June | 2024 | ensuitepilgrim's Blog

Archive | June, 2024

A FREE DAY TO SAUNTER AROUND SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA.

22 Jun

I’ve lost count of the number of times I have been to Santiago but I enjoy it just as much,everytime .

My favourite Camino breakfast – Tostada y Tomate ,a little cheese and ham with the negra. The Camino is coming to terms with a growing taste for tea in Spain. I want that teapot!

First port of call this morning was the Pilgrim Office to obtain the Compostela certificate, the mileage certificate and the essential tube in which to store them – €5.00 for the mileage certificate and the tube ; the Compostela is free. Very efficient process.

Both the grounds of the Pilgrim office and Certification process have improved immeasurably in 20 years.

The best signpost walking back to the hotel.

I have walked through 27 of these places over the years – I have been very fortunate – where next? Not sure.

Ecclesiastical architecture at every turn.

Great to see youngsters enjoying the Camino – they were tapping their sticks in tune to the piper just below. I have yet to work out a tune!

The Piper at the Gates of Dawn – PINK FLOYD

https://music.youtube.com/playlist?list=OLAK5uy_l8UEy84ThXxsnI_WxAg_UW0TXqK6nBMO8&si=FJYRIyu-PRGLZ6VU

Next stop,was the Asbastos Market

Pleasantly uncrowded but full of tasty and tempting things to eat and drink.

Bundles of herbs brought in from the countryside

Orujo in several guises plus local wines

You would need a tool set to get into these

A tiny square next to the market – perfect for coffee and people watching – Alphonso II was was looking on in the background.

Over two dozen different fillings in these mini empanadas.

We met up in the cathedral square as arranged for group photos.

Sitting in the shade in a beautiful garden.

Birthday drinks on Richard – 🥂 feliz cumpleaños!

Comments Leave a Comment
Categories Uncategorized

DAY XIV – FROM ARZUA TO SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA – THE FINAL SAUNTER

21 Jun

Mural in O Pedrouzo.
Estimated distance today is 21 km – 12.5 miles – By the time we found the hotel in S de C it was 13.5 miles,walked mainly in drizzle.

We left A RUA at 08.10, a fine mizzle was falling. Opposite the exit, on the edge of a farmyard was a nicely situated Horreos.

After an hour’s walking we reached a point 15 KM from Santiago. A bar called 15 Km in fact. We obtained a sello / stamp for our pilgrim passports and after doing so we saw a long line of secondary school children trundling along. We decided to get some coffee and give them time to move on.

An imaginative table napkin of today’s final route.

On any Camino you can expect to come upon unusual statues, shrines and even memorials of a pilgrim who died along the way.

And over the years some pilgrims leave stones for any number of reasons.

The most important signs are the granite distance markers, often placed to guide you on the right path at an intersection.

Hydrangeas thrive in Galicia – I particularly liked this blue / white variety- Horreos as backdrop.

A shot of a well designed kitchen garden / la Huerta

Two hours or so further on we came by a campsite, which I remembered passing five years ago and it looked to be very popular – it was closed and only the cafe seemed to be functioning, with a couple of Camino trinket stalls in the reception car park.

The rain was increasing and so we dived into the cafe and ordered two hot boccadillos with bacon & cheese.

The bread was “ bap” like and made for a really delicious combination. They are no longer boccadillos but **Bapadillos – Spanglais.** I told one of the ladies serving that they were the best on the Camino for which I got a grateful Gracias and a lovely 😃.

We were not far from Mount Gozo now – Mount of Joy – today it was no joy as Santiago and the cathedral spires lay hidden below the misty rain.

After the descent from Mount Gozo we entered the outskirts of Santiago – I know from past experience that it’s still,a long walk until,you reach the historic centre of the city.

Some parkland as well,as the usual suburban sprawl.

San Lázaro’s church en route to the centre. In the Middle Ages this was the closest lepers could come to,the Cathedral.

San Lázaro is regarded as **a humble saint of health and healing who soothes the sick, especially immigrants and people living in poverty**. He is also known as the “god of crossroads” who guides people in making difficult decisions.

