Archive | May, 2024

The Last Etape and on to Santiago 19KM.“Nature’s beauty in Galicia’s embrace along the Camino de Santiago is a symphony of majestic landscapes, where lush green valleys dance with sparkling rivers, and ancient forests whisper tales of pilgrims past. Each step reveals a painting of ethereal beauty, a testament to the enchanting allure of Galicia’s untamed wilderness.”

28 May

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=tpyqie-2bqA&si=gEDhV3MHWe9Uxy4w “ Country Roads”, John Denver

A typical landscape

Waxing lyrical:

“In my soul I am a farmer. I see the worms and the small things on the ground along the way, note the plants that thrive and know this earth is rich and alive.

I could grow things here.

In my heart I am a fisherman. I stand beside the rivers and streams and watch the fish jump.

I could feed myself here.

I know how to grow things. I know how to fish. These are gifts given to me at childhood by my parents.

I may struggle to converse with the people I pass. But Spain… the land, speaks to me in a language I understand.

I could live here and be happy.”

In my soul I am a farmer. I see the worms and the small things on the ground along the way, note the plants that thrive and know this earth is rich and alive.

I could grow things here.

In my heart I am a fisherman. I stand beside the rivers and streams and watch the fish jump.

I could feed myself here.

I know how to grow things. I know how to fish. These are gifts given to me at childhood by my parents.

I may struggle to converse with the people I pass. But Spain… the land, speaks to me in a language I understand.

I could live here and be happy.

In my soul I am a farmer. I see the worms and the small things on the ground along the way, note the plants that thrive and know this earth is rich and alive.

I could grow things here.

In my heart I am a fisherman. I stand beside the rivers and streams and watch the fish jump.

I could feed myself here.

I know how to grow things. I know how to fish. These are gifts given to me at childhood by my parents.

I may struggle to converse with the people I pass. But Spain… the land, speaks to me in a language I understand.

I could live here and be happy.

https://open.spotify.com/track/1ZnB0XFVfp6HCVKFQwHnp2?si=yAWYlUttS-SWaG-Yi-XIIQ&context=spotify%3Aalbum%3A70KmSrFeQFbgxFy02OvPwA

Bella Vista

At this point and before we begin our Camino from Astorga on. 20 th June 2024, it is worth remembering a few of the things that differentiate a camino from a holiday. We all undertake our Camino for a vast array of reasons.

DECELERATION – A Camino can be an “ Oasis of deceleration “ Below are some notes I made at a seminar on “ Slowness on the Camino” . At Southwark Cathedral about 5 years ago.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=j81sy1Ibf9M&si=RUMjzKn5646aVhJC “ Walk Don’t Run” by The Ventures

Travel per day – walking is the ultimate slow mode. Natural rhythm

Experience of physical discomfort / pain. Overcoming challenges

Listening to what your body tells you

These inhibit…slows you down, more reflective more likely to engage face to face with others.

Decrease in number and variety of actions per day

Simplicity of experiences

Reduction of consumer choice Eg Menu Del Dia / Pelegrino Eg lunch is not Pret A Manger with 30 different sandwiches/ soups

Walk, Eat, Sleep – a different bed every night and being grateful

You have only to consider what time you start, where you are going to finish

What to have for breakfast

Where/when to have a break

Hostal or hotel

Dinner? Or Tapas trail ?

Let’s go back a few centuries

There are many ‘What a lovely wonderful day that was’ on the Camino but there are also days that are more difficult, ‘Thank Goodness that’s over’. History shows us that such was always the pilgrims’ role.

