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CAMINO PORTUGUESE 2026 PREVIEW. PORTO TO MATOSINHOS

That’s our destination.
The information for these previews is gathered from several guide books, the internet and my own memories, hopefully time hasn’t dimmed them ! The coastal Camino has become far more populated since I last walked it. See the table below.
The July numbers are now available. Both the Coastal and Central Routes were busier than last year. With St. James’ feast day on July 25, that week was busier than the rest of the month in Santiago. The 100 km cities still are very popular with just over 75% of walkers on the Central Route beginning in O’Porriño, Tui or Valença. On the Coastal Route, just over 35% began in Baiona or Vigo.

The 100 KM cities refers to minimum starting points long enough to obtain a Compostela.

After a morning sight seeing in Porto, at 2pm,we should gather outside the cathedral ,from whence we begin our first day’s saunter. Passport (Credencial) and its initial stamp at the Porto Cathedral (Sé do Porto) at the start of th from a tourist entrance or information desk to the right of the main entrance.

THE CATHEDRAL

Walking from Porto Cathedral to Praça da Ribeira is a short, scenic downhill stroll ,by heading towards the river, taking winding streets like Rua das Flores,passing the church of San Laurenco,down Rua de Santa Ana,then downhill along the Rua dos Mercadores,which will eventually bring us to the Cais da Ribeira,Porto’s waterfront.

Cais da Ribeira .
Porto’s historic, colorful, UNESCO-listed riverside district on the Douro RiverIt is known for its lively atmosphere, medieval alleys, cafes, restaurants, traditional *barcos rabelos* (port wine boats), and stunning views of the Dom Luís I Bridge.

We turn right,keeping the river on our left,following the coast all the way to Matasinhos,10 km.(I have walked a section of this route to the tram terminus ,a short way ,on a holiday , but never on a Camino, as in the past I took the Metro to Matosinhos Mercardo and began from there. So I am really looking forward to it.)

We shall be sauntering along pavements,cycle tracks and boardwalks for the next two days. We walk below the bridge and after 2.5 KM we should reach the mouth of the river and the Atlantic Ocean.

We then come to Foz de Douro through shaded gardens.

Foz do Douro is an upscale, picturesque district in Porto, Portugal, located where the Douro River flows into the Atlantic Ocean, known for its sandy beaches (like Praia da Luz), scenic promenades, historic forts (Castelo do Queijo, São João Baptista), elegant mansions, and trendy restaurants, offering a relaxed seaside atmosphere with natural beauty and luxury living. It’s an affluent area and quite a contrast to the bustle of nearby Porto.

Castelo de Queijo.
The fortress is so-called as the rocks it was built on supposedly resemble
cheese. The castle was designed by Miguel l’Ecole and completed in 1661.
Inside is a museum (admission charge) dedicated to Portugal’s commandos. The exhibits, maps, regimental insignia, weapons and photographs are mainly from the conflicts in Portugal’s former colonies in Africa – Angola and Mozambique.

We are now nearly at Matosinhos. The Camino enters the town along the beach front, turning into Av. De Republica, then a short walk to our accommodation for the evening.

“Very good value for money, clean room and with everything necessary. Well located in matosinhos, with the metro stop next door and many dining options nearby.” A RECENT REVIEW.

Matosinhos is a vibrant coastal city and municipality in Northern Portugal, just north of Porto, known for its extensive sandy beaches, bustling fishing port and famous for fresh seafood, with streets lined with restaurants grilling fish outdoors; also features municipal markets. It also features historical buildings, the Church of Matosinhos, and the MuMMa (Matosinhos Memory Museum).

THE OCEAN – Richard Hawley

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=_1dugEjcwAA&si=m2D4jqGLfXbI7vZs

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IT’s 2026 – TIME TO PREVIEW THE STAGES OF OUR CAMINO PORTUGUESE IN MAY. DAY ONE – TO PORTO.

5 Jan

**“Porto is a city where history is woven into every brick and the river flows with stories.”**

Thursday,14th May 2026 we fly to Porto,leaving at 12.25 and arriving @ 14.45. Allowing for airport clearance and transfer by taxis to The Log Porto Hotel, check in etc, we should have an evening before us.

It is a short walk from here to either the bus stop, or Estadio de Draga metro station should you wish to go into town.

**Andante Tour/Porto Card:** Offers unlimited travel for a set period, great for tourists. Buy at the station. Remember to endorse the ticket before boarding and when changing lines.

