Walnuts in May and why you shouldn’t always ” ask a local “

Hotel Meson de Erosa – we really rated this hotel for value,amiability and good food. Plus a good TV service ! 

We had pleased ourselves, the previous evening, by crosssing the road from the hotel, to suss out the Route to the Camino ; across the road was a sign, on the pathway, with two arrows, one directing you via Verin and the other towards Laza, which is 14 km beyond Campobecceros, our destination. Congratulating ourselves on this reassurance, we made our way back, for a ” sharpener ” and Menu Del Dia, in the hotel restaurant. La cena was served between 21.00 – 00.00. Our waiter found the WBA v Chelsea game for us😊and we enjoyed a good meal of a small appetiser, Calda Gallego , Chargrilled belly pork and chips,or chipirones, , plus Postres ( couldn’t manage one, but Mac made up for it ! ) and wine. As residents we had a reduction to € 10.00 ! Gave our excellent waiter a good tip and went to sleep, after I mastered the retraction of the electric blinds in our room.

At 07.15, it was dry outside, so we were really uplifted by the prospect of a good walk. We saw the ” diddy ” caravans, described to us, yesterday, by the guy from Stockport.

 We set off on our pre- researched route and made good progress to a tiny Pueblo, Erosa. It was here, that our plans began to unravel. My Google Earth route took us through the village on a very minor road, however, a local came towards us, waving his hands and directed us to a path to the right. We took it; we should not have been so subservient!

We walked up a considerable incline, on a good, dry path , at the bottom of which we approached a rushing stream……for a moment, it brought back the experience we had last year, of wading across a flooded waterway. Thankfully, there was a primitive, but passable stone bridge, hidden from immediate view,to the left.

After which, we climbed again and traversed a sierra – brush, gorse, Heather and scrub, pine trees and endless views of the hills, in every direction; no habitation,whatsoever. If ” Remoteness” is your thing, this is the area to make for- Galicia at its purest. After 2 1/2 hours walking, on what had to said, were good, dry surfaces, considering three days’ rain had fallen, we reached another tiny pueblo . 

Question – where the hell are we? 

Waterbreak and a search on the phone led us to believe that we needed to stay on this small, blacktop road….. which would have been the correct decision, had we walked in the right direction – there were no signs and nobody to ask. We walked for another 9 km until we found ourselves at a road junction, with signposts…relieved until we saw that Campobecceros was 21Km away ! About as far as we had walked thus far.

We sat in a bus stop and mournfully considered our options, after cursing the guy who had sent us off piste. The village of San Lourenzo was signposted, across the nearby motorway and which was on the Camino, as we passed authentic Galician marker stones, albeit they were pointing towards Verin, which was not the branch we wanted and which was 25 Km away.
San Lorenzo, district of A Gudina.

We hoped to find a bar and call for a taxi. A figure appeared at the first house, in the village. I approached and asked in my best Spanish, was there a bar?

No. The lady in question was then joined by a younger couple and between them, they ushered us into a large storeroom cum kitchen, where we were given strong coffee and 🍪, whilst we relayed our woeful tale. Meantime, a taxi was summoned by phone.

In this short time, we met Concepcion ( call me Conche), her niece and husband, Paulo and Verona. The couple lived in Ourense. She worked in Insurance and he was an ambulance driver. Charming, helpful people. 

The Camino provides again.

I noticed a hessian sack hanging from one of the eaves and was curious to know what were the contents ? 

Walnuts from their own trees. 

Then our sojourn was ended by the arrival of the taxi and as we exchanged kisses on both cheeks, Conche handed me a bag of walnuts, wishing us ” Buen Camino” as we departed; warmed by their generosity and helpfulness.

The rain began to fall as we departed on a tortuous trip across the hilltops – T G we didn’t have to walk it!

A final twist in the day’s tale. Campobecceros was one of the places I had found impossible to reserve accommodation, however the 18 bunk Albergue had good reviews, as did a nearby restaurant, Casa Nunez. 

Campobecceros.

The ” Ensuitepilgrim” had to capitulate in this case.

So, Mac and I grabbed two lower bunks, near the loo and by a wall.

Although we avoid them, wherever possible , we know that being near to the ground and toilet/ shower are plus points , in an albergue! 

We were OK on both accounts.

We reacquainted ourselves with two ladies who had been at Casa Irene, a Swiss and a German – both with good GSOH. Shook hands with Stephen from Kansas and John, from Ireland and met up with a young pelegrina from Quebec, Maude. It would seem that these would be our only overnight companions, making the Albergue experience relatively painless, at € 8.00 each.

Bar Rosario,for a bowl of hearty soup, country bread, rice pudding again😝and a bottle of wine, for €4.00 each. Mac snatched a siesta and I took a shot of the countryside, from behind the Albergue. The other side of this medieval village has been ripped apart by the AVE construction.

The only wifi available is in Casa Nunez – dinner destination sorted.

Track for the day -” Can’t Find My Way Home”, Steve Winwood