M12.05.2025 Via Francigena Viterbo – Vetralla
We were up early, because yesterday we went to bed early.
It’s our first day, so we have to prepare well. A sunny day is forecast, so plenty of sunscreen. To avoid blisters, tape your feet. A common mistake is that one tries to take care of blisters once they’re here. Gotta make sure they don’t show up. That’s why all the tape.
Then we went to see the sisters for breakfast, but we were there all alone, and decided not to do it anyway. Called the nurses to ask if they could leave our backpack there. We decided, considering my knee issue, to walk light this year. So we let 1 backpack be transported from lodges to lodges, and there we of course put the heaviest pieces in, and what we do not need on the way. I carry a small backpack with the camel bag in it, and Liliane carries a smaller backpack with what she thinks she needs on the way.
The nurse informs the person in charge of the rooms to be sure if our story is correct, was ok, and we were allowed to leave our backpack there, and we could go.
We walk through the Pizza della Morte, where we had a good dinner yesterday, passing the Vicolo dei Pellegrini, and so on past the Palazzo Farnese, to the Piazza San Lorenzo, with the Cattedrale di San Lorenzo, and further the Palazzo de Papi.
Here the VF is not properly specified, but I still knew it from last year. You have to go down a narrow metal staircase through a small gate. For those who come to me, this is the way to follow. Then continue to the Porta di Valle, which is still closed, so you have to go right to the Porta Faul with the Torre della bella Galiana, to then get to the Strada Signorino via the Camno Rosso. Mc Donald’s where we have breakfast. It all sounds a bit complicated, but it’s not, everything proves itself.
And so after a nice breakfast with croissant and cappuccino we go back on the road, via the Strada Signorino.
In Viterbo you can continue walking on the Via Francigena in several ways. You can take the long, “scenic” route via the Porta Romana, or the short one via the Strada Signorino, or in between via the Strada Freddano. We choose the short one via the Strada Signorino, which is also beautiful, because this road was carved completely out of the rocks, still by the Etrusks. Very impressive and beautiful. A disadvantage is that the road is also used by cars, but they drive slowly and are all friendly and give us space, and wave good day.
At the end of the Strada Signorino, we come to a field road, and walk under the provincial road. Last year I went directly to the left, but now we take a little more time, and go to the right to the Chiesa di Santa Maria di Castel d’Asso (on the Strada Ponte del Diavolo -;)! ). I highly recommend it to everyone. It is a beautiful old church. There is also the official road sign of 100 km to Rome. On the way we came across another crab crossing the road. And when we got to the church, there was a volunteer cleaning up, because there had been a party yesterday. He offered us a drink, which we accepted with thanks, and we received a nice stamp on our credential.
Then back on our steps to continue following the Via Fancigena. Further, a new resting place has been decorated, very beautiful. We follow the field path parallel to a busy road leading to Vetralla and Rome. Last year there were huge fields here with only coal, but of all kinds (red, white, savoy, spike, etc). Now there’s nothing on the field, and trucks will be hit by with stable manure, probably to work it into the field. There’s a huge pile already.
Along the path there are a huge variety of flowers and plants. Time to open my Obsidentify app and see what plants are all on here.
We walk further on the path, under the highway, and then a long steep climb begins, in the full sun, almost without shelter, we walk among the hazelers. It’s falling heavy. We meet another pilgrim, Will from Sidney, Australia, who also walks to Vetralla. And a little later 2 pilgrims from Canada, also on the way to Vetralla. We stop on the way under a hazel tree, to rest a bit and eat and drink. And when we leave back, we come across a resting place 100 meters further with a table and benches (I had totally forgotten that it was here). There was a couple, volunteers, riding their bikes down the path to make sure everything was clean and in order. Respect, and a big THANK YOU, to these people. Every now and then they also walk a route, to arrive in Rome at the end of next month. Very friendly people. The bank is at about the highest point of this stage, in any case there is a beautiful view of the valley. Walking is a bit smoother from here. We arrive at another resting place, where there is drinkable water. We’re going to rest a bit and eat and drink something. The 2 Canadians also join to rest and drink, and to chat.
How further do we get to a b&b where there is a bench where the pilgrims can rest, and where there is also a stamp for the credential. Last year I also stopped here for a while with Fred, only because it rained. There’s a beautiful birdhouse hanging in a tree now.
How much further can we choose for a shortcut, if we follow the Via Roma, or make a detour if we follow the via Francigena. It’s not too late, and we’re going for “the full tour”. We are not complaining, we pass by a place where you can refresh your feet (we don’t, we don’t have a towel), and a little further to a very old church, Chiesa di Santa Maria in Foro Cassio. A very old, but beautiful church. There is an info point that is staffed (by a young lady) by volunteers. You can write your name or a wish on a stone and put it there, and the lady will also make for us a stone with the symbol of the Via Francigena. Respect back, and thank you for these volunteers.
