Crete, the largest, the southernmost and the most solitary of the Greek islands, and the fifth largest of the Mediterranean, floats halfway to Africa. It is a hundred and sixty miles long and roughly thirty broad, though wasp waists and swelling salients vary this girth. It is such a steep maze of gorges and crags that distances as the crow flies have no meaning; the islanders themselves measure them by time taken to smoke cigarettes, by hours gauged by the climb or the decline of the sun, and days reckoned from daybreak to sunset; or, more often, during the Occupation, by the duration of nights. Thirty miles in some parts, meant three days (or nights) of scrambles up rocks and breakneck, treacherous descents of landslides.
George Psychoundakis, The Cretan Runner.
There were echoes of this evocative description in our revisiting the Gorge of Samaria after 43 years…They say time will tell and it did. But first let’s get to the practicalities which haven’t changed much since 1978.
An early start for this excursion. 06.15 pick up by coach at the hotel just two miles from Chania. Over and through the famous White Mountains to a cafe stop at Omalos for breakfast/ coffee, then a few more Kms to the head of the gorge, which is now a National Park. €5.00 entrance fee. Then you start descending. On completion of the walk which takes between 4-6 hours,depending on your fitness, attitude whatever, you arrive at Aghia Roumeli, now an established village , from where you take a ferry to Sougia, there the same coach takes you back to your hotel. TIMES : From Chania to the Gorge 50 mins, Walk as described. Boat – an hour , we left at 17.30. Coach to Hotel, longer than outward journey at 1 hour 45 mins. We were out for 14 hours. It was well organised:- Coach there and back,€25.00. Entrance €5.00,boat €10.oo.€40 .00 in all . Good value we thought .
The coach ride was brilliant with views of these Limestone White Mountains. Occasional stops for the locals.
However, after a strong coffee, the coach took us on from Omalos to the entrance to the Gorge. Please show your ticket .
So, beginning at an elevation of 1230 metres, you descend on serpentine,stony paths.
The views were awesome.
Now a National Park, there were designated Fire Muster Points, WCs and Fresh water springs. And even a horse ride back up for anyone having an accident.
Once at river level there were hazard warnings.
Eventually, the river bed was reached after about an hour’s descent.
Hard to believe that there was an actual village existing down here and it only became derelict when occupants were rehoused elsewhere as it became a National Park.
The river bed.
Some information boards.
Approaching the old village of Samaria.
You now begin to feel again the encroachment of the mountains above you.
The gorge is named after St Mary of Egypt and there are the remains of her chapel.
At this point, the last thing I felt capable of was moving quickly!
The walk became both more troublesome ,walking over and along the river bed and more dramatic.
Another faculty which did not exist 43 years ago, was the walk way, Sidero-Portes ( iron gates) – one of many wobbly pathways across the water.
It’s a doddle crossing the river Tara.
Some more views as the route nears the sea.
A few more crossings.
The walk almost ends at the abandoned village of Palea, which means “ old”,Agia Roumeli. I remember reaching here in ‘78 and there were a few grubby kids with water bottles in a bucket for sale. Now there are three bars.
Three Kms on to the newly fashioned Agia passing an abandoned field and and the remains of an ancient bridge,
So now, let’ s get a drink and head for the beach before meeting our guide to pick up the tickets for the ferry at 16.30. The boat leaves at 17.30
The beach was fine pebble and volcanic sand – great to reshrink your feet at least a size – the Libyan sea beckons.
Cretan beer makers have got into the Craft beer scene and this was my favourite, especially after a trek like this,
Boarded the ferry amongst a throng of post Gorgers and set sail for Sougia.
After an hour, approaching Sougia.
I’m writing this blog approximately 30 hours after finishing the trek. My thigh and calf muscles still reproach me in a way I cannot remember after any walk…This includes numerous Rambles and a dozen or more Caminos. Experiencing this at 32 years was obviously a very different experience even though there was precious little supportive infrastructure then. Age…. The other differences were as follows: massively more busy, literally coachloads ( hands up we were in one ). Welcome WCs Etc. I felt pressure from walkers wanting to get past.We had forgotten how difficult it is underfoot. Rocks, shingle, tree roots and boulders. Talk about rose tinted glasses. We probably walked quicker than we needed. When you are walking with Ramblers you are amongst a group of similar vintage, no apparent differences. Even on Caminos, the difference in generations is not so obvious, probably because there are fewer walkers and it is not so frenetic. Like the Camino, there walkers from all over the world,going by the different and unrecognisable accents and that was great. But watching spring- heeled 24 year olds hop and clamber was…
At times it had me feeling like a down at heel 74 year old! The aches and pains will pass I’m sure, hopefully the Ibruprofen will kick in. No regrets.
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ensuitepilgrim's Blog 
Enjoyed reading that!