouts is the humble potato.
Church of San Lorenzo A wooden crucifix (a work from the early 14th century attributed by some to Maitani) and two paintings by Jacopo Zucchi.
Look out onto the road that continues at the end of Piazza Europa to glimpse Lake Bolsena in all its splendor.
This is Piazza Europa, that blue in the distance is the Lake. Our first encounter with Bolsena! At a 114km2, Lago di Bolsena is Europe’s largest volcanic lake. Between 100,000 and 200,000 years ago successive volcanic eruptions led to the collapse of the earth’s crust in the volcano’s caldera for in the lake and its two islands. Underground springs and storm water runoff fill the lake,which has an outlet to the sea through the Marta River.
Up to Bolsena, the route continues on dirt roads in a pleasant up and down that sees alternating olive groves, meadows and woods. The characteristic that these different landscapes have in common are the fantastic views of the lake that can be glimpsed every now and then. It is a very beautiful section.
And with a body of water on the horizon, any glimpse will be definitely worth a little stop.Onwards through a woodland section Bolsena in the distance. Ancient streetsThe sun kissed lake – anyone for a dip?
WHAT TO SEE IN BOLSENA.
Take a tour of the delightful historic centre. “Among the places of greatest interest we will find the “Collegiata di Santa Cristina”, built in Romanesque style and later restored with the addition of the beautiful Renaissance style façade. The Collegiata is best known for the Miracle of Corpus Domini.I refer you to the very well-kept blog “Itinerari Laziali” to learn in detail the history of the miracles of Santa Cristina. In the upper part of the town the “Church of San Salvatore” and the “Castello Rocca Monaldeschi” (which we have already encountered as soon as we entered the town) dominate the landscape. The entrance ticket to the Castle costs only €5 and allows you to visit the Territorial Museum of Lake Bolsena, the towers with a view of the lake and the Aquarium. If this is not enough for you, there is an immense lake with its shores that are just waiting for your visit.”
Santa Cristina – it was here in 1263,while a priest who doubted the concept of transubstantiation was consecrating the host, the bread he was blessing suddenly began to drip blood onto his hands and the cloth below. In response,the following year Pope Urban IV creathed the feast of Corpus Christi,now celebrated in Catholic Churches throughout the world. The miracle,along with the relics of 3rd c. martyr Santa Cristina made Bolsena a prime pilgrimage destination in its own right.The castle.These posters are ubiquitous and very tempting,too.
If the lake doesn’t tempt you to swim then possibly the pool at tonight’s Agriturismo will.
A view from Agriturismo Le Vigne,Via dell Vigne,Bolsena. “Nice big room and bathroom ⅊You can use the garden everyone has their place in front of the rooms Good breakfast with lots of choice Very clean Great location you can see on the Bolsena lake Located on Via Francigena” Review from October 2024
“Today, after many days, we are leaving Tuscany to enter Lazio, through the Etruscan territory of Tuscia. And the countryside of the hills goes to give way to a land located in the Paglio valley. And the people will tend to another style. The care of the medium, and the cleanliness, will not be so great. In any case, Acquapendente is a historic location that will make a good impression.” GRONZE
The walk profile is relatively flat after the descent from Radicofani . The slope from Radicofani along the old Via Cassia is one of the most beautiful and exciting tracks along the Via Francigena: surrounded by boundless hills and Mount Amiata, at your back the Rocca.The 10 km road stretch traverses the ancient Via Cassia and is like the above picture for much of the way. It is a shallow decline and which is a wide and easy track to follow with just the occasional vehicle passing. And,being a Sunday should be even quieter.The 10 km descent and ancient Via Cassia ends at Ponte a Rigo. Here a dilemma of sorts presents itself. A choice,in fact. If we turn left on to the official route to cross the Rigo, six of the next 10 KM is alongside the Via Cassia and is a busy through route- quieter on Sunday – A longer,harder and more scenic option is to walk the alternative route through Proceno, adding 8 KM .Initially the way is calm, making its way through the Settlement of Torricella (3.5 KM). A little further on after crossing the Torrente Elvella a right fork brings you to Centeno.Just before Centeno village you leave Tuscany and entered the Lazio region of Italy.In 1633, Centeno received its most famous visitor, when Galileo was quarantined for nearly three weeks due to a plague in Tuscany, while on his way to the Inquisition in Rome. It is now La Dogana Ristorante, which is highly recommended. ( All the guide books and blogs I have read so far recommend taking a bus or taxi from here to Acquapendente)La Dogana
It is a nine minute bus ride departing Centeno at 12.15, 14.00, 15.58 – fare €1.1. However, there may be fewer services on a Sunday .A taxi will cost €30.00. The Sloways app. has details of the alternative route which takes you off the road but is considerably longer.