Now it’s not far to Vetralla. Upon entering, we meet Will van Sidney sleeping in a hotel just outside Vetralla. We will continue after a short chat, and upon entering Vetralla you will pass by an “open air museum”, where there are all things depicting different old professions, furthermore there is a beautiful mural, and there is a building decorated in a nice way. Crossing the busy road, we’ll stop at the tourist service for another stamp, and then we’ll get to our accommodation.
I’m calling the host that we have arrived, and sitting on the terrace of the bar next to the accommodation. A little later he arrives, and shows the accommodation. To the pilgrims who come after us and are looking for good lodging in Vetralla. Address Il Refugio del Pellegrino or Refugio del Cavaliere. Highly recommended. Located on the Via Francigena, next to a bar, where you can drink during the day, which serves breakfast in the morning, and across the street is the restaurant La Lanterna, which I can also recommend. Ate there last year, and this time again, very tasty.
And then it’s time to go to sleep again, because we are a bit tired after all from walking in the sun, with a serious height difference, and still almost 18 km.
See you tomorrow
https://italysegreta.com/the-slow-life-in-viterbo-lessons-from-a-medieval-city/
Day XI is a”rest’ day in Viterbo – the above article gives a loving impression of the city by an American who stayed for the best part of a year, recently.
In 2022 the official route was moved east in order to incorporate footpaths in the vast woods of Monte Fogliano,while the former route on Strada Signorino was preserved as an official variant.
However, The Gronze guide states “Note 2025: The short 16 km route is closed. Take the official route via San Martino al Cimino.” Confusing isn’t it?
Below is an extract from a Blog written as recently as October,2023 – by an an American pilgrim.
“There are two (ehhh…2.5) routes out of Viterbo. The one recommended in the guidebook involves walking to this McDonalds and continuing on, left at the fork, for a few miles — or taking a short detour by heading right at the fork (thus the 0.5). This route is about 9 miles long and relatively flat. The other route is more like 16 miles long and hilly, and though the guidebook doesn’t mention it, the VF app treats this as the “official” route. Anyway, I was going with the guidebook route, so forked left at the Golden Arches.
The real reason for taking this route is not because it is short or flat (though that helps…) No, it’s to walk in the fascinating Via Cava that the path traces for the first hour of the day. Here, 2500 years ago the Estruscans carved these roads deep into the soft tufa stone, connecting their cities to burial areas. On a side note, I am very fascinated by the Estruscans, who were a very sophisticated pre-Roman society. This was such a cool way to start the day, with the narrow road curving between soft stone walls that got progressively higher and narrower, with a few protruding ominously at the top.”
Apparently, the origin of these excavated roads has a variety of explanations. They are narrow roadways cut into soft,tufa stone over 2 500 years ago. They usually led from Etruscan settlements to nearby necropoli – depth can vary between 12 – 24 metres.
The municipality of Vetralla (province of Viterbo, Lazio) is located along the Via Francigena at 300 metres above sea level. Known for its characteristic medieval village and the woods of the Cimini mountains – the green lung of Tuscia – it is a land of important Etruscan, Roman, and Barbarian settlements and has a rich artistic and archaeological heritage.
In this borgo, along Via Francigena stage 42 Vetralla-Sutri, the mural ‘Il Cammino’ (The Way) created by painter Alessandro Ridolfi has just been completed. The artwork was realised on the initiative of a committee of local volunteers to enhance the places crossed by the Via Francigena in Vetralla.
https://www.italyreview.com/vetralla.html Good link to the town.
“Da Benedetta is a hotel in Vetralla, on the ancient Via Francigena, between Viterbo and Rome. It was grandmother Benedetta Rosati who opened, back in 1959, the restaurant from which the hotel developed, at the instigation of the Pasquinelli family (it was the year 2002).
In more than sixty years, our family has seen the territory, the pilgrims and its own hotel change, but never the tradition and the identity legacy of grandmother Benedetta.
Family-run, recently renovated, pet friendly and with a green soul, the Da Benedetta hotel restores the spirit of this splendid land, Tuscia. A soft land, of passage, in which culture is a legacy of ancestors, of wayfarers.“ FROM THE HOTEL’S WEBSITE
“I stayed at Da Benedetta for one night while walking the Via Francigena. Even though I arrived a little early, the very helpful lady on reception allowed me to check in, and my room was both clean and very comfortable, with a good bathroom. Breakfast next morning set me up for several hours walking. A very pleasant location with welcoming staff. Recommended.” RECENT REVIEW
PS I have not gone into too much detail about the route; I have guidance for both and may be worth waiting for Sloways’ info.
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