The Last Etape and on to Santiago 19KM.“Nature’s beauty in Galicia’s embrace along the Camino de Santiago is a symphony of majestic landscapes, where lush green valleys dance with sparkling rivers, and ancient forests whisper tales of pilgrims past. Each step reveals a painting of ethereal beauty, a testament to the enchanting allure of Galicia’s untamed wilderness.”

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=tpyqie-2bqA&si=gEDhV3MHWe9Uxy4w “ Country Roads”, John Denver

Waxing lyrical:

“In my soul I am a farmer. I see the worms and the small things on the ground along the way, note the plants that thrive and know this earth is rich and alive.

I could grow things here.

In my heart I am a fisherman. I stand beside the rivers and streams and watch the fish jump.

I could feed myself here.

I know how to grow things. I know how to fish. These are gifts given to me at childhood by my parents.

I may struggle to converse with the people I pass. But Spain… the land, speaks to me in a language I understand.

I could live here and be happy.”

In my soul I am a farmer. I see the worms and the small things on the ground along the way, note the plants that thrive and know this earth is rich and alive.

I could grow things here.

In my heart I am a fisherman. I stand beside the rivers and streams and watch the fish jump.

I could feed myself here.

I know how to grow things. I know how to fish. These are gifts given to me at childhood by my parents.

I may struggle to converse with the people I pass. But Spain… the land, speaks to me in a language I understand.

I could live here and be happy.

In my soul I am a farmer. I see the worms and the small things on the ground along the way, note the plants that thrive and know this earth is rich and alive.

I could grow things here.

In my heart I am a fisherman. I stand beside the rivers and streams and watch the fish jump.

I could feed myself here.

I know how to grow things. I know how to fish. These are gifts given to me at childhood by my parents.

I may struggle to converse with the people I pass. But Spain… the land, speaks to me in a language I understand.

I could live here and be happy.

https://open.spotify.com/track/1ZnB0XFVfp6HCVKFQwHnp2?si=yAWYlUttS-SWaG-Yi-XIIQ&context=spotify%3Aalbum%3A70KmSrFeQFbgxFy02OvPwA

At this point and before we begin our Camino from Astorga on. 20 th June 2024, it is worth remembering a few of the things that differentiate a camino from a holiday. We all undertake our Camino for a vast array of reasons.

**DECELERATION** – A Camino can be an “ Oasis of deceleration “ Below are some notes I made at a seminar on “ Slowness on the Camino” . At Southwark Cathedral about 5 years ago.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=j81sy1Ibf9M&si=RUMjzKn5646aVhJC “ Walk Don’t Run” by The Ventures

Travel per day – walking is the ultimate slow mode. Natural rhythm

Experience of physical discomfort / pain. Overcoming challenges

Listening to what your body tells you

These inhibit…slows you down, more reflective more likely to engage face to face with others.

Decrease in number and variety of actions per day

Simplicity of experiences

Reduction of consumer choice Eg Menu Del Dia / Pelegrino Eg lunch is not Pret A Manger with 30 different sandwiches/ soups

Walk, Eat, Sleep – a different bed every night and being grateful

You have only to consider what time you start, where you are going to finish

What to have for breakfast

Where/when to have a break

Hostal or hotel

Dinner? Or Tapas trail ?

There are many ‘What a lovely wonderful day that was’ on the Camino but there are also days that are more difficult, ‘Thank Goodness that’s over’. History shows us that such was always the pilgrims’ role.

14th Century Pilgrimage to SdC

Licensees authorizing the owners and captions of ships to carry a fixed number of pilgrims to Spain are still in existence and fill many pages of Thomas Rymer’s book ‘Foedera’. They are written in Latin, the name of the ship in French. The pilgrims must swear before leaving England: they must upon their oath do nothing contrary to the obedience and fealty they owe the king; they must not take out of the realm gold or silver or bullion beyond what is necessary to their journey, and they must not reveal the secrets of the realm. Don’t think for a minute that these ships, one hundred pilgrims and crew on a long journey were large, well-appointed vessels. The pilgrims suffered from overcrowding, seasickness, the fear of storms, disgusting smells, and the derision of the sailors. They very much resembled the jam-packed pilgrim ships on the Red Sea of our recent history which brought crowds of believers to Jeddah, Muslims on their way to Mecca. Our example dates from 1394: “Know you that we have given license to Oto Chambernoun, William Gilbert, and Richard Gilbert, to receive and embark in the harbor of Dartmouth a hundred pilgrims in a certain ship belonging to the same Oto, William, and Richard, called la Charite de Paynton, of which Peter Cok I captain; and to take them to Saint James, there to fulfill their vows, and from thence to bring them back to England, freely and without hindrance, notwithstanding ordinances to the contrary.”