What follows is an extract from a Pelegrina’s recent blog about which route to take. From “ Eva on the Francigena “:
“ I hung a left onto the path paralleling the Via Cassia, which after about an hour of cross-crossing the highway through fields and stands of trees, brought me into Centeno at 11:30. Now it was decision time. I could wait 20 minutes for the alleged bus — though I have less faith on Cotral (the Lazio bus network) than the Tuscan buses which seem to be reasonably reliable. If not, I could wait 30 minutes for the decent-looking trattoria in town to open. Or, I could try my luck further down the line and start walking the road. I had been observing the highway over the last hour and there really wasn’t that much traffic (certainly, I’ve seen worse in the last 80 days), so I decided to head onwards with courage and agility.
Really, this section was not that bad at all. There was almost always enough space to step aside onto a strip of grass when cars passed (every few minutes), and I got lucky that nobody passed me when I walked around curves, hemmed in by metal barriers. After maybe 30 minutes of this the route planners graciously directed me off the road to a small path immediately parallel to the highway, which the guidebook didn’t seem to know about.
Even better, about 5kms before Acquapendente, I passed a small bar / restaurant catering to pilgrims. So I would get to have lunch, after all.”
Hopefully, after which ever method/ route is chosen we reach Acquapendente.
OVERVIEW “Acquapendente is not just any stop on the ancient Via Francigena. Located in the province of Viterbo between Lazio and Tuscany, in fact, it is one of the centers of great tourist interest of Tuscia. Its strategic position allows you to admire both the local treasures and to reach in a short time Orvieto, Lake Bolsena, Siena and much more. Born around the Parish Church of Santa Vittoria between the 9th and 10th centuries in correspondence with the Via Francigena, the small village developed quickly and was a place of important passage and crossroads of people and commerce. Historical tradition reports a very important event for Acquapendente, probably occurred in the period of the struggles between the papacy and the empire; it is the “Miracle of the Madonna del Fiore” of 1166, after which the Aquesians would have rebelled against the imperial domination of Barbarossa. From this miracle originates the wonderful tradition of the “knives”, the floral paintings that are made for the feast of Our Lady of the Flower, on the third Sunday of May. Definitely worth a visit are the Basilica of the Holy Sepulchre, inside which there is a stone stained with blood from the Sepulchre of Christ, the City Museum, the Flower Museum and the Castle of Torre Alfina. Among the most traditional, widespread and renowned economic activities are those of craftsmanship, such as the art of ceramics and terracotta.” ITALIA.IT.The Town HallMedieval streetTHE MONKEY BAR – highly recommended for a Limoncello.Mural
Accommodation for this evening is in centrally situated Albergo Toscana. Piazza Nazario Sauro, 5 – IT 01021 Acquapendente
The restaurant is highly recommended “Tradition is not about preserving the ashes, but about passing on the living flame.” Thomas More. The accommodation,from what I can gather, whilst being acceptable , will be a little more basic than what we have come to expect so far. There is a laundry service. Check in from 2 pm. It is a short walk to the main Piazza Girolamo Fabrizio to pick up the Francigena. Girolamo Fabrizio , who lived from 1533 to 1619, was one of the greatest Italian anatomists and surgeons. In an era in which science and medicine were certainly not what they are today.
“It is worth preparing yourself for one of the hardest days of the Francigena. It is obviously so because of its length, but also because of its rugged profile and and long,final climb, from 300 to 814 m. The beauty of the landscape, still in the Val d’Orcia, classified as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, compensates for this.For almost the entire stage, which can cause anxiety, you will see Radicofani, an austere but at the same time charming village, located on the slopes of an ancient volcano.” GRONZE GUIDE
To walk the Via Francigena from Castiglione d’Orcia to Radicofani, follow the marked trail, which involves a descent towards the valley and a crossing of fords. A1 .
Traditional Francigena signage.Nearing Gallina
We shall need to plan for food and water carefully for this stage, since fountains and food stops are limited, with the only refreshment directly on the route is an agriturismo near Gallina. Otherwise a saunter into Gallina itself,1.1 KM to Ostella La Vecchia Posta.
The way will vary along the d’Orcia valley.
Vineyards and road walking, plus three torrentes to cross.
At this time of year the crossings should be straightforward.