To get from Estádio do Dragão to São Bento by Porto Metro, take the Blue Line (Line B, C, or E) from Estádio do Dragão towards the city center, get off at Trindade Station, and then either walk (about 5-10 mins) or take a short connection to São Bento (Line D), though often the walk from Trindade is simplest for São Bento, as it’s a major hub. São Bento Railway Station

Admire the stunning entrance hall, adorned with approximately 20,000 blue-and-white azulejo tiles depicting scenes from Portuguese history. That’s a great place to start a tour of the city. NB to bring up a link just press slightly on it.

https://porto-north-portugal.com/porto-guide/porto-walking-tour-self-guided-1-day-foot.html

The above link is comprehensive, bear in mind that we have the next morning to further explore the city before meeting at the See ( cathedral),14.00 to get a stamp for your pilgrim passport and begin our first stage of walking to Matosinhos.

https://www.introducingporto.com/porto-cathedral

“Portuguese food isn’t just about taste; it’s about tradition, culture, and sharing stories over a meal.” Dinner could be taken here or back at the hotel. Classic Portuguese dishes feature fresh seafood, rich stews, pork, and iconic pastries, with highlights including Bacalhau à Brás (cod with potatoes/eggs), Caldo Verde(kale soup), savory Francesinha sandwich, pork/clam Carne de Porco à Alentejana, seafood Cataplana, grilled sardines, and sweet Pastéis de Nata, showcasing a blend of land and sea flavors.

“Classic Portuguese wines are famous for **Port** (fortified, from Douro), crisp **Vinho Verde** (young whites), rich reds from regions like **Douro**, **Dão**, and **Alentejo** (using grapes like Touriga Nacional, Castelão, Baga), and the unique fortified wines from **Madeira**, offering diverse styles from aromatic whites to bold, complex reds and sweet dessert wines.”

Of the several times I have visited Porto,one of the many highlights for me was the cable car journey across the river to Gaia and the port cellars

The cable car over the Douro in Porto is the **Teleférico de Gaia**, offering stunning aerial views of Porto’s historic center, the Douro River, the Dom Luís I Bridge, and Vila Nova de Gaia’s port wine cellars. This short, scenic 5-minute ride connects the riverside in Gaia (near the Beira Rio Market) to the upper Jardim do Morro, providing a relaxing way to see landmarks and avoid hills.
**Cost:** Varies, but typically around €7-€10 for a return trip, often including a free port wine tasting at a cellar.

From its construction in 1763 until the late 20th century the Torre dos Clérigos was the tallest building in Portugal. The climb up the steps is well worth the effort.

It’s your Camino so whether touring a city, or exploring a village on the way, everyone should feel free to follow their own interests be it gastronomy, history, sacred sites,sunbathing or people watching. I hope this short blog whets your appetite for what is to come.

Here’s a short list of essential Portuguese phrases for greetings, politeness, and basic communication:

Olá (Hello), Bom dia/Boa tarde/Boa noite (Good morning/afternoon/evening), Obrigado/Obrigada (Thank you – speaker’s gender dependent), Por favor (Please), Desculpe (Sorry/Excuse me), Sim/Não (Yes/No), Não entendo (I don’t understand), and Fala inglês? (Do you speak English?).

Greetings & Politeness

Olá / Oi: Hello / Hi (Olá is more standard, Oi is casual, common in Brazil).
Bom dia: Good morning (until noon).
Boa tarde: Good afternoon (noon to ~6 PM).
Boa noite: Good evening / Good night (after ~6 PM).
Como está? / Tudo bem?: How are you? / Everything good?.
Estou bem / Tudo bem: I’m well / All good (response).
Por favor: Please.
Obrigado/Obrigada: Thank you (men say Obrigado, women say Obrigada).
De nada: You’re welcome.
Com licença / Desculpe: Excuse me / Sorry.

Basic Communication & Travel

Sim / Não: Yes / No.
Não entendo: I don’t understand.
Fala inglês?: Do you speak English?.
Não falo português: I don’t speak Portuguese.
Onde é…? Where is…? (e.g., Onde é o banheiro? – Where is the bathroom?).
Quanto custa?: How much does it cost?.
Até logo / Tchau: See you later / Bye (Tchau is more casual).

DISCLAIMER- No wine was drunk during the compilation of this blog.

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“Oh I have been to Ludlow fairAnd left my necktie God knows where,And carried half way home, or near,Pints and quarts of Ludlow beer:” A E Housman

9 Dec

Sutton Coldfield Ramblers’ Christmas meal took place on Sunday,7th December,2025 at the Fishmore Hotel, a mile or so outside of Ludlow Town. One group was dropped off by the coach for a linear walk, the remaining ramblers disembarked at the hotel from whence there was a choice of two more walks. I chose the Town trail to be led by Ken and what a good choice this turned out to be.

Gathering outside the hotel in the drizzle but anticipatory spirits were high, nevertheless . I must have been 25 years or more since I was last in Ludlow where I came with two of the children who had chosen Ludlow Castle for history research topic.

The construction of the Ludlow Castle started around 1085, with many later additions in the following two centuries. It is one of the most interesting castles in the Marches, in a dominant and imposing position high above the river Teme. It features examples of architecture from the Norman, Medieval and Tudor periods. The building of the castle led to the development of Ludlow itself, at first grouped around the castle; the impressive ruins of the castle occupy the oldest part of Ludlow.

In the late 12th and early 13th centuries the castle was extended, and part of the grid pattern of streets immediately to the south was obscured by the enlarged outer bailey. From 1233 onwards the town walls were constructed; Ludlow Castle stood within the circuit of the walls.