14th Century Pilgrimage to SdC

Licensees authorizing the owners and captions of ships to carry a fixed number of pilgrims to Spain are still in existence and fill many pages of Thomas Rymer’s book ‘Foedera’. They are written in Latin, the name of the ship in French. The pilgrims must swear before leaving England: they must upon their oath do nothing contrary to the obedience and fealty they owe the king; they must not take out of the realm gold or silver or bullion beyond what is necessary to their journey, and they must not reveal the secrets of the realm. Don’t think for a minute that these ships, one hundred pilgrims and crew on a long journey were large, well-appointed vessels. The pilgrims suffered from overcrowding, seasickness, the fear of storms, disgusting smells, and the derision of the sailors. They very much resembled the jam-packed pilgrim ships on the Red Sea of our recent history which brought crowds of believers to Jeddah, Muslims on their way to Mecca. Our example dates from 1394: “Know you that we have given license to Oto Chambernoun, William Gilbert, and Richard Gilbert, to receive and embark in the harbor of Dartmouth a hundred pilgrims in a certain ship belonging to the same Oto, William, and Richard, called la Charite de Paynton, of which Peter Cok I captain; and to take them to Saint James, there to fulfill their vows, and from thence to bring them back to England, freely and without hindrance, notwithstanding ordinances to the contrary.”

We got it easy.

Sit back and relax for now,: “I’m not telling you it’s going to be easy, I’m telling you it’ll be worth it.” ”

There is a saying in Spanish “cada día tiene su afán” which translates to “Every day has its desire.” I love this saying because so true in life and especially on the Camino. Each day there some new challenge; weather, terrain or aches and pains. But it is important to remember these things are temporary or tomorrow offers something new. 🙏😊

On leaving O Acrivo we very soon walk through Pedrouzo, following the arrows as we go. There is very little to say about this modernised town – no myths nor monuments – generally full of pilgrims like us ,excited and relieved to have got so far.

Amenal is merely a pit- stop but has a popular cafe

Possible fellow travellers

We shall be walking beneath Eucalyptus for some way until we come upon the Lavacolla airport. There are many theories in relation to the origin of the place name Lavacolla. One of the theories claims the name Lavacolla comes from the fact that pilgrims in the Middle Ages used to wash in the stream that crosses Lavacolla to arrive clean in Santiago. This is one of the theories you might hear from the guides of the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela if you take a rooftop tour of the cathedral. This theory implies the name Lava-colla could come from the words ‘lavar’ (to wash) and ‘cuello’ (neck), meaning ‘to wash the neck’. There is a more earthy interpretation but…You may notice discarded items of clothing by the stream – as we walk around the perimeter of the airport.

Wooden crosses in the airport fence
A sure sign that our rural oddysey is behind us.
The best campsite for Santiago in my opinion
Monument on Monte de Gozo .Monte do Gozo (Hill of joy) is the last hill on the Camino de Santiago before reaching Santiago de Compostela. From this hill the pilgrims can see the three spires of the cathedral for the first time. On top of the hill there is a modern religious sculpture and a park, plus a chapel .
Capilla de San Marcos – last place outside of the city to obtain a sello. This was the site of a medieval chapel and marks the original site of the look out point at which pilgrims stood to get their fist glimpse of the cathedral spires – hence Gozo meaning joy .

Made of two giant pilgrims pointing the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral. It was built in the 1993 Holy Year and was design by the Galician sculptor Acuña..

The Camino continues and takes us into the suburbs of Santiago, Rua do Peregrino and a flight of steps to join the city’s traffic.

San Lazaro. (Last time I came by here it was open and there were parishioners issuing stamps for your passport and directions to the cathedral . )Witness to the leprosarium that existed here in the XIIth Century sufficiently far enough away from the city walls to exclude contamination

The path enters Santiago on the west side via San Lazaro. The Rua dos Concheiros which flows into rua San Pedro and crosses into the medieval walls of Santiago at Puerta del Camino, leaving a final few hundred Kms to reach Kilometre Zero at the cathedral. John Brierley’s advice is worth regarding on your arrival…..” “Take time to arrive . We each experience different emotions, from euphoria to disappointment, on seeing the cathedral . Whatever your individual reactions, honour and accept them . Gratitude for safe arrival is a frequent response but if you are overwhelmed by the crowds why not return later when you feel more composed …”

I have often sat here and watched the joyful,sometimes tearful arrivals.
There is a tradition of having both an individual and a group photo taken on arriving in the Praza Obradoiro
SC Ramblers – 2020

Codex Calixtinus: “ Compostella, the most excellent city of the Apostle,complete with all delights , having in its care the valuable body of St. James, on account of which it is recognised as the luckiest and noblest city in Spain”.