2.6 KM from the Gallina turning brings you to Agriturismo Passalacqua, lunch available to pilgrims – it’s an organic farm directly on the path.
The road continues down towards the SR2 Via Cassia at the bottom of the hill where we turn right to walk up amongst vast field of hay or alfafa in season , heading towards high-tension power lines. The historic Church of San Pellegrino at Briccole is next. It was once a flourishing abbey.
This tiny,unrestored chapel is all that remains today.
The road turns to grass alongside a large pasture,continuing along the grassy road until reaching the Old Via Cassia at, where we turn right ,passing Agriturismo Sant’Alberto, where there is a pilgrim rest area. Going left at a fork we begin a long and sustained climb,ending at new SR2 Via Cassia. Crossing the road carefully we follow a gravel path, between the river Formone and the highway.
The path crosses under the SP478, then a long and sustained climb,past a sheep farm onwards up a narrow pathway to the left of the road that shields us from cars on the highway , with occasional glimpses of the tall tower of Rocca Radicofani above.
Looking at this night’s accommodation,at some point before Radicofani ,we veer left, off the SP478 to Agriturismo La Selvella. Sloways will doubtless inform us of our route.
Probably very welcome ! A recent review,below. “We stayed here whilst walking the Camino and it was by far the best place we have stayed. Marina, Amber and Janka made us feel extremely welcome. Nothing was too much trouble we were brought Gin & Tonics outside and when we were too tired to walk into the nearest village we were given lifts in and out. The place is ultra relaxing and laid back. Our rooms were lovely and we were lucky enough to stay for two nights. The pool is a great size and the pool area fabulous with great scenic views. We had the feast both nights, on the first night the soup was a tasty tomato soup and on the second it was made with fresh vegetables from the garden. We had gorgeous pastas both nights and on the first night wild boar and on the second lovely pork. The wine list is extensive and very good. The breakfast was very tasty with loads of choice great coffee and honeycomb honey to go with lovely yoghurt. We had a fabulous time and only hope we can come back for longer in the future and would thoroughly recommend as a great place to stay.”The aforementioned tower.
Then through woodlands enjoying views to the right, of a tall mountain.
Monte AmiataVia Roma in medieval Radicofani
The village stands astride a high ridge between Tuscany and Lazio.
The village is a picturesque cluster of neat,stone homes,shops and restaurants,and its heart is the Romanesque Church of San Pietro reconstructed after WWII bombings.San Pietro
This is Val d’Orcia, included in 2004 in the UNESCOWorld Heritage List. A unique encounter of art and nature, rich in evidence of the past, with a natural landscape redesigned during the Renaissance to reflect the ideals of ‘good government’ in the Italian city-state.
Superstition has often to do with numbers. I know that in some countries 13 is a very bad number. Well, in Italy, 13 is considered a lucky number, whilst fearing the number 17. Better be careful and do not plan anything important on a Friday 17, because it is considered a very bad day. Below is a link to a lighthearted article about superstitions in Italy.
So,we should have nothing to fear whilst walking on a “Friday 13th in Italy!”
It’s a short stage today, but a beautiful one,the reason is to break what would be 29 KM trek to Radocafani, including a long climb at the end of the day.
We shall depart along the Via Dante Alighieri, the pedestrian street,turning right on to the Via Matteoli,then left onto Via Garibaldi,some suburban walking then at a Y junction ( 1.2KM ), the road turns to gravel and climbs,sometimes steeply,leading to a fine view.
A view of Roca d’Orcia with its rectangular castle tower .
The road returns to concrete on the descent,but we follow arrows to the left, to enter the picturesque hamlet of Vignoni Alto.
“This village has a unique attraction – in traditional Italian towns and villages there is a main square in the centre. In Bagno Vignoni there is a pool 49 metres long and 29 wide, from the bottom of which bubble up a number of hot springs. The therapeutic qualities of the waters became renowned and attracted numerous pilgrims travelling the Via Francigena on their way to Rome, one of the main destinations for the Christian pilgrimages. It’s not possible to enter the central pool, but it is possible to enjoy a free warm bath in the springs at the adjacent Parco dei Mulini .” The springs have been visited by notable such as St Catherine of Siena,Pope PiusII AND Lorenzo the Magnificent.A great view of the Val d’Orcia from the castle archway. There should be an opportunity for coffee in the village.Agriturismo Le Querciole is the only other possible refreshment stop.
