ensuitepilgrim's Blog

https://youtu.be/VwhZmQHHQ34?si=Rz_ Halfway to Paradise by the late Billy Fury – Couldn’t resist it! 🤣 Great song though.

It will be interesting to compare our thoughts about Sarria as we exit along the Rua Mayor,passing the Convento de la Magdalena, where the camino turns left and we descend the hill before crossing the Rio Celeiro over the Ponte Aspera, following the river,we then cross train tracks and begin the first climb of the day.

Ponte da Áspera collects two periods between its stones. It conserves three semicircular arches of Romanesque invoice, built in granite. The rest of the bridge is later, since it was very deteriorated, and dates from the 18th century, in the middle of the Modern Age. This late addition is built in slate.

This bridge that leads to Barbadelo, the next stop on this stage of the Camino de Santiago, is one of the seven emblematic points of the Camino chosen for a rehabilitation project. The vegetation is cleared periodically so as not to leave the image of an abandoned Sarria in the imagination of the pilgrims. A ponte da Áspera hides a lot of history to let it go unnoticed among the brambles and ferns.

Passing through an “ enchanted “ Oak forest and 3.7 km along we reach Barbadelo with its Romanesque church of Santiago de Barbadelo.

An informative link :-https://www.caminodesantiago.gal/en/recurso/4502/igrexa-parroquial-de-santiago-de-barbadelo

Next village is Morgade with another tempting cafe. We will encounter some large medieval pavements,stones of the millennia – old path . Also, dozens of Horreos, most filled with dried corn for the farm animals.

Leaving Morgade, we continue through forests and pastures but also through vineyards that are part of Lugos province’s Ribeira Sacra wine region .

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=RKk0Nf5n1BM&si=OWklP6F8wKWVPW5C

The path descends to the village of Ferreiros – its pilgrim – friendly history going back to the 12 th century – Ferreiros means blacksmith.

Moving on we reach the the tiny oasis of Mercadoiro with its albergue and an interesting general store.

Onwards through Vilacha, approaching Portomarin

We cross a high modern bridge to enter Portomarin ( pop. 1528 )

https://www.galiciatips.com/en/destinations/portomarin/

You may be able to see the outlines of some the original village buildings below the waterline .

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=ju_a2-Pve4g&si=xVG5UdLdTeN8POUw

“ Wherever I Lay My Hat, That’s My Home – Paul Young.

At what is a halfway point for me, at least, I should re-acknowledge some of my sources:

MOON – CAMINO DE SANTIAGO -Beebe Bahrami
THE CAMINO FRANCES – Wise Pilgrim Guide
Camino de Santiago – Camino Frances – John Brierley
The Road to Santiago- Michael Jacobs
Camino de Santiago – Village to Village – Dintman & Landis
Camino de Santiago- Sergi Ramis

( And the 🛜 which makes us all “thieves of ideas”…& photos )

“Journeys are lived three times: when you plan them, when you live them, and when you remember them… ”
Everything is cycles, time moves on. Too fast when you’re having a better time.
So much to wish for this trip, so much to plan it, so much organization, make lists, check the Internet, research, send messages, agree, make decisions.
And on the other hand, nerves, fear, doubt, distress, excitement, joy, anxiety.
This is all part of the journey, there are things that are resolved day by day, there are decisions that are made in the moment.
The most important thing is to enjoy everything, live intensely, every moment, every moment.

“ Finished the Camino from SJPDP earlier this month. Like others I could talk about the personal experience I had, but I would rather pay tribute to the local Spanish people who were overwhelmingly polite, welcoming and friendly. Add to that the great food, beer, wine, culture, architecture etc etc- they have so much to proud of. Thank you Spain.” On a forum 26/04/24

But Portomarín is undoubtedly famous for its good eau-de-vie, so much so that its gastronomic festival honours this concoction made using alquitaras, the oldest method of distilling eau-de-vie. You can’t leave this charming village without trying a shot. The most traditional ones are blanca, crema de orujo, coffee liqueur, and aguardiente de hierbas, called “liquid ibuprofeno” by many tavernkeepers as they assure that they cure all the aches and pains of the pilgrim. “ An Orujo …Gracias “.