Ludlow Castle has played a key role in some turbulent events in English history. One of its 14th-century owners, Roger Mortimer, helped his mistress Queen Isabella, in the overthrow of her husband King Edward II. In 1473, the Prince of Wales and his brother were held here before their mysterious death in the Tower of London. In 1502 Prince Arthur, Henry VII’s son and heir to the throne, died at Ludlow.

Ancient taxi rank spotted en route to town.

You get used to the blue plaques – there are over 500 listed buildings in Ludlow.

It was not an arduous climb by any means.

Sir John Betjeman was no mean judge! This board gives snapshots of what else there is to see in Ludlow.
Key Features:
**History & Architecture:** A well-preserved Norman street pattern with hundreds of historic buildings, dominated by the 11th-century Ludlow Castle on a hill above the River Teme.
**Food & Drink:** Known for its exceptional food scene, with Michelin-starred restaurants, delicious local produce, and the popular Ludlow Marches Food & Drink Festival.
**Markets:** A thriving market takes place in Castle Square several days a week, offering local goods, antiques, and crafts.
**Culture:** A lively town with numerous festivals, including music, Shakespeare, and food events, using the castle as a backdrop.
**Scenery:** Set within the picturesque South Shropshire countryside, ideal for walking, cycling, and exploring the Welsh Marches, with Mortimer Forest nearby.

Must-Sees:
**Ludlow Castle:** Explore the ruins of this formidable Norman fortress.
**St Laurence’s Church:** A magnificent, large parish church with stunning stained glass.
**Whitcliffe Common:** Wooded common with great views over the River Teme.
**Broad Street:** Wander past historic pubs, independent shops, and unique architecture.

Good to Know:
**“Loud Waters Hill”:** The name Ludlow comes from Old English, meaning “loud waters hill,” referring to the River Teme rapids.
**Base for Exploration:** A great hub for discovering Shropshire and the Marches.

A picture window with a difference by the square. By now we were up for elevenses…

“ Hidden away within an ancient courtyard, the Rose & Crown is Ludlow’s oldest pub, there are documents showing that there was an ale house on this site in 1102. It boasts a 13th century mullioned window with trefoil in the rear stone wall.
Following a careful restoration, we have created a more spacious pub but still with intimate areas to relax. A hidden fireplace has been exposed and beams have been revealed which had remained hidden since the 1960’s. The emphasis is on ancient and characterful wood, in all its styles – some old, some new – the flooring is oak, blended with old quarry tiling and reclaimed parquet. The original pub has been enhanced by a fantastic panelled ‘Mouse room’, sister to our brewers hall here at the Brewery in Market Drayton. Bar patrons are invited to search for all the wooden mice carved by Robert “Mouseman” Thompson.” Thanks to the Joules’ Brewery website.

June asking Mike if there really were mice in this room..

Yes there are several which were pointed out to us by a friendly and informative local.

We walked on eventually passing the Butter Cross and then another famous hostelry.

The Feathers. By now it was approaching 13.00 and time for the group to reconvene.

The meeting place. It was just before reaching here that we bumped into Sue who pointed out an alley way that led to the parish church.

The Parish Church of St Laurence. In my years of meanderings and Caminos I have been fortunate to visit many ecclesiastical sites but this was to prove to be exceptional.
Saint Laurence’s Church was established as a place of worship when the Normans founded Ludlow in the late 11th century. It is situated in the centre of Ludlow on the hill around which the medieval town developed.

The church is a member of the Greater Churches Group and is the largest parish church in Shropshire. It was one of only 18 churches given a five-star rating in England’s Thousand Greatest Churches by Simon Jenkins (1999) and is described as the “cathedral of the Marches”. The tower is 135 feet (41 metres) high and commands excellent views of the town and surrounding countryside. Notable features include an extensive set of misericords in the choir stalls as well as fine stained glass windows.

Stained glass.
After its initial Norman construction in the 11th Century AD, the church was expanded and rebuilt in 1199 to accommodate Ludlow’s growing population. During the late Middle Ages Ludlow became a wealthy wool town, to befit this growing prosperity St Laurence’s underwent several further additions. The major works occurred between 1433 and 1471 with a virtual re-building of the nave, tower and chancel elements. The tower took on a Perpendicular style which was fashionable in England in the 15th century.

Had there been more time I should have liked to have accepted the invitation to a tour by one of the friendly guides on hand. I have been in far less impressive Cathedrals.
The church is a member of the Greater Churches Group and is the largest parish church in Shropshire. It was one of only 18 churches given a five-star rating in *England’s Thousand Greatest Churches* by Simon Jenkins (1999) and is described as the “cathedral of the Marches“.^[2][3] It is the 13th most popular free visitor attraction in the West Midlands, with 70,000 visitors per year.^Wikipedia^….

One of many interesting alleyways as we made our way back to the hotel.

No crackers to pull but Trish had a great headdress.

We enjoyed a convivial evening before returning to SC by coach.

