ensuitepilgrim's Blog

Fortunately, a fellow tourist assured us we were heading in the right direction. She was an interesting companion as we walked the 1.25 miles down to the city. She was a football fan, 51 years of age and still playing 7-a- side and had been to watch Spain play Holland( womens’ teams ) in Seville earlier in the week. She was from Breda, same town as Liverpool and Holland’s formidable captain,Virgil Van Dijk. That was the third conversation of interest we enjoyed on this short journey from Portimao. First, on the platform at Portimao, with a lady who recognised my scallop shell on the rucksack and we shared Camino experiences. She was Belgian with excellent English, fluent in the vernacular,too. “knackered “ was used quite precisely at least twice! A other Pelegrina chatted to us on the train, briefly and she,too, was an enthusiastic reminiscer.

Silves is a historic town that was originally the ancient capital of the Algarve.
During the Moorish era (9-12th century), Silves was a major stronghold and important trading centre. From the solid red-brick castle, the Moors defended the entire region, while from the harbour, boats sailed down the Arade River to trade with North Africa.

Today, Silves is peaceful and unhurried, but remnants of this illustrious past can be seen scattered throughout the town. This includes the imposing Castelo de Silves, heavily fortified gateways and the Gothic Se cathedral.

We soon came to the Cathedral

Silves was named the bishopric seat soon after the first conquest of the city from the Arabs in 1189, but the Cathedral was only built after 1268, after the city’s definitive conquest during the reign of King Afonso III. It retained the title of cathedral until the 16th century, when the diocese’s headquarters were transferred to Faro as the city was blossoming due to the silting of the Arade River and the growing importance of the Algarve coast. During this period, 26 bishops occupied the Episcopal seat. From the offset the church was dedicated to Saint Mary and, later, to Our Lady of the Conception, represented in the chancel with a Gothic image.

Like most of the buildings in Silves, the cathedral is built in red sandstone, ‘Grés de Silves’, which characterises the city with its tonality and predominance.

SILVES doesn’t have the flashy cliffs, caves, or even a beach at all, but it does have loads of charm and history.

After a shop at Lidl, it was back to the apartment to unload and then a walk down to Praia de Rocha. We were hoping that a nearby, highly recommended locals’ restaurant would be open – to reserve a table for Saturday evening – A NAVE. It was open and a very friendly lady assured us of a table.

Reaching the end of the main drag in Praia de Rocha you come to a Miradour with steps leading down to the beach.

Plenty of tempting places to eat and drink

Another revisit on the Algarve, but not as far back as 1976, we spent some time in Lagos two years ago and wanted to explore some more of its history and its walkway over the dunes.

Despite its age,the train picked up some speed as we passed salt pans, allotments and large fields of asparagus.

We were soon crossing the waterway to Lagos Marina , reminding us of the importance of its maritime traditions.

Famously irresistible and frequently found in the UK now. Lidl make some good ones.

The Lagos town walls date back as far as the Roman period. They were rebuilt by the Arabs and considerably enlarged during the 16th century between the reigns of D. Manuel and Filipe I, because of the need to protect the growing city centre.
These walls have nine towers that were built for artillery and there are seven gates.
In the late 16th century, one section of the wall was turned into a residence for the Governors of the Algarve.

We walked up hill to a great viewpoint.

For a complete change of scene it was time to walk back to the station, as the access to the walkways over the dunes was just a few metres from there and we had to time it so that we got back in time for the return train to Portimao

A great day out in the sun 🌞 and 11 miles of walking. If you want or need an antidote to Praia de Rocha this town has it all.

The Camino leaves the town over the River Cua and past the church and the albergue. It continues alongside the N 120 on a gravel path, passing a simple wooden cross and soon enter the hamlet of 36 persons,Pieros which contains the remains of the ancient castro Ventosa.

And a church, Iglesia de San Martin de Tours,with a triangular facade, built in 1086.

The Camino forges a footpath through the vineyards and rolling hills for the next 6.3 Km , passing through Valtuille de Arriba.

If you ignore the large metal posts and electric wires running overhead you can still appreciate a beautiful landscape.

This section of the route to Villafranca is called el camino de la Virgen and is a deeply spiritual landscape for locals – Mary is seen as a protector of the land,fruit and wine. The locals still hold a deep respect for pilgrims despite the ever increasing numbers passing their doors.

After climbing the last hill and dale we pass an iconic sight, the Iglesia de Santiago and its Puerta de Perdon ( door of pardon ).

Huddled between two fast-flowing rivers and the verdant hills of the Galician mountains, Villafranca de Bierzo is one of the most beautiful towns in Northern Spain.A particular feature are the glass enclosed balconies stone and stucco homes.

It is the last important town in Leon that is crossed by the Pilgrim’s Road to Santiago de Compostela. Its rich monumental heritage, and the influence of the St. James pilgrims, have made it an important tourist centre. Its old town has been declared Property of Cultural Interest.

https://internationalliving.com/countries/spain/villafranca-spain/

Leaving Villafranca, we follow the arrows and scallop shells over the Burbia river on a more strenuous stretch than of late as we walk up above the Valcarce valley to be rewarded with fine views.

Just before entering Trabadelo, the Camino passes through ancient Chestnut trees. For centuries locals have gathered the chestnuts which have been called “ the bread of the poor” because they single-handedly saved whole communities from starvation in bad winters.

Leaving Trabadelo the camino is as well marked as ever and in just under 4 km we should reach Hotel Valcarce, our accommodation for this evening.