There are certain rituals associated with Santiago, no obligation .

https://www.spainismore.com/blog/all-about-el-camino/rituals-and-customs-on-the-camino-de-santiago/455

The Botafumeiro – It goes with a swing - Pilgrims’ mass.

Another comprehensive link:

https://www.fundacionjacobea.org/en/santiago-of-compostela/traditions-and-rites-what-did-the-pilgrim-do-on-arriving-in-santiago-in-past-centuries/

There is so much to see in Santiago de Compostela and the link below is helpful in making decisions about what to do. Take your pilgrim passport with you as it enables free entrance into some places. If there is a fee, it is worth asking if there is a discount for “Jubilados “ – Retirees.

https://caminoways.com/10-things-to-do-in-santiago-de-compostela

Casa Antigua for a walkabout

“Who Would True Valour See…To Be A Pilgrim “.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=KY3MnQRVmOc&si=SHpFNuN__pbqtwFV

THE PENULTIMATE LEG – ARZUA TO O PEDROUZO – 21 KM

26 May

Earth is crammed with heaven,

And every common bush afire with God,

But only she who sees

takes off her shoes.

-Elizabeth Barrett Browning

The Camino continues out through the old quarter of the town.

The trail passes through numerous hamlets. There’s just a bit of undulation with several shallow river valleys. Most of the trail is off road with shade from the prolific Eucalyptus trees.

Then locals in these parts enjoy telling you without the slightest tone of irony or sarcasm that “ no hay vacas in Galicia “ ( there are no cows in Galicia )….mmm. Another corker is :
“No hay burro calvo, ni calabaza con pelo!” 
(” “There is no bald donkey and no pumpkin with hair.” ) I can clarify: it’s an idiom that basically means “don’t bullshit me” or, more generally, used in situations where something is clearly exaggerated, false, etc. I would add that there might be a second layer of irony to this, in the context of a conversation about Trump, because he’s often made fun of for his orange-colored fake tan, and people have often called him a pumpkin. So he sort of is a pumpkin with hair…

How did we get here ? Let’s leave this diversion and get back on to the Camino .

Striding out we soon reach a tiny place,Preguntono.
We go under the N- 547 by a tunnel and reach Taberna Velha and the Wall of Wisdom that has been “modernized” (i.e. laminated) to survive the elements of the Camino. It has inspirational quotes to motivate tired and worn peregrinos as they finish their final kilometers to Santiago de Compostela.
In John Brierley’s guide he says, it depends on one’s perspective

After all that philosophy we shall be ready for refreshments and here is just the place.

Casa Calzada – only if you’ve got the bottle for it.

We soon reach A Calle, a typical Camino village

We walk under the Horreos, towards Salceda.
A handy bridge.
N-547

PLEASE NOTE

The path joins the road at  Salceda , and although you don’t walk on the road, you stay quite close. In fact, the path crosses the highway several times between here and Santiago. The speed of the traffic, the curves in the road and the abundance of pilgrims make this the most dangerous stretch along the path. Cross carefully and quickly and always stay under the road when possible.

Son after leaving Salceda we pass a poignant memorial


The monument is of a bronze pair of his shoes and people are known to leave little gifts beside the monument. The plaque at the side says “Guillermo Watt Peregrino, Abrazo a dios a los 69 años a una jornada de Santiago el 25 de Agosto 1993, año santo, vivas en Christo.”
He died one day before reaching S de C.

The next place of interest as we near the end of this stage is Santa Irene. At 25 km from Santiago de Compostela, the small and beautiful village of Santa Irene, belonging to the municipality of O Pino.