“Liquid Ibuprofeno ” – Love it…but not after breakfast!

SARRIA

Sarria was founded by the last king of León, King Alfonso IX, who himself died here in 1230 on his pilgrimage to Santiago. It is the biggest town in Galicia on the Camino Francés (save Santiago de Compostela).

The fact that a Compostela is awarded for walking at least the last 100 kilometers makes Sarria a popular starting place, as it is just over the 100 km mark. In fact, more than one-third of all pilgrims walking the Camino Frances start their pilgrimage in Sarria (compared, for example, to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, which is the starting point for only around 8%). Hence the numerous hostels and albergues located here; Sarria holds the record for the most albergues in one town.

Pelegrinos starting the Camino in Galicia are required to get two stamps a day in their credentials in order to get a Compostela in Santiago.

According to the Pilgrim’s Reception Office in Santiago in 2023, 131 128 people, or 31% of all pilgrims walked this route.

WHAT TO SEE IN SARRIA

FORTRESS TOWER

Residence of the Merinos and the Major Justice of the Marquisate until the first third of the 18th century.

LA MAGDALENA MONASTERY

Possibly, Sarria’s most important monument, built in the 12th century. Over the years, it served as a wood store, barracks and a prison, until it is given to the Order of Mercy in the 19th century.

CHURCH OF SANTA MARIÑA

The current church has a Gothic appearance with a Latin cross plan, retaining from the previous one only a drawing of the front and a capital.

In peak seasons, May,June and September particularly there can be a possibly alarming number of pilgrims in Sarria. This can be disconcerting after the rural idylls walked through before. This is partly responsible for the debate about the 100 km entitlement to a Compostela. There are those who believe the increasing commercialisation of the Camino and the larger numbers making the way can be partly put down to the 100 km stipulation. There is an often expressed view that such numbers and motivations contaminate the spirituality of the Camino.The crowds at these peak times are very much populated with young Spaniards – there is no equivalent to the Duke of Edinburgh award in Spain – a Compostela looks good on your CV.

A proper pilgrim – excellent view from the forum below –
Camino de Santiago All Routes | I’ve been following with interest the discussion on carrying bags or not, and whether that makes someone a ‘proper’ Pilgrim | Facebook.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/544764125895308/posts/2090900824614956/

“ A reminder for “ seasoned “ pilgrims who commenced in St. Jean Pied de Port or further back in Le Puy, Geneva, Budapest? Beware of signs of irritation at the intrusion of new pilgrims on “ my” Camino – remember that many of the new arrivals may be nervous starting out and the last thing they need is aloofness built on a false sense of superiority. None of us can know the inner motivation or outer circumstances of another. A loving pilgrim welcomes all they meet along the path with an open mind and open heart ….without judgement of any kind”

https://santiagoinlove.com/en/true-pilgrim-portrait/ This is an amusing and self deprecating view.

My own memories of Sarria twenty years ago are few, as it had been a long day’s journey. From being picked up in a crowded minibus under the Aston express way en route to Heathrow. A coach journey to Sarria from Santiago airport and a hotel where I was scolded ( I thought at the time ) for helping myself to a tapa in the hotel bar ! Then leaving the hotel at 6 am in darkness with the group of about 24 or more and crossing the Ponte da Espera.

I ought to add that the group leader was a young priest, Fr John Nolan who had begun his priesthood at Holy Family Small Heath where I was HT; he became a kind of school chaplain and will always be remembered for delivering sermons at school masses with the aid of a puppet, which delighted the children and drove the staff up the wall in equal measures! Later, after a period as PP at Our Lady’s, Tile Cross, he was then given the job by the archbishop, of running a diocesan youth centre at Alton Castle,Staffordshire. He contacted me with a request to raise funds for the centre to which I agreed,as did three other fellow HTs. Our group then consisted of youth workers from Alton, some of his former parishioners having a range of ages, plus four HT’s who gave up their summer half term – we were all sponsored . I thoroughly enjoyed my first Camino, stayed in a couple of traditional albergues as well as small hotels, I recall John celebrating mass in a park at one point and I read at a mass in Arzua too,in bare feet! The food and wine were especially memorable.