The Shropshire Lad, III

A. E. Housman

A.E. Housman, the famous poet, had a deep connection to Ludlow, Shropshire, featuring it prominently in his collection A Shropshire Lad, with poems like “The Recruit” and “When smoke stood up from Ludlow” depicting its landscapes, towers, and local life, and his ashes are buried in St. Lawrence’s Church there, marked by a cherry tree.

            THE RECRUIT

Leave your home behind, lad,
    And reach your friends your hand,
And go, and luck go with you
    While Ludlow tower shall stand.

Oh, come you home of Sunday
    While Ludlow streets are still
And Ludlow bells are calling
    To farm and lane and mill,

Or come you home of Monday
    When Ludlow market hums
And Ludlow chimes are playing
    ‘The conquering hero comes’,

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TWENTY FOUR HOURS,OR SO IN WORCESTER - 21-22 OCTOBER ‘25

21 Oct

Invitation to my sister Penny’s new place of abode in Worcester- also a chance to catch up with my brother Matt and brother-in-law Tony. Penny has been in the house since August and overseen several improvements, particularly to the garden and surrounding shrubbery. With the weather looking better than forecast we set off for a walk .

These amazing fungi were in a neighbouring front garden.

Very quickly we came upon a park after crossing a stream.

Autumnal colours along Barbourne Brook. The first thing to catch our attention was a striking sculpture.

GHELUVELT is also the name of the park .

The bandstand was located above the pond and we could just imagine a summer scene with live music .
Throughout the summer bands regularly perform on the bandstand.

We walked to our coffee stop – the recently restored Victorian pump house which is also an environmental centre.

An almost brand new Footbridge across the River Severn

The Severn,200 miles and the longest river in England.

After a few hundred metres, the towpath took us by some riverside residences fortified in different ways against flooding.

A decorative descent to the river – hope the garden furniture doesn’t float away .

Trees – Self Optimising Structures…if you get my drift.

Worcestershire Race Course across the river .

Taking us towards another impressive footbridge.

“Keep On Running” or in our case rambling!

Railway Bridge corner,galloping towards the finish…

The University has a number of campuses around the city.We were bound for The Infirmary ( no jokes please ) – being a Monday it was one of the few sites open.

The Infirmary Museum is an interactive exhibition at the University of Worcester’s City Campus combining history, science, art and technology to explore the medical stories of one of England’s oldest infirmaries.

WORCESTER ROYAL INFIRMARY
Worcester Infirmary operated from this site from 1771 until 2002 and in that time observed many advances in healthcare and innovation. Those who worked here also proved instrumental and the exhibition and tours aim to convey these important discoveries. For example, local man Sir Charles Hastings presided over the first meeting of the Provincial Medical and Surgical Association in July 1832. The organisation which later became the British Medical Association and continues to print the British Medical Journal sharing the results and research by medical professionals to improve the lives of many.
Worcester Infirmary was granted ‘Royal’ status on a visit from HRH Prince of Wales in 1932 and subsequently was referred to as WRI. The records and archives of the historic building and activities at Castle Street, as well as the first infirmary in the city at Silver Street are held in the hive and the George Marshall Medical Museum and are available for research purposes.

Only one large room but designed brilliantly.

The museum’s collections include information and research about former patients of the Worcester City and County Pauper Lunatic Asylum, also known as Powick Asylum.

Three examples of inmate records-a fascinating feature within the Infirmary collection.

An exceptional little museum and a thoroughly enjoyable and informative visit.

We had aperitifs in this amazing local – apart from great beer the inside was filled with curios, sketches and photos, many of which we enjoyed recognising.

TUESDAY MORNING’S VISIT TO THE MUSEUM

Housed in an elegant Victorian building in the heart of Worcester, the Art Gallery and Museum is a warm and friendly place with exhibitions, events and activities for all the family to enjoy throughout the year.

Just before a side entrance to the museum we came upon these figures perched on the end of a van. We later discovered thst they were part of a temporary collection which was being dismantled.

Our attention was taken by another temporary exhibition.

Watercolours of many of Worcester’s historic buildings by Jilly Oxlade-Arnott

The facade of Worcestershire Cathedral
Jilly Oxlade-Arnott started her professional artistic career in Worcester, studying its abundant heritage.
Now an established international artist, this welcome return unveils new work depicting the city’s historic architecture.

We packed a lot into 24 very enjoyable hours and Worcester is a great city to pass time in – so much history – and that mighty river. Thanks to Penny,Matt and Tony for being such good city guides and great company.

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FAREWELL,A CORUNA. Sunday,21st Sept.

22 Sep

Dining / cooking area – a great apartment.

We left the apartment, Gallerias Pequenas, AIRbnB at 07.30 dropped off some non – organic rubbish – walked along quiet ,recently washed streets en route to the underground parking bay, a seven minute walk away. Card payment then up and off towards the city limits, passing a police patrol car half blocking the road – either drugs or alcohol – waved through and in no time at all out of the city onto the Auto via 8 ,direction Lugo. As deserted as expected and the only occasional hazard were sloughs of fog – coming across these for the next hour as it turned out.

The estimated journey time from A Coruna to Santander port is 4 hr 15 mins. I anticipated we should get there by 12.45, allowing for a coffee break. The Brittany ferry departure time was 14.00.

