Archive | January, 2026

PREVIEW OF PORTUGUESE CAMINO MAY 2026 Vila do Conde to Esposende

22 Jan
Today’s destination – 24.2 KM There are short, walkable links from the coast inland to the N-13 if a bus or taxi is needed.

We have the option of returning to the litoral along the coast, keeping the River Ave on our left until the ocean,or follow the brown way markers along the narrow lanes of Vila do Conde, soon entering Povoa de Varzim – quite a contrast to Vila do Conde.

The preferred option is to head back to the coast.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=0ZryiRRdA_0&si=eVPDkhNOQkXL6duV “ THE SEA” by Fotheringay,featuring the distinctive voice of Sandy Denny.

Praca d. Joao II
A memorial to the 500th anniversary of the Portuguese Discoveries and Vila do Conde’s participation in the Maritime Epic. A monument-square designed by the sculptor José Rodrigues, marked by the vertical assertion of a mast and the sails of a ship furrowing geometric waves, with a mermaid punctuating an enchanted sea where the firmament is reflected.
Routes of adventure. Navigation instruments and sundials. Spheres reminiscent of the sidereal universe. The strength of the Padrões (standards) reflecting the Portuguese presence on the five continents. Water, the source of life, like the blood of the sailors who take ships and caravels to sail “seas never before navigated”.
A poetic evocation and tribute from Vila do Conde to its sailors, caulkers, and naval carpenters who helped “give new worlds to the world,” inaugurated on June 14, 2001.
River Ave, Vila do Conde

This is a virtually flat stage.

Forte de Sao Joao Baptiste –
It is believed that this fortress (São João Baptista Fortress) was built as early as 1573; now it is a hotel.
Pedra da Tartaruga –

Highlight • Natural Monument
The Turtle Rock really does look like that.
After 4 KM we reach Povoa de Varzim.This once – small fishing village with a port in use since the 11 th century is now a seaside resort with fine beaches and the last stop on Porto’s Metro.
Drone’s view of Povoa
Tiled memorial of the town’s seafaring and fishing history.
The town does still have a historic centre
Boardwalk heading away from Povoa de Varzim
The Masseiras – These are low-lying market gardens which form a system of agriculture unique in the world. These troughs have been dug into the sand to protect vines and vegetables from the wind and salt air – they trap warm air cresting a microclimate. They are filled with seaweed and other fertilisers. This area from the cape of Santo Andre and the estuary of the river Cavado is protected.
Bundles of seaweed collected for fertilising the Masseiras.
Santo Andre
Near Agucadouro
A golf course, foot ball pitch and Campismo Rio Alto adjacent to the boardwalk.
3 KMs further on we reach Apulia Praia –
Part of the Litoral de Esposende Protected Landscape, Apúlia Beach covers a large expanse of sand surrounded by dunes that serve to protect the Beach from stronger winds. The dunes are also home to former windmills that have now been converted into holiday homes.

A popular summer destination, the beach has every kind of service and facility and even comes with a specialist health recommendation given its richness in iodine. The abundance of seaweed is one of its greatest characteristics and resulted in one of the defining landmarks of Portugal’s northern coastline – the “Sargaceiro da Apúlia”, known thus due its purpose of collecting sargaço (the local name for seaweed), which was then used as fertiliser on surrounding fields.

To reach Esposende we turn inland to Fao

https://www.visitesposende.com/en/fazer/roteiros/parish-tour/tour-fao

The above link gives an interesting commentary on Fao.

The Ponte Metalica de Fao
Esposende
This evening’s accommodation. Riverside location.

https://www.booking.com/Share-l59Th32

https://www.visitesposende.com/en

The above link should save you from the “middle of nowhere”.

A song by the late,great Dusty Springfield.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=sxlF12tuhbA&si=o-roTKMcDkAKoIMt

PORTUGUESE COASTAL CAMINO 2026. MATOSINHOS TO VILA DO CONDE PREVIEW

16 Jan
A flat mixture of boardwalk, paved path, and cobblestones. 22 KM The day is a mixture of beautiful beaches,lovely rugged coastline, nice little hamlets, and a conclusion at one of the coolest towns on the Camino – Vila do Conde.
Boa Nova Lighthouse North of Matosinhos. It was built to alleviate the shipwrecks along this notorious stretch of sea known as the Black Coast – Costa Negra.