We eventually reached the historic centre of Santiago and its famous square the Pzaza da Obradoiro

What follows are a series of photos of the group celebrating the completion of their Caminos.

Those boots look big - they have been great !

Mike – relieved and thankful as we all were.

The Silhillians made it too and delighted they were – they have been great first time Pelegrinos – we are all going to get together tomorrow for a group photo in the square – as we all arrived at different times this afternoon .

We received a tip off that some Americans had paid for the Botafumeiro to be swung at the 7.30 pm Pilgrim mass( €500 ) and so some of the group went to enjoy the spectacle.

The Botafumeiro weighs 53 kilograms and measures 1.5 metres. Using a complex system of pulleys, it is swung from the central cupola of the cathedral, from which it hangs, towards the side aisles

One of the most famous symbols of the cathedral is the **Botafumeiro**, which may be largest censer in the world. It is used at masses celebrated on key dates at the cathedral. It is also used every Friday (except for Good Friday) at the 7.30 p.m. mass, an homage to the pilgrim by the city of Santiago. It may also be used on other occasions upon request from pilgrim groups. The aroma of the incense has a powerful symbolic connection to prayer and spiritual purification: ‘May my prayer be set before you like incense’ (Psalm 141:2).
The Botafumeiro weighs 53 kilograms and measures 1.5 metres. Using a complex system of pulleys, it is swung from the central cupola of the cathedral, from which it hangs, towards the side aisles. It takes eight men, known as **tiraboleiros**, to move it. It is suspended from a height of 20 metres and can reach speeds up to 68 km/h.
The first written reference to this enormous censer appears in a 14th-century margin note to the Codex Calixtinus, where it is called Turibulum magnum. There have been several censers throughout history and in the early years, the ceremony did not proceed as seamlessly as it does today. For example, in 1610, the pilgrim Diego de Guzmán wrote in his diary of how the censer ‘hit the upper vaults’ as it swung. And on a few other occasions, the rope has even slipped out of the pulley.

Thanks to Christina,Val and Mike for some of the photos

Comments 2 Comments
Categories Uncategorized

OUR PENULTIMATE SAUNTER – DAY XIII TO A RUA FROM ARZUA – 19 KM

19 Jun

We left at 07.30 and made a short 300 metre stroll to Bar La Galicia for Desayuno .

It was shortly after 08.00 when we began the way proper. As usual, the group divided into a solo, 2 pairs and a foursome – each according to their wishes or needs. These mini groups would often meet up along the way,more usually at refreshment stops.

The stage between Arzúa and O Pedrouzo is of low difficulty, it goes along forest tracks, crossing woods and fields. A day though in which we must take extreme precautions, as we will have to cross the N-547 road several times, with heavy traffic. We will walk on flat and comfortable terrain, finding plenty of bars and places to rest, perfect to take the stage calmly. Santiago is getting closer and closer.

After 5 km we reached
Taberna Velha, and we walked past “ The Wall of Wisdom “

After about 3 hours walking I stopped at Bar O Lino and caught up with Christina

Pineapple cake and Americano – €3.80 – perfecto.

The Guardia Civil on horseback – modern day KnightsTemplars – looking after Pelegrinos.

Shortly after leaving the bar it began to rain and this time we had all remembered our ponchos.

Don’t let the grass grow under your feet!

Steady rain for the rest of the saunter through woods and criss crossing the N 547 – a camera is fiddly work whilst wearing a poncho and the dreary weather, although it did not inspire much in the way of taking photos,did not detract from the enjoyment of the Camino; plus the growing realisation that 12 miles no longer meant so much of a challenge!

The rain began to ease as we neared our accommodation for today – Alojiamentos Rurales O Acrivo – after a quick check- in Mike and I made our way to our room.

An altogether welcoming place in delightful grounds and…it stopped raining.

( Thanks to Christina for some of the photos)

The forecast for our last day’s saunter tomorrow- Thursday – is looking brighter and drier for Santiago de Compostela.z

Comments Leave a Comment
Categories Uncategorized

DAY XII – TO ARZÚA – AN UNDULATING 9 MILE SAUNTER – WEATHER BETTER TOO.

