Archive | February, 2025

DAY V ON THE FRANCIGENA TO ROME. 9 KM – from San Quirico d’Orcia to Castiglione,Friday 13th June.

23 Feb

“VERY SUPERSTITIOUS” by Stevie Wonder.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=2PJ__4Nzzkk&si=DQDr0QZxJRTx0cuQ


This is Val d’Orcia, included in 2004 in the UNESCO World Heritage List. A unique encounter of art and nature, rich in evidence of the past, with a natural landscape redesigned during the Renaissance to reflect the ideals of ‘good government’ in the Italian city-state. 

Superstition has often to do with numbers. I know that in some countries 13 is a very bad number. Well, in Italy, 13 is considered a lucky number, whilst fearing the number 17. Better be careful and do not plan anything important on a Friday 17, because it is considered a very bad day. Below is a link to a lighthearted article about superstitions in Italy.

So,we should have nothing to fear whilst walking on a “Friday 13th in Italy!”

https://instantlyitaly.com/are-italians-really-superstitious-superstition-in-italy/

It’s a short stage today, but a beautiful one,the reason is to break what would be 29 KM trek to Radocafani, including a long climb at the end of the day.

We shall depart along the Via Dante Alighieri, the pedestrian street,turning right on to the Via Matteoli,then left onto Via Garibaldi,some suburban walking then at a Y junction ( 1.2KM ), the road turns to gravel and climbs,sometimes steeply,leading to a fine view.

A view of Roca d’Orcia with its rectangular castle tower .

The road returns to concrete on the descent,but we follow arrows to the left, to enter the picturesque hamlet of Vignoni Alto.

The castle. A link with more detail,below.

https://castellitoscani.com/en/vignoni-castle/


“This village has a unique attraction –  in traditional Italian towns and villages there is a main square in the centre. In Bagno Vignoni there is a pool 49 metres long and 29 wide, from the bottom of which bubble up a number of hot springs. The therapeutic qualities of the waters became renowned and attracted numerous pilgrims travelling the Via Francigena on their way to Rome, one of the main destinations for the Christian pilgrimages. It’s not possible to enter the central pool, but it is possible to enjoy a free warm bath in the springs at the adjacent Parco dei Mulini .” The springs have been visited by notable such as St Catherine of Siena,Pope PiusII AND Lorenzo the Magnificent.
A great view of the Val d’Orcia from the castle archway. There should be an opportunity for coffee in the village.
Agriturismo Le Querciole is the only other possible refreshment stop.

Leaving the village there is a sign to a pedestrian bridge over the River Orcia,however it has been closed for repairs,if not reopened, we continue downhill to the Via Cassia and cross via the auto bridge. Then veering right along a driveway to an Osteria, before which turning left on to the VF. We cross the SP323, passing a small vineyard and orchard on to a gravel road to Castiglione d’Orcia.

Castiglione our destination for today .
A thousand-year-old village in the heart of Tuscany
The charming town of Castiglione d’Orcia, in the province of Siena, is perched on one of the verdant hills of the Val d’Orcia, between rows of vineyards and roads lined with cypress trees. It is a typical Tuscan village, with stone and brick houses, offering beautiful views of the surrounding countryside.

The charming if tiny central piazza of Castiglione d’Orcia, the Piazza il Vecchietta, is dedicated to the Senesi painter, sculptor and architect, Lorenzo di Pietro (1412-1480), known as Il Vecchietta. In the center of the cobbled and sloping piazza there is a beautiful travertine fountain. The cobblestone piazza and its lovely fountain were built in the 1600s, but the rest of the town consists mostly of beautifully preserved medieval structures and streets.
We should have plenty of time to explore them. Link below.

https://www.visittuscany.com/en/towns-and-villages/castiglione-dorcia/

Lodgings for this evening are in B&B II Vecchietta. B&B “The Old Lady”.


Il Vecchietta is a bed and breakfast located in a quiet street in the historic centre of 
Castiglione d’Orcia , where you can only find typical stone houses from the medieval era, and from which you can see the two main monuments of the place: the ruins of the 
Rocca Aldobrandesca and the imposing 
Rocca di Tentennano . Looking further you can admire the splendid hills of the Orcia valley, covered with woods, rows of vineyards and olive groves.
The B&B takes its name from the Sienese painter of the 14th century, Lorenzo di Pietro, known precisely as “il Vecchietta”. 