Unlike English motorways, Services stops in Spain tend not to be adjacent to the Motorway, but slightly off via a roundabout – this means they are in quieter settings – restful and fully serviced.

I took on some fuel before coffee and snacks in a pastoral setting, complete with children’s’ play area and sea and mountain views- This may seem like a minor detail, but it typifies the Spanish, long distance driving experience- uncrowded, no hold ups in roadworks and more for the passengers – some lovely views.

They have to put up with me occasionally pointing out at direction signs and exclaiming ,” I stopped there on the Ingles or Norte Camino “.

Eventually, after leaving Galicia we drove through the foothills of the Picos de Europa – awesome peaks – in the Asturias, after the traffic got a little busier around Oviedo and Gijon,mainly people en route to the beaches. We wished we had time to revisit San Vicente de Barquera, remembering a great camping stay there with the children in years gone by.

The drive off the Autovia to the ferry port in Santander is further than you might expect but we made good time by 12.50.

A view from the queue of our ferry, the fairly new as it turned out SANTONA .
**Santoña** is a town in the eastern coast of the autonomous community of Cantabria, on the north coast of Spain. It is situated by the bay of the same name. It is 45 kilometres (28 mi) from the capital Santander.

I am always amazed at the capacity of these ferries.

Meanwhile, back on board we discovered that each cabin area has a “ legend” – on deck nine – we discovered that ours was the Camino de Santiago !

The cabinin was Ensuite with a porthole and more spacious than the outward crossing.

A cloudy start to Monday morning but a calm sea.

An hour or so off Portsmouth. A very calm crossing and a pleasant end to the North Western Spain road trip. The driving was a pleasure and unstressful. A Coruna is not well known in the UK – which for me is not a complaint – I cannot recall a visit too highly and the rest of Galicia,too.
**Either during the day or at night, there is always life here**. This is a city for strolling and enjoying oneself, with **beaches** beaches in the city centre and, with the **Tower of Hércules**overlooking it, a long **promenade** which goes almost all the way around.
The inhabitants of A Coruña are famous for living well, so follow their example. Sit at a café on the main square known as **Plaza de María Pita** and discover its fascinating history. Or stroll along the area of the Cantones and admire the famous **glass windows**, from the Modernist period. And if you would like to go shopping this is the perfect place, especially if you want to dress in style.
Also, **A Coruña** has excellent museums, such as the **Fine Arts museum**, the **Science Museum**, the **Domus** or the **Archaeological museum**, located in the **San Antón castle**. And towards sunset, there is nothing like the cosy and romantic **San Carlos gardens** or if you prefer entertainment, the **Méndez Núñez garden**, right in the centre of the city. This is where the **Kiosko Alfonso** is located, which today is an exhibit centre and was formerly a cinema with two rooms separated by the screen, so you paid a lower fee if you watched the movie from behind the screen..

https://www.turismo.gal/que-visitar/cidades/a-coruna?langId=en_US

The above link is well worth a view.

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A CORUNA – The Last Saunter up to Monte San Pedro Park – Fri.19/09, and Remembering Rosalia de Castro.

20 Sep

“I see my path, but I don’t know where it leads. Not knowing where I’m going is what inspires me to travel it.”Rosalia de Castro

The destination is bottom left hand side, starting beyond the beach.

Leaving the beach behind we came upon the Obelisco Milenium.

**The Millennium Tower** is a monument built in the shape of an obelisk and located on the seafront of A Coruña. This tower was inaugurated on January 1, 2000, as the objective of this work was and is to commemorate the beginning of the 21st century.
This
**Obelisk** , which was born under the mantle of
**the Tower of Hercules** and the
**Obelisk of the Cantones** , reference works of A Coruña, is the work of the architect
**Antonio Desmonts** , and the drawings that decorate it are made by the author
**Gerardo Porto** .
The construction of the
**Millennium Tower** was not easy, since the work
**measures approximately 50 meters** and is made up of more than
**170 rock crystals** that arrived in the city of A Coruña from Holland.

Furthermore, thanks to its drawings, this monument depicts different
**historical scenes from the city of A Coruña,** including, for example, images of
**Christopher Columbus’s caravels** , the
**Battle of Elviña** , and, of course, the portrait of the city’s heroine:
**María Pita** .

This obelisk is also unique in that it houses more than
**140 spotlights** , allowing visitors to discover the unique features of all the drawings depicted there at night.

There is a funicular running up the mountainside but it was not operative and so we turned right and walked up along a shady pathway.

There were welcome drinking water fountains en route.

This park was formerly a defensive point converted for the enjoyment of citizens and tourists since 1999. It has an extension of more than 90,000 square meters where you can do all kinds of hobbies. You can fly a kite, lie on the grass or watch the sunset. In addition, it has a great tourist attraction which are the **two Vickers pieces of** more than 17 meters of altitude that were acquired in 1929 and installed in 1933, made in the UK.

They were used on one occasion to deter German submarines.

