DAY V SAUNTER From Carrión de Los Condes to Ledigos – 14 miles / I found there is freedom in sameness and beauty if you stop, breathe and observe.

24 Jan
CAUTION – When leaving Carrión de los Condes it is extremely important to stock up on water. 17km separate it from Calzadilla de la Cueza, with little protection from the sun or wind. In recent years, a roadside kiosk ( 10.1 KM has sprung up at the halfway point, but there are no guarantees that it will be open.
WP.

“Life’s a road full of ups and downs, but it’s the journey that makes the difference.” Every step we take, every decision we make, every challenge we face, all shapes us and makes us who we are. Life is an adventure and it takes courage to embark on it and keep going even when it gets tough. Life is precious and deserves to be lived with passion and determination. “

by Hape Kerkeling in “I’ll be gone”. Are you dreaming of the next Camino?

Can you recall the full quotation at the bottom of the quilt?

On the Camino as it passes through Carrión are shops,pharmacies, a Dia supermarket and a reputedly excellent outdoor store if you need to buy or replace anything. Cafe bar Espana on the main road opens for breakfast from 07.00. ( From a recently discovered online guide – “CaminoGuide.net”)

If the weather promises to be warm it might be advisable to get an early start as JB States : “ We pass through a flat..landscape with little or no shade. 70% is on gravel paths, most of which overlay the old paved Roman road,Via Aquitana that connected with Astorga. Anticipate no facilities between Carrión and Calzadilla (17.2 KM )….ensure your water flasks are full and have breakfast before you leave or bring something to eat with you.”

After a KM or so we are advised to ignore the alternative route,Antiguo Camino Frances along the N-120. We should head s/o along a quiet country road,passing the ruins of the once illustrious Franciscan Abbey, Abadia Santa Maria de Benvivere, known for its “good living” bene Vivere. JB

Still intact after 2000 years – save for a new gravel covering.
Apparently 100 000 tons of rock were needed just for the substrata to raise the surface above the winter flood levels,all transported from elsewhere.

We come next to Fuente del Hospitalejo “ the Fuente no longer offers hospitality but this is provided shortly afterwards at Area des Descanso- rest area.

Operates Summer time only .

MIRAGES – “ the straight stretch of 17 Km running from Carrión de Los Condes to Calzadilla de la Cueza sometimes holds a surprise in store. Because of the heat and the refraction of light rays,objects ahead may seem to be floating on a liquid surface. This is an optical phenomenon which lasts only a few seconds.” SR

It’ll be interesting to swap our mirages at the end of the day!

Calzadilla de la Cueza BB Recommends refuelling at the village bar – I don’t think we’ll need telling – it’s behind the albergue. A very popular bar and restaurant

A population of 60 souls,apparently.

On leaving Calzadilla we have again two choices for the last steps to Ledigos. Alongside the N.120 or turning left for a quiet woodland path. Note, there are not many waymarks, but JB gives a good description, P.160. After an ascent we descend into Ledigos our base and Albergue la Morena. “ A woman nicknamed La Morena ( the brunette) founded this private albergue; today her granddaughter and family carry on her work ethic…exceptional for its hospitality. They serve a great home cooked menu del Peregrino in the restaurant and bar.” BB

This Albergue is highly recommended. Other than the church, we should find some restful distraction here.
The church contains images of St James…if open.
DISTRACTIONS….tu muy buena Salud!

JUST A REMINDER ABOUT THE USEFUL REFERENCES IN THE BLOGWP – A Wise Pilgrim Guide to the Camino de Santiago from St Jean Pie SR – Sergi Ramis – Camino de Santiago ,The Ancient Way of Saint James…. BB – Moon – CAMINO DE SANTIAGO by Beebe Bahrami. JB – A PILGRIM’s GUIDE TO THE Camino de Santiago – John Brierley.

2 Responses to “DAY V SAUNTER From Carrión de Los Condes to Ledigos – 14 miles / I found there is freedom in sameness and beauty if you stop, breathe and observe.”

  1. Bernard Welsh's avatar
    Bernard Welsh 24/01/2023 at 18:21 #

    Always interesting reading off your Camino trips!

    • ensuitepilgrim's avatar
      ensuitepilgrim 24/01/2023 at 20:05 #

      Thanks Bernard- these recent Blogs are all previews of where we are walking this May.
      Normally I Blog retrospectively, but because this section – the Meseta – is often skipped by the faint hearted, I wanted to show how much it has to offer .

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