ASSORTED RAMBLERS SAUNTER ALONG THE CAMINO FRANCES – IN 3 STAGES

The Camino Frances is the most popular of the many Caminos that cross Europe, but principally Spain,Portugal and France. Since Covid, annual numbers are back approaching 350 000 Pelegrinos per annum.

Having walked it,over three years,2022/23/24,I can quite understand why.

The logistics are good – signage, accommodation is plentiful and varied,bars & cafes are usually available along the way – the paths are acceptable for most of the 900 Kilometres plus; inevitably there were a few exceptions, normally descents from mountain tops!

In early summer 2022, our party was made up of 8 SC Pelegrinos: Sue W. June, Mary,Anita, Tom,Rob,Mike and myself. We flew to Biarritz and got a minibus transfer to St Jean Pied de Port. From there it was our intention to walk to Burgos, in about a fortnight , often in very warm weather. The Pyrenees were magnificent.

One of the highlights came early, the first leg up the Pyrenees to Refuge Orisson. Despite some trepidation, everyone managed the first day’s climb quite comfortably and we spent a relaxing afternoon on the patio-balcony, enjoying the views across the Pyrenees.

It is a tradition at Orisson, which is the first night for most Pelegrinos to introduce themselves after the communal meal. We got to know North Americans, Australians, Koreans, Italians, French and some I have forgotten. Mea culpa.

For the next few days we would often casually meet up with them in cafes, or at a restaurant in the evening.

Many of them were intending to walk all the way to Santiago de Compostela,taking five or six weeks, and staying overnight in traditional albergues en route – that is some achievement – bear in mind that sleeping arrangements are in bunk beds in dormitories of various sizes, with usually a communal kitchen to prepare your evening meal, lights out by ten and out next morning by 08.00. Very often payment is by donation – usually €10.00.

We were “ Ensuitepilgrims” and unashamedly so!

All our accommodation was booked in advance six months before departure- after a day’s walk you need the certainty of a room, your own shower and loo, plus sometimes even a balcony.

To obtain your Compostela ( certificate of completion ) it is necessary to get your Pilgrim Passport stamped at least once a day – normally where you stayed the night. These are available in all accommodations,bars, restaurants and churches, if you found one that was open.

We enjoyed some interesting food and….beverages

We stayed in some atmospheric places

STAGE II BURGOS TO ASTORGA

In 2023, we were fewer in number, Ranjit joined the group which was now minus June,Mary and Anita – six in all. We flew to Madrid and transferred by coach back up to Burgos. The weather was quite cool for the first few days and for the first time in over fifty years visiting Spain, I was glad to have trousers rather than shorts. A large section of this walk to Astorga,over a fortnight again, was across a huge, flat plain called the Meseta. Quite a contrast to the previous year’s walk – it is a unique experience and despite its reputation for flatness, there were always places of interest along the way, as all villages and towns have a story or two in their history of serving and welcoming pilgrims over many centuries.

There were some interesting constructions en route

These was great food and drink to be enjoyed as ever on a Camino.

The weather warmed up as we walked further westwards but not approaching the heat of last year .

We always managed to find a place for a drink stop

As we approached Astorga – our final destination – I looked back over the fortnight and wondered how anyone could find the Meseta section boring; we had a great experience.

STAGE III – ASTORGA TO SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA

Finally,Summer of’24 and the group underwent a striking change in make up.

Mike, Rob,Tom and myself were joined by our very own Christina and four ramblers from Solihull : Val ( a former, long-standing colleague of mine ) her brother Ray, Myra and Richard. The group met on two occasions prior to the Camino, getting to know one another. So that was five “first time” Pelegrinos which proved to be very refreshing, seeing and enjoying things for the first time, it brought back the essential joy and simplicity of the Camino.

Ryanair changed the flight days which meant leaving two days earlier -this meant an additional day in Astorga – that was no hardship as it is one of the most fascinating ( small ) cities on the Camino, with plenty to enjoy and explore .

We set off eventually, in fine weather , 269 KM to S de C. which would include the two highest climbs of the entire Camino and two careful descents.

We were never without views of mountain ranges for the first few days and they were a splendid backdrop. The new members soon adjusted to the routine of cases at Reception by 08.00 ( to be transported by the ever reliable Spanish post office – the Correos – all booked well ahead. Setting off time was down to individuals, we didn’t process!The signage ( follow the arrows ) was as reliable as ever and as this is the most populous section of the Frances, there were always Pelegrinos not far away.

In the Galician countryside you come across these constructions in every farmyard and in many people’s gardens – I love them.

Christina, never one to let a challenge go unmet, took a dip in the pool on a very chilly ( to me !) day.

Evening routine was a meeting at 19.00 – “ Sharpeners” where over an aperitif the next day’s walk would be discussed,followed by dinner together, which was invariably good fun, once the menu had been explained!

We traversed some lovely landscapes

At one hotel we were offered complimentary drinks if we agreed to pose for a photo

We did not experience much rain but on one occasion we had to improvise some rainwear from two bin sacks given to us by a friendly girl behind the bar in which we were sheltering.

There were so many memorable places and times on this stage – to get the full picture go to “ ensuitepilgrim.blog.wordpress.com” for fuller accounts of all three stages. Just scroll through the Archives on the right.

The Camino is Drink,Eat,Sleep,Walk and repeat – imagine a fortnight’s sauntering and not really knowing anything much about where you would be eating, drinking sleeping every night – that’s probably the best part.

My grateful thanks to all the Pelegrinos who joined us on all three stages of this Camino – especially their good humour and stamina.