18 Jun

I love the China cups with lids that you have for a tea negra.

Marker post at the beginning of today’s stage.

A Lavadero with the stream running through to rinse the washing

Some shelter from a shower.

A Fuente with classic twin church bell tower in the distance

An imposing gateway and a decorated Mojon

Valley View – However, the weather was not as bad as it looks and it was here that I was passed by two pilgrims pushing a paralysed man in a kind of portable stretcher- they were jogging and backed up by a team of four – you had to applaud. It reminded me of the film “ I’ll Push You “ that came out a few years back – a heartwarming account of pushing a friend all the way to Santiago. Probably available on YouTube .

The bridge at Ribadiso – the original pilgrim hospital has been restored- a beautiful place.

This is opposite our hotel – El Cima do Logo – on the Camino

A beer and tortilla whilst waiting to check in

Sunshine not storms on the patio off our room

Christina’s picnic lunch on the patio with Mike & myself “ Bon Provecho” y Muchas Gracias

Comments Leave a Comment
Categories Uncategorized

DAY XI – FROM PALAS DE REI TO MELIDE – a relaxed eight miles 🤣

18 Jun

Mike and I had a good breakfast in the cafeteria of ALBERGUE Valin Lamas, on the outskirts of Palas de Rei.

As I mentioned some time ago, I walked from Sarria to S de C 20,years ago this month – we stayed in this hotel – now up for sale, one of the few places I really remembered so far!

Eucalyptus trees are everywhere in Galicia

A timeless village scene, complete with an authentic Horreos – San Xulian do Camino

I got a stamp in the village church – I have run out of pages in my pilgrim passport ( Credencial) – now using the cover.

You have to obtain 2 stamps a day in Galicia – I should have just about room.

Whose reflection is in the window of a house exiting the village?

More grey skies today but considerably warmer

Val and Ray – sister & brother on the Camino

Characterful statues in an ornamental garden en route.

Excellent legend about this church – link below:

https://kpoethig.weebly.com/blog/leboreiro-igrexa-de-santa-maria-along-the-camino-frances

This little store served the same purpose as a horreos

Myra checking out the bar menu with Val desperate to get inside!

My daughter Hannah will be delighted to see this badge as it is the emblem of a Birmingham charity close to her heart.

**The Ponte Velha** – The bridge leading into Furelos, a village with Camino links dating back to the 12th century and the hospitaliers of San Juan.

Horreos for sale – I would love it in my garden.

Caminos de Europe – on the wall of our lodging for tonight – Pension San Anton – Melide

No plug hole in this state of the art bathroom

Christina taking advantage of the facilities.

We enjoyed a different kind of menu tonight.

Comments 1 Comment
Categories Uncategorized

DAY X PORTOMARIN TO PALAS de REI 15.9 MILES – A LONG SAUNTER

17 Jun

This is a very enjoyable town to visit – a credit to its rebuilding.

Building the new Portomarin,early 60s

Splendid display on the way down to the bridge

Fortunately they pressed on and we never saw them again – it is taking some time for us to adjust to the increased numbers since Sarria. Apart from Spanish groups there are large numbers of South Koreans and Japanese pilgrims too – all very cheery in their Camino gear!

Good conditions underfoot – a dreary sky was a disappointment- we were expecting sunshine. A big mistake!

Much later on we caught up with Christina where she was presented with a second rose – a white one this time – a friendly Peregrino she claimed .

Rob looking at what were becoming very threatening clouds

Meanwhile, some Camigos were better prepared than others

After her rosy presentation we noticed that it was pouring down with rain – we were poncholess having believed the earlier forecast; Christina,ever the pragmatist
,asked the young lady behind the bar for a bin liner and fashioned herself a “ poncho”. Not to be outdone I followed suit – if that’s the right description! No matter, they did the job.

The designer herself, still,with rose in hand.

Probably the brightest element in the whole town – let’s just say we won’t t be hurrying back any time soon.

