ensuitepilgrim's Blog

We eventually got breakfast here after 2 1/2 hours, more than welcome Tostada with Tomato, salt and olive oil,some local ham for protein more like Brunch by 10.30.

Split decision this morning as some of the group wanted to walk the entire Etape and some wanted to take a taxi to Ponferrada- 6 km – and tour the Templar Castle. So be it and I was in the latter group which was quickly taken to Ponferrada. On climbing up to the castle entrance we discovered that it was closed Mondays! I wasn’t too disappointed as I have often found that the exterior of castles, like French chateaux, more interesting than the interior and often gone inside out of a sense of duty rather than curiosity.There was the barrio historico to compensate and a needed ATM found in the new town. Whilst waiting ,we saw on the Pharmacia clock that it was 18* ( 09.00 ). Tom disputed this saying it wasn’t that warm because the hairs on his legs were still upwards! Tom, out human barometer.

We retrieved our steps and met up with the other group coincidentally,in one of the squares. Second breakfast time.

We walked out of Ponferrada along a pleasant path by the side of the river.

Walking on to Columbrianos and its hermitage.

Some of the views and some of the Pelegrinos:-

Then our digs for the night - El Monclao de Lazaro – unique.

A very misty skyline with a few breaks in the cloud – no rain forecast – sunny intervals late afternoon.

Climbing on pretty good terrain, wet in places because of heavy overnight rain, we eventually reached the summit.

https://caminoways.com/cruz-de-ferro

The five guidebooks I have used for the Camino Frances have been almost faultless in their unique ways in detailing information about routes, accommodation, local history and mapping. However, they all omit to mention the difficulty level of the final 900 metres descent. Of all the Caminos I have walked including the Primitivo, the climb across the Pyrenees, the valleys of the Camino del Norte, nothing comes close to the challenges of both the path and the awful terrain in many stretches of this descent.

The difficulty was exacerbated by recent heavy rainfall but even taking that into account it still remains inexplicable that the guidebooks do not go into any details of the dangers of this section . I got so fed up with it I reverted to the nearby road which mercifully was very quiet ( Sunday ). I even managed then to get a couple of photos as the mist began to clear .

“Do you know the origin of that word ‘saunter?’ It’s a beautiful word. Away back in the Middle Ages people used to go on pilgrimages to the Holy Land, and when people in the villages through which they passed asked where they were going, they would reply, “A la sainte terre,’ ‘To the Holy Land.’ And so they became known as sainte-terre-ers or saunterers. Now these mountains are our Holy Land, and we ought to saunter through them reverently, not ‘hike’ through them.” John Muir. AS IS THE CAMINO!

A punctual departure from Astorga, without breakfast, though each one had a snack and a drink of some kind. Christina even had a ready made paper carton of cafe latte!

Once again I am indebted to Val & Christina for sharing photos, far superior to mine.

We anticipated walking about 5 Km to our breakfast coffee stop.

We walked through SANTA CATALINA then EL GANSO, peaceful, pretty villages – red roses do well here.

We reached here at 13.00, five hours walking and two 30 minute breaks en route. A good start,blessed with fine weather. We had anticipated rain which came later than expected at 16.45 and expected to continue overnight. The forecast for Sunday is dry with sunny periods – if that turns out to be the case we shall be blessed again as we have a couple of challenging climbs to make.

Arrival at Birmingham Airport by train with Christina and Tom was straightforward enough and considering the amount of structural work taking place, checking-in and security was quite efficient.

Some of us gathered in the Spoons for coffee and a bite and we whiled away the time with a seminar on cryptic cross words, led by Tom using the Guardian Saturday Quick Cryptic puzzle, with clues.

I still feel quite clueless, despite getting a couple right.

Departure to Madrid was 30 minutes late, but a smooth flight ensued.

Barajas airport seemed quiet and we were through to the taxi rank in record time and taking three taxis for the group we soon arrived at Hotel Clemente to check in to our accommodation at Fly Rooms.

After a quick turn around we met back in the very cool Hotel Clemente bar, for a “ sharpener” .

Then, on to a local restaurant, La Vino de PEREA , where we were quickly seated in the shade. Helpful menu + specials in English.

We had a very convivial meal which everyone enjoyed, although I did say that this level of fare was a cut above what we might usually expect, but it was our first night so why not something a little special?

We were back in Hotel Clemente on Thursday morning for a state of the art breakfast, with a selection of hot dishes as well as fresh fruit,,cereals and cake.

Taxis had been booked for 09.00 for Terminal Four back at the airport and we were there quickly enough. Madrid airport is a huge place but well designed and the road system is exemplary.

The estacion de autobuses is only a couple of years old and we were soon seated with Christina directing what turned out to be a hilarious game of UNO,using two cases as a card table.

Our ALSA coach was a comfortable twin axle vehicle and we took a route around Madrid, calling at two smaller coach stations before eventually exiting the city .

En route, Rob pointed out a tall cross on the hillside to our left – it was overlooking the Valley of the Fallen where Franco was interred. However, the government decided to exhume the body as it was agreed by a majority that the dictator’s remains had no place amongst the fallen of the Spanish civil war.

https://99percentinvisible.org/episode/valley-of-the-fallen/

We arrived mid afternoon in 30* temperatures and made the 11 minute walk to our hotel IMPRENTA MUSICAL ALOJIOMENTO.

Mike and I decided to take advantage of the balcony and get some washing done.

With the best part of a sunny afternoon and early evening to spare we went on a random kind of walkabout of this fascinating city.

Friday promised mostly sunshine with showers possibly late on. The forecast for Saturday’s first walk was wet and so we have decided to make a 07.00 start to Rabanal del Camino – 20 km. Tomorrow.

Mike and I enjoyed a late start and a very enjoyable traditional breakfast of tostadas con tomato y hamon, with fresh orange juice and coffee – €4.00!

We then walked the Camino out of the city to be sure of our route tomorrow. Passing a church that reminded me of my granddaughter, Martha.

We then passed another very modern church.

We were surprised to notice a plaque on the wall of a house dedicated to an English hero.

We reached the edge of town where the Camino begins for real.

Retracing our steps we took in some of the buildings for which Astorga is renowned .

At 16.30 the Chocolate Museo opens . Let’s go, something different. What has chocolate got to do with Astorga; what has chocolate got to do with Cadbury’s Bournville? Both unlikely places.

The storm came in about 18.30, so Rob, Tom, Mike and I took shelter in a tiny bar, El Rincon, about 150 M from our hotel. A simple, locals’ favourite. I rang the rest of the group to say we could have a good night here…and we did….super service and incredible value for money . Enjoyable night and it has stopped raining,thundering and lightning as we walked back to the hotel.