Boa Nova Chapel near Matosinhos with a good cafe nearby. We continue along the boardwalks – paseos de madera – there will be information panels all along the coast to Vila do Conde.
Obelisco da Memoria in memory of the surprise landing of liberal troops commanded by Dom Pedro IV in 1832 who took on the absolutist army in Porto.
WALKING ON SUNSHINE

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=HmR2IZjuMVc&si=v_vhfAmT6uYa3fk7 Katrina & The Waves

Tanques Romanos
Spread along 600 meters along the Angeiras Beach, there are six clusters of tanks, amounting to 32 pieces, excavated in the rocks during the Roman period (3rd to 4th centuries AD). These rectangular cavities of different depths would be used for fish salting and the production of other types of canned fish, including the famous “garum”. Close to some tanks, several structures were also detected, formed by pebbles and clay floors and enclosed by small stone walls. The area is used to harvest seaweed – Sargaco – to fertilize the sterile sandy soil..
Using the wooden bridge,we then cross over the River Onda and onwards towards Labruge using the boardwalks,winding our way around the San Paio headland.
Capela San Paio –

Erected probably in the Middle Ages to Christianize a site that had been sacred since antiquity, it takes the name of S. Paio from the young martyr S. Pelayo (Paio is an abbreviation of Pelayo). Pelayo was the nephew of the Bishop of Porto, Hermógio, and was taken prisoner with him at the battle of Vale de Junquera, Navarre, on July 26, 920, and taken to Córdoba by Caliph Abd-Al-Rahman III. There he was martyred three years later. Being a saint from Porto, his cult spread throughout the area of nascent Portugal, with a particular incidence in the coastal regions, where legend says that parts of his body washed ashore. His feast day is celebrated on the first Sunday of July.
The Taskuinha Bar just before Vila Cha
The fishing village of Vila Cha
An amazingly decorated house in Vila Cha.

7 KMs to Vila do Conde, entering the town after crossing the Rio Ave.


Vila do Conde is a charming coastal municipality and one of the oldest settlements in Northern Portugal, located on the Atlantic coast 20 km north of Porto. It is known for its rich maritime history, beautiful beaches, and historic landmarks. 
The Centro – Praca da Republica at the heart of the town.

There are a lot of interesting places to see here :-


Mosteiro de Santa Clara: A striking 14th-century monastery complex that dominates the skyline and offers beautiful views of the Ave River.
A notable 16th-century church with impressive architecture, built after King Manuel I’s visit in 1502.
Santa Clara Aqueduct – the impressive 18th-century aqueduct that stretches for several kilometers inland.
Nau Quinhentista – a replica of a 16th-century Portuguese caravel ship near the waterfront to learn about the town’s shipbuilding heritage.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=AdiuqQ7xm30&si=4hExSfFp0q40tiOp “ Wooden Ships on the Water” by Crosby,Stills and Nash.


Forte de São João – A 15 minute walk from the town centre – (St. John the Baptist of Foz Fort): Explore the medieval fortress located at the river mouth with panoramic views.
This evening’s accommodation at Naval Guest House. “ Close to Camino. Clean, comfortable and quiet. Hosts are responsive and kind. Bonus – stamp available for pilgrim passport” RECENT REVIEW

When I began these previews, last year, for the Via Francigena, it was to help,with the familiarisation of the route for all of us. Same principles apply for the Portuguese.

Hopefully we’ll get sunshine en route.

CAMINO PORTUGUESE 2026 PREVIEW. PORTO TO MATOSINHOS

12 Jan
That’s our destination.
The information for these previews is gathered from several guide books, the internet and my own memories, hopefully time hasn’t dimmed them ! The coastal Camino has become far more populated since I last walked it. See the table below.
The July numbers are now available. Both the Coastal and Central Routes were busier than last year. With St. James’ feast day on July 25, that week was busier than the rest of the month in Santiago. The 100 km cities still are very popular with just over 75% of walkers on the Central Route beginning in O’Porriño, Tui or Valença. On the Coastal Route, just over 35% began in Baiona or Vigo.
The 100 KM cities refers to minimum starting points long enough to obtain a Compostela.