But one of the main attractions of Monte de San Pedro are its evocative views. On one side you will see the Atlantic Ocean and the coastline to Arteixo and the Sisargas Islands that belong to Malpica de Bergantiños. And on the other side in the first term, the city and the Costa Artabra with the Ría de A Coruña, where we will find Mera, Santa Cruz and the coast of Oleiros and in the second term the Ría de Betanzos, the Ría de Ares, the Ría de Ferrol and the coast up to its outer harbour.

Once at the top you will also find the only 360-degree covered viewpoint in Spain, the **Cúpula Atlántica**.

It was well worth the climb upwards and downwards.

On a counter in a cafe on the way back – Membrillo!

This is the Rosalia de Castro Theatre just a few metres from our apartment .

Rosalia De Castro was a highly acclaimed and influential Galician writer and poet. Born on February 24, 1837, in Santiago de Compostela, Spain, she played a pivotal role in the revival of Galician literature and language during the 19th century.
Her works were praised for their lyricism, emotional depth, and ability to capture the essence of Galician culture. Through her writing, De Castro sought to raise awareness about the social inequalities and injustices faced by the Galician people, as well as celebrate their unique language, customs, and folklore.

A remarkable woman with a strong social conscience, de Castro’s antecedents were probably influential in predisposing her to identify with her poor and exploited countrymen. She was the illegitimate daughter of a priest. Her mother came from a well-to-do family, but de Castro spent the first 14 years of her life in the country. When she was 14, de Castro was ‘reclaimed’ by her mother. She missed her country life intensely and no doubt her poems grew out of her feeling of longing and homesickness for the countryside, and the only home she had ever known until she was displaced. The sense of something longed for and unfulfilled in these poems is so honest and sincere and uncontrived, that to read them is to almost directly experience them oneself.
I suspect it was de Castro’s fervour and intensity which led to the her being able to accomplish as much as she did in a relatively short life. She died of Cancer at the age of 48. It seems clear that de Castro had a premonition she would not live long, and this sense of life’s brevity and fragility lends the keenest possible edge to her writing. We are blessed indeed to be her literary beneficiaries and to be able to relish her remarkable work, and through them to hear her lovely voice.

The first time I was made aware of Rosalia and her legacy was on a solo pilgrimage from Porto, 15 years ago when my hotel in Padron was next door to a museum dedicated to her life. Every city and town in Galicia will have at least a street with her name.

Good-bye Rivers, Good-bye Fountains.

Little chirping birds,
Darling cottage of my joy,
Mill in the chestnut wood,
Clear nights of brilliant moonlight,
Cherished ringing bells
Of the tiny parish church,
Blackberries in the brambles
That I used to give my love,
Narrow footpaths through the cornfields,
Good-bye, for ever good-bye!
Good-bye, heaven! Good-bye, happiness!
I leave the house of my birth,
I leave the hamlet that I know
For a world I haven’t seen!
I leave friends for strangers,

I leave the lowland for the sea,
I leave, in short, what I well love…
Would I didn’t have to go!
But I’m poor and—base sin!—
My sod is not my own
For even the shoulder of the road
Is loaned out to the wayfarer
Who was born star-crossed.
I must therefore leave you,
Small orchard I loved so,
Beloved fireplace of home,
Dear trees that I planted,
Favourite spring of the livestock.

Good-bye, good-bye, I’m leaving,
Hallowed blades of grass in the churchyard
Where my father lies buried,
Saintly blades of grass I kissed so much,
Dear land that brought us up.
Good-bye Virgin of the Assumption
White as a seraph,
I carry you in my heart:
Plead with God on my behalf,
Virgin of the Assumption mine,
Far, very far away hear
The church bells of Pomar;
For hapless me—alas—
They shall never ring again.
Hear them still farther away
Every peal deals out pain,
I part alone without a friend…
Good-bye land of mine, good-bye!
Farewell to you too, little darling…!
Farewell forever perhaps…!
I send you this farewell crying
From the precious coastline.
Don’t forget me, little darling,
If I should die of loneliness…
So many leagues offshore…
My dear house! My home!
**A poem by Rosalia de Castro**

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A CORUNA – Thursday, 18 th September Walkabout – monuments,flora and views.

19 Sep

Misty morning up at the Tower of Hercules. It began to clear later on in the morning.

Rocky coves and outlying rock formations make you realise why a lighthouse was built all those centuries ago .
The Tower of Hercules is the only fully preserved Roman lighthouse that is still used for maritime signaling, hence it is testimony to the elaborate system of navigation in antiquity and it provides an understanding of the Atlantic sea route in Western Europe. The Tower of Hercules was restored in the 18th century in an exemplary manner, which has protected the central core of the original Roman monument while restoring its technical functions.
**Criterion (iii):** The Tower of Hercules is testimony to the use of lighthouses in antiquity. The Tower is also proof of the continuity of the Atlantic route from when it was first organised by the Romans, during a large part of the Middle Ages, and through to its considerable development in the modern and contemporary eras.
**Integrity and Authenticity**
The architectural integrity of the property, in the sense of a structurally complete building, and its functional integrity are satisfactory. While the authenticity of the central Roman core is certain, the authenticity of the building only makes sense when judged from the point of view of a technological property that has required numerous renovations and functional adaptations.