We got it easy.

Sit back and relax for now,**: “I’m not telling you it’s going to be easy, I’m telling you it’ll be worth it.” ”**

There is a saying in Spanish “cada día tiene su afán” which translates to “Every day has its desire.” I love this saying because so true in life and especially on the Camino. Each day there some new challenge; weather, terrain or aches and pains. But it is important to remember these things are temporary or tomorrow offers something new. 🙏😊

On leaving O Acrivo we very soon walk through Pedrouzo, following the arrows as we go. There is very little to say about this modernised town – no myths nor monuments – generally full of pilgrims like us ,excited and relieved to have got so far.

Amenal is merely a pit- stop but has a popular cafe

We shall be walking beneath Eucalyptus for some way until we come upon the Lavacolla airport. There are many theories in relation to the origin of the place name Lavacolla. One of the theories claims the name Lavacolla comes from the fact that pilgrims in the Middle Ages used to wash in the stream that crosses Lavacolla to arrive clean in Santiago. This is one of the theories you might hear from the guides of the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela if you take a rooftop tour of the cathedral. This theory implies the name Lava-colla could come from the words ‘lavar’ (to wash) and ‘cuello’ (neck), meaning ‘to wash the neck’. There is a more earthy interpretation but…You may notice discarded items of clothing by the stream – as we walk around the perimeter of the airport.

A sure sign that our rural oddysey is behind us.

The best campsite for Santiago in my opinion

Monument on **Monte de Gozo** .Monte do Gozo (**Hill of joy**) is the last hill on the Camino de Santiago before reaching Santiago de Compostela. From this hill the pilgrims can see the three spires of the cathedral for the first time. On top of the hill there is a modern religious sculpture and a park, plus a chapel .

Capilla de San Marcos – last place outside of the city to obtain a sello. This was the site of a medieval chapel and marks the original site of the look out point at which pilgrims stood to get their fist glimpse of the cathedral spires – hence Gozo meaning joy .

**Made of two giant pilgrims pointing the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral**. It was built in the 1993 Holy Year and was design by the Galician sculptor Acuña..

The Camino continues and takes us into the suburbs of Santiago, Rua do Peregrino and a flight of steps to join the city’s traffic.

San Lazaro. (Last time I came by here it was open and there were parishioners issuing stamps for your passport and directions to the cathedral . )Witness to the leprosarium that existed here in the XIIth Century sufficiently far enough away from the city walls to exclude contamination

The path enters Santiago on the west side via San Lazaro. The Rua dos Concheiros which flows into rua San Pedro and crosses into the medieval walls of Santiago at Puerta del Camino, leaving a final few hundred Kms to reach Kilometre Zero at the cathedral. John Brierley’s advice is worth regarding on your arrival…..” “Take time to arrive . We each experience different emotions, from euphoria to disappointment, on seeing the cathedral . Whatever your individual reactions, honour and accept them . Gratitude for safe arrival is a frequent response but if you are overwhelmed by the crowds why not return later when you feel more composed …”

**I have often sat here and watched the joyful,sometimes tearful arrivals.**

There is a tradition of having both an individual and a group photo taken on arriving in the Praza Obradoiro

Codex Calixtinus: “ Compostella, the most excellent city of the Apostle,complete with all delights , having in its care the valuable body of St. James, on account of which it is recognised as the luckiest and noblest city in Spain”.

There are certain rituals associated with Santiago, no obligation .

https://www.spainismore.com/blog/all-about-el-camino/rituals-and-customs-on-the-camino-de-santiago/455

The Botafumeiro – It goes with a swing - Pilgrims’ mass.

Another comprehensive link:

https://www.fundacionjacobea.org/en/santiago-of-compostela/traditions-and-rites-what-did-the-pilgrim-do-on-arriving-in-santiago-in-past-centuries/

There is so much to see in Santiago de Compostela and the link below is helpful in making decisions about what to do. Take your pilgrim passport with you as it enables free entrance into some places. If there is a fee, it is worth asking if there is a discount for “Jubilados “ – Retirees.

https://caminoways.com/10-things-to-do-in-santiago-de-compostela