Leaving the village there is a sign to a pedestrian bridge over the River Orcia,however it has been closed for repairs,if not reopened, we continue downhill to the Via Cassia and cross via the auto bridge. Then veering right along a driveway to an Osteria, before which turning left on to the VF. We cross the SP323, passing a small vineyard and orchard on to a gravel road to Castiglione d’Orcia.
Castiglione our destination for today . A thousand-year-old village in the heart of Tuscany The charming town of Castiglione d’Orcia, in the province of Siena, is perched on one of the verdant hills of the Val d’Orcia, between rows of vineyards and roads lined with cypress trees. It is a typical Tuscan village, with stone and brick houses, offering beautiful views of the surrounding countryside. The charming if tiny central piazza of Castiglione d’Orcia, the Piazza il Vecchietta, is dedicated to the Senesi painter, sculptor and architect, Lorenzo di Pietro (1412-1480), known as Il Vecchietta. In the center of the cobbled and sloping piazza there is a beautiful travertine fountain. The cobblestone piazza and its lovely fountain were built in the 1600s, but the rest of the town consists mostly of beautifully preserved medieval structures and streets. We should have plenty of time to explore them. Link below.
Lodgings for this evening are in B&B II Vecchietta. B&B “The Old Lady”.
Il Vecchietta is a bed and breakfast located in a quiet street in the historic centre of Castiglione d’Orcia , where you can only find typical stone houses from the medieval era, and from which you can see the two main monuments of the place: the ruins of the Rocca Aldobrandesca and the imposing Rocca di Tentennano . Looking further you can admire the splendid hills of the Orcia valley, covered with woods, rows of vineyards and olive groves. The B&B takes its name from the Sienese painter of the 14th century, Lorenzo di Pietro, known precisely as “il Vecchietta”.
A RECENT REVIEW “The owners of Il Vecchietta, Sylvia and Arturo, were such welcoming and kind hosts and I could not have asked for a more wonderful stay, if only it was longer. Their beautiful B&B is on the Via Francigena pilgrim path located in the historic center of Castiglione d’Orcia. My room was spacious, well furnished and with a great view of the Rocca di Tentennano. The bathroom was also excellent. It was great having access to the communal kitchen after a long day of walking . Sylvia was very accommodating of my early start the next day with a delicious homemade breakfast prepared for me and goodies to go! Thank you both for your generous hospitality and I do hope to return.”
AMENContinuing through the old town and after next city gate we turn left, crossing the highway and railroad tracks , through some suburbia, onto a path. After 2.6 km, we follow the Strada Proviniale del Brunello,leading up hill.Archetypal Tuscan landscape with cypress trees. Anticipating quiet roads.The famous vineyards where Brunello di Montalcino is produced. Considered to be amongst Italy’s finest wines,produced from Sangiovese grapes. ( And one of Italy’s most expensive! )The Altesino winery.The Caparzo Winery.
The road continues along ridges with majestic views of the Tuscan countryside until we reach Torrenieri, with facilities.
“Torrenieri takes its name from a fortified outpost with a black (‘nero’) tower (‘torre’), either by virtue of having been built of dark stone or because the stone was blackened by fire. In 1452 Eleanor, Princess of Portugal, stayed here on her way to marry the emperor Federico III. Being on the Via Francigena, it is constantly traversed by pilgrims on their way to Rome. The diary of the travels of the Archbishop Sigeric from Canterbury describes the tower as having been a hostel from around the year 1,000 AD, but from the 12th-century became a private dwelling and later a castle. Dante may have stopped here during a trip to Rome. In the 14th-century several events in the town are recounted in the novel of the ninth day of the Decameron, by Giovanni Boccaccio. In the 18th-century census Torrenieri was described as “on the road from Siena to Rome, upon an easily accessible hill, entirely cultivated in vines and olives, the small castle of Torrenieri.”
Coffee, lunch, wine tasting…?Main route through the town. A bus can be taken to San Quiricio to avoid the climb if needed.A bronze sculpture of pilgrims’ feet next to the Church of Santa Maria Maddalena. From here one enters into the panoramic Val d’Orcia, following the ascent until reaching the stopping point at the church of San Quirico d’Orcia.For the next hour or so we follow the Strada Provinciale Celamonti ( SP137). This is a long, but gradual climb to a summit. Descending we should see the outline of San Quiricio on a ridge between two hills ahead.Not a lot of shade so we must be sure to have plenty of water aboard and a big hat!San Quirico was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004.
The accommodation for this evening is Hotel Palazzuolo, Via Santa Caterina, on the outskirts of the town. An 11 minute walk to Via Dante Alighieri, the way out of San Quirico.
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