The area around the lighthouse is protected though very accessible.

A customs patrol boat – drug smuggling is a problem.

During the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939), this was the site of a Muslim cemetery for soldiers from the Maghreb. Their remains were later moved to the San Amaro Cemetery, and although they were repatriated in 1957, a commemorative plaque can still be seen there. Today, the walls are adorned with texts referring to the city, in Latin, Greek, Arabic, Gaelic and old Spanish, which is why we now call it the House of Words.

A sudden swathe of mist across the beach.

Walking back to the main square we came across the church of San Jorge.

Sense of humour – good news for anyone with a baby giraffe.

A view of one of the towers from our dinner table .

In the square were a whole range of electric powered cars – someone must have thought that a Galician pipe band would encourage sales.

Cars came through this arch,after a brief commentary and were further accompanied by flashing lights and exhalations of steam!

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The name A Coruña is derived from the Phoenician ‘k . arn, meaning ‘the horn’, symbolizing its geographical prominence A CORUNA – Tuesday,16th September ‘25

17 Sep

“In Coruña, people sit around on the sea walls or the rocks and stare out to sea, as if they expect Francis Drake to turn up again and sack the city. A contemplative lot, the Galicians”.

THE OLD TOWN

After obtaining maps from the Turismo in the Praza Maria Pita, the walkabout began by the imposing statue of the city’s most loved historical figure,Maria Pita,symbol of the defence of the citizens of Coruna against the attack by the English in 1589.

It is said that the English attackers opened a breach in the wall and began the assault on the old city. During the assault, they killed Gregorio de Rocamunde, María Pita’s husband; she, filled with rage, snatched the lance from the English flag and, with it, killed the ensign leading the assault. He was the brother of Admiral Francis Drake.
This demoralized the 12,000-strong English force and forced its retreat. Tradition says this was carried out to the cry (in Galician) of ”
*Quen teña honra, que me siga”* (which in Spanish means “whoever has honor, follow me”).)

The next stop was at the house and museum of Maria Pita

The building has been completely restored by an inventive use of mezzanine floors.

The convent on this leafy square was founded in the 14th century and was later incorporated into the Franciscan order. The nuns are cloistered and there contact with the rest of humanity is through this hatch

A cooling fountain en route to the Garden of San Carlos.

There seemed to be flowers and shrubbery at every turn.

The site once contained a stronghold built outside the city walls during the 14 th century and annexed to the city in the 16th century. It gradually became less important as a fortress and when its arsenal exploded,killing 200 people, it was abandoned until it was restored in the 18 th century as a garden .

It is divided into segments containing plants, trees and flowers from all the world’s continents

The garden of San Carlos is one of the most unique green spaces in A Coruña. It is a “hortus conclusus” created around the grave of the general Sir John Moore, Hero of the Battle of Elviña, who died in 1809.
In 1830, at the initiative of the British Government, a stone funeral chest dedicated to General Moore was erected on the site, and in 1834, Governor Francisco Marracedo transformed the grounds once again by creating an enclosed garden sheltered from the winds. The project, carried out by the local architect José María de Noya, created an oval space crossed by a set of radial paths starting from the centre, where the grave is located. The vegetation is distributed in flowerbeds, where there are several monumental centenary elm trees, currently included in the catalogue of singular trees of Galicia.

The garden still preserves elements of the old fortress, such as the sentry boxes and the wall, and has a spectacular viewpoint overlooking the city’s port.

The church of Santiago,probably the oldest of the many churches in Coruña.

The tympanum depicts St James on horseback

The beginning of the Camino Ingles adjacent to the church.

The renowned Galleries of glass facing the port.

A stroll along the seafront- the Paseo Maritimo – in glorious weather.

Walking further along – the site of Corona’s most famous landmark.

The Tower of Hercules has served as a lighthouse and landmark at the entrance of La Coruña harbour in north-western Spain since the late 1st century A.D. when the Romans built the Farum Brigantium. The Tower, built on a 57 metre high rock, rises a further 55 metres, of which 34 metres correspond to the Roman masonry and 21 meters to the restoration directed by architect Eustaquio Giannini in the 18^th century, who augmented the Roman core with two octagonal forms. Immediately adjacent to the base of the Tower, is a small rectangular Roman building. The site also features a sculpture park, the Monte dos Bicos rock carvings from the Iron Age and a Muslim cemetery. The Roman foundations of the building were revealed in excavations conducted in the 1990s. Many legends from the Middle Ages to the 19th century surround the Tower of Hercules, which is unique as it is the only lighthouse of Greco-Roman antiquity to have retained a measure of structural integrity and functional continuity.

The walkabout was about nine miles in total and there are still plenty of things to see…on another day. A Coruna is fast becoming my favourite of all the Spanish cities visited over the many years of visiting Spain.

Dinner time starting with Padron Peppers and a bottle of ALBARINHO

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SUNDAY BEGINS WITH A WALK UPSTREAM ALONGSIDE THE DUERO

14 Sep

Restored Mill on the edge of the Medieval bridge.