Here you can find good places to eat and rest. One of the most interesting places in the locality are the hermitage and the fountain, since important curative powers are attributed to it and therefore, it hides several legends.

For many the water emanating from this source is able to kill pests and plagues of crops, so it was used to spray the crops. Also, it is presumed that it cured all the ills of children, who stopped crying when they passed by the image of the Saint. It was previously decorated with the image of the Saint, but this beautiful piece from 1692 was stolen in the eighties.


Chapel of Saint Irene
Perfectly located at the foot of the Camino de Santiago, you will see this beautiful and well known chapel. This hermitage dedicated to San Pedro was built in the 17th century and has a simple rectangular floor plan built in stone, with lintels and a bell tower. Inside there is a baroque style altarpiece. It is surrounded by a spectacular oak grove, which forms its wooded atrium where the feast of St. Peter is celebrated on June 29th.

Fountain of Santa Irene
Called by many the Fountain of Eternal Youth where pilgrims come to enjoy the water, this fountain is located right next to the aforementioned chapel. The story goes that the waters of the Fountain of Saint Irene had the power to cure the plagues and the ills of the pilgrims, which is why it became a historical place.
Not far away from O Pedrouzo / Arca

Ten minutes from O Pedrouzo and close to a campsite is our welcome accommodation Alojamientos Rurales O Acrivo Right on the Camino path about 1km from O Pedrouzo. A recent review :- “Well appointed, clean, comfortable little motel type rooms. Laundry facilities were very much appreciated & pool was open, which was fab for tired legs. Restaurant was handy for evening meal & breakfast.”
O Pedrouzo is a locality of 540 inhabitants. It is erroneously cited on many occasions as Arca. However, O Pedrouzo is a locality of the parish of Arca and capital of the Concello of O Pino.
Let’s hope we get the weather for it!
The bar
The restaurant terrace

This location should prove to be more peaceful than O Pedrouzo, and we have one more day’s sojourn to go.

PALAS de REI to MELIDE. 15 KM

13 May
Pilgrim Monument
Fairly flat terrain – well made paths. The N-547 will be near at times and we shall have it for occasional company and crossings as far as Arzua
Leaving Palas de Rei
Much woodlands from Oak to Eucalyptus to traverse today. The first settlement of any consequence is San Xulian do Camino

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=SwUG5BcsRmk&si=dMbzyP-cXIp2AOWM WITCHWOOD by The Strawbs.

Iglesia de San Xulian . Saint Julian is one of the favoured saints of the Camino and is the patron of hospitaliers and hoteliers. However, the legend that surrounds his calling is a dark one.

SAN XULIÁN HAS A SHOCKING STORY TO TELL

According to legend*, when Xulián was a young man, it was prophesied that he would one day kill his own parents. To keep the prophecy from coming true, Xulián left town in an effort to stay away from his parents and keep them safe from his own hand. He eventually built a new life for himself away from his parents (likely in Portugal) and married a young woman. 

Soon after Xulián’s marriage, his parents set out to locate their lost son’s new home and found his wife there alone. She, unaware of the prophecy, was thrilled to finally meet her mother and father-in-law, welcoming them into the home and even offering hers and Xulián’s bed to the weary travelers while she attended church. 

Unfortunately, Xulián soon returned home before his wife and unexpectedly found two people in his bed. Assuming that it was his wife and a secret lover, he murdered both of his sleeping parents in a blind rage. 

