The diference between average temperatures and forecasts , is the actual weather! According to the T V, in the papers and on the Web, we were due some unseasonable weather and so plans B & C were made. We set off towards Mombuey, where we could stop over if necessary. Having made 10 km in good time, we only paused at Hotel Ruta, for coffee and a look at the paper’s weather page,” Tormentos, Ffluvia and Granizos ” were said to be hitting Galicia presently., P G missing us in Castille/ Leon.
Meanwhile, it was decided that we should walk on towards Palacios de Sanabre and seek accommodation there. A friendly bar owner telephoned the advertised apartmentos, on our behalf; ” Chiuso”, therefore , Plan C came into being as we set off for Puebla de Sanabria, thankfully, in mild,dry weather. After resting in the porch of a remote church, we could see Puebla in the Tera valley.
Plan C meant that we should be a day early; we found Hostal Raices, where we were due to arrive the next day, hoping to get in for an extra night. I mounted the stone staircase, rang the bell and was greeted by a somewhat , half- crazed, one- toothed senora major, wearing FCB Barcelona slippers ( she did have some other clothes on ); I was not able to get anywhere, but in the meantime, Mac had spotted our two German amigos and they led us to a super place, for the night. Mac was suitably enthroned , there, in Don Carlos V Hotel.
Later, we sampled some of the ” cervezas artesanas”, which took their toll. It was to be our last night with them and Stephen, who the next morning, made an emotional farewell, but not before he had disclosed to us more of his family history, as a descendant of the Courtauld family, famous for Polar exploration and a dynasty, in itself. We took the day very easily, exploring the town and a 1.2 km walk to its famous railway station, to investigate the possibility of a train , onwards, should this cataclysmic weather arrive. About eight trains a day arrive and depart from here, notwithstanding its grandiose appearance, none of which would be much use to us.
Plan D was to be discussed , next day, 10 th May, meanwhile, we had a good €12.00 dinner and reminisced about Stephen, who, during our last walk, together, had insisted we sang our school song to St Philip – ” This is the Saint of Gentleness and Kindness”- echoing over the Sierras. We also sang an improvised version of ” To Be a Pilgrim”; Maddy Prior’s version just shaded ours…
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