We did have an excellent Menu del Dia though €13.50 a head

And the soup was back on the menu,plus a good choice of *Postres* – desserts – which our hard working waitress announced later.

The night was completed with a few of us watching the England V Croatia game in a nearby bar.

Comments Leave a Comment
Categories Uncategorized

DAY IX – SARRIA TO PORTOMARIN-FROM SULLEN CLOUDS TO CHEERY SUNSHINE

16 Jun

On our way through Sarria, after a good breakfast

A steep flight of steps upto the old town.

An “ Horreos” in the grounds of a fine house – status symbol- obviously not used to store maize – the steps are a give way – maybe the sun loungers?

The scenery is less dramatic but very pleasing to the eye

The parish church was taken down, stone by stone and rebuilt above, when the dam was created and the village emptied of people who who were rehoused in the recreated village around the church – early sixties.

Steps leading up to the town from the bridge

The main thoroughfare leading up to the aforesaid church.

Our Sleeping Beauty ….and when not dreaming of roses, Christina takes lots of photos and what follows are a selection which I am sure you will enjoy

“ I’ll Pick a Rose for my Rose” – Mark Johnson

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=FM7WXquTuPY&si=tiEgw4P-aPrAI8EO

The day finished in glorious sunshine and we enjoyed a good meal at Meson Rodriguez,opposite the church

Comments Leave a Comment
Categories Uncategorized

DAY VIII from TRICASTELA TO SARRIA – A MISTY MORNING

14 Jun

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=OBBlIfUH9bY&si=OYnat9-EW6GUHEG0 Bob Marley & the Wailers. – MISTY MORNING

We have passed the halfway stage of our Camino and walked through what is probably the most challenging stage of the Camino Frances – congratulations, especially those in our group walking the Camino for the first time.

And a very keen group of “ sello” collectors too!

THANKS TOMTHE GROUP FOR USE OF THEIR PHOTOS

A damp start to,the day with “ mizzle” in the air – that’s cricket commentary talk for a fine drizzle. It was also our coldest start.

Having turned right at the sign for San Xil the route climbed up along a country road and into the mist.

An unlikely but bright spot on this lonely track.

A surprise find was this Donativo ( make a contribution ) run by some young, idealistic people – coffee,juices ,fruit, cakes – within the yard of an abandoned farm house by the looks of it.

Mike and Christina sorting out a Sello for the pilgrim passports made from a dried fig – you get the idea ? A take on a woodcut in the shape of a heart – mine looked like a fingerprint!

A very old “ Horreos” – traditional Galician grain store - more to come in the next few days.

Christina gets the poncho off – Galician sunshine

Christina is a big fan of bus shelters – it was a welcome break before the last push into Sarria.

All,you need to know about Sarria below:

https://sarriaturismo.com/en/

Our digs for tonight is quite a mouthful: EL RINCONCITO DE DP CRISTAL

Comments 1 Comment
Categories Uncategorized

DAY VII FROM PEDRAFITA / O CEBREIRO TO TRICASTELA…DOWNHILL NOT FUN

13 Jun

We took a couple of uphill 3.5 km taxi rides back up from Pedrafita to rejoin the Camino at O Cebreiro, after a good breakfast at Miguiñas.

Bright morning with a cooling breeze and fine views.

Going downhill is always harder on the knee and hip joints than uphill

I quite like the outstretched arms as I looked down the valleys

24 hour pharmacy machine - you know you are on a Camino .

Peaceful herd – a pity you can’t hear the bell ringing.

It was time for lunch and at the top of a short but steepish climb the camino provided, well,at least for me as I was determined to have meat free day.

Maybe not fat free – a bocadillo with calamari and mayonnaise- muy bien.

The first **Horreos** – a corn store – the stone mushroom uprights designed to perplex the rodents – not typical, but a famous Galician symbol.

Eventually to Triacastela – a hard descent –

Had to take the washing in as the promised rain arrived – well, this is Galicia!

Tomorrow we walk to Sarria and possibly a change in the numbers of Pelegrinos walking – so far it has been very uncrowded – but that is a part of the Camino experience still to be appreciated or at least accepted.