HALFWAY OR THEREABOUTS – SARRIA TO PORTOMARIN,22.7 KM.

25 Apr

https://youtu.be/VwhZmQHHQ34?si=Rz_ Halfway to Paradise by the late Billy Fury – Couldn’t resist it! 🤣 Great song though.

It will be interesting to compare our thoughts about Sarria as we exit along the Rua Mayor,passing the Convento de la Magdalena, where the camino turns left and we descend the hill before crossing the Rio Celeiro over the Ponte Aspera, following the river,we then cross train tracks and begin the first climb of the day.

Ponte da Aspera

Ponte da Áspera collects two periods between its stones. It conserves three semicircular arches of Romanesque invoice, built in granite. The rest of the bridge is later, since it was very deteriorated, and dates from the 18th century, in the middle of the Modern Age. This late addition is built in slate.

This bridge that leads to Barbadelo, the next stop on this stage of the Camino de Santiago, is one of the seven emblematic points of the Camino chosen for a rehabilitation project. The vegetation is cleared periodically so as not to leave the image of an abandoned Sarria in the imagination of the pilgrims. A ponte da Áspera hides a lot of history to let it go unnoticed among the brambles and ferns.

Passing through an “ enchanted “ Oak forest and 3.7 km along we reach Barbadelo with its Romanesque church of Santiago de Barbadelo.

An informative link :-https://www.caminodesantiago.gal/en/recurso/4502/igrexa-parroquial-de-santiago-de-barbadelo

Barbadelo is mentioned in the Codex Calixtinus in which the author denounces the commercialisation of the pilgrimage road. (I refer you to the previous Blog). Apparently, today it is no different: from here on out, we may begin to see more panhandlers and scam artists. Not a danger, but best advised to keep walking calmly and don’t get engaged in any conversations. Casa Barbadelo offers refreshments,plus a small shop . Leaving Barbadelo, small farmsteads,sinuous roads and 6 km further along we come to Panaderia Peruscallo – sello available
Local delights include Pimientos de Padron
Unmissable – legend says every tenth one is hot – well I’ve never had a hot one in twenty years!

Next village is Morgade with another tempting cafe. We will encounter some large medieval pavements,stones of the millennia – old path . Also, dozens of Horreos, most filled with dried corn for the farm animals.

A romantic image.

Leaving Morgade, we continue through forests and pastures but also through vineyards that are part of Lugos province’s Ribeira Sacra wine region .

“ Bottle of Wine, Fruit of the Vine,When you Gonna Let Me Get Sober?” By Tom Paxton

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=RKk0Nf5n1BM&si=OWklP6F8wKWVPW5C

From now on it will not be uncommon to see donativo style tables of local foods – cheese,cakes and donuts – mostly home made. If there is no one in attendance there is usually a jar to make a donation – an honour system.

The path descends to the village of Ferreiros – its pilgrim – friendly history going back to the 12 th century – Ferreiros means blacksmith.

12th century Iglesia de Santa Maria with its baptismal font located outside! The entrance is well worth a look apparently.
100 km to go – sadly we shall encounter this kind of infantile defacement.

Moving on we reach the the tiny oasis of Mercadoiro with its albergue and an interesting general store.

Tienda Peter Pank, named after an edgy, rebellious punk- like Spanish comic book character- cowbell anyone?

Onwards through Vilacha, approaching Portomarin

There is a descent
into the valley of the River Mino and Portomarin will be in sight.
Portomarin holds the distinction of being the newest oldest town along the camino. The town you see today was transplanted from the now flooded valley below. Most of the town is newly built but the church and a few smaller buildings were relocated stone by stone.
Iglesia de San Juan – close inspection shows that the stones were numbered to avoid head scratching later. It is ascribed to the workshops of Master Matteo who carved the Portico de Gloria in Santiago.
Santiago de Compostela Cathedral

We cross a high modern bridge to enter Portomarin ( pop. 1528 )

https://www.galiciatips.com/en/destinations/portomarin/

You may be able to see the outlines of some the original village buildings below the waterline .

The bridge leads to steep stone stairs – a part of the medieval bridge transplanted higher up. It is pleasant place with its elegant stone colonnades and enticing shops and cafes.
Portomarin is our stopover .
Our hotel
“Comfortable accomodation right in the middle of the town’s major street. There are multiple eateries within a few steps away from the entrance of this inn. The owners are very responsive and always ready to answer any questions you might have via WhatsApp. Highly recommended.” RECENT REVIEW

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=ju_a2-Pve4g&si=xVG5UdLdTeN8POUw

“ Wherever I Lay My Hat, That’s My Home – Paul Young.

At what is a halfway point for me, at least, I should re-acknowledge some of my sources:

MOON – CAMINO DE SANTIAGO -Beebe Bahrami
THE CAMINO FRANCES – Wise Pilgrim Guide
Camino de Santiago – Camino Frances – John Brierley
The Road to Santiago- Michael Jacobs
Camino de Santiago – Village to Village – Dintman & Landis
Camino de Santiago- Sergi Ramis

( And the 🛜 which makes us all “thieves of ideas”…& photos )

“Journeys are lived three times: when you plan them, when you live them, and when you remember them… ”
Everything is cycles, time moves on. Too fast when you’re having a better time.
So much to wish for this trip, so much to plan it, so much organization, make lists, check the Internet, research, send messages, agree, make decisions.
And on the other hand, nerves, fear, doubt, distress, excitement, joy, anxiety.
This is all part of the journey, there are things that are resolved day by day, there are decisions that are made in the moment.
The most important thing is to enjoy everything, live intensely, every moment, every moment.

“ Finished the Camino from SJPDP earlier this month. Like others I could talk about the personal experience I had, but I would rather pay tribute to the local Spanish people who were overwhelmingly polite, welcoming and friendly. Add to that the great food, beer, wine, culture, architecture etc etc- they have so much to proud of. Thank you Spain.” On a forum 26/04/24

But Portomarín is undoubtedly famous for its good eau-de-vie, so much so that its gastronomic festival honours this concoction made using alquitaras, the oldest method of distilling eau-de-vie. You can’t leave this charming village without trying a shot. The most traditional ones are blanca, crema de orujo, coffee liqueur, and aguardiente de hierbas, called “liquid ibuprofeno” by many tavernkeepers as they assure that they cure all the aches and pains of the pilgrim. “ An Orujo …Gracias “.

“Liquid Ibuprofeno ” – Love it…but not after breakfast!

Leave a comment