Immediately realizing his mistake and that the prophecy had come true, Xulián and his wife began a pilgrimage to Rome to seek forgiveness for his sins from the pope. As his penance,  Xulián was ordered to devote his life to caring for pilgrims. He did so, and he and his wife were both canonized as saints after their deaths. This story is entirely according to legend and is not officially verified by the Catholic church, but it makes for a good tale, anyway.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=Ea_GmMMVbUk&si=5uo-S2RCA-uEG043 “ Woman in the Wall” – The Beautiful South

Reaching Casanova and it’s solitary Albergue we walk 2.8 km further on to O Coto – a good choice of cafes here –
It is here that we cross from the region of Lugo to A Coruna and a village noted in the Codex Calixtinus – Leboreiro – as a good pilgrim stop in the 11-13 th centuries. However, its significance had dimmed over the centuries, but remains a pleasant, peaceful spot.
The church of Santa Maria –
Rebuilt in the 18th century this church has an interesting legend attributed to its founding. It was said that a nearby fountain was emanting a “heavenly odor” and at night a “shining light”. Villagers, seeing this as a sign from above, proceeded to dig at the source of this divine intervention and found an image of the Virgin Mary there. They immediately placed it on the altar of the church. The one catch was that the image would not stay where it was placed and somehow returned to the fountain. This pattern repeated itself over several days until the villagers carved the tympanum we see here today and dedicated the church to the Virgin Mary. Satisfied, the image of the Virgin remained on the altar and has been in the church ever since. To add to the legend, it was believed by villagers in the 1960’s that the she returned to the fountain every night to comb her hair.
And another style of granary used for storing harvested foods. On leaving we cross a single arch bridge over the River Seco
Fancy a paddle? Possibly a calmer setting than Bruce Springsteen’s “ The River”

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=y7BUXRsTbvI&si=kbbpFG2rQI-8rE0z

Onwards to Furelos and a more memorable bridge .

Village with an ancient origin, it was recorded in 12th century documents and it maintains part of its medieval structure. Its medieval bridge is one of the jewels of civil architecture in all Ways of St. James. Without a doubt, whatsoever, it is the most beautiful bridge in the whole Galician route of the French Way. It is mentioned in the monastic cartularies of Sobrado (12th century) and it was partially remodelled in the 18th century

San Xoán de Furelos Church, just next to the French Way, preserves part of its Medieval Romanesque architecture, and more specifically, its southern wall. Inside, on the right side, we can find the impressive Neogothic altarpiece of the Santo Cristo, which was created by the sculptor born in Furelos, Manuel Cagide.
The Ethnographical Museum of Melide was recently opened, just next to the church and the bridge.
Iglesia de San Xoan – during the peak of the pilgrimage in 11-12 th centuries, Furelos and other villages with pilgrim hospitals and churches were protected by The Order of Hospitaliers of San Juan

South of Furelos from the Camino,archaeologists have unearthed much older guardians of the land and people,such as 2000 year old burial grounds called mamoas.

Mamoas – this area is littered with Castries,dolmens and mamoas – many are yet to excavated – the Museo Terra de Melide is a good place for further information.

And finally, Melide.

The northwest region of Spain has been inhabited since the Neolithic period.  Melide itself began to grow and become important after the discovery of the tomb of Saint James.  

From the 10th Century, Melide grew as the popularity of the Camino de Santiago did. With the increasing number of pilgrims on both the Primitivo and French routes, traders and innkeepers began to set up along these routes.  

In the early 14th Century, the Archbishop of Santiago, Berenguel de Landoira stayed in Melide on his way to Santiago to take up his Bishopric.  To thank the village for their hospitality, he granted them permission to build a fortress and charge taxes.  

In the 15th Century, Melide played a central role in the Irmandiña Revolts against the power of the local barons.  It was during these revolts that the walls of the town and the fortress were destroyed.  The stone however was later used in the construction of the Convent of Sancti Spiritus.

In the 19th Century, Melide played its role in the fight against Napoleon’s troops during the War of Independence.  Despite being outnumbered by the French the troops managed to push the French into a retreat.  Less than half of the fighters had firearms, but they were assisted by villagers wielding rudimentary tools and sharpened sticks.

Despite many people leaving the town since the 1950’s Melide is still going strong.  Today, tourism from the Camino plays a major role in the economy of the town, alongside more traditional agricultural activities.

