PALAS de REI to MELIDE. 15 KM

13 May

Fairly flat terrain – well made paths. The N-547 will be near at times and we shall have it for occasional company and crossings as far as Arzua

Much woodlands from Oak to Eucalyptus to traverse today. The first settlement of any consequence is San Xulian do Camino

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=SwUG5BcsRmk&si=dMbzyP-cXIp2AOWM WITCHWOOD by The Strawbs.

Iglesia de San Xulian . Saint Julian is one of the favoured saints of the Camino and is the patron of hospitaliers and hoteliers. However, the legend that surrounds his calling is a dark one.

SAN XULIÁN HAS A SHOCKING STORY TO TELL

According to legend*, when Xulián was a young man, it was prophesied that he would one day kill his own parents. To keep the prophecy from coming true, Xulián left town in an effort to stay away from his parents and keep them safe from his own hand. He eventually built a new life for himself away from his parents (likely in Portugal) and married a young woman.

Soon after Xulián’s marriage, his parents set out to locate their lost son’s new home and found his wife there alone. She, unaware of the prophecy, was thrilled to finally meet her mother and father-in-law, welcoming them into the home and even offering hers and Xulián’s bed to the weary travelers while she attended church.

Unfortunately, Xulián soon returned home before his wife and unexpectedly found two people in his bed. Assuming that it was his wife and a secret lover, he murdered both of his sleeping parents in a blind rage.

Immediately realizing his mistake and that the prophecy had come true, Xulián and his wife began a pilgrimage to Rome to seek forgiveness for his sins from the pope. As his penance, Xulián was ordered to devote his life to caring for pilgrims. He did so, and he and his wife were both canonized as saints after their deaths. This story is entirely according to legend and is not officially verified by the Catholic church, but it makes for a good tale, anyway.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=Ea_GmMMVbUk&si=5uo-S2RCA-uEG043 “ Woman in the Wall” – The Beautiful South

Reaching Casanova and it’s solitary Albergue we walk 2.8 km further on to O Coto – a good choice of cafes here –

It is here that we cross from the region of Lugo to A Coruna and a village noted in the **Codex Calixtinus** – Leboreiro – as a good pilgrim stop in the 11-13 th centuries. However, its significance had dimmed over the centuries, but remains a pleasant, peaceful spot.

The church of Santa Maria –
Rebuilt in the 18th century this church has an interesting legend attributed to its founding. It was said that a nearby fountain was emanting a “heavenly odor” and at night a “shining light”. Villagers, seeing this as a sign from above, proceeded to dig at the source of this divine intervention and found an image of the Virgin Mary there. They immediately placed it on the altar of the church. The one catch was that the image would not stay where it was placed and somehow returned to the fountain. This pattern repeated itself over several days until the villagers carved the tympanum we see here today and dedicated the church to the Virgin Mary. Satisfied, the image of the Virgin remained on the altar and has been in the church ever since. To add to the legend, it was believed by villagers in the 1960’s that the she returned to the fountain every night to comb her hair.
And another style of granary used for storing harvested foods. On leaving we cross a single arch bridge over the River Seco

Fancy a paddle? Possibly a calmer setting than Bruce Springsteen’s “ The River”

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=y7BUXRsTbvI&si=kbbpFG2rQI-8rE0z

Onwards to Furelos and a more memorable bridge .

Village with an ancient origin, it was recorded in 12th century documents and it maintains part of its medieval structure. Its medieval bridge is one of the jewels of civil architecture in all Ways of St. James. Without a doubt, whatsoever, it is the most beautiful bridge in the whole Galician route of the French Way. It is mentioned in the monastic cartularies of Sobrado (12th century) and it was partially remodelled in the 18th century

San Xoán de Furelos Church, just next to the French Way, preserves part of its Medieval Romanesque architecture, and more specifically, its southern wall. Inside, on the right side, we can find the impressive Neogothic altarpiece of the Santo Cristo, which was created by the sculptor born in Furelos, Manuel Cagide.
The Ethnographical Museum of Melide was recently opened, just next to the church and the bridge.

Iglesia de San Xoan – during the peak of the pilgrimage in 11-12 th centuries, Furelos and other villages with pilgrim hospitals and churches were protected by The Order of Hospitaliers of San Juan

South of Furelos from the Camino,archaeologists have unearthed much older guardians of the land and people,such as 2000 year old burial grounds called mamoas.

Mamoas – this area is littered with Castries,dolmens and mamoas – many are yet to excavated – the Museo Terra de Melide is a good place for further information.

And finally, Melide.

The northwest region of Spain has been inhabited since the Neolithic period. Melide itself began to grow and become important after the discovery of the tomb of Saint James.

From the 10th Century, Melide grew as the popularity of the Camino de Santiago did. With the increasing number of pilgrims on both the Primitivo and French routes, traders and innkeepers began to set up along these routes.

In the early 14th Century, the Archbishop of Santiago, Berenguel de Landoira stayed in Melide on his way to Santiago to take up his Bishopric. To thank the village for their hospitality, he granted them permission to build a fortress and charge taxes.

In the 15th Century, Melide played a central role in the Irmandiña Revolts against the power of the local barons. It was during these revolts that the walls of the town and the fortress were destroyed. The stone however was later used in the construction of the Convent of Sancti Spiritus.

In the 19th Century, Melide played its role in the fight against Napoleon’s troops during the War of Independence. Despite being outnumbered by the French the troops managed to push the French into a retreat. Less than half of the fighters had firearms, but they were assisted by villagers wielding rudimentary tools and sharpened sticks.

Despite many people leaving the town since the 1950’s Melide is still going strong. Today, tourism from the Camino plays a major role in the economy of the town, alongside more traditional agricultural activities.

Melide, located in the region of Galicia in northwest Spain, is the only town where two Camino routes meet. The Camino Primitivo(Original Way) stops in Melide and the Camino Frances (French Way) passes through.

This town is well equipped and accustomed to helping pilgrims. After all, the Primitivo is the oldest route and the French is the busiest! I have stayed in Melide at least twice . Once 20 years ago on my first Camino and relatively recently , coming in on the Camino Primitivo.