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GALICIA

Galicia has a fascinating history and I have taken photocopies from an early travel guide to S de C – “ THE ROAD TO SANTIAGO” by Michael Jacobs – this is more of a scholarly guide than most and his descriptions of its history and character are well worth reading .

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JUST TAP ON EACH PAGE TO ENLARGEN IT

Delicious food and wine,too.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=21bm9uJYuRo&si=8dkB1Pncqs6Y6ZGB “ Walk of Life”’ Dire Straits.

Aimery Picaud evoking the landscape which we will enjoy walking westwards, conjured up images of a promised land. For him,Galicia was a place….” abundant in woods,delightful for its rivers, meadows and exceptionally rich orchards, its wonderful fruit and clearest of streams…it abounds in rye bread and cider, cattle and horses and all sorts of seafood; it is rich in silver and gold, textiles and furs,and, above all in Saracen treasures”.

A very French and possibly over idealised picture, but Picaud regarded the Galician culture as comparable to his own..” closest to our French race in their customs”

https://www.pilgrim.es/en/plan-your-way/codex-calixtinus/ This is the first and most esteemed guide to the Camino – Picaud is regarded as one of its authors and in the Codex,Triacastela marked the end of stage 11 and signaled the end of the Galician mountains ( though there are still a few smaller ups and downs before reaching S de C ).

https://www.hillwalktours.com/walking-hiking-blog/typically-galician-history-of-the-galicia-region/

Leaving Triacastela there are two routes, a longer one via the Samos monastery, the San Xil route we take to the right – the pathways on this section have been much improved, whereas the Samos route does follow the main road in stretches.

An interesting diversion hereabouts is the art gallery of English painter Arthur Lowe ( not Dad’s Army ! )

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=hTdikCon128&si=aQa5hBlLxbYgHM9_”Art for Art’s Sake” 10cc

Arthur had walked the Camino several years ago and fell in love with what was then a dilapidated building right on the path about 130km (112 miles) from Santiago de Compostela.  He decided to buy it and set about renovating it and now, 10 years on, it’s both his home and an art gallery.  The garden is still work in progress but the flowers he has planted, which includes 20 to 30 lavender plants, are already attracting numerous butterflies.

Any pilgrims passing by (who will need to turn right to San Xil at the split in the route in Triacastela) are welcome to enter and marvel at the work he’s done as well as his obvious artistic talent.  They may even be lucky enough to get their Camino ‘credentials’, or log book, ‘stamped’ with an Arthur Manton-Lowe original.

After passing through A Balsa, we encounter a small Ermita and over a small bridge, reaching a large pool of water with a huge seashell

Then follows a climb up to Alto de Riocabo 910 M, walking along a new high level woodland path above Montan and down through Fontearcuda and then into Furela.

Just over 1.7 km we reach Pintin and further refreshment if needed.

After two more km we enter AGUIADA, the route that detoured from Triacastela to Samos rejoins the main Camino here. With a population of 40, there is little here but the tiny chapel.

Soon we are passing through San Pedro do Camino and Carballal, still deep in rural country even as Sarria looms 3.8 Km away. Then walking through pine forest we shall become aware of houses and settlements as we near the outskirts of Sarria and the quantity of places to stay and eat increases exponentially compared to our earlier day’s walk. The path then continues through Vigo de Sarria

Before crossing the River Sarria we reach our accommodation for the night in Vigo de Sarria .

EL RINCONCITO de dpCristal

There is a pleasant tree- lined,riverside promenade after crossing the Rio Sarria.

Memories – almost exactly 20 years ago, I began my first Camino from Sarria – in a large group of 24+ – we were walking to raise funds for the Birmingham Archdiocese Youth hostel, Alton Castle and so we were all sponsored in different ways . I knew relatively little about the Camino, as it was not known about anything like the extent it is today. But I can still recall my feelings of anticipation and curiosity as we left Sarria at 6 am, in the dark, literally ! And now, twenty years on and a few more Caminos walked, I still get just as enthralled.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=bzHEiK26mgQ&si=nexRjq-kKTAN3Wkv “ Cherished Memories”, by the late Eddie Cochran

SARRIA is a unique place for a variety of reasons and deserves a short Blog to itself – next time then.