Melide, located in the region of Galicia in northwest Spain, is the only town where two Camino routes meet.  The Camino Primitivo(Original Way) stops in Melide and the Camino Frances (French Way) passes through.

This town is well equipped and accustomed to helping pilgrims. After all, the Primitivo is the oldest route and the French is the busiest!  I have stayed in Melide at least twice . Once 20 years ago on my first Camino and relatively recently , coming in on the Camino Primitivo.


Despite being inland, Melide’s best dish and one you must try when here is ‘Pulpo á Feira’, boiled octopus.  To enjoy this dish like a local it should be accompanied with bread, cachelos (boiled potatoes) and red wine.

https://poserontour.com/melide/ A chatty style guide to Melide

The wine is served in bowls here ( but not for breakfast!”
Our accommodation in Melide – Pension San Anton. A recent review:” I walked the Camino from Sarria (very slowly!) and the PENSION SAN ANTON was one of 10 places I stayed in total, and was most definitely the best value for money. I had a fantastic ensuite room (on the top floor with great views). It was spacious, spotlessly clean, full of light and really comfortable. I’d booked room via website and it’s a bit confusing if you’re staying in Pension or Albergue – as I believe they are the same company and they are right next to each other on Rua S.Antonio. My bag had been dropped off at the Albergue, so I rolled it up the road and fortunately the lift in the Pension took me to directly outside my room. I could rest my weary legs lying on a sun bed by the pool (what a luxury!) and better still, there was a cafe/bar alongside to enjoy a chilled Estrella whilst I did so. It was also the cheapest of all the places I stayed, which made it amazing value.”

PORTOMARIN TO PALAS de REI 17 KM EXPECT THE FIRST EUCALYPTUS TREES AND POSSIBLY SOME FOG ON LEAVING.

3 May

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=ag8XcMG1EX4&si=sN9VvR0mVndG9eYy

EVERY WHERE YOU GO ALWAYS TAKE THE WEATHER WITH YOU

The eucalyptus tree came to Europe and to Galicia in the 19th century when a Galician monk brought some seeds from the faraway land of Australia where he had been a missionary. The species adapted so well to the local climate that it spread rapidly throughout the territory. Since then the Eucalyptus forests have become a subject of controversy- See link below.

https://livesandtimesblog.com/2018/03/19/galicia-against-the-eucalyptus-remedying-an-australian-curse/

A short walk to the bridge over a small tributary of the Belesar dam. We head west through ancient forests and make a slight climb – easy – so we shall be back on higher pasture land interspersed with Pine forests . We shall pass through a number of small hamlets most of which will house a bar or cafe.

Plenty of shade if needed.

After 7 km or so we reach Gonzar and a welcoming sign.

Second breakfast anyone ?
Town square.

Very soon we reach Castromayor with its ancient Castro – a 200 metre detour but very worthwhile apparently.


The 
Castros are homes built by the ancient Celts from the years 600 BC until the 1st century with the arrival of the Roman Empire in Galicia. They are characterized by their circular plan and later their square or rectangular plan, due to the Roman influence. In many of the forts of Galicia that are still preserved thanks to archaeological rehabilitations, visitors can imagine what life and culture were like in the past.
The Castromaior fort. In this castro, developed in the Iron Age, it was inhabited between the fourth centuries BC and I AD until three different populations, until its abandonment with the first Roman approaches. Of him they emphasize his big dimensions, since it counts on an area of approximately 5 hectares, and his good state of conservation. Between 2006 and 2010 it was the center of archaeological works in order to discover its entire structure, thereby achieving that in 2010 it obtained the title of Cultural Interest. Thanks to this title and being located a few meters from the route that connects the French Way with Santiago de Compostela, it has become one of the most popular locations on the Camino de Santiago. Lovely song to follow by Joni Mitchell.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=Pbn6a0AFfnM&si=umeh4X0AKGafIVDe