After a morning sight seeing in Porto, at 2pm,we should gather outside the cathedral ,from whence we begin our first day’s saunter. Passport (Credencial) and its initial stamp at the Porto Cathedral (Sé do Porto) at the tourist entrance or information desk to the right of the main entrance.

THE CATHEDRAL

Steps down from the Cathedral

Walking from Porto Cathedral to Praça da Ribeira is a short, scenic downhill stroll ,by heading towards the river, taking winding streets like Rua das Flores,passing the church of San Laurenco,down Rua de Santa Ana,then downhill along the Rua dos Mercadores,which will eventually bring us to the Cais da Ribeira,Porto’s waterfront.


Cais da Ribeira .
Porto’s historic, colorful, UNESCO-listed riverside district on the Douro RiverIt is known for its lively atmosphere, medieval alleys, cafes, restaurants, traditional *barcos rabelos* (port wine boats), and stunning views of the Dom Luís I Bridge.

We turn right,keeping the river on our left,following the coast all the way to Matasinhos,10 km.(I have walked a section of this route to the tram terminus ,a short way ,on a holiday , but never on a Camino, as in the past I took the Metro to Matosinhos Mercardo and began from there. So I am really looking forward to it.)

The Arrabida Bridge ( the A6 )

We shall be sauntering along pavements,cycle tracks and boardwalks for the next two days. We walk below the bridge and after 2.5 KM we should reach the mouth of the river and the Atlantic Ocean.

Local Nature Reserve on the Douro.

We then come to Foz de Douro through shaded gardens.


Foz do Douro is an upscale, picturesque district in Porto, Portugal, located where the Douro River flows into the Atlantic Ocean, known for its sandy beaches (like Praia da Luz), scenic promenades, historic forts (Castelo do Queijo, São João Baptista), elegant mansions, and trendy restaurants, offering a relaxed seaside atmosphere with natural beauty and luxury living. It’s an affluent area and quite a contrast to the bustle of nearby Porto.
Castelo de Queijo.
The fortress is so-called as the rocks it was built on supposedly resemble 
 cheese. The castle was designed by Miguel l’Ecole and completed in 1661.
Inside is a museum (admission charge) dedicated to Portugal’s commandos. The exhibits, maps, regimental insignia, weapons and photographs are mainly from the conflicts in Portugal’s former colonies in Africa – Angola and Mozambique.

We are now nearly at Matosinhos. The Camino enters the town along the beach front, turning into Av. De Republica, then a short walk to our accommodation for the evening.

“Very good value for money, clean room and with everything necessary. Well located in matosinhos, with the metro stop next door and many dining options nearby.” A RECENT REVIEW.

5

TRAGEDY AT SEA SCULPTURE

Matosinhos is a vibrant coastal city and municipality in Northern Portugal, just north of Porto, known for its extensive sandy beaches, bustling fishing port and famous for fresh seafood, with streets lined with restaurants grilling fish outdoors; also features municipal markets. It also features historical buildings, the Church of Matosinhos, and the MuMMa (Matosinhos Memory Museum).

The impressive Mercardo
Bom Jesus de Matosinhos

THE OCEAN – Richard Hawley

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=_1dugEjcwAA&si=m2D4jqGLfXbI7vZs

IT’s 2026 – TIME TO PREVIEW THE STAGES OF OUR CAMINO PORTUGUESE IN MAY. DAY ONE – TO PORTO.

5 Jan

“Porto is a city where history is woven into every brick and the river flows with stories.”

Thursday,14th May 2026 we fly to Porto,leaving at 12.25 and arriving @ 14.45. Allowing for airport clearance and transfer by taxis to The Log Porto Hotel, check in etc, we should have an evening before us.

It is a short walk from here to either the bus stop, or Estadio de Draga metro station should you wish to go into town.


Andante Tour/Porto Card: Offers unlimited travel for a set period, great for tourists. Buy at the station. Remember to endorse the ticket before boarding and when changing lines.