The **Douro** (UK: /ˈdʊəroʊ, ˈdʊəruː/, US: /ˈdɔːruː, ˈdɔːroʊ/,^[1][2][3][4] Portuguese: [ˈdo(w)ɾu], Mirandese: [ˈdowɾʊ]; Spanish: **Duero** [ˈdweɾo]; Latin: *Durius*) is the largest river of the Iberian Peninsula by discharge. It rises near Duruelo de la Sierra in the Spanish province of Soria, meanders briefly south, then flows generally west through the northern part of the Meseta Central in Castile and León into northern Portugal. Its largest tributary (carrying more water than the Douro at their confluence) is the right-bank Esla.^[5] The Douro flows into the Atlantic Ocean at Porto, the second largest city of Portugal.

We crossed the bridge and turned right,walking upto the “ Palace Gardens”,continuing along the Paseo Juana I de Castilla. The pavement turned to a dirt trail just beyond the Monasterio de Santa Clara.

**The monastery has a fascinating history.**
The monastery of the Poor Clares of Tordesillas has its origin in a palace built by Alfonso XI of Castile to commemorate the Battle of the Salado River (1340), where Leonor de Guzmán (1310-1351), the king’s lover, resided. Once she died, it passed into the hands of the widowed queen Maria of Portugal (1313-1357), and finally it was the property of Maria de Padilla († 1361), lover of Pedro I the Cruel (1334-1369). In 1362, Peter I left the palace to the Poor Clares in his will, with the aim of establishing a new monastery for that order. The convent was founded by Infanta Beatriz of Castile in 1363 with royal approval and a papal bull authorizing it in 1365. Despite this change, which meant the conversion of the royal palace into a convent, the monastery remained closely linked to the crown. A new palace was built next to it, and the monarchs remained closely associated with Tordesillas, favoring the community.

For the new functions of the house, the palace was adapted as a monastery using a temporary chapel (the Long Choir) until the monastic church was built next to it in the late 14th and early 15th centuries. During this same period, the house underwent reforms in terms of observance, introducing stricter rules and eventually forming a congregation that enjoyed a certain independence, until, at the beginning of the 16th century, it was incorporated into the regular observance of the Order of the Poor Clares. In 1509, Queen Joanna I of Castile (Joanna the Mad) was confined to the monastery palace, where she remained, practically isolated, until her death in 1555.

It was a monastery with a very large community thanks to royal patronage, which also made it possible to avoid the effects of the confiscations, nor did it suffer the effects of the French occupation in 1808. Overall, it is a construction with decorative elements in the Mudejar style, despite the modifications made to the original palace to adapt it as a monastic house and the successive reforms that were carried out, the complex preserves many ancient elements and a large and valuable furniture, which thanks to its unique protection characteristics, have been able to be preserved.

A typical section of the pathway with river to the right.

The reflection of the A VI as we passed beneath.

The river seems much fuller and deeper than at Tordesillas. After a while we retraced our steps…

We made our way back through the riverside cafe where had a drink the other night and it was packed with locals,still celebrating the Fiesta,red is the chosen colour.

Fairs and festivals on the occasion of the Day of the Virgen de la Guía, patron saint of the town. The date varies depending on the day of the week when September 8th falls
The Festivities always start on a Saturday with the “Lantern Parade”, in which the clubs compete to see who carries the most original lantern. The following Tuesday the famous “Toro de la Vega” takes place, declared of Regional Tourist Interest, being one of the most traditional bullfighting celebrations within the national panorama. –

Four of these on the go at the Tordeplaya, with a long line of tables bedecked in red paper table tops.

Another bullish evening in Tordesillas.

A great place – hopefully we’ll be back. Tomorrow we drive northbound to A Coruna.

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TORDESILLAS “ A PLACE OF PRIVILEGE AND A LOT OF BULLS”

13 Sep

You meet him just after you cross the bridge into the town.

Friday, 12th and Saturday 13th September 2025

Towards the end of yesterday’s journey, a passing car driver pointed to the front of the car,indicating a problem. This morning ,after perusing underneath the car,I noticed some sort of rubber flap hanging down from below engine. Campsite Reception were really helpful,ringing their reliable and much used garage – unfortunately they were closed – shut down for a holiday! Therefore it meant a phone call to the breakdown service who after a lengthy discussion,promised a mechanic would be on site within 90 minutes.

We moved the car to the front of the site,in the car park hoping this would make it more accessible than by the bungalow.

It took 3 hours before a mechanic came and “ sort of sorted it”. He jacked the car up and unscrewed a kind of rubberised tray from underneath the engine . He assured us that it would not affect the engine and to continue driving and to get it fixed back in the UK….So be it.

Strolled then into Tordesillas to the Dia supermarket and enjoyed the different experience of shopping abroad – especially pleasant was the lady behind the vast butcher’s stall who cut me up some beloved Morcilla sausage. Other goodies included some aioli and a jar of interesting flavouring for meat and salads, lime and chilli, and the wine,of course.