A RECENT REVIEW “The owners of Il Vecchietta, Sylvia and Arturo, were such welcoming and kind hosts and I could not have asked for a more wonderful stay, if only it was longer. Their beautiful B&B is on the Via Francigena pilgrim path located in the historic center of Castiglione d’Orcia. My room was spacious, well furnished and with a great view of the Rocca di Tentennano. The bathroom was also excellent. It was great having access to the communal kitchen after a long day of walking . Sylvia was very accommodating of my early start the next day with a delicious homemade breakfast prepared for me and goodies to go! Thank you both for your generous hospitality and I do hope to return.”

Day IV on the Francigena to Rome.Thursday.12/06/25. A saunter of 21.5KM, from Buonconvento to San Quirico d’ Orcia. 623 + M elevation

15 Feb
AMEN
Continuing through the old town and after next city gate we turn left, crossing the highway and railroad tracks , through some suburbia, onto a path. After 2.6 km, we follow the Strada Proviniale del Brunello,leading up hill.
Archetypal Tuscan landscape with cypress trees.
Anticipating quiet roads.
The famous vineyards where Brunello di Montalcino is produced. Considered to be amongst Italy’s finest wines,produced from Sangiovese grapes. ( And one of Italy’s most expensive! )
The Altesino winery.
The Caparzo Winery.

The road continues along ridges with majestic views of the Tuscan countryside until we reach Torrenieri, with facilities.

“Torrenieri takes its name from a fortified outpost with a black (‘nero’) tower (‘torre’), either by virtue of having been built of dark stone or because the stone was blackened by fire. In 1452 Eleanor, Princess of Portugal, stayed here on her way to marry the emperor Federico III. Being on the Via Francigena, it is constantly traversed by pilgrims on their way to Rome. The diary of the travels of the Archbishop Sigeric from Canterbury describes the tower as having been a hostel from around the year 1,000 AD, but from the 12th-century became a private dwelling and later a castle. Dante may have stopped here during a trip to Rome. In the 14th-century several events in the town are recounted in the novel of the ninth day of the Decameron, by Giovanni Boccaccio. In the 18th-century census Torrenieri was described as “on the road from Siena to Rome, upon an easily accessible hill, entirely cultivated in vines and olives, the small castle of Torrenieri.”

Coffee, lunch, wine tasting…?
Main route through the town. A bus can be taken to San Quiricio to avoid the climb if needed.
A bronze sculpture of pilgrims’ feet next to the Church of Santa Maria Maddalena.
From here one enters into the panoramic Val d’Orcia, following the ascent until reaching the stopping point at the church of San Quirico d’Orcia.For the next hour or so we follow the Strada Provinciale Celamonti ( SP137). This is a long, but gradual climb to a summit. Descending we should see the outline of San Quiricio on a ridge between two hills ahead.
Not a lot of shade so we must be sure to have plenty of water aboard and a big hat!
San Quirico was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004.

Below are links to this beautiful town.

https://www.visitsanquirico.it/en/discover-news/must-see/san-quirico-dorcia-the-charm-of-history-the-beauty-of-the-landscape/

https://www.visitsanquirico.it/en/discover-news/must-see/san-quirico-dorcia-the-charm-of-history-the-beauty-of-the-landscape/

The accommodation for this evening is Hotel Palazzuolo, Via Santa Caterina, on the outskirts of the town. An 11 minute walk to Via Dante Alighieri, the way out of San Quirico.

The pool could be a popular spot.

Day three on the Francigena to Rome. From Lucignano to Buonconvento,13.8 KM. 11th June 2025

6 Feb

Don’t worry, we’ll be taking our time on what should be a short,relaxing stroll. In fact,time could be spent exploring the town before departure,if wanted and also stocking up on snacks / water.

Lucignano d’Arbia is a beautiful fortified village, which has carefully kept much of its original medieval architecture. We were greeted at the Porta Senese, the gateway into town, by the old brick,water well, where residents drew their daily water for centuries.

The tall solid brick tower, the Torre del Cassero, dates to the 13th century, as does the beautiful church of San Francesco; the church has a Gothic portal and frescoes by Bartolo di Fredi. The Pieve di San Giovanni Battista is Romanesque, with stone vaults and paintings.

San Francesco

Lucignano d’Arbia is compact and a pretty village to wander. Surrounding it are the postcard-like images of the Tuscan countryside with grape vines, rolling hills and cypress trees.

It’s a 2 km flat stroll to Quinciano to rejoin the main route .
Quinciano has a large palazzo and the 19 th century octagonal Chapel of Pieri Nerli.
Not much else by way of facilities . We walk parallel to a railway on a gravel track among fields of sunflowers for 3.6 KM, then arriving at the outskirts of Ponte d’ Arbia – it’s a 150 M walk into the town for refreshments.