Restored in 2004 – Igrexa de Castromaior – 12 th century Romanesque church
Home made dishes a specialty here, including yogurt and smoothies. Enjoy “ Homegrown “ by Neil Young

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=LCDznEwoY8E&si=_1DiLWgk51TLNjUT

The next place of interest. VENTAS de Naron

History: VENTAS de NARON

The year 820 was an important one for Ventas de Naron, and for Christian Spain. For Ventas, it was the site of a battle between the Muslim and Christian forces. The Muslim forces aimed to expand their territory to the north and the Christians, led by the Asturian King Alfonso II the chaste, sent them back. For Christian Spain, it was also the year that the bones of our favorite Apostle were rediscovered. Not long after the very same Alfonso would become the first pilgrim (the primitivo), would verify the relics, would build a church to house them, and would set in motion a course of events that would see the remaining Muslim forces defeated.

Capella a Magdelena, built from the remains of an older hospital overseen by the knights Templar in the 13 th century. Some of the stones retain engraved images of the Templar cross.

We climb the Sierra Ligonde to the highest point of the day (720m), before dropping down into the ancient hamlet of Lameiros.

Ligonde was a place full of historical significance during the medieval period and is actually two hamlets. The first is known as Ligonde Ligonde and is at the top of the hill. The first of the sites here that we saw was the ancient cementerio de peregrinos (pilgrim cemetery). It is located on an old farm named Leira da rúa and its presence would seem to indicate that somewhere near was a pilgrim hospital or hospice.


The Casa de Carnero, founded by the powerful Ulloa family and as the sign below says, the place where Carlos V, on March 24 of 1520 stayed while on his way to be crowned Emperor.  Felipe II, his son, also stayed here on May 20, 1554 while on his way to La Coruna sail to England to wed Mary Tudor.  In the 16th century this house was given the right of asylum. This meant that anyone accused of a crime or fleeing justice was instantly “freed” upon crossing into the house.


Unusually for a wayside cross, the Ligonde Cruceiro has a Pietà carved on the reverse of the top of the cross. Clad only in a loincloth, the dead body of Jesus lies across the thighs of his seated mother. And, continuing the theme of mortality. “ Losing My Religion “ by REM.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=Efa6BAWPm9o&si=NpHa7EXM2XAajf2B


In Ligonde, in addition to its famous cruzeiro, the cross where the hospital supported by the Ulloa family is supposed to have been, there is also an old pilgrim cemetery, which is located on an old farm called Leira da rúa. A plaque helps us stop and contemplate what is today a green meadow, and where hundreds of pilgrims who made the Camino once rested eternally.
Pleasant pathways towards Eirexe/ Airexe
4.8 km after Eirexe,and seemingly in the middle of nowhere,on the N-547 is Meson Brea,a roadside cafe with a tree covered terrace and pilgrim friendly to boot.
Brea is Gallego for” road”and is a very common name for a small village.

On the outskirts of Palas de Rei, we enter Rosario.

O Rosario is a small town of 25 inhabitants, located at a height from which you can see Monte Sacro, a place loaded with pilgrim legends, partly because of its proximity to Santiago. The name of the locality is because the pilgrims stopped to pray the rosary looking at the sacred summit.

One of the main legends of this magical place is collected in the Codex Calixtino. In its pages it says that in the time of Queen Lupa, a mythical character who ruled the county and that was allied with the Romans, a miracle happened.

The disciples of Santiago the Apostle came to her to ask for a cart and some oxen that allowed them to move the body of the Apostle to the graveyard. They say that Queen Lupa sent them up to the sacred peak in search of oxen. Under this request, the idea was hidden that the dragons and oxen that inhabited that mountain would kill them.

When the disciples reached the peak they were, indeed, attacked by the dragon. So, before the imminent fatal outcome, they made the sign of the cross. The gesture provoked the death of the dragon and the oxen that roamed the surroundings became calm. Such a miracle provoked the Queen’s conversion to Christianity and her vassals.