To get from Estádio do Dragão to São Bento by Porto Metro, take the Blue Line (Line B, C, or E) from Estádio do Dragão towards the city center, get off at Trindade Station, and then either walk (about 5-10 mins) or take a short connection to São Bento (Line D), though often the walk from Trindade is simplest for São Bento, as it’s a major hub. São Bento Railway Station

Admire the stunning entrance hall, adorned with approximately 20,000 blue-and-white azulejo tiles depicting scenes from Portuguese history. That’s a great place to start a tour of the city. NB to bring up a link just press slightly on it.

https://porto-north-portugal.com/porto-guide/porto-walking-tour-self-guided-1-day-foot.html

The above link is comprehensive, bear in mind that we have the next morning to further explore the city before meeting at the See ( cathedral),14.00 to get a stamp for your pilgrim passport and begin our first stage of walking to Matosinhos.

The Cathedral.

https://www.introducingporto.com/porto-cathedral

“Portuguese food isn’t just about taste; it’s about tradition, culture, and sharing stories over a meal.” Dinner could be taken here or back at the hotel. Classic Portuguese dishes feature fresh seafood, rich stews, pork, and iconic pastries, with highlights including Bacalhau à Brás (cod with potatoes/eggs), Caldo Verde(kale soup), savory Francesinha sandwich, pork/clam Carne de Porco à Alentejana, seafood Cataplana, grilled sardines, and sweet Pastéis de Nata, showcasing a blend of land and sea flavors. 


“Classic Portuguese wines are famous for Port (fortified, from Douro), crisp Vinho Verde (young whites), rich reds from regions like Douro, Dão, and Alentejo (using grapes like Touriga Nacional, Castelão, Baga), and the unique fortified wines from Madeira, offering diverse styles from aromatic whites to bold, complex reds and sweet dessert wines.”

Of the several times I have visited Porto,one of the many highlights for me was the cable car journey across the river to Gaia and the port cellars


The cable car over the Douro in Porto is the Teleférico de Gaia, offering stunning aerial views of Porto’s historic center, the Douro River, the Dom Luís I Bridge, and Vila Nova de Gaia’s port wine cellars. This short, scenic 5-minute ride connects the riverside in Gaia (near the Beira Rio Market) to the upper Jardim do Morro, providing a relaxing way to see landmarks and avoid hills. 
Cost: Varies, but typically around €7-€10 for a return trip, often including a free port wine tasting at a cellar.

From its construction in 1763 until the late 20th century the Torre dos Clérigos was the tallest building in Portugal. The climb up the steps is well worth the effort.

It’s your Camino so whether touring a city, or exploring a village on the way, everyone should feel free to follow their own interests be it gastronomy, history, sacred sites,sunbathing or people watching. I hope this short blog whets your appetite for what is to come.

Here’s a short list of essential Portuguese phrases for greetings, politeness, and basic communication: 

Olá (Hello), Bom dia/Boa tarde/Boa noite (Good morning/afternoon/evening), Obrigado/Obrigada (Thank you – speaker’s gender dependent), Por favor (Please), Desculpe (Sorry/Excuse me), Sim/Não (Yes/No), Não entendo (I don’t understand), and Fala inglês? (Do you speak English?). 

Greetings & Politeness

  • Olá / Oi: Hello / Hi (Olá is more standard, Oi is casual, common in Brazil).
  • Bom dia: Good morning (until noon).
  • Boa tarde: Good afternoon (noon to ~6 PM).
  • Boa noite: Good evening / Good night (after ~6 PM).
  • Como está? / Tudo bem?: How are you? / Everything good?.
  • Estou bem / Tudo bem: I’m well / All good (response).
  • Por favor: Please.
  • Obrigado/Obrigada: Thank you (men say Obrigado, women say Obrigada).
  • De nada: You’re welcome.
  • Com licença / Desculpe: Excuse me / Sorry. 

Basic Communication & Travel

  • Sim / Não: Yes / No.
  • Não entendo: I don’t understand.
  • Fala inglês?: Do you speak English?.
  • Não falo português: I don’t speak Portuguese.
  • Onde é…? Where is…? (e.g., Onde é o banheiro? – Where is the bathroom?).
  • Quanto custa?: How much does it cost?.
  • Até logo / Tchau: See you later / Bye (Tchau is more casual). 
DISCLAIMER- No wine was drunk during the compilation of this blog.