This is an informative link to the history of Ponte d’Arbia.

https://www.google.com/url?q=http://centrocresti.it/en/history/&sa=U&sqi=2&ved=2ahUKEwirpbSssaqLAxUxXEEAHbRJLmcQFnoECDgQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2Km7YIzykpp2lASvOyRy9C

17 th century cartography
As historian Emanuele Repetti writes: “The Bridge of Arbia was built by the Commune of Siena in 1388, and rebuilt in 1656 under Prince Mattias de’ Medici, governor of that city, who ordinarily ordered the construction of the bridge over the Asso and that one on the Ombrone in front of Buonconvento, as it appears from the inscriptions still existing in their parapets.” (Repetti, 1835, IV, pp.535-526)

We walk uphill en route to Buonconvento, along a series of paths that keep us among fields and off the SR2. The climb is a little steeper towards the top – good views – and eventually pick up the SR2 Via Cassia just before the town, crossing the River Ombrone to enter Buonconvento via the Porto Sienes. About an hour’s walk from Ponte d’Arbia.

An excellent and beautifully illustrated guide to the town.

https://www.discovertuscany.com/crete-senesi/visit-buonconvento.html

Unusually for this part of Tuscany. It’s a medieval walled town (with post-war expansions) which is situated on a plain (and not a hill) at the intersection of the Arbia and Ombrone rivers, surrounded by the grey clay-scarred hills of the Crete Senesi. Located approximately 16 miles to the south-east of Siena ,the town became an important trading centre in the thirteenth century and later a military town for the City State of Siena, which presumably triggered the need for the high town walls and gates which were constructed between 1371 and 1383. 

The Via Soccini in what is regarded as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy . The name “ Buonconvento “ comes from the Latin “bonus conventus “meaning “ happy place”.
Medievale Cinto da Mura.
This is our accommodation- Hotel II Ghibellino Via Alighieri Dante, 1 – IT 53022 8
“One of the best breakfasts along the Francigena that we walked. Centrally located, with restaurants and bars nearby. Great staff”,from a recent review.

On a practical note, supermarket Il Frutteto Di Tatania and Charlie’s Pub pizzeria are very close by and recommended.

Day two on the Camino Francigena Siena to Rome – Tuesday 10th June, Siena to Lucignano, distance,21 KM. 407m elevation gain.

1 Feb

We make our first saunter along the Camino

Francigena .

It’s a 1.7 km walk to the Porto Romano (22 mins), the traditional exit point from the city. We shall have the first of many encounters with the historic Via Cassia,built by the Romans to connect Rome and Florence.

Expect vast farmlands, small hamlets and farmhouses. Red Sienese farmland is replaced by Crete Senesi – gray claylike soil – which gives its name to this region.After passing through an industrial zone,we walk into Isola d’Arbia. Fork right off the highway to a bar, if needed.

A little further on we encounter Ponte a Tressa,located at the confluence of the Tressa and Arabia rivers – pilgrim links date back to its 12 th century pilgrim hospital. 15th century Church of San Michele Arcangelo. Refreshments and bus stop available here,too.

Continuing among fields of Alfafa and grain until Grancia di Cuna ( water ). This one of Tuscany’s best-preserved fortified farms

After Cuna the road circles down, through duplex style homes and the on to a narrow path that climbs to a cell phone tower – expect wide vistas over the countryside. Very soon we come to Monteroni d’Arbia, the largest town in the area – all amenities.

After here there are no more facilities until Lucignano but it’s not too far to,our destination.

Hotel Borgo Antico

Via di Lucignano, 405 (bus stop outside)

La Francigena, a preview – Day one – Monday,9th June 2025. From Bham to Luton Airport, to Pisa. Then minibus transfer to Siena.

1 Feb

We leave Digbeth coach station at 07.05 ,arriving at Luton airport at 10.05.

Flight to Pisa, departing at 12.50, arriving in Pisa at 16.10 ( hour’s time difference ). Then to Siena by Sloways minibus. Expected arrival time after a journey of 125 KM – 19.00 at best – 12 hours…

This leaves little time for exploring Siena. I attach a link for your interest.

https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/st-dominics-basilica

I have been to Siena and it is a gem,but given time limits and a long day, I’ll settle for a stroll in the old streets, a drink in the square and dinner.” Chianti and Pizza” has been recommended.

Siena -Hotel Chiusarelli – where we are staying – Restaurant recommended,too.

Viale Curtatone, 15

This patio looks very inviting…