In addition to this legend, there are countless other legends in the area. The majority related to mythological beings of the Galician tradition that lived in the mysterious caves around Mount Sacro.

Money Sacro is approximately 12 km from Santiago de Compostela.

We then enter Palas de Rei.


Palas de Rei, “obligatory rest stop” according to the Codex Calixtinus
The name Palas de Rei is supposed to come from Pallatium regis (royal palace) because it was the residence of the Visigothic monarch Witiza at the beginning of the 8th century. The history of this quiet village is undoubtedly closely linked to the French Pilgrim’s Way to Santiago de Compostela. The Codex Calixtinus records that the final stage to the tomb of the apostle starts from this point, 68 kilometres of a journey that Amery Picaud defined as “moderate”.
Thus, with the medieval boom in pilgrimages, the locality underwent a significant expansion. The town of Palas de Rei has an outstanding heritage. It was one of the favourite places of residence of the Galician nobility.

A population of 3600 – it is a working farm town. The Camino winds through the town

MY HOMETOWN by Bruce Springsteen.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=KrGi8ODOWR0&si=a8LeERfgGsYSCPvA

Iglesia de San Tirso – its most historic icon.
Romanesque in origin, from the last third of the 12th century, only the façade retains its original construction; It was renovated in 1955. The temple has a Latin cross plan with a rectangular nave, and with two side chapels, in addition to the pentagonal presbytery. Next to the door, which has a semicircular arch and two archivolts on decorated capitals, there is an image of the Virgin of Socorro. The altarpiece in the main chapel is neoclassical in style.
If open, we can obtain this Sello for our pilgrim passports.
The visual high point of Palas de Rey is probably a large and partially canopied square from which much of the rest of the town radiates. There is also the typical Galician town hall made up from a mix of granite and whitewashed render. You will see similar civic building in nearly every town in the region.
Palas de Rei – Ayuntamiento – Town Hall
PENSION SANTIRSO – tonight’s residence. Review below:-

Maravillosa Pensión, y su dueña muy dulce, servicial y encantadora! Hay buena energía y actitud, uno se siente como en casa! Las habitaciones son lindas, modernas, muy cómodas y amplias. Estamos haciendo el camino De Santiago, somos un grupo de 7 personas y estamos contentos y hemos podido descansar! Recomendada para los Peregrinos!

“Wonderful Guesthouse, and its owner very sweet, helpful and charming! There is good energy and attitude, you feel at home! The rooms are nice, modern, very comfortable and spacious. We are doing the Camino De Santiago, we are a group of 7 people and we are happy and we have been able to rest! Recommended for Pilgrims!”

Possible dinner location 5 minutes away. And a final thought….or two.

“The most interesting part of the pilgrimage
The Camino de Santiago is indeed a unique and enriching experience, one of the joys of which is interacting with pilgrims from all over the world. The Pilgrimage Route attracts people from different countries, cultures and faith backgrounds, who carry their own stories, beliefs and purposes with them on this historic walking journey.
Connecting with other pilgrims on the pilgrimage is a special experience, creating deep emotional connections through sharing the joys, challenges and insights of the journey. During the long walk, pilgrims can encourage and support each other, share experiences and wisdom, and get through the highs and lows of the journey together.
Interacting with pilgrims from around the world is also an opportunity for cultural exchange and understanding. By talking with pilgrims from different countries, you can learn about their culture, traditions and lifestyles, broaden your horizons, and enhance mutual understanding and respect.
Additionally, interacting with other pilgrims can bring unexpected surprises and inspiration. Sometimes, a simple conversation, a shared laugh or a collaboration can become precious memories during the journey, allowing people to feel the connection and resonance between people.
Therefore, communicating with pilgrims from all over the world is one of the most interesting and rewarding parts of the Spanish Pilgrimage Route. May every communication become a valuable asset in your journey and make you feel the connection and warmth between humans. I wish us a fruitful exchange with many pilgrims on the pilgrimage and a smooth and enjoyable journey.”