Sarria in particular and Galicia in general, plus the debate about an authentic Camino .

You find the flèches in/on all sorts of places!

SARRIA

Sarria was founded by the last king of León, King Alfonso IX, who himself died here in 1230 on his pilgrimage to Santiago. It is the biggest town in Galicia on the Camino Francés (save Santiago de Compostela).

The fact that a Compostela is awarded for walking at least the last 100 kilometers makes Sarria a popular starting place, as it is just over the 100 km mark. In fact, more than one-third of all pilgrims walking the Camino Frances start their pilgrimage in Sarria (compared, for example, to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, which is the starting point for only around 8%). Hence the numerous hostels and albergues located here; Sarria holds the record for the most albergues in one town.

Pelegrinos starting the Camino in Galicia are required to get two stamps a day in their credentials in order to get a Compostela in Santiago.

According to the Pilgrim’s Reception Office in Santiago in 2023, 131 128 people, or 31% of all pilgrims walked this route.

So far so good ,but the only aspects remaining of historic Sarria are revealed along the final climb up Rua Mayor near the church of San Salvador ,the castle ruins and the raised orchard beyond. Otherwise it is a busy and bustling place.

WHAT TO SEE IN SARRIA

FORTRESS TOWER

Residence of the Merinos and the Major Justice of the Marquisate until the first third of the 18th century.

The **Sarria fortress** it is an old fortification of medieval origin of which currently only one flank tower remains, popularly known as **Battalion Tower.**

LA MAGDALENA MONASTERY

Possibly, Sarria’s most important monument, built in the 12th century. Over the years, it served as a wood store, barracks and a prison, until it is given to the Order of Mercy in the 19th century.

CHURCH OF SANTA MARIÑA

The current church has a Gothic appearance with a Latin cross plan, retaining from the previous one only a drawing of the front and a capital.

In peak seasons, May,June and September particularly there can be a possibly alarming number of pilgrims in Sarria. This can be disconcerting after the rural idylls walked through before. This is partly responsible for the debate about the 100 km entitlement to a Compostela. There are those who believe the increasing commercialisation of the Camino and the larger numbers making the way can be partly put down to the 100 km stipulation. There is an often expressed view that such numbers and motivations contaminate the spirituality of the Camino.The crowds at these peak times are very much populated with young Spaniards – there is no equivalent to the Duke of Edinburgh award in Spain – a Compostela looks good on your CV.

A proper pilgrim – excellent view from the forum below –
Camino de Santiago All Routes | I’ve been following with interest the discussion on carrying bags or not, and whether that makes someone a ‘proper’ Pilgrim | Facebook.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/544764125895308/posts/2090900824614956/

There have been suggestions to the Santiago church authorities to drop the 100 km or change it to 200 km. These suggestions have been rebutted. The Church knows a good money maker as do the Galician authorities and the Camino provides both hospitality and employment.

Then comes disparagement : These are not “ true” Pelegrinos , they are Turigrinos. I suspect it is a debate that will resound for years to come. I always think that the late John Brierley, guidebook writer and to some a Camino guru or saint even, offered this opinion and I quote it in full .

“ A reminder for “ seasoned “ pilgrims who commenced in St. Jean Pied de Port or further back in Le Puy, Geneva, Budapest? Beware of signs of irritation at the intrusion of new pilgrims on “ my” Camino – remember that many of the new arrivals may be nervous starting out and the last thing they need is aloofness built on a false sense of superiority. None of us can know the inner motivation or outer circumstances of another. A loving pilgrim welcomes all they meet along the path with an open mind and open heart ….without judgement of any kind”

https://santiagoinlove.com/en/true-pilgrim-portrait/ This is an amusing and self deprecating view.

My own memories of Sarria twenty years ago are few, as it had been a long day’s journey. From being picked up in a crowded minibus under the Aston express way en route to Heathrow. A coach journey to Sarria from Santiago airport and a hotel where I was scolded ( I thought at the time ) for helping myself to a tapa in the hotel bar ! Then leaving the hotel at 6 am in darkness with the group of about 24 or more and crossing the Ponte da Espera.

I caught a fleeting glimpse of a Kingfisher here.

I ought to add that the group leader was a young priest, Fr John Nolan who had begun his priesthood at Holy Family Small Heath where I was HT; he became a kind of school chaplain and will always be remembered for delivering sermons at school masses with the aid of a puppet, which delighted the children and drove the staff up the wall in equal measures! Later, after a period as PP at Our Lady’s, Tile Cross, he was then given the job by the archbishop, of running a diocesan youth centre at Alton Castle,Staffordshire. He contacted me with a request to raise funds for the centre to which I agreed,as did three other fellow HTs. Our group then consisted of youth workers from Alton, some of his former parishioners having a range of ages, plus four HT’s who gave up their summer half term – we were all sponsored . I thoroughly enjoyed my first Camino, stayed in a couple of traditional albergues as well as small hotels, I recall John celebrating mass in a park at one point and I read at a mass in Arzua too,in bare feet! The food and wine were especially memorable.

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GALICIA

Galicia has a fascinating history and I have taken photocopies from an early travel guide to S de C – “ THE ROAD TO SANTIAGO” by Michael Jacobs – this is more of a scholarly guide than most and his descriptions